Such tasty, healthy and juicy grapes are the favorite berry of many children and adults. Gardeners grow different varieties of this wonderful plant to try all the versatility of its taste. But buying seedlings is quite expensive. There is an easy way to grow young plants at home without buying cuttings. You can prepare and plant them yourself. So, if you want to propagate your favorite grape varieties, then go ahead!

Grape cuttings are harvested in the fall. It is best to select the material at the time of cutting. You can make cuttings from shoots whose diameter is approximately 7-10 mm. From the selected branch you need to remove everything unnecessary - tendrils, shoots, leaves, as well as tops that have not had time to ripen. This will ensure long-term storage and prolong growth capabilities.

Only 4 buds are left on each cutting. This is quite enough for the cuttings to begin to germinate in the spring and to be able to gain a foothold in the ground after planting. A cut is made 2-3 cm in height from the upper bud. The cutting is cut at an angle. At the bottom of the finished cutting, three vertical cuts are made, up to 3 cm long. Thanks to them, he will get a better metabolism and, accordingly, will settle down more quickly.

When all the cuttings are ready, it is best to collect them by variety, tie them into bundles, and label them. Different varieties in one bunch draw beneficial substances from each other and affect their neighbors. Therefore, sorting plays an important role.

When preparing cuttings, it is important to pay attention to their color. It should be green without any rot or damage.

It is also important to properly treat grape cuttings before wintering so that they are well preserved. The vines tied into bunches are placed in water for a day, after which they are treated with copper sulfate (5% solution). Next, the workpieces need to be dried.

There are several ways to properly store grape cuttings in winter. The first involves placing bunches with cuttings in plastic bags. Wet sawdust is also poured inside. To ensure that the cuttings can breathe, the bag should not be tied tightly. The finished package should be left in the cellar. The temperature should be 2-4 0 C. Usually it is the cellars that meet these requirements. Another plus or minus 1-2 0 is allowed.

If you live in a multi-story building, then its basement may not be suitable for temperature conditions. In such rooms there are often communications that significantly increase the temperature. If the cuttings are too warm, they will begin to breathe and waste all their nutrients. As a result, you will have too weak seedlings. And this is even at best.

The second method of wintering cuttings is suitable for summer residents who do not have cellars, as well as for those who grow grapes in large quantities. First, right on your site, you need to select a place where a trench is dug. Protected places located on a hill are best suited. For example, near buildings - sheds, garages, or fences. This will prevent rain and melt water from flooding the cuttings. You can artificially drain water from the trench using a dug ditch and a slope.

As for the size, it all depends on the number of cuttings prepared. The depth should be approximately half a meter. The cuttings are also tied into bundles and labeled. They are then carefully placed in a trench. Before this, the bottom is sprinkled with wet sand (layer - 5 cm). All cuttings are laid tightly, but so that they are not damaged. Moist (but not wet!) sand is again poured on top in a layer of up to 10 cm. Then the trench is covered with earth in a thick layer - 25-30 cm.

The third method is characterized by frank simplicity, but great efficiency. It is suitable for those who want to save a small number of cuttings. The storage space in this case is a simple refrigerator. By the way, you can save not so little in it - about 200 cuttings.

Before being sent to the refrigerator, the cuttings are wrapped in natural and clean cloth. They are then placed in a bag with a small breathing hole. The fabric should be checked periodically and kept damp.

You can start removing cuttings from wintering shelters at the end of February. After removal, their suitability must be checked. The vine is wiped with a rag to remove mold and vitriol residues after the autumn treatment. If the cutting is well preserved, then it does not look overdried, the bark does not peel off or wrinkle. The cut of the cutting in the spring should be bright green.

Preparation of cuttings consists of the following steps:

After just 10-12 days, maybe a little more, the top bud will begin to swell. Next, a young shoot will appear there. As it evaporates, fresh, clean liquid is added to the water. After 20 days, the cuttings will take root. When the process begins, it’s time to prepare them for planting.

You can germinate grape cuttings at home using available materials - plastic bottles, cups.

In glasses, germination is carried out as follows.

• Three holes are made at the bottom of the containers using an awl.
• First, soil with leaf humus is poured into the glasses (2 cm layer).
• A smaller container with a cut out bottom (also a glass) is placed on top. You need to pour soil between the walls, compact it and water it.
• Clean river sand is poured into the inner container, after which it is watered.
• Now you can remove the smaller container and insert the cutting into the middle of the sand, deepening it by about 4 cm.
• The sand needs to be watered again.
• The glass is covered with a plastic bottle with the bottom and top cut off.
• Such seedlings are watered with warm water every 1-2 days.

You can remove the bottle when the seedling grows up to 4 leaves, and its roots are visible near the walls of the glass.

You can germinate cuttings in bottles. To do this, the neck is cut off and holes are made in the bottom. First, the drainage is filled in, then the soil mixture (about 7 tbsp.) A stalk is stuck into it. It should be tilted so that the top peephole is level with the top of the bottle. A layer of old steamed sawdust is poured on top and everything is covered with a plastic cup. When the shoot grows, the cover is removed. The cuttings are watered through a tray.

Planting in open ground

Sprouted cuttings can be planted in the ground no earlier than the moment when the average temperature per day is above zero. The selected place should be treated with urea and watered. 2 hours will pass - it’s time to plant grape seedlings. They need to be placed every 2-3 m. 1.7-2 m is left between the rows. In order for the seedlings to take root and grow better, their roots are trimmed a little when planting.

Cuttings need to be planted in special planting holes. A mound is poured at the bottom of such a trench, into which the cutting is planted. Having straightened the roots, they are carefully sprinkled with earth. After this, the soil is compacted and watered. The cutting is covered with a cap, for example, from a bottle. It is shaded from the sun using gauze or newspaper thrown over the cap.

Grape cuttings are often planted in trenches or holes. This method has a number of advantages. Among them:

• Convenient watering and fertilizing;
• Light shelter for wintering;
• Simple conversion to a greenhouse;

Trenches are dug 30 cm deep and approximately 45 cm wide and long. Immediately before planting, fertilizer is applied to the ditch - 2 ash and 150 g of potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. Everything is mixed with the soil and watered. The soil after onions, vegetables and root crops should be treated with potassium permanganate before planting grapes. Planting in ditches is sometimes done using a crowbar - it is used to first make holes for the cuttings with roots.

There is also a difference between the vertical and inclined planting methods. As for the distance between the cuttings, the future method of growing grapes depends on it. If you plant less often, the bushes will be lower and easier to care for in our conditions. Dense planting leads to the fact that the next season the bushes form and grow vertically. This allows you to increase fruiting. But this method requires more care, and covering it for the winter is more difficult.

Planting grapes with cuttings: video

Care for planted cuttings is the same as for other grape bushes. First, you need good watering. Young plants especially need it. You only need to water at the roots. In spring - as it dries. We don’t water it 1-2 weeks before flowering, and after it ends, let the plants drink again.

Growing grape shoots need to be tied up correctly. It is best to make a horizontal garter with a slight slope. But the vertical method is also used, in which growth is more active from the upper ocelli.

