Fluorescent lamps are connected in accordance with a slightly more complex circuit compared to their closest “relatives” - incandescent lamps. To ignite fluorescent lamps, starting devices must be included in the circuit, the quality of which directly determines the life of the lamps.

To understand the features of circuits, you must first study the structure and mechanism of action of such devices.

Each of these devices is a sealed flask filled with a special mixture of gases. Moreover, the mixture is designed in such a way that the ionization of gases requires a much smaller amount of energy compared to ordinary incandescent lamps, which makes it noticeable in the lighting.

In order for a fluorescent lamp to continuously produce light, it must maintain a glow discharge. To ensure this, the required voltage is supplied to the electrodes of the light bulb. The main problem is that a discharge can only appear when a voltage is applied that is significantly higher than the operating voltage. However, lamp manufacturers have successfully solved this problem.

Electrodes are installed on both sides of the fluorescent lamp. They accept voltage, thanks to which the discharge is maintained. Each electrode has two contacts. A current source is connected to them, which ensures heating of the space surrounding the electrodes.

Thus, the fluorescent lamp lights up after its electrodes have warmed up. To do this, they are exposed to a high-voltage pulse, and only then the operating voltage comes into effect, the value of which must be sufficient to maintain the discharge.

Luminous flux, lm	LED lamp, W	Contact fluorescent lamp, W	Incandescent lamp, W
50	1	4	20
100		5	25
100-200		6/7	30/35
300	4	8/9	40
400		10	50
500	6	11	60
600	7/8	14	65

Under the influence of a discharge, the gas in the flask begins to emit ultraviolet light, which is imperceptible to the human eye. To make light visible to humans, the inner surface of the bulb is coated with a phosphor. This substance shifts the frequency range of light into the visible spectrum. By changing the composition of the phosphor, the range of color temperatures also changes, thereby providing a wide range of fluorescent lamps.

Fluorescent lamps, unlike simple incandescent lamps, cannot simply be plugged into an electrical network. For an arc to appear, as noted, the electrodes must warm up and a pulse voltage must appear. These conditions are ensured using special ballasts. The most widely used ballasts are electromagnetic and

Prices for fluorescent lamps

Classic connection via electromagnetic ballast

Features of the scheme

In accordance with this circuit, a choke is connected to the circuit. Also, the circuit must include a starter.

Starter for fluorescent lamps - Philips Ecoclick StartersS10 220-240V 4-65W

The latter is a low-power neon light source. The device is equipped with bimetallic contacts and is powered from an electrical network with variable current values. The throttle, starter contacts and electrode threads are connected in series.

Instead of a starter, an ordinary electric bell button can be included in the circuit. In this case, voltage will be supplied by holding the bell button pressed. The button must be released after the lamp is lit.

The operating procedure of the circuit with an electromagnetic type ballast is as follows:

• after being connected to the network, the inductor begins to accumulate electromagnetic energy;
• electricity is supplied through the starter contacts;
• the current rushes through the tungsten heating filaments of the electrodes;
• the electrodes and the starter heat up;
• the starter contacts open;
• the energy accumulated by the throttle is released;
• the voltage on the electrodes changes;
• a fluorescent lamp gives light.

In order to increase the efficiency and reduce interference that occurs when the lamp is turned on, the circuit is equipped with two capacitors. One of them (the smaller one) is located inside the starter. Its main function is to dampen sparks and improve neon impulse.

Among the key advantages of a circuit with an electromagnetic type ballast are:

• time-tested reliability;
• simplicity;
• affordable price.
• As practice shows, there are more disadvantages than advantages. Among them it is necessary to highlight:
• impressive weight of the lighting fixture;
• long lamp on time (on average up to 3 seconds);
• low efficiency of the system when operating in cold conditions;
• relatively high energy consumption;
• noisy throttle operation;
• flickering, which negatively affects vision.

Connection procedure

Connecting the lamp according to the considered scheme is carried out using starters. Next, we will consider an example of installing one lamp with the inclusion of a model S10 starter in the circuit. This state-of-the-art device has a non-flammable body and high-quality construction, making it the best in its niche.

The main tasks of the starter come down to:

• ensuring the lamp is turned on;
• breakdown of the gas gap. To do this, the circuit is broken after a fairly long heating of the lamp electrodes, which leads to the release of a powerful pulse and direct breakdown.

The throttle is used to perform the following tasks:

• limiting the current value at the moment of closing the electrodes;
• generating voltage sufficient for gas breakdown;
• maintaining the discharge combustion at a constant stable level.

In the example under consideration, a 40 W lamp is connected. In this case, the throttle must have the same power. The power of the starter used is 4-65 W.

We connect in accordance with the presented diagram. To do this we do the following.

First step

In parallel, we connect the starter to the pin side contacts at the output of the fluorescent lamp. These contacts represent the leads of the filament of the sealed bulb.

Second step

We connect to the remaining free contacts.

Third step

We connect the capacitor to the supply contacts, again, in parallel. Thanks to the capacitor, reactive power will be compensated and interference in the network will be reduced.

Connection via modern electronic ballast

Features of the scheme

Modern connection option. The circuit includes an electronic ballast - this economical and improved device provides a much longer service life of fluorescent lamps compared to the option discussed above.

In circuits with electronic ballast, fluorescent lamps operate at higher voltages (up to 133 kHz). Thanks to this, the light is smooth and flicker-free.

Modern microcircuits make it possible to assemble specialized starting devices with low power consumption and compact dimensions. This makes it possible to place the ballast directly into the lamp base, which makes it possible to produce small-sized lighting fixtures that are screwed into an ordinary socket, standard for incandescent lamps.

At the same time, the microcircuits not only provide power to the lamps, but also smoothly heat the electrodes, increasing their efficiency and increasing their service life. It is precisely these fluorescent lamps that can be used in combination with devices designed to smoothly regulate the brightness of light bulbs. You cannot connect a dimmer to fluorescent lamps with electromagnetic ballasts.

By design, the electronic ballast is an electrical voltage converter. A miniature inverter transforms direct current into high-frequency and alternating current. It is this that goes to the electrode heaters. As the frequency increases, the heating intensity of the electrodes decreases.

The converter is switched on in such a way that the current frequency is initially at a high level. The fluorescent light bulb is connected to a circuit whose resonant frequency is significantly lower than the initial frequency of the converter.

Next, the frequency begins to gradually decrease, and the voltage on the lamp and the oscillating circuit increases, due to which the circuit approaches resonance. The heating intensity of the electrodes also increases. At some point, conditions are created that are sufficient to create a gas discharge, as a result of which the lamp begins to produce light. The lighting device closes the circuit, the operating mode of which changes.

When using electronic ballasts, the lamp connection diagrams are designed in such a way that the control device has the ability to adapt to the characteristics of the light bulb. For example, after a certain period of use, fluorescent lamps require a higher voltage to create the initial discharge. The ballast will be able to adapt to such changes and provide the necessary quality of lighting.

Thus, among the many advantages of modern electronic ballasts, the following points should be highlighted:

• high operating efficiency;
• gentle heating of the electrodes of the lighting device;
• smooth switching on of the light bulb;
• no flicker;
• possibility of use in low temperature conditions;
• independent adaptation to the characteristics of the lamp;
• high reliability;
• light weight and compact dimensions;
• increasing the service life of lighting devices.

There are only 2 disadvantages:

• complicated connection diagram;
• higher requirements for correct installation and quality of components used.

Prices for electronic ballasts for fluorescent lamps

Electronic ballast for fluorescent lamps

Connection procedure

All necessary connectors and wires are usually included with the electronic ballast. You can see the connection diagram in the presented image. Also, suitable diagrams are given in the instructions for ballasts and lighting fixtures themselves.

In such a scheme, the lamp is switched on in 3 main stages, namely:

• the electrodes warm up, which ensures a more gentle and smooth start-up and preserves the life of the device;
• a powerful impulse is created that is required for ignition;
• the operating voltage value is stabilized, after which voltage is supplied to the lamp.

Modern lamp connection schemes eliminate the need to use a starter. Thanks to this, the risk of ballast burnout in case of starting without a lamp installed is eliminated.

The scheme for connecting two fluorescent light bulbs to one ballast deserves special attention. The devices are connected in series. To complete the work you need to prepare:

• induction throttle;
• two starters;
• directly fluorescent lamps.

Connection sequence

First step. A starter is connected to each light bulb. The connection is parallel. In the example under consideration, we connect the starter to the pin output at both ends of the lighting fixture.

Second step. Free contacts are connected to the electrical network. In this case, the connection is made in series, through a choke.

Third step. Capacitors are connected in parallel to the contacts of the lighting device. They will reduce the severity of interference in the electrical network and compensate for the resulting reactive power.

Important point! In ordinary household switches, this is especially typical for budget models, the contacts can stick under the influence of increased starting currents. In view of this, for use in combination with fluorescent lighting devices, it is recommended to use only high-quality ones specially designed for this purpose.

You have become familiar with the features of different connection diagrams for fluorescent lamps and now you can independently cope with the installation and replacement of such lighting devices.

Good luck!

Video - Connection diagram for fluorescent lamps

The switching circuit for fluorescent lamps is much more complex than that of incandescent lamps.
Their ignition requires the presence of special starting devices, and the life of the lamp depends on the quality of these devices.

To understand how launch systems work, you must first become familiar with the design of the lighting device itself.

A fluorescent lamp is a gas-discharge light source, the luminous flux of which is formed mainly due to the glow of a phosphor layer applied to the inner surface of the bulb.

When the lamp is turned on, an electronic discharge occurs in the mercury vapor that fills the test tube and the resulting UV radiation affects the phosphor coating. With all this, the frequencies of invisible UV radiation (185 and 253.7 nm) are converted into visible light radiation.
These lamps have low energy consumption and are very popular, especially in industrial premises.

Scheme

When connecting fluorescent lamps, a special starting and regulating technique is used - ballasts. There are 2 types of ballasts: electronic - electronic ballast (electronic ballast) and electromagnetic - electromagnetic ballast (starter and choke).

Connection diagram using electromagnetic ballast or electronic ballast (throttle and starter)

A more common connection diagram for a fluorescent lamp is using an electromagnetic amplifier. This starter circuit.

Operating principle: when the power supply is connected, a discharge appears in the starter and
the bimetallic electrodes are short-circuited, after which the current in the circuit of the electrodes and the starter is limited only by the internal resistance of the inductor, as a result of which the operating current in the lamp increases almost three times and the electrodes of the fluorescent lamp instantly heat up.
At the same time, the bimetallic contacts of the starter cool down and the circuit opens.
At the same time, the choke breaks, thanks to self-induction, creates a triggering high-voltage pulse (up to 1 kV), which leads to a discharge in the gas environment and the lamp lights up. After which the voltage on it will become equal to half of the mains voltage, which will not be enough to re-close the starter electrodes.
When the lamp is on, the starter will not participate in the operating circuit and its contacts will and will remain open.

Main disadvantages

• Compared to a circuit with electronic ballast, electricity consumption is 10-15% higher.

• Long start-up of at least 1 to 3 seconds (depending on lamp wear)

• Inoperability at low ambient temperatures. For example, in winter in an unheated garage.

• The stroboscopic result of a flashing lamp, which has a bad effect on vision, and the parts of machine tools rotating synchronously with the mains frequency appear motionless.

• The sound of the throttle plates humming, growing over time.

Switching diagram with two lamps but one choke. It should be noted that the inductance of the inductor must be sufficient for the power of these two lamps.
It should be noted that in a sequential circuit for connecting two lamps, 127 Volt starters are used; they will not work in a single-lamp circuit, which will require 220 Volt starters

This circuit, where, as you can see, there is no starter or throttle, can be used if the filaments of the lamps have burned out. In this case, the LDS can be ignited using step-up transformer T1 and capacitor C1, which will limit the current flowing through the lamp from a 220-volt network.

This circuit is suitable for the same lamps whose filaments have burned out, but here there is no need for a step-up transformer, which clearly simplifies the design of the device

But such a circuit using a diode rectifier bridge eliminates the flickering of the lamp at the mains frequency, which becomes very noticeable as it ages.

or more difficult

If the starter in your lamp has failed or the lamp is constantly blinking (along with the starter if you look closely under the starter housing) and there is nothing at hand to replace it, you can light the lamp without it - enough for 1-2 seconds. short-circuit the starter contacts or install button S2 (caution of dangerous voltage)

the same case, but for a lamp with a burnt-out filament

Connection diagram using electronic ballast or electronic ballast

An electronic ballast (EPG), unlike an electromagnetic one, supplies the lamps with a high-frequency voltage from 25 to 133 kHz rather than the mains frequency. And this completely eliminates the possibility of lamp flickering noticeable to the eye. The electronic ballast uses a self-oscillator circuit, which includes a transformer and an output stage using transistors.

Thanks to the miniature size of LEDs, engineers have learned to create lamps of a wide variety of designs, including repeating the shape of fluorescent and halogen lamps. Tubular fluorescent lamps of the T8 type with a G13 socket were no exception. They can be easily replaced with a similar-shaped tube with LEDs, significantly improving the optical-energy characteristics of the existing lamp.

Is it necessary to change fluorescent light bulbs to LED lamps?

Today we can confidently say that LED light bulbs of any form factor are superior to their fluorescent counterparts in almost all respects. Moreover, LED technologies continue to progress, which means that products based on them will be even more advanced in the future. To confirm the above, a comparative description of two types of tubular lamps is given below.

T8 fluorescent lamps:

• MTBF is about 2000 hours and depends on the number of starts, but not more than 2000 cycles;
• light spreads in all directions, which is why they need a reflector;
• gradual increase in brightness at the moment of switching on;
• the ballast (ballast) serves as a source of network interference;
• degradation of the protective layer with a decrease in luminous flux by 30%;
• The glass flask and the mercury vapor inside it require careful handling and disposal.

T8 LED lamps:

service life is at least 10 thousand hours and does not depend on the on/off frequency;

have a directional luminous flux;

instantly turns on at full brightness;

the driver does not affect the power grid;

loss of brightness does not exceed 10% over 10 thousand hours;

have significantly lower power consumption;

completely environmentally friendly.

In addition, T8 LED lamps have twice the light output with equal energy consumption, are less likely to fail and have a manufacturer’s warranty. The ability to place different numbers of LEDs inside the bulb allows you to achieve an optimal level of illumination. This means that instead of a T8-G13-600 mm 18 W fluorescent lamp, you can install a 9, 18 or 24 W LED lamp of the same length.

The abbreviation T8 indicates the diameter of the glass tube (8/8 inch or 2.54 cm), and G13 is the type of cap indicating the pin spacing in mm.

Having weighed all the pros and cons, we can conclude that converting a fluorescent lamp to an LED light bulb is completely justified, both from a technical and economic point of view.

Connection diagrams

Before moving on to upgrading the lamp by replacing T8 fluorescent lamps with LED lamps, you first need to properly understand the circuits. All fluorescent lamps are connected in one of two ways:

based on ballasts, which include a choke, starter and capacitor (Fig. 1);

based on electronic ballast (EPG), which consists of one block - a high-frequency converter (Fig. 2).

In raster ceiling lamps, 4 fluorescent tubes are connected to 2 electronic ballasts, each of which provides operation of two lamps, or to a combined ballast, including 4 starters, 2 chokes and 1 capacitor.

The connection diagram for the T8 LED lamp does not contain any additional elements (Fig. 3). A stabilized power supply (driver) for LEDs is already built inside the case. Along with it, under a glass or plastic diffuser, there is a printed circuit board with LEDs, mounted on an aluminum radiator. The 220V supply voltage can be supplied to the driver through the pins of the base, either on one side (usually on Ukrainian-made products) or on both sides. In the first case, the pins located on the other side serve as fasteners. In the second case, 1 or 2 pins can be used on each side. Therefore, before modifying the lamp, you need to carefully study the connection diagram shown on the LED lamp body or in its documentation. The most common are T8 LED lamps with phase and neutral connections from different sides, so alteration of the lamp will be considered based on this option.

What needs to be changed?

By carefully looking at the diagrams, even an inexperienced electrician will understand how to connect an LED lamp instead of a fluorescent one. In a luminaire with ballasts, you need to perform the following steps:

1. Turn off the circuit breaker and make sure there is no voltage.
2. Remove the protective cover, gaining access to the circuit elements.
3. Remove the capacitor, inductor, and starter from the electrical circuit.
4. Separate the wires going to the cartridge terminals and connect them directly to the phase and neutral wires.
5. The remaining wires can be removed or insulated.
6. Insert a T8 G13 lamp with LEDs and perform a test run.

The contacts in the form of pins for connecting the T8 LED lamp are marked on its base with the symbols “L” and “N”.

Converting a fluorescent lamp with electronic ballast is even easier. To do this, just unsolder or cut with wire cutters the wires going to and from the ballast. Then connect the phase and neutral wires to the wires of the left and right sockets of the lamp. Insulate the connection point, insert an LED lamp and apply supply voltage.

It is much easier to install and connect a T8 LED lamp in Philips branded lamps. The Dutch company has made the task as simple as possible for its consumers. To install an LED lamp with a length of 600 mm, 900 mm, 1200 mm or 1500 mm, you will need to unscrew the starter and screw in the plug supplied in the kit in its place. In this case, there is no need to disassemble the lamp body and remove the choke.

When choosing a T8 G13 LED lamp, you should pay attention to the design of the base. It can be rotary or have a rigid connection to the body. Models with a rotating base are considered to be the most universal. They can be screwed into any converted light fixture, with either vertical or horizontal slots in the socket. And by adjusting the angle of the lamp, you can change the direction of the light flux.

It is not uncommon to find negative reviews on the Internet that the service life of T8 LED lamps is much less than stated. As a rule, such comments are left by people who bought a Chinese “no name” for the price of a fluorescent lamp. Naturally, the quality of the LEDs and drivers will not allow it to work even for one year.

Read also

If an old Soviet lamp with fluorescent fluorescent lamps such as LB-40, LB-80 is out of order, or you are tired of changing the starter in it, recycling the lamps themselves (and you can’t just throw them in the trash for a long time), then you can easily convert to LED.

The most important thing is that fluorescent and LED lamps have the same bases - G13. Unlike other types of pin contacts, no modifications to the housing are required.

• G- means pins are used as contacts

• 13 is the distance in millimeters between these pins

Benefits of remodeling

In this case you will receive:

• greater illumination

• lower losses (almost half of the useful energy in fluorescent lamps can be lost in the choke)

• absence of vibration and unpleasant rattling sound from the ballast throttle

True, more modern models already use electronic ballast. They have increased efficiency (90% or more), noise has disappeared, but energy consumption and luminous flux have remained at the same level.

For example, new models of such LPO and LVO are often used for Armstrong ceilings. Here is a rough comparison of their effectiveness:

Another advantage of LEDs is that there are models designed for supply voltages from 85V to 265V. For fluorescent you need 220V or close to it.

For such LEDs, even if your network voltage is low or too high, they will start and shine without any complaints.

Luminaires with electromagnetic ballasts

What should you pay attention to when converting simple fluorescent lamps to LED lamps? First of all, its design.

If you have a simple old Soviet-style lamp with starters and an ordinary (not electronic ballast) choke, then in fact there is no need to modernize anything.

Simply pull out the starter, select a new LED lamp to fit the overall size, insert it into the housing and enjoy brighter and more economical lighting.

If the starter is not removed from the circuit, then when replacing the LB lamp with an LED one, a short circuit can be created.

It is not necessary to dismantle the throttle. For an LED, the current consumption will be in the range of 0.12A-0.16A, and for a ballast, the operating current in such old lamps is 0.37A-0.43A, depending on the power. In fact, it will act as an ordinary jumper.

After all the rework, you still have the same lamp. There is no need to change the fixture on the ceiling, and you no longer have to dispose of burnt lamps and look for special containers for them.

Such lamps do not require separate drivers and power supplies, since they are already built-in inside the housing.

The main thing is to remember the main feature - for LEDs, two pin contacts on the base are rigidly connected to each other.

And with fluorescent they are connected by a filament. When it gets hot, mercury vapor ignites.

In models with electronic ballasts, a filament is not used and the gap between the contacts is pierced by a high voltage pulse.

The most common sizes of such tubes are:

• 300mm (used in table lamps)

• 900mm and 1200mm

The longer they are, the brighter the glow.

Conversion of a lamp with electronic ballast

If you have a more modern model, without a starter, with an electronic ballast throttle (electronic ballast), then you will have to tinker a little with changing the circuit.

What is inside the lamp before alteration:

• throttle

• wires

• contact blocks-cartridges on the sides of the case

The throttle is what will need to be thrown out first. Without it, the entire structure will significantly lose weight. Unscrew the mounting screws or drill out the rivets, depending on the fastener.

Then disconnect the power wires. To do this, you may need a screwdriver with a narrow blade.

You can use these wirings and just eat them with pliers.

The connection diagram for the two lamps is different; with the LED lamp everything is much simpler:

The main task that needs to be solved is to supply 220V to different ends of the lamp. That is, the phase is on one terminal (for example, the right one), and the zero is on the other (left).

It was said earlier that an LED lamp has both pin contacts inside the base, connected to each other by a jumper. Therefore, here it is impossible, as in a fluorescent one, to supply 220V between them.

To verify this, use a multimeter. Set it to resistance measurement mode, and touch the two terminals with the measuring probes and take measurements.

The display should display the same values ​​as when the probes are connected to each other, i.e. zero or close to it (taking into account the resistance of the probes themselves).

A fluorescent lamp, between two terminals on each side, has a resistance filament, which, after applying a voltage of 220V through it, heats up and “starts” the lamp.

• without dismantling cartridges

• with dismantling and installing jumpers through their contacts

Without dismantling

The easiest way is without dismantling, but you will have to buy a couple of Wago clamps.
In general, bite out all the wires suitable for the cartridge at a distance of 10-15mm or more. Next, insert them into the same Vago clamp.

Do the same with the other side of the lamp. If the wago terminal block does not have enough contacts, you will have to use 2 pieces.

After this, all that remains is to feed a phase into the clamp on one side and zero on the other.

No Vago, just twist the wires under the PPE cap. With this method, you do not need to deal with the existing circuit, jumpers, get into the cartridge contacts, etc.

With dismantling the cartridges and installing jumpers

The other method is more scrupulous, but does not require any extra costs.

Remove the side covers from the lamp. This must be done carefully, because... In modern products, the latches are made of brittle and breakable plastic.

After which, you can dismantle the contact cartridges. Inside them there are two contacts that are isolated from each other.

Such cartridges can be of several varieties:

All of them are equally suitable for lamps with G13 socket. There may be springs inside them.

First of all, they are needed not for better contact, but to ensure that the lamp does not fall out of it. Plus, due to the springs, there is some compensation for the length. Since it is not always possible to produce identical lamps with millimeter accuracy.

Each cartridge has two power cables. Most often, they are attached by snapping into special contacts without screws.

You turn them clockwise and counterclockwise, and with some force, pull one of them out.

As mentioned above, the contacts inside the connector are isolated from each other. And by dismantling one of the wiring, you actually leave only one contact socket.

All current will now flow through the other contact. Of course, everything will work on one, but if you are making a lamp for yourself, it makes sense to improve the design a little by installing a jumper.

Thanks to it, you don’t have to make contact by turning the LED lamp from side to side. The double connector ensures a reliable connection.

The jumper can be made from the extra power wires of the lamp itself, which you will definitely have left over as a result of the rework.

Using a tester, you check that after installing the jumper, there is a circuit between the previously isolated connectors. Do the same with the second plug-in contact on the other side of the lamp.

The main thing is to make sure that the remaining power wire is no longer phase, but zero. You bite off the rest.

Fluorescent lamps with two, four or more lamps

If you have a two-lamp lamp, it is best to supply voltage to each connector with separate conductors.

When installing a simple jumper between two or more cartridges, the design will have a significant drawback.

The second lamp will light only if the first one is installed in its place. Remove it, and the other one will go out immediately.

The supply conductors should converge on the terminal block, where you will have the following connected in turn:

Thanks to economical power consumption, safety and high service life, LEDs are now confidently replacing many traditional light sources. In particular, T8-type fluorescent lamps have begun to be replaced everywhere with LED analogues.

Often it is not necessary to replace the entire lamp, but to simply install LED lamps in existing ones. And to make this process as simple as possible, manufacturers of LED lamps make them with the same base (G13), and the dimensions completely match the dimensions of fluorescent lamps (D=26mm L=600mm / 900mm / 1200mm / 1500mm / 2400mm). All that remains is to slightly modernize the electrical circuit and you can install LED tubes.

Let's take a closer look at the features of installing T8 LED tubes (lamps) in luminaires for fluorescent lamps.

Depending on the type of LED lamp, there are two options for installing lamps:

• With connection for AC 220V lamps (suitable for any original ballast).
• With connection of AC 110V lamps (suitable only for lamps with electronic ballasts).

Note!

1. When installing several lamps in one luminaire, use a parallel connection. Serial connection is not allowed, because this leads to voltage surges and damage to the lamp driver.
2. Replacement work must be carried out by qualified personnel in accordance with safety standards and requirements.

1. Connecting lamps to AC 220V :
The first option requires direct power supply of the lamps from a 50 Hz 220 V mains. In this case, you must first remove all the elements of the ballasts: the electronic unit or the elements of the electromagnetic ballast (starter, choke, etc.). The power consumption of the lamp will be the sum of the total power of the LED lamps.
Procedure:

1. Remove fluorescent lamps.
2. Remove the old electronic circuit: a) remove the electronic control gear unit; b) remove the starters and remove the ballast from the electrical circuit, disconnect the capacitor, if any.
3. Insert LED bulbs.
4. Turn on the power.

Connection diagram for direct 220V LED lamp

After removing the ballasts, the lamps should look something like the photo below (the lamp was converted into two lamps 1200 mm long). Use terminals to connect contacts.

Fluorescent lamp type Arctica 2x36 1200mm disassembled from the back side after removing all the ballast elements for connecting 220V LED lamps.

2. Connecting lamps to AC 110V :

The second option implies that the electromagnetic ballast remains in the circuit, only the starter is removed, such LED lamps are designed to supply a voltage of 110 V. With this connection, the power consumption of the lamp is the sum of the total power of the LED lamps and the power consumed by the remaining ballast. In this option, more electricity will be consumed than in the first, which means the saving effect will be less. In addition, it is necessary to first determine exactly what type of ballast is installed in the luminaires.

Procedure:

1. De-energize the lamp to avoid electric shock.
2. Remove fluorescent lamps.
3. Remove the starters, leave the ballast (or replace the starters with special ones for LED lamps).
4. Insert LED Bulbs
5. Turn on the power.

Swivel base. What else you should pay attention to:

Lamps have sockets installed in different ways: horizontally, vertically, and sometimes at an angle. Since fluorescent lamps shine 360°, it does not matter for them how to install the lamp in the socket. But LED lamps have a directional luminous flux, so you should pay attention to the location of the slot for the socket in the lamp base, otherwise it may turn out that the LED lamp shines sideways rather than downwards. The most universal in this case is the swivel base: it fits any lamps.

LED lamp sockets: a) non-rotating b) rotating.

We hope that our instructions helped you choose and connect LED lamps correctly, and now you take full advantage of all the advantages of modern LED lighting.