Many owners of private houses dream of having a greenhouse on their property. This agricultural structure will help owners provide their family with herbs and some types of vegetables already in late spring or early summer. Well, some greenhouse designs, which include heating and lighting systems, are used for growing crops all year round.

A greenhouse with your own hands can be built from wood and brick in combination with metal elements, or have a frame structure, for example, made of lightweight metal-plastic pipes.

When implementing an idea, the first thing to determine is the location where the greenhouse will be installed. The size of the future structure directly depends on its area.

Next, you need to decide when this structure will be used - only in the spring or throughout the year. If you choose the “winter” option, then you need to know that construction will cost much more, since it will require more materials, and will also require lighting, heating, plumbing and ventilation.

Then, you need to select the material of manufacture and type of greenhouse construction. To focus on one of them, several of the most commonly used options will be considered.

Types of greenhouses

The design of greenhouses, in principle, is not very complicated, so any owner of the site can build it independently. To do this, you just need to prepare the material and tools. Greenhouses can be divided into types, based on various criteria - the material of manufacture, the shape of the structure, whether it will be stationary or temporary.

Greenhouse covering material

Several different types of materials are used to cover greenhouses. They should be transparent and may have shades favorable for plant growth. For example, which has become especially popular recently, sometimes not only a colorless transparent one is chosen, but also a yellowish or green tint.

The KINPLAST company offers high-quality cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses. The material has excellent technical and performance characteristics. KINPLAST is a leading manufacturer of polycarbonate in the domestic market. The line of cellular polycarbonate includes brands such as WOGGEL - a material created in collaboration with foreign colleagues; SKYGLASS – universal polycarbonate with excellent characteristics at an affordable price; as well as specially developed grades of polycarbonate for use in agriculture AgroTITAN.

Glass is often used to cover the walls and roof of a greenhouse. Due to its structural structure and transparency, it is excellent for this room, but to install glazing it is necessary to create a particularly reliable, durable frame structure, since this material has considerable weight. Capital winter greenhouses are sometimes built from metal-plastic frames and double-glazed windows, but such a structure will be extremely expensive.

Another option that is most often used for covering greenhouses is plastic film. It can be used for tensioning on a frame built from any material, since it has a very small mass. Recently, a special reinforced film has appeared on sale, which is more durable and easier to attach to the frame sheathing.

To decide on the choice of material, you need to carefully study its performance characteristics, which are presented in this table:

Material Evaluation Options	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Miniature
Mounting and weight	It is light in weight and can be used in certain structures without additional frame elements, as well as without a foundation.	Glass has the heaviest weight compared to other covering materials, and when choosing it, you will need to consider a reliable frame installed on the foundation.	Polyethylene has a very small mass, but requires special fastening. If the material is not reinforced, then it is secured to the frame through special slats and additionally secured with thin stretched ropes.
Durability	Polycarbonate as a greenhouse covering can last 18–25 years, depending on its quality. This material is flexible and has sufficient rigidity to be an element of a self-supporting structure. Fixed to the frame, it does not deform and does not distort.	Glass can last for a long time, as it is not affected by ultraviolet rays and moisture. On the other hand, glass is a fragile and inflexible material, therefore it does not tolerate mechanical stress, heavy loads and deformation of the frame structure.	Polyethylene has the shortest service life compared to other coating materials, as it is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, from which it gradually deteriorates. In addition, it cannot be called resistant to temperature changes.
Noise insulation	Cellular polycarbonate dampens the noise of wind and rain well, thanks to its structure.	If the installation of the material is done poorly, then during strong winds gusts of air can penetrate inside and the glass can make a ringing sound.	The film will not protect the greenhouse from noise, and if the wind is very strong, the material will rustle a lot in the wind.
Appearance	Polycarbonate gives the building an aesthetic appearance and can make an ordinary greenhouse a real decoration of the territory.	Properly installed glass will give the greenhouse a neat appearance.	The film looks neat and remains transparent only during the first season of its use, and even then not always. Then, under the influence of the sun, temperature changes and wind, it becomes cloudy and loses its aesthetic appearance and light transmittance.
Safety	Polycarbonate has high strength, exceeding that of glass by approximately 200 times, and is also approximately 15 times lighter. When falling, the material does not break and cannot injure people inside or near the greenhouse with fragments.	Poorly installed glass is extremely dangerous for people working inside. In addition, if fragments fall into the soil of the greenhouse, you can be seriously injured during subsequent cultivation of the soil. Therefore, if you plan to install glass, then it is recommended to entrust its installation to professional craftsmen.	Completely safe for both people and greenhouse soil.
Care	This material is easy to care for - just wash it with water using a strong pressure in the hose. However, it should be noted that dust on the surface of polycarbonate is almost invisible, so the greenhouse does not have to be washed often enough.	Traces of rain drops remain on the glass, and dust is also retained well. To get rid of dirt on the surface, you need to make a lot of physical effort. It is especially uncomfortable and dangerous to carry out cleaning activities on the greenhouse roof.	Plastic film is not washed, because after wet cleaning, stains remain on it and it becomes cloudy, which makes it difficult for light to fully penetrate inside. The only way out in case of severe contamination is to completely replace the film.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate is able to reliably thermally insulate a greenhouse and protect plants from the wind. Vapors settling on internal surfaces flow down them into the soil. In addition, the material not only transmits light perfectly, but also makes it softer and more diffused. The heat generated by the soil and plants is reliably stored indoors, which creates the greenhouse effect.	Glass is not capable of creating high thermal insulation, unless it is metal-plastic structures with double-glazed windows. The material perfectly transmits light, but does not scatter it, and sometimes even focuses it on a specific bed, which is extremely harmful for plant leaves.	Dense new polyethylene film is capable of creating high thermal insulation, but over the course of a season, under the influence of temperatures, sun and wind, it becomes thinner and loses its original qualities. Therefore, it is recommended to change the film coating every year.

Having weighed all the “pros” and “cons” of materials, as well as taking into account the design of the planned structure, it will be possible to make a choice of the type of coating.

Greenhouse structures

Greenhouses have different designs - it can be a spacious room or just a large box covered with a glazed frame. Structures are also used that extend half their height into the ground. It will be possible to choose one of the varieties only after the owner understands the features of each.

• The simplest greenhouse design, which can be built from scrap materials, consists of an ordinary box, for example 2000x1500 mm in size, assembled from boards and installed in a favorable area of ​​the local area. For such a greenhouse, old ones are often used as a roof.

Such greenhouses are usually used for growing seedlings or herbs from early spring to late autumn.

• Another option for a simple and affordable greenhouse to build is a simple frame structure made of metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes, fittings, and sometimes even thick steel wire, covered with plastic film.

If plastic pipes are chosen for the greenhouse, then even a woman’s hands can make a frame from them, since this material bends quite easily and holds its shape well.

This type of greenhouse can be used throughout the entire spring-summer season, from spring to late autumn. The convenience of the design is that by planting seeds, for example, tomatoes, under the film, after germination and strengthening, the seedlings do not need to be replanted. It is simply thinned out, and when a stable and comfortable temperature for plants is established outside, the film is removed from the structure, opening the free flow of air and sunlight. In very hot weather, a special mesh can be quickly thrown over the created frame, creating partial shade, but allowing light to penetrate to the plants as needed.

• A more complex structure, which is assembled from wooden beams and covered with film, can also be used throughout the spring-summer season. The size of such a greenhouse can be different - they vary from how many seedlings are planned to be planted, and taking into account the convenience of the gardener’s work.

