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Many gardeners have problems with their harvest. They apply fertilizers to the soil on time, weed the garden to remove weeds, water it, loosen the soil, but the plants still grow poorly. Of great importance for proper development garden crops has a degree of soil acidity. We will talk further about how to determine soil acidity at home.

Micronutrients entering the soil, after chemical reactions, are converted into ions that are actively absorbed by plants. The more hydrogen ions left after the reactions, the more acidic the soil. In an acidic environment most garden crops cannot develop and feed freely.

In acidic soil, slightly soluble salts dissolve well and the content of metals increases. Because of this, plants are poisoned, harmful substances accumulate in them, which prevent the supply of useful elements.

How to determine acidity at home

To indicate the measure of hydrogen activity and the degree of acidity, it is customary to use the pH value.

pH 7.0 is a neutral environment in the soil. This indicator corresponds to clean water. If the pH value is below 7.0, the soil becomes acidic; above it, it becomes alkaline.

Acidity depends on natural conditions and on the results of human activity. An acidic environment is typical for regions with a humid climate, an alkaline environment is characteristic for places with dry weather.

Perhaps every gardener is concerned about the proper development of his crops. Therefore, the acidity of the soil can be determined independently.

Using a special device

Find out acidity using special device- The easiest way. First you need to make a hole in the ground, after clearing it of foreign objects (stones, branches, grass). Then pour clean distilled water into it, since only it has a neutral environment.

As soon as the water reacts with the ground and becomes dirty, you should lower the meter probe into the water for 1 minute. After this, the device will display the acidity value.

Do not touch the probe of the device or the water in the hole with your hands. Otherwise the result will be unreliable.

By plants on the site

On acidic soil Cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, eggplants, pumpkins, potatoes, sea buckthorn, currants, gooseberries, lemongrass, roses, geraniums, peonies, daffodils, and tulips grow well.

In soil with a neutral environment Cabbage, beans, peas, carrots, beets, radishes, celery, parsley, apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, raspberries feel great, garden strawberries, dahlias, irises.

To plants that prefer alkaline soil may include: dogwood, barberry, hawthorn, arnica, lilac, juniper, cedar, quince, crimson, apricot, mulberry, edelweiss, lavender.

Beans grow well in neutral soil

By the weeds

They prefer to grow in an acidic environment: sedge, Ivan da Marya, fern, plantain, horse sorrel, horsetail, wild rosemary, mint, heather, cornflower, cinquefoil, tricolor violet, dandelion, clover, chamomile.

The neutral environment attracts adonis, thistle, field bindweed, nettle, quinoa, red clover, shepherd's purse.

If nettles grow in the garden, this means that the soil contains a large number of nutrient organic elements.

Chicory, spotted spurge, thyme, sage, bergenia, thistle, and mustard grow in alkaline soil.

Spurge prefers alkaline soil

Using chalk

Two full tablespoons of soil from the site should be placed in a bottle. Then pour five tablespoons into it warm water and a teaspoon of chalk, previously ground into powder. Place a rubber fingertip on the bottle, removing the air from it. After this you should shake it vigorously.

If the fingertip straightens, it means the soil is acidic. If it is only half inflated, it is slightly acidic. If no changes occur – neutral.

Determining acidity using chalk: the fingertip is not inflated, which means the soil is neutral

Litmus paper

Determining acidity using indicator strips is the most accurate method. You can buy them in gardening stores. They are sold as a set of 50 - 100 strips along with a color scale of pH values.

To conduct the experiment, earth and clean water are placed in a container in a ratio of 1:4, after which everything must be mixed well.

After the appearance of earthen sediment, you need to lower the litmus paper into the water for a few seconds. Within one minute, a color should appear on the strip, by which you can easily determine the pH level of the soil.

Litmus indicator for determining soil acidity is the most reliable and time-tested method

How to reduce or increase acidity in the countryside

If measurements show that the soil at the dacha is too acidic, it is necessary. There are several ways to do this:

1. Lime, previously slaked with water, is applied to the soil at the rate of 1 hectare:

• strongly acidic pH level – 50-75 kg;
• medium acid – 45-45 kg;
• weakly acidic – 25-35 kg.

1. Using limestone flour(another name is dolomite) you can not only reduce the acidity of the earth, but also saturate it with magnesium, calcium, and other trace elements. But this method will be inferior in speed to slaked lime.

The smaller dolomite flour, the faster chemical reactions in the soil will take place.

• strongly acidic environment – ​​500-600 grams per 1m2;
• medium acidic – 450-500 grams per 1m2;
• slightly acidic – 350-450 grams per 1m2.

1. Substances containing calcium can also lower the pH level:

• Crushed chalk per 1 m2 is added to strongly acidic soil - 300 grams, moderately acidic - 200 grams, slightly acidic - 100 grams.
• It is necessary to fertilize the soil with peat ash at a rate that is 4 times higher than the chalk application rate.
• Wood ash is used at the rate of 100-200 grams per 1m2.

1. The most convenient way to deoxidize the soil is to buy special means to normalize the soil.

If the soil is alkaline, it needs to be acidified:

1. Using organic matter such as fresh manure, leaf compost, high-moor peat, sphagnum moss, rotted sawdust and pine needles. These substances slowly acidify the soil, but act for a long time.
2. Mineral compounds will help reduce the alkalinity of the environment faster than organic ones:

• Colloidal sulfur significantly increases acidity. It needs to be applied before winter to a depth of 10-15 cm. The result will appear in about a year.
• Iron sulfate works faster; for this you need to take 0.5 kg of the substance per 10 m2.

1. The fastest method is to use acid solutions:

• Dilute 50 ml of sulfuric acid in 10 liters of water. This volume is calculated for 1m2 of garden plot;
• 1-2 tablespoons citric acid mix with 10 liters of water.

The level of soil acidity is the most important indicator of plant growth and development. For the vast majority of garden and fruit and berry crops A neutral environment is most favorable. Such conditions can be achieved by promptly deoxidizing or acidifying the soil.

My grandfather always said: “There will be no good harvest if the soil is bad.” He knew where and what kind of plant could be grown. Knowledge passed down from generation to generation has been confirmed by science. Scientists have found, for example, that soil acidity affects crop yields.

