Strawberries in open ground: growing, planting and care. Agricultural technology for growing garden strawberries and strawberries in open ground

Juicy and aromatic strawberries become the main decoration during the fruiting period garden plot. Many summer residents dream of organizing several beds with such an inhabitant at once, but they are afraid, since this berry is considered a rather demanding crop. Growing strawberries in open ground- a process for which it is important to choose the right variety and understand all the laws of agricultural technology.

There are many varieties of this fragrant berry, and each has its own advantages. So, most gardeners are inclined to grow remontant strawberries. These varieties can produce berries until autumn. In addition, their harvest is much more abundant than other varieties.

The best varieties of remontant type:


Strawberry varieties with early ripening:


Strawberries with large fruits:


When should you plant strawberries?

The first thing you need to decide is the timing of planting strawberries. They may differ depending on the region where the summer cottage is located, or the preferences of the gardener himself.

For example:

  1. Central Russia and Moscow region. The preferred planting time is the last days of April or the beginning of August.
  2. Southern regions. The procedure is relevant in the first ten days of September.
  3. North of Russia. The optimal planting time is late May/early June.

The most the right time occurs when the air temperature warms up to +15 ... +25 degrees. If spring or summer planting is planned, the site is prepared in the fall. When planting in the fall, preparations are carried out a couple of weeks before the event.

Preparing to plant strawberries

Further preparation for planting consists of several points. They are detailed in the table below.

Table 1. Preparation process for landing

Preparation stagesExecution Features

The area where the strawberry beds will be located must meet the following requirements:
1. Soil with an acidity of 5.5-6.5 Ph. If the acidity is below this level, it can be increased by adding dolomite flour to the soil. These procedures are only permissible in the fall.
2. Planting on soil that is too wet is not allowed. A place where water accumulates after rain or melting snow is not suitable for strawberry bushes. Otherwise, the root system will actively rot.
3. Only loamy and sandy loam soils are suitable for strawberries. You need to make sure that it allows oxygen and water to pass through well, and also has good fertility.
4. The place should be well lit. Only in this case will the berries be bright and juicy.
5. Others are not allowed on the strawberry beds. garden crops. The bushes and the berries themselves grow more actively without neighbors.
6. Groundwater must flow at a depth of at least 70-80 cm from the surface.

Strawberry beds would be most appropriate in areas where the following grew in the previous season:
- peas, beans, beans;
- grain crops;
- greenery.
You should not plant strawberries after potatoes or tomatoes.

In order for the berries to be fragrant and juicy, the soil must be fed. To do this, it is fertilized with a mixture of:
- 8 kg of humus;
- 100 g of superphosphate;
- 30 g of potassium salt.
The indicated volume is enough to feed 1 square meter. m. soil.

An important detail for good harvest– selection of seedlings. They must meet the following characteristics:
1. Absence of mechanical injuries on leaves and stems, as well as traces of disease.
2. The roots must be strong and powerful. It's better to choose planting material with highly branched roots.
3. The rosette should have 3-4 young leaves growing.

The beds must be formed in accordance with the place that was chosen for planting. So, on a hill you can create a bulk bed of 10 cm. If groundwater is located close to the soil, the height of the bed is increased to 35-40 cm.
The most suitable bed width is 95-100 cm.

When all the preparatory procedures have been completed, it is time to plant strawberry bushes. Immediately before planting, the soil must be dug up again to a depth of about 30 cm. This will saturate the soil with oxygen. Also in the process, old roots and pests are removed.

Principles of planting strawberries

Planting strawberry bushes occurs according to the following principles:


Strawberry growing methods

There are many ways to ripen strawberries. For uncovered soil, the classic planting method will be most relevant. Other variations are considered non-standard and require the use of auxiliary materials. These can be various containers or landscape slides.

Option 1. Classic cultivation

There are 2 classic growing methods. This:

  1. One-liner. Leave a distance of 60 cm between rows, and 15 cm between strawberry bushes. Recommended for spring and autumn planting.
  2. Two-line. The gap between the rows is 30 cm, between the bushes - 20 cm. This method implies the presence of a larger number of plants than with the one-line option.

The distance between bushes and rows is provided in order to protect the shoots from pests. If the gardener is confident in the health of his plantings, you can make the interval a little smaller.

Option 2. Non-standard growing methods

With classic growing methods, beds can take up too much space. Non-standard growing methods have been developed especially for small garden plots. This:


How to plant remontant varieties

Remontant strawberries require a special approach. Its planting occurs according to the following principles:

  1. Remontant varieties of berries require drainage. Therefore, when creating a bed, crushed bricks or pebbles are poured under the soil.
  2. A mixture of compost, river sand and garden soil is used as a fertile layer.
  3. Before planting, the seeds must be soaked in water or a growth activator for several hours.
  4. The furrows for planting are prepared in damp soil, the holes are located at a distance of 5 cm. The seeds are sunk into the soil no deeper than 50 mm, after which they are covered with glass or film.
  5. When the seeds hatch, you need to pinch the roots at the ends. The procedure is repeated when 3-4 leaves appear on the shoots.