In this design, it is imperative to provide a hinged lifting of the roof to provide access to the plants from sunlight and air. This is also a seasonal version of the structure, and it is advisable to use it only for growing seedlings, since in stable summer temperatures it is recommended to grow vegetables and herbs in open ground.

Video: homemade greenhouse on a wooden frame with film coating

• If you need to grow a small amount of greenery or seedlings, you can make a greenhouse from a metal barrel, in which slots are made in the form of windows. This design uses a transparent polyethylene film as a roof - it can be removed at any time, opening access to air, and, if necessary, closed so that the night coolness of the off-season does not cause harm to the plants.

• A more complex greenhouse design, in which you can already install moderate heating and start using it in the very early spring. It consists of a wooden or metal-plastic frame. This is already a full-fledged room, and in it not only the plants, but also the gardener will be protected from wind and low temperatures. Such a greenhouse can be covered with a very dense polyethylene film or cellular polycarbonate. When creating a structure from pipes, you need to remember that it will turn out to be quite light, and a strong wind can move it from its place, damaging the seedlings, so to tie it to the place, you need to drive metal corners or reinforcement into the ground.

An interesting solution - the frame of the greenhouse is welded from very inexpensive polypropylene pipes and components for them.

• The permanent structure of the greenhouse, equipped with heating and irrigation, can be used throughout the year. For such a greenhouse to work effectively, it is usually made of metal-plastic or aluminum structures and double-glazed windows, which are installed on the foundation.

This greenhouse is already a real capital building

To more easily provide heating and water delivery to the greenhouse premises, quite often such structures are attached to the southern wall of the house. In this case, the building will serve as a kind of winter garden, which at any time of the year will delight the owners not only with fresh vegetables and herbs, but also with the color of ornamental plants.

Sometimes greenhouses are added to the south side of the house, and they become real “winter gardens”

• Another option for a winter greenhouse, the design of which helps to save on heating costs, is a room that extends half its height into the ground. This structure, due to its high energy-saving qualities, is often called a “thermos greenhouse”. To achieve the desired effect, a pit is dug for this greenhouse, going 1600÷2000 mm deep into the ground. Additionally, walls 500÷700 mm high are erected above the ground surface, and then the entire structure is covered with a frame made of timber or a metal corner.

The work of constructing a building is quite labor-intensive and lengthy, but during its operation it will be possible to save enough on its heating system. One of the important points in the construction of a thermos greenhouse is the arrangement of not only a heating system, but also effective ventilation.

Greenhouse roof shape

The next criterion by which greenhouses are divided is the shape of the roof. Insolation, that is, high-quality lighting of the room, and therefore the creation of optimal conditions for growing plants, largely depends on this.

• Gable roof

Greenhouses with a gable roof can most often be found in suburban areas, since it is this shape that contributes to effective lighting of the room from above. Provided the greenhouse is located correctly, the sun will “work” all day long from sunrise to sunset, promoting plant growth.

“Classic” option - gable roof

Therefore, this design is often used to create winter versions of greenhouses, since at this time of year plants experience a lack of sunlight.

• Arched design

Arched structures are made of metal-plastic pipes or metal elements. The first ones are usually covered with polyethylene film, while the second option most often has a polycarbonate coating. Metal structures can be purchased ready-made, and all that remains is to assemble them on site. Well, a frame made of metal-plastic pipes is quite easy to make yourself.

The convenience of such a greenhouse lies not only in its maximum illumination, but also in the fact that snow and water do not accumulate on the arched roof, which means that the coating will not be subject to deformation due to heavy load. Again, you will not need to climb to a height to remove snow from its surface.

• Shed roof

One of the common options for a “serious” greenhouse is a strip foundation

• Under it, according to the markings, a pit-trench is dug, having a depth and width of 300 mm.
• Since the walls of the greenhouse are not as heavy as those of residential buildings, a foundation depth of 300 mm is sufficient to withstand relatively light loads.
• Above the ground, the base can be raised to a height of 200 to 500 mm, depending on whether the foundation will serve as walls or whether they will be made of brick.
• A sand cushion 50÷70 mm thick is placed and compacted into the finished trench, and crushed stone is poured on top of it with a layer of the same thickness and distributed.
• A formwork made of boards and timber is fixed along the trench, into which roofing material is laid, which will become an excellent waterproofing for the foundation.
• The next step is to fill the formwork with concrete, spread it, and then pierce it with a bayonet shovel and gently tap the formwork to remove air from the solution.
• If the frame is made from a metal corner or it is needed to secure wooden blocks, then sometimes support posts or sections of the corner can be immediately embedded in the foundation.

Basis for greenhouse-thermos

For a thermos greenhouse, it is necessary to dig a fairly deep pit, and if you plan to build an agricultural structure of a large area, you will have to use specialized equipment, since such manual work will take a lot of time.

• After marking the site, it is recommended to remove the top layer of fertile soil from it. After removal, the soil is piled up, because it is perfect for laying the finished greenhouse in the beds.
• When digging a pit, among the layers you can stumble upon clay, which also should not be mixed with the rest of the soil, as it can be useful for waterproofing walls or making adobe blocks for insulating a greenhouse.
• The pit is deepened so much that the gardener working in the greenhouse feels free, and there is quite a lot of free space above it. To ensure that the required temperature is maintained in the greenhouse and the soil does not freeze, it is recommended to deepen the pit by approximately 2000 mm.

If the pit is not deep enough, then you will have to raise the side walls, since it will be ideal when the total height of the pit corresponds to the height of the gardener.

• The width of the greenhouse is usually from two to five meters. If the room is made wider, it will quickly cool down, and lighting and heating will require a large amount of electricity. In addition, the design of a transparent dome would be too complex.
• When digging a pit, a ramp is installed on one side of it, where, along with the construction of the walls, a staircase of several steps and an entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed.
• To begin work on upgrading the walls, a base is made for them. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter inside the pit. After this, formwork is installed in it and the strip foundation is poured in the same way as in the case already discussed.
• After the foundation is ready, you can proceed to lining the walls with bricks or foam blocks. When masonry is being carried out, one or two ventilation pipes are immediately installed in the wall opposite to the entrance door, at a height of 400÷500 mm from the floor.

The ventilation pipe is brought outside and raised above the ground by 1000÷1500 mm.

• Separately, it is necessary to say about the laying, since in this case it is produced in a special way.

— To save on insulation, instead of bricks or foam blocks, which are not cheap, you can use clay extracted from a pit, which is mixed with chopped straw and adobe bricks are formed from this mixture.

— If you don’t want to waste time, and you have the opportunity to purchase foam blocks, which are called permanent formwork, then you can immediately get “bricks with insulation.” The blocks are hollow, and they are filled as they are installed on top of each other with concrete mortar. Having chosen the latter option, you will need to separate the foam wall from the ground surface of the pit with roofing material or plastic film.

After the solution in the blocks has hardened, a film or roofing felt is hooked onto it, and the gap remaining between the waterproofing material and the ground wall of the pit is filled with clay or a mixture of clay and soil, and while filling, it is periodically compacted.

— If brick is chosen for wall decoration, then it is insulated from the outside using polystyrene foam, which is mounted between the brick and soil wall. Thermal insulation material must also be protected with roofing felt. The resulting gap, just as in the first case, is filled with soil.

• If the walls rise above the ground by 400÷600 mm, then they also need to be insulated and waterproofed. If desired, the wall protruding above the ground can be finished with a decorative coating - this can be clinker tiles or plastic lining for outdoor use.
• If the walls are not high, then after waterproofing they can be sprinkled with a layer of expanded clay, which is covered on top with corrugated sheeting, which is fixed to the top of the wall. The corrugated sheeting will ensure the drainage of water that will drain from the greenhouse cover and keep the walls dry.

