In order for the toilet tank to last a long time and work without breakdowns, it is necessary to ensure its correct assembly and installation even during the installation of new plumbing. You should also make sure to use quality materials during installation and reliability of all connections and fasteners. Under these conditions, you will not need to repair your toilet cistern for many years.

Tank drain device

A fairly simple design, which consists of three main parts:

• containers;
• water supply valve with a shut-off float mechanism;
• devices for draining water from the tank.

The main elements of the tank fittings

All these parts may differ in the materials from which they are made, design and operating principle.

Fill valve faults

Signs of valve failure are:

• water constantly flowing down the toilet;
• its complete absence;
• very slow filling of the tank.

Constantly flowing water indicates that the tank is overfilled as a result of a maladjustment of the filling valve or a failure of the float mechanism.

A more rare failure may be wear of the sealing gasket covering the valve nozzle. In each of these cases, repairing the toilet cistern will not be difficult.

Before you begin adjusting the float mechanism, you need to check its serviceability. If the sealing of the float or buoy device is broken, it will simply sink and it is useless to talk about adjustment until it is replaced.

If the float is working properly, then its position is adjusted by changing the bend of the rocker arm, which is connected to the valve. The position of the buoy structure is adjusted by tightening the axial nut.

The float mechanism must be adjusted so that after filling the container to the overflow line, the valve is completely closed. This is achieved through several experimental attempts.

What to do if the water is constantly flowing?

The reason for such a constant leak in a small stream into the toilet may be damage to the sealing membrane at the junction of the drain siphon with the tank.

In this case, in order to repair the toilet cistern, you will need to replace this gasket with a new one. But, before replacing, be sure to check the correct connection of the push lever or the serviceability of the push button. Sometimes leaks are caused by them not working properly or sticking when they return.

The siphon membrane is located at the junction of the drain fittings and the tank

To replace the sealing membrane:

• drain the water from the container;
• disconnect the siphon from the push lever or button and remove it;
• replace the old seal with a new gasket;
• after that, install the siphon in place;
• attach it to the push lever or button and tighten the clamp nut tightly.

Check the operation of the flush tank after repair. Most likely the leak will be fixed.

How to get rid of noise when filling the tank?

Most designs to reduce the noise level of water include the installation of a special drain pipe, through which water is discharged to its lower part when filling the tank.

First of all, check its installation. If the tube has fallen off, then put it on the fitting near the filling hydraulic valve. If such a tube is missing, try to select the required diameter and install it.

Another way to get rid of strong noise when filling is to reduce the flow rate of the supplied liquid. This can be done by closing the tap on the water supply line or installing a restriction washer on the hose fitting.

What to do if the cistern does not fill with water?

The reason for the lack of water supply to the drain tank may be a clogged valve or supply hose, as well as sticking of the sealing gasket on the valve nozzle.

To check the condition of the supply hose:

• shut off the water supply by closing ball valve or a valve at the point of connection to the water supply;
• disconnect the hose from the tank and direct it directly into the bowl;
• open the tap.

If the water flows normally, then the hose is working. Otherwise, it will need to be replaced with a new one. Cleaning an old hose is not recommended as you may damage the inner surface of the rubber tube, which will lead to unexpected and severe leaks in the future.

If the hose is working properly, it means that the water supply device is broken. Typically this part cannot be repaired or cleaned. It just needs to be replaced completely. And since valve designs vary, remove the broken part and take it with you to the store to buy exactly the same one.

Water flows at the toilet attachment point

If water begins to pour from the tank directly onto the floor, this means that the steel mounting bolts have rotted or the sealing gasket at the point where the tank is attached to the pedestal has been torn.

Unscrew the fastening bolts

But don't rush to start repairs. Before you repair your toilet cistern, you need to buy:

• new set of mounting bolts;
• rubber gaskets;
• clamping washers;
• a new sealing collar under the siphon.

Replacing fasteners

After purchase necessary materials you can start working.

First of all, turn off the water by turning off the tap where the supply hose connects to water supply network. Drain the water from the tank. Remove the old fasteners. To do this, unscrew the nuts that are located at the bottom of the rear of the frame.