Remontant strawberries are highly valued for the fact that they give early big harvest. It is able to bear fruit until the first frost. At the same time, from 1 sq. m. of plantings, you can remove 1 kg of juicy berries.

Preparing your own planting material

Many gardeners prefer to take planting material for cultivation from their own plot or from a neighbor’s garden. This allows you to immediately know exactly what will grow from the young shoots.

Seeds or tendrils with rosettes are used as planting material. So, with the seed planting method, the harvest can be harvested in a year. And a rosette of tendrils, which was planted in the spring, can produce the first berries this year.

Preparation of planting material is very important stage growing strawberries, so when implementing it you need to listen to the recommendations experienced gardeners. All of them are presented below.

Collect seeds from already existing berries quite difficult. This can be done in several ways:

  1. Choose the largest and ripest fruits. You need to carefully cut off the top layer with seeds with a sharp knife. It is laid out on a cloth and gently rubbed. The grains remain, which can then be easily collected.
  2. Place several large juicy berries in a blender bowl, add water and blend. Pour the resulting liquid into a fine sieve, rinse the remainder under running water. Collect the seeds from a strainer and dry.
  3. The most labor-intensive method is to remove the seeds from the berries using a toothpick.

The planting material is washed through a fine sieve, then laid out on a paper napkin and dried. The seeds can be stored for 4 years.

Growing strawberry seedlings

Before sowing strawberries for seedlings, you need to soak the seeds in warm water. When they hatch, a stratification procedure is carried out - they are placed in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator in a humid environment.

Stratification lasts 1-2 weeks. During this time, the seeds are hardened and their immunity increases. Then they are dried and sown in boxes with fertile soil or peat tablets. The seeds are placed in shallow holes, which are lightly sprinkled with earth on top. Grow seedlings in a warm, well-lit place. Plants are transferred to open ground when 4-5 leaves appear on them.

Reproduction by mustache

Bush with abundant flowering you need to choose in early July. He is closely monitored throughout the season. The antennae should stretch and grow in different directions. The further algorithm will be like this:


Daughter bushes are replanted in the second half of August. They must be cut off from the mother plant, carefully dug up and moved to a new hole.

Important! For planting, use rosettes that take root closest to the bush. The further away the outlet is, the weaker the new strawberry bush will be.

How to care for strawberries after planting

To get a rich harvest of juicy strawberries, you need to properly care for the bushes. Without proper care, it will not be possible to achieve high-quality fruits, even if the bushes are planted in right place. The principles of caring for strawberries are presented in the table below.

Table 2. Caring for strawberries after cultivation

What do we have to doPeculiarities
WaterStrawberries need to be watered regularly. The main condition for watering is not to let the soil dry out. For the first 3-4 days after planting, the soil is watered daily, then every other day. The procedure is carried out with settled water in the evening.
MulchIn early spring, it is necessary to carry out the mulching procedure. This will protect the berries from contact with the ground and subsequent rotting. In addition, it works as a weed preventative.
There are several methods of mulching:
1. Organic. Humus, manure or fresh grass. Additionally enriches the soil.
2. Inorganic. Plastic bags, small pebbles or granite chips.
3. Specialized. Mulching with special paper, which is sold in a flower shop. It protects the plant from weeds, fungi, frost and heat.
FertilizeThe principles of feeding depend on what stage the plant is in. For example:
1. During the ripening of buds, compositions with potassium are used: potassium magnesia, potassium sulfate or potassium chloride.
2. For bountiful harvest bushes pollinate boric acid, mixed in water: 1 tsp. the drug in a bucket of water.
3. During the flowering process, strawberries are fed with organic matter - chicken manure or wood ash.
4. After harvesting the last harvest, the bushes are fed with nitroammophoska - 2 tbsp. on a bucket of water.
Protect from pestsAs a preventive measure against diseases and fungus, strawberries are treated with the following compounds:
- copper oxychloride: against gray rot;
- “Fitosporin”: against fungus;
- solution of potassium permanganate: against powdery mildew.

Strawberries are a fairly demanding plant, so before planting, you need to prepare the beds on which the strawberries will be planted and grown. The better the soil is prepared, the greater the harvest of berries you will get, as well as the greater their size and quantity.

Growing strawberries in open ground

Strawberries are famous for their extraordinary taste and aroma of the berries, which is why everyone loves them and strives to grow them themselves. summer cottage. Gardeners grow strawberries in open ground because it is not such a difficult process.

For proper cultivation play a big role:

How to prepare a site

Initially, you need to study the technology of growing strawberries in open ground. You should start by choosing a site for planting seedlings. The site should not be blown by winds from different directions and at the same time should have good lighting, because strawberries don’t bear fruit well in the shade. Therefore, the area where the plants will be planted must meet the following requirements:

  • the soil should be sandy or loamy, breathable and nutritious;
  • soil acidity within 5.5−6.5 Ph;
  • there should be no accumulations of precipitation with melt water;
  • the location of groundwater is 70−80 centimeters below ground level;
  • It is important to avoid planting in places where tomatoes and potatoes were predecessors.

