depending on the purpose of the vessel model, the hull of the model can be solid - monolithic, made of wood, bone, plastic, or hollow; in this case, tin, brass, plywood, cardboard, and paper are added to the materials listed earlier.

In the manufacture of ship model hulls, a wide variety of designs and technological methods are used. These methods are not similar to one another, but they all pursue one goal - to obtain a hull that exactly corresponds to the theoretical drawing of the ship model. Therefore, no matter what method the ship modeler uses, Whatever material he uses, first of all he needs to have a theoretical drawing and, using the outlines of the frames or waterline, make templates.

MONOLITHIC STRUCTURES

Cases made from solid material - be it wood, bone, plastic or some other material - are most often used for desktop, display, and historical models.

The construction of the model body begins with processing the boards and gluing them together if the body is wooden. Sometimes a piece of plastic, mass or bone of the appropriate size is looked for for the body. The sequence of manufacturing a monolithic body is shown in Figure 94. Having processed the parallelepiped-shaped timber with an allowance against the largest overall dimensions of the model body, it is necessary to make markings. When starting marking, the modeler must have in front of him an accurate theoretical drawing of the model. First you need to draw a diametric line with a thicknesser or a sharp awl on the deck, in the bow, along the bottom and in the stern. Risks must be deep and precise. Then frame lines are drawn along the deck and side, the deck is outlined, the stem, stern and side line are drawn. Marking timber is a very important moment in the work of a ship modeler, and here you need to remember a good Russian proverb: “measure seven times, and cut once.” A small mistake can lead to damage to the workpiece, and all previously completed work will be in vain.

The next step in the manufacture of the body is filing the timber. First of all, the bow and stern are cut off, then they are filed along the contour of the waterline and part of the deck is removed if the hull is made with a forecastle.

When the hull is roughly processed, they begin to shape it in accordance with the outlines of the frames. Frame templates should be cut out either from plywood or thick cardboard. Rough processing of the timber can first be done with an axe, then you should use chisels, a finishing plane, a file, and sandpaper. When processing the hull, control your work using frame templates.

HOLLOW STRUCTURES

Experience shows that ship modellers rarely resort to manufacturing solid, monolithic hulls. Even when installing a rubber engine on a model, it is necessary to have free space in the housing for the placement of hooks, a rubber band, and a propeller shaft. That's why modellers build mostly hollow hulls. There are many ways to build buildings; the book describes only the most common ones.

^ Papier-mâché body

Correctly, correctly building the hull of a ship model is not very easy. Therefore, the leaders of the circles can initially recommend that novice modelers build buildings from papier-mâché. First of all, you need to make a blank. It can be made of wood as described above.

You can use another method (Fig. 95). According to a theoretical drawing or type of construction, you need to cut out a diametrical plane and frames from 3-5-1mm plywood; cut grooves in the frames and center plane. Having assembled this simple structure, it is necessary to fill the space between the frames with some plastic material. Paraffin is suitable for this purpose. Having made a drawer exactly to the size of the assembled plywood frame or cardboard box, lower the frame into it and fill it with molten paraffin. If paraffin cannot be obtained, use plasticine, clay, or alabaster. When the material has hardened, treat the outer surface of the blank. This is not difficult to do, since the frames, which must be cut very accurately, will control the correct shape of the hull. After the body blank is ready, proceed to pasting it with paper. It is best to cover the body with unglued newsprint paper. Paper should not be cut with scissors, it is better to tear it with your hands, in this

In this case, the edge does not have a sharp edge and when gluing, the layers adhere well. The prepared paper is poured in for a few minutes. warm water. The blank of the model body is smeared with Vaseline, oil or some other fat and begin to be pasted over with strips of paper. To glue paper, use paste made from potato flour or dextrin glue. The first two layers of paper are laid out without glue, the subsequent ones - with glue. Pieces of paper must be placed very tightly on top of each other, without gaps, so that the edges of adjacent layers are covered with a new piece of paper. The overlapping layers of paper should form a smooth surface without bulges or depressions. For small cases, 10 layers of paper are enough, this is approximately 1.5-3 mm; for large buildings, the thickness of the cladding should be increased to 4 mm.

Having covered the body blank with 3-4 layers, you need to let the paper dry for 10-12 hours, then put another 3-4 layers and dry again.

The body of a papier-mâché model can also be made in another way: a blank is made from wood and a box made of 5 mm plywood according to the overall dimensions, with a small allowance (Fig. 96). Diluted plaster or alabaster is poured into the box. Then, generously lubricating the blank with Vaseline or

Rice. 96. Papier-mâché body (2nd option):

/ - lowering the blank into liquid gypsum or paraffin: 2 - plaster mold; 3 - laying sheets of paper; 4 - finished body in cross-section; 5-plywood frame frame in a papier-mâché body.

Then, they lower it into plaster and let the plaster harden. When the blank is removed from the plaster, a mold is formed. Now all that remains is to lay out the mold with several layers of paper as indicated above. With this method of manufacturing the body, the outer surface adjacent directly to the plaster mold is very smooth.

Dugout hull

The blank for the dugout hull of a ship model is made in the same way as when making a papier-mâché hull. The finished blank is placed on a workbench and they begin to hollow it out

Rice. 97. Making a dugout hull of a ship model (1st option):

/ - drilling with a brace; 2 - chisel chisel; h - marking for drilling along theoretical frames; 4 - section along the frame.

(Fig. 97). To make the work easier and faster, it is recommended to use a hammer with a hammer and make a series of holes. Using a theoretical drawing, you can limit yourself to drilling only along the frames. You should select wood from inside the body using a chisel and a semicircular chisel.

There is another way to make a dugout hull of a ship model (Fig. 98). The timber from which the body will be made must consist of two halves, glued along the diametrical plane; a sheet of paper must be placed between the halves. Marking and initial filings]<у корпуса производят обычным способом. Затем нужно разъединить половинки и сделать пропилы ножовкой с внутренней стороны. Лишний материал выбирается с помощью стамески - сначала плоской, а потом полукруглой. Когда половинки корпуса обработаны, их склеивают. Через один шпангоут в корпус нужно врезать бимсы, на них будет крепиться палуба.