They are probably in better condition than the bolt heads and will be easier to turn. Clean the fastener installation sites from dirt and rust.

Place the new cuff in place of the old one and place the tank on the toilet. Insert new gaskets and mounting bolts into the holes and secure their position with nuts.

The nuts must be tightened very carefully so as not to overtighten and damage the sanitaryware.

Open the water supply and check the tightness of the connections. In some cases, the leak may return after 2-3 days, so recheck the leaks over time.

Complete replacement of cistern fittings

Replacing the installation fittings in the water drain tank may be necessary in the event of a complete failure of its main components or in the case when you do not want to go through and repair the parts of the toilet flush tank individually. This is probably why you decided to completely replace all the filling.

When removing components and parts from the tank, pay attention to them design features. Model designs of flush fittings can differ significantly from each other.

The design of the fittings is different for side and bottom connections, and can also differ in the design of the tank, which can be installed directly on the frame or suspended separately.

When removing the tank, turn off the water supply and drain the water from it. It is best to assemble and install new fittings with the container removed. It will be much easier this way, and the build quality will be much higher.

Therefore, start the repair by disconnecting the flush barrel from the toilet:

• carefully unscrew the drain button and remove the container lid;
• unscrew the mounting bolts and inspect their condition, rusty bolts and cracked gaskets will need to be replaced with new parts during reinstallation;
• remove the drain column by turning it 90 degrees or unscrewing the clamping nut;
• remove the column from the tank;
• disconnect the water supply hose and unscrew the clamping nut securing the supply valve;
• remove it and install a new one, tighten and tighten the fastening nut;
• install a new drain column by replacing the old membrane with a new one;
• connect the water supply hose and adjust the position of the float mechanism as described in the first section of the article.

After all these steps, put the tank in place and secure it with the mounting bolts. Install the cover and secure its position by tightening the push button.

Check the operation of the drain tank. Special attention pay attention to places of fastening cistern to the toilet and securing the water supply hydraulic valve. Make sure there is no overflow, but the container is filled to the maximum level.

It's not difficult to do it yourself

As you can see, it is quite possible to repair the toilet cistern on your own. Therefore, before calling a plumber, look at the cause of the breakdown and think about how difficult it will be to repair it yourself.

Most likely, you can fix almost any breakdown yourself, especially since today everything necessary details It's available in stores for this.

Old style cisterns are simple in design. This makes the system quite reliable, but even the most primitive devices break down periodically.

If primitive people could repair hammers, then a modern Internet user has enough skills and knowledge to repair an old mechanism at home.

The design of these products is different water and a design designed using the simplest physical laws. The main components are: a filling device, consisting of a movable lever, on one side of which there is a float, and on the other, a valve that shuts off the water, and.

The most “ancient” toilet flush cisterns of the old style consist of cast iron bell plug with soft rubber gasket. When you press the outer lever, the bell rises and water rushes down through the opened hole.

In later designs the bell was replaced by rubber or plastic bulbs. When the container is empty, the float lowers and the lever opens the valve through which water begins to flow. As the container fills, the lightweight part rises until it reaches a position where water stops flowing into the device.

Possible breakdowns and repair methods

In any mechanism, even the most primitive one, sooner or later various parts begin to fail. Most breakdowns in old-style drainage devices are fairly easy to fix.

Continuous water supply

First of all, you need to check Is the filling valve leaking?. To do this, remove the cover and lift the float lever. If after this water enters the tank, it means that the valve itself is broken and needs to be replaced.

For this turn off the tap in front of the tank and drain the water. Using a wrench, the part connecting the valve to the water supply is unscrewed, the float lever is removed, the fixing nuts are removed, and the valve is pulled out. A new one is installed in its place. The float lever is set to the optimal position after water fills the housing.

If the water flow is completely blocked when the lever is raised, The problem may be caused by the following reasons:

• Skewed float lever (rod)– leads to the fact that it begins to cling to the bushing, the float does not float up completely and the valve does not close. In this case, the rod is pulled out and straightened.
• If the float seal is broken it remains partially or completely submerged in water and does not close the valve. In this case, it is replaced with a new one. If not suitable model, the damage can be sealed with heated plastic or sealant, after first removing all liquid from the leaking part, but this is a temporary measure.