Pinching will help increase yield and quickly form a bush. The top above the 10th node is removed a couple of days before flowering.

If planting was accompanied by the application of fertilizers, then they will last for about 3-4 years. Then fertilizers, both organic and mineral, are applied again. Manure, compost, peat, and bird droppings are good options. Suitable minerals include potassium salt, ammonium nitrate, superphosphates, and urea. In spring, dry fertilizers are used under the bush in the grooves. Before flowering, water with a solution of mineral substances.

Also, further care of the plant includes shelter for the winter, pruning, treatment against diseases and pests.

Grapes - germinating cuttings in water: video

How to plant grape seedlings correctly

HOW YOU CAN PLANT GRAPES

1. A good seedling is the beginning of everything

Our most beloved and popular sport is

running along the rake!

Despite any pleas and exhortations of those who distinguish varieties not only by the praises of traders, buy seedlings on. markets will always be there. Well, if the issue of varieties is still beyond our consciousness, then let’s at least not pay for dead seedlings! You need to learn to distinguish them from the living. To do this, at the time of purchase you will have to become a picky expert - which you, as a buyer, have every right to do.

NEVER WORTH:

a) take autumn, lignified seedlings with leaves. A competent seller always cuts off the leaves immediately after digging - through them the seedling quickly loses moisture. If you are touted about leafy bare-rooted seedlings, you can be sure that you are being mistaken for a sucker - the greener the sucker, the better!

In general, you should not buy seedlings before the mass selling season. The ripening of the shrub can be artificially accelerated, and resellers try to take the seedlings early and sell them first. But the seedlings are too early - mature only on the outside! They are stored much worse than ripened ones. The craftsmen of the south have a “guild law” - not to dig the school before October 1;

b) you should not take vegetative seedlings whose roots are not visible through the transparent walls of the pots. If the seller insists that his seedlings in opaque pots are good, calmly remove each one from the pot and make sure that it is not a stuck shoot. The resourcefulness of market “sellers” is sometimes amazing, you know. Finally,

c) you should not take dead and dried out woody seedlings. They successfully disguise themselves as living ones, so you will have to bravely carry out an examination on the spot. For this you need a small sharp knife. Demonstratively take it out and with the words “Well, let's see, let's see!..” take the seedling in your hands. This is where everything will become clearer. If the merchant protests, silently turn your back and calmly go look further. If not, it means he is calm about his product. Cut the wood above the upper eye of several seedlings - it should be juicy greenish. Scrape the bark - on a living seedling it is green and damp. Finally, shorten the spine - the cut should be white and moist. If the cuts are brown or dry... well, you shouldn’t scold the seller loudly - perhaps he’s a simple seller who has no idea what he’s selling!

If the seedlings are alive, you need to be able to assess their development - at least in order not to offend an honest seller.

A NORMAL WOODY seedling is at least 35-40 cm from the top of the cut vine to the heel with roots, a young vine (growth) is as thick as a pencil or a little thinner, mature, it has 3-4 living buds, and the roots are at least 3-5 pieces - have a length of at least 15 cm. The roots of a grafted seedling are usually twice as large and dense.

A VEgetating seedling has a green shoot, or better yet a pair of shoots, that has all the signs of growth, and by the time of sale (in the south - mid-May and later) it should not be shorter than 30-40 cm. Numerous white roots are clearly visible through the transparent container.

This is the standard for seedlings. But there is not always a choice.

Weak seedlings are not a problem!

- Doctor, can I play football?..

- What other football?

- Well, in the future...

- In what other future?!

A trip to a familiar collector to buy seedlings should be planned in advance. I got busy, was a week or two late, and lo and behold, he had already sold out the highest quality excavation. And you are left with UNDEVELOPED, WEAK seedlings of your favorite varieties. The roots are usually normal, but the vine is thin, with only a couple of mature buds. This is not a problem. Take it with confidence. They cost less, and the bushes can be grown the same.

The main thing is not to plant them in place in the fall: they may suffer in winter and be severely stunted in growth. They should be considered as very well-grown cuttings. We need to give them a run and grow them like vegetative seedlings.

Until February, store them: in the basement, in a pit with sand, or in the refrigerator - below, in a bag of sawdust, slightly moistened with salt. And in February, plant in containers of 1-1.5 liters and grow them in the window. Just don’t forget to treat for phylloxera! By May, vegetative seedlings are obtained. Plant them in smart holes once the danger of frost has passed. By autumn, the bushes will be the same, or even stronger, than from dormant seedlings planted in place.

In the northern regions, it is wise to grow seedlings for a year, or even two, in buckets with a holey bottom. This is what they do, for example, in Belarus (V.P. Kukharev). Even normal seedlings are grown to speed up their development. The bucket is filled with a mixture of humus, sand, earth and crushed stone (broken bricks), and stones are placed at the bottom. In spring, seedlings are planted here. After the frost has gone, the buckets are placed under the south wall or on the south side of a solid fence. To prevent the roots from going into the soil, slate and iron are placed underneath. The seedlings are tied up, watered and regularly fed with organic compote. Warming up the soil in a bucket and the heat from the wall doubles the growth rate of seedlings - compared to those planted immediately in place.

Do you know why all flower pots taper towards the bottom? Only then to create the worst conditions for the plants. Flower growers have known since ancient times: if the roots are free, the flowers grow well - but they bloom poorly! And in order for them to bloom, the volume of the roots is extremely reduced.

A bucket is the same as a pot. And finally there was a man who looked at the bucket with a sober eye.

A. A. Kuznetsov (Prikamsky village, Perm region) turned over the bucket - and won a lot! He attaches the handle to the upper, narrow side, and inserts wire staples into the wide lower part. By placing a piece of cardboard, straw or shavings on them, a temporary bottom is obtained (Fig. 68). The volume here is twice as large, the coma shape is natural for the roots, and the water evaporates much more slowly. And when planting in place, I took out the staples, lowered the container into the hole, removed the bucket - and the seedling continued to grow, just as it was here!

If the seedlings are not planted in the fall

Nothing is more pleasing to the eye

like deep and healthy sleep.

IF the seedlings are good, and there are no special ambitions regarding their record growth, it is best to plant them in the fall. In a good hole, in the soil, under a protective earthen mound, they will overwinter reliably. But the holes have not yet been dug, or the seedlings need spring accelerating procedures - then planting is postponed until spring.

FOR SUCCESSFUL Hibernation, seedlings, like vines in general, need three conditions: moderate humidity, air and a temperature close to zero. The main danger is fungal diseases: mold and spotty necrosis. They are activated if the vine is wet. And the warmer it gets, the more vulnerable the wet vine is.

Therefore, it is important to follow two rules. 1. The main thing for a dormant vine is that it does not get wet and is dry. Only the roots can be sprinkled with soil. The vines need to be wrapped in cardboard or canvas so that they can breathe and protected from getting wet in the rain or during a thaw. 2. Before planting, it is useful to completely dip the seedlings in a 1% solution (100 g per bucket) of copper sulfate. After this, they dry for several hours and go to bed dry.