The manufacture of hollow foam hulls is not difficult, but quite labor-intensive; the hulls turn out to be rather heavy, but the precision of manufacturing is supposed to be<ет быть очень высокой. Дерево хорошо поддается обработке и отделке.

Puff shells

Young shipbuilders can also be offered this option for making a model hull (Fig. 99). Taking several boards, pre-

Rsh. 99. Making a layered hull of a ship model:

/ - cutting out the contour of the waterline and the inside; 2 - sawn waterline; 3 - (;; peeling of waterlines; 4, 5, 6 - cross-section of the glued blank; T - finished blank.

Rice. 100. Scheme for manufacturing a composite hull of a ship model (1st and 2nd options):

/ - making the bottom from a board; 2 - fastening of plywood frames and fenders; 3 - section of the composite body; sheathing with thin plywood; 5-installation of bow and stern ends, frame and stringers; 6 ~~ covering the body with thin plywood.

They are carefully planed and prepared for gluing. Then from the theoretical drawing 3 to 5 waterlines are transferred to the boards, depending on the thickness of the boards. It is also planned how much wood needs to be removed from the inside. After this, using a circular hacksaw, the inner contour is first cut out, and then the outer contour along the waterline, always with an allowance of 2-3 mm. When all the boards are cut, they are glued together and compressed with clamps. It is necessary to let the horopio boards dry and only then begin processing the wood. Processing is carried out with ordinary carpentry tools: chisels, planes, rasp, files, scrapers.

Composite housings

The base - the lower part of the hull - is made from a board in exact accordance with the theoretical drawing, then frames are cut out of plywood, fenders are installed and thin aircraft plywood 0.5-1.0 mm thick is “sewn” to them - nailed with glue. The ends - bow and stern - are made from solid pieces of wood.

This method of building hulls (Fig. 100) has become quite widespread among ship modellers, especially when building models with angular contours of frames - high-speed, planing boats and similar types of ships. For full models with a significant cylindrical insert, this method can also be recommended.

Stacked housings

The most common and rational method of manufacturing hulls for ship models should be considered the typesetting method, widely used by ship modellers. Methods for constructing composite hulls are shown in Figures 101, 102. The technology for constructing a hull using this method is to some extent similar to existing methods for constructing real ships. The work begins with cutting out the frames and making the bow and stern ends. Then the set is installed on a marked block - a kind of slipway, the place where the hull of the ship model will be assembled. Having installed the ends and frames, you need to connect them with a keel beam - keelson - and side beams - deck stringers. Then they begin to nail down pre-prepared slats with a thickness of 3-4 mm. Place pieces of cardboard or plywood under the nail heads. This is necessary so that when pulling out the nails you do not damage the body of the model. All parts are assembled using glue. When the glue dries thoroughly and sticks the slats to the frames, the nails are pulled out with pliers. When constructing composite hulls, instead of slats, thin aircraft plywood or veneer can be used as cladding. In this case, it is recommended, in addition to the fender, to install one or two side stringers.

For cladding, you can also use thin cardboard or thick drawing paper. For some hulls of high-speed planing boats, it is possible to cover the hull with fabric using waterproof glue of the AK-20 type.

A description of methods for constructing hulls for ship models would be incomplete if we did not talk about the manufacture of metal hulls.

Metal cases

Making tin hulls is similar to building real ships; If we keep in mind that the thickness of the plating on small modern ships is 6-8-10 mm, then on a model reduced by 100 times compared to a real ship, the thickness of the plating should be 0.06-0.1 mm. Such tin is difficult to find, so you have to limit yourself to the available tin from cans; it is quite suitable for making a metal case. Work should begin by making a wooden model body blank according to a theoretical drawing. It is recommended to take hardwood - oak, maple, ash, beech, or, in extreme cases, birch. On the blank you need to mark the theoretical frames and cut grooves into which the frames will then be inserted. Preparation of frames is very simple. On the sheet metal, a mark is drawn with a scriber at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the sheet, then after another 5 mm another mark, and after 10 mm a new one; According to this risk, the sheet metal is folded and the resulting strip is cut off. Then, holding the frame in a vice along the marked mark, you need to straighten the bent edges of the frame-flange with a hammer as shown in Figure 103. The frame blank is placed in the slot on the blank, and with the help of a mallet the blank is given the shape of the frame. The frame is secured with a bracket made of a nail. To ensure that the frame does not protrude on the blank, it is recommended to make a cutout on it to the thickness of the sheet metal; this will ensure smooth contours of the body. Having strengthened the frames in this way, you need to prepare paper sheathing patterns and use them to cut out parts of the tin sheathing. The length of each sheet of tin for sheathing should be such that on the bottom the sheets of the starboard side overlap the sheets of the left side by 1-2 mm, and the height of the sheets should reach the edge of the deck. The sheathing sheet needs to be chopped into a blank, giving it the shape of the model body in this area, and secured with thin wallpaper nails. After securing all the sheathing sheets, you can begin soldering the sheets, having first removed the nails that secure the sheathing sheet to the frames. If the junction of two sections is not very precise, it does not matter: add a little tin and fill the gap between two adjacent sheets. And if one section overlaps another, trim the one that is not yet soldered. It is not recommended to solder the bow and stern ends, since in this case it becomes difficult to remove the body from the blank. To strengthen the nasal tip, it is advisable to solder the stem - a metal plate 1-1.5 mm thick. Inside the body, when it is removed from the blank, you need to solder several beams - cross braces of the same profile as the frames. Deck sheets

floorings should be joined on beams. At the ends, deck sheets must have curved edges that extend onto the sides from the outside.

A model ship's hull, made of tin, can be very precise in shape, and comes closer to the hulls of real ships than any other.

Model ship hull testing

When the model body is ready, it should be tested for water resistance, draft, and stability. For this purpose, a so-called experimental pool is being built. It is best to build a pool from roofing iron (Fig. 104). A box made from it measuring 3,000x700x

Rice. 104. Pool made of roofing iron for testing models.

Rice. 105. Pool made of plywood for competitions of small boat models.

X 500 mm is enclosed in a machine knitted from boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The legs must have a cross-section of at least 60X60 mm. The height of the pool is approximately 750 mm. Waterproofness is ensured by puttying all joints and carefully painting the pool inside and out. To drain water, a piece of water pipe with a tap is provided. A rubber hose is attached to the pipe. The pool is filled from the water supply. Don't forget to put a mesh at the outlet to prevent clogging of the drain pipe.