There are many secrets of growing strawberries that gardeners use.

Some gardeners plant seedlings vertically. For this purpose, pipes, pots, construction nets and waste tires are used, which are placed vertically and thereby save space.

There is a way to grow in plastic bags. The bags are filled with soil and holes are made for planting seedlings. Such bags are laid horizontally or hung vertically.

You can create film tunnels for planting seedlings in order to quickly obtain a harvest.

To achieve a bountiful harvest, it is necessary to regularly water the planted bushes, or you can arrange drip irrigation, but you should not over-moisten the soil, as this will lead to the proliferation of fungi, and the harvest will be low.

Strawberries in open ground: growing, planting and care. I am sure that a berry like strawberry does not need any special introduction. Everyone knows about it, everyone eats it, but not everyone can grow it. It is to grow, and not just grow on your plot and receive a meager harvest from year to year.

The method I propose for growing strawberries in open ground will make it possible to make maximum use of the limited area of ​​summer cottages and get not only stable harvest berries, but also increase the period of fruiting in one season several times.

Strawberries in open ground: preparing beds for planting

Quite often there is a situation when there is simply nowhere to grow strawberries. That is, all plots of land are occupied by other crops, and the land that remains is generally not suitable for cultivating plants. And such an annoying circumstance can be turned into a huge fat plus, since you and I will successfully grow strawberries on artificial beds closed type. Simply put, our strawberries will grow in wooden boxes in open ground.


In order to make a bed for strawberries, the cheapest lumber in the form of old or unedged boards, and even slabs will do. The length of the bed can be arbitrary, the height is 30-35 cm, but the width is no more than 70 cm. In this case, the strawberries in the beds will be located in only one row. But why in one row?

Firstly, strawberries arranged in one row (and they need to be planted from north to south) will feel more free in open ground and receive the maximum amount of light and heat, which has a beneficial effect on yield.

Secondly, such a free planting area will allow strawberry bushes to receive maximum nutrition from the soil and not compete with other plants.

Thirdly, and this is obvious, such strawberries are much easier to care for, namely: watering, weeding the beds, and feeding.

Helpful advice! This method of growing strawberries in open ground will allow you to update the planting material every two years without much hassle.

After all, it is known that in the third year of fruiting, the yield of strawberries sharply decreases and it needs to be constantly transplanted to a new place, but there may not be a new place. However, first things first. This means that we have knocked down the box for the garden bed, and all that remains is to fill it with soil.

Soil for strawberries in open ground

But where can you get so much fertile soil? You can’t buy tons of land at the market or in a store. That's right. Therefore, an unlimited amount of light sandy loam, and this is the soil most suitable for growing strawberries in open ground, can be obtained independently from the endless and, most importantly, ownerless fields of our homeland. In simple terms, we will use turf soil, after processing which it will turn into fertile soil.

For this purpose in early spring, as soon as the earth thaws to a depth of 15-20 cm, we go to a previously identified clearing or forest edge and, using an ax or shovel, cut down layers of earth no more than 8 cm thick.

Next: we put the hard-earned turf into a pile 1 m wide and 70-80 cm high. In this case, each layer of the pile 20 cm high must be thoroughly shed with water, as well as the entire pile after laying it. Then we cover the pile with a transparent film and leave small gaps of 5-10 cm from the ground level so that oxygen gets into this soil mixture.

After about 15-20 days, biological processes called combustion will begin in the turf soil. Moreover, absolutely everything will burn: small plant roots, weed seeds, insect larvae, as well as all kinds of spores, molds and viruses - the main diseases of this berry.

Thus, you will not only disinfect the soil for strawberries, but also make its structure optimal for growing strawberries in open ground.

That is, 2 months after the start of combustion, the film is removed from the pile and the entire soil mixture is sifted to remove small roots and vegetation residues, thereby making it light, airy, well-drained and enriched with oxygen.

Agricultural technology of cultivation and reproduction

The agricultural technology of growing strawberries in open ground itself is quite simple and consists of timely watering, fertilizing and weeding. Which is what we’ll talk about in more detail now.

Strawberries can be propagated in three ways:

  1. dividing the uterine bush;
  2. seeds;
  3. seedlings (rosettes).

1. Propagation of strawberries by dividing the mother bush

The first method is the least preferable, since old bush strawberries, divided into parts, bear fruit poorly and are carriers of various diseases. It is only suitable in situations where for some reason you were unable to grow strawberry seedlings yourself or one or another variety is of high value. That is, you were simply given as a gift or you bought already mature uterine bushes in the spring, and in order not to waste time, they can be divided into parts and planted in the ground.

2. Growing strawberries from seeds

The second way is probably The best way get varietal strawberries. Growing strawberry seedlings through seeds is as follows:

  1. Soil preparation.
    The soil for sowing strawberry seeds should be light, well sifted and disinfected.
  2. Sowing seeds.
    Strawberry seeds are sown in small boxes in late February early March. Moreover, they are sown in well-watered soil and lightly sprinkled with covering soil. However, you should know that the germination rate of strawberry seeds is quite low and does not exceed 50%.
  3. Watering.
    Watering the sown seeds should not be done by drip irrigation, such as from a watering can, but by spraying water using a regular indoor spray bottle.
  4. Picking seedlings.
    After several permanent leaves are formed on the sprouts, it is picked according to a 5x5 cm pattern, and a month later, another pick is carried out, planting bushes according to a 10x10 cm pattern.