Constant outflow of water

If it is not empty yet, it means that the tightness of the drain mechanism is broken and water seeps between the body and the bell (pear). There are several reasons that cause this malfunction:

• Corroded or dirty seat surface lead to the fact that deposits prevent the drain mechanism from closing tightly. In this case, it is cleaned with emery cloth.
• The appearance of a gap between the body and the seat lead to the same problems. In this case, it is necessary to tighten the fastening nuts with a socket wrench.
• Sometimes the guide bushing falls out of the seat– this leads to a distortion of the lock when lowering. In this case, the sleeve is inserted into the hole of the arc and wrapped with an elastic band.
• The culprit of the breakdown may also be the release lever., which in the wrong position prevents the pear from completely covering the saddle. In this case, you need to bend it and lower it below the inlet of the underwater pipe by 2.5 mm.
  

  Second option - check the fastenings of the rocker arm holding plates and tighten the loose screws. This is quite difficult since the distance between the wall and the screw heads can be less than 10 cm.

You can try to tighten them with a short tool, pushing it into the screw slot. When performing these steps, you must ensure that the vertical plate with four corners is in the recess on the body.

Overflow problems

This is a fairly typical failure that is easy to identify. Water fills the tank and begins to flow out, if you turn off the tap, the flow of water from the device stops, and when you press the overflow socket, the flow stops - the fastening nut has become loose. In some cases, it is enough to turn the overflow several times clockwise and the nut will take its proper place.

Otherwise, you will have to resort to the following tricks. Need to drain the water from the tank, wait until all surfaces are dry.

If the nut does not unscrew completely, it appears between the overflow socket and the bottom of the tank wrap the gap tightly with sealing material and fill it with silicone glue or paint. Wait until the coating completely hardens.

If the nut is completely unscrewed, the overflow is removed, a sealant is wound onto its threads so that it fits tightly into the hole at the bottom of the tank.

Replacing the supply hose

Damage to the supply hose and gaskets at the junction leads to the appearance of water drops (the problem can be confused with) at the points where it is connected to the body of the drain device. First of all tighten the connecting nut.

If the leak remains, you need to turn off the water and disconnect the hose. The gasket is changed, the threads are covered with winding, the hose is reconnected to the tank and the nut is tightened.

Loud noise when filling

Sometimes, when filling an old type tank drain, it makes a loud noise that can wake up the household. Can replace the part with a special stabilizing device, and thus fix the problem. If the pressure entering the housing is not too strong, the problem can be solved much easier.

The filling valve mechanism includes a short tube for draining water. It needs install the muffler vertically from a flexible plastic or rubber hose, lowering the lower end into the water at the bottom. This will help to avoid noise when water falls and the sound of a jumping float.

A well-functioning cistern is recognized as a common occurrence, and its breakdown leads to a fair amount of trouble. Plus, it’s difficult to sleep when water is flowing all the time - both additional costs and the risk of flooding the neighbors below. But it’s possible to repair a toilet cistern yourself!

In this article we will look at common drain failures and how to repair a toilet cistern with your own hands. As well as adjusting the toilet cistern.

The cistern fittings require maintenance and periodic repairs. For example, in a drain tank, the float valve and the float itself may become unusable. In addition, the O-rings can cake (seal the supply and drain pipes), thereby losing their elasticity.

Drain fittings for toilet cistern

For that current repairs You must first do the following:

1) 2) 3) 4)

Repairing a toilet cistern - detailed instructions

To repair the cistern sanitary product you will need the following:

• Pliers
• Adjustable or gas wrench
• Set of rubber gaskets
• Sponge
• Rags
• Gloves

Before repairing any damage to the toilet cistern, remove the top cover very carefully, as... It is not a spare part and is not available separately. That is, if you break the lid, then you will have to do complete replacement toilet cistern.

Remove the lid from the tank carefully!

The method of installing the tank lid for draining water can vary depending on the manufacturer. Therefore, it’s not a sin to look at the instructions before starting, if you haven’t lost them. Also, don't forget to turn off the water!

