The tree is construction material with a rich history. The traditions of wooden architecture are still alive today. A wooden wall looks beautiful both outside and inside, but beauty is not the main thing. Wood is a living and breathing material, so houses and baths made of wood are always warm and cozy. We invite you to talk in more detail about how wooden walls are built, as well as what advantages and disadvantages they have.

Advantages of wooden walls

1. Environmental friendliness. Wooden wall- this is a wall made of natural material. During operation, no harmful substances will be released from it, which means living in wooden house It will be comfortable and safe even for people prone to allergic reactions.
2. Frost resistance. If concrete or without proper insulation can freeze at very low temperatures, then wood is not afraid of even severe frosts due to its low thermal conductivity and ability to accumulate heat.
3. Ease of processing. It is quite easy to erect wooden walls. If you are planning to build a wooden cottage, gazebo or bathhouse, you will need the help of only 3-4 people. It should also be noted that the wood does not require additional finishing. Wooden walls themselves look very neat, neat and original.

Disadvantages of wooden walls

1. High flammability. Wood is a fire-hazardous building material, therefore, when constructing buildings made of wood, extreme attention should be paid to organizing systems that prevent fire.
2. Low moisture resistance. Wood absorbs moisture very well, which can cause such unpleasant consequences as rotting of the walls, their deformation and destruction. The problem can be solved by using various impregnations and paint and varnish materials, which reliably protect the tree from moisture and at the same time make appearance wooden walls more attractive.

Wooden walls made of timber

A beam is a solid wood with a cross-section in the form of a rectangle or square. There are several types of timber:

• ordinary is a timber made from solid wood, without any additional processing;
• profiled is a timber with cutouts (grooves) in one or more edges. Their presence facilitates the installation process and reduces the likelihood that cracks will appear in the wall;
• glued laminated timber is a timber glued together from several boards. The main advantage of such timber is that, unlike materials made from solid wood, it practically does not shrink during the first time after the building is put into operation.

To erect walls along the perimeter of a house building, timber 15-22 cm thick is used. In the corners, at the intersection of walls and partitions, as well as every 1-1.5 meters, the crowns are connected with spikes with a cross-section of 2-3 cm and a length of 10-12 cm. Under the first crown A layer of roofing felt must be laid. To get rid of cracks, tow or antiseptic felt is placed between the beams.

Wooden walls made of rounded logs

A rounded log is a tree trunk that, after processing, has taken the shape of a cylinder. Wooden log houses are most often built from solid coniferous trees, as it is more durable and moisture-resistant.

The maximum permissible “runaway” (reduction in the cross-sectional diameter from one end of the log to the other) is up to 1 cm per 1 linear meter. To be strictly observed horizontal arrangement rows of logs, they are laid with the butt (the side of the log that was the base of the tree trunk) in different directions.

For the construction of external walls, logs with a diameter of 18-25 cm are purchased. For internal walls, logs with a thickness of 2-3 cm less are suitable. As in the case of timber, a waterproofing layer of roofing felt is laid under the first crown of logs. For greater density of the wall structure, longitudinal semicircular grooves are made in the beams along the entire length. The width of such a groove is about 2/3 of the diameter of the log. The crowns are fastened together with “teeth” - spikes with a round or rectangular cross-section.

Connecting logs in the corners of a house can be done using two methods:

• “in the oblo” - with a remainder when the end of the log protrudes around the corner. This way the log house turns out to be more durable and looks more attractive, but keep in mind that the logs will have to be taken about 0.5 meters longer;
• “into the paw” - without parts protruding beyond the corner. This technology is more complex, but it saves wood consumption, and therefore your budget.

Frame and panel structures

This approach to constructing walls made of wood is considered the simplest and most economical. First, the wall frame is assembled from beams 50-60 mm thick. The finished frame is sheathed horizontally, vertically or diagonally:

• outside - with 20 mm thick boards, lining, siding, etc.;
• from the inside - plywood, hardboard, chipboards, etc.

The most important question here is what kind of design? Between the outer and inner plank cladding, a kind of “sandwich” is placed from two layers of roofing felt/glassine and any available insulation. If you use organic insulation, it is better to treat them with lime or some kind of antiseptic to protect them from rodent infestation.

As a result, the total thickness frame walls is about 140 mm: 40 mm - external and internal cladding, 100 mm - insulation.

These are the technologies for constructing walls made of wood. To choose which one is right for you, decide on the functional purpose of the building ( summer cottage, a house for year-round living, etc.) and, of course, your financial capabilities. Approach each stage construction work responsibly and slowly, and you will succeed in everything!

A very interesting technology for building a house made of wood is presented in this video:

Wooden log houses have recently become very popular. It seems that everything is simple and fast: one log, two logs - the house is ready... However, according to experts, it is precisely with wooden house construction that there is the greatest risk of making a mistake. We will tell you in our material what you should not do when building walls made of logs and timber.

It’s a paradoxical thing: judging by customer reviews, troubles can await a “wooden” developer at every turn. For example, it is not easy for a beginner to find quality material and professional hewers (although they exist). It happens that even at the construction stage, a tree is attacked by bark beetles...

And yet, many owners claim: they would never exchange their log house for brick house. Well, isn’t it surprising?.. The fact is that such owners treated the construction of their home with the utmost seriousness, taking into account all the little details. Do this too.

So, here are the main mistakes.

Poor waterproofing of the lower crowns of the log house

Ancient builders of huts often used large stones instead of foundations. The log house was placed on them without any waterproofing. Moreover, they piled up the rubble so that one or two crowns were in the ground. But the huts served their owners for a long time - primarily because durable larch was used for the lower crowns. If necessary, rotten logs were simply replaced. For village men in a wooded area this was not difficult.

A modern developer, unless, of course, he is a taiga resident, treats property more carefully. It is better to install wooden walls on a high base so that snow does not reach them in winter. Waterproofing between the foundation and walls is also necessary. If the house is two-story, make sure that when it rains, water from the wall does not flow onto the lower crowns (overmoistening is detrimental to wood). To do this, cornices are made between floors to drain water.

Poorly selected material

High-quality timber and logs will serve you for a long time. But this is only if they were not affected by fungi. This is immediately visible on the timber: the wood is painted blue, gray, and sometimes even green and brown colors. You can only notice fungi on a log with bark on the saw cut, so sellers often cover the saw cuts with paint. They explain it with good intentions: so that the log does not crack. But in this case you should be wary.

A small amount of blue stain is acceptable in construction wood: blue fungi do not reduce the strength of the wood. But on good log house There is no place even for blue. It spoils the appearance of the house and paves the way for more dangerous pests, for example, bark beetles.

In recent years, bark beetles have especially proliferated in the Moscow region, so be vigilant. If you don’t really trust the cutters, then it’s better to inspect each log yourself. Infected areas of wood should be cut out and burned. If there is a nest of bark beetles in the wall, it is very difficult and expensive to get rid of them. The larvae of these insects, eating wood, emit a rhythmic crunching sound that prevents you from sleeping at night. In a few years they are able to turn a log into dust.

Don't neglect chemicals

People who choose wooden houses are often directly obsessed with their “environmental friendliness”. The owners are offended even by the thought that the wood needs to be treated with chemicals. However, practice shows: without chemicals it is impossible to protect wooden walls from fungi and insects.

Before starting work on a construction site, the forest is treated with inexpensive antiseptics. They are easily washed out with water, but remain effective from several months to three years.

There are many impregnations for finished wooden walls, both tinted and colorless. According to manufacturers, they provide protection for up to 10 years.

Poor site for cutting

Often, contractors first assemble the frame on their site, and then take it to the customer to build it “cleanly.” The only advantage of this option is that the cutting area is protected from the sun and rain by a canopy. There is less chance that the wood will rot and crack. Otherwise, control over the work is difficult; it will be difficult for you to track the quality of each log.

It is better to cut down the house directly on the customer’s site, under supervision. Moreover, no one bothers to build a canopy there or glue a cloth to protect it from the rain.

When the already assembled log house will stand under a temporary roof, think about how to protect the window openings from slanting rain. It happens that the crowns located under the windows rot due to the fact that in the fall and spring there is abundant flow of water on them. rainwater. A separate canopy under the window will protect you from this.

Inept hewers

This is, of course, the main problem wooden house construction. If you are not an expert, it will be difficult to understand how they work. But keep a few details in mind.

In locks (at the corners where the walls meet), experienced woodcutters leave gaps that clearly compensate for the shrinkage of the wood. A properly made bowl (a groove for joining logs or beams vertically) saves the owner from the need to re-caulk the walls.

Caulking is the sealing of seams between logs using special fibers. Now jute and flax are used for this. When constructing from dry laminated timber, the use of foamed polyethylene is allowed.

Unjustified use of sealants

A well-assembled log house does not require additional caulking. But if in some places you need to seal cracks, it is better to use natural fibers for this. If you are tempted by synthetic sealants and polyurethane foam, then try to use them only inside the house. Condensation may appear in cracks sealed with sealant in the cold, and then rot is not far away.

Poorly thought out room design

Before building a log house, it is advisable to know in advance what and where you will have it. Internal walls made of round logs are not always compatible with modern furniture. Therefore, it may be necessary to use a carriage somewhere instead of a log. This is a log cut on the sides, which creates a flatter wall surface. Ready design project will help you make the right choice.

Particular difficulties are caused by laying electrical wiring. If you strictly follow the rules, then only external wiring can be done in a wooden house. In other words, wires cannot be hidden in walls. But some developers still try to comply with safety standards by using flexible metal cable ducts. Even when assembling the walls, they are placed in a special groove in the log and taken out where there should be a socket or lamp. Therefore, determine in advance in what places you will have them.

Good craftsmen to you!

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Ilya Melnikov
Construction of wooden walls of a dacha

After building the foundation, you can begin building the walls of the future house. What you will build them from depends on the climate of the area, as well as on the ability to purchase this or that material.

But first you need to know some of the requirements for walls.

Walls should be thermally insulating, strong, durable, soundproof, and architecturally expressive if that's what you want for your home. The thickness of the walls depends on their design features, the material used and climatic conditions (calculated outside air temperature).

According to their functional purpose, walls are divided into external and internal, and according to the perception of vertical loads - into load-bearing, self-supporting and suspended.

Bearers walls take the load from their own weight and other structures and transfer it to the foundations.

Self-supporting the walls bear the load only from their own weight along their entire height and transfer it to the foundations.

Mounted walls carry their own load within one floor. They rest, as a rule, on the interfloor ceiling.

Performing the functions of an external fence, the main structural element of facades, and often a load-bearing structure, the external wall must meet the requirements of strength, durability and fire resistance corresponding to the capital class of the building, provide favorable temperature and humidity conditions for the enclosed premises, have decorative qualities, and protect the premises from unfavorable weather conditions. external influences. At the same time, the walls must satisfy the general technical requirements of industry and minimum material consumption, as well as economic requirements.

The thickness of the external walls is determined by thermal engineering calculations.

Depending on the type of materials used, walls can be:

● wooden (made of logs, beams, frames of various profiles);

● brick (from solid and hollow clay, ceramic and sand-lime bricks and blocks);

● stone (made of cobblestone (rubble) stone, limestone, sandstone, shell rock, tuff, etc.);

● panel; lightweight concrete (from cellular concrete, expanded clay concrete, slag concrete, wood concrete, sawdust concrete);

● soil-concrete made of adobe; composite or multilayer using various materials and constructive solutions.

Wooden walls
General information

Wooden walls - panel, frame, log (chopped) and cobblestones do not require the construction of massive foundations. They are warm and dry inside. And although they retain heat worse than stone ones and cool faster, they heat up faster when heated (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Wooden walls:

A– panel; b– frame; V -"Shalash": 1 – stand; 2 – harness; 3 – frame; 4 - block; 5 – insulation – mineral wool slabs; 6 – glassine; 7 – board or fibreboard; 8 – finishing board; 9 – roofing material; 10 – asbestos cement sheets

Log and paving stones the walls are the warmest, most durable, and have low sound conductivity. They are characterized by the disadvantages of artisanal construction. Cutting corners and manually cutting out grooves is unproductive, produces a lot of wood waste, and requires the work of highly qualified carpenters. Log walls are beneficial if they use logs from dismantled buildings.

Log (chopped) walls are a structure in which the walls are assembled from debarked logs ( round timber).

Log walls are made mainly in cold areas where there is a lot of forest, as well as when using round timber from demolished buildings. These walls are a structure made of horizontally laid logs one on top of the other, connected at the corners by notches. The skeleton of a building with walls of such a structure is called a log house, and each row of logs in a log house is called a crown.

For a tighter connection of the upper rims to the lower ones, longitudinal segment-shaped grooves are selected on the bottom side of the logs. To insulate the walls, tow or moss is laid in an even layer. For greater strength of the log house, the crowns are connected with wooden spikes, placed every 1–1.5 m along their length and in a checkerboard pattern along the height of the walls, and in the piers - one above the other at a distance of 150–200 mm from the edges of the pier.

In the walls, spikes are placed one above the other at a distance of 1.5–2.0 m from the edges to avoid distortions. A layer (10 cm) is laid between the crowns of adjacent heights. thermal insulation material from tow, felt, moss, mineral wool. To protect against rotting and moth damage, the insulation is impregnated with bitumen or resin. It should be remembered that chopped walls, as a result of drying of the wood and compaction of the insulation, within one to one and a half years after construction, give rise to settlement reaching from 3 to 6% of the original height. Therefore, the depth of the sockets for the tenons is 15–20 mm greater than the length of the tenons.

To align the crowns, the logs are processed under one bracket (one diameter) or the butts are placed alternately in different directions. Internal walls are made from thinner logs, and to maintain the same height of the crowns, the width of the grooves is reduced. Along the length of the logs, the crowns are connected with a vertical ridge.

Wood for a house from coniferous logs or beams is usually harvested in winter - the wood will be less susceptible to shrinkage, warping or rotting. There is no need to pre-condition the logs or beams; they will dry well in the log house. You just need to keep in mind that the length of the log after drying decreases by 0.1%, and shrinkage in the direction of the annual rings ranges from 3 to 12%. Often, so-called shrinkage cracks form in logs (beams). There is a simple way to reduce their size or even prevent their occurrence. A cut is made in the beam or log from below along the entire length, with a depth to the center. This cut compensates for the stress when the wood dries.

Logs for construction are selected identical, with a run (change in diameter) of no more than 1 cm per 1 m of length.

For log cabins, it is better to use freshly cut logs; they are less deformed during natural drying when assembled and are easier to process.

The felling of the walls begins with laying the first (flashing) crown, hewn into two edges: one on the inside, the second on the one with which the log is placed on the foundation. The width of the lower edge is at least 15 cm. The first crown is laid from thicker logs strictly according to the level, the next one is joined to it in a groove. It is advisable to lay out the log house along the entire perimeter at once. To align the crowns, the logs are processed under one bracket (one diameter) or the butts are placed alternately in different directions. For a tighter connection of the upper rims to the lower ones, longitudinal segment-shaped grooves are selected on the bottom side of the logs.

For best use wood and waste reduction, the dimensions of the house in the plan are determined taking into account the rational cutting of beams and logs of standard length.

According to all the rules, it is necessary to first assemble the log house not on the foundation, but next to it, without placing tow in the grooves, and wait for six months so that the logs dry properly. Only after this, having numbered the logs, the log house is rolled out and finally installed on the foundation already on tow.

You need to caulk the walls twice - during assembly and a year later, after the final