Looking for patterns for gluing paper robot Valli, then welcome to !
After the release of the cartoon "Walli", a robot scavenger named Walli immediately won the sympathy of millions of children and adults around the world. Despite the fact that several years have passed since the release of the cartoon, people continue design similar robots from a wide variety of materials.
We want to invite you to join the amateurs paper modeling and use it for gluing robot Valli below suggested schemes.
Making a robot Valli from paper
In order to glue the robot Valli, you will need to print it first parts diagrams of which it consists. It is better to print on a color printer, then the robot will be more beautiful and impressive. It is better to use thick paper; thin paper works well. If you don’t have such paper, then print the details on regular A-4 office paper and then stick it on cardboard.
Once the pieces are printed, start cutting them out. To do this, use small scissors or a utility knife.
At the last stage, all that remains is to glue all the parts together. To do this, it is better to use a glue stick, this will allow gluing more accurately.
Paper parts diagrams for the Valia robot
Valli robot head diagram
Cut out and glue the head of the robot Valli.
Robot Valli's torso
Then we glue the robot’s body and connect it to the head.
Robot Valli's hands
Glue the robot's arms.
Left caterpillar of the Valli robot
Valli robot right track
At the end we glue the tracks on the right and left sides and paper robot Valli READY!
- Translation
Translator's note: The robot is freaking smart! Be sure to watch the video below the cut!
I started with the Interactive Wallee toy. The current price for toys"r"us is $34.99.
I am passionate about robots and have a lot of experience in programming and designing to give robots emotions and life. The first piece of advice I can give you is that you need to be confident. The second tip is to be creative. Use them together, and your mind will do the rest for you :)
There are many spare parts available in stores. My workshop is nothing special. I try to purchase those parts that are cheaper. Sometimes I disassemble other toys, because servos, unfortunately, are the most expensive of all spare parts :)
For fastening, I use cable ties, as well as small screws, bolts and nuts. All are available in cheap kits to build at your local store.
To modify cases, I use Dremel tools and sometimes my soldering iron to melt the plastic. When sanding, please have a vacuum cleaner nearby. Attention: When melting, keep a window with a fan open!
Also, if you decide to melt plastic, please use a separate soldering iron attachment.
Here's a video of sWALLY in action...
Here's a cute video of WallI falling while chasing his ball :)
Here's another old video of my first version
Step 1. Materials
Okay, I hope you found it a good place to get started. The table should be such that you won’t mind burning/scratching/staining it (Simply put, don’t use your dining table!)
Here is a list of things I used...
- 1 EZ-B with SDK or EZ-Builder software
www.ez-robot.com - 2 servos for transmission
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=114 - 1 standard servo for head (right and left movements)
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=878 - 2 servos for arms (up and down movements)
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=863 - 1 servo for head tilt
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=862 - 2 analog distance sensors
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=88 - Multiple 3-wire cables
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=690 - 1 box of screws/bolts/nuts
Available at your local hardware store - Hot glue gun
Available in hobby stores - 1 bottle of super glue (probably, for us it will be “Moment” glue - approx. transl.)
Or any other good glue for plastic - 1 soldering iron
I use soldering irons with temperature controlled, which are expensive, but in this case recommended. Sometimes you can find them in online stores. - 1 set of clock screwdrivers
They are usually sold in plastic boxes with a transparent top.
Step 2. Disassemble the toy
Using a screwdriver, disassemble the toy. Remember what was where, because we will need to put it back together.
Note: Don't look at your eyes.
Step 3. Hands
You need to mount the servos on the top of the toy body. This will be your first body modification.
The photo shows how the servo steering wheel and the original mechanism are installed.
Use a Dremel to cut the plastic off the ends. Make sure you use low speed.
I used a glue gun to create a nice tight fit for the servos.
I made two tiny holes in the plastic to put the screws in for security.
Mounting the arms on the servos is a little more complicated. I don't have a clear photo of how I did it.
Also, once you have figured out how to mount the arm, make sure the servo and arms are in the center position. Because the servo does not rotate 360 degrees.
Step 4: Installing the Head and Neck
The neck will mount to a GWS standard servo. This will allow her to move left and right.
Note: Like the hands, the servo should be centered ;)
I used a combination of Dremel and soldering iron to smooth out the neck adapter. I melted 3 small holes to install the screws on the servo.
To install the servo and bracket on the head, you will need to make a larger hole.
I first secured the neck with cable ties, but then added a bolt and nut.
Step 5. Drive. Part 1
Now let's give Walli some wheels!