Wooden foundation

Another material for the foundation can be wood, or rather, a wooden beam with a cross-sectional size of 100×150 or 150×150 mm. This foundation is suitable for a greenhouse that is used seasonally - from spring to autumn.

In order for such a foundation to serve for a long time, the wood must be treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds and installed on a sandy, well-compacted cushion. Another option is to raise it above the ground using concrete slabs.

Construction of a thermos greenhouse

The installation of all greenhouses takes place differently, depending on the type of structure and the period of use of the structure, since “winter” options require a more careful approach and additional functions. It’s probably worth considering this, the most difficult option.

• After the walls are ready, you can proceed to installing the frame under the greenhouse cover.
• The frame is mounted from a metal profile or wooden beam.

• The first step is to attach a frame made of 100x150 mm timber to the walls of the greenhouse. Fixation is carried out with anchors or using embedded embedded elements.
• The rafter system must be assembled from timber of the same cross-section as the harness. To install the rafter legs, markings are carried out on the harness, since the rafter pairs must be distributed at the same distance from each other.
• The rafters are secured to the frame with metal corners, and in the upper part they are connected to each other using metal plates or using a ridge board.
• Wooden sheathing bars are fixed to the rafters, but with a fairly large step. There should be no more than two or three of them on each slope so that they do not block the sunlight.
• Polycarbonate sheets are laid on the sheathing, which are secured to it using special fasteners with bushings and rubber gaskets to prevent the possibility of leakage.

• Having completed the fastening of the covering material to the slopes, it is installed in the same way on the gable parts of the roof.
• After this, the door frame and the door itself are installed. It is desirable that the door leaf is also equipped with a transparent insert.

Creating optimal conditions for plants in the greenhouse

Greenhouse thermal insulation

In a greenhouse with a gable roof, one of its slopes must face the south side. It is recommended to finish the second side inside the greenhouse. Such a system will help not only retain heat, but even increase illumination inside the structure, since the sun, hitting the insulation foil, will be reflected into the room.

The insulation is fixed to the rafters with self-tapping screws, then it is folded onto the wall and glued to its surface using liquid nails. All the walls of the greenhouse are insulated in the same way, only the transparent southern slope is left uninsulated, and the western end transparent side of the structure can be left.

It should be noted that foil foamed polyethylene is an excellent vapor barrier membrane, and can not only enhance the lighting of the greenhouse, but also retain water vapor and carbon dioxide inside it, which are the main nutrient medium for photosynthesis, which determines the growth and development of plants.

In order to prevent heat from escaping from the greenhouse, it is necessary to create a reliable seal in the greenhouse space. To do this, be sure to install doors or valves on the ventilation openings, on which you can set the required gap as necessary or close them completely.

Greenhouse heating system

2. The infiltration coefficient depends on the difference between the external and internal temperatures in the greenhouse. You can use the following table:

3. Temperature inside the greenhouse (indicated in the formula t1), is usually taken equal to:

• For growing seedlings - + 25 ° C;
• For normal development of vegetable beds - + 18 °C.

If any exotic plants are grown, then the corresponding values ​​are adopted.

4. External temperature ( t2) are accepted based on the results of meteorological observations in a particular region - the minimum during the coldest week during the planned season of use of the greenhouse.

5. Thermal conductivity indicators ( wtp), that is, the amount of thermal energy that is transferred outward by a covering area of ​​1 m² with a temperature difference of 1 ° C, depends on the type of material and its thickness. The table below shows the values ​​for the most commonly used materials for covering stationary greenhouses:

Material	Thermal conductivity (W/m²×°C)
Glass:
- thickness 4 mm;	5.82
- thickness 6 mm;	5.77
- thickness 8 mm;	5.71
Monolithic polycarbonate sheet:
- thickness 4 mm;	5.33
- thickness 6 mm;	5.09
- thickness 8 mm;	4.84
Polycarbonate sheet honeycomb:
- thickness 4 mm;	3.6
- thickness 6 mm;	3.5
- thickness 8 mm;	3.3
- thickness 10 mm;	3.0
- thickness 16 mm;	2.4

Having all the necessary data, it will not be difficult to calculate the required electrical heating power of the greenhouse. It’s even easier to use the online calculator below.

They ceased to be some kind of inconvenient and ugly structures, but became a comfortable and nice building for growing some plants, in our case, mainly vegetables and fruits, which may need warmth.

Offered to choose from a huge number of different types of greenhouses with different functions and features.

How to choose a greenhouse so that its use brings only positive emotions? Which greenhouse is better?

What types of greenhouses are there? Photo

Total exists the three most important types of greenhouses and greenhouses, which are divided according to the tasks for which they were built:

• warm greenhouses are built primarily for plants that naturally require a tropical climate or a climate similar to it in air temperature.

Typically, the temperature in such buildings exceeds 18 degrees above zero Celsius, and various measures are also taken to humidify the air, since in places with a tropical climate there is usually also high humidity, without which some plants may simply not survive. Typically, such greenhouses have some devices or mechanisms that should artificially heat the air.

Infrared lamps are especially popular: mainly due to their low electricity requirements, as well as due to the fairly low price of these products on the market;

• semi-cold greenhouse keeps the temperature at the autumn-spring level of 10-13 degrees above zero Celsius.

In buildings of this type, most of all the crops that can be grown in our country usually grow: vegetables, fruits, and flowers. Not all of them, of course, but almost all plants that are not very demanding on the ambient temperature - that’s for sure.

One of the most important positive features of this type of greenhouse is that it will be relevant all year round, as it will be able to maintain the optimal temperature for the crops grown there in absolutely any weather. Moreover, just one simple infrared lamp is enough for this. If in the previous case you could still think about the price, then here you can certainly afford one inexpensive lamp;

• the last type of greenhouse, cold, is suitable only for hardening off certain crops or growing vegetables that are definitely ready for a cold climate, for example, beets or onions.

You may be wondering why make a greenhouse in which the air temperature will be low, because you can just plant it outside.

In fact, no, in winter the soil usually freezes, and besides, in cold greenhouses there must be a fairly high temperature, above zero, but below ten degrees, so that the plants simply do not freeze along with the soil in which they were planted.

Forms

In addition to the main tasks and crops that you can grow in a particular greenhouse, these buildings divided into several types according to their shape:




Variety of greenhouses

There is also a huge number of features and details when creating greenhouses. Usually, all of them, except those listed above, do not greatly affect the quality of the building, but they can have a very good effect on its appearance and become an additional decoration for your hacienda.

However, in order to choose the correct shape, height and other parameters of the greenhouse, you should not look for advice, just think for yourself, what will be more pleasant for you to see on your site, because in this case everything is limited by your imagination.

Models available for purchase

Below are the greenhouse models that you can buy. You can read more about each model and choose the most suitable one for yourself:

1. from Basagroplast.
2. made of polycarbonate.
3. Portable greenhouse
4. - the best protection for seedlings.
5. for the dacha.
6. And from this you will find out what kind of greenhouse is needed for growing strawberries, radishes and vegetables.

Variety of materials for construction

What materials can be used for greenhouses and greenhouses?

In fact, to build a regular amateur greenhouse for your garden, you won’t need huge amounts of money and a bunch of other resources. You just need two materials: a frame and a covering material.

For frame You can use wood, metal, plastic, and much more. Undoubtedly, the most effective material for creating a frame is a galvanized profile.

Those frames that were made from it are usually the least likely to break and are also less susceptible to weather conditions. While wood will usually rot after several rains without having time to dry, and plastic will break completely, especially if strong winds blow very often in your area.

