Blind area The blind area is designed to protect the foundation from precipitation. Moisture falling on the ground penetrates deep and, although with a sufficiently deep foundation it does not reach the base, it still has a destructive effect. The blind area is a small

If you are still thinking about whether to insulate the outside of the house with your own hands or not, cast aside your last doubts: you need to insulate it, no matter what kind of heating you have, and even if it is absent. The really pressing question is: how to properly insulate wooden house? How to properly insulate an old wooden house from the outside? What about the new house?

Experts are unanimous: insulation is the most effective wooden house outside. This way you don’t deprive your home of useful centimeters of interior space, and most importantly - bring the dew point outside, which is a guarantee that there will be no place for dampness, fungi, mold and other troubles in the house. Heat will be retained not only in the premises; the structures themselves will also be protected from the cold, while internal insulation wooden buildings will not achieve this effect, there will be heat loss, the outer walls will constantly experience changes in temperature and humidity.

Experts are unanimous in their opinion: the most effective way is to insulate a wooden house from the outside

There is no doubt that insulation wooden houses- a topic that has been well studied and widely represented on the Internet, because these are the kinds of houses we have been building for a long time, so you can find materials and methods, both traditional and modern.

Before you learn how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, it’s worth talking about choosing the right material as insulation.

For external insulation of a wooden house, slabs (mats) of mineral wool or stone wool are most often used.

As for polystyrene foam, which was previously used to insulate old houses, today this material is considered unsuitable due to its low vapor permeability. Such insulation cannot remove moisture vapor from the surface of the walls.

Mineral or stone wool slabs can be in the form of mats having different densities and thicknesses. When choosing, keep in mind that it is better to lay the insulation tightly, so it will last longer, and it is easier to work with such material: it is better mounted.

If the mat is loose and very soft, over time the insulation will slide down, it will also begin to crumble, and this dust is harmful to the human body.

An important advantage of mineral wool and stone wool is that it:

• Does not burn;
• Rodents don't like it.

These two valuable qualities distinguish cotton wool from polystyrene foam.

In addition to proper insulation, there are also important parts of the secret trick on how to keep warm in a wooden house. And they consist in strict adherence to technology. So, you will need 2 layers of film:

1. The first layer performs waterproofing functions and prevents moisture from penetrating inside the house. This layer must be placed on the insulated surface itself. This film must be vapor-permeable, then it will remove all excess moisture from the house through the insulation to the outside.
2. The second layer of film performs other functions: water protection and wind protection. This film is fixed on top of the thermal insulation. She needs to perform the task of protecting the insulating material from moisture that comes from outside. Waterproofing mineral insulation is fundamentally important, since this material, when moistened, simply loses its properties as a heat insulator.

WITH outside The insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside is completed by cladding with the necessary finishing material. It is important to ensure a ventilation air gap. This cladding is called cladding according to the ventilated facade system. Air always circulates between it and the wall itself, which makes it impossible for mold and fungal colonies to form.

A ventilated facade will effectively remove moisture from the insulation.

This should be done in the case of new buildings, and if you are wondering how to insulate an old wooden house. In any case, its service life will be much longer than if the facade was not ventilated or if the house was not insulated.

Course of action

So, how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside:

For comprehensive insulation of a wooden structure, as additional protection, insulate the base and foundation of the house, the ceiling, and insulation of the interfloor ceiling will also be required. For thermal insulation of a wooden house from below, penoplex or polystyrene, polyurethane foam is used.

Now you know how to insulate the walls of your village house. Do you know what a modern ventilated façade is? Do you know how to insulate the rubble, if we are talking about the basement of the house?

Zavalinka

You've heard the expression: insulate a log in a wooden house? For insulating a wooden house from the outside, this old-fashioned method is still popular today. This is an improvised embankment, which is erected around the perimeter of the entire house from the outside with your own hands. The method is ancient, every village knows it; previously, the pile was made from earth with sawdust and straw.

Zavalinka is an improvised embankment that is erected around the perimeter of the entire house from the outside with your own hands

To fully insulate an old wooden house, many are interested in how to insulate the rubble. The filling protects the base and base from freezing wooden walls, it also performs a decorative function and is very practical for sitting.

The technology for insulating a wall from the outside today is no longer ancient, but modern; it is insulated with polystyrene foam.

You will need nails and screws, slats and beams, and the insulation itself. Don't use mineral wool, it's not effective here.