There are several storage options. You can euthanize the seedlings in the cellar, in slightly moistened sand or sawdust.

It can be done in a dry trench, sheltered from water, at such a depth that the seedlings do not freeze in their sleep. It is best to sprinkle a dozen or one and a half seedlings with slightly moistened sawdust, wrap them in two bags and put them in the bottom one; refrigerator compartment. They'll sleep well until March.

When, where and how to plant

Don't dig a hole for someone else -

use the one he dug for you!

SLEEPING SEEDLINGS can be planted when the soil warms up to 10-12°C - at this temperature roots begin to grow. A characteristic moment: the flower buds of apricot and cherry plum burst. In any case, it is important to place the seedlings in place before their buds begin to emerge. Otherwise, the shoots will suck the seedling faster than the roots begin to work.

In autumn you can plant before the first serious frost. In the south these are usually November holidays.

When planting before winter, the holes are filled up immediately, and the seedling is covered with a protective soil mound - this will protect it from frost. On top is a piece of film, roofing felt or slate: the seedling should not get wet! In the spring, the mound is loosened so that the upper peephole is lightly covered with earth. This will protect the kidneys from drying out, which is very important in the south. Early varieties can be covered more thoroughly - while the shoots break through, frosts can go away. The mound is raked in the summer, when the shoots have already become stronger and it is time to give the trunk the desired slope.

BEFORE PLANTING, it is better to soak dormant seedlings in Water for 24 hours. There is no need to remove the lower eyes: they will remain dormant and will be useful later, producing shoots to replace damaged or old sleeves.

Far Eastern winegrowers never leave a stump from a former cutting on a seedling. In a region where it can rain all summer, this leads to rotting of the wood below the stump. Therefore, the upper cut is made flush with the vine of the seedling and carefully coated with varnish. This wound must be overgrown - otherwise the bushes will be weakened.

VEGETATING SEEDLINGS can be planted from the moment frosts stop. In the south - until the end of June, in the north - until mid-July. They are planted in a lump, and the roots are almost not affected by replanting. But the tender shoot suffers greatly. The main thing is not to plant them immediately in the sun: they will burn! For the first 2-3 weeks you need to shade them. For example, plywood panels.

Seedlings that are grown in buckets can be planted in pre-prepared holes all summer, until the first cold weather.

It is already clear where it is better to plant grapes. Here we mention that seedlings should not be planted in the vineyard, between mature bushes. In most cases, they do not allow young bushes to develop normally - they crush them with leaves, roots, and suppress soil fatigue. To successfully replace old bushes with new ones, you have to uproot a whole row or strip at once, dig solid holes and add a lot of organic matter. Otherwise, you won’t get strong growth, and why would you need weak growth?..

2. Theory and practice of successful landing

And time rushes like a horse in a harness,

And, like the past, I don’t stir it up,

When things get really hard:

I plant grapes - not according to a piece of paper.

If it doesn’t work out, I’ll ask for advice.

A. I. Prikhodkin

The distance between the holes is a matter of planting the vineyard. And now - about the landing technique itself.

Without any exaggeration, we can say: the first years, or more precisely, the first months of a bush’s development determine how quickly it bears fruit, how strong and durable it becomes. On heavy southern loam or salt marsh, planted in shallow holes, bushes simply survive with all their might, and will die sooner than grow. On the contrary, good vegetative seedlings in rich soil, in fertilized holes, when watered with drainage, produce two or three three-meter vines in the first year, and by the fourth year they already have a full load of bunches.

A smart, high-quality pit provides the roots of the bush with everything necessary for powerful growth - organic matter, moisture, heat, air - for 3-4 years. It has been verified: spending effort and a few materials on installing smart pits is many times cheaper than losing bushes and waiting for years for harvest!

What is always useful

Well, that's it, girls -

We immediately remove dirty dishes -

and quickly set the table!

1. OPTIMUM PLANTING DEPTH. In the south, it should provide protection from droughts and dangerous frosts, as well as temporary control of phylloxera. For self-rooted bushes, this is an average of 50 cm. On southern loams and chernozems, 40-45 cm is sufficient. North of Volgograd, as well as on sandy soils, which freeze and dry deeper, it is better to plant at 55-60 cm. Seedlings grafted onto a vigorous, frost-resistant rootstock (for example, Kober 5BB) are planted at the same depth. Planted smaller, grafted bushes may not lose vigor, but are more reactive to the weather and less stable.

There are observations that bushes planted smaller than 50 cm react to rains by cracking the berries and reduce the accumulation of sugar due to jumps in soil moisture (V.N. Manko). Therefore, in Sochi, where bushes with shallow roots grow normally, it is better to plant them deeper.

In flooded areas, bushes use only the top half meter of soil, and grapes need to be planted to a depth of 20-25 cm, pouring a mound of soil on top. On the Don, such areas have long been covered with straw or reed mats to allow the soil to breathe (V.I. Naumtsev, Novocherkassk).

In Siberia and the Non-Black Earth Region, the soil below half a meter may not warm up above 10-12°C at all, and the upper 20 cm can freeze very much in snowless winters. Therefore, grapes are planted to a depth of 30-35 cm. Frost-resistant varieties of R.F. Sharov and hybrids of Amur grapes can be planted even shallower without fear of freezing of the roots.

Primorye, especially the coast, is a zone of heavy clay soils and a large excess of moisture. The fertile layer is often no deeper than 30 cm. On the hills the subsoil is stone, in the lowlands it is heavy loam or clay. Therefore, it is useless to dig deep holes - long-term rains settle them and turn them into “lakes”. The roots begin to suffocate and rot from below. Here grapes and trees are planted in hills or ridges, deepening into the soil only 20-25 cm, or even less; the roots are covered with a layer of earth no thicker than 15-20 cm. In lowlands, drainage from gravel is required. Moreover, they make sure that water flows faster from the site along the grooves (N.V. Tatarinova, Terney village; O.A. Galver, Partizansk).

Like other plants, grapes have some roots that are nourishing, and some that are aquatic. Feeders live in the upper meter layer of soil, and water ones pump moisture from the subsoil. If it is sufficiently permeable, the roots penetrate to a depth of 3-6 meters and deeper. If groundwater is close, all hope lies in the top layer, and it is better to plant grapes in the hills.

2. COVERING DEEPENING. In sheltered areas, especially north of Volgograd and Donetsk, it is better to place the upper eye of the seedling 6-10 cm below the soil level. Then the sleeves come straight from the ground, without a standard. The bases of the sleeves are given an inclined position in the first summer. It is more convenient to cover such a bush. A stationary ditch is made along the row, where the bushes are laid for the winter, south of Rostov: covering ditches are not needed: a small depression is made around the bush so that the pre-bent trunk lies freely on the ground without breaking (Fig. 69). If this is not done, covering the bushes for the winter becomes very difficult.