The toy does not have any engines or transmissions. So you will have to make it yourself.
The bending and turning of the wheels to the metal axle comes off. I ended up using a Dremel and cutting most of the plastic parts. You'll want the inside of the wheels to be flat anyway, so don't worry :)
Now we're just going to rip the wheel cap off the center. This will allow you to remove the screw. After this, the wheels will fall apart.
If any part of the servo is sticking out, cut it off using a Dremel tool.
It's the same on both sides... Look at the photo:)
Step 6. Drive. Part 2
Okay, now we will mount the transmission to the body.
Look closely at the picture to see how much to cut.
It's best to take your time with this step. I use a marker to mark where to cut.
Then attach the servos with the mounting bracket. Then glue them with hot glue.
To securely fastened servos, I used cable ties.
Step 7: Proximity Sensor
I assume you want your WallI to be able to see.
I used a Dremel to install the distance sensor on his neck.
The wires that go together to the sensor are very small and break easily. I replaced them with the 3-cable wires discussed in step one.
Step 8. Tilt your head
Nothing makes WallE more alive than turning his head. This adds certain traits to his personality.
I connected both parts of the eyes so that they rotate together. But you don't have to do this to make WallE look a little funnier. (and worse - approx. transl.)
NOTE: Don't try to move this tiny servo by hand! You will break the plastic gears inside. Trust me, I already broke them once trying to do this.
Step 9: Programming
This part isn't the hardest part since I'm using EZ-Robot Project. This is a robot controller board that connects to a computer via Bluetooth. The board comes with software called EZ-Builder. Software allows you to control the robot without the need for programming. You can also add many other features, including voice recognition.
Here are some links to get you started...
It all started after watching the Cartoon “Wall-E”, I was so impressed by the image of a small, completely lonely robot who alone fights with an entire army of more advanced brothers that I decided to make a computer case in the form of my favorite hero. The end result is a very cool mod... but let's take it one step at a time :)
The first day.
So, I'll start my story about how I made this mod. You won't believe it, but it only took eighteen days! I would like to note that no “hack work” was allowed in the work; I made all the parts from metal..
I started making the body with the robot chassis. The wheels were made of sheet duralumin twenty millimeters thick. First, I made markings on the sheet.
And he drilled holes in it.
The workpieces were separated from the plate using a jigsaw with a metal blade.
This is how they turned out, not very beautiful...
To get a resemblance to the original, I took screenshots from the movie screen and scaled them to fit the size of the motherboard in CorelDraw. By measuring the distances in the picture, I got all the sizes. But not everything that is drawn can be done without changes. Take the drive wheels, for example: my equipment does not allow me to mill conical surfaces on a rotary table. I had to sacrifice this and limit myself to general similarities...
I also did not make the teeth exactly the same; in my opinion, this is a minor detail.
Here is the result of a whole day of work:
Second day. I continue manufacturing the chassis. I use the same technology to make support beams.
Some may think that this is an outdated and inconvenient method... I absolutely disagree with this: not everyone has a dadeco plasma or laser cutting machine.
On milling machine I give them the desired shape...
To facilitate the design, excess metal is removed using a milling cutter. This was done on all the details. The main thing is not to damage their strength. Here's how they turned out:
Then I turned out the wheel mounting parts and support rollers.
I'm trying to collect it.
So far it's not too bad. I also made the track tensioners from sheet duralumin, and then on lathe made it similar to the original.
At the end of the second day of work, I had the base of the tracks.
Day three. I started by turning out the upper support rollers... I'll tell you a secret, these tracks are damn tedious work, I had to make a huge number of identical parts. However, there is no way without this. This is a test of character :) Although lumine is sharpened easily and quickly, it is a pleasure to work with.
And their axes...
This is what the assembled upper support looks like.
All that remains is to attach it at an angle to the base.
Now I'm starting to work on the caterpillar tracks. They are made of aluminum strip twenty-five millimeters wide. First, the workpieces are cut to the required length using a hacksaw, and then processed in batches on a milling machine.
As a result, I have a whole bunch of tracks from which I need to remove burrs with a file after processing...
After a couple of hours you can continue. I decided not to make the tracks functional and put motors on them. Let Wall-e stand quietly on the table. Based on this, the tracks can be assembled on a strip of aluminum, attaching them with screws.
In the end this is what happened:
The protruding screws are subsequently ground down with a grinding wheel.