To insulate a pile in a wooden house, first remove the soil along the outer walls of the house about half a meter wide from the base and 5 cm deep. The insulation technology involves creating a special frame with a height from the ground to 50 cm.

Horizontally, the bars must be leveled.

The frame is a perimeter adjacent to the walls from the outside in the form of a rectangle. All structural elements must be treated with an antiseptic and mastic. The structure must be made with a slope so that rain does not accumulate in it. The resulting box is filled with the selected insulation and sheathed with boards.

Don’t think that only builders can insulate the outside of an old or new house! Correct scheme insulation of a wooden house is the key to your success.

Zavalinka is a traditional and simple way of insulation country house, which has not lost its relevance today. This design prevents freezing of the basement and space under the house, protects the foundation and lower crowns of the log house from negative impact precipitation, melt and groundwater. It makes repairs easier. Much easier to replace external structure rubble than rotten logs in the walls, lifting the frame with a jack.

Thanks to the insulation of the rubble, the thermal insulation qualities of the house are increased. Basement or ground floor will not freeze, which will allow you to safely store food, tools and various things indoors. In addition, the pile will serve as an excellent decorative element and proper organization will become comfortable bench in the warm season.

Previously, the heap was always made in bulk and sawdust, earth or straw were used. Today, they mainly use modern natural insulation, penoplex or polystyrene foam. However, traditional classic materials are also suitable.

A modern heap is built around the foundation from the blind area to the second crown of the house. To construct and insulate the structure, you will need bars, slats and boards, and insulation (sawdust or ready-made, purchased in a store). Let's take a closer look at how to make and how to insulate the heap in the house.

How to make and insulate a pile

• When designing a pile, the appropriate width and height of the structure are selected, taking into account the fact that the device can also be used as a bench. The optimal width is in this case considered 30-40 centimeters;
• The angle of inclination of the upper part of the pile is calculated so that in the future melting snow can easily roll off the surface or moisture from rain can escape. An angle of 20-30 degrees is considered suitable;
• Before starting work, slats, bars and other wooden materials treated with an antiseptic;
• Outside, a ditch is made around the perimeter up to five centimeters deep and about 30-50 centimeters wide;
• The frame of the heap is mounted using bars that are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The height of the structure should be about 50 centimeters;
• Then the slats are laid around the perimeter of the house at the base of the structure so that a rectangle is formed, one side of which is adjacent to the house;
• Vertical slats are fixed and nailed to the wall of the building. In the end it will work out wooden structure in the shape of a trapezoid;
• Vertical slats, which will be located against the wall of the house, are installed at a slight angle of 20-30 degrees;
• The resulting structure is upholstered on the sides using boards or scraps and remnants of wooden building materials (for example, after lining). Then the filling is filled with insulation and the upper part is upholstered;
• Instead of boards, you can use slate or corrugated board. These are more reliable and sustainable materials;
• The joints between the sheathing and the wall are covered with a lath with a hewn outer corner. This will prevent moisture from entering the cracks and subsequent rotting of the wood.

What to choose for insulation

How to insulate the rubble is up to everyone to decide for themselves. Sawdust or hay mixed with soil is a classic and environmentally friendly option, but less reliable. Modern foam will last longer. These materials are moisture resistant, strong and durable. But choose products carefully, as some are not environmentally friendly and can disrupt the naturalness of a wooden house. For insulation, you should not choose mineral wool, as it quickly absorbs moisture.

After completion of the work, a wooden box is obtained, which is once again impregnated with protective agents. Antiseptics will protect natural wood from rot, dampness, mold, and the negative effects of insects. Fire retardants will protect against the negative effects of sunlight and prevent fire from spreading over the surface in the event of a fire.

Experts recommend covering the work at the end wooden surfaces decorative compositions. Varnish, paint, and oils are suitable for this. This will enhance the protection of the structure, increase its service life and allow it to maintain its aesthetic appearance for a long time.

“MariSrub” craftsmen carry out turnkey construction of a wooden house from timber or logs. We will reliably manufacture and install a heap that will look harmonious with the house design. We only use quality materials and insulation, we carry out treatment with protective agents in several stages. In addition, we install drainage and blind areas, which also protect the house from moisture and dampness. We carry out installation utility networks, internal and external finishing. We guarantee high quality and efficiency of work!

They made a pile at the dacha) That is. insulated the base and covered it with metal siding

First, we installed hangers and metal guides.

Installation step is 0.5 meters.