Figure 105 shows the appearance of the pool and its main ■dimensions. The dimensions of the pool can be changed depending on the size of the room where it will be located, as well as the available sheets of roofing iron. The idea of ​​​​building a swimming pool from plywood was proposed by Kuibyshev ship modelers *. A simplified pool is a flat tray about 6 thousand mm long, 1 thousand mm wide and 350 mm high. To make a pool, you need 4 sheets of 3 mm plywood and 4 boards 25-30 mm thick, 6,500 mm long.

After assembling the pool, carefully putty all the grooves and joints. Cover the outside and inside of the pool with hot drying oil, let dry, then paint two or three times with oil paint. On the inside walls of the pool, make marks every 250 mm, departing from the front wall by 1 thousand mm.

The pool, when filled to a level of 250 mm, holds a little over a ton of water. The water is drained through a hole with a rubber tube made in the back wall of the pool. When the pool is filled with water, the hole is closed from the inside with a plug.

In such a pool, competitions of small model ships with rubber engines were held. A temporary pool can be constructed from tarpaulin. A box is made from boards according to the size of the tarpaulin or a machine. The tarpaulin is placed inside the box, the edges are attached with a strip and nails to the walls, after which water is poured. You should not keep water in such a temporary pool for a long time. The water is released using a rubber tube.

* I. Aristov, Indoor competitions in marine modeling. Magazine "Military Knowledge" No. 1, 1954, p. 20.

From this short instruction you will learn how to create ship models with your own hands from wood. To begin with, I decided to cut out a small example. Be patient and follow my advice.

Attention: Other sharp objects are also used in the manufacture of this product. I do not bear any responsibility for any harm caused to you.

I also included quite a few photos in this article. I think you'll appreciate it.

Making ship models with your own hands

Based on this

Step 1. Materials

Everything you need to set sail:

Block (saw if necessary)

Wood knife

Chisel (I had a screwdriver instead)

Hammer

Super glue/hot glue/other glue

Thin cloth

Rope

Wooden spire

Time/patience

I took more material than required. I just happened to have some more timber on hand when I decided to add some elements to the deck.

I started working with a chisel, filed everything + removed the old flat head bolts. It's easy, I finished everything in 2 minutes.

1. Bar (later will become a boat)

1. This will help you choose the size

1. Chisel

1. fabric

Step 2. Stripping

Need to plan more

Work better on the rough edges

Step 3. Drawing and carving

For my product I chose a standard design. I combined the raw materials and then created my design. Use a pencil to sketch the design on the block. After this, start processing the timber with a sharp knife. The blade angle should be approximately ten degrees. Be patient. Remember that if you make a mistake, it will be very difficult to correct. Plane layer by layer. Try to process the block as smoothly as possible, and the top and bottom parts are parallel.

Don't throw away the shavings; they can be used as mulch.

"Bounty". He's great!

1.Try to make the block as smooth as possible

2.Lots of shavings

1.Plane slowly and carefully

1. DO NOT cut this piece. Prepare it as flat as possible.

2. Upper

1. Sharp knife

Step 4. Thread the front and sides

Now draw the front, back and bottom. Then cut out these parts in the same way as the previous ones.

Try to make them even. To get the bow of the vessel, I sawed off a piece from the front, then rounded the cut with a knife. When making the bow, I tried to tilt the blade back, towards the stern. I didn't try too hard, but it turned out great.

1. Bow

2. Drawing corner

1. Two sides are ready

1. Emphasize the texture of the timber, sand this cut

2. Try to make it the same as in the photo.

Step 5. Chiseling the ship's deck

Cut out the deck. Draw a line 2-3 mm from the edges to the top. Position the cutter on the line and tap gently with a hammer or stone (a stone is easier to work with than a hammer).

Start cutting, while pressing on the tip of the cutter with your hand, but not with a hammer. Repeat several times until you reach the desired depth. But don't overdo it, my creation cracked because of this.

1. Great chisel

1. I prepared this part as flat as possible and fixed it in the slots

1. The contour should not be too deep (~ 1 mm)

1. Cut 1 layer

1. Second round

1. Crack

Step 6. Drilling holes and installing equipment

I had some studs and drilled some holes a little larger than the beams themselves. Do not make too many holes, otherwise a crack will form and a leak may occur. Also, do not use glue. This will make it difficult for you to continue working.

1. I cut the tip so that it fits well into the hole.

1. Check. Don't use glue.

Step 7. Bow of the boat

In order to make a beautiful bow, cut off a small piece from the spire and make its end triangular. Next, take your blade and cut the corner of the top to create a small groove at the end.

Continue cutting the groove to place the triangular pin. When I was finished I attached the pin with superglue.

1. Wide and triangular

1. Carved groove

1. Excellent!

1. The nose part is connected with superglue.

Step 8. Feed

I built the stern relatively rectangular. Following this, I decided to add a few elements. It is necessary to add blocks for modernization.

I clamped the piece in a vise and, using a chisel and hammer, cut a little off both ends of the vessel.

I attached one piece opposite the stern, having previously made the appropriate measurements with a pencil.

Then I cut them off. I also made 2 more pieces for the sides. To keep them in place I used superglue.

1. This piece is ready. And again I remind you that there is no need to glue the masts together.

1. Extra piece of wood

1.Measuring the width of the vessel

1. Wood for sides

Step 9. Start setting the sails

First, decide how many “panels” you want. I did 4 for the first and second and 3 for the last. Take more wood studs and trim them (see photo). I put them together for clarity.

1. Mast 3

I then sketched out the fabric for each one and cut the fabric into a trapezoid shape, including the bottom peg. Make sure you draw 1 more piece than the number of protrusions for each part of the structure. When you draw and sketch on the fabric, make sure that the distance between each two pegs is greater than the distance between them on the boat. Also make sure that the products do not have bends. For me, I ended up with too many curves. I did not make the trapezoid-shaped structures separately, because it would be very difficult to fasten them together later. Cut the largest piece into a trapezoid shape and connect the corresponding peg.

Then, before gluing them together, first glue the third mast (the back one) and using a sharp blade, make small notches on the branches of the sails (actually, I don't know what they are called).