Covering material you can choose not so corrosively, because both glass and polycarbonate, which is usually used by all experienced gardeners to create greenhouses, usually have almost the same properties. So when you go to the store to buy a “roof” for your greenhouse, you can only focus on the price - the quality is approximately the same.

Do not use plastic film as a covering material, because it can be damaged by the wind, and generally does not last long.

In our country, gardening occupies a fairly high place and it is great that you want to do something useful for yourself. I really hope that this article will be useful for all lovers of growing plants and you will be able to build the greenhouse you want.

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There are a lot of options for organizing closed ground, but which greenhouse design will be the best in a particular case - here you need to thoroughly understand. Every farmer with imagination can improve the classic version and thus invent his own greenhouse, but if the basic requirements are not taken into account and the calculations of professionals are not taken into account, the early harvest may be in jeopardy.

Main types of greenhouses by design

Traditional arched shape

Greenhouses differ from each other in shape, size, presence of a foundation, frame and covering materials. To choose the best option for yourself, you need to consider all existing types of greenhouses and their designs. The difference lies not only in functionality, but also in ease of installation, cost and compactness. Only after assessing all these parameters can you begin to make a choice.

Greenhouse-arch – simplicity of design and installation

The most popular and easy-to-use option is an arched greenhouse, which is a lightweight frame of several arches connected by transverse elements. This type is economical, since the semicircular shape allows you to significantly save coating material.

Small arch covered with film

The versatility of this type of greenhouse lies in the fact that it is equally good both in a mini-format for a summer cottage and in an industrial version for growing vegetables in large quantities. The design is considered one of the most reliable and durable. The main advantages of the arch greenhouse:

• the ability to add or remove any number of sections;
• snow does not linger on the coating;
• You can assemble a greenhouse-arch with your own hands without complex calculations;
• low cost of materials.

This type of greenhouse also has disadvantages, which should not be forgotten:

• it is impossible to use glass;
• The space inside cannot always be used rationally.

The arched design does not allow placing racks or shelves on the walls. The height of the room is not the same, which does not allow growing plants of the same height throughout the entire area.

It is best suited for low and medium-sized crops. In this case, the entire heated volume is not used. Therefore, this type of greenhouse requires high heating costs.

Large arched greenhouse

For ventilation of arched greenhouses, an entrance door is used, and in large buildings additional ventilation windows and transoms are installed. If the frame and covering are made of lightweight materials, and the greenhouse itself is not very large, during installation you can do without a stationary foundation.

Long reinforcement bars are installed at the ends of the arches, which are attached to the ground. Larger greenhouses require installation on a foundation.

Single-pitch or adjoining structure

For home use, it is advisable to build greenhouses adjacent to another building. Another popular and simple greenhouse design is a lean-to greenhouse. Such a model can be built near a house or any outbuilding. A lean-to greenhouse consists of one inclined plane adjacent to a supporting wall. Thanks to this support, the costs of the greenhouse frame are significantly reduced.

Location near a brick wall

Another advantage of a lean-to structure is thermal insulation. Brick, wood, concrete wall – it doesn’t matter. In any case, the thermal insulation properties of the wall material are better than those of polyethylene film or glass. Thus, much less heat is lost in a heated adjacent greenhouse.

The disadvantages of a single-pitch design are as follows:

• insufficient lighting;
• Due to design features, snow often accumulates on the roof, which can damage the coating.

The main problem is low light. During construction, it is necessary to take into account the location of the building relative to the cardinal directions. It is unacceptable to build an adjacent greenhouse on the north side of the building.

Greenhouse-house - vertical walls and gable roof

A greenhouse with vertical walls and a gable roof is popularly called a “house”. The structure consists of two rectangular side walls and two pentagonal end walls. The roof is made of two inclined planes.

Classic "house" made of polycarbonate

Advantages of this configuration:

• significantly larger usable area compared to a gable greenhouse;
• convenience of placing utility racks and shelves on vertical walls;
• ease of ventilation (it is very easy to place windows and vents in vertical walls).

The main disadvantage of this design is the complexity of installation. To build such a greenhouse you will have to make a detailed calculation. The base is not very wide, therefore, in the absence of a foundation, the structure will not be stable enough.

A large number of joints implies poor sealing. Because of this, cracks can form and, as a result, drafts. To prevent such miscalculations, you need to treat the greenhouse drawing with full responsibility.

The Dutch greenhouse is a type of gable “house”. The difference is that the walls in this model are not strictly vertical, but are located at a slight slope. Such modernization significantly increases the sustainability of this greenhouse design.

Dutch industrial greenhouse

The disadvantage is the difficulty of installing shelves on sloping walls. However, if we take into account the fact that the configuration has better light transmission, this small drawback can be neglected.

An option to solve the problem of a gable greenhouse is to use flowerpots. Since the standard gable structure has a height of more than 2.5 m, hanging pots with plants at the top is very convenient.

Mini-greenhouses - ideal greenhouses for seedlings

At home, mini-greenhouses are most often used. They can come in different shapes and are made from different materials. You can see greenhouses covered with glazed window frames, which can be found on the farm of any summer resident.

Miniature greenhouses are placed not only on the site, but also in rooms, well-lit basements and even on the balcony. There is no need to heat such a greenhouse. Its main function is to extend the growing season of plants. That is, fruiting begins several weeks earlier and ends later.

There are several popular varieties of mini-structures for greenhouses. For example, a pyramid greenhouse is a pyramid with a square at the base. There is even an opinion that this form contributes to the concentration of positive cosmic energy with all the ensuing consequences for the harvest. Whether this is true or not is unknown for sure, but the pyramid looks quite impressive.

Rectangular pyramid for better harvest

A cloche is a glass greenhouse structure consisting of two panels. It is mobile and moves around the area depending on which plant needs protection at the moment. The greenhouse effect in this option is not very pronounced, but protection from the wind is provided. And this is also important for young shoots.

Most often, mini-greenhouses are a box made of edged boards, which is covered with transparent material or a glazed frame. This type is convenient because it can be placed anywhere on the site and even put away in the utility room for the winter.

Mini-greenhouse for a summer residence

Underground or buried structure

It is known that in winter the ground freezes slowly. At an air temperature of ±1°C, the soil temperature at a depth of 1 meter is about 10°C. When setting up a greenhouse, one cannot help but take advantage of this natural bonus. For construction, you must first dig a hole, 1 to 1.5 m deep, and install a transparent coating on top.

Greenhouse-thermos on site

One of the options for a recessed greenhouse is an improved design - a thermos greenhouse, which provides even greater indoor temperature and illumination even in cloudy weather. For a thermos greenhouse, you need to build a reinforced concrete foundation. The coating is often double-layered. Inside, the walls are covered with reflective paint or other material that acts as a solar energy collector.

The disadvantage of this variety is that it is difficult to organize proper drainage in the underground part.

A large in-ground greenhouse takes quite a long time to build due to the need to dig a pit. In addition, you will have to take care of steps at the entrance, waterproofing and protection from pests, which implies additional costs.

Sophisticated Advanced Greenhouses

Considering the designs of greenhouses and their types, one cannot fail to mention such outstanding developments as the American greenhouse according to Mittleider, Ivanov’s solar vegetarian or a dome-shaped greenhouse. These ideas became simply innovative in their time and served as an impetus for the development of farming and agriculture in general.

Unusual greenhouse designs

American greenhouse - the developments of J. Mittleider

The main problem with large greenhouses is lack of ventilation. Often it is provided only by the front door, which is extremely insufficient. Plants become too hot, humid and literally can’t breathe. The solution to this issue turned out to be very simple. It was found by the American gardener J. Mittleider.