If your toilet begins to “dance”, do not rush to get upset. You can fix it yourself detailed instructions- look.

Noisy filling of the cistern

A rubber or plastic tube muffles the noise when water is drawn into the tank

If the toilet cistern is noisy or leaking, you need to do this.

Adjust the diameter of the inlet or add a small flexible plastic tube to the toilet tank flush fitting. Water will flow through this tube, thereby eliminating the loud noise. For this:

Place a flexible tube (its length is from 30 to 35 cm) with one end over the hole, and place the other below the water level when the tank is drained. Although the noise may not completely disappear, it will definitely become quieter.

Toilet cistern is leaking: replacing bolts

How to fix a toilet cistern with your own hands if the water goes to the floor and not into Right place and why? The problem here is that the steel bolts are most likely rotted. These bolts are used to attach the cistern to the toilet shelf that needs to be replaced immediately.

“Ears” for convenient unscrewing of bolts

Having purchased a new set of bolts, we proceed to disassembling the drain tank:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Bolts for attaching the tank to the toilet shelf 8. 9. 10.
Tightening the nut at the leak site

Another tip on how to repair a toilet flush tank to fix the leak for good. Most likely, the problem is in the siphon membrane - it has worn out, thereby no longer sealing the hole hermetically. This problem can be easily resolved: replace it with a new one. For this:

Replacing the toilet cistern gasket

1. Empty the drain tank of water.
2. Remove the siphon.
3. Remove the failed membrane.
4. Install a new one.
5. Place the siphon back and connect it to the lever.
6. Screw in the locking nut.

Although sometimes the problem is not in the membrane, but in traction faults. In this case, replacing the drain tank fittings is also easy.

The cistern does not fill

If your drain tank suddenly stops filling completely with water, then you can solve this problem in three ways:

1. First check the functionality of the supply hose. For this:

1) Turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the drain tank and place it above some container (you can also above the tank itself).

2) Unscrew the valve a little and let the water flow. If the hose is in good condition, water will flow freely into the container. Otherwise, replace it with a new one.

Checking the supply hose

Sometimes the place where the supply hose connects to the tank simply becomes clogged. Because after the renovation water pipes Sand and other technical contaminants penetrate into the water and can clog small holes. To fix this:

Try to clear the area using a long, sharp object, such as a screwdriver.

And the last reason is the failure of the float device, namely: wear shut-off valve toilet cistern that will need to be replaced. More on this below.

Float device malfunctions

If water constantly flows into the tank and at the same time goes into the toilet, then the problem is in the float device. What kind of mechanism this is, you can read in the article on our website.

There may be several reasons for its failure:

1) The shut-off valve is worn out.

2) The lever (“yoke”) is bent.

3) The float has become unusable.

Modern fitting kit with float on rocker arm

So, if the lever is skewed, then turn it to a horizontal position. Important! The lever should be located approximately 2 cm below the hole through which water is drawn.

The toilet cistern shut-off valve can have a different structure depending on a particular tank model. Sometimes this valve cannot cope with strong pressure. In this case, install a float valve.

The float, or otherwise called the buoy, cracks over time. Through them, water gets inside the float and it begins to sink, thereby no longer fulfilling its function. Just replace it with a new one, read on how to do this:

Replacing the float valve - step-by-step instructions

Replacing the float

1. Drain the water from the tank.
2. Using a wrench, unscrew the fitting connecting this valve to the water pipe.
3. Unhook the lever.
4. Unscrew the outer and inner fastening nuts.
5. Pull out the float lever. Important! Use the same fastening nuts.
6. Let the water flow into the cistern.
7. Secure the float lever in the required position.

If you still have questions about how to properly repair a toilet cistern yourself, you can watch the video instructions here:

Global repair: replacement of toilet flush fittings

If you don’t want to mess with the small elements of a worn-out drain fitting for a toilet tank, then simply remove the old one and install a new one in its place.