3. Propagation of strawberries by rosettes

And the third way is to propagate strawberries by rosettes. And here, if you want to get high-quality planting material, then the mother bushes, which are intended for propagation, also get rid of flower stalks. But getting well-developed rosettes is quite simple. To do this, take no more than three tendrils from one mother bush and graft them onto the soil in no more than three places. Over time, when the first leaves of rosettes begin to form at the grafting sites in the soil, the tendrils are pinched, and the young bushes themselves are lightly sprinkled with earth around them. And the closer the rosettes are located to the mother bush, the better. In this case, the remaining tendrils of the strawberry bush should be removed all the time.

Helpful advice! To get a good harvest of strawberries grown from seeds, all flower stalks should be cut off in the first year of their growth. That is, it is better not to get a harvest in the first season and allow the strawberry bushes to take root well (otherwise they will freeze) and grow.


Due to the fact that your strawberries will grow in separate box beds, their propagation in open ground will be more efficient. Look here: one bed - one row of strawberries, on the sides there are 30 cm of free soil, which is not trampled or compacted as in normal strawberry growing. This means that you calmly spread the mustache around the edges, grow strawberry seedlings, and you only need to grow them every 2-3 years, uproot the old bushes and plant seedlings in their place. That is, there is no need to run around and look for a new place, since it is enough to lightly fertilize the soil on which the mother bushes grew.

The optimal time for planting rosettes is the first ten days of August. It is at this time that the growth processes of the above-ground parts of plants slow down, and they begin to intensively develop their root system, thus preparing for winter. If you plant strawberries a couple of weeks later, they will not take root well, and if you plant seedlings two weeks earlier, they will become very sick. So try to stick optimal timing planting strawberries.

And one more thing regarding the landing scheme

For example, telling you that planting strawberry bushes at such and such a distance from each other would be wrong. The fact is that each variety has its own planting scheme.
It is better to plant early varieties very close to each other, but late varieties, on the contrary, they are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm between the bushes.
Therefore, before cultivating a particular variety of strawberry, be sure to inquire about its characteristics and cultivation methods.

Strawberry care

Very often I have seen such a common method of growing strawberries in open ground as the use of roofing felt between the rows. Thus, some gardeners are trying to curb the excessive spread of mustaches across the beds, while claiming that roofing felt is excellent at retaining moisture. Personally, I would not recommend you to use this method, and here's why:

Firstly, although roofing felt retains moisture, it also does not let it go. Yes, strawberries are a moisture-loving plant, but an excess of moisture in the soil is no less dangerous than a lack of it.

Secondly, the soil under the roofing felt gradually becomes dead. That is, it is sucked in, compacted and turned into a heavy, dense mass, from which the strawberries do not receive any nutrients.

Thirdly, black roofing material is an excellent catalyst for solar heat, and if in the spring it has a beneficial effect on warming up the soil, then in the summer, during extreme heat, the ground under it becomes very overheated and at one point the strawberries can simply lose their entire harvest. And sometimes even die.

Weeding

In order to get rid of excess mustaches, rosettes and weeds, it is enough to walk through the strawberry bed with a hoe 1-2 times a week and that’s it.
In addition, you have all the prerequisites for convenient soil cultivation: just one row of strawberries, convenient passages between the beds and soft, non-compacted soil.

Watering

Another point that I would like to highlight is watering strawberries. It so happens that at the moment the ovaries form, a drought sets in, and no matter how much you water the strawberries from a watering can, there is no use. So I suggest you do a simple system drip irrigation strawberries, which will save you from hard work and crop failure.

To do this, you will need a container at the rate of 3 liters of water per 1 m² of bed per day, and a hose of the appropriate length. We attach the hose to the container, be sure to install a faucet, and stretch the hose over all the strawberry beds. Moreover, the hose should lie close to the root system of the mother bushes. Next, in the area where the hose comes into contact with the ground, using a thin awl, we make holes in it at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other and... AND drip system Watering the strawberries is ready. Just don't forget to fill the container with water (just kidding).


We increase the period of fruiting

In order to receive fresh strawberries from mid-May to the end of July, you need to take advantage of the difference in the ripening periods of certain varieties. Simply put, in your strawberry beds you should cultivate early, mid and late varieties of strawberries. And here the box beds can serve as temporary greenhouses.

That is, we plant early varieties strawberries in 2-3 beds and in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, we install metal arcs on them and cover them with film. And if your strawberries bloom before the first bees arrive, you'll have to pollinate them yourself.

Pollination is done using a wide soft brush, which is gently brushed over the strawberry inflorescences 2-3 times a day.

Covering strawberries for the winter

Just like in the example with roofing felt, I very often observe the following picture: many gardeners cover strawberries for the winter with outright rubbish, in the form old film, cardboard, rags and even slate. At the same time, the extremely useful and most suitable covering material for these purposes is, as usual, right under our feet - fallen leaves.

Fallen leaves, unlike old film or even straw, perfectly protect strawberries from severe frosts in winter and unexpected thaws in early spring and autumn, when they can simply die. You already know very well where to look for fallen leaves, but few people probably know how to collect them correctly.
It is better to collect fallen leaves in dry weather and not just rake them into piles, but grab 1-2 cm of fertile forest humus, which is an excellent fertilizer for all types of plants.

After the leaves are collected, you can cover the strawberry beds with them, creating a sort of mound 50-60 cm high above each row of strawberries. Just don’t forget to press it down with something for a while, otherwise strong gusts of wind can nullify all your efforts. In the spring, when you remove this unusual covering material for strawberries, I advise you not to throw out the leaves, but to rake them between the rows. And over time, mulching them into the soil, you will thereby fertilize it.


Believe me, growing strawberries together is much easier than doing it alone.

Strawberry agricultural technology is quite complex, but if the necessary requirements regarding planting and caring for plants are met, you can get a high-quality harvest of this berry. Considering that a berry such as strawberry is liked by children and adults, both fresh and canned, some effort should be made to create these plants necessary conditions. Despite the fact that many gardeners make significant efforts to obtain a good strawberry harvest, mistakes and shortcomings can still cause almost complete absence large berries Location on.

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries has certain subtleties, since this crop is extremely sensitive not only to the composition of the soil, but also to temperature environment, nutrient levels, as well as various diseases and pests, so it is very important to take into account all the features of this plant to obtain large quantity ripe berries. Considering that many people grow strawberries on their personal plot, you should understand the agrotechnical intricacies of obtaining a high-quality berry harvest in the open ground.

In order to get a high-quality strawberry harvest, you should pay attention to every little detail, since this crop is extremely demanding.

Best harvests Strawberries can be obtained in areas where there are the following types of soil:

  • black soil;
  • dark gray forest soils;
  • loamy soil;
  • sandy soil.

If there is a different type of soil on the site, it should be adjusted. However, soil type is not the only indicator that is very important to consider, since strawberries are a plant very sensitive to acidity. The acidity of the soil for growing strawberries should be between 5 and 6.5 pH. It is important that groundwater lies at least 60 cm deep. The soil at a depth of 15-20 cm should not freeze to more than -8 °C.

Some people are extremely negligent in choosing a site, which ultimately leads to a significant reduction in plant productivity. The best place there is a flat area for landing or land plot, having a slight slope to the southwest. The slope of the bed should not exceed 5°.

Beds located with a southern slope are not suitable for growing strawberries, since in this case the snow melts off them very quickly in early spring, and bare strawberry bushes can be damaged by frost, which will most negatively affect the condition of the plants and future harvests. Areas located in lowlands are not suitable for growing strawberries, since cold air accumulates in them, which does not contribute to the formation of ovaries and ripening of berries, in addition, it predisposes to the appearance of various diseases

. You should not plant strawberries in areas that are heavily blown by winds, as in this case the layer of snow necessary for normal wintering of the tubers may be blown away.

The place for planting strawberry seedlings should be well lit, since shade not only contributes to slower ripening of the berries, but also leads to the appearance of a large number of pests and some diseases. When choosing a site, you should pay attention to the fact that strawberries are extremely poorly accepted and grow in areas where crops such as peas, pumpkin, carrots, corn, onions, eggplants, tomatoes, cabbage, potatoes, beets and garlic previously grew. It is optimal if cereals, marigolds or leaf mustard

. A properly selected plot can significantly increase the chances of a good harvest.

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries involves carefully preparing the soil for planting this crop. This should be done in advance. In soils with low nutrient content, it is necessary to add humus or humus in advance, which contains everything necessary to feed strawberries.

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries involves controlling soil acidity. If the acidity significantly exceeds the standards established for strawberries, it is better to adjust it in the fall by liming.

Strawberry roots only thrive in loose soil, so you should work the soil thoroughly to keep it as porous as possible. The depth of treatment should be at least 25 cm. In addition, it is very important to completely eliminate all perennial weeds, which simply will not allow the seedlings to develop normally. Special attention

  • You should pay attention to processing the area for planting strawberries if there are weeds on it, such as:
  • sow thistle;
  • pig;
  • whine;
  • loach;
  • bodyag;
  • wheatgrass;

reed

If there are these weeds on the site, all roots should be removed during soil cultivation to prevent grass from sprouting after the strawberry rosettes have rooted. In well-loosened soil, strawberry rosettes will quickly adapt and begin to develop. When preparing the site, pay attention to its moisture content. The thing is that stagnation of water even in winter period may cause the strawberries to become soggy. In the presence of high humidity

It is necessary to lay drainage on the site. If the humidity is not too high, it will be enough to make deep grooves up to 30 cm to drain excess water from the area.

If there is too much water in the area, especially in spring, drainage pipes should be continued to a depth of about 40 cm. After installing the drainage, the surface should be carefully leveled with a rake.

Before planting strawberry rosettes, you should determine the presence of various pests in the area being prepared. Such pests may include wireworms, strawberry beetles, strawberry nematodes and some other organisms. August and early September are the best time to plant new strawberry rosettes, as well as early spring, that is, the first days of May. When planting strawberries in the fall, it is very important that the strawberries have time to take root before the onset of cold weather, since already at an air temperature of -5 °C the root system stops growing and goes into hibernation mode.

Strawberries should be planted in cloudy weather, as hot weather can cause serious stress to the plants during transplantation.

Particular attention should be paid to the quality of seedlings. The best option Rosettes are considered to have necks of the root system that are about 6 mm. The root system should be fibrous, and the root shoots themselves should be at least 7 cm. The number of leaves of a good seedling should be about 3-5 cm, and it is very important that they are not elongated. In addition, a strong rosette must have an intact apical bud. If strawberry rosettes are taken from another area, the seedlings should be transported to the new planting site, tightly wrapping the rhizomes in plastic bags to avoid them drying out.

To plant strawberries, you should prepare the beds, and the distance between them should be about 60-70 cm. With this arrangement, the root system will be comfortable, and if necessary, it will be possible to carry out hilling and additional loosening of the soil.

Strawberry rosettes in the garden bed are planted every 20-30 cm. Holes for direct planting are made with a bayonet so as not to crush the soil. Before planting, the tuber roots should be trimmed a little and dipped in potassium permanganate. When planting strawberry rosettes, you should not press them down too much with soil, since the roots require very loose soil for normal growth. Next, you need to water the strawberries not too much.

cold water

. After planting, the ground above should be mulched with peat or dry grass, sawdust or straw, as this will allow the root system to quickly adapt to new conditions. Subtleties of care for a good harvest After rooting, strawberries require

Any weeds can have a negative impact on crop yields, so it is very important to carry out weeding and loosening of row spacing in a timely manner. During the flowering period, plants can be fertilized with diluted urea. After the berries appear, you should continue to monitor the cleanliness of the beds and regularly water the plants. After budding and formation of berries begin, you can fertilize with potassium nitrate.

Watering after the appearance of berries should be done in doses. It is necessary that the soil after watering is moist, but not flooded to the point of porridge. The thing is that in this case there is a high risk not only of the appearance of various diseases, but also of slugs that love a humid environment and at the same time feed on berries. As the berries ripen, they should be collected without allowing them to become overripe.

Diseases and methods of combating them

To obtain a high-quality strawberry harvest, you should pay close attention to the health of the plants, as they are susceptible to certain dangerous diseases. The most common strawberry diseases that can completely destroy the crop include: gray rot And powdery mildew. To prevent the development of these diseases in the period before the first flowering, plants should be treated with drugs such as Horus or Fundazol.

In addition, the so-called strawberry mite, which infects the leaves of this plant and interferes with photosynthesis, can often completely destroy the strawberry crop. To eliminate this pest, plants should be treated with a product such as Aktelik. This product can be used throughout the entire period of strawberry growth and development, including during flowering and fruiting. Complex wrestling with pests allows you to prevent a decrease in yield on the existing bed.

Growing strawberries and proper care (video)

How to prepare strawberries for winter

Considering that strawberries are perennial plant, and a rich harvest of berries can only be obtained 2 years after planting, it is very important to properly prepare the plants for winter. Around the end of August, you should generously feed strawberries with urea at the rate of 30 g of dry matter per 10 liters of water.

Around the end of September, all old leaves should be completely pruned. At this time, the area should be thoroughly cleared of weeds and other debris. Old leaves and weeds from the strawberry plot should be burned, as they can be infected with various pathogenic organisms for strawberries.

Next, mineral and organic fertilizers, which are necessary for the normal start of plant growth and flowering next year. At this time, you can add wood ash, which will allow the plants to grow faster next year. Strawberries overwinter well under a 20 cm layer of snow. If there is too little snow in winter, you can mulch the bed with strawberries well with sawdust or straw, and heat up a dense snow cap on top as the snow falls.

The variety of strawberry and strawberry varieties allows you to grow berries in different climatic conditions, as in southern regions, and in Central Russia, the Urals and Siberia. Strawberries feel great in the greenhouse, as well as in sunny balcony. Growing strawberries in open ground does not require heroic, but regular effort.

Conditions for growing berries

The desired variety of strawberries is selected according to the ripening time, depending on the weather that prevails in spring and summer in a particular region; the size of the fruit and resistance to unfavorable climatic conditions are also important.

Sunlight is extremely important for strawberry bushes - the bed should be located in an open area, not shaded by any plantings or fences. Berries grown in the shade will taste sour.

In the Urals and Siberia, remontant strawberries take root well, yielding twice a season at neutral temperatures. daylight hours, that is, when the summer is not too sunny.

Remontant strawberry

It is very important that in winter the area is not blown by strong winds and drafts. To prevent the bushes from freezing, you need a good layer of snow (at least 25 cm).

How to choose and prepare a place for planting

The location of the cottage plays an important role. In the lowlands, where the air is cooler than in other places, there are not the most Better conditions for strawberries. Where meltwater and precipitation collect, strawberry roots will rot. The berries grow best where there is a slight slope towards the south or southwest.

Note! The type of soil is almost irrelevant, the only important thing is that it is not peat soil.

It is best to choose land where grain crops, legumes, parsley, dill, lettuce, and sorrel previously grew; they cleanse the soil. Under no circumstances should strawberries be planted where potatoes, cucumbers or tomatoes, peppers, pumpkins, onions, eggplants, corn, cabbage, garlic and beets previously grew. It is also not recommended to place strawberry beds in close proximity to other vegetable crops.

When the location of the strawberry bed has already been chosen, you can start digging. When digging the soil, it is important to remove all weeds.

The width of the bed should be about a meter (at least 95 cm). Before planting, add wood ash or humus to the ground, this is good natural look fertilizers Can be used complex fertilizers, for example, compost, superphosphate and potassium salt. You can use regular wood ash, it contains a lot of potassium. It is not difficult to prepare the solution: take a glass wood ash, pour 1 liter of boiling water, leave for 24 hours. You will get a concentrated solution. Another 10 liters of water are added to this solution. For one square meter of land, 1 liter of ash solution will be enough.

Superphosphate and potassium salt are diluted according to the instructions.

Important! Fertilizer should be applied a month or two before planting; this should not be done immediately before planting. If planting is planned in the spring, you need to fertilize the soil in the fall.

How to plant a crop correctly

Bushes need to be planted in rows at a distance of 50 cm from each other, but more is possible. If the place does not allow you to plant strawberries according to the rules, you can leave 20-30 cm between the bushes. Plants should be large, healthy, without damage. Bushes should have a well-developed root system and at least 3-4 leaves.

The seedlings are pre-treated - the roots are kept for 10-15 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate or weak ( Pink colour) solution of potassium permanganate. To prepare the solution, take 2 tsp. vitriol per 20 liters of water. Additionally, add 6 tablespoons of salt to the solution. The potassium permanganate solution should not contain sediment, otherwise you can burn the roots. Immediately before planting, the bed is watered abundantly.

If the site is not in a lowland, high bed no berries needed. If the place is rather low, it is better to build a high ridge - from 10 to 40 cm in height.

The best time for planting is mid-July. It is recommended to plant in cloudy weather or in the evening. After the bed has been dug and fertilizers have been added to the ground, the soil should be leveled and a thin layer (about 2 cm) of regular sand should be poured on top. Sand will prevent snails from spoiling the harvest. You should not bury the bush too deeply to prevent the roots from rotting. You should try to place the roots vertically in the hole, and before doing this, carefully straighten them by hand. After all the manipulations, when the seedlings are already in the garden, the bushes are watered abundantly.

Bushes need to be planted in rows

How to grow strawberries correctly so that they are sure to take root? During the day after planting the bush in open ground, the strawberries are watered from a watering can three times a day, but not too much. If the weather is sunny and hot, in the first 2-3 days after planting you need to protect the seedlings from the hot sun and cover them with covering material.

How to water strawberries for a high yield

It is important to carry out all manipulations in a timely manner, without deviating from the schedule.

Strawberry productivity is half dependent on agricultural technology; soil acidity is important for plants. In autumn, liming can be used to increase acidity. Slaked lime applied to the soil to a depth of 20 cm. You can also scatter it over the surface, without covering it with soil, and wait for the rains, but then the volume of lime will be several times less than normal. Rains will wash away the lime and it will be absorbed into the soil.

In addition to lime, lake lime, marl (rock sedimentary rock resembling stone), chalk, dolomite flour. It is necessary to add acidic components once every 3-5 years; within 5 years, the acidity of the soil is restored to its previous level.

It is very important to evaluate the soil before strawberries are planted.

On a note! Such difficult-to-remove perennial weeds as thistle, loach, wheatgrass, reed, thistle, and goosefoot must be removed using herbicides. It is almost impossible to remove all the roots on your own.

You should also carefully examine the soil and examine it for the presence of pests. Strawberry beetles, wireworms and larvae of other insects should not spoil the harvest. For prevention, you can treat the soil with an ammonia solution - 20 liters per 1 sq.m.

It is not recommended to use chemical ingredients to fertilize plants. It is better to give preference to natural ones.

Urea (carbamide) is a mineral fertilizer; it contains nitrogen, which is already in the soil, but it is extremely difficult for plants to absorb. Urea contains precisely the nitrogen that is easily absorbed. Fertilizing with urea can be done three times per season. Urea granules can be purchased at a garden center. To prepare the solution, 2 tablespoons of granules are diluted in 10 liters of water. 10 liters is enough for 20 bushes; the solution is applied at the root. Root feeding carried out before flowering, in early spring.

Strawberries bear fruit

When the strawberries are in full bloom and bear fruit, you can treat the bushes with urea again. But during this period, feeding will be foliar. In accordance with the instructions, dilute 1 tablespoon in 20 liters of water and spray the bushes with this solution. The leaves perfectly absorb nutrients.