I have systematized all scientific and popular information and now I will tell you how you can determine the acidity of the soil yourself, without using the services of laboratories. The material will be great. Use the table of contents to quickly jump to the section you are interested in.

What is acidic and alkaline soil?

Without going into scientific terms, acidity is the ability of soil to exhibit the properties of acids. Depending on the pH level, the following groups can be distinguished:

• pH above 7 – alkaline soil reaction;
• pH 7 – neutral reaction;
• pH 5.6-6.9 – slightly acidic, closer to neutral;
• pH 5 – slightly acidic;
• pH 4.6-5.0 – medium acidic;
• pH 4.1-4.5 – highly acidic;
• pH 3.8-4.0 – very acidic.

A few cultivated plants prefer acidic soil, including heather, hydrangea, lupine and rhododendron. Most garden and vegetable crops weaken in such soil, their roots die, and the above-ground part is more often affected by diseases.

The ability to determine the acidity of soil in the garden or garden plot will help increase crop yields.

How to determine soil acidity using weeds?

Our ancestors knew that certain types of plants do not take root in acidic soils, while others, on the contrary, feel at ease in such an area. Biologists also became interested in the phenomenon and divided the weeds into groups depending on their preferences for soil acidity. If you recently bought land, take a look around. Weeds will tell you how the soil in your garden is reacting.

Weeds are extreme acidophiles

These plants will be in the garden or vegetable garden if the soil has high acidity (within 3-4.5 pH). For your convenience, I have selected a photo for each herb, click on the pictures to view in detail.

Sorrel is sour. It has sour leaves, which is why it got its name. The weed is found throughout Russia. Prefers damp places, near forests or on pastures. Grows well in acidic soil.

Mosses (green, hylocomium, sphagnum and dikran). Found everywhere. They prefer acidic soil and plenty of moisture. Most often they reproduce in the shade, but in some cases they can also grow in the open.

Lycopodium. Another name is “club”. Found everywhere. It is a creeping perennial plant, the shoots of which have a creeping shape. Belongs to evergreen weeds.

Whitebeard sticking out. Perennial, has leaves 5-15 cm high. When they die, the leaves dry out and stick up for several years (hence the name). It is found on acidic, sandy or podzolic soils.

Mayweed. Very similar to chamomile. Distributed in middle lane Russia along roads, in vacant lots, in dry meadows.

Vodyanika. In Russia it is found on Far East, Kamchatka, Sakhalin, Siberia and northern latitudes Oh. Can also be found in the Non-Black Earth Region. The plant prefers marshy, acidic soils and grows in colonies in the form of spots on the surface of the ground.

Cotton grass vaginalis. Perennial grass grows throughout Russia. It has a height of 30 to 70 cm. In April-May, flowers form at the top of the shoots, which then transform into a fluffy head.

Meadow grass. annual plant with a bare stem and pointed leaves. In Russia it grows in and around the forests of the Central zone. It is also found in Siberia. Feels good in mixed-grass meadows and swamps. The appearance of this plant on the site indicates high acidity of the soil.

Plants are medium acidophiles

These weeds thrive in areas where the soil acidity is 4.5-6 pH.

Marsh rosemary. It grows in the Far East, Siberia and European Russia in forest and tundra zones. Prefers acidic, marshy soils, and is also found on peat bogs. Loves proximity to bush birches and blueberries. It grows like a continuous carpet.

Antennaria, popularly known as “cat’s paw.” Found throughout Russia and the CIS countries in latitudes from temperate climate. Plant height from 10 to 50 cm.

Bear ear. Another name is “common bearberry.” A shrub growing in the northern latitudes of European Russia, Siberia and the Far East. It can also grow in the Caucasus. Prefers open, well-lit areas and does not tolerate proximity to other plants.

Sorrel-leaved knotweed. The plant is distributed in the Northern Hemisphere. It grows along the banks of open water bodies and in ditches. Can be found in wastelands and summer cottages With high level groundwater.

Oxalis. The plant is more popularly known as “oxalis”. It feels comfortable in shaded places, so it often grows near trees and shrubs. Prefers slightly acidic soils with sufficient moisture. Does not like dry and wetlands.

Plants are weak acidophiles

Sedge is hairy. Plant up to half a meter high. It is found in the central regions of Russia, in the basins of the Volga and Don rivers, in the Pskov and Nizhny Novgorod regions. Prefers shaded places, near trees and bushes.

Male shieldweed. Better known as male fern. In Russia, the plant is found in the territory from the Kola Peninsula to the Caucasus Mountains and from the western border to the Urals. The fern also grows in the southern regions of Siberia. Prefers shady places and can often be found in clearings, fires, and exclusion zones along railways.

Solomon's seal or purchase. The weed can be found in the North Caucasus, in the central regions of Russia, in the Urals and Siberia. Prefers meadows, hillsides and bushland. The plant can also be found in deciduous forests.

Campanula latifolia. A perennial plant found in almost all regions of Russia, with the exception of the Far North. Reaches up to 120 cm in height. Has oblong leaves. The flowers are purple, less often white.

Plant neutrophils

Plants of this group are most often excellent indicators of neutral soils or those with weak acidity in the region of 4.5-7 pH. This soil is suitable for most garden and vegetable crops.

Yarrow. In Russia it is found everywhere, with the exception of northern latitudes. He feels at ease in villages, on the edge of the forest, along roads. In rural areas, the weed can be seen along boundaries, along well-trodden paths, and along the banks of reservoirs.

Coltsfoot. It grows throughout our country, with the exception of the Far East and northern latitudes. Prefers areas of land free of turf. Loves clay soils, but can grow on other soils. In the garden it readily grows in areas cultivated by humans.

Vegetable thistle or garden thistle. It grows in many regions of the European part of Russia and in southern Siberia. Prefers moist or peaty soils. Can grow around springs, streams and rivers. It is noteworthy that the plant indicates a high nitrogen content in the soil.

Wild strawberry. The plant, although not a weed, also indicates the acidity of the soil is closer to neutral. Grows in forest and forest-steppe zones of Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan. Prefers forest edges or proximity to bushes. It can also grow in unkempt agricultural areas.

Meadow clover. Grows in soils with average moisture levels. The weed can be found in meadows, abandoned vegetable gardens, along paths and paths. Feels good in the light shade of trees. The plant indicates a slightly acidic soil environment.