Day four. I make a jumper between the tracks, or rather the main mounting bracket, on which, like on a frame, the body itself and both tracks are supported. A very important detail. I calculated it for a long time and even designed it in 3D, just in case... There is one funny effect here - for some reason any detail in real life does not look exactly like it does on paper :)
First I gave it the outer size and shape, then I drilled out the inner part. This was done in order to save metal and speed up production.
Now you can process the inside.
We try on each other's tracks.
This already looks like something. From the remaining piece of metal I make brake shoes.
Day five. The day turned out to be quite boring. I continue to work on the track elements, grinding out various fastening elements. Eh, how good it is that I abandoned the idea of making the chassis work :) But there was an idea to equip the chassis with a drive... I probably wouldn’t have completed this project in half a year :)
Oh, so many small parts, and each one must be made...
And try it on...
The two corners of the shoe suspension were made in one piece and then cut in half.
The entire structure was attached to the base with one screw.
Now it’s time to make the body walls. It is necessary to take into account many different factors for installing the motherboard, attaching the arms and all computer hardware.
I start with the sides. Having cut the blanks, I give them their final dimensions in a bag, which will give maximum accuracy during assembly.
The red stripe at the bottom is a gasket that serves as protection against accidental cutting of the cutter into the table.
Day six.
It must be said that even with this small size a huge amount of material was spent on the body, I didn’t even expect that Valli would turn out to be such a voracious robot... But what can you do, he’s a garbage collector robot :)
I make slots for moving the robot's arms, making both parts symmetrical.
On the fold line you need to make a groove with an angle of ninety degrees to half the thickness of the metal. This will allow the plate to bend evenly.
But this will not prevent it from breaking. Dural bends very poorly. To do this, you need to heat the bend and bend it hot.
If everything is done correctly, then an even bend is guaranteed.
The sides are assembled at the corners.
WITH outside The joint is sanded with a grinder.
Now you can attach the assembled side walls to the chassis and see what happens.
Here... I looked at the picture and realized: I forgot about the camera... Now they will ask me: where did the internal inserts and decorative elements behind. Well... I admit my guilt, when you get carried away by something you even forget about food :).
The internal part is needed to cover the groove and protect the computer from foreign objects getting into it. The semicircular protrusion is for decorative purposes only.
Now I’m making the front wall of the case.
And I try it on for the whole structure.
It's starting to look like something...
Day seven. I start this day by making the front cover of the robot. The prototype of my mod is a kind of dustpan, it can open and close. Let's do the same, behind this cover it will be possible to hide something, for example a DVD./ The cover is bent from a sheet of duralumin and attached with screws to a cylindrical base, which will serve as the axis of rotation. Aluminum corner elements are inserted into the sides to provide shape and rigidity.
Now we need to try on the cover to the body.
The next step is making inserts for attaching the arms. The hands must be able to move in the grooves; for this, a square-shaped guide is made.
The hole serves for unimpeded insertion of the insert into the groove.
Lord, what kind of dirty hands… :)
This is how the guide should be inserted. Tired of mechanical work, I decided to start priming the chassis and preparing it for painting. For putty I used a proprietary mixture with the addition of aluminum powder. This putty is specifically designed for aluminum.
I carefully coat the screw heads and sand the surface.
I used canned acrylic metal primer.
Day eight. Today I’m starting to work on the rotary assembly for attaching the arms, ugh.., the paw-manipulator in our Wall-e. The arm assembly consists of a cup, a spring, and a mounting screw. The spring serves to create tension on the knot and will prevent the hands from moving spontaneously. Under the cup there is a suede pad that will protect the body from scratches when moving your hands (not visible in the photo). All these difficulties are so that the robot’s paws can be moved, and so that they themselves can be held in any position.
Screws are screwed into the threaded holes of the cup, which serve as axes for horizontal movement of the arm. The hand itself is made of aluminum profile rectangular section. A fork is inserted into it for attaching to a cup.
This is what it looks like assembled.
Now I'm doing the front part of the hand. It has a hole for a cylindrical rod.
The front part is attached to the arm with two screws.
Today I still managed to make blanks for the “fingers” of my hands.
Day nine. The hand should move freely in all directions, but not fall under its own weight, as I decided earlier... To do this, an aluminum rectangle is attached to the inside of the tube, into which spring-loaded friction elements are inserted. They are made of nylon and create the necessary force for braking by pressing against the side walls of the arm body.
To prevent axial displacement of the hand, there is a spring-loaded element at the end of the cracker, which also creates the necessary friction.