When removing the old drain fittings, pay attention to the damage. You may not need to change it completely, but only a small part

1. First, let's figure out how to dismantle the tank using the example of a drain fitting with a bottom water supply:
2. Turn off the water and carefully unscrew the toilet flush button.
3. Remove the cover.
4. Disconnect the liner.
5. Remove the drain column piece by piece. First, disassemble the top. To do this, rotate it 90°.
6. Unscrew the fastening element of the drain tank.
7. For further work, place the tank on the toilet.
8. Unscrew two nuts: securing the column and valve.
9. Remove the bottom of the toilet cistern drain fitting.
10. Replace the old fittings with new ones.
11. Install the drain tank in reverse order.

So, as you can see, replacing the insides of the toilet tank is a breeze: the whole process takes no more than 10-15 minutes. And at the same time, you do not need a special tool: you can replace the toilet flush fittings only with the help of your hands, wrenches and pliers.

Adjusting the toilet cistern

Adjusting the fittings of the water drain tank

There are cases when the settings of the drain tank fittings from the manufacturer do not coincide with the necessary ones. Then you need to adjust the toilet cistern yourself.

The adjustment procedure is simple: you just need to follow these steps:

Instructions for adjusting the toilet flush tank

1. Disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe.

2. Press out the cup fastening.

3. Place the stand up or down.

4. Adjust the water level. For this:

1) Change the position of the glass (lift or release) using the guide. At the same time, leave a distance of at least 4.5 cm from the top of the glass to the top edge of the tank.

2) Place the overflow pipe above the maximum water level - 2 cm, but below the upper level of the stand - 7 cm.

To adjust the low flush:

Move its float up or down, taking into account the location of the overflow tube.

How to set maximum flush? Move the shutter up or down relative to the glass. That is, in both cases, adjusting the toilet cistern involves changing the position by moving up or down. If you make the damper down, the flow of drained water will increase.

A functioning bathroom is what is required for comfortable living in a house or apartment.

It is extremely unpleasant when the toilet breaks. If water constantly leaks, it is also costly. Water is paid according to the meter.

The product may not always be replaced.

When mechanical system control, repair of the toilet cistern can be carried out independently. Before troubleshooting, you should decide on the type of drain and identify the cause of the breakdown.

Kinds

Cisterns

The devices differ in several design details.

Drain mechanisms

1. Lever. It is installed in separate products, where the tank can be located both above and below. Water drains into the toilet bowl when the lever is pressed.
2. Pneumatic. The water is drained after pressing the button of the pneumatic chamber.
3. Rod. The rod rises up, the mechanism clears the passage for liquid. The rod is always located on the tank lid.
4. Button. The drain mechanism operates by pressing a button located on the tank lid. Models with two drain buttons are available. When one button is pressed, half of the liquid is drained; when another is pressed, the entire reservoir is drained.

The reservoir is filled with liquid to the required level, after which the water supply automatically stops.

Valves

The type of valve depends on how the water is supplied to the tank.

Floatless systems come in bottom and side versions.

Such designs are equipped with a special camera. The system works according to Archimedes' law. The tank is filled with water and the location of the chamber changes, which stops the flow of liquid.

The side valve with float is manufactured in two versions: membrane and piston. In each option, filling the tank stops when a certain amount of water is collected.

The drain mechanism can consist of interchangeable parts or be a single set.

Connection type

• Side. The tank is equipped with two holes on each side. A flexible hose is connected to one of the walls, and a plug is placed in the second hole. The disadvantages of this liner are excessive noise when drawing water and lack of aesthetics.
• Bottom liner type. The hose for collecting liquid is mounted in the bottom of the tank. Filling is almost silent.

One model can be produced with two types of connection. Three mechanisms are present in each tank.

• Locking or drain mechanism. Regulates drainage and controls overflow.
• Bulk valve. The valve for filling the tank can be located either on the side or below. The float is always on top.
• Drain device and overflow.

The main failures of the toilet tank are always associated with these three devices.

For your information. Mechanical damage to the tank itself (cracks or chips) cannot be repaired. The product will have to be replaced.

Troubleshooting cistern

Water from the tank flows onto the floor

If dampness or a puddle of clean water appears behind the toilet, this indicates that the gasket installed between the tank and the toilet has become unusable and must be replaced.