The cuff is ordinary. The grass is found in the European part of Russia and Siberia, with the exception of the southernmost regions. It grows in arable lands, along the edges of roads and paths, and on forest edges. Does not like shaded and waterlogged soil.

Pharmaceutical chamomile. It mainly grows in the central and southern regions of the European part of Russia. Rarely - in Altai and the Far East. It is found in different places, but more often in areas with sparse grass, along roads and fences, and on borders. Loves sunny places, does not tolerate waterlogged soil.

The plants listed above do not serve as indicators in all cases. Weed seeds can be carried into the garden or garden by the wind or birds. Determining soil acidity by weeds is one of the most primitive methods that does not give an accurate result.

By the way, one granny told me one more thing folk remedy, allowing you to find out “sour earth or not” (her expression). Sow red beets in the desired area, and inspect the tops closer to autumn. On acidic soil, the leaves will turn red; on slightly acidic soil they will be green, but with red veins.

Determining soil acidity using acids

While I was writing the text, I started thinking. We studied something about soil acidity at school, in natural history classes. They even carried out experiments. Luckily I found it detailed description a way to roughly determine acidic soil on your site or alkaline.

Using vinegar

The method, which can be used at home, is based on the chemical reaction of vinegar with minerals. To do a test test yourself, take a handful of soil from a depth of about 20 cm. Spread in an even layer on a plate or board and pour in vinegar. The result will not be long in coming.

If bubbles appear on the surface, the mud slurry bubbles slightly and a quiet hiss is heard - the soil is neutral or alkaline. The vinegar reacts with the limestone, which you can observe in the analysis.

No changes occur - the soil is acidic. If in doubt, mix a handful of earth with water and add soda. The paste will begin to bubble and sizzle.

The method is quite primitive; it can be used at home for preliminary analysis. To find out the exact pH level, methods with vinegar or soda are not suitable.

Using grape juice

Use natural grape juice. Store-bought has virtually no natural ingredients and is diluted with water. There will be a reaction, but it will be so weak that you may not notice anything.

To understand whether the soil in your area is acidic or alkaline, collect 50 ml of juice in a glass or other transparent container. Place a small lump of earth and watch the reaction.

If there are no changes, the soil is acidic. If bubbles appear, light foam appears, and the juice changes color, the soil is neutral or alkaline.

The method is also not accurate and is suitable, for example, when searching for a suitable plot for a garden or vegetable garden. If you determine that the soil is acidic, think about it. Maybe look for another option for the garden and not spend money on liming?

Hydrochloric acid

Another interesting way, which gardeners use when planting a garden. It can be used to determine whether the soil is alkaline. It is also easy to determine the presence of lime in the soil.

Dig a hole one meter deep. Carefully, in a thin stream, pour 5% hydrochloric acid along the vertical wall. At a depth of 50-60 cm from the surface, the acid will react with lime if it is present in the soil. You will notice a "boiling" and hear a slight hiss.

This is fine. It is worse if such reactions are observed at a higher level. Trees in such a location will turn yellow prematurely, which will worsen the yield. The absence of any reactions indicates acidic soil.

Determining pH levels using litmus strips

For more accurate soil tests without instruments, at home, use litmus indicators of blue color. You can buy them in specialized garden stores or on the Internet.

For the most accurate results, follow the instructions.

1. In the area being surveyed, dig a hole 25-30 cm deep and take 15-20 g of soil. It is better to take from a vertical wall to prevent the presence of particles of the top layer.
2. Prepare distilled water to ensure that the test strips are not exposed to impurities. If it is impossible to get distilled water, boil regular water, carefully pour it into a glass (so as not to get any turbidity) and cool. Check the quality of the prepared water with litmus paper (it should not change color).
3. Mix the soil, place it in a cloth bag and lower it into glass containers with water for 10-15 minutes. The ratio of soil and water is 1:5 (per 15 g of soil 75 ml of water).
4. Dip the litmus strip into the solution for 1-2 seconds and carefully remove. The strip will change color.
5. The indicator box has a color scale drawn on it, with which you can accurately check whether the soil is acidic or not and also know the approximate pH level. Place the litmus paper on the scale so that the colors match.

The list that I have prepared for you will help you understand whether the soil on your site is acidic, neutral or alkaline.

1. Green-blue color (pH 5.6-6.9). The reaction is closer to neutral.
2. Straw yellow (pH 5.6-6.9). Slightly acidic.
3. Pink (pH 4.6-5.0). Medium sour.
4. Red (pH<5). Кислая или сильно кислая.
5. Light green (pH 7.1). Alkaline.
6. Intense blue (pH 10). Highly alkaline.

The latter type of soil is extremely rare. I could not find any cases of anyone having such land on their property.

Measuring soil acidity using instruments

In my opinion, this approach will give the most accurate result. Just don’t save money and don’t buy measuring instruments on Aliexpress or similar sites. Who knows what the manufacturer has done there.

I went around online stores and did a short review of pH meters with different technical characteristics.

Megeon 35280

The simplest device I have found for measuring soil acidity levels. They are unlikely to be able to determine the pH level in an undeveloped area: the device has a relatively small recognizable range of values ​​(3.5-8), and I have not found any information about resolution at all.

The device is powered by solar panels. Comfortable? Don't think. In a polycarbonate greenhouse, film shelter or in shaded areas, you will not learn anything meaningful. If you are willing to pay 800 rubles (average price) to control soil acidity after applying fertilizers, then this is the best option. Personally, I wouldn't buy this tool.

Megeon 35300

Universal device. You can measure soil acidity, temperature, humidity and light levels. The device operates on batteries and has an automatic power-off function to save battery power. Triggers if you do not use the device for four minutes. In my opinion, this is enough time to write down the necessary parameters in a notebook for later study.

The range of pH levels for which the device is designed is from 3.5 to 9. Normal for domestic needs. The only disappointment was the resolution: the device has 0.5. Therefore, it is not possible to accurately determine the acidity of the soil.

The average cost of the device is 2,900 rubles.

AMT-300 portable device

A good and convenient device for an amateur gardener. I did not find any significant shortcomings in the technical characteristics. The pH error is only 0.1, and the operating range is 3.5-9.

