Lined, neat, well-groomed paths are one of the main decorations of the site. The problem is that even if everything is done correctly and carefully, weeds gradually begin to grow between the elements of the path. It spoils the appearance of the paths, lifts the tiles or moves them. That is why it is necessary to fight it - otherwise, soon your path will turn into ruins.

Let's figure out what to do to prevent grass from growing on the paths. A few tricks - and your site will be well-groomed and beautiful again.

What should I do to prevent grass from growing on the paths?

Many summer residents believe that if they dug up the soil thoroughly and pulled out the roots from it, then they will forever block the paths for the growth of weeds. It is not difficult to guess that not everything is so simple - weeds will grow because:

• its seeds are carried by the wind and clog the smallest cracks (spores simply love the space between the tiles)

• Birds carry weed spores in their droppings.

• the seeds on the soles of shoes are brought not just to the site, but directly to the paths.

Therefore, even if you have carefully prepared for creating garden paths, you are still 90% likely to encounter weed growth. What to do in this case?

It's not that complicated anymore:

• Wait for the sprouted weeds to grow; you will have to pull them out by the roots.

• Have you weeded the paths? Prepare a mixture of water, sulfuric acid and quicklime, boil and cool it, and then thoroughly water all the paths. This method will not allow you to get rid of weeds forever, but you will forget about them for a long time. The main thing is not to pour the mixture onto the beds - it has a detrimental effect not only on weed seeds, but also on the crops being grown.

Mold and moss occur in areas with poor drainage, in shaded areas, and in low areas.

To get rid of them:

• Perform mechanical removal.

• Remove leaves and debris.

• Sprinkle the paths thickly with regular sand.

• Thoroughly clean the path with a heated soapy solution (soap effectively removes spores, sand acts as an abrasive cleaning agent). The ideal choice is good old laundry soap - it works much better than synthetic laundry detergent.

• Pour a mixture of vinegar and water over the treated areas.

Weeds in the garden and on the lawn - this does not look aesthetically pleasing and harms ornamental plants or agricultural fruits and vegetables. To survive and develop, they are forced to fight with wild competitors for access to light, water and nutrients. Without human help, it is not possible for pampered and cultivated varieties to win this battle. In this article we will look at how to fight weeds in the garden and consider the best means and methods.

Definition and classification of weeds (wild plants)

Plants growing on agricultural lands and causing damage associated with a decrease in yield, deterioration in the quality of grown products and damage to soil fertility. This definition characterizes the degree of harmful effects of wild weeds. Plants that are undesirable in garden plots are divided into varieties, which determines how to influence them to prevent their random spread.

Gardeners' experience. When choosing a tool for weeding an area, pay attention to its working length. The effectiveness of using hand tools does not depend on strength or height, but on the angle of inclination of the working surface in relation to the ground.

Manual weeding of summer cottage from weeds

An affordable, economical and at the same time labor-intensive method for cleaning a personal or summer cottage. You will need simple gardening tools and free time, which you will have to spend in the fresh air to benefit the future harvest and your own health.

Manual weeding is the most reliable way to eliminate them, but at the same time it is the most labor-intensive

Despite their apparent primitiveness, hand tools can become indispensable assistants in the fight against wild plants. In addition to shovels, rakes or forks, which are traditionally used for work in the garden, you should also use other tools that are presented on the shelves of specialized stores. This will allow you to perform monotonous manual work with less labor and in a short time.

1. Hoe. Shovel and pickaxe, which are combined in one tool. The sharp blade made of durable metal is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the base. Used to loosen the soil and remove unwanted plants.
2. Combination hoe. Two functions are combined - a chopper and a rake. The tool is used to remove and collect weeds in narrow spaces between beds or in hard-to-reach places.
3. Weed removal rake. A modern tool that makes your work much easier. Equipped with a special mechanism that penetrates deep into the ground and grasps the roots. With the help of a foot rest, the wild plant is completely removed from the soil.
4. Cultivator for extracting the underground part of the plant. Indispensable when removing old roots. Thanks to the design of the teeth screwed into the ground, it can easily enter the ground to a depth of 20 cm.
5. Fork. Used to control weeds in narrow spaces. It sinks into the ground and captures roots without damaging nearby crops.