Its innovation lies in the fact that the roof of the greenhouse is arranged on two levels.

And at the junction of the two halves of the roof, a free space is formed, where transoms for ventilation fit perfectly. The structure can be arched or gable with vertical walls. In both cases, ventilation is very easy to provide. The frame is traditionally made of wood.

The classic version according to Mitlider - construction

In addition to good air exchange, the advantages of Mitlider's design are as follows:

• simplicity of design and installation;
• reliability, thanks to cross beams and braces;
• the ability to build a collapsible version;
• no condensation due to wooden frame.

Geodesic sphere - dome on the site

The original spherical greenhouse looks very unusual on the site. The structure itself is already a decoration of the garden and can serve as a striking element of landscape design. The greenhouse dome is assembled like a construction set from triangular elements. It is noteworthy that the coating is self-supporting and does not require any supports or frames, including a foundation.

Advantages of the geodetic sphere:

• light weight;
• the shape of the room ensures good air circulation;
• good illumination of the greenhouse from all sides;
• the aerodynamic shape resists even the strongest winds.

The disadvantages of this model are:

• complexity of manufacturing and installation;
• the entire volume is not used, as in the arched version;
• It is difficult to adapt curved walls for shelves and racks.

Geodesic sphere under polyethylene

Solar vegetarian for plants

The brilliant invention of the Soviet scientist Ivanov is a solar vegetarian. This building doubles the illumination of the greenhouse without additional lamps. In addition, the air temperature rises without heating costs.

The greenhouse can be an option for an adjacent greenhouse or built separately. But in the latter case, you will have to build a permanent wall. When building Ivanov’s vegetarian garden, it is necessary to take into account the position of the compass needle. The blank wall must be north - this is a prerequisite.

In addition, the natural slope of the terrain is taken into account. Ideally, the vegetarian garden will be located on a southern slope with a slope of 15 to 35 degrees. If there is no such slope, it will have to be created artificially. The roof of the greenhouse and its floor should be parallel to each other. To ensure the stability of the greenhouse structure, you need to build a strong foundation.

The main secret of this greenhouse is the reflective mirror coating on the north wall. The reflector will double the amount of sunlight. This innovation has a good effect on the harvest and does not require additional costs.

Freestanding vegetarian

Advantages of Ivanov's solar vegetarian diet:

• good lighting;
• good natural heating;
• saving on energy costs.

Design disadvantages:

• complexity of installation;
• high cost of building materials;
• stationarity.

Sliding roof – ventilation without problems

Greenhouses with a sliding roof combine all the advantages of the arched type, but, at the same time, eliminate some of their disadvantages. The design is a conventional greenhouse with a roof of two halves. The roof structure uses a special sliding roller mechanism, which allows you to open the greenhouse if necessary.

Great solution for a greenhouse

The advantages of the system are as follows:

• summer heat is not terrible for plants, this is especially true in spring, when the temperature drops sharply at night;
• good ventilation is ensured;
• Easy to clean the greenhouse from snow thanks to the opening mechanism.

Types of greenhouses by materials

When choosing a greenhouse, you need to consider not only its shape. The material from which it is made plays a very important role. This affects the reliability of the greenhouse, its cost, and many other nuances. Consider the main types of building materials that are used to construct a greenhouse before making your final choice.

Wooden frame - a common option

Types of frames depending on material

The frame is the basis of the greenhouse. It is made from different materials and their combinations. It all depends on the location where the structure will be located, operating conditions, financial capabilities of the owner and the availability of a construction team for the work.

Main frame materials:

• tree;
• metallic profile;
• galvanized pipe;
• polypropylene pipes;
• metal-plastic pipes.

Each of these options is good in certain cases. Wood is a cheap and easy to process material. But its durability is not the highest. The metal is very durable, but it promotes the formation of condensation drops, which is very harmful to plants. The same applies to galvanized pipes, but they are better than steel because they do not require anti-corrosion treatment.

It is cheaper and easier to make a greenhouse from plastic or metal-plastic pipes. The construction will be light and will not require a capital reinforced concrete foundation, like a metal frame. But, unfortunately, metal-plastic pipes do not withstand difficult weather conditions very well.

Greenhouse frame made of PVC pipes

Polypropylene pipes are a favorite option for a greenhouse frame by many farmers. This is an affordable and lightweight material. Polypropylene itself is warm, which is a guarantee against the appearance of unwanted condensation. You can even install a small greenhouse from pipes alone.

Types of greenhouse covering materials

If the frame guarantees the stability and strength of the greenhouse, then the covering material guarantees illumination and warmth. The most popular materials for covering greenhouses used in agriculture:

• glass;
• polycarbonate;
• polyethylene film;
• agrofibre;
• PVC film.

Glass is a traditional material for organizing closed ground. It is transparent, but does not transmit enough sunlight in the optimal spectrum for plants. In addition, glass is very fragile, difficult to install and is relatively expensive.

It is much more rational to use sheets of cellular polycarbonate. It transmits light well and is durable due to its structure. The sheets are produced in large sizes, which makes installation quicker and easier. Polycarbonate copes well with the task assigned to the greenhouse covering - it retains heat and transmits enough light.

The easiest material to install and use is film, which is also the cheapest. Modern industry has long coped with all the disadvantages of polyethylene. Films are no longer afraid of direct exposure to sunlight. Strength is provided by the mesh frame. The film transmits sunlight well, but breaks easily - this is its main drawback.

As you can see, to build a greenhouse, you need to analyze a lot of information. If this fact discourages you, you can always resort to ready-made copies produced at the factory. In this case, you will only need to decide on the size and location on your site where the greenhouse will be installed.

Greenhouses today can be presented not only in a variety of shapes, but also in sizes and, accordingly, designs. Thanks to this, they are able to satisfy the wishes of most gardeners. It is usually difficult for a novice gardener to navigate the design of greenhouses offered on the gardening equipment market. Therefore, when choosing a greenhouse, you first need to take into account its purpose in the garden and the amount allocated for its purchase or construction. In addition, before purchasing this product, it is necessary to take a serious and high-quality approach to the process of measuring the area reserved for planting a particular fruit crop. When this calculation is made, it should be taken into account that the cultivated plants are products planted in the greenhouse in length and width.

To make the calculation, it is also necessary to take into account how much space the door and equipment will occupy, for example, for a container of water for irrigation or heating a greenhouse. In some cases, the usable area must also be calculated by calculating the height of the scallop and eaves of the greenhouse. This must be determined in order to grow tall crops in a greenhouse, such as tomatoes, shrubs, vines, to ensure access to them. The larger the size of the greenhouse, the cheaper the usable area of ​​the block.

Beginning gardeners often buy greenhouses, which over time cannot fully perform their functions. Therefore, if maintenance is limited by financial capabilities, it is better to take a greenhouse that provides an additional power connection.

Most often, large greenhouses are installed separately from the house, but you can attach it to one of the walls of the house or any other structure on the site. The roof shape can be flat, single or gable.

The minimum sizes of greenhouses are represented by the following indicators. To facilitate access to the greenhouse, its height can be approximately 165 cm, with the ridge placed at a height of 240 cm from the ground. For the door, an opening is left 180 cm high and 60 cm wide. If you plan to drive into the greenhouse with a wheelbarrow, the door can be widened to 1 m. It will be possible to enter it in a wheelchair.

Main types of greenhouses

Currently, the following 2 greenhouse structures remain the most common and popular among most summer residents: arched and hipped. They differ from each other in their roofs. Tent greenhouses are assembled from separate blocks, their height, as a rule, reaches 200-250 cm, width - no more than 300 cm. The length of this structure is completely determined by the number of those same blocks. These sizes are considered the most convenient for most gardeners.