This is what the assembled hands look like:
Now it’s the turn of the fingers, that is, the robot’s manipulators. I again forgot to photograph the stages of their manufacture... The fingers are mounted on two axes and have springs to create friction when moving.
It turns out very similar. Now insert the magnet into the front cover of the case. It will keep it closed. A groove is made for it and it is glued into it with epoxy glue. The magnet is positioned so that it is opposite the head of the housing mounting screw. I used a powerful neodymium magnet from a broken hard drive.
The lid is now held securely in the closed position.
I continue painting the chassis. All painting was done from spray cans with acrylic paint.
Day ten. I'm making a robot head. It should be noted that I puzzled over this knot for a long time, forgive the pun :) All my suffering was not in vain, it turned out really great. But, let's take it in order... So, first you need to prepare two strips of aluminum same size. They will serve to form elliptical casings... their purpose will become clear a little later.
To give them the desired shape, a template is required; I made it from a whole piece of duralumin sixty millimeters thick. At the same time, the cheeks were made to create maximum similarity to the original.
After milling, all parts must be sanded to give them a smooth shape.
This is what I got at the end of this tricky operation:
Now I bend the two halves of the head according to the template... I don’t even know what to call these eyepieces :)
The resulting joint should be placed on the inside - there it is less noticeable. The connection is made using screws and an aluminum plate.
Now you can safely cut the hole.
The cheeks are assembled using three threaded posts; the screws on the front will serve as decorative elements.
I make two symmetrical parts.
To connect them together, you need to make a bracket. It will also allow you to move your eyes around their axis, changing Wall-e’s facial expression.
The mounting screw is located inside the housing and has a friction mechanism spring.
Both eyes are attached to the “yoke”.
But you can turn them this way, and Wall-e will immediately become offended...
I'm trying to evaluate everything I've done. It already looks like something :)
Day eleven. I continue to work on Wall-e's head. From scraps of thick-walled aluminum pipes I make parts for the head housing. In our case, this element is purely decorative. It can be assumed that a “real” robot has memory elements or complex eye lenses there.. :)
To give it an elliptical shape, the workpiece is cut along its length.
After giving the desired shape, the housings are attached to the eyes using screws. Since the walls of the pipe are thick, you can drill a hole in the end and cut the thread. The back covers are also secured with screws.
In the center of the covers you need to install corner connectors from the television antenna; they will imitate the wires on Wall-e’s head.
The next step will be to manufacture the elements of the robot's head surroundings.
And the last thing is the lids. They are bent from duralumin plates.
They are attached with two screws. The remaining small parts of the head are attached to them.
Finally, the head takes on its appearance...
Day twelve. I'm making a head joint. The head will have several degrees of freedom, that is, the ability to tilt in any direction. A locking mechanism is also implemented so that the head itself is held in any position; for this, the bracket is connected to it using a pin and a spring clamping device. The principle of operation is clearly understood from the photographs below.
The holes in the bracket are used for fastening wires.
I try the head to the body.
And I try all this on the chassis.
The image of Wall-e begins to emerge. All the cracks of the body are puttied, after that I sand all the parts and proceed to preliminary painting. The body itself is painted with Ocher paint; all Caterpillar equipment is painted with the same paint, and it matches the color perfectly.
The head is painted with Metallic Gray paint and imitates Old Metal.
Day thirteen. I start this day by painting the hands, that is, the limbs of the robot. I decided not to paint the fingers and rods, but simply sand and polish them. After all, this is exactly what the fingers of a hard-working robot who has been collecting garbage for years should look like :) To apply the stripes, I used narrow masking tape. First I applied white stripes.
Then black. Having previously covered the white ones with tape.
I connect the wires in the robot's head.
Now it’s time for the eyes themselves. It’s difficult to find ready-made lenses, you have to run around, look for them, buy them... I did it easier - I carved them out of plexiglass.
A piece of plexiglass is clamped in a lathe and given the desired outer diameter.
Then I make a radius with a shaped cutter.
All that remains is to polish it on a rag wheel with GOI paste.
Now it comes to the frame of the eyes. First I make the outer ring.
The eyes turn out to be quite complex. The fact is that in the cartoon they are like alive, with a pupil. To imitate such eyes, I had to make a lot of elements... see for yourself..
The entire assembly became similar to Wall-e's eyes.
Day fourteen. The day is completely dedicated to painting. I started the day with a visit to my favorite auto store, bought a liter of solvent and several cans of paint. There were not many visitors, and the seller spent a long time helping to choose paints desired color. The guy still doesn’t understand me... why do I need the “rust color” :) First of all, I take on the chassis. The paints used were cherry, red, brown, black, carmine and chrome. When mixed, you can get a rust effect.
The paint was applied with a sponge and light touches.
As a result, we have severely worn out tracks and chassis wheels that are rusty in places... It’s immediately clear that they have been running around industrial waste dumps for many years :) A sponge was also used to paint the head, but we had to include blue-gray and silver in the paint set. For painting, I mounted the head on a board. Very reminiscent of Professor Dowell's head... :)
What boy as a child did not dream of a toy robot? Many people made them from paper and other scrap materials. Now the shelves of children's stores are literally littered with mechanical and electronic toys for every taste and budget, but a homemade paper robot remains one of the most favorite crafts among both adults and children. Let's consider the process of making several versions of figurines of varying degrees of complexity.
How to assemble an interesting paper robot yourself
Regardless of the chosen model, we will need:
- color printer;
- thick A4 paper;
- scissors;
- glue stick, PVA or “Moment”;
- brush;
- drawing ruler;
- toothpick.
Even a child can handle this figure without the help of an adult. It just takes a little patience, accuracy and perseverance. To begin, print out the color diagram of the robot below on a piece of paper.
We cut out the parts along the contour and bend the blanks along the marked lines. To ensure that all the contours of the product are clear and neat, folds should be made using a drawing ruler, drawing along the lines with a toothpick or the blunt edge of scissors.
Let's start assembling the figure. We do not pick up on a brush a large number of glue and coat the workpiece allowances. You can use glue in the form of a pencil. We start gluing from the head, bending the antennas outward. The neck folds and bends inward so that the head hangs over the robot's body. We gradually move on to gluing the arms, torso and legs. We make sure that all the corners are straight and the allowances are hidden inside.
If desired, we add additional details to the figure: elements made of foil or colored paper, metal or plastic elements. The robot is ready!
Robot made of modules.This figure is a little more complicated than the previous one, as it consists of several parts - modules. The development of the figure is shown below. We transfer the image to any graphic editor and, if desired, make changes: change the color, add or remove the necessary details.
We print the blanks on thick paper or cardboard and cut them out along the contour. If black and white printing is used, the image must first be colored and allowed to dry.
We glue the head together, making cuts in the required places and folding the part along the fold lines. Carefully coat the allowances with glue and hide them inside the part. We cut and glue the antennas, place them in the center of the robot's head so that they are perpendicular to its surface. Glue the body together in the same way.
When cutting and gluing the neck of the figure (part 3), you should be extremely careful and attentive, otherwise inaccuracies may occur during assembly. We roll the part into a ring and glue its ends, connecting the body and head of the robot. We glue the blanks for the handles by first folding them along the dotted lines and attaching them perpendicular to the body of the figure.
We glue the tracks from four triangular elements, trying not to mix up the sides of the images. After the glue has dried, we glue tracks to the ends of the resulting blanks (parts 7). A do-it-yourself robot made from modules is ready.
Robot Valli.The funny robot scavenger Valli is perhaps one of the kindest and most beloved cartoon characters. To make it, you will need to be patient and careful, because the figurine consists of a fairly large number of parts different sizes. But the result will exceed all your expectations and will become a real decoration for a child’s room or an excellent gift.
We transfer the image diagrams onto paper and print out the details, enlarging them to required size. It should be remembered that the smaller the parts, the more difficult it is to assemble the robot.
We cut out all the blanks in accordance with their numbers. It is best to use nail scissors with thin and sharp ends. Using a toothpick and a ruler, we process all the fold lines, forming clear contours of future blanks. Glue together the square body of the figurine, as shown in the diagram below. We try to combine all the details as accurately as possible, otherwise the robot will end up looking sloppy.
From parts 12-15 we glue two parts for the eyes, from parts 7-10 we form the robot’s neck and use it to attach the eyes to the body. We make sure that all paired parts are located symmetrically. TO back surface eye we glue the blank assembled from pre-folded and glued parts 11 and 16. Then we make the hands in accordance with the assembly diagram below, with the exception of the palms.
We assemble tracks and tracks from parts 24, 25, 28-34. This work requires extreme attention and accuracy, as a large number of small parts are used.
At the final stage of assembly, we decorate our robot’s palms and thumbs, and also glue a Rubik’s cube and place it in his hand.
Robot Valli is ready!
Video selection on the topic of the article
Other options for funny and easy-to-make paper robot figures can be made using the video lessons below.
