Often they try to order work on measurements from roofing companies for fear of making some kind of mistake. However, if you know a few simple rules, you can take competent and accurate measurements of the roof yourself.

Draw a diagram in a plane

First of all, you need to draw a diagram of your roof in a plane. “Quite often clients try to draw all sorts of 3D projections, but in reality, in order to correctly calculate the amount of material, the most basic drawing is needed, representing a top view,” comments Andrey Opuk, General Director of Pervaya Roofing LLC. – Such a drawing does not even have to be done to scale.

When you arrive at the company’s office for the final calculation, the manager will simply ask you clarifying questions from the series “Do I understand correctly that you have a connection here?” etc. You just give the necessary comments.

Even computer program, which automatically calculates the material, divides the roof into segments, which are triangles, trapezoids and other elementary shapes.”

Let's start taking measurements

To make it easier and faster to measure the roof, it is best to do it together. You don't need any special devices like a laser rangefinder.

As practice has shown, a long tape measure is enough, which is sold in any construction supermarket. With its help, you need to fix the sizes of all the edges.

Typically measurements occur as follows: one person comes closer to the edge of the roof and fixes the end of the tape measure at the place where the rafter leg ends, and if the roof is old and it is to be dismantled, where the roof covering ends.

The second person fixes the tape measure on the top of the roof (on the ridge).

There is one rule that must be followed: in addition to the ribs, it is necessary to take measurements of all slopes. The fact is that often the sizes of the slopes do not match perfectly. There may be slight displacements that are not noticeable to the naked eye. There is nothing fatal about this, but they should be taken into account when making calculations, so measure each slope separately.

In no case no need to take all measurements from the attic side, from the inside. Otherwise you will get very approximate measurements.

Ilya Bykov, key account manager at Pervaya Roofing LLC:

Firstly, it is best to take measurements of the roof already after the sheathing is ready. Having only a rafter system, measurements are also possible, but using lathing they will definitely be more accurate.

Secondly, it is necessary measure the roof perimeter, where the cornice strip is then supposed to be. This size is also necessary to count the number of sheets of metal tiles (or corrugated sheets).

Thirdly, do not forget that metal tiles do not end rafter leg. Usually, a release of 5-10 cm is made so that the roof has decent looking. When the final calculation is made to you, be sure to express to the manager your wishes for the release.

Fourthly, you should measure the perimeter of the pipe outlets with outside . This is necessary to order the junction strips that are needed to protect against leaks.

If attic or dormer windows, also measure them and indicate their location on the drawing. This will save several meters of tiles.

If the calculation is carried out without taking into account the skylights, no problems will arise: the installers will cut the material to size. If any buildings are adjacent to your house, this should also be reflected in the drawing.

Metal tiles out of stock or to size?

Sometimes people prefer to order large sheets of metal tiles, for example, 6 or 7 m wide, so as not to install them with overlaps. We especially note that overlaps do not cause leaks, since this is structurally impossible.

Regarding savings in this case, we note the following.

Firstly, by “fighting” for size, you get quite long production times(during the season up to two weeks). Naturally, this is not a problem if you are not in a hurry.

Secondly, if the area of ​​your roof is about 200 sq.m., then saving due to large sheets may be a maximum of 4-5 square meters, however this benefit is most likely will fade away, when the cost of delivery and packaging will be calculated for you. For delivery of metal tiles, for example, 7 or 6 meters long, the gazelle is no longer suitable.

In addition, manufacturing plants are required to supply roofing materials in packaging, and it is sold by linear meters. It turns out that delivery and packaging standard sizes may cost less.

We also note that when ordering large sheets of metal tiles, the installation process may become more complicated. Lifting a sheet 7 meters wide to the height of a two- or three-story house with two people is quite difficult. In addition, there is a risk of damaging the polymer coating by shuffling a sheet of metal tile against a staircase or rafters.

The article was prepared by experts from First Roofing.

The construction market today offers a lot various materials for the roof. However, despite this, according to statistics, metal tiles are most often used to cover the roof. Most likely this is due to optimal combination in material cost and performance. Therefore, it will be useful to learn how to cover a roof with metal tiles, especially since it is not very difficult to do.

Metal tiles are made from sheets of steel. Aluminum or copper can also be used. Each of its elements is provided with a special polymer coating, which has not only a protective, but also a decorative function.