Arched structures look like a kind of tunnel with transparent walls. They are formed from parallel arcs that connect to each other. They must be installed along the entire length of the structure and closed at the ends with flat walls.

Prefabricated greenhouse blocks usually have a length of no more than 200 cm, and an average height of 120 cm. Thanks to this, the process of installing such greenhouses is greatly facilitated, but at the same time, you can quickly increase the length of this structure with your own hands at any time.

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Greenhouses made of polycarbonate

Today, materials such as polycarbonate are used much more often than others. This process turns out to be much easier, and the material is stronger than glass. The resulting bend increases the resistance of the building to damage. Accordingly, this material is especially useful in construction.

If we consider the design of a greenhouse from the point of view of ease of working in it, then, of course, arched greenhouses will benefit.

These structures on the site look more attractive and have more space inside, so the volume of air in them is also greater.

And this plays an important role in the process of growing various fruit crops.

Therefore, if you are going to spend a lot of time working in the greenhouse, it is better to choose an arch. In addition, the flexibility of polycarbonate makes it possible to cover the entire frame of the greenhouse and not remove the covering even for the winter period. you will spend only a small amount of time during one season, and all other years it will remain in its original form, you will not have to worry about the fact that you will not have time to properly prepare everything for the summer season.

At the same time, the polycarbonate sheets can be detached from the frame at any time in order to provide the plants with access to intense air if necessary, for example, if it is necessary to dry the soil, and then this sheet can be quickly and easily attached back.

On the other hand, tented greenhouses also have their advantages. Their long walls can be inclined inward at an angle of 10-15 degrees, which can greatly improve the storage of solar energy in winter. If it is scorching and very hot outside, then it will be necessary to ensure good air conditioning without creating drafts.

This can only be done with the help of ventilation holes, which are located in tented greenhouses under the dome, where all the hot air accumulates. Therefore, a tented greenhouse structure with vents appears to be a more suitable configuration. Whereas arched greenhouses have holes at the ends so they are not able to effectively remove all the hot air from the top of the greenhouse. Some people don't make any vents and just open the door. But greenhouse plants suffer greatly from this.

Thus, it is impossible to give an exact answer to the question of which greenhouse designs are suitable for growing plants.

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Round and polygonal greenhouses

Before building greenhouses, it makes sense to determine the types of plants that you plan to grow in them and the frequency of their growth. Depending on this, two more types of greenhouses can be distinguished, which may be suitable for growing plants seasonally or permanently (throughout the year). These types include round and polygonal greenhouses. A number of modern greenhouse designs are characterized by curved glass panels. Round shapes are attractive and can decorate any garden area. And it is precisely these designs that allow you to grow even very tall plants in the central aisle, while low-growing forms can be planted on the sides.

This is an excellent option for combining several types of fruit crops. There are also small-sized varieties of these structures. Sometimes they are made of welded structures, which are covered with various materials - film, glass and the same polycarbonate. The greenhouse can be completely covered with insulation, or its individual elements - walls or ceilings - can be subject to this procedure, while the remaining parts are sheathed with boards, iron or brickwork.

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Placing shelving inside a metal or wooden greenhouse

Each type of greenhouse, as already mentioned, has its own advantages. and their choice depends entirely on how much the positive aspects outweigh the negative ones. So, if plants are grown above ground, then they need more light, so they need fully glazed greenhouses. If most crops are intended to be grown underground, the greenhouse will need shelving so the bottom of the greenhouse walls can be solid. It can be made of brick, filled with concrete or mounted from iron. Walls made half of wood or asbestos and half of brick have good thermal insulation properties. Additional protection from the cold without a noticeable decrease in light intensity is provided by installing a greenhouse on the south side, and planting heat-loving plants in it closer to the north wall. Some greenhouse designs include removable wood insulation panels. They are installed in winter to protect walls made of glass or film from damage. There are a number of factors to consider when choosing a greenhouse. Among them, the following stands out:

• free access to plants;
• durability and productivity of the greenhouse.

Do not forget about the influence of climatic features on the choice of greenhouse. So, for example, in areas with strong winds, the quality of growing greenhouse plants under film is significantly reduced. Ease of access to vegetables is ensured by a certain structure and design of the door and the height of the greenhouse in its different areas. Transparency of the coating is important not only in cool seasons, but also in summer. It must be taken into account that sometimes the amount of light passing through a particular material is much greater than what plants need. Therefore, you need to learn to avoid extremes when choosing film and glass.

CONTENT
Purpose and types of greenhouses..... 5
Main structural elements.... 6
Greenhouse structures.... 7
Requests and costs..... 12
Please note: Greenhouse Alternatives..... 14

TYPES AND DESIGNS OF GREENHOUSES. Page 4.

You can grow flowers, fruits, berries and vegetables without a greenhouse, but this simple structure can change your entire gardening experience. And not only because you will be growing plants throughout the year (or from early spring to late autumn), regardless of climatic and weather conditions. The number of crops and methods of their cultivation will expand significantly.

Purpose and types of greenhouses. Page 5.

Even if your gardening experience is very limited, don't be embarrassed. Growing plants in closed ground is not much more difficult than in open ground, if you know how to provide proper lighting, the required even temperature and natural air exchange.

Crops are grown in greenhouses that cannot be grown in open ground throughout the entire year or part of the gardening season due to their inability to cope with local weather conditions. Greenhouses are used for germinating seeds, rooting cuttings, forcing bulbs, growing seedlings, and maintaining indoor ornamental plants.

For example, it is better to plant the seeds of tomatoes, sweet peppers, cucumbers and eggplants in greenhouses, so that later they can either be transplanted into open ground or left indoors. Here they are protected not only from the cold, but also from wind and rain, and therefore bear fruit better.

Only in a heated greenhouse can you grow evergreen subtropical and tropical crops, such exotic plants as orchids, which require not only warmth, but also high humidity.

Many indoor plants simply survive on our windowsills, and only in a greenhouse their beauty is fully revealed. You can use the greenhouse as a “storage” for your flower collection, placing faded plants in it and bringing those about to bloom indoors.

TEMPERATURE REGIME
Greenhouses are divided into unheated and heated (cold, moderately warm and warm).

UNHEATED GREENHOUSES.
They are the most economical, but the possibilities they provide are limited to growing some crops, such as lettuce, radishes, tomatoes and cucumbers, in early spring and late autumn or throughout the gardening season.

If you want to get the most out of your greenhouse, consider year-round heating. When growing tropical and subtropical ornamental and fruit plants, you cannot do without it.

COLD GREENHOUSES.
In winter, the air temperature in them should not be less than +7 ° C, the lower limit for most heat-loving plants such as citrus fruits, pelargonium and ornamental bananas. Otherwise you will have to cover them with garden fleece.

MODERATELY WARM GREENHOUSES.
The minimum temperature maintained in them (+13 ° C) is required by tropical plants such as hipeastrum, streptocarpus, and begonias. poinsettia (euphorbia pulchemma) and many orchids. Less exotic plants will already be too warm here.

WARM GREENHOUSES (GREENHOUSES).
Here the temperature should not be lower than +18 ° C, which is necessary for some varieties of orchids, heat-loving plants such as stephanotis and gloxinia (Sinningia), as well as a number of plants with decorative foliage, such as coleus (Solenostemon).

Basic design elements. Page 6.