Fasten each branch to its corresponding notch, keeping in mind that they are not actually glued to the mast. At the bottom, glue the middle of the edges to the sails directly to it. Make sure that the “panels” are not curved.

1.Perhaps even more than this part

1. There should be a sail here

Step 10. Install the equipment

Repeat step 9 for the middle and front rigs. Make the middle mast after the back one (now connect them) and now the front one.

1. Rear mast sails and pegs on them

1. 1 mast

2. Last step

1. 2 mast

1. 3 mast

2. Next few steps

Step 11. Upper Flying Sail

Draw and cut out a figure in the form from fabric.

Take the thread and attach it to the opposite corner and glue it, leaving the ends on both sides. Do the same for the other 2 corners.

Make the tip in the form of a small triangle (should be larger than the attached thread). Cut off the excess, leaving ~5mm. Glue a small piece of thread onto the top of the boat, slightly higher than the bow of the boat.

Measure the part of the thread from the opposite corner (should be smaller, but longer) to the middle of the lower branch of the “panel” on the front mast. Cut the measured thread and glue the tip to the appropriate place (see photo).

Leave a little thread on each side, pull it back and glue it inside the boat, then cut off the excess rope. The top “panel” is ready.

Step 12. Back panel

Cut another thin peg from the spire. Make a small notch on the back of the back panel and glue a thin peg onto it. This will take plenty of time.

Now cut the second thin peg. It should be a little longer than the first one. Cut off a corner at the end.

Attach it to the back of the rear sail. Then measure and cut it to fit the 2 tabs and glue them at the corners.

Step 13. Hiding in the rays of the setting sun

Now everything is ready. The boat can be painted, but I think natural wood looks much better.

1. Paint the boat as desired

2. Thank you for your attention

The element of water has always attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. Sailing on the waves and watching new horizons open up before you is the most amazing thing that can happen in life. In order to set sail, you need to build a ship with your own hands. Even if it is not as huge as the Titanic, the main thing is that you created it yourself.

Kits for building wooden ship models (Wooden Kit) are not new to the Russian market. The question now arises not of “where to get it,” but of how to choose from the whole variety of sets such that you don’t feel sorry for the money spent on it and the time spent on building the model.

The Wooden Kit for building a wooden ship model is a set of documentation and materials. It is assumed that this is enough to independently build exactly the same model as shown on the box.

The documentation describes in detail the appearance and construction process of the model and includes general view drawings, manufacturing diagrams of parts and assemblies.

Materials are almost ready-made frame parts, lath and veneer for sheathing, blanks for all parts and components, ready-made decorations. Threads for rigging, flags, if the model has sails - fabric for sails or ready-made sails, of low quality. The required number of small parts of the same type (fittings) - blocks, deadeyes, etc. are included. and even nails, sometimes of several types. Only glue and paints are not included.

There is currently no established circle of importers of Wooden Kits in Russia. There are many fly-by-night companies that have “intercepted” a batch or two of sets at foreign sales. These companies also do not hesitate to smuggle, importing kits through “friends and acquaintances” who visit abroad. Such “dealers” work “under the table”, without spending money on taxes and duties, so their prices are lower... But such “fly-by-nights” can cheat!

There are very few companies in the world that produce wooden sets. Traditionally, trade in precious stones was concentrated in the hands of Spanish and French firms. These countries had overseas colonies, from where this wood was imported in large quantities. Therefore, the “founding father” of the most famous manufacturer of Wooden Kits, the Spanish Artesania Latina, is French.

Spanish companies

For the mentioned reason, kits produced by Spanish companies are the richest in specially prepared valuable wood - the main material for building the model.

Traditionally, “yellow metal” is also better in Spanish sets - both turned brass parts and even brass wire!

However, cast “white metal” jewelry is poorly worked and there are few of them. In many places, cast jewelry is being replaced with photo-etched jewelry.

Artesania Latina

In my opinion, the No. 1 company in the world for the production of Wooden Kits. The main advantages: the manufacturability of building models and good appearance. Now the management of Artesania has changed, young “yuppie” managers have arrived. And that’s why lately Artesania has been “recycling” old sets: the same parts and blanks are packaged in a larger and more beautiful box, the set index changes and the price increases.

For example, Artesania Latina released a “new edition” of its old set 22720 battleship “San Juan Nepomuceno” under the new index 22860. The first impression is “the product is sold by the packaging”, the box has become almost twice as large. The second impression, after carefully examining the contents, is that nothing has changed. The same parts and materials, just more freely arranged in a larger box. No changes, except for a new box and a new (increased) price.

At the same time, the company has something to truly recycle. This is a fantastically incorrect 22850 Constellation. Made according to a completely erroneous design, a mixture of a frigate built in 1798 with a sloop built in 1853, supposedly rebuilt from this frigate, but in fact simply receiving the same name! Moreover, the weapons and “history” were taken from the frigate, and the hull from the sloop. And this despite the fact that the archives preserved the original construction drawings of that frigate Constellation.

In addition to high technology, it should be noted the high quality of materials in all Artesania Latina sets. Unfortunately, now, compared to the 2002 model sets, the quality of the wood has deteriorated, but still, by this criterion, Artesania is above all others.

If ready-made sails are included in the kit, their quality is satisfactory (a “C”), and you can put them on the model, for lack of a better one. In this case, it is advisable to perform reef seasons on sails.

Artesania Latina kits are suitable even for inexperienced modelers. The appearance of the model, if qualified, can be significantly improved. The overall rating for the sets is 4 (good).

An old Spanish company has also been producing Wooden Kits for a long time.

Compared to Artesania, Constructo sets have a poorer range of valuable wood species, although the quantity and quality are more than sufficient. Much fewer decorative elements. There are practically no cast ones from “white metal”; on new sets the decor is mostly photo-etched. In general, Constructo models look "simple". Sometimes one or two blocks or deadeyes are missing, or rather there is no reserve for “losses”.

At one time there were practically no large ships in the Constructo catalog, but in 2003-04. the company released two “large-caliber” sets - the English battleship Victory (code 80833) and the American frigate Constitution (code 80836). Both prototypes are very popular among Wooden Kit manufacturers, primarily due to the availability of good drawings of both ships (not surprisingly, both are still “alive” - ed.).

The Victory set from Constructo is the cheapest of its kind and is not too complicated to build; its design is similar to the San Juan set from Artesania.