To make a replacement, you will first need to purchase an O-ring. Then follow the instructions to fix the problem.

• Turn off the water supply to the toilet.
• Drain the water from the tank
• Disconnect the water supply hose
• Release the tank from the lid
• Remove the drain tank
• Replace gasket
• Reassemble in reverse order.

To increase the seal, you can use waterproof silicone.

Water is not delivered to the storage tank

This malfunction has several causes.

As soon as the water began to flow freely, we install the valve, valve with lever and float to their original position. Sometimes the valve cannot be cleaned, in which case it should be replaced.

Water constantly leaks into the bowl

• The reason is the incorrect operation of the float. It does not stop the flow of liquid, and it constantly flows through the overflow.
• The lever has changed position to inoperable
• The water supply valve is broken

If the design of the tank is from Soviet times, you should start identifying the fault with the float. Perhaps it burst, water flowed into it and it can no longer rise and stop the flow of water. If this is the reason, the part must be replaced.

Modern toilets have a flush column and do not have a float. This part cannot be repaired, simply replaced with a new one.

Water may leak due to a broken inlet valve.

• Check the lever next to the valve for mechanical damage.
• We empty the tank and watch how water fills
• You should move the lever. It closes the valve. If there is a bend, straighten the lever.
• The lever doesn't move. A jam has occurred. We are replacing the unit.

If the intake valve itself breaks down, it needs to be replaced. The part is dismantled, a similar one is purchased from the store and installed in the system.

The internal fittings have failed

Sometimes several faults occur simultaneously. The entire drain system should be replaced.

Replacing the drain mechanism with bottom water intake.

• Close the tap that supplies water to the tank and empty it of liquid.
• Remove the cover.
• Unscrew the flexible hose
• Turn the top of the column and remove it
• We dismantle the tank by first unscrewing the retaining bolts
• Remove the inlet valve and drain button
• We take out the old mechanism
• We install new fittings.
• We put the tank in its original position.

Loud noise when drawing water

This fact is not a malfunction. Top supply tanks are noisy.

Models are available where you can adjust the diameter of the hole. It won’t get rid of the noise completely, but it will reduce its level.

If it is not possible to make adjustments, there is a modification option.

Take a rubber tube with an inlet diameter and a length of up to 30 cm.

The tube is placed over the inlet hole, fixed, and the end is lowered to the bottom of the tank.

This prevents water from falling from a height; filling begins from the bottom, which means the noise disappears.

A button or two buttons are stuck

A toilet model with two flush buttons is in demand. In such a product, sometimes the buttons get stuck. To make repairs, you need to remove the cover.

First, the nuts holding the buttons are unscrewed, after which you can open the tank. Pressing the buttons at the same time sometimes helps them fall into place.

If the manipulation does not work, you should check the button shaft. Sometimes it gets clogged. After cleaning the shaft, repeat the check. If there is no result, a new part must be installed.

The unit is dismantled, exactly the same one is purchased and installed.

Results

If there is a malfunction, it is not always necessary to buy a new product; repairing it yourself is often very simple.

If problems arise with the drain tank, it is not necessary to call a specialist to your home. Try to independently determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it. Most often, it is enough to simply inspect the tank from the inside and replace worn parts. Let's look at how to repair the cistern yourself below.

Repair of a cistern - design and main parts of cisterns

The flush cistern greatly simplifies the procedure of flushing the toilet using tap water. At the same time, the comfort of staying in the toilet is significantly increased. Water flows from the water supply into the cistern, which has a filling and draining mechanism. The first version of the equipment accumulates water inside the tank to a certain level. Next, the water supply valve is closed.

After pressing the drain button, the drain mechanism begins to function. Water, in a certain amount, begins to be absorbed into the toilet bowl, flushing it away and entering sewer system. That is, the principle of operation of the flush tank is based on the alternate functioning of the drain and water collection system.

In order to quickly and efficiently repair a toilet cistern, you should familiarize yourself with its main components. The first and main element is the water fill valve. It is used to adjust the water level in the tank after it enters the toilet. Float - allows you to control the amount of water in the tank.