Popularity can be easily explained by the following: positive properties as strength, lightness and easy installation. The material also has some disadvantages, for example, high thermal conductivity or limitations associated with the roof configuration.

There is a lot of information on how to cover a roof with metal tiles. Armed with this knowledge, even a not very experienced person can complete the roofing on his own.

How to properly cover a roof with metal tiles

Main stages of execution

First of all, they are carried out preparatory work, which, if necessary, include the dismantling of old roofing material and sheathing. That is, the workspace is being prepared.

As a result, beams and rafters that make up the supporting structure may remain on the roof.

Then waterproofing is laid, protecting the structure from moisture penetration from the outside and from the inside, and a counter-lattice is sewn on.

Options for covering an old roof

Let us immediately note that the requirements for the process of covering with metal tiles for various old coatings are generally the same.

When replacing slate, the old asbestos roofing is completely removed from the roof. Then you need to check:

• what condition are the supports under the old roof;
• dimensions of roof slopes along diagonals;
• the need for repair work.

The old slate roof is dismantled and, depending on the diagnostic results, the old sheathing is also removed. Subsequent work is carried out according to general technology laying metal tiles.

If there is no waterproofing, it must be laid.

The old roof is also dismantled in the case of ceramic tiles.

Larisa Georgievna Bakanova

I have a house in a village in the Volkhov district. It was necessary to repair the roof and install downspouts and gutters.
I contacted the Verkh Stroy company. The surveyor promptly went to the site and took all the necessary measurements. The next day the contract and estimate were ready. The quality material was delivered on time. The work was done quickly, the roofers were wonderful, they had golden hands, they were professionals, it was easy to communicate, they resolved all issues constructively. Working with galvanized iron is difficult, they did it perfectly, I am very pleased, the roof is beautiful, the gutters look great. I am very pleased. I recommend this company to everyone.

Sincerely, L.G. Bakanova 06/05/2013

Leningrad region, Volkhov district, Seliverstovo village, private house

Galkin Petr Ivanovich

For roof restoration and replacement country house I contacted Verkh Stroy (I found information and reviews about them on the Internet).

The roof repair work was a success. The attitude of the team of workers towards the fulfillment of contractual obligations and the quality of work performed is at a good level. Thank you!

LO, Vsevolozhsk district, village. Priyutino, Gardening "Granite", country house

Andrey Anatolyevich Mishchenko

We contacted the Verkh Stroy company about emergency roof insulation. The work was completed quickly and efficiently and was completed on time, as agreed. The team was Russian. Communication is businesslike and polite. I recommend this company to anyone looking for real professionals! Thank you very much!

Leningrad region, Priozersky district, Torfyanoe village, private cottage

Chairman of the Board of Homeowners Association "Graftio" Ishchenko Svetlana Nikolaevna

In September 2012, there was a need for repairs in the Graftio HOA soft roof on an area of ​​70 sq.m. We considered 6 (six) contracting organizations, incl. "Top Stroy"
At our request, Master V.Yu. Chernykh came to our site. An on-site examination of the roof was carried out and a commercial proposal was promptly drawn up, which completely satisfied us.
The roofing work was directly supervised by I.M. Poknya.
The work was completed in full, quickly and efficiently. There are no more leaks observed.
Our HOA expresses gratitude to the Verkh Stroy company and we look forward to further cooperation.

Multi-storey residential building, St. Petersburg, Graftio street, 3

Tumilyanis Andrey Vladimirovich

Thank you for your service. The roof was leaking. Repaired with TechnoNIKOL welding material. A new layer of 130 m2 was fused onto the old bitumen shingles. Very prompt. They communicate politely. Punctuality is super! Everything is fine, thanks for the work!
10/11/2012
Leningrad Region Volodarsky village, private cottage

Natalya Anatolyevna Lobasova

I rated the work of the Verkh Stroy company’s craftsmen as 5+. They worked quickly (two days), efficiently, and carefully. I am very pleased with the work done. Pleasant to talk to. Work in any weather conditions. I don’t think I could have found better masters.
Roof covering with ondulin 85 m2.

mn. Berndgardovka, country house.

The repair of the roof of the container was completed without any comments and on time. I have no complaints about the quality.
09/01/2012
Chudinovskikh V.A. Mechanic "Amron"

Malysheva Nadezhda Viktorovna

In August 2012 We contacted the Verkh Stroy company about repairing the roof of a country house by logging into their website and sending a preliminary application. I wanted to find competent specialists. Everything that was offered to us before was alarming with an unprofessional approach. On the very first working day, the company manager called and informed me about the cost of the work and sent me a contract. The Master promptly arrived on site, took into account all our wishes and professionally and unobtrusively advised us to correct them. We decided everything on the spot. The next day the new agreement was ready.