All Constructo kits are distinguished by high technology of construction and a supply of wood to “cover defects”. There are large reserves of wood to improve the appearance of models.

There are also a lot of relatively small models in the catalog that are well suited both for construction and for display in our small apartments.

The overall rating for the sets is 4 (good).

More recently, a new Spanish kit manufacturer has appeared - Ocio Creativo (Ocсre).

The company's catalog is small, which is understandable - the development of Wooden kits is not a quick process. The new company decided to “strike with numbers” and presented quite a lot of large models for sale, including the largest military sailing ship in history - the 144-gun battleship Santisima Trinidad, the flagship of the Spanish squadron at Trafalgar. It is not surprising that the newly created Spanish company decided to create a model of this particular ship for the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.

The developers of the Santisima Trinidad set were clearly in a hurry, leaving both design flaws and errors in the documentation. It seems that when the office and main production of Artesania Latina moved from Barcelona to Bilbao, some specialists from the design department were “thrown overboard”, and “out of grief” they put into use the developments rejected by Artesania.

The construction of the Santisima Trinidad model from Occre constantly brings surprises. Confusion and errors in documentation, inconsistencies in metal parts of the stern, sometimes incorrect selection of wood for parts. The ready-made sails in the kit are no good; you either have to scrap the sails altogether or make the cut yourself.

The Occre "Santisima Trinidad" kit can only be built by a qualified modeler. During construction, it is necessary to deviate from the proposed technology and drawings for an acceptable appearance of the model. Other Occre sets are no better.

For example, another set from Occre is the bombardment ship "La Candelaria". The problems are practically the same, plus the veneer is only inserted in one color - it is unclear how to finish the underwater part. An extremely unsuccessful design of the stern - the frame of the studs is made integral with the decks, so the protrusions of the studs have to be cut off and then made again using Constructo technology and the SMC method. The boat is cast and replaced during construction with a wooden one of our own making. And so in everything - replacements and replacements. These sets are junk!

Rating of sets 2 (unsatisfactory).

Italian companies
All Italian Wooden Kit manufacturers have common features. The quantity and quality of the wooden blanks in the sets are good, but the cladding strip and veneer are given “just enough”, with a minimum thickness. Sometimes, especially in small sets, thin slats and veneers fall apart in your hands, just “rot”!

The frames, which in Spanish kits are “laid” in plywood sheets, are kept separately in Italian kits. But “waste” plywood is an excellent material for bow and stern bosses, gussets, reinforcements for masts, etc. It seems that this is just petty saving of wood.

Also, most Italian kits involve making a model of a sailboat without sails. And if you want it with sails, purchase it separately (20-50 euros, depending on the model). The threads for the rigging are too short; in case of mistakes or the desire to supplement the rigging, there is not enough thread. Fittings invoice, no stock. Not all sets come with flags.

Many sets mention as a “positive feature” that all parts are made by laser cutting for the greatest accuracy. However, if the original drawing and/or machine program has errors, laser cutting will not correct them.

A common positive feature of Italian kits is well-executed drawings in the documentation. However, there are no “step-by-step photo instructions” describing the construction of the model. Therefore, Wooden Kits from Italian companies are not suitable for beginning modelers. The probability is too high, having gotten confused in the documentation and “constipated” a small amount of material, you will end up “at the bottom” with an unfinished model, and buy another set for the sake of the material or look for the opportunity to purchase fittings from the manufacturer at an inflated price. Copper cladding, if it is present on the prototype and model, is proposed to be made from finely chopped veneer painted green - or to buy brass leaves or strips for extra money.

All this smacks of some kind of gypsyism - what have the “descendants of the proud Romans” come to!

An old and highly respected company. Some consider her sets to be the best in terms of price-quality ratio. In my opinion, this is the No. 1 company among Italian manufacturers.

There are many large interesting ships in the Mamoli catalog, some are simply unique. For example, a model of the French 120-gun battleship "Royal Louis" 1798 (MV20). The magnificent bow and stern decorations are reproduced on the die-cast model and look great, although the aft balconies and galleries require some fiddling to assemble. A very good model is the MV24 "Friesland", a Dutch battleship from 1663.

All Mamoli sets feature very high quality cast white metal decorations and spectacular cast metal bronzed cannons.

But, for example, it is proposed to make the ports of the lower decks (blind) from the supplied cast frames. But the one who was able to complete this part of the work according to the instructions deserves an order for perseverance! After all, in this case you have to adjust each port frame in place. An overcomplicated double skin is planned, and the finished sheathed body is proposed to be painted, hiding all the beauty of the wood.

In the SMC studio, when building the Mamoli models, it was necessary to replace the materials used (wood), simplify the hull plating technology, develop sail patterns and change the rigging accordingly, which greatly benefited the appearance of the models.

If you work strictly according to the instructions, the model will take years to build. Lack of materials (wood) and over-complicated technology can turn model construction into a nightmare.

Overall rating 3+ (very satisfactory).

The complete impression is that the development was carried out at one time by a part of the specialists that broke away from Mamoli. Therefore, everything that has been said about Mamoli can be repeated here without changes. The quality of the documentation is very high, the construction technology is almost the same, that is, there is a lot of unnecessary complexity.

The downside is that the decorative elements are mostly cast from metallized plastic. All this decor is too shiny, we have to modify it and repaint it.

The catalog contains relatively many models of large ships - battleships, frigates. All models are relatively small in size due to the chosen (non-standard) scale. There are also unusual models that no one makes like this - for example, a model of the French galley "Real de France" or the French half-acre xebec "Mystic".

Mantua Model (Panart/ Sergal)

The company has incorporated two fairly well-known manufacturers, thanks to which it has a very extensive catalog of a wide variety of sets. The quality of metal jewelry is very high. However, photo-etched jewelry is often used instead of cast jewelry.

There are many models of large ships, including magnificent battleships: the French "La Coronne" 1636 (Mantua) and "Soleil Royal" 1690, the English "Sovereign of the Seas" 1637 (Sergal), the Spanish "San Felipe" " 1690 (Panart). There are four models of the battleship "Victory" in the catalog of this company (companies?), and one of the models in 1:78 scale is 1300 mm long! And this is not counting the separate “section” (bow) and the boat from “Victory”.

Everything is done at an average Italian level. There is a gag - a magnificent model of the Titanic. This is not just a set, but a series of 4 sets! One kit for the hull, one for the superstructures, a separate set of detailing and another “motorisation kit” - a kit for turning the Titanic model into a running one. Radio control, of course, is offered to be purchased separately.

Overall rating 3 (satisfactory).

This company doesn't make capital ship kits at all. The catalog contains many sets of yachts - participants or winners of the America's Cup. There are unique (no other company makes these) kits for building models in bottles. Bottles included. Many kits come with additional tools. In general, in the Amati catalog, more space is devoted to tools and accessories than to kits for building models.

The quality of the material (wood) is lower than that of other Italian companies, there are very few fittings. Some kits for building model sailboats have a ready-made plastic body.

The only advantage is that the casting is made “with creativity” and is of decent quality. There is a separate catalog of die-cast figurines for collectors. The castings from this company are much better than kits for building models.

Overall rating 3- (barely satisfactory).

Other manufacturers:

It is simply impossible to list absolutely all manufacturers of kits for building model ships. Many of them are not represented on the Russian market, not all because of the high price. For example, in the USA there are a large number of small (cottage) companies that produce a small number of sets in their basements for the domestic American market. Their products are not available not only in Russia, but also in Europe! Among American companies, we know, for example, the American Model Shipways - primarily for its “exorbitant” prices and over-complicated technology for building a model, “as close as possible to the construction of a real ship.” But in my opinion, as a “traditional modeller”, this is no longer ship modeling, but a perversion...

It should also be noted that cheap kits costing up to 75 euros do not provide anything to the modeler! At best, this is an almost empty box containing a wooden “blank” body and a little bit of slats. The packaging seems to be more expensive than the contents. Particularly “standing out” against this background is Panart kit No. 720, offering to build a small-scale (1:200) model of the battleship “Victory”, priced at 70 euros. Really cheap in every way. For that kind of money it’s better to buy “plastic”...

Everyone probably has (or had) a favorite activity that they don’t mind devoting their free time to. Some people have a collection of stamps, some are into photography, some like to cook, knit, draw,... and so on, you can’t list everything.
One of my favorite things, or, more simply put, hobbies, is. This news is dedicated to them.

After this, you can leave the “skeleton” to dry and start covering the deck.
Everything is not as simple as it seems from the outside - the covering boards must be laid in a certain pattern. Of course, you can just lay long planks, but it will look quite rough...

After this, the decks (or deck, if there is only one) are placed in their proper place and the first hull begins. Typically, a ship model is covered twice - the first skin is rough, it is made of very soft wood.
One by one, the planks are attached to the “skeleton” using glue and small nails, which will be removed when the glue dries.

The work is delicate, the planks do not always bend easily and can break.

After painstaking work, the entire body is covered with the first layer!

Now you need to close the gaps between the planks and sand them properly.

Then you can proceed to the front cladding. You need to be extremely careful with it - the planks are much thinner than rough ones and break easily.

The technology is the same - glue and nails.

You can imagine the amount of work (the ship in the photo, Victory, is 1300 mm long...)...

I described the assembly of the HMS Victory model in 17 reviews, everyone who wants to read it is welcome!

And this is a model of probably the most famous ship in the world - the Santa Maria (in the process of being assembled, of course).

After the second skin is finished and sanded, everything can be varnished. And then we’ll take care of the deck - ladders, boats, hatches,...
Almost all parts are made of wood and brass. There is no plastic at all.

Exterior detailing is no less important.
Well, after the hull is completed, we proceed to the rigging.
But before that you need to install masts and yards.

Each knot is tied by hand (the same sea knots :-).
And these knots are simply countless!
The sails must be pre-stitched. At Santa Maria they still needed to be painted.

If the set does not include a stand, then here you can give free rein to your imagination.
For example, I made a stand for Santa Maria from a piece of oak parquet.

And only when the very last knot is tied can the ship be considered ready!
You can proudly put it in the most visible place and with an enthusiastic “Wow!” guests, looking down, say “Yes, I did it myself...”.

Wooden ship models for beginners

CONSTRUCTO
Universal series of ships: 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Article: CNSB0620 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Two-masted schooner St. Helena was launched in 1814 and served as a link between England and its eastern colonies. The kit is a 1/85 scale replica of a schooner and is recommended for modelers with little experience.

Universal Ship Series: 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Article: CNSB6118 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Wooden model of the ship, the fishing schooner Bluenose II. Launched in 1921 in Nova Scotia. This fishing schooner gained fame after numerous victories won in classic races. Recommended for beginning modelers.

Universal Ship Series: 80615 1/100 Flyer
Article: CNSB6115 80615 1/100 Flyer

Wooden model of a pilot ship in 1/100 scale, Flyer. This American merchant ship, which was renowned for its speed, was converted into a warship and then used as a coast guard ship during the American Revolution and the War of 1812. This is a universal series kit from Constructo, quite easy to assemble and recommended for beginning modellers.

Universal Ship Series: 80616 1/100 Union
Article: CNSB6116 80616 1/100 Union
Model of the brigantine Union, a two-masted sailing ship with square sails. Such ships were very common during the 18th and 19th centuries, used as merchant or light warships, and also served as coast guard ships at a short distance from the coast. The model is recommended for beginning modelers.

Universal series of ships: 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship
Article: CNSB0702 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship

Albatros is a model of a sailing ship built in 1899 on the stocks of Holland, also known as the North Sea Clipper, one of the oldest sailing ships still sailing, one of the main advantages of which is the ability to be at sea in extremely adverse weather conditions.

Universal series of ships: 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Article: CNSB0703 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Sailing ship model, reproduction of the Spanish frigate The Carmen, built in 1861. Recommended for modelers with little experience.

ARTESANIA LATINA
Universal series of ships: 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter
Article: LATB2145 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter

The first shrimp fishing vessel appeared in 1898 and was virtually designed to work in the North Sea; these vessels eventually began to be equipped with 8-10 strong engines and were about 10 meters in length. Bremen Krabben Kutter, a small shrimp fishing boat built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany.

Universal series of ships: 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w/ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2299 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w/ABS Hull & Tools
Model ship J.S. Elcano, a replica of the Spanish four-masted naval academy training vessel launched at Cadiz on March 5, 1927.