The distance from the wall is 12 cm. This is the maximum distance possible with standard hangers.

Below, where the base is, extruded polystyrene foam was used for insulation. Because This insulation is not afraid of moisture.

The rest of the space was insulated with basalt wool.

This is convenient because it can be stuck and pushed into hard-to-reach places. It is also better suited for brick walls, allowing steam to pass through and not forming condensation on the walls.

Initially, we planned to use 2 sheets of 60 mm each (in total we get the required insulation thickness of 12 cm), but these were not available for sale. There are only 50mm and 100mm)

I started looking on the Internet where to buy the required thickness, and it turned out that most manufacturers do not make sheets of other thicknesses at all) I found a local office where they produce basalt insulation of any thickness at the request of the customer. But as soon as I told them how much I needed, they lazily replied that because of such a volume, no one would get up from their chair and do anything) But I needed 24 sq. meter of insulation 60 mm thick.

By chance it turned out that they had 70 mm thick insulation leftover in their warehouse. It can be combined with standard thickness 50 mm. In general, we bought two types of basalt insulation, 50 mm and 70 mm thick.

We covered it with a layer of vapor barrier and began installing the siding.

The siding was installed in one day. And they installed the guides and insulated them for a week and a half))

It took another two days to make the slopes and cover the seams with sealant.

Caulking the seams is a temporary measure to protect against water, because... Later we plan to cover the entire house with siding.

Where the sheets did not lie close to each other, I had to twist them with a self-tapping screw.

Half a meter of slopes was missing) It will be necessary to order more and redo it. As a temporary option, we bent a sheet from the remains from the roof)

In some places it didn’t turn out quite smoothly)

But the main thing now is that the house is at least a little warmer)

Zavalinka is one of the traditional attributes of Russians village houses. The main purpose of the cover is to protect houses from freezing in the event of severe frosts. This is done by sprinkling the house around the perimeter with earth, which prevents heat loss.

Naturally, with the improvement of construction technologies and the advent of new materials (including insulating materials), the relevance of the piles is gradually fading away. However, they still remain an interesting design element that can emphasize the color of a house made in one of the traditional styles. In addition, for wooden houses, the heap retains its functional meaning, since it can protect against severe cold.

Let's look at how to make a pile with your own hands.

In general, the technology for arranging the simplest heap does not present any great difficulties:

• 1. The house is dug up on all sides except where the door is located. As a result, along the perimeter of the house (with the exception of one wall) you will have a flat area, cleared of grass and roots.
• 2. Along each wall (again, except for the one where the door is located), it is necessary to make a small recess (up to 50 mm) with a width of about 400 mm. The base of the frame of our heap will be placed in this recess. Accordingly, its width is equal to the width of the heap. If you make it larger than 400 mm, you will have difficulties with arranging the upper part, which we will discuss below.
• 3. The frame of the pile is made from ordinary wooden slats and attached to the wall of the house. Please note that the frame rail opposite the wall of the house should be smaller than the one adjacent to the wall, which will ensure the slope of the pile. The slope is necessary for the free flow of water and snow removal. Otherwise, water will flow under the rubble, which is categorically undesirable. Ultimately, we will get a rectangular trapezoid, the wide part adjacent to the wall of the house.
• 4. In increments of about a meter, vertical slats are nailed to the wall of the house, on which the continuation of the frame is built. Thus, for each wall, we will have a frame of a three-dimensional figure, consisting of rectangular “sections” connected by horizontal slats.
• 5. It is recommended to lay the bottom of the pile with boards.
• 6. The frame (except for the upper part) is covered with boards. It is recommended to treat the latter with compounds that increase water resistance. As a result, we will get a kind of box running along the wall with an open top part.
• 7. This box is filled with sawdust or other similar material. In principle, it can also be filled with mineral wool, but this will be noticeably more expensive.
• 8. It is recommended to cover the top of the pile with one board, as otherwise the drainage of water will be difficult. It is at this stage that the width of the heap we choose becomes important. If it is more than 400 mm, it will be difficult for you to find a board of this width - after all, taking into account the slope, we will need a board 460 mm wide. Theoretically, you can use two boards, but they need to be laid so that the top one overlaps the bottom one, as is done when arranging a roof.
• 9. The frame boards, as well as the upper part of the heap, are fastened together using ordinary nails.

Please note: the greater the slope of the heap, the more reliably the water will run off it, and the more uncomfortable it will be to sit on it. Accordingly, you will need to find some kind of compromise solution.