Initially, the first flush tanks consisted of a rocker arm made of brass, on one part of which there was a float, and on the second part a valve with a rubber gasket that shut off the water supply to the tank. All parts common system interact well with each other. IN modern variations cisterns The location of the float is not horizontal, but vertical. At the same time, the process of water flowing to the tank is accelerated, and the valve is located in its side part.

Some older models of flush cisterns have a special bulb that hermetically seals the free space. After tightening the lever, water flowed to the toilet.

Most modern cisterns consist of a fitting assembly that connects the filling and overflow systems. For it to function, you must press the button located on the toilet lid. At the same time, the button has two components; by pressing one of them, water enters the toilet in a small amount, while the second button provides a better flush.

Plastic parts and rubber gaskets are used as fittings for the cistern. If it is necessary to replace them, each part can be purchased separately at any plumbing store.

The drain mechanism also has an overflow, which protects the tank from overfilling with water. If there is excess water in the tank, it will never flow out of it, the drain valve will open and it will gradually flow into the toilet.

Also, when starting to repair an old cistern, you should familiarize yourself with the types of cisterns. In relation to the button or lever for draining water, flush tanks are:

• side - relevant for tanks installed on the wall; to drain the water in such a tank, you need to pull the lever;
• top - a button or two buttons are located at the top of the toilet exactly in the center.

In order to improve the aesthetic appeal of the bathroom, in some cases, the flush button is installed separately from the cistern and toilet.

In relation to the material from which the cistern is made, the following options are distinguished:

• drain tank made of cast iron - it is practical to use, but is losing popularity due to its heavy weight and modern materials that are more convenient to use;
• faience flush cistern - they are distinguished by the highest popularity, such flush cisterns complement the earthenware toilet bowl well, vary in shape and color, and fit well into any type of interior;
• Plastic drainage tanks are affordable and are most often produced in a flat form.

In relation to the installation method, waste tanks have:

• top mounting option - the tank is installed high on the wall, an additional pipe is used to connect it to the toilet, which is quite rare in modern use;
• installing a cistern in the wall is a rather complicated process, for which it is necessary to equip an additional niche in the wall, however, this version of the cistern allows you to save useful space in the room;
• Most often, the flush tank is installed on the toilet shelf; if any malfunctions occur, it is possible to quickly gain access to the tank and fix them.

Repair of the cistern mechanism

Initially, if problems arise with the operation of the drain tank, it is necessary to carry out visual inspection. The cause of such problems is most often the float. In this case, the matter does not come to repair.

If water continuously flows into the toilet, while filling the tank again, then it is necessary to remove the lid of the flush tank and conduct a visual inspection of the float. With a slight misalignment, it may simply not work. Also, old rubber seals may not press tightly against the drainage system, causing water leakage.

First, try adjusting the float and fixing the problem. When filling the water to the limit without stopping, it is necessary to replace the float.

If there is a worn seal in the flush tank, it is necessary to press the valve against the drainage device; if water continues to flow into the toilet, then care should be taken to replace the seal. It is possible to add additional weights to make the seal heavier.

If the integrity of the float is damaged and it is gradually immersed in water, the water in the tank will fill it above the required level. In this case, it is necessary to replace the fittings in the drain tank.

To ensure that the fitting fits your cistern, remove it from the cistern and take it with you to the store. After removing the fittings, pay attention to every detail; it may be enough to replace one of the damaged elements and not buy the entire fittings.

Depending on the type of pipe connection to the drain tank, there are several types of fittings, so it is better to take it with you to the store. If the liner is located at the bottom, then to replace the fittings in this case, follow these steps:

• turn off the water using a special tap installed next to the toilet;
• unscrew the button and remove the cap on the drain tank;
• disconnect the liner, remove the drain part of the tank, first the upper parts, and then the lower ones;
• unscrew the fasteners on the drain tank;
• install the tank on the toilet, unscrew the fasteners that secure the second, lower part of the fittings;
• install new fittings in the tank and assemble it according to the same principle as it was disassembled.