Universal Ship Series: 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly
Article: LATB1904 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly

A 1/25 scale wooden replica boat, Bounty Jolly, from the famous historic ship HMS Bounty, famous for the feat of sailing three small ships across the ocean for 3,600 miles.

Universal Ship Series: 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w/Tools
Article: LATB2400 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w/Tools
Latina Mare Nostrum is a 1:35 scale replica of a typical Mediterranean fishing trawler built in the harbor of Arenys de Mar, Spain. Trawler assembly kit complete with tools.

Universal series of ships: 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne
Article: LATB2034 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne

Universal Ship Series: 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w/Tools
Article: LATB2445 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w/Tools

A scale replica of the Bremen Krabben Kutter shrimp fishing vessel, a small vessel built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany. Ship assembly kit with tools.

for experienced modelers

Ship models for experienced: 80621 1/110 H.M.S. Bounty
Article: CNSB6114 80621 1/110 H.M.S. Bounty
Model ship H.M.S. Bounty, formerly a merchant ship and later converted into a frigate, is famous for the mutiny raised on board by her mate Christian Fletcher Christian on April 28, 1789, while sailing to the shores of Tahiti.
Ship models for experienced: 80817 1/50 H.M.S. Bounty
Article: CNSB8179 80817 1/50 H.M.S. Bounty

Model ship H.M.S. Bounty, 1/50 scale, wooden ship model exactly like the H.M.S. Bounty 1/110, but on a larger scale and in better detail.

12800.00 rub.

Ship models for experienced: 80819 1/65 Mayflower
Article: CNSB8193 80819 1/65 Mayflower
Stand model of the Constructo Mayflower Sailing Ship. Recommended for assembly by experienced modelers. This ship is famous for the fact that in 1620, on it, 102 pilgrims made a 67-day sea voyage from England to America, where they founded a colony.

12480.00 rub.

Ship models for experienced: 80837 1/51 Enterprise
Article: CNSB8220 80837 1/51 Enterprise
A bench model of the ship Enterprise, which was built in Maryland, USA in 1799 and took part in the Siege of Tripoli in 1801.

12480.00 rub.

Ship models for experienced: 80827 1/56 America
Article: CNSB8228 80827 1/56 America
A bench model of a yacht, an all-wooden replica of the first American vessel, built in 1851, which beat fifteen of the best British yachts in a race called the America's Cup.

Ship models for experienced: 80832 1/60 H.M.S. Endeavor
Article: CNSB0832 80832 1/60 H.M.S. Endeavor
Stand model of the barque Constructo Endeavor. Recommended for experienced modelers. In June 1769, this English ship with a group of scientists on board began a sea voyage to the shores of the island of Tahiti, where the researchers intended to observe the moment the planet Venus passed across the disk of the Sun.

13040.00 rub.

Ship models for experienced: 80823 1/90 San Mateo
Article: CNSB8230 80823 1/90 San Mateo
Stand model of the galleon San Mateo. Recommended for experienced modelers. San Mateo, 800 ton Spanish ship from the 16th century, during the reign of Phillip II during the Indian Companies.

13440.00 rub.

Advanced ship models: 80834 1/26 Louise Steam Launch
Article: CNSB8100 80834 1/26 Louise Steam Launch

Ship models for experienced: 80838 1/115 Cutty Sark Kit
Item: CNSB8838 80838 1/115 Cutty Sark Kit
Wooden model of the clipper Cutty Sark, a copy of the most famous clipper Cutty Sark, launched on November 23, 1869 on the River Clyde in the Scottish city of Dumbarton. A ship model for modellers who have built two or three models before.

12560.00 rub.

ARTESANIA LATINA
Ship models for experienced: 20415 1/50 Sanson
Article: LATB1021 20415 1/50 Sanson
Model of the tug Latina Sanson. Wooden scale replica of a tugboat from the late 19th century and early 20th.

Advanced Ship Models: 22251 1/250 Gorch Fock w/ABS Hull & Tools
Item: LATB2251 22251 1/250 Gorch Fock w/ABS Hull & Tools
Model of the barque Latina Gorch Fock, a replica of a German three-masted vessel built as a school ship in 1933 for the Reichsmarine, a German navigation school.

Advanced ship models: 22254 1/250 Sagres w/ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2254 22254 1/250 Sagres w/ABS Hull & Tools
Model of the sailing ship Latina Sagres, a replica of the three-masted sailing ship, Portuguese School of Navigation, launched on October 30, 1937 in Hamburg, Germany and used to train cadets.

Ship models for experienced: 22411 1/65 Carabela Santa Maria
Article: LATB2022 22411 1/65 Carabela Santa Maria

Wooden model of the ship, a scale copy of the three-masted single-deck flagship Santa Maria (Spanish: Santa María, Holy Mary) on which Christopher Columbus discovered America in 1492.

Ship models for experienced: 1/65 Santa Maria w/Tools
Article: LATB2611 1/65 Santa Maria w/Tools

Wooden model of the ship, a scale copy of the three-masted single-deck flagship Santa Maria (Spanish: Santa María, Holy Mary) on which Christopher Columbus discovered America in 1492. The set is completely similar to kit 22411 1/65 Carabela Santa Maria, only complete with tools.

Ship models for experienced: 22516 1/60 H.M.S Endeavor
Article: LATB2026 22516 1/60 H.M.S Endeavor

Experienced Ship Models: 22417 1/56 HMS Supply
Product code: LATB2241 22417 1/56 HMS Supply

Model of a sailing ship, a replica of a 168 ton ship launched on May 13, 1787, which was part of two flotillas sent from Plymouth, England and participating in the colonization of Australia.

Advanced ship models: 22451 1/64 Mayflower
Article: LATB2020 22451 1/64 Mayflower

Stand model of the Latina Mayflower Sailing Ship. Recommended for assembly by experienced modelers. The famous ship on which, in 1620, 102 pilgrims made a 67-day sea voyage from Plymouth (England) to Massachusetts (America), where they founded a colony. This event is associated with the celebration of America's "Thanksgiving Day".

Ship models for experienced: 22452 1/90 San Francisco II
Article: LATB2452 22452 1/90 San Francisco II

A model of a ship made of wood, a copy of the galleon San Francisco II, one of the most powerful ships of the Spanish fleet of the 16th century, and for 150 years there were few ships that could rival the San Francisco in terms of their power.