The device has a rod 20 cm long. The roots of most vegetable crops are located at a depth of 15-20 cm. This means that the “sting” is long enough to test the soil for acidity.

The cost of the device is, on average, 3,500 rubles.

Soil pH determinant ZD-06

The device, as the manufacturer claims, is intended to measure the acidity level of the soil. But I have doubts about the shape of the device. In my opinion, it will not be possible to accurately measure the acidity of the soil with this pH meter: the difference in diameter between the end of the tip and the handle is too large.

Prices vary between 1,800-3,600 rubles, depending on the length of the probe. Whether to buy a device powered by solar batteries or not is up to you.

How to use soil measuring instruments

The operating principle of all devices of this type is the same, therefore the instructions for properly examining the site are universal.

1. Remove debris, leaves, and stones from the area being inspected.
2. Lightly moisten the dry soil with water and wait half an hour. This rule is also relevant in the case of applying fertilizers 1-2 days before the study.
3. Wipe the rod of the device with a clean cloth and stick it into the ground to the desired depth (usually at least 15 cm).
4. Compact the soil around the rod.
5. For a more accurate result, take 2-3 measurements and calculate the arithmetic average.

Using this approach, explore the entire area, especially paying attention to the lowlands (the acidity is higher here).

Let's sum it up

I've talked about all the ways you can measure soil acidity yourself. If you know another one, please write in the comments.

Is it necessary to measure acidity or not? In my opinion, for amateur cultivation of fruits, berries and fruits, it is enough to know whether the soil is acidic or alkaline. Test methods with vinegar or hydrochloric acid are suitable for these purposes.

If you plan to make money from your garden plot, you won’t be able to do without accurate data about the soil. If you choose between blue litmus indicators or a device, I would prefer the second option. Yes, it's expensive. But, knowing exactly the pH level of the soil in the garden plot, you can take timely measures to create favorable conditions for plants. This will increase the profitability of the venture.

As for traditional methods of determining acidity in weeds, this is a controversial issue. These methods are useful for preliminary analysis of a site, for example, before purchasing. But you won't get accurate results.

And one more thought. The acidity indicator, obtained even with the help of instruments, will differ in the same area at different times. Judge for yourself: water lowers the pH level. After rain the figure will be lower.

Doing soil acidity tests yourself or taking samples for testing in the laboratory is up to you. An amateur gardener probably doesn’t have to bother himself with professional research.

Six ways to independently determine soil acidity

Sometimes a soil test shows that there are sufficient nutrients in the soil, but the plants are not growing. What is the reason? It turns out that one of the reasons is the accumulation of excessive amounts of free hydrogen ions in the soil as a result of chemical reactions. They determine the acidity of the soil. In an acidic environment, many vegetable and berry crops cannot grow and develop, since as a result of reactions, compounds are formed that are not available for absorption by plant roots. It turns out that nutrients are present in the soil, but the roots of the plants “do not see them” and begin to “starve”, which means they stop growing and developing. Some of the soluble salts are carried away by rain and melt water beyond the plant root system, in turn, depleting the soil. Long-term application of mineral fertilizers alone also acidifies the soil. The total impact of all negative processes on the soil will increase acidity and, in this case, neither additional fertilizing, nor irrigation, nor other agricultural practices will help. The soil will need to be deoxidized.

What does it mean to deoxidize the soil?

The vast majority of vegetable and fruit crops grow well and develop only in conditions of neutral, slightly acidic or slightly alkaline soil. Therefore, in order to create optimal conditions for plants, the acidity of the soil must be removed, or rather, neutralized (the agrochemical term is deacidification).

Soil acidity level

The acidity of the soil is affected by the amount and composition of chemical elements. The level of acidity is indicated by the pH symbol. The pH value depends on the amount and composition of chemical elements in the soil. Based on the results of chemical experiments, it was established that nutrients are optimally available to vegetable and horticultural crops at pH = 6.0...7.0. A soil pH of 7.0 is considered neutral. All values ​​below 7.0 are considered acidic and the lower the number, the higher the acidity. Like acidity, biological processes in plants are also affected by alkalinity, which is caused by alkaline elements contained in the soil. Alkalinity is reflected in pH values ​​above 7.0 units (Table 1).

These and other deviations from the neutral indicator indicate the degree of availability of certain elements to plants, which can decrease or, conversely, increase so much that the nutrients become toxic and the plant dies.

Table 1. Types of soils by degree of acidity

What does soil acidity affect?

Soil acidity affects the solubility, availability and uptake of nutrients by plants. Thus, on moderately acidic and acidic soils, phosphorus, iron, manganese, zinc, boron and other elements are more accessible and better absorbed by some plants. If the acidity is increased (pH = 3.5-4.0), then instead of even greater absorption of nutrients, the growth of roots and the activity of their work will be inhibited; the plants become sick from a lack of supply of necessary nutrients to the organs. In strongly acidic soils, the content of aluminum increases, which prevents the entry of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, and calcium into plants. Substances that negatively affect beneficial microflora begin to accumulate in the soil. The processes of processing organic matter into humic substances and then into mineral compounds available to plants will practically cease. The alkaline environment also significantly affects many biological processes. Prevents the absorption of some macro- and microelements needed by plants. Phosphorus, magnesium, boron and zinc become unavailable to plants. In some plants, the opposite effect is observed: in an alkaline environment, the root system of plants intensively absorbs applied mineral fertilizers, even to the point of toxicity.

The optimal limits of soil acidity for various crops, ornamental parks and flowering plants were experimentally determined in agrochemical studies (Table 2). For vegetable crops, the most favorable soil acidity is neutral or slightly acidic (pH = 6.0-7.0).