The process of replacing toilet fittings lasts no more than twenty minutes, and does not require the presence additional tool, it is enough to use pliers and standard wrenches.

Repair of tank inlet valve

In progress repair work with a drain tank, you will need the following tools:

• pliers;
• adjustable wrench;
• flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
• rubber sealing gaskets;
• silicone based sealant.

Quite often, the cause of problems in the operation of the drain tank is the inlet valve. With its help, the supply of water into the tank is regulated using a special lever system. In relation to the toilet option, this mechanism is installed in the side or bottom of the tank.

If a malfunction occurs with the inlet valve, the water in the tank will overflow. IN in this case, you need to do the following:

• try to lift the float up to the stop;
• if in this case, the water does not flow, then it is necessary to change the height of the float, tighten the rod;
• Clean the inlet valve from dirt and sediment, but before doing this you need to turn off the water. To clean the valve, use an old toothbrush, collect it and check the functionality of the mechanism.

With the help of these tricks, it is most often possible to solve problems that arise during the use of the cistern. However, if the problem remains unresolved, then most likely the inlet valve on the drain tank needs to be replaced. Depending on the type of tank connection, select a new mechanism. There are universal devices suitable for any type of toilet.

Do-it-yourself repair of cistern fittings

If problems arise with a leaking toilet, then in this case it is necessary to pay attention to the following factors, such as:

• tightness of fixing the flush cistern on the toilet;
• Inspect the rubber seal for mechanical damage or wear.

Initially, tighten the bolts securing the flush tank to the toilet. However, do not over-tighten them as there is a risk of damaging the toilet and cistern. If the leak is not eliminated, then remove the tank and replace the seal located on the drain channel. It is also recommended to replace the washers installed on the tank. To seal all joints, use silicone-based sealant.

Repairing cisterns with a bottom water supply is more difficult to carry out. They also have leakage problems from a worn-out seal at the point where water fills. In this case, the seal is also replaced and fixed with sealant.

Repairing the cistern valve also helps eliminate cistern sump problems. Valve - ensures dosage and transportation of water to the toilet. The principle of operation of the toilet is that when water is supplied, the float rises to the required level, and then the flow of water is blocked. During the flushing process, the float lowers and allows water to flow into the toilet. If you see a rusty stripe inside the toilet, then the float is the cause of the breakdown.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main types of malfunctions associated with the failure of the float valve:

1. Outdated gasket - in this case, water constantly flows into the drain tank. To get rid of the problem, it is enough to replace the damaged element of the tank.

2. Rust on the saddle - this problem is caused by water constantly entering the tank. In this case, it is recommended to replace the entire valve. However, it is also possible to install a gasket made of a denser material.

3. Lack of integrity in the float operation - some valves are made of plastic or steel. In this case, if the integrity of the float is damaged, it fills with water inside and does not rise up, blocking the water. To fix the problem, follow these steps:

• turn the float over;
• replace the float valve.

4. When the axial part on the lever wears out, the piston becomes stuck and insufficiently pressed, while water is constantly transported into the tank. To troubleshoot, you will need a nail. However, if the lever has too many defects, it is recommended to replace it.

5. If the stop valve is damaged, then repairing the toilet flush cistern with a button is carried out using a plug from plastic bottle. In this case, it will serve as a new thrust cap.

There are two more common problems with the operation of the cistern:

• high noise level during toilet operation;
• Problems with the drain start button.

If pressing the button does not drain the water in the tank, then you need to check the chain connecting the drain mechanism and the button. Try loosening the fastening on the button, maybe the problem will be solved.

If a strong sound effect occurs during the draining process, then to eliminate it, put a plug on the part specially designated for it in the drain tank. Most often, such problems arise when using tanks with side water supply. If after performing all the manipulations, the noise from the drain remains at the same level, then in this case, we recommend purchasing a special float-type system with a stabilizing chamber. This version of the system is characterized by quiet operation.

Since the drain tank has a fairly simple design, even non-professionals can repair it. The main thing is to correctly identify the problem and fix it in time. Remember, any equipment needs periodic preventative care. Only in this case will it serve you for as long as possible.

Repair of toilet cisterns video: