I asked a specific question about what to do with the details? It is clear that the parts are placed on the board on one side, and all connections occur on the other side (it seems logical, but how?). There are ready-made boards for wrap-around installation, but they are very expensive.
In this article I will show my solution for how to wire-frame prototyping on a board that I made myself in just a couple of hours.
First difficult steps
At the end of the first part I talked about practical application and the problems I encountered. Now I am developing a synthesizer project on FPGA and am in the process of constant experiments, so the circuitry is constantly changing. Reconnections are constantly required. If inside the FPGA it is enough to transfer signals to other pins, then on the board everything does not happen so quickly. It was in order to increase the speed of changing the circuit, its reliability and resistance to repeated alterations, that I took up installation by wrapping. But not everything is so smooth.
My project consists of two boards: a board on which the FPGA chip is located and an expansion board for it - a synthesizer. The boards are connected via a 40-pin connector using a ribbon cable. Then I made the entire circuit on the expansion board surface-mounted. That is, the wires were soldered directly to the connector pins. And in order to switch to wire-wrap installation, I need to bring these 40 lines to the side of the board where the pins will be. There, for example, I output, say, 8 resistors of 10 KOhm each. I do as I decided earlier. I insert the stands into the board. I solder radio elements to the racks on top. In the case of the connector, I had to solder the wires. Everything turned out very badly: it took a long time, it was not reliable, it was not convenient, it was not beautiful. In addition, the racks were very poorly tinned and it was very difficult to solder to them.
On top are pins for switching to Wire Wrap. There is a connector under them. And 20 bagels - wire. Below are 8 resistors soldered to the posts
The same - on the other side: the top row is the connector posts, below are two rows of posts to which resistors are soldered
Having spent 3 hours and done only half the work on just the connector, and somehow soldered 8 resistors, I went to bed with sad thoughts.
There were two thoughts:
1) I am not installing the elements correctly
2) something needs to be done about the fact that the racks are not tinned well
And before going to bed, I had an epiphany!
Board concept
Ready-made Wire Wrap boards are usually made using this principle.
On one side the elements are installed
On the other hand, it all comes out as pins
Long pins. And besides the pins, there is nothing at all on the other side.
And why don't I do that? Why do I thread the racks through, do not secure them in any way, and solder the radio elements onto the racks?
This is nonsense! The radio elements must be soldered onto the breadboard as usual, and the pins must be brought out to the other side, where there are no copper conductors!
All that remains is to solve the problem with tinning. The issue was resolved with the help of F38N flux. I don’t even understand how I lived before without him!
Let's do it!
We take curved Chinese boards:
Soldering iron (I have a 12-volt car one with a charger from the same place), a third hand, my favorite solder is POS-61 1.5 mm two meters, and the discovery of this fall is F38N, there is also a thin tube into which I took acid and applied it to racks.
We saw off the excess from the board, sand it, and degrease it. We tin the racks. We install it on the board and solder it. Thanks to the flux and POS-61 in the coil, soldering was a pleasure! Fast and beautiful.
At the end of the board I make two strips of 20 each from racks. This is a connector for connecting to the FPGA board. There are also two wires - power supply.
The rest of the installation on the board serves solely for prototyping the circuit I need.
From the outside printed wiring We will solder discrete elements: microcircuits, resistors, capacitors and connect them there to one of the racks. Better yet, solder the sockets and quickly insert all the elements into them
And on the other hand, connect the elements by wrapping (the two lines on the right are power supply).
IMPORTANT POINT!
When switching to installation by wrapping, you need to switch your thinking a little and start doing installation by wrapping. Avoid surface mounting and, if possible, soldering. I couldn't do it the first time. And now, when I made a new board, I almost started making the same mistakes again. Here's an example: you need to transfer all 40 lines from the input connector to the first line of racks. What am I going to do? Certainly! Solder the wire from the connector to the first line. But this is a mistake. There is no need to do this. In general, there is no need to re-roll all 40 lines. You only need those that are required in this scheme (1) . And instead of soldering, we can use wire-wrap installation. The stands are large, after installing the cable there is enough space under it to wind the wire (2).
(A few days later).
This is what the board looks like now. During these days she changed several times, but all the changes were easy and quick.
View from the installation side:
View from the installation side of the elements (sorry it’s so colorful):
Conclusion. This layout method suits me and I will use it in the future. Try it!
When developing a new design, it does not make sense to immediately carry out installation on a printed circuit board - it is enough to assemble all the parts into a temporary circuit, conduct tests and make changes on the fly.
In this matter, the development board, which is described in this article, provides invaluable assistance.
Types of development boards
Exists a large number of types of breadboards (or circuit boards), but they are all divided into two groups:
Solderless breadboards;
Breadboards for soldering.
There are more interesting option– boards for installation by wrapping. However, this method is not very common today and we will not talk about it.
The design of this type of breadboard is simple. Its basis is a plastic case with a large number of holes on the top plane. The holes contain contact connectors for installing parts. The connectors allow the installation of contacts and wires with a diameter of up to 0.7 mm, the distance between them is standard 2.54 mm, which allows the installation of transistors and microcircuits in DIP packages.
The connectors are connected to each other in a special way - in vertical rows of 5 pieces, and many boards also have dedicated power buses - in them, the connectors are connected along the entire length of the board (horizontally), and are marked with blue (-) and red (+) lines. Physically, connectors and buses are made in the form of metal contacts inserted with reverse side boards, and covered with a protective sticker.
There are solderless breadboards different sizes– from 105 to 2500 or more contact points. For convenience, a coordinate grid can be applied to the board. Many boards are designed like a construction kit - several pieces can be assembled into one large board, which allows you to prototype designs in modules.
Printed breadboards
Such boards are designed similarly to printed circuit boards, but with the only difference: the prototyping board contains either a grid of holes with a distance of 2.54 mm (with or without contact pads), or a standard pattern (for example, for prototyping devices on microcircuits), or both another at once. Moreover, there are single-sided and double-sided boards.
Printed and solderless breadboard: how to use?
Installation on a breadboard without soldering comes down to installing parts into connectors and connecting them with jumpers (special or homemade). It should be remembered that the connectors in the lines are connected and an error can lead to a short circuit.
There is no need to explain how to use a breadboard for soldering: just insert the parts into the holes and solder them to each other and to the jumpers. But soldering should be done carefully, since frequent overheating causes the contact pads and traces to peel off from the board.
Which development board should I choose?
The easiest to use is a solderless board, which is why it is very popular today, and even novice radio amateurs know how to work with a solderless breadboard. In addition, the boards are durable and very reliable. Printed circuit boards are more difficult to work with because they require soldering, but they have important advantage: It can be used to prototype the final version of the installation on a permanent printed circuit board.
Therefore, it would be a good idea to have both types of breadboards and use them depending on the situation. Oh yes, you can buy breadboards.
From n/a Vladimir Vasiliev
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While creating various devices have to face a number of problems. During testing, you often have to solder, and if there is an error in the circuit, you have to re-solder. Radio amateurs, when designing circuits, are forced to rely on the “poke method”. This is what breadboards are used for. Assembling a circuit on a breadboard is a necessary stage in the manufacture of simple amateur radio structures or components. Development boards allow you to quickly install different devices using wire jumpers and the patches themselves.But it’s very expensive to buy ready-made ones in the store. After all, a piece of a breadboard with holes costs as much as a piece of large fiberglass. For example, a 10x10 cm board in a well-known online store costs almost 10 euros! I suggest you make my version of a breadboard for preliminary assembly and testing of circuits. It is easy to manufacture and convenient to use.
See photo of the finished breadboard.
The patches of the board are made of ordinary push pins with tinned caps.
Stages of making a breadboard with your own hands:
1. Cut a piece of board to a size that suits you;
2. Mark the board with 1.5 mm squares, since the size of the button head is 10 mm.
3. Hammer the buttons into the board where the transverse and longitudinal marking lines intersect.
4. Then take sandpaper and clean the caps;
5. And finally, tin the caps.
In the last article we looked at the technology of installation by wrapping. But practice is the criterion of truth. In addition, DIHALT asked a specific question about what to do with the details? It is clear that the parts are placed on the board on one side, and all connections occur on the other side (it seems logical, but how?). There are ready-made boards for wrap-around installation, but they are very expensive.In this article I will show my solution for how to wire-frame prototyping on a board that I made myself in just a couple of hours.
First difficult steps
At the end of the first part, I talked about the practical application and problems I encountered. Now I am developing a synthesizer project on FPGA and am in the process of constant experiments, so the circuitry is constantly changing. Reconnections are constantly required. If inside the FPGA it is enough to transfer signals to other pins, then on the board everything does not happen so quickly. It was in order to increase the speed of changing the circuit, its reliability and resistance to repeated alterations, that I took up installation by wrapping. But not everything is so smooth.My project consists of two boards: a board on which the FPGA chip is located and an expansion board for it - a synthesizer. The boards are connected via a 40-pin connector using a ribbon cable. Then I made the entire circuit on the expansion board surface-mounted. That is, the wires were soldered directly to the connector pins. And in order to switch to wire-wrap installation, I need to bring these 40 lines to the side of the board where the pins will be. There, for example, I output, say, 8 resistors of 10 KOhm each. I do as I decided earlier. I insert the stands into the board. I solder radio elements to the racks on top. In the case of the connector, I had to solder the wires. Everything turned out very badly: it took a long time, it was not reliable, it was not convenient, it was not beautiful. In addition, the racks were very poorly tinned and it was very difficult to solder to them.
On top are pins for switching to Wire Wrap. There is a connector under them. And 20 bagels - wire. Below are 8 resistors soldered to the posts
The same - on the other side: the top row is the connector posts, below are two rows of posts to which resistors are soldered
Having spent 3 hours and done only half the work on just the connector, and somehow soldered 8 resistors, I went to bed with sad thoughts.
There were two thoughts:
1) I am not installing the elements correctly
2) something needs to be done about the fact that the racks are not tinned well
And before going to bed, I had an epiphany!
Board concept
Ready-made Wire Wrap boards are usually made using this principle.On one side the elements are installed
On the other hand, it all comes out as pins
Long pins. And besides the pins, there is nothing at all on the other side.
And why don't I do that? Why do I thread the racks through, do not secure them in any way, and solder the radio elements onto the racks?
This is nonsense! The radio elements must be soldered onto the breadboard as usual, and the pins must be brought out to the other side, where there are no copper conductors!
All that remains is to solve the problem with tinning. The issue was resolved with the help of F38N flux. I don’t even understand how I lived before without him!
Let's do it!
We take curved Chinese boards:
Soldering iron (I have a 12-volt car one with a charger from the same place), a third hand, my favorite solder is POS-61 1.5 mm two meters, and the discovery of this fall is F38N, there is also a thin tube into which I took acid and applied it to racks.
We saw off the excess from the board, sand it, and degrease it. We tin the racks. We install it on the board and solder it. Thanks to the flux and POS-61 in the coil, soldering was a pleasure! Fast and beautiful.
At the end of the board I make two strips of 20 each from racks. This is a connector for connecting to the FPGA board. There are also two wires - power supply.
The rest of the installation on the board serves solely for prototyping the circuit I need.
From the printed circuit board side we will solder discrete elements: microcircuits, resistors, capacitors and connect them there to one of the racks. Better yet, solder the sockets and quickly insert all the elements into them
And on the other hand, connect the elements by wrapping (the two lines on the right are power supply).
IMPORTANT POINT!
When switching to installation by wrapping, you need to switch your thinking a little and start doing installation by wrapping. Avoid surface mounting and, if possible, soldering. I couldn't do it the first time. And now, when I made a new board, I almost started making the same mistakes again. Here's an example: you need to transfer all 40 lines from the input connector to the first line of racks. What am I going to do? Certainly! Solder the wire from the connector to the first line. But this is a mistake. There is no need to do this. In general, there is no need to re-roll all 40 lines. You only need those that are required in this scheme (1) . And instead of soldering, we can use wire-wrap installation. The stands are large, after installing the cable there is enough space under it to wind the wire (2).(A few days later).
This is what the board looks like now. During these days she changed several times, but all the changes were easy and quick.
View from the installation side:
View from the installation side of the elements (sorry it’s so colorful):
Conclusion. This layout method suits me and I will use it in the future. Try it!
Hello everyone. Today we will talk about a breadboard. Radio amateurs will understand without any questions, since almost everyone went through crafts on breadboards at the beginning of their development. For the rest, a little more detail. A development board is needed for temporary installation of radio components during debugging electronic circuits and solving problems that arise during the manufacturing stage of the device.
In the days of my youth and total shortages, breadboards were made independently from a piece of foil getinax or fiberglass, drawing out the copper coating into a square with a cutter, so that there would be many pads to which contacts of radio components could be soldered according to the diagram. This was justified, since making the board yourself was quite labor-intensive. It even happened that homemade products remained in their original form on the breadboard, since no one inside the case could see how clumsily everything was made, but the circuit worked and the original goal was achieved. Saving time and resources is obvious.
A homemade breadboard often looked like this: 
But time passed, progress did not stand still. As skills grew, the circuits became more complex, the number of pins and soldering points increased proportionally, and homemade breadboards (breadboards) no longer completely solved the problem. This is where industrial breadboards began to appear, or rather they existed before, but were not available to everyone. And if for the guys from the radio club at first making a radio receiver or color music was an achievement, then later circuits with digital logic became even more difficult to implement. After all, we had to drill a lot of small holes and paint the conductors with nail polish, and finally etch in copper sulfate. And if errors were made during manufacturing, then appearance the boards were rapidly descending into something terrible.
This is also a development board, but industrially manufactured: 
In the abundance of wires one can guess some kind of Spectrum clone.
At the moment, electronics engineers have access to various modern technologies manufacturing of circuit boards, including orders of small series at factories for a relatively low price. But breadboards in any case occupy their niche and sooner or later they have to be used.
Order and delivery
In general, I didn’t really need a breadboard (hereinafter referred to as a breadboard), since I do not manufacture electronics professionally and exclusively for myself. But when I saw it on sale by chance, I decided to order it. The board was ordered in November last year, it arrived in a simple package without bubbles, in about a month. There was nothing inside except the board itself. There was no damage given the fragility of the getinax.
It looks like this: 
The color of copper foil is pleasant, almost natural. The breadboard tracks are coated with a protective compound resembling a weak solution of rosin in alcohol. At least when soldering, the amount of smoke is minimal and there are no traces of burnt rosin.
The dimensions are stated to be 9x15 cm, in fact they are, the thickness is 1 mm, which in my opinion is not enough considering the properties of the material. The foil layer has a thickness of approximately 20 microns. 
last date of verification =)
My micrometer has not been checked for 31 years, so the readings are conditional. In production, the minimum foil thickness is 18 microns, which corresponds to the cheapest option.
There are 30 rows of 48 holes on the board, which ultimately gives 1440. The latter are squeezed out during the formation of the board. Drilling such a number of holes is not economically feasible. The diameter of the holes is 1 mm. Unfortunately, parts with pins of 0.7 and 0.8 mm have to be fixed during soldering, otherwise they tend to fall out.
Octagon-shaped contact pads size 2 mm. There is no metallization in the holes. Since the life of the board is minimal and the price with metallization will be unreasonably high.
Getinax breadboard base
Getinax is an electrically insulating layered pressed material having paper base, impregnated with phenolic or epoxy resin.
Mainly used as a base for blanks printed circuit boards. The material has low mechanical strength, is easy to process and has a relatively low cost. Widely used for cheaply made boards in low-voltage household equipment, since in a heated state it can be stamped, resulting in a board of any shape along with all the holes.
I immediately remember boards from TVs. Due to their low resistance to mechanical and thermal loads, boards based on getinax are less maintainable and in some cases have even been sources of fire...
Trial application:
These are the ingredients I use
For soldering 
Solder with rosin inside, natural rosin, soldering iron 25 W, tip temperature approximately 330-350 degrees without adjustment.
And for cutting, a defort engraver + a set of Chinese cutters 
The cutters are of course terrible in terms of quality, I bought them at New Year at JD, couldn't resist.
There was a reason to assemble a power supply for a +5V +12V-12V signal generator. At first I wanted to remake the mobile phone charger by home-winding the windings, but I couldn’t find one with a normal gap for the wires. Therefore, the choice fell on the breadboard.
A transformer of an unknown type played a cruel joke on me - since the pitch of the holes on the board is 2.54 mm - inch, I had to re-drill the holes in place. The board is drilled easily, and even a blunt drill does not particularly slow down the drilling process, although it knocks out pieces of the board from the back side.
Several photos of the finished power supply. This is exactly the case when I decided not to make the board.
The 7912 stabilizer played a cruel joke on me - the pinout does not match the 7812. Because of this, I burned the KTS407 diode bridge. Having realized my mistake, I re-soldered. One fell off when resoldering. contact pad. So the quality of the board is to mock it up a couple of times and switch to a new one.
The contact pads were tinned with virtually no rosin, just the amount that was in the solder.
No matter how much I tried, I couldn’t make a drop on the contact; the solder always trails behind the soldering iron. Perhaps the temperature is not enough.
I'm trying to cut it off
It seems that the speed is high, but the getinax crumbles. However, the dust is not as harmful as that of fiberglass.
Why did I buy this particular breadboard and not more advanced ones - for rare use and I wouldn’t mind throwing it away. I practically don’t use metallization. A solderless breadboard was also purchased, but is currently unused. Compared to the one under review, it has a disadvantage - it requires leads of the required length and molded ones. And since I have huge stocks of old and used parts (I scold myself to constantly throw everything away), soldering is the only correct option.
Conclusions: budget layout. If you don't have a couple in stock, you can have them.
Where is the cat?
I'm planning to buy +13 Add to favorites I liked the review +24 +39