Ship models for experienced: 22852 1/90 San Francisco II w/Tool Set
Article: LATB2852 22852 1/90 San Francisco II w/Tool Set

A model of a ship made of wood, a copy of the galleon San Francisco II, one of the most powerful ships of the Spanish fleet of the 16th century, and for 150 years there were few ships that could rival the San Francisco in terms of their power. The kit is completely similar to kit 22452 1/90 San Francisco II, only complete with a set of tools.

10160.00 rub.

Wooden ships and sailboats

For many, prefabricated ship models are something more than an ordinary hobby and an interesting activity. This is, first of all, an opportunity for self-expression, a way to realize your talents and, at the same time, to be distracted and indulge in dreams. Regardless of whether it is a combat ship, a modern yacht, or a military galleon, each ship personifies all the power and splendor of the sea.
Tabletop wooden ships have excellent decorative qualities; it is impossible not to admire them. Therefore, wooden ship models always become a worthy decoration for any room, be it a study or a home living room.

To work on each ship model you will need enviable patience and accuracy. But the result of painstaking work is an assembled model, which will become a well-deserved source of your pride.

Materials

Everything you need to set sail:

Block (saw if necessary)

Wood knife

Knife

Chisel (I had a screwdriver instead)

Hammer

Super glue/hot glue/other glue

Thin cloth

Rope

Wooden spire

Ship modeling is one of the leading hobby areas in Russia. By purchasing a wooden ship model, you will receive not just an interior decoration, but also a museum-quality model. There is no shame in giving a wooden sailboat to friends and family. When making, you will develop skills such as perseverance, accuracy and patience. Let’s immediately say that it takes many months to assemble complex models, but believe us, it’s worth it. Prefabricated ship models made of wood is one of the most exciting and challenging trends in modeling. Most prefabricated models are replicas of real ships with a rich history. In our collection you will find a Viking ship, a pirate ship, ships from the time of Admiral Nelson, and many yachts. You will be proud to show your finished sailboat model to your friends.

If this is your first ship model, then we recommend paying attention to the companies Amati and Occre. Since we have translated the instructions into Russian for almost all models, the price/quality ratio is higher than that of other manufacturers.

Sheets of compressed and glued wood veneer are the main material for all modeling enthusiasts. This material is easy to cut, well processed, and you can find drawings of ships made of plywood on the Internet, since it is from plywood patterns that many craftsmen begin to get acquainted with this art.

Creating ship models yourself is not the easiest task, but it is doable. You will need some knowledge and skill. In this article we will tell you about the basic techniques, and if you wish, you will hone your skills yourself.

Necessary materials

If you want to make a small ship model, you will need the following materials:

1. Wood - linden, walnut, cedar or other species, preferably non-fibrous and soft. Wood blanks must be smooth, free from damage and knots. Wood can be used as a material for the main parts of the model - the deck and hull, as well as for small elements.
2. Plywood. This material is most in demand. For ship modeling, balsa or birch plywood is used, as they are less susceptible to chipping when cut. Model ship plywood usually has a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.
3. Veneer is thin plates of natural wood of expensive species. As a rule, they are used for veneering, that is, gluing surfaces made of inexpensive materials.
4. Fastening elements - laces, thin chains, brass and copper nails, threads, etc.

You will definitely need wood glue, tracing paper and cardboard to transfer the templates. Small parts are made of metal. As an alternative to metal, you can use colored polymer clay.

Every job must begin with preparation, and modeling is no exception. First you need to decide what you plan to build. If you have not encountered the art of ship modeling before, we recommend that you first find drawings of a plywood ship on the Internet: they usually contain the information you need and even a beginner can understand them.

On sale you can find ready-made kits that allow you to assemble a ship from ready-made parts. Beginners should be interested in such kits, although they are sometimes quite expensive. It is better to master the technology from the very beginning.

Print out the drawing and make templates for the main elements based on it. We transfer the templates to plywood, and then proceed to sawing.

Cutting out parts

Blanks can be cut with a manual or electric jigsaw. The latter is more expensive, but with it you will have less hassle when cutting out small elements:

1. We make a starting hole in the plywood sheet and insert a blade or jigsaw file into it.
2. We cut out the part, moving along the intended contour.
3. We process the created workpiece using a file, removing small chamfers along the edges and removing burrs and chips.

When working on one part (sides, deck, keel, etc.), you need to immediately cut out everything necessary. This way you will spend less time and the work will move faster.

When everything is prepared, you can begin assembly.

Assembly sequence

Work must be carried out in the following sequence:

1. First, we put transverse frames on the keel (longitudinal beam). There is usually a groove at the bottom of each for attaching to a plywood keel.
2. To join, you can use standard glue, but you can use special adhesive mixtures that are intended for ship modeling.
3. We fix the upper parts of the frames on the deck. For simple ship models, the deck consists of one sheet of plywood, while for complex ones it can be multi-level.
4. After the glue has dried on the frames, you can begin covering the side with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should not exceed 1.5 mm, since only in this case can you bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
5. To bend veneered plywood, it can be heated and moistened. After this, the material bends easily, and over time takes on a stable shape.

You can cover the body for painting with a continuous sheet. To imitate plank cladding, it is better to use strips up to a centimeter wide, depending on the scale.

Secure the glued plywood with clips and clamps and leave to dry.

Final finishing

Once the case is assembled and dried, you will need to do the following:

1. Make deck superstructures from thin plywood and secure them.
2. The sides must be built up so that they protrude above the plane of the deck.
3. We cover the surface of the deck with wooden veneer or line it with an awl, imitating plank cladding.
4. Make and install all the small elements such as the steering blade and steering wheel.
5. Attach the masts with additional devices (spars), set the sails and stretch the structure using rigging threads.

Finally, the plywood elements must be treated with stain and varnished. This will provide the souvenir with at least a couple of decades of complete preservation.

conclusions

The first thing you need before creating a wooden ship with your own hands is desire. Almost anyone can make a simple plywood boat with their own hands - you just need patience and minimal skills with a jigsaw. If you decide to implement a complex drawing with many small details, you will need to work hard. This is why we recommend starting with the simplest models. Gradually improving your skills.