Greenhouses are fairly simple structures, especially the most common ones, with an aluminum profile frame. But it's worth paying attention to the details before purchasing or building a greenhouse to ensure you make the right choice. Differences in basic structural elements, such as doors, transoms, and roofing, which may seem insignificant at first glance, often have a significant impact on ease of use and artificial climate.

Frame. The frame is mounted from a wooden or metal (for example, aluminum) profile that forms a frame for the glass. Separately, its racks and other components are not very strong, so they must be carefully adjusted, and the fasteners must be periodically checked and straightened.

Door. The best choice is a sliding door: you can leave it open while ventilating the greenhouse without fear of it slamming shut. It takes up less space, which is important in a small garden. The width of the doorway must be at least 90 cm, and more to bring a wheelbarrow into the greenhouse.

Base. This is not a required element, but it raises the glazed panels above the ground and serves as a foundation. To increase strength, however, it would not be superfluous to use brickwork, especially if the greenhouse is installed on the ground.

Glass. Typically sheet glass of standard sizes is used. Replacing broken large glasses is more expensive, so it makes sense to choose smaller glasses.

Transoms on the walls. For air circulation, you need at least a pair of transom-blinds, which you won’t hit, like open transoms on hinges, when going around the greenhouse, but the shutters are more difficult to close tightly to protect from the cold.

Transoms on the roof. As a rule, they open outwards upward, allowing heat to escape and increasing air circulation. Ideally, each roof slope should have one or two transoms, with a total area approximately equal to one-sixth of the floor area.

Unbreakable panels. They can be attached around the entire perimeter of the greenhouse or just on the door.

Gutters and rain barrel. Gutters remove moisture from the base of the greenhouse and allow it to be collected in a barrel.

Greenhouse structures. Page 6.

Today you can purchase greenhouses of various sizes and designs, with a metal or wooden frame, covered with glass, film or polycarbonate. You can choose a purely utilitarian structure made of aluminum or a whimsical retro design in the style of a Victorian greenhouse, with all its decor. They have one purpose, but the price and ease of use are different.

DESIGN
When choosing a greenhouse, significant attention must be paid to its design, evaluating it not only from an aesthetic, but also from a functional point of view.

Gable and wall greenhouses
Gable greenhouses, rectangular, with vertical walls and a gable roof, have become widespread. And there are reasons for this: a considerable planting area, maximum illumination, ease of caring for plants. A gable roof provides sufficient height to the structure, especially in the middle where you are most likely to move, and increases the stability and strength of the structure.

As a rule, these are free-standing structures, but you can also build a wall-mounted greenhouse with a three-quarter slope or, if space is very limited, a lean-to greenhouse. And they are very practical in terms of the ratio of planting area and working space, but they are often more expensive, and they need to be built against a wall or fence, which complicates the construction. On the other hand, by attaching the greenhouse to the wall of the house, you can make sure that they communicate, and even install central heating in the greenhouse. In addition, it is convenient to attach racks for pots and wire supports for climbing plants to a wall or fence.

Dutch greenhouse
The Dutch greenhouse has slightly angled walls, which increases light at the base, helps retain heat, and stabilizes the structure. It is convenient to grow low-growing plants in wall beds, but it is difficult to build supports for plants. In addition, large glazed panels are not cheap.

Domes

Recently, domes, or biomes, have come back into fashion, in which throughout the day several panels are located at the correct angle to the sun's rays, which significantly increases the illumination. They are very attractive, but they are expensive and fewer traditional greenhouses are suitable for growing tall plants. In addition, standard shelving, benches and other furnishings are not suitable for them.

On a note.
Leave passages near glass greenhouses that are wide enough to avoid squeezing past them and risking breaking the glass.

Greenhouse with curved roof
Some greenhouses, including wall-mounted ones, have a curved roof. This design provides more light and looks less utilitarian than standard models, but it is much more expensive. Essentially, the roof is not curved: each next row of panels is located at a certain angle to the previous one. There are also freestanding greenhouses with curved walls, but they are not as common.

Polygonal greenhouse
Polygonal greenhouses look more impressive than rectangular ones, and are a good choice for a small garden when a small indoor structure is required. They combine decorativeness with functionality. The simplest variety is octagonal with a multi-pitched roof. There can be more angles if you don’t stand behind the price, giving free rein to your imagination - for example, for buildings in the form of a miniature pagoda.

Polygonal greenhouses are not as practical as rectangular ones. If the plants are planted in the ground, your freedom of movement when bending towards them will be limited. And if you place them on shelves at waist level, a lot of space under them will be wasted. However, such greenhouses provide good illumination, and the plants feel comfortable in them. They are especially good for exhibitions of plant collections.

Dimensions
The size of the greenhouse should be such that it is convenient for you to care for plants and so that it is in harmony with the garden landscape. Sometimes it is advised to figure out what they should be like and purchase a greenhouse that is obviously large in size. You will immediately find many more uses for it than you planned. However, there are more practical approaches.

First of all, measure the area you have. Provide space for a passage outside all the walls of the greenhouse, ideally 1.5 m wide, but at worst 1.2 m will do. Think about what you will do in this space. It’s one thing if you only intend to go around the greenhouse from time to time to wash the glass, and quite another if you’re going to maneuver a wheelbarrow or lawn mower in the aisle. (We will talk about this in more detail on pp. 17-20.)

Next, think about height. For comfortable work, it is necessary that you can move around the greenhouse without hindrance and stand up to your full height in most of its part. A height of about 1.5 m at the eaves of the roof will result in a height of 2.2 m below the ridge.

If you are short, you can lower the skate a little, but the specified height is most convenient for work. Greenhouses of this height are better lit and allow you to grow tall plants.

LIMITED IN FUNDS?
Beware of very cheap mini-greenhouses with lightweight tubular frames and polyethylene coverings. They can be useful for propagating plants in protected areas of the garden, but they are inconvenient to use and there is not enough working space in them. In addition, they are not particularly durable.

FRAME MATERIAL

Aluminum and wood are the most widely used materials for greenhouse frames. More expensive vinyl plastic (unplasticized polyvinyl chloride) is also used.

Aluminum
The aluminum frame, which is light and relatively strong, is quite thin and casts less shadow. It does not require special care - a big plus for the always busy gardener. It is usually supplied unpainted, silver-grey, but painted frames are also available. Unfortunately, the struts of cheap models bend easily, which reduces the strength of the structure. Choose a strong frame with a large number of struts. If necessary, strengthen it yourself.

Tree
Wood is a traditional material, and it is undeniably more attractive than aluminum. And if you want to make half of the wall from a material that retains heat more reliably than glass, choose wood; it will look best. It is easier to attach custom-made shelves and plant supports to a wooden frame than to an aluminum frame.

However, the tree needs constant care, since in the dampness of greenhouses it rots and is affected by fungus and microscopic algae. Drainage improves the situation somewhat, but it is necessary to regularly inspect the frame and take immediate measures against wood rotting.

Viniplast
There are greenhouses with a frame made of vinyl plastic pipes that do not require special care. They are more expensive, but worth the splurge, especially if you plan to propagate greenhouse-grown plants.

ON A NOTE
Some manufacturers offer greenhouses with an aluminum frame, which is indistinguishable from wood, but these structures are not cheap.

COATING MATERIAL
COMPARATIVE LIGHT TRANSMISSANCE AND THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY OF GREENHOUSE COATINGS

One of the most important elements of a greenhouse is the covering. The figures below show how much light (straight arrows) different materials let into the greenhouse and how much heat they give off (wavy arrows).

Along with the traditional material - glass - cellular polycarbonate, acrylic and polyethylene film are used as coverings for greenhouses.