Table 2. Optimal soil acidity level for garden crops in the country

Soil pH	Name of crops
5,0 – 6,0	watermelon, potatoes, pumpkin, parsnips, sorrel.
5,5 – 7,0	tomato, white cabbage, carrots, corn, garlic, cucumber, pepper, parsnip, rhubarb, beets, peas.
6,0 – 7,0	lettuce, onions, legumes, pumpkin, spinach, beets, eggplants, garlic, kale, Brussels sprouts, radishes, zucchini, beets, carrots, chard, turnips, tomatoes, chives, shallots, leeks, honeydew melon, chicory, cucumbers, horseradish, spinach, rhubarb.
7,0 – 7,8.	cauliflower, artichoke, celery, lettuce, onion, asparagus, parsley.
4,0 – 5,0	heather, hydrangea, Erica
5,0 – 5,6	juniper
5,0 – 6,0	pine,
6,0 – 7,0.	1 – woody ornamental, ornamental herbaceous perennials and annuals, lawn grasses; 2 – fruit crops (plum, cherry),
5,5 – 7,0	apple tree, strawberry, pear.
7,0 – 7,8	Clematis
4,0 – 5,0	blueberries, cranberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries.
5,0 – 6,0	lily, phlox,
5,5 – 7,0	carnation, iris, rose,
7,0 – 7,8	peony, delphinium

Methods for determining soil acidity

When receiving a plot of land for temporary or permanent possession, it is necessary to conduct soil tests and determine the level of its fertility, acidification, the need for treatment to reduce acidity, alkalinity, etc. The most accurate data can be obtained by submitting soil samples for chemical analysis. If this is not possible, you can approximately determine the acidity level using home methods:

• using litmus test strips of paper;
• on weeds growing on the site;
• table vinegar solution;
• decoctions of the leaves of some berry and garden crops;
• device (pH meter or soil probe).

Determination of soil acidity using indicator paper

Diagonally across the area, dig holes with a smooth wall using a spade bayonet. Remove a thin layer of soil along the entire depth of the straight wall, mix on film and take a sample in 15-20 g. Stir the samples separately in a glass of water, let it settle and lower the indicator paper into the water. Along with the indicator strips on the packaging there is a scale of color changes with digital values. When changing the color of the strip (the color range can be of different shades):

• red – the soil is acidic;
• orange – medium acidic;
• yellow – slightly acidic;
• slightly greenish – neutral;
• all shades of blue are alkaline.

To more accurately determine soil acidity, compare the color reading to the digital pH reading (on the package).

Determination of soil acidity by weeds

On acidic soils grow:

• horse sorrel;
• plantain large and lanceolate;
• horsetail;
• common mint;
• Ivan-da-Marya;
• woodlice;
• heather;
• sedge;
• thin bentgrass;
• wild mustard;
• bloodroot;
• knotweed;
• blue lupine;
• creeping buttercup.

Alkaline ones are dominated by:

• larkspur;
• wild poppy;
• field mustard;
• fluffy chick;
• beans.

On neutral or slightly acidic soil, suitable for growing most garden crops grow:

• coltsfoot;
• field bindweed;
• field radish;
• cornflower;
• chamomile;
• meadow and mountain clover;
• meadow fescue;
• wheatgrass;
• quinoa;
• stinging nettle;
• thistle;
• soapwort officinalis;
• drooping resin;
• meadow rank;
• Eryngium flatifolia.

Determining soil acidity using improvised means

Table vinegar

This definition is quite approximate, but it will show in which direction to carry out further work on the site. Along the diagonal of the plot, a handful of earth is collected in separate containers. Selected soil samples are poured onto the film and a few drops of table vinegar (6 or 9%) are added. If a hissing sound is heard or the soil “boils” and bubbles appear, this means the soil is neutral and suitable for use without the use of deoxidation.

Tea made from cherry or currant leaves

Several leaves are poured with boiling water and allowed to brew for 15-20 minutes. Add a lump of earth. If the solution turns bluish, the soil is acidic; if the solution changes color to green, it may be neutral or alkaline.

Grape juice (not wine)

This analysis can be done in early spring or late autumn, when there are no green plants. A lump of earth is thrown into a glass of juice. If the juice has changed color and bubbles appear, the soil is neutral acidity.

Soda

In a small container, prepare a slurry from soil and water. Sprinkle plenty of baking soda on top. A hissing sound appeared - the soil was acidified. The degree of acidity must be determined more accurately in order to take the necessary measures.

Determination of soil acidity using special devices

The most accurate result at home can be obtained using analyzer devices: pH meters, acid meters, soil probes. They are very easy to use. It is enough to stick the probe into the soil with its sharp end and after a few minutes the indicator of the soil acidity level will appear on the scale.

Adjusting soil acidity in a summer cottage

Analysis of data on the optimal acidity of soil for vegetable, garden and other crops showed that not all crops need neutral soil. Some plants grow and develop normally in slightly acidic and even acidic soils. If it is necessary to reduce or neutralize the acidity of the soil, deoxidizers are used.

Soil deoxidation can be carried out in the following ways:

• liming;
• isolation;
• using green manure crops,
• deoxidizing drugs.

Materials used for soil deoxidation include:

• fluff lime;
• dolomite (limestone) flour;
• lake lime (dry drywall);
• peat ash;
• wood ash;
• green manure;
• complex deoxidizer preparations.

Before you start deoxidizing the soil, you need to zone the dacha area and allocate areas for a vegetable garden, berry garden, garden, pharmacy bed, country house with outbuildings, garage, recreation area and others. Select those that must be tested for acidity. Conduct testing and, having identified the acidity level of the soil in the selected areas, begin adjustments.

The most common method of deoxidation is liming with slaked fluff lime, dolomite flour, chalk, lake lime (dry drywall). Depending on the type of soil and the level of acidity, the rates of limestone application vary (Table 3).

Table 3. Soil deoxidation by liming

Liming of acidified soils is usually carried out on heavy soils after 5-7 years, on light soils - after 4-5 and on peat soils - after 3 years. The depth of liming covers a 20-centimeter soil horizon. If lime is added at a lower rate, then only a 5-6-10 cm layer is limed. When applying lime, it must be spread evenly over the soil surface. It is advisable to water the soil after application. Deoxidized soil will reach a neutral reaction in 2-3 years.

Lime is a harsh deoxidizer and, if applied in large quantities to the soil, can burn young plant roots. Therefore, liming with lime is carried out before digging in the fall. During the autumn-winter period, lime will interact with soil acids and other compounds and reduce the negative impact on plants. In this regard, dolomite flour and chalk are softer and safer soil deoxidizers for plants. They are safe to use for deoxidation in the spring, preferably when moisture is closed.

Lime is recommended for application on heavy clay soils. Dolomite flour and chalk are more effective on sandy and sandy loamy light soils. Dolomite flour enriches the soil with magnesium, potassium, calcium, and some microelements. In terms of its effect on soil deoxidation, drywall is more effective than dolomite flour.

Remember! Soil deoxidation with limestone cannot be combined with the application of fertilizers. They are diluted in time: deoxidation in the fall, fertilization in the spring. Otherwise, superphosphate, urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate and other substances form compounds that negatively affect the availability of nutrients to plants.

Soil deoxidation by isolation

Among ash materials, peat and wood (wood) ash are used to deoxidize the soil.

Wood ash is a wonderful natural deoxidizer. The application rate for basic deoxidation is 0.6 kg/sq.m. m area. If it is used as an additional deoxidizer the next year after the main deoxidation carried out at an incomplete rate, then the ash consumes 0.1-0.2 kg/sq. m. Wood ash must be added in the fall and not mixed with fertilizers. Being a fairly strong alkali, it enters into chemical reactions with soil nutrients, converting them into a form inaccessible to plants. Therefore, you can deoxidize the soil with ash, but you won’t get a harvest for another reason.

Peat ash is much poorer in active components that enter into chemical reactions with soil acids. Therefore, the dose of peat ash application is increased by 3-4 times with the main application and by 1.5-2.0 times with additional application. The application rules are the same as for liming.

Using green manure to deoxidize the soil

To deoxidize the soil, some gardeners use green manure crops. Annual and perennial plants sown in the fall with their deeply penetrating roots fluff up the soil and lift nutrients from the depths to the upper layers. By forming large green biomass, they practically replace manure, which has deoxidizing properties. Of the green manures, the properties of soil deoxidizers are:

• Lupine;
• Alfalfa;
• Phacelia;
• Oats;
• Rye;
• Legumes;
• Vika.

In general, all green manures, by increasing the content of organic matter in the soil, help correct soil acidity. You can read more about how to use green manure in the article “What green manure to sow before winter.” The best preparation for maintaining the soil at a neutral level in terms of acid content is the constant use of green manure. The soil will become fluffy, fertile, with neutral reactions without the use of deoxidizers.

Use of ready-made soil deoxidizers

Recently, complex soil deoxidizers have appeared on store shelves. They are very convenient as they dramatically reduce the amount of physical work. In addition, in addition to deoxidizers, they also contain useful components that help increase the fertility of deoxidized soils:

• calcium;
• magnesium;
• phosphorus;
• zinc;
• copper;
• manganese;
• cobalt;
• molybdenum

and other elements necessary for plants during the growing season.

These preparations are applied in the fall under digging followed by watering. The neutral reaction of the soil appears in the 2nd – 3rd year.

Soil acidity is one of its main indicators. Knowing the acidity of the soil, you can plan the planting of certain crops with great success, as well as regulate this acidity using special chemical compounds.

What is soil acidity

Soil acidity is a value that determines the ability of the soil to respond to various properties of acids. Acidity is determined by the pH parameter, which in Latin means “hydrogen potential strength.” The pH value varies from 0 to 14. In general, the acidity parameter was first introduced into science at the beginning of the 20th century to measure the acidity of alcoholic products. Then this value began to be successfully used in soil science.

Normal soil acidity is 7 pH. Very acidic soil has a pH of up to 4, strongly acidic soil 4-4.5 pH, medium acidic soil 4.5-5 pH, slightly acidic soil 5.1-5.5 pH. Soil acidity above 7 pH causes an alkaline reaction. An example is the acidity of some foods and household substances.

• Stomach acid is an example of a strongly acidic substance with a pH of no more than 2.
• Lemon juice, vinegar and Coca-Cola have an acidity of 2-3 pH.
• The acidity of beer, wine and apple juice is 3.5-4.5 pH.
• Milk and clean water have a neutral acidity of 6.5-7 pH.
• Substances with a pH above 7 have an alkaline reaction, such as soap and laundry bleach (pH 9-12).

How soil acidity affects plants

Everyone knows that plants absorb all the beneficial elements contained in the soil. But the content of these elements in the soil directly depends on acidity. Many crops that are grown in our region grow most favorably in slightly acidic or neutral soil. In addition, fruits grown in acidic soil have a pronounced sour taste. There are several effective ways to determine the acidity of the soil in your summer cottage.

Appearance of the soil
The first and easiest way to determine the acidity of the soil is to carefully examine it. Strongly acidic soil has a red or even rusty tint. Water accumulated in low-lying acidic soil has a thin, iridescent film on the surface.

You can also determine the acidity of the soil by the plants that grow in that soil. After all, every weed grows only where the acidity of the soil satisfies all its needs.

1. On soil with high acidity grow cornflower, knotweed, spikelet, willow-herb, horsetail, cinquefoil, creeping buttercup, daisy, mint, heather, speedwell, plantain, pickleweed, tricolor violet, horse sorrel. Typically acidic soil has high moisture content.
2. Slightly acidic soil is characterized by a large number of other plants. Among them are bird knotweed, alfalfa, coltsfoot, alfalfa, woodlice, sow thistle, cornflower, rosehip, burdock, chamomile, and wheatgrass.
3. The following plants indicate neutral acidity of the soil - nettle, quinoa, red clover. In general, if nettles grow on the site, this is very good. This suggests that the soil contains a lot of organic acids that are beneficial for plants.
4. If the soil is dense and poor in useful minerals, then plants such as thistle, mustard, spurge, sweet clover, and resin will grow on the site.
5. In alkaline soil you can find poppy and field bindweed.

In this way, you can determine the acidity of the soil only by those plants that grow on it. Also pay attention to the concentration of plants. Plants thrive in soil of neutral acidity, as well as in slightly acidic soil, so there are a lot of weeds in such an area. And if the greenery is scanty and low, then the soil is most likely alkaline.

Klychnikov method
There is another way to determine soil acidity at home. This is the well-known method of agronomist Klychnikov.

1. Collect some soil from the area whose acidity you want to determine.
2. Dry the soil and fill the bottle halfway with it.
3. Then take some chalk and wrap it in paper, not quite tightly. Place the piece of paper with chalk into the bottle.
4. Place a compressed fingertip on the neck of the bottle. There should be no air in it, the fingertip should be flattened. Instead of a fingertip, you can use part of a rubber glove, the main thing is tightness.
5. Then you need to shake the bottle so that the chalk spills out and mixes with the soil. To ensure the purity of the experiment, shake the bottle while holding it with a towel or a cloth glove so that the heat from your hands is not transferred to the glass.
6. If the soil is acidic, then when it interacts with chalk it will begin to release carbon dioxide. At the same time, the pressure in the bottle increases, and the fingertip fills with air.
7. The acid level is determined as the fingertip fills with gas. If the fingertip is completely filled and sufficient pressure is felt when squeezing, then the acidity of the soil is high. If the pressure is average, then the soil is slightly acidic.

This simple method will help determine the acidity of the soil without any laboratory tests.

It is a piece of paper impregnated with various indicator substances. Litmus paper has several colors, each of which corresponds to a specific acidity.

The principle of determining acidity is as follows. Soil is collected into a piece of clean cloth, the acidity of which must be determined. The knot is tied tightly and lowered into distilled water. When the water is sufficiently saturated with the soil, litmus paper is lowered into it for a few seconds. After this, one of the colors appears on the paper, which must be compared on a scale. Each color corresponds to a specific acidity. Colors ranging from yellow to red are an indicator of acidic soil, while blue and blue shades correspond to neutral soil. Determining soil acidity using the litmus test method is quite reliable. The set can be purchased in stores for summer residents.

Vinegar
Soil acidity can be determined using vinegar. Sprinkle some of the soil to be tested onto the glass. Water the soil with 9% vinegar. If strong foaming begins, the soil is alkaline. If the soil is moderately acidic, the hissing will be weak. And if the soil is acidic, then there will be no foam at all.

Beet
If beets grow on the site, the acidity of the soil can be determined by the appearance of its tops. When the tops have a red tint, the soil is acidic. If the tops are green with red streaks, then they are moderately sour. Green tops occur in beets grown on neutral soil. Beetroot does not grow in alkaline soil.

How to reduce soil acidity

Acidic soil is not favorable for growing many crops. Therefore, it is necessary to artificially reduce acidity in order to improve soil fertility. You can neutralize acidic soil using slaked lime, dolomite flour, limestone, ground chalk, limestone tuff, and cement dust.

The selected substance is best applied to the soil in the spring. Sprinkle lime onto the soil at a rate of one cup per square meter of soil. Then dig up the ground thoroughly and level it with a rake. However, be careful. Make sure the soil is acidic and only then take action. Because if the soil is alkaline, lime will damage it; plants grow poorly in such soil.

What grows in soil with different acidity

When choosing the plants and trees you want to grow on your property, it is very important to consider the acidity of the soil.

1. Sorrel grows very well in highly acidic soil.
2. Slightly acidic soil is well suited for planting pumpkins, cucumbers, spinach, rhubarb, radishes, radishes, tomatoes, zucchini and lettuce.
3. Neutral soils are favorable for many crops - beets, celery, asparagus, carrots, onions, cabbage.
4. In slightly alkaline areas you can grow rye, potatoes, and oats.

Agronomy is a serious science that allows you to effectively use land for growing various crops. And soil science and, in particular, determination of soil acidity is the key to successful planning of planting crops in certain areas. Determine acidity correctly and grow a rich harvest!

Video: how to determine soil acidity

A garden without any hassle—this is what gardeners dream about and specialists take care of, offering various ways to make agricultural work easier. And so the technology, fertilizers and plant protection products are used, but the result is still not what was expected. So, it’s time to return to the earth, in the literal sense of the word: to think about what soil all hopes are pinned on. It is no coincidence that almost all advice for gardeners recommends taking into account the acidity of the soil. It turns out that plants, like people, have their own taste preferences! Some vegetables like acidic soil, while others do not. If you do not take into account these characteristics of the plants and the soil in which they are planted, nothing will work! Therefore, today we will learn how to determine the acidity of the soil and take this into account in our flower beds

Remembering that different soils contain many chemicals in certain combinations, you need to take into account a special element - hydrogen. It is the number of hydrogen ions that determines the acidity level of the soil, which is referred to as pH. Having determined this level, it is checked against a special pH scale in order to know exactly what kind of soil you are dealing with.

Soil acidity values

The central indicator of this scale is the pH level = 6-7 units. This figure is an indicator of neutral soils. It is at this acidity that plants can safely absorb nutrients from the soil.

Anything less than this indicator indicates a different degree of soil acidity. A level above 7.0 indicates that we have soils with a predominance of varying degrees of alkali.
According to the level of acidity, the soil belongs to one of the main types:

The relationship between soil acidity and plants

Knowing the acidity of the soil you are working on is not just for information. The main thing is to apply this information in practice.
Gardeners must consider the effects of soil acidity on plants. After all, the nutrients that they add to the soil are dissolved and absorbed differently in different soils and are more or less available to plantings.

Thus, phosphorus, zinc, iron, manganese, etc. are better absorbed by plants in an acidic (or slightly acidic) environment. Strongly acidic soil makes it difficult and does not contribute to the enrichment of plants with nutrients, and in addition, plants grow worse and become more susceptible to diseases.

To provide timely and necessary assistance to your plantings, you need to know what the acidity of the soil is in your area.

Video “How to determine soil acidity”

Determining soil acidity

Determining soil acidity is a process whose results are needed by every owner of a personal plot.
It is best to perform a soil analysis at the initial stage of land development. However, it is never too late to find out the soil characteristics of a site. If you still don’t know the acidity of the soil in which you grow your plants, you should determine it. Your care for plants will become more competent and beneficial.

You can find out the acidity of the soil using a chemical analysis of the soil, performed by special laboratories.
The industry also offers to help land owners a special device for measuring soil pH levels.

Gardeners have accumulated extensive experience in determining the acidity of the soil independently, based on the plants on the site. In this case, methods of observation and analysis are also used, and the object of research is various plants and the characteristics of their development.

In addition, when determining the acidity of the soil, you can use available tools:

1. Litmus;
2. Vinegar;
3. Plant-based liquids.

Let's take a closer look at how you can determine soil acidity at home.

We buy a device and litmus

If you want to use special products, you will have to purchase them in specialized stores.
Such means include:

• Device for determining pH level

Device for determining soil acidity

Having purchased a special device - an acid meter, they use it to determine the pH level of the soil, following the instructions. Since the device has a long probe, it is possible to determine the level at different depths. The number that appears on the scale after some time will be enough to correlate with the soil types.

Using such a device is easy. However, it is worth buying it if you intend to use it repeatedly, for example, by teaming up with neighbors on plots. Purchasing a device for one-time use is hardly advisable for most land owners.
In this case, it is cheaper to purchase special litmus strips.

• Litmus paper

Litmus paper for self-determination of soil acidity

Purchased indicator strips should also be used in accordance with the instructions. Determining the acidity level using litmus can only be done in a liquid medium. Therefore, a solution should be prepared using the soil being analyzed. It is recommended to take soil samples for analysis from the entire site. Soil samples are dissolved in a small amount of water (a glass is enough), then litmus strips are dipped into it and their color changes are observed. The resulting color is checked against the scale on the packaging, and after learning the pH data, they correlate it with the indicators of different soils.

But even when there is neither a device nor indicator strips at hand, you can determine what type of soil a certain soil belongs to.

Weeds to the rescue

Weeds, which gardeners consider their enemies, can help in this case! Because weeds, like other plants, are selective to soil type. By carefully looking at what exactly predominates in the area, you can quite accurately determine the acidity of the soil by looking at the weeds.

• On acidic soils (clayey, peat bogs), water stagnation is often observed due to the high level of soil density. This will not interfere with the abundant growth of sorrel and plantain, horsetail or mosses, wild mustard, woodlice, sedge, lupins or buttercups.
• Neutral soil (chernozem) or slightly acidic soil (loam) is preferred by wheatgrass and quinoa, bindweed and chamomile, nettle, clover and cornflower.
• Alkaline soil (with a predominance of sand) can be recognized by plants, wild poppy or field mustard, wormwood.

How to determine soil acidity using folk remedies

You can also determine the level of acidity using other available means, using folk remedies. Of course, it is impossible to obtain the pH level in specific units when using these products. But it is quite possible to get a general impression of the soil on the site.

Using soda

Regular baking soda can indicate that the soil is acidic. To use it, you need to mix a small amount of soil with water to make a thin paste. Sprinkle dry soda on top and observe its reaction. An indicator of acidification is the characteristic hissing of soda.

Using vinegar

In this case, you will need dry soil, onto which 4-5 drops of table vinegar are applied. If a hiss appears at the same time, it means that the soil being tested is neutral.

With tea

To determine the type of soil, you need to prepare a special tea, using not tea leaves, but cherry leaves or currant leaves. After infusion for 15-20 minutes, soil soil is added to the resulting solution. Now pay attention to the change in color of the infusion. The solution turns blue when acidic soil is added; it turns green if neutral or alkaline soil is added.

Using grape juice

This method is used only in early spring or late autumn, before green plants appear or after they disappear. The principle of analysis is also simple. Add soil to the container with juice. A change in color and “bubbling” of the liquid is a clear indicator of soil acidification.

Acidity and garden crops

When planning your beds and flower beds, you should take into account what soil acidity should be for certain plants and know their unique preferences.

Many flower crops grown require soil with a neutral pH.

Acidic soil is suitable for junipers, azaleas, violets, lilies of the valley, lupins, and hydrangeas.

Changing the color of garden hydrangea from white to pink

Slightly acidic soil will also enable the already listed crops to develop well. Roses, daisies, lilies, phlox, and pine trees grown on such soil will delight you.

Clematis, peony, delphinium and other plants will thrive on alkaline soils.

Reducing soil acidity

Knowing what soil is most optimal for the plants you choose to plant, and also having an idea of ​​the pH level of the soil in your vegetable and flower beds, you will know in which area of ​​the site you need to change the soil. It is possible to influence its acidity, make it more or less acidic, depending on its purpose for growing certain crops.
To reduce acidity and “deoxidize” the soil, it is necessary to add special substances to the soil: ash, lime, chalk or special preparations.

Ways to reduce soil acidity.

Ash

One of the accessible and effective ways to deoxidize the soil is to add wood ash. It is used to reduce acidity in the fall, application rate: 600 g of ash per 1 sq. m of soil.
It should be taken into account that the alkaline base of the ash, in addition to deoxidizing the soil, can deprive plants of access to the nutrients available in the soil due to the resulting chemical reaction. This should be kept in mind next year when using foliar feeding methods.

Lime

Slaked lime (fluff) is a very strong deoxidizing agent. It is also used in the autumn, when the application of fertilizers to the soil stops. An even layer of lime applied to the soil is recommended to be worked into the soil using a rake and then watered. This procedure is carried out before autumn digging. Lime application rates per 1 sq. m are different: from 250-350 g - on slightly acidic soil to 500-750 g - on strongly acidic soil.

Video “How to determine soil acidity and ways to deoxidize it”

Chalk

On sandy and sandy loam soil, you can use a less strong deoxidizing agent - chalk. It can be applied not only in autumn, but also in spring, applied to moist soil.
Application rates per 1 sq.m: from 100-200 g - on slightly acidic soil, to 300-400 g - on strongly acidic soil.

Other methods of deoxidation

In addition to adding the indicated alkaline substances, you can deoxidize the soil by purchasing special preparations for a complex effect on the soil. They should be applied in the fall according to the instructions indicated, then it is recommended to water and dig up the soil.
You can also use natural deoxidizers - green manure. They are sown before winter, and then embedded in the soil when digging.

Increasing soil acidity

Often a gardener needs to increase the acidity level of the soil, making it less alkaline and more suitable for seedlings.
You can make the soil softer and saturate it with air using substances that act as soil oxidizers:

• Peat;
• Compost;
• Manure;
• Needles;
• Urea.

All of the listed substances, except pine needles and urea, are recommended to be added to the soil in the fall, followed by digging.

Needles act as an oxidizing agent when used for mulching.

Urea has the ability to reduce the alkaline index of the soil, bringing it to a neutral state. Therefore, urea is present as a component in special complex mineral fertilizers.

When adding oxidizing agents, you should be attentive to changes in soil quality, constantly analyzing its pH index, so as not to make the soil overly acidic.
Armed with knowledge about soil acidity and how to test and change soil acidity levels, you will be more effective in your work.