The last time you feed strawberries with urea is in the fall, when preparing the plants for winter. Nitrogen helps plants strengthen their roots and gain strength for the next season. The application of the mineral is carried out in the same way as in the spring - at the root.

Advice! When the ovaries appear, you need to cover the ground under the bushes with sawdust or cover it with hay and straw. This is done so that the berries do not come into contact with the ground. When berries lie on the ground for a long time, they spoil.

It is also important to remove the whiskers in a timely manner throughout the flowering and fruiting of plants. If they are not removed, the bush will bear fruit poorly. Damaged and diseased leaves should be removed immediately, as well as dry and rotten leaves. Weeds should also be removed in a timely manner; after removal, the ground around the bush should be slightly loosened.

Note! If the weather is rainy, it is not good for strawberries at all. It's worth thinking about shelter. You can cover the bushes with transparent plastic film.

How to get a good strawberry harvest without using chemicals? You can prepare a useful herbal solution home production, which was popular several years ago, when ready-made ones were not yet available for sale mineral fertilizers. Ordinary grass growing in the garden is plucked, chopped or crushed, placed in a large container, and filled with water, preferably hot. The grass can be pressed down with a load - a heavy stone or bricks. So leave the infusion under the sun for a week. No need to stir!

Be sure to cover the container with a lid to prevent nitrogen from evaporating. To prepare the infusion, you can use clover, nettle, potato tops, and dry hay. It is not recommended to use grass that has already grown a seed.

This solution must be diluted with water before applying it under the bush. Per liter herbal solution add 10 liters of water. Such fertilizer will be appropriate during the formation of the flower, while it has not yet bloomed. You can pour it under the root or spray the leaves.

Strawberry fertilizer

Secrets of good fruiting

It is recommended to update the location of the strawberry bed every 2-4 years. If there are a lot of beds and it is difficult to move them all at once, you can move them one by one, for example, one bed in the current season, the next beds in the next season. Updating the location of the bushes will prevent the proliferation of viruses and harmful microorganisms in the soil.

Important! If the growth of greenery and the formation of whiskers has accelerated to the detriment of the fruit, it is obvious that the strawberries are overfed. In this case, you should keep it on a “starvation diet” for some time, do not feed it, just water it with water.

If the soil is fertile, in order to avoid excessive growth of greenery, fertilizing should be done only 2 times per season - before flowering and after harvesting.

After the harvest is harvested, you need to prepare the plants for winter. It is impossible to name the exact time, because different regions season ends at different time. In the south of Russia, the crop is harvested twice, the end of the season there is in September. And in other regions, the end of the strawberry harvest is the beginning and middle of August.

Excess mustaches need to be removed 2 times per season - in spring and autumn (at the end of September). It is better to do this with pruning shears or sharp scissors so as not to uproot the plant. You can leave a few mustaches (2-3 pieces) and a rosette, and cut out the rest if the bush needs updating. Dry and damaged leaves are also removed.

IN middle lane In Russia and in the North, bushes are covered in late autumn, when at night it will be subzero temperature. It is important that the ridge is clean and free of weeds. You can cover with snow (if it has already fallen), sawdust, dry reeds, spruce branches, hay or special covering material. They cover not only the roots, but also the bushes and the entire garden bed.

Growing strawberries

Additional Information:

  • In one place, strawberries can bear fruit for 4-5 years. To do this, it needs to be regularly fed, loosened, and weeded.
  • On 1 acre you can plant about 200 strawberry bushes, if the distance between the rows is 60 cm, and between the bushes 20-30 cm.
  • The yield from 1 hundred square meters of strawberries for the entire season in open ground will range from 50 kg to 100 kg.
  • To increase the yield of strawberries in open ground and enjoy the berries all summer, you need to fulfill one condition: select different varieties plants, about 3-4 varieties at once. As you know, different varieties, early-ripening, mid-ripening, late-ripening, ripen at different times. In this way, the harvest volume can be increased.
  • To keep the strawberries in the garden clean, the ground under the bush can be covered with a good layer of sawdust, straw and hay. You can also cover the ground with black weed covering material. But it is necessary to lay this material when planting young seedlings in the ground.
  • A multi-tiered horizontal bed with hanging boxes also keeps the berries clean and makes caring for them easier. The manufacturing technology of such beds also allows for the use of wide pipes as a vertical flower bed.
  • Strawberry yield in a greenhouse from one square meter will be about 25 kg per season.

Strawberry yield

Features of growing strawberries

In the Moscow region they know how to grow strawberries, and they successfully harvest early-ripening and mid-season varieties. The berries grow quite large and tasty. In good summer weather, the first fruits can be harvested at the end of June.

How do strawberries grow in Kuban? The climate here is very warm. This allows you to harvest from mid-late May to mid-September. Grown in a greenhouse, strawberries bear their first fruits in early May. Closer to autumn, late and mid-ripening strawberries bear fruit.

So, we can conclude that for a good harvest all you need is knowledge of how to grow strawberries and a great desire. With regular care, even a beginner can handle a strawberry bed.