It is important to consider that the necessary tool is selected based on the characteristics of the site and the plants located on it.

How to fight weeds in the garden: alternative methods

In spring, a suitable method of provoking the rapid growth of weeds is using plastic film, which creates greenhouse conditions for the rapid growth of weeds. After they appear, the area is weeded

It is recommended to cover small areas with an opaque film after harvesting. This creates greenhouse conditions for the germination of wild plants, after which they are removed from the site. This method also gives positive results when preparing the soil for planting in the spring. Warming up provokes the rapid growth of wild weeds that are preserved in the ground. After this, the area is weeded again.

Mulching is a good way to suppress the development of weeds - covering the soil surface with organic or inorganic materials. With a mulch cover thickness of 5-7 cm, weed development slows down significantly. Another solution is the use of mulching non-woven covering agrofibre. In addition to other advantages, the use of this method is characterized by the fact that the dark color and dense texture (50-60 grams per square meter) stop the development of unwanted guests in the covered area.

Gardeners' experience.“Stubborn” weeds are destroyed using a blowtorch or an industrial electric hair dryer. The above-ground part of the weed should be burned several times every 20-25 days. This creates additional stress on the roots and leads to their depletion.

Use of chemicals to control weeds

The use of chemistry is notorious among gardeners and gardeners. But this is a superficial and incorrect judgment. After all, it is not the drug itself that is scary, but the incorrect use of a proven remedy. When treating an area with herbicides (chemicals used to destroy vegetation), you should strictly follow the instructions for use developed by the manufacturer. This will help get rid of wild weeds and not cause harm to cultivated plants.

The fastest way to control weeds in the country is to use chemicals. Before use, you should carefully read the instructions so as not to harm valuable crops.

The destruction of weeds with chemicals is carried out on a dry, windless and cloudy day. Only the green part of weeds is processed. It is recommended to cover plantings of flowers or fruits and vegetables located near them with film to protect them from contact with chemical compounds. Herbicide exposure to the treated area begins immediately.

For each type, a chemical preparation suitable for it is used. This will help get rid of wild plants without causing harm to fruit and vegetable crops and will increase their productivity. Below is a table of some vegetable crops and herbicides recommended for them with characteristics of their effect on weeds.

Name	Means	Action
Cabbage	"Butizan"	Affects cereals and dicotyledons.
	"Panther"	Destroys annual and perennial cereals
	"Semeron"	Used to keep crops clean.
Tomato	"Treflan"	Destroys annual cereals and dicotyledonous grasses.
	"Stomp"	A 33% solution eliminates dicotyledonous annual cereals.
Beet	"Peramine"	It affects annual dicotyledons at the seedling stage.
	"Burafen"	Destroys broad-leaved wild plants.

Practice confirms that the use of herbicides effectively simplifies the fight against weeds, interrupts their appearance for a long time and increases the yield of crops.

Folk remedies for weed control in the garden

Despite the convenience of using chemicals, the overwhelming number of summer residents prefer less scientific, but safe and proven methods of weed control based on folk experience. Not the least role in the choice of means is played by the question of the relative cheapness of such an approach. Therefore, a trip to the nearest grocery store can replace hours of studying specialized literature and searching for the necessary chemical substance.

1. Salt. If you make a path of salt around the garden bed, the spread of wild plants in such an area will decrease. With each watering, the saline solution penetrates deep into the soil and prevents their development.
2. Soda. Alkali is an indispensable assistant in the destruction of unwanted weeds. Watering with a soda solution leads to immediate destruction.
3. Vinegar. The acid contained in its composition literally burns the above-ground parts of all types of wild plants. Spraying heavily clogged areas of the ground with vinegar gives an immediate effect.