The company promptly purchased and delivered the material. A professional Russian team completed the dismantling of slate, repair of sheathing, installation of metal tiles, installation of gutters, and carefully stored the waste on time and with high quality.
I had to work during the rainy season, but what was especially pleasing was that the company covered the house with an awning at night in any weather, relieving any stress on the customer.
We were pleased.
Sincerely, Malysheva N.V.
Dacha cooperative in Sosnovy Bor.

Alexey Alexandrovich Shiryaev

I contacted the Verkh Stroy company to re-roof a country house of 237 m2. The possible types of work were explained very clearly and constructively. Together with the master, we chose the most optimal option from a price-quality point of view.

The Verkh Stroy company took over all organizational work, coordination and delivery of materials.
Installation work roofing carried out within the agreed time frame.
Competent specialists and managers are focused on results and ensuring that the Customer likes their work.
Thanks a lot!

Replacing old slate with bitumen shingles at the dacha in the village. LO ends

Kirill Stepanovich Golubev

Thank you for your conscientious work. The roof was done quickly and efficiently, the roofing material was removed, the sheathing was repaired and corrugated sheeting was laid. We completed it in two weeks, as agreed.

Private house, Luzhki LO

Maria Guzhel

We contacted the Verkh Stroy company to rebuild the roof of our 82 m2 dacha. Removed old slate and made an ondulin coating. Now we can open the season. Prices are reasonable. The best offer I found. They were afraid that migrant workers would come, but Russian guys worked. You are just great! Thank you!

Gardening "Dvizhenets" Kirovsky district Leningrad region

The final stage of building a house includes the final selection of roofing and its installation. Most often, roof construction is entrusted to specialists, since this type of work is the most responsible and unsafe. Today, metal tiles have become a popular type of roofing in private housing construction. Its ease of installation allows you to cover the roof yourself, which significantly saves money.

It is best to cover roofs with a slope with metal tiles when the slope is at least 14 degrees. It is preferable that the roof be geometrically simple, since the material itself will not have to be cut and there will be no unclaimed scraps left.

Why spend extra money when we do the roof ourselves and for ourselves?

When purchasing the required amount of metal tiles, you must:

• accurately measure the roof;
• it is important that the sheet is 4 cm longer than the roof so that its end overlaps the eaves; such an arrangement will create a ventilated space on the ridge;
• it is necessary to carefully measure the parameters of the future roof, including diagonally;
• Before you start covering the roof, it is useful to make sure that it does not have any unevenness;
• if they exist, but it is not possible to level them, you can lay the tiles so that the lower edge of the sheathing itself completely coincides with the overhang line of the sheet.

It is impossible to install a roof with your own hands without a special tool:

• metal scissors,
• electric drills,
• Bulgarians,
• hacksaws.

You need to start with installation rafter system. Rafters are beams and serve as a frame for the future roof. According to the established standard, the rafter system provides a pressure of 200 kg square meter.

Advice. Regardless of the characteristics of the roofing material This requirement is mandatory so that the roof can withstand the pressure of the wind and the weight of the fallen snow.

1. Before installation of the rafter system, the load-bearing walls are screeded.
2. Then the waterproofing, longitudinal beam and bed are laid.
3. A sub-rafter support system is assembled from struts, purlins and racks.
4. Next comes the installation of the rafters themselves, starting from the outermost ones and ending with the intermediate ones.

A video on how to make a roof with your own hands can be a good help. No roofing can be laid on a bare rafter “skeleton”: sheathing is required.

It is made from various materials, most often wood. Wooden boards nails are attached to the rafters. The parameters of the sheathing boards depend on the material that will be used for the roof.

It requires a base of weave boards. The thickness is calculated individually, but the outermost long boards are usually 10 mm thicker.

Based on the transverse pitch of the profile (350-400 mm), the distance between the boards is calculated. The board extending beyond the cornice, as well as the one following it, is placed in smaller increments (300-350 mm).

Features of gable roof lining

Sheets of metal tiles are attached to the sheathing.

Advice. When lining gable roof, you should start from the end, and in the case of a hip roof, start from the highest point, gradually going down.