3. DIRECTION OF GROWTH. Growth of seedlings in the first summer. It should ALWAYS be directed vertically upward: this enhances shoot growth. To do this, a temporary pole is stuck into the hole, or the shoot is guided along the twine. In summer, you can bend the base of the shoot for convenient shelter, but its tip should always grow upward along the support. Fallen, bent shoots do not grow, but branch, sending up strong shoots.

4. DIRECTION OF ROOTS. The seedling always grows roots at an angle of approximately 45° downward. Roots that do not receive such a slope are inhibited or die, and the seedling waits until the necessary roots grow again. For a weak seedling, this may take all summer. Therefore, distributing the roots and giving them a slope along the slopes of the soil mound is not unnecessary fuss! It is better to shorten roots that are too long.

5. MULCHING PLANTING PITS. There are observations that a freshly filled pit in hot weather loses its water supply in two weeks. Therefore, it is recommended to water young plantings frequently. But it will be much better if the pit does not dry out so quickly! To do this, immediately after planting, the hole and the soil around it are mulched with organic matter - straw, leaves, husks, grass. A blanket 10 cm thick will allow you to water the seedlings three times less often.

Should I prepare the soil for a vineyard?

For a very interesting, entertaining job

Young diggers required.

Reading that a serious winegrower must shovel, mix with organic matter and sand and put back in place all the soil of the vineyard to a depth of up to a meter, an ordinary summer resident experiences a shock. Then he comes to his senses: no one dug it up - and somehow it grows for everyone! Why bother? Here, as always, it all depends on the goals.

If you are planting a vineyard for commercial fruiting, then not thoroughly preparing the soil to a depth of 80-100 cm is a big mistake. Here the investments will pay off many times over: Only on a high agricultural background, table varieties, and especially high-market new varieties, produce strong bushes and especially large, high-quality bunches - which is what appears in catalogs and descriptions. This is especially important on difficult-to-permeate, dense southern chernozems and heavy loams.

If you are a summer resident who does not claim special marketability and productivity, then it is quite possible to get by with normal planting holes. But on light, loose soil with permeable subsoil, the holes can be quite small. If the subsoil is sandy or peaty, you can even plant under a garden drill. There is quite enough organic mulch and fertilizing - and the bushes develop normally.

So, if you are a commercial winegrower, then building a vineyard will be a major undertaking, and the soil is an essential basis for construction. Previously, a lot of humus and sand were brought into the site and everything was plowed with a planting plow to a depth of 70-80 cm or manually, starting with trenches for planting rows. It's very labor intensive. Many craftsmen simply bring fertile soil and humus to the site in layers, and, if necessary, sand, raising the site by a meter. Such, for example, is the vineyard of V.N. Krainov in Novocherkassk.

B.V. Morozov’s site in the village of Plastunovskaya was prepared at lower costs. First, he distributed several Kamaz trucks of humus around the site. Then he drove the “cockerel” and dug trenches under the rows every 3.5 meters: the top half meter of soil in one direction, the bottom in the other. Then the top layer of soil with the addition of humus was dropped to the bottom. And then he filled the trenches, interlayering the humus with the remaining soil. There was at least half a cube of humus per bush.

Boris Vladimirovich did not add sand to the trenches, and maintains the looseness of the loam with a constant thick mulch of straw. Vegetating seedlings in such soil produce 3-4 shoots of 4-5 meters each summer. For eight years without applying nitrogen fertilizers, Boris Vladimirovich receives 4-5 kg ​​bunches of Laura. This is the agricultural background for grapes that is called high.

Preparing trenches with organic matter is the most effective way to plant a vineyard in damp Primorye, where the heaviness of the soil is complemented by their extreme nutritional poverty (O. A. Galver, Partizansk).

Katarovka: pros and cons

With our right hand we count

areas of effective nutrition,

that is, we exclude it from the soil volume

fertile component!

Yu. A. Buinenko

Catarovka - removal of superficial, dewy roots of a bush. A forced measure necessary only when the soil is kept open. It is worth attention because now we have 99% bare soil. It can be useful and justified only in the south, with normal, permeable subsoil.

Dew, or adventitious, roots develop at the surface of the soil in order to bask in the warmth earlier than others and drink the moisture of the rains. This is a wise adaptation that allows the bush to use the warmest and most fertile top layer of soil, rich in organic matter. They grow especially strongly in wet years and in irrigated areas. When kept open, the soil is vulnerable to drought and frost. They often die and then grow back.

And let them grow - the bush will only benefit. But they have two harmful properties. Firstly, a bush that “drinks dew” is very responsive to rain, and varieties that are prone to cracking immediately bring this harmful addiction to life. And secondly, when switching to dew plants, especially with surface watering, the “stupid” bush stops growing the main, heel roots. If you don’t like the subsoil, they may even die! In the steppe regions, where summer droughts give way to winter dry winds and frosts without snow, dew roots regularly die - the bushes are left almost without roots.

To avoid such surprises, industrial vineyards are catarrhized once every 2-3 years: they dig up the root stem to 30-40 cm and cut off all adventitious roots. It's still work. And the bushes suffer: some of the shoots immediately “drop their ears”, growth is weakened. For the sake of strengthening the heel roots, we ourselves turn into a combination of frost and drought - two in one! In order not to damage the bushes, it is necessary to prevent the growth of dew roots in advance.

To do this, almost the entire stem of the buried seedling, from the growth to the heel roots, is loosely wrapped in polyethylene or a cut plastic bottle (Fig. 70). If you decide to secure the wrapper with ties, then they should be hebbish so that they rot quickly and do not crush the growing trunk.

In the north, where grapes use only the top, warm layer of soil, catarrh is pointless - there you need to cover the soil surface with organic matter in order to create the best conditions for surface roots. The same applies to the heavy, flooded soils of the south. Here grapes can grow only on dewy roots - in mounds or ridges, under thick mulch. On the Black Sea coast, where there is no frost, dew roots can also become the main roots of the bush.

I will emphasize repeatedly: mulch is the main condition for the preservation and productivity of surface roots. She protects them - from droughts in summer, and from frosts in winter, and provides constant food. Autumn leaves and straw are especially good as a “blanket”.

Often, when the main roots have been destroyed by phylloxera, the rooted bush clings to life with dew roots for a long time. A dozen mediocre shoots for such a bush is the limit, and if you pull well, it is pulled out of the soil. To cut such a bush means to destroy it.

3. YOU CAN PLANT IN DIFFERENT WAYS

Plant the vines!

... Archaeologists made a sensational discovery.

They found a rake

which no human has yet set foot on.

This is the most reliable and trouble-free way to get a powerful bush with rapid growth by planting a cutting without roots. It's all about the cuttings. Its length is a meter, or better yet, one and a half. You need to plant a whole vine, and not the weakest one! Tops and strong terminal shoots, removed during autumn pruning, are what you need. For planting, it is better to cut out an average of one and a half meters of mature vine, and if due to the weather it has only matured by a meter and a half, you can take it with the heel - part of the mother’s sleeve. Planting with a vine is a reliable way to root varieties whose cuttings take root poorly (M. M. Dark).

The pit is prepared as usual, charged as standard with organic matter, superphosphate and ash, and set to warm up as early as possible (see the next chapter). The vine is placed in a ring on heated humus and covered with a 7-10 cm layer of soil (Fig. 71). The entire long underground part is at the service of young shoots. Later it will become a powerful root system - hence the strong growth.

M. M. Tyomny describes another way to overcome poor rooting of cuttings - planting in an arc (Fig. 72, left). At the same time, a powerful root system is also formed, and two or three shoots emerge from the fold at once - ready-made sleeves in the very first summer. You can plant the arc with the fold down - then two strong shoots will come from the ends of the arc (Fig. 72, right).

And the main thing for quick rooting is warmth. If you pour a couple of buckets of hot water into the hole before planting, the heat supply will push the roots out a few days earlier. But it is better to direct solar heat into the pit.

Spring planting with warming up

Who grew up in Sochi,

That's why Rostov is the North!

This method, described by E. A. Klyuchikov, is successfully used by winegrowers in Ukraine.

The roots of the seedling, spread out in a hole at a depth of 40-50 cm, are covered with a 10-15 cm layer of soil and watered with warm (40-45°C) water. Soil heat is the main and reliable growth accelerator. Therefore, the hole is not filled up, but covered with film - turned into a greenhouse. You can do it on arcs, or you can simply throw the film onto the soil roller and press it down with earth or stones (Fig. 73, left). In this case, you need to slightly push the film somewhere on the side and puncture a hole there so that rainwater does not accumulate on the film.

When the shoots of the seedling begin to grow, a slot is made in the film, and the shoots are directed through it up along the guide (Fig. 73, right).

Usually there is no overheating in such pits, but when the heat comes, it is better to open the film for a day. After the frosts have gone, the film is removed, and the soil in the hole is mulched to retain moisture; the hole is finally filled in closer to autumn, giving the trunk the desired slope and covering it in an “anti-root tuxedo.”

You can set up a greenhouse immediately after the snow melts. You can plant it 3-4 weeks earlier - a big gain in time! Vegetating seedlings recover faster after transplantation. Those who are over-vaccinated and weakened manage to come to their senses. And strong seedlings accelerate so that bushes can be formed more quickly.

A special advantage of the warm pit is the unconditional leadership and strength of the heel roots. The bush will remember all its life: good heels are cool! But he will also remember that he began to grow in an equatorial climate. Therefore, it is better to grow uncovered bushes in areas of risky viticulture in the usual, Spartan way, accustoming them to frost.

BANK OF SKILLS

Smart pit with drainage

If in your garden

throwing enough stones -

build a cottage out of them!

On prepared, fairly loose and sandy loam soils, drainage does not play a big role: already in the second year, strong roots leave the hole and feed far beyond its boundaries. In this case, it is better to add more organic matter to the bottom of the hole. Another thing is heavy loams and southern chernozems. They are too dense and do not allow water and air to pass through well. In addition to organic matter, it is recommended to add sand to the pits, but you need a lot of it, otherwise the clay “absorbs” it, almost without changing its properties. Here, good development of bushes is ensured by drainage from stones. Large crushed stone, gravel, broken brick, expanded clay - everything is suitable. This method, proposed by M. M. Dark and long known to masters, was taught to me by a winegrower from Severskaya A. M. Karasev.

The hole is dug as usual: a cube with an edge of 60 cm or something similar. At the bottom - a shovel of ash (potassium) and... one and a half glasses of superphosphate (phosphorus). On top is a layer of crushed stone or gravel, 10-12 cm. A pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm is stuck into the crushed stone, closer to the wall, from the side of convenient watering - asbestos-cement, plastic, or simply a box of boards. It is important that the bottom of the hole has a slight slope from the pipe - otherwise the spilled water will remain under the pipe. The upper edge of the pipe is 10-20 cm above the soil (Fig. 74, left). It is covered with a lid so as not to become clogged with any debris, mice and toads.

To prevent the crushed stone from quickly becoming covered with soil, chips, sticks, and pieces of slate are laid on it - not all over, but so that the roots can easily penetrate deep into it. Then it is poured: 10-15 cm of soil - the top, fertile layer. Now 3-4 buckets of humus are poured into the center of the hole. A couple of buckets of water are poured into it. The roots of the seedling are spread over a small humus cone. The seedling deviates to the north, so as to expose its “tummy” and the top bud to the sun. The hole is filled with the remaining soil so that only the upper bud of the seedling remains on the surface, and mulched (Fig. 74, right).

In general, the more organic matter in the pit, the better. The best fertilizer for feeding grapes is humus. This was experimentally confirmed by German winegrowers (P.P. Radchevsky) and has been used by many of our winemakers for a long time.

In the first year, the seedling is not fertilized, but only a bucket is poured into the pipe weekly, and in drought - a couple of buckets of water. In search of moisture and nutrition, the roots grow quickly and colonize the soil space both in the hole and beyond. In the future, it is easy to apply liquid fertilizers through the pipe; neighboring bushes will use them. With the same effect, half or three times less water is spent on watering, and it feeds the main roots rather than the dew roots.

As already mentioned, on relatively light soils drainage is hardly useful, and it is better to place a cushion of humus (compost) and fertilizers at the bottom of the hole. Indeed, humus is actively pulled away by soil animals, the walls of the pit are loosened and more actively absorbed by the roots. In addition, deeply embedded organic matter rots slowly, does not feed the roots immediately and is used for several years (B.V. Morozov).

Sunflower or corn stalks, shavings, straw and other bulky organic matter should not be placed in a hole in large quantities - having rotted, they will sink heavily, and the roots of the grapes may be damaged (V.I. Sokolov). Let me add: fresh manure, droppings and feces cannot be used to fill holes - excess nitrogen is strictly contraindicated for grapes!

If possible, it is better to use expanded clay instead of crushed stone. It is very moisture-intensive - an excellent buffer that smoothes out moisture surges. In addition, it does not compact, allows roots to pass through better and contains air. Finally, it is lightweight - it does not settle into the soil as quickly, can be used as mulch, and is much easier to work with.

Underground green manure

"Passengers are requested

eat the seeds with the peel!”

I read the idea from M. M. Dark. Using old recommendations, he added a handful of barley to the planting holes, to the roots. By rotting, the sprouted grain produces a lot of stimulants, breeds beneficial microbes and worms, and the soil is noticeably structured. The benefits are clear! I think the idea of ​​“underground green manure” is good for. planting any crops. But I wouldn’t limit myself to a handful of barley, but would use any living grain, a couple of glasses at a time, as a dietary supplement to improve the soil in planting pits.

Two grape seedlings in a hole

In cramped conditions - yes, the third is a wheel!

The idea is simple and is used by many winegrowers. You can plant two seedlings in one hole, extended by 20-30 cm, that is, 80-90 cm long. But on good, loose soils, it is not necessary to lengthen the holes. Thus, 10 bushes can be placed on the trellis and on the arch by digging only 5 or 6 holes (Fig. 75).

Trench planting

“Once upon a time I bought a dacha solely because

so that in hard slave labor

to raise a strong younger generation.

Since then I’ve been working on my own!”

In essence, it is the creative development of elongated pits until they completely merge. I.S. and S.I. Galkins from Taganrog were the first to open my eyes to the merits of trenches. At the bottom of the trenches there is organic matter and continuous gravel drainage, each bush has its own pipe for watering and liquid fertilizing. The trellis posts are placed half a meter to a meter from the trench. The bushes are planted in a trench and brought to the trellis along a groove, in the manner of layering.

Of course, here you have to tinker more, digging trenches. Another difficulty is a flat bottom, without depressions in which water will accumulate. But on the other hand, an excellent, extended zone of increased comfort is created for the roots of the entire row. Perhaps this is the only real way to ignore the shortcomings of any soil - except for a swamp. The bushes confidently carry a double, and grafted, triple load, braiding arbors and enlarged L-shaped trellises. So if the soil cannot be dug with a crowbar, but your intentions are serious, bring gravel, humus and drive the “cockerel” without further ado!

Cutting- straight to the place

The simplest things always lie on the surface.

That is why it is so difficult to get to the bottom of it.

Why don't we plant cuttings right away? Because by the time of planting at the required half-meter depth, the soil is too cold for the development of roots from callus: in the south - 10-12°C, in the north 7-10°C. So you first have to root the cuttings in a tree, at a depth of 8-12 cm. The only exceptions are the Black Sea coast and southern regions with very loose, quickly warming soils. These are mainly sandy or humus floodplain soils. Here you can simply stick long cuttings into inclined “shafts” punched with a crowbar to a depth of 35-40 cm. But there are few such areas.

It is the need to replant - that is, schooling - that slows down the development of the plant for the whole year. If you plant the cutting immediately in place, and even accelerate its development, then the base of the bush is three meters high, and the vine grows in the first summer. The most reliable method for this purpose is container planting. In 2001, it was described by S. V. Korolev (Kirovograd). Modified and combined with heating pits, this method is also described in the book “Grapes: promising and new varieties with elements of agricultural technology” (Novocherkassk - Odessa - Zaporozhye, 2002).

The already mentioned greenhouse over the pit is installed as soon as the snow melts. Black humus in the pit accumulates solar heat well. While the pit is warming up, the cuttings are being prepared for planting. In the south in mid-March, and in Siberia in mid-April they are taken out, selected, soaked and cut. The finished cuttings are planted in “containers”.

A container is a narrow bag 20-25 cm high, with a soil mixture (sand - humus - soil, equal parts). This is how he prepares. It is filled 3/4 full with the mixture, then 2-3 cm of sand (fine expanded clay) is poured in, then the edges of the bag are wrapped, it is turned upside down and placed on a tray or rack (Fig. 76). Sand (expanded clay) appears at the bottom. From above, through the film, a cutting is stuck into the bag. Between its heel and the sand is 5-7 cm. Before planting, it is useful to shake the cuttings in a hot bath.

Then the containers with the cuttings are kept warm for a couple of weeks until the roots appear. And if the soil in the hole has already warmed up to 20-25°C, the containers are immediately planted in place. The dried pit is watered with warm water. The bottom of the bag is cut off and it is placed on a warm soil mixture. Humus, peat or soil is poured around it in a layer of 5-7 cm. A greenhouse is again placed above the pit (Fig. 77).

After a couple of weeks, roots begin to grow. They receive maximum heat, developing first in the bag and then in heated soil. At first, in case of strong night frosts, they need to be covered with thicker humus. If there is an excess of cuttings, it is better to plant two in one hole so that in June you can choose the strongest seedling. The other one can be removed, or it can be brought closer to the chosen leader - to get a bush with double roots (according to A. M. Stetsenko).

Antiphylloxera planting

Throw in sand! May phylloxera rest in peace.

The method was proposed by L. S. Shugin. If phylloxera doesn't tolerate sandy soils, why not use this? In the spring, we place the disinfected seedling in a hole on a humus bed, sprinkle it with soil and grow it under a film, as described above. Closer to autumn, we dress it with an “anti-catarrh” wrap, and fill the upper 40 cm of the hole with sand. In the first years, phylloxera will not be able to get close to the bush - that’s good. Water penetrates well to the roots, and sand that has dried on top is a good mulch. Weeds are pulled out with two fingers. To prevent such a pit from freezing in the harsh winter, it is easy to cover it with a layer of straw or leaves.

If it's too wet

The mountains were far away

and Mohammed did not like them since childhood...

In Siberia and the Non-Black Earth Region, and especially where the wet climate suffers from unpredictability (for example, in the Southern Urals and Primorye), it is necessary to protect the roots of grapes from excess water, increase soil aeration and warm it up. Here it is better to plant grapes in hills, covering them with organic mulch after the soil has warmed up well.

For example, N.G. Sergeev (Yuzhnouralsk) plants grapes shallowly and pours a high ridge on top. Excess water rolls off it, and the slopes are better warmed by the low-standing sun. Nikolai Georgievich adds a lot of slag, sand, bones, crushed stone and ash to the pits, and puts 20 cm of stones at the bottom for drainage. Many gardeners throw iron and burnt cans into the holes - air and iron prevent chlorosis.

* * *

Well, here we go again. Have you already chosen the most suitable method for yourself? Already know how you will plant? Yes!? So you are already a master. Sorry, I didn’t ask you... I was interested in newcomers. They will rack their brains and tense up. I was tense too. Until I realized: I will plant as much as I can on that beautiful day! We'll live and we'll figure it out. In the meantime, relax and take a break. Seriously take a break! Because next is the most terrible chapter.

Nikolay Kurdyumov

From the book: Smart vineyard for everyone. N. Kurdyumov. ID Vladis. Rostov-on-Don. 2005

Other works by Nikolai Ivanovich on the page

Grapes are deciduous vines that weave along supports with the help of tendrils. There are several thousand varieties of cultivated grapes; they all differ in color, taste, degree of resistance to drought, frost and other factors, but they have common basic requirements for growing conditions - they require maximum sunlight and heat.

Grapes are planted mainly as annual seedlings. Before planting, seedlings must first be prepared, since transplanting seedlings is definitely a huge stress for a grape plant. Preparation of grape seedlings is carried out a day or two before planting and it consists of correct pruning of the root system of the grape seedling, soaking in stimulants growth, etc.

Video: Preparing grape seedlings for planting

Subtleties of landing

2 buckets of water are poured into the holes prepared in advance (half filled with nutrient soil mixture), and when the moisture is absorbed, planting can begin. The root system in chernozem soil should be located at a depth of half a meter, in sandy soil it should be buried 60 cm; Such planting will protect the roots from freezing in winter.

The seedlings are placed at an angle of 45°, for which a mound of soil is made and the plant is planted, the roots being directed deeper. Then you need to pour a 10 cm layer of soil and very carefully pull the seedling so that the roots lie in the desired direction. Water again with two buckets of water and pour out the remaining amount of humus, sand and ash. The lower bud should be above ground level.

We pour out the last bucket of water, and it is better to cover the surface of the earth around the planted plants with black film so that the moisture does not evaporate too quickly and weeds do not grow. You can cover the above-ground part with a cut plastic bottle, previously wrapped in white paper, but the shoots should not touch it. Such conditions are ideal for the adaptation period: the bottles will protect the grapes from temperature changes.

It is important to provide the seedlings with enough space so that they do not lack sunlight. You need to leave a distance of 2.5 m between bushes and rows. You also need to know that black varieties require more heat than white ones; this feature should be taken into account when choosing a variety and based on the climatic conditions of your region.

There are enough varieties with early ripening, resistant to cold, pests and diseases, capable of producing an excellent harvest even in a short, cool summer. It is better to purchase the seedlings themselves in nurseries, and for beginning gardeners, also in containers; in this case, they will take root much faster and more painlessly.

For better watering and fertilizing, it is recommended to install a drainage pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more in the planting hole, through which it is much more convenient and efficient to carry out these activities.

Strong trellises made of posts driven into the ground with stretched rows of wire will help to form grape bushes correctly. Growing vines are given the right direction by tying them to a wire. By following these recommendations, there is no doubt that the summer planting of grapes will be successful.

Video: Planting grape seedlings in summer

Preface

Every gardener dreams of having his own vineyard, because the fruits of this plant will not leave anyone indifferent. But many are afraid of difficulties when planting and caring. By well systematizing the information, you can avoid difficulties, so let’s first consider how to plant grape bushes in the summer.

Choosing a place to plant a vineyard in summer

This stage is almost as important as the planting technology, because how well the plant develops, its yield and resistance to diseases depends on whether the right place is chosen. The area must be well lit. So if you plan to plant grapes among trees or next to objects that provide shade, then you should say goodbye to this idea, there will be no sense. This plant is sun-loving, so even if you want to place it next to a fence, house or other obstruction, you should do it on the south side.

In addition, keep in mind that grapes are afraid of cold weather, and especially scorching frosty winds, so make sure that natural obstacles protect the bushes from such undesirable weather conditions. Also, in this regard, you should not choose a site located in a lowland, because cold masses settle there in winter. If you want to make an arch next to the house, then you should step back at least 80 cm from it, otherwise abundant watering of the bushes will negatively affect the condition of the foundation.

The distance between the bushes also matters; it should be about two and a half meters. If you want to plant a vineyard in several rows, then they should also be located at least 2.5 m from each other. Otherwise, the plants will lack sunlight. In principle, there are no special requirements for the soil in terms of structure; absolutely any soil will do - black soil, sandy soil, etc. However, keep in mind that its composition can affect the yield.

Successful landing starts with a hole

Having chosen a suitable place on your plot of land, you can begin preparing the planting hole. After all, it is not enough to simply stick a seedling into the ground; you must first properly prepare the soil, and only then can you count on good development and abundant fruiting of the bush in the future. So we take a bayonet shovel and dig a hole, the dimensions of which are 70x70x70 cm. Moreover, it is best to carry out this operation in the fall, but if for some reason this was not possible, then such preparatory work should be carried out at least a couple of weeks before planting itself .

So, in order to make the soil as favorable as possible in summer for the good development of the bush, it is necessary to fertilize it. To do this, we will need a couple of buckets of sand, because sandy terrain is considered the most suitable for vineyards. You also need 4 buckets of humus and some ash, preferably from vines or fruit trees. So, first we pour out only half of the fertilizers in the following order - humus, sand, a liter jar of ash - and fill it all with two buckets of earth. Then mix everything thoroughly, in the end the hole will only be half full.

Preparing seedlings for planting in summer

Well, if you have a lot of harvested seedlings, you should give preference only to the healthiest and strongest options. This can be determined by appearance. All buds must be large enough and well developed, and their number is also important, at least 5 pieces. The presence of any traces of disease, fungi, rot or other damage is not allowed. So carefully inspect the entire surface for the above defects.

Naturally, in the hot summer we must not forget about the root system of the grapes, because it is through it that all nutrients enter. So we take only those specimens whose roots have at least 3 branches more than 1 mm thick and at least ten centimeters long. But, in addition to such external parameters, their condition also plays a role. It goes without saying that any type of damage is simply unacceptable. They should also be sufficiently elastic and in no case dried out. Otherwise, the plant simply will not take root; planting is meaningless.

So, having chosen the most suitable ones, you should prepare them. First, we lower the roots into a container of water for a couple of days, this will make all the damaged areas more noticeable. Then we remove the extra branches, leaving only the 2 lower nodes intact, and do not forget to refresh (cut off) the ends of the roots we need. In general, their length should not exceed 25 cm. The shoots themselves are also processed, they are pruned into 3–5 buds, and on the remaining part all the stepsons and tendrils are removed, which will take away the already missing energy. If it is still difficult to imagine this stage of work, then we offer a visual video of the preparation of seedlings.

Proper planting of grapes - stages

Now we have reached the most important part. It should be noted that the technology for planting grapes in summer is also presented in the video that we posted in this article. This will allow you to see all our advice. Pour 2 buckets of water into a pre-prepared hole, and only after the liquid has been completely absorbed can you proceed to the next steps. Depending on the type of soil, the root system of the bush should be at a distance of 50–60 cm from the surface.

If the area is sandy, then it is better to place the plant deeper, and in black soil half a meter will be enough. Such planting in summer protects the root system from freezing in winter.

The grape seedling must be placed at an angle of 45°, so we make a small mound out of plain soil and plant the plant in it, making sure that the roots are directed exactly inward. Then, in order to simplify watering, you can make drainage; just insert a piece of plastic pipe so that one end is at the level of the root system, and the other protrudes 10 cm. There is a danger that after watering this pipe will either go underground , or it will clog. To avoid such situations, you should place a piece of hard material, such as slate, under its edge, located in the ground, and sprinkle it with crushed stone. All these tricks can be seen in our video.

Next, we fill in a ten-centimeter layer of soil, and in order for the roots to grow in the right direction, you should pull the seedling a little, but do it carefully and do not overdo it. Then pour out 2 more buckets of water and pour out the remaining fertilizers - humus, sand, ash. In this case, the layer should reach the level of the lower bud.

Having poured out the last bucket of water, we cover the ground around the plant with black film and fix it with bricks, so the moisture will stay in the soil for as long as possible and at the same time this is a weed prevention. And if you hide the above-ground part of the seedling under a plastic bottle wrapped in white paper, you can create an ideal microclimate, since such a device will protect the plant from temperature changes. However, keep in mind that the shoots should not come into contact with the plastic. You can see what your small plantation should look like in the end in the video, and now the planting is complete, all that remains is to master the basics.

PLANTING GRAPES – In order to get a harvest of berries within 3 years, you need to select a variety suitable for your region, plant the plants according to the recommendations and care for them, taking into account the characteristics of this variety.

Grapes are a heat- and light-loving plant, so for planting it it is worth choosing areas that meet these requirements.

Grape bushes are placed on the southern, southwestern and western sides of houses, barns, garages and other buildings. During the day they are heated by the sun, and at night they give off additional heat to the plants. This makes it possible to obtain ripe sweet berries much earlier or to grow some varieties of medium ripening in the northern regions.

Slopes with southern, southwestern and western exposure are considered the best for planting grapes. It is undesirable to plant bushes in the lower part of the slope, where the effect of frost increases. Also, you should not place grapes closer than 3-6 m from the trees (depending on the size of their root system).

WHEN IS IT BETTER TO PLANT GRAPES?

Planting grapes can be done both in spring and autumn. From mid-April to mid-May, annual lignified seedlings are planted, and from the end of May to the end of June, green vegetative ones.

Autumn planting of grapes is done from the beginning of October until the soil freezes. In many ways, it is performed in the same way as in the spring. But the difference is that after planting, the seedling must be protected more carefully before the onset of frost so that it overwinters well. To do this, it is first covered with a cut plastic bottle, in which 3 holes are made. The ground around is watered with 3-4 buckets of water and then loosened.

Before frost, the grape bushes are covered with sawdust, pine needles or peat, filling the planting hole. You can also use regular soil. To do this, the hole is filled in, and an earthen mound up to 30 cm high is made on top.

PREPARATION OF GRAPES SEEDLINGS FOR PLANTING

To plant grapes, you need to take only healthy seedlings. Their root should be white when cut, but not brown, and the annual shoot should be well ripened and have a bright green color when cut. The eyes should not fall off when pressed lightly. Drying seedlings is unacceptable under any circumstances.

Before planting, the grapes are soaked for 12-24 hours in clean water and the annual shoot is cut off, leaving 3-4 eyes. The roots on the upper nodes are removed, and on the lower ones they are only refreshed. At the same time, the upper roots of seedlings grown from shortened cuttings are not removed, but only a refreshing cut is made. For

To prevent fungal diseases, you can treat the growth without wetting the root in a “Dnoka” solution (5 g per 0.8-1 l).

HARDENING OF VEGETATING GRAPES SEEDLINGS

Green vegetative seedlings need to be hardened off before planting, otherwise they will burn from the sun. First, they are kept under a canopy or in the “lace” shade of trees for 4-6 days, and then in direct sunlight for another 8-10 days. For vegetative seedlings that were grown with insufficient lighting and elevated temperatures, the acclimatization period is increased by 1.5 times. Such seedlings are distinguished by elongated shoots with light green leaves; they are completely pampered.

Green seedlings that have not undergone hardening, when planted in early spring (late April - early May) without microgreenhouses, can perceive the more severe conditions of open ground as the onset of autumn. Such seedlings stop growing, the growth begins to become lignified and ripen, and they prepare for winter. Nothing wrong with that. As a rule, in the middle - end of June, and for early ripening varieties - even earlier, such seedlings resume their growth.

HOW TO PLANT GRAPES ON CHERNOZEM AND CLAY

To plant a lignified seedling, dig a hole measuring 80x80x80 cm. At the bottom, make a nutrient “cushion” 25 cm thick. To do this, take 7-10 buckets of humus and fertile soil to the required level. The mixture is compacted, and mineral fertilizers are poured on top (300 g of superphosphate and 300 g of potash fertilizers, you can also add 3 liters of dry wood ash). Then they are mixed with soil to a depth of 5-10 cm and compacted again. Then comes a 5 cm thick layer of fertile soil without fertilizers. As a result, a hole 50 cm deep should remain.

A small mound is made in the center of the hole and, placing a seedling on it (“the heel” should be at a depth of 50 cm), the roots are spread evenly along the cone. Then it is covered with fertile soil without fertilizers until growth occurs. Seedlings from shortened cuttings are installed vertically, and if the length of the seedling is more than 25 cm, then obliquely (“heel” at a depth of 50 cm, the base of the growth at a depth of 25 cm). After planting, the hole should remain 25 cm deep.

After planting, the soil needs to be compacted a little and watered at the rate of 2-3 buckets per bush, depending on the soil moisture. When the top layer dries, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5-10 cm. Then you need to water it 2 more times after 14 days (2-3 buckets per bush). After the third watering, the soil is loosened and mulched. In the future, the pit must be loosened after each watering and heavy rains.

PLANTING GRAPES ON SANDY SOILS

Sandy soil differs from chernozem in that it freezes more strongly in winter and warms up more in summer. At the same time, it retains moisture and nutrients much worse than fertile soil. Therefore, on sand, the planting hole is made deeper - 80x80x105 cm. To retain moisture and reduce the leaching of nutrients, a “castle” of compacted clay 15-20 cm thick is made at the bottom, which will be shaped like a saucer. Next, a layer of nutrient mixture with fertilizers 25 cm thick is poured, similar to the case with chernozem. When fertilizing, potash fertilizers must contain magnesium (300 g of potassium magnesium or 500 g of Ecoplant). The optimal depth for planting seedlings on sand is 60 cm, and the depth of the hole after planting should be at least 30 cm. Watering is carried out three times, 3-4 buckets of water, with an interval of 7-10 days.

PLANTING VEGETATING GRAPES SEEDLINGS

The planting hole is dug in advance and filled in the same way as when planting a lignified seedling. The depth of the hole should be 25 cm on black soil or clay and 30 cm on sand. The planting hole needs to be compacted and watered 2-3 times with 2-4 buckets of water at intervals of 7-10 days so that the soil shrinks.

A week after the last watering, first make a hole under the container with a depth of 55 cm on black soil or clay and 65 cm on sand. The pre-hardened seedling is carefully removed from the container, without destroying the lump of earth, and lowered to the planting depth. The hole is filled with fertile soil, compacted and watered. Then a peg is installed to which the vegetating sprout is attached.

If the seedlings have not undergone acclimatization, at the final stage the plant must be shaded using a screen. To do this, on the south side you need to install several branches of fruit or ornamental trees for a period of 7-10 days, or use plywood or tin.

In the first year, you need to leave only one shoot on the bush, carefully remove the stepsons and tie the plant to a peg.

How to plant grapes in spring

1. Dig a hole measuring 80x80x80 cm on black soil and clay and 80x80x105 cm on sand. Fill it with fertilizers 2-3 weeks before planting and water 3 times.
2. When the soil settles, make a hole under the container 55-65 cm deep from the soil surface.
3. Remove the seedling from the container, being careful not to destroy the earthen ball.
4. Place the stake next to the plant.
5. Fill the hole with fertile soil and water.
6. Shade the unhardened seedling well from the south for 7-10 days.

How to plant grapes in autumn

1. Choose a suitable place to plant grapes.
2. Dig a planting hole for the seedling measuring 80x80x80 cm.
3. Pour fertile soil, humus and mineral fertilizers into it.
4. Mix the fertilizer a little with 5-10 cm of soil and compact it.
5. Pour some more fertile soil into the hole in a 5 cm layer.
6. Make a mound in the center of the hole and place a seedling on it.
7. After this, cover the seedling with soil without fertilizer until it grows.
8. Cover the seedling with a cut plastic bottle.
9. Water the hole with 3-4 buckets of water. Cover the grapes before frost.