The use of traditional methods allows you to quickly get rid of dense areas with weeds, but the ingress of vinegar, salt or soda solutions harms valuable plantings

Please note: the described methods negatively affect both weeds and crops. To prevent undesirable consequences, the following recommendations are observed:

• Treatment with salt and soda - at a distance of 30 cm (or more) from the planting beds;
• Spraying vinegar is only possible in calm, dry weather. If the solution gets on crops, it will destroy them.

Combinations of the components described above can be used to create your own drugs. Salt, vinegar and grated laundry soap in equal parts - with the resulting solution, taking precautions, large areas with heavy contamination are treated. Based on the results of its effect on unwanted plants, this recipe was popularly called “herbicidal soap.”

American way. Weed control using drip irrigation and alcohol

Targeted watering of only valuable crops through a drip system can reduce the intensity of weeds in the garden. This works great in hot areas

Organized drip irrigation can become an effective means of combating wild plants in a personal plot. Its principle is to feed only cultivated plants with moisture and the beneficial substances supplied with it. This increases the viability and competitive power of plantings. Wild weeds deprived of water significantly slow down their growth and development. This method does not eliminate the need for preventive weeding in the beds, but it becomes a good help in the comprehensive fight against clogging of the site.

An unexpected technique that can make it easier to defeat weeds was proposed by American farmers. 30 days before planting, they recommend treating a plot of land with 6% ethyl alcohol or a vodka solution in a proportion of 0.15 liters per bucket of water. Alcohol feeding initiates rapid germination of seeds in the soil. After which, unwanted plants can be selectively removed from the treated area and fruit and vegetable crops can be planted in clean soil.

Beneficial use of weeds in a summer cottage

A large number of weeds in the garden leads to a decrease in yield and the occurrence of diseases in valuable crops

Weeds, of course, are a problem in the garden and bring additional trouble to land owners in cleaning the soil. However, they are high-quality raw materials for the production of natural fertilizers, which will increase the yield and reduce the financial costs of purchasing expensive drugs.

To prepare your own fertilizers you will need:

1. Barrel (iron or plastic);
2. Polyethylene film;
3. Water.

Weeds (along with soil) are placed in containers - it is recommended to fill the container to 50% of its volume. In this case, you can lightly compact the green mass. After this, the barrel is filled with water to 9/10 capacity. Free space is reserved taking into account the subsequent increase in volume during fermentation. The top of the container is covered with plastic film to create an oxygen-free environment and enhance the fermentation process. After 10-14 days, the mixture will stop foaming, acquire a rich dark color and an unpleasant odor. This means that your homemade fertilizer is ready to use. The resulting solution should be used by diluting it with water. For root feeding the proportion is 1:10, for leaf feeding 1:20.

Unwanted plants in the area are often used for culinary or medicinal purposes. This is due to the high content of vitamins, minerals and trace elements in them.

Name	Useful material	Properties, application
Snooze	Vitamin C, vegetable proteins, compounds of potassium, copper, iron, zinc, calcium. Contains dextrose, fiber, carotene	Reduces the likelihood of the formation of malignant tumors, has a positive effect on the immune system, and stimulates the proper functioning of the gastrointestinal tract and excretory system. Improves the functioning of the kidneys, heart, and circulatory system.
Nettle	Group of vitamins B, E, C, PP, K. Contains magnesium, fiber, iron, calcium, potassium, micro and macroelements	Used in alternative medicine for wound healing and bleeding. Increases blood clotting. Used for making jam, jelly, and winemaking processes.
Plantain	Rich in vitamins C, A, K, carotene, phytoncide, flavonoid, acids and salts	Stops bleeding, effective in treating cuts, bruises, boils, and abscesses. The juice is used for gastritis, stomach ulcers, and infertility.
Dandelion	Contains fatty and essential oils, sucrose, proteins, tannins, iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, inulin, zinc, selenium, copper, carotene	Gives anti-inflammatory, choleretic, diuretic, antipyretic, tonic effect. It has a wide range of uses for cooking. A recognized delicacy is dandelion jam and coffee.