Glass
Greenhouse glass is thinner than regular window glass, and therefore allows more light to pass through. If it didn't break, it could last forever. It is easy to install and clean. Glazing can be double. It retains heat well, but is more expensive and transmits light worse.

Cellular polycarbonate
This is a very common and inexpensive material. Its sheets consist of two thin plates with bridges, separated by air-filled cells, honeycombs. The jumpers give it rigidity, and air bubbles make it a good heat insulator. It is light and strong, but transmits less light than glass, a problem that only gets worse over time.

Acrylic
Acrylic has properties similar to polycarbonate, and due to its flexibility, it is often used for decorative elements, such as curved cornices. Acrylic, however, is fragile, easily scratched, and becomes cloudy over time.

Polyethylene film
The polyethylene used for arched greenhouses is cheap, transmits light well and retains heat, but over time its properties deteriorate greatly.

Requests and costs. Page 12.

You now have enough information to decide what the size and design of your greenhouse should be. However, it would be useful to compare your requests with the cost of the greenhouses you like. Don't let your prejudices get the better of you until you've considered all your options.

EVALUATE YOUR INTENTIONS
Ask yourself why you need a greenhouse. If you just want to grow seedlings, you can get by with indoor window sills and a couple of cold greenhouses. If you dream of providing yourself with vegetables or own a huge collection of cacti, from which there will soon be nowhere to set foot at home, a greenhouse will be very useful to you.

With proper care, it can become the heart of the garden, your creative laboratory.

THINK ABOUT THE FUTURE
Before you spend money, you should also think about how far in time your plans extend. There is no point in purchasing a greenhouse that is not cheap if you intend to move next year. Disassembling and transporting a greenhouse is not the easiest or most enjoyable procedure. That’s why in private advertisements for the sale of used greenhouses they write: “Self-disassembly and pickup.” (On the other hand, by purchasing a used greenhouse, you will be able to inspect it in working order, assess conditions, and determine what is missing or broken.)

LOOK FOR INSPIRATION
They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. If you are planning to start your own greenhouse, do not be lazy to visit others. For example, those where flower exhibitions are held, or greenhouses at nurseries and gardening stores. Ask friends and acquaintances who garden. Gardeners are usually very willing to share their experiences, and you will be able to identify all the pros and cons of various designs just by mentioning them.

COMPARE PRICES
Select several similar models and see what they come with, determining what you will have to buy in addition. Some manufacturers offer shelving, additional ventilation transoms, gutters, flooring, etc. in addition to greenhouses. Take a look at what is offered. The purchase may be profitable, or you may want to purchase similar devices elsewhere.

Carefully study the cheapest models: there are always reasons for a low price; perhaps it is more profitable to pay more, but get a stronger and more durable greenhouse, in which you will be happy to work.

Some companies deliver and install their greenhouses themselves. The cost will inevitably increase, but you will be sure that the assemblers will sort out all the small details and breakdowns before leaving you with your purchase. If you are used to achieving perfection in everything or have your own views on installing a greenhouse, you may enjoy assembling it yourself. However, remember: if you did not buy a mini-greenhouse, assembly is not a task for one person.

ON A NOTE
If you're not the only one in your family who enjoys gardening, make sure there's enough space for everyone in the household to get creative. Otherwise, it’s as if they wouldn’t push you away from your greenhouse.

COUNT THE HIDDEN COSTS
Purchasing a greenhouse often entails many expenses that you did not expect. For example, if you want to run electricity and water into the greenhouse, this will inevitably increase costs, as will the construction of the foundation and walkways. Add here irrigation systems, automatic mechanisms for opening transoms and blinds, which will greatly facilitate your work. And also blackout curtains, heaters, thermometers, thermal insulation - the list is endless.

GREENHOUSE SELECTION CRITERIA
Dimensions - make sure they meet your needs and plans.
Cost - find out exactly what is included in the cost of the greenhouse.
Functionality - make sure the greenhouse serves its purpose.
Ease of use - check transoms, doors, unbreakable panels, gutters, look for places for shelves and other items you will need.
Design - There is no point in buying a greenhouse if you don't like the look of it.

Please note: Greenhouse Alternatives. Page 14.

If for some reason - due to lack of space or funds - you do not want to start a greenhouse, but would like to expand your collection of plants and the arsenal of ways to grow them, look for other opportunities, of which there are many. They range from growing plants on home windowsills to setting up winter gardens, where it’s so nice to have a cup of tea on a cold day.

Choose plants that will do well on your windowsill or in the winter garden, and you will be guaranteed a colorful look for the whole year.

WINDOW SILLS
Growing plants on a windowsill is the most accessible and cheapest way. A wide, well-lit (but not sunny) windowsill is suitable for germinating seeds, and if it is spacious, then also for growing delicate herbs like basil and a number of indoor flowering plants. Perhaps a propagator (a container with a transparent lid and electrical heating) will fit on it, and if not, you can germinate seeds here in a tray, under glass or plastic. The main disadvantage of window sills is that the light only falls in one direction. However, it is easy to periodically turn the plants so that they do not pull in one direction.

WINTER GARDENS
The winter garden is an excellent place for growing and displaying plants. However, as a rule, it contains upholstered furniture and various household utensils, which complicates watering and makes it impossible to moisten the floor to increase air humidity. Often this is one of the home rooms that communicates with other rooms, and in the heat, which threatens the plants with heat shock, you cannot leave it open. If there is special glass in the windows that reduces the brightness of sunlight for our convenience, this does not have the best effect on the plants. On the other hand, double glazing and central heating make conservatories an ideal place for growing tropical plants.

To make the winter garden more comfortable for plants, install ventilation hatches on the roof and lay the floor with stone or tiles that are not afraid of water. However, it will be cheaper to build a large greenhouse and put a couple of chairs in it.

Porch.
Sometimes a porch is a good place to place plants. We just need to keep in mind that every time we enter or leave the house, temperature changes occur on the porch, which are dangerous for young plants. In addition, it is usually not heated, and at night it is quite cold. Still, if you have a closed, warm porch with shelves, and the doors don't open every now and then, plants can take root here.

MINI GREENHOUSES
Today, greenhouses are produced in a variety of shapes and sizes, and even if your garden is small, there is room in it for a small greenhouse - wall-mounted, octagonal or mini. The main thing is that light reaches the plants during the day.

Of course, it is better to have one large greenhouse, but if space does not allow, consider two or more small ones. We can place them in different parts of the garden. However, moderate your ambitions. It is better to grow a few healthy plants, not cramped by space, than many in a cramped space.

GREENHOUSES AND CAPS
Gardening stores now sell inexpensive clear plastic covers for covering seeds sown directly into the soil, seed pots, cuttings and young plants. Caps made of wire arcs covered with plastic film are very good for covering vegetable beds, but installing and removing them is quite troublesome.

Greenhouses with a lifting lid on hinges are designed for growing seedlings, rooting cuttings and sheltering cold-sensitive plants for the winter. Lightweight portable models can be used as hoods. (We will tell you more about greenhouses and hoods on pp. 52-53.)

FILM GREENHOUSES
Film greenhouses are cheap and easy to install, but they do not look very impressive. These structures are suitable for protecting plants planted in the ground, but are not entirely suitable for germinating seeds, rooting cuttings and exposing plants. Heating and air exchange in them are more difficult to control than in glazed greenhouses. Polyethylene, unlike glass, loses its beneficial properties under sunlight, but, on the other hand, eliminating minor damage is cheaper. New types of film are appearing. The highest quality ones, resistant to ultraviolet radiation, last 5-7 years, and with proper care - more than 10. (Additional information about film greenhouses is contained on pp. 40-41.)

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