1. Metal tiles are always laid with an overlap, the previous sheet is covered with another sheet on top.
2. The sheets of metal tiles are fastened together using self-tapping screws, and then to the ridge using screws.
3. The end strips are installed from bottom to top along the front surfaces of the roof, and the ends of the metal tile sheets are covered.
4. The end strips are attached with self-tapping screws, which are screwed to the sheathing and waves (outermost) of the tile sheet.
5. When the end strips are installed, ridge strips are installed, which are attached to the top of every second wave of metal tiles. They are responsible for the façade of the house. These elements are also screwed on with screws.
6. After the planks are installed in length, the overlap in width is approximately 10 cm.
7. At the junction of the slopes, the valley is installed. There are two copies of them, the bottom one is placed on top of the cornice strip, directly on the sheathing, and the one on top is placed on top of the wave of the tile sheet.
8. Next, the installation of pipes and gutters is carried out.

For those interested in how to make the roof of a house with their own hands, the video demonstrates the diagram proposed by the manufacturers. It must be remembered that the hooks for installing the system must be attached to the sheathing before the installation of the metal tiles begins.

If desired, you can install a lightning rod.

Regular slate roof

For those who want to understand how to cover a roof, no less interesting is a more familiar technology - laying slate. It is readily used when a do-it-yourself massandra roof is needed.

Covered in advance acrylic paint especially for painting slate. Without this, it will actively absorb moisture and collapse over time. In its pure form, slate can last 15-20 years. Painted slate is 3-5 times stronger and more durable.

Why? When wet slate freezes, the water in the microcracks will expand them and gradually destroy the structure of the slate. The painted material is protected from water in microcracks (they are filled with paint). It is enough to inspect a slate roof once every two to three years, touching it up as necessary.

For these purposes, you need to take care of safe access to the roof; you need a so-called roof ladder.

IN modern house Each slope is covered with three rows of slate. The middle row starts from the edge not with a whole sheet, but with half a sheet of slate (cut to length).

If you join in another way, then 4 sheets of slate lie at the corners of each other. Having gathered at one point, they form visible cracks and create a weak connection.

Don't look for instructions on how to make a roof with your own hands - the video demonstrates how to calculate the amount of slate for a house and how many of them need to be cut. They cut the slate with a grinder; this work takes an hour.

One sheet is cut in half - at the rate of 4 waves in half (eight-wave slate). Two sheets are cut to form parts of 5 waves and 3 waves. Pieces with 5 waves should have a small wave along the edge.

The last wave of factory slate is smaller than the others - it is designed specifically for joining. When there is a combined roof, the slate is also laid in such a way that a small wave remains attached under the large subsequent sheet (small + small is not suitable).

After cutting, you will get 6 pieces of slate: two 5-wave pieces (they begin to cover the middle rows), two four-wave pieces (they finish covering the middle rows) and two three-wave pieces (spare).

Slate is attached roofing screws on top of the wave (if you attach the waves below, the water will flow under the roof). The self-tapping screw fits into the center (or slightly above) of the sheathing board. Using a Pobedit drill bit D 6-7 mm, a hole is drilled in the slate for a screw-in screw. Builders can pierce the slate with a nail, which creates many microcracks (this will cause the destruction of the entire slate in 2-3 years).

Advice. Underestimating the importance of lathing, some builders try to save on it by using low-quality wood. The sheathing bars turn into dust, they no longer hold the slate, and the entire slope can slide out. It is necessary to select sheathing bars with great care.

If you are watching training materials on how to install a roof, the video will draw your attention to which direction the slate and metal sheets of the ridge strip overlap.

Advice. Choose the side where the winds blow most often. If you do not take this direction into account, then in rain and strong winds, water accumulates in the space between the sheets, and leads to constant wetting of the sheathing.

It is convenient to attach slate starting from the top row. The upper edge of the row of slate is tied with a marking thread to the outer rafters, then the lower edge is marked.

The upper edges of both slopes are at the same height and do not interfere with each other. Between the roof slopes, the distance between the edges of the topmost slate sheets should be maintained from 100 to 200 mm.

When learning how to make a roof for a house, video lessons are a must. They illustrate all possible situations during construction and help find the right solution.

1. Let's say the wind usually blows from the right, which means you need to cover the roof from the left.
2. The very first block of painted slate is attached to the sheathing with a self-tapping screw, which is screwed into the center of the sheet.
3. After this, the center of the left edge is secured with the next screw.
4. The second sheet in the top row is superimposed on the outermost wave of the previous sheet and attached to the sheathing with a self-tapping screw.
5. All subsequent sheets of slate in the top row are secured in the same way. The slate sheet is first held on by one screw.
6. The second row of slate is attached to half a sheet of 5 waves. To secure this half of the sheet, it is slipped under the first sheet in the top row, with an overlap of 100-150 mm.).
7. The center of the left edge is secured with screws.
8. Next, one self-tapping screw connects the first sheet in the top row with the first sheet of the second row. You need to drill a through hole in two sheets of slate (upper left corner and lower left corner of the upper one). With an overlap of 150 mm, the offset for a screw-in screw is 75 mm or half the overlap.
9. The second block of the middle row is superimposed on the outer wave (small) of the first block of the second row and slipped 150 mm under the first and second slate blocks in the top row. A self-tapping screw is screwed into the center of the second block already in the middle row.
10. 10. Now you need to fasten 3 sheets of slate with one screw. A self-tapping screw is screwed through three sheets into the sheathing and the third sheet of the middle block is laid.
11. 11. Next - the same scheme. The last one to place is a half-sheet with 4 waves.
12. The third row is laid in a similar way, the only difference is that we start laying from a whole sheet.
13. The bottom in the third row is secured with self-tapping screws.
14. The other slope of the gable roof is laid on the right so that the slate sheets overlap in one direction on both slopes.
15. After this, the ridge strip is installed.

Advice. To insulate the roof from rain and snow, we foam the joints of the slate sheets, as well as the waves of the slate, so that snow does not accumulate between the slate masonry and the strip on the ridge.

To do it right calculate and set the diagonal of the foundation or formwork foundation - it’s very good to hire specialists. But if you have already seen the “square meter” program several times, heard several times a conversation about how to build, and also a bunch of jokes about construction? - another thing. This gives us “every right” to assume that we ourselves can handle such a simple matter as the corners and diagonals of the foundation formwork. This is exactly the high opinion of himself that everyone who plans to build a bathhouse with their own hands (Ha-ha!)

I wrote about the beginning of marking and designing the foundation and formwork in the article. At the time of driving in the stakes and installing the outer formwork boards, I already checked the length of the diagonal. Everything converged down to the millimeter. This is the most important condition for obtaining right angles for a bathhouse log. But after the first marking, there were manipulations with installing the bottom of the grillage, installing internal formwork panels, and finishing the formwork of the columns from ground level to the bottom of the future foundation. Of course, I tried very hard not to move anything, and drove the stakes deep.

But as with any construction project, something went wrong. It's not as scary as if I didn't notice it or I didn't know about it. Therefore, before laying the reinforcement, I decided to check the diagonals again. The difference was 2 cm. It’s good that it was discovered before the concrete was poured.

How to display the diagonal of the formwork?

To simplify the construction of the correct formwork, I made the length of the walls absolutely equal. Therefore, the distortion can only be in the form of a diamond. In the figure, the degree of skew of the formwork is deliberately increased for clarity.
To correct the situation, we did this:

This combined movement of one side of the formwork (north side in the picture) was not too difficult since the stakes and the original arrangement of the formwork were in the correct position. Therefore, the diagonal shift was minimal and efforts to “adjust” the position of the shields did not cause mechanical stress and effort.

The method of setting angles along equal diagonals can only be used if the sides are equal. Diagonal Equalities will be sufficient!

For larger sides of formwork, it is possible to apply the “golden” triangle rule. If such a triangle, according to the Pythagorean theorem, has sides 3, 4, then the hypotenuse is equal to 5 units. Thus, it is enough to measure on the sides of the formwork parts that are multiples of 3 and 4 at the top of the right angle and then the distance between the control points will be 5 parts! This will guarantee right angles and equality of diagonals!

For proper planning formwork installation I highly recommend using the cast-off method, which allows you to installation work check corners, remove and reinstall foundation perimeter cords.

Before pouring the foundation, do not be too lazy to check the diagonals again. It won't be superfluous! Concrete cannot be fixed easily or quickly. Errors are very expensive and time-consuming to correct. The foundation for a log house has more quality requirements than the foundation for a stone house. Nothing can be leveled with mortar!

Don't forget to remove it before pouring for easy removal!