Essential: the use of weeds in cooking or for medicinal purposes should be based on individual physical characteristics. After all, even harmless ingredients can cause harm. For example, burdock, which has a whole range of useful substances, is contraindicated during pregnancy or a tendency to diarrhea.

Answers to pressing questions from gardeners

You should not leave an empty area without planting, because... this is a potential breeding ground for weeds. It is recommended to completely sow the entire usable area

Question: The site is very neglected and overgrown. How to quickly remove perennial weeds?

The most effective is deep mechanical plowing with a cultivator, walk-behind tractor or mini-tractor. After that, manually select all the roots.

Question: I know that two-color agrofibre has appeared on sale. What is it for?

Black agrofibre is guaranteed to suppress the growth of any wild plants in the beds; without access to light they cannot develop. However, black color has a bad effect on the growth of cultivated plants. Therefore, enterprises began producing two-color coatings. The white side, which faces upward, reflects daylight and supports the positive dynamics of ripening of fruits and vegetables.

Question: What types of vegetables should you plant to get rid of weeds?

In fact, it doesn’t matter what exactly will be planted in the beds. Most of all, wild plants love free plots of land. Among cultivated plantings, annual wild plants most often grow - they are much easier to cope with than perennial ones with strong and branched roots. Therefore, the entire available area should be sown with useful plants. Occupy the vacant bed for fast-growing crops or green manure.

Question: What materials should be used for mulching?

This question does not have a clear answer. Because almost anything can be used as mulch. Pine or spruce needles, bark, hay or straw, green matter (including weeds), paper, cardboard... It is important to ensure that the mulch layer is thick enough, but does not interfere with the normal breathing of the roots of cultivated plants.

Question: The edges of the beds, the row spacing, the path near the fence - these places have to be weeded several times a week. How to stop this?

There is no vacuum in nature, and fighting weeds is like fighting windmills. The problem is not with wild plants. The problem is psychology and the desire to restore ideal cleanliness and order. There is no way to solve the problem - change your attitude towards it. This does not mean that an ugly weed “jungle” should bloom on the site. But you should know that the desire to completely destroy wild plants is practically impossible. You have to come to terms with this and take it for granted.

Conclusion

Many weeds are very persistent and adapted to the climate and means of controlling them. Wild plants truly represent a worthy opponent, which can only be defeated by the constant use of a whole range of measures to protect the soil.

Mechanical removal of weeds in the garden is very labor-intensive work and, moreover, often not very effective. After some time, plants appear in the beds again, depriving garden crops of the nutrients they need so much. The thing is that even with the most thorough weeding, small roots of weeds still remain in the ground, producing shoots. There is only one way out of this situation - to use a special chemical preparation designed to completely destroy unwanted plants in the garden or yard. This weed killer is called a herbicide and is sold in any specialty store. There is also a less effective, but also less harmful to the soil and cultivated plants, “folk” analogue of such preparations - ordinary vinegar with salt.

Classification

Currently, only two types of herbicides are used to control garden weeds:

• Selective. Such products act selectively on one or another type of weed.
• Non-selective. Herbicides of this variety, when applied to the ground, destroy all vegetation without exception.

Herbicides also differ according to their principle of action. A weed killer (instructions for using herbicides will be discussed below) can penetrate plant tissue:

• through the leaves to the root;
• through leaves and soil into all parts of the plant, including seeds;
• only through the soil.

Recently, preparations have also been developed that destroy moss and saturate the soil with useful micro- and macroelements.

In addition, herbicides can be contact or systemic. The first type of preparations has a detrimental effect on weeds only in direct contact with their parts. Systemic herbicides, after contact with the leaves, penetrate into the tissues and spread throughout them, destroying all parts of the weed, including roots and stems.

The “folk” remedy, vinegar with salt, also classified as a herbicide, can be classified as a systemic one with general action.

Selective drugs

There are simply a huge number of herbicides of this type that cope well with weeds. Very often, summer residents use, for example, “Zenkor”, “Foxtrot”, “Eraser”, “Puma Super”, “Lazurit” to clean beds.

When using any weed killer on your site, you must follow the dosage specified in the instructions for use. At too high concentrations, these drugs can have a negative effect on both the soil and crops.

Operating principle and use

Selective herbicides contain special substances that inhibit the development of plant tissues and cause their death. These could be, for example, ACC inhibitors. These substances prevent the formation of fat in plant tissues, as a result of which their cells stop growing. Also, selective herbicides may contain various types of elements that imitate plant hormones.

Any weed killer should, of course, be used correctly. Most often, areas are treated with herbicides by spraying. The solution can be poured, for example, into a spray bottle. It is advisable to treat weeds in calm weather, trying not to get on cultivated plants. The spraying time should be chosen so that there is no rain for 24 days after it.

Selective herbicide "2,4-D"

This drug is considered the most effective selective agent. It has been used to control weeds since 1940. To date, more than 22 herbicides have been created based on “2,4-D” and have been successfully used in agriculture. The main active ingredient of this drug is 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid. It is a white crystalline substance. The herbicide “2,4-D” is moderately toxic and belongs to the second hazard class.

The growth of weeds after treatment with this drug stops within a few hours. The herbicide “2.4-D” is produced in the form of 50 and 61 percent solutions, as well as 70 and 72 percent concentrate. It is used mainly to control annual dicotyledonous weeds in wheat and corn crops.

The best herbicides for the garden

To treat beds with tomatoes, peas and potato plots, a preparation such as “Agritox” is very often used. This herbicide has a detrimental effect on weeds such as grass, nettle, shepherd's purse, cornflower, dandelion, wild radish, arrowhead, etc.

Cucumbers and other cucurbits can be sprayed with Halosulfuron or Bensulide. Linuron is perfect for carrots. Herbicide "Lazurit" is used for all types of vegetable crops.

The best weed killer for your lawn

The most popular product intended for treating lawns is the selective herbicide Lontrel-300D. This product is very effective in controlling both annual and perennial weeds. Using it, you can clear the lawn of such types of grass as sow thistle, Tatar molokan, knotweed, cornflower, coltsfoot, legumes, chamomile and, most importantly, the persistent dandelion. At the same time, it causes absolutely no harm to lawn grasses.

General drugs

Herbicides of this variety are usually used not for spraying beds, but to kill weeds in the yard, along the edges of the lawn, along paths, etc. You can also treat the soil with these preparations in early spring before planting crops. They are completely removed from the soil within about a month. The main active ingredient in general herbicides is most often ferrous sulfate.

Treatment with non-selective preparations is also usually carried out by spraying. Some herbicides, both selective and general, are available in dry form. They are either diluted with water or scattered around the area (on damp soil).

Herbicide "Roundal"

This is the most popular all-round weed killer today. It spreads through plant tissues within 5-10 days. Around the same time, the first signs of damage appear on their leaves. Weeds die about a month after spraying. It is best to treat plants with Roundal in sunny, warm weather. There is no need to mow the grass. The greater the vegetative activity of the weed, the faster Roundall will spread throughout its parts, and the faster it will die.

To cultivate the land before planting garden crops (vegetables, potatoes, melons, oilseeds, etc.), as well as to completely destroy grass along paths, hedges or in the yard, the drug "Roundal" is diluted in a proportion of 80-120 ml per liter of water. Spraying or watering is carried out at the rate of 5 liters per 100 m2.

Herbicide "Tornado"

This is another popular drug, also often used by summer residents. This herbicide is usually sold in bottles. The manufacturer recommends spraying with a product diluted in three liters of water. However, experienced summer residents advise using the Tornado herbicide a little differently. To avoid touching other plants, the drug should be diluted in a bucket. The treatment is carried out using a broom, carefully “lubricating” the weeds with the solution.

Best remedy: vinegar with salt

Of course, purchased herbicides are effective and easy to use. However, such funds are usually quite expensive. In addition, most summer residents prefer to use any chemicals in the garden as rarely as possible.

Therefore, many owners of suburban areas try to replace purchased herbicides with “folk” remedies. Acetic acid is usually used as the simplest and safest. For spraying beds, a 5% solution is most often used.

To treat your yard, you can also use a more effective “folk” weed killer - vinegar and salt. Prepare such a herbicide as follows:

• 3.8 liters of vinegar 9% is poured into the bucket;
• half a glass of salt is poured there;
• add a little liquid soap;
• everything is thoroughly mixed.

Use vinegar weed killer in the same way as chemicals. Spraying should be carried out as carefully as possible. Drops from the spray bottle should not be allowed to fall on crop plants. The best time for processing is early morning.

Typically, white vinegar is used to kill weeds. You can also take apple one. Summer residents who decide to use this “folk” herbicide should be aware that in large quantities it can leach nutrients from the soil.

“Folk” weed killer: reviews

Many summer residents use vinegar to remove unwanted plants in their yards and beds. However, reviews about it online are quite contradictory. What do they say about this weed killer? Vinegar with salt in no way has any harmful effect on the chemical composition of the soil, since it very quickly decomposes into carbon dioxide and water, some believe. According to others, the splitting process takes a long time, and the use of vinegar can negatively affect plant productivity. But in any case, maximum care should be taken during processing. Don't pour vinegar on the ground. Processing is carried out strictly on the leaves.

Of course, vinegar causes some harm to the soil in any case. However, the same “Tornado” and “Rwandal” can hardly be considered harmless. They cost much more, but the effect of their use is almost the same.

What is the best remedy for weeds is, of course, up to the owners of the dacha plot to decide. Some people prefer store-bought chemicals, while others may prefer “folk” vinegar. In any case, the use of herbicides helps save time on mechanical weeding. However, of course, such compositions should be used “wisely”. Otherwise, along with weeds, you can “free” the garden from cultivated plants.

With the beginning of growing the first garden crops, humanity was also faced with weeds, which, to the detriment of the entire surrounding world, developed much more successfully than their cultivated brothers. With the emergence of the problem, the first methods of combating harmful plants appeared, differing in their purpose and implementation.

Method #1 – regular mechanical weeding

This is perhaps the simplest and most common method, despite its complexity. The main property of weeding is regularity, which means constant connection to the garden. Vigorously waving a hoe and even working with a walk-behind mower will not produce results if you forget about weeding for at least two weeks, and besides, the effectiveness of the action is minimal. Garden regulars such as wild oats and wheatgrass tenaciously hold on to the soil with their rhizomes, which spread around and form a real carpet. Removing part of the rhizomes does not deprive the plant of life, but only promotes their rapid reproduction.

Using a small fork instead of a hoe or spade for weeding, you can not only free the soil from weeds, but also loosen it at the same time

Along with traditional tools, a weed extractor is used to weed beds. To remove a plant, simply immerse the extractor in the soil and turn it 180 degrees.

Method #2 - using covering material

• linoleum;
• black film;
• cardboard;
• roofing felt

The method for clearing the soil of weeds is simple: cover the desired area of ​​land with an opaque, airtight material for 3 or 4 weeks, after which it can be removed. Not a single plant will withstand such conditions, and the roots, stem buds and leaves will naturally die, after which they can be easily removed with an ordinary rake.

Some weeds have tap roots that go deep. Sometimes the length of rhizomes and their shoots reaches 1 m or more

The peculiarity of this method is that weed control must occur before sowing or planting vegetable and berry crops, that is, the procedure must be carried out as early as possible. In the middle zone, March is recognized as the optimal time for covering work. A pleasant exception is strawberries, which can coexist quite happily with black film. The beds are completely covered, leaving nests for berry bushes. As a result, the film simultaneously performs a number of functions:

• attracts sun rays;
• helps retain moisture in the soil;
• prevents rotting of berries;
• stops the growth of weeds.

The use of black weed film dramatically increases the yield of garden strawberries. Sweet and juicy berries do not touch the ground, so they remain whole and healthy

Method #3 – drip irrigation device

A rather interesting system of targeted spot irrigation not only remarkably saves water, but also feeds only the necessary vegetable crops. Water flowing from a water supply or a large tank raised above the ground moves through pipes and hoses, and then seeps through small holes punctured in the places where vegetables are planted. The essence of watering is to saturate only useful plants with moisture, without giving weeds a chance to grow.

With drip irrigation, all the moisture goes to the plant for which it is intended. Dry soil around the crop is a guarantee of protection from weeds and the proliferation of harmful insects

Method #4 – protection by mulching

Mulching has been used for quite a long time, and to create mulch - crushed mass - quite different natural and artificial materials are used:

• fallen leaves;
• dry grass;
• compost;
• straw;
• crushed film;
• landscape fabric.

A layer of carefully crushed material 6-7 cm thick is placed in a dense carpet around the vegetable crops. It allows air to pass through, retains moisture, maintains the necessary temperature for optimal root growth, and at the same time serves as an effective barrier to weeds in the garden.

Biological or artificial mulching mixture is evenly distributed throughout the entire bed, leaving random nests for plants, taking into account their size and growth rate

When laying mulch on the ground, you must adhere to a number of rules. If plants are planted in autumn, then the protective mass must be added immediately after planting. In early spring, before using mulch, you should check whether the ground has warmed up well. If the weeds have already begun to grow, it is necessary to thoroughly weed the soil, and then lay a thick layer of crushed mass - up to 18 cm.

Chemical attack on weeds

The weed army has many warriors: wild oats and chamomile, creeping wheatgrass and horse sorrel, tansy and jasmine, St. John's wort and string. But none of these plants can withstand aggressive chemical action - spraying with herbicides.

There are a number of means of so-called systemic action. These include “Tornado”, “Roundup”, “Growd Bio”. They are applied to the visible surfaces of plants - leaves, stems, inflorescences. The toxic composition is absorbed by the pores of grasses and gradually accumulates in their roots. A big plus of these products is their absolute safety for the surrounding soil. The land is not polluted, so after herbicide treatment, cultivated plants can be safely planted. The duration of exposure to pesticides depends on their composition and the degree of resistance of the weeds; most often, 2 weeks are enough to completely clear the area.

“Agrokiller” equally well destroys not only annuals and perennials, but also shrub and woody shoots. With its help, you can effectively fight the dangerous and tenacious hogweed, which can cause extensive burns.

In order not to damage vegetable crops or berry bushes, a simple tool is used to apply herbicides to weeds - an ordinary paint brush

The main rule when using herbicides is to carefully and accurately apply them only to harmful flowers and herbs, since the toxic substance kills any plants equally effectively, including berry bushes and vegetable crops. Due to the total destruction of all living things, the optimal use for herbicides is their spraying in areas far from the beds, but also in need of cleaning: thickets along the fence, grass nests in furrows, burdock and thistle bushes along the sides of garden paths.

Let's take a closer look at the two tools. Roundup is a universal herbicide that is used to get rid of absolutely any plant. It does not have soil activity, so it is used before sowing vegetable crops. If you act according to the instructions, the product is completely safe for people, animals and the environment. A 1-liter container, which is enough for 20 m², costs 1,250 rubles.

Often large containers of continuous herbicides (such as Roundup) are equipped with a small pump and hose, which add convenience and speed to the process.

The second popular remedy is “Tornado”. In the garden it is recommended to use it against weeds such as cattail, wheatgrass, bindweed, thistle, pigweed, and reed. After applying the composition, after about 8-10 days, the plants begin to turn yellow, wither, and after 2.5-3 weeks they finally die. After about 3-4 days, you can plant vegetables and berries on the treated soil. A 1 liter container costs 900 rubles.

Herbicide "Tornado" is safe for animals and bees, but is poisonous for fish. When using it, avoid contact of the solution with the mucous membrane of the eyes

Having learned how to fight weeds using various methods and means, you can increase productivity and turn semi-wild garden thickets into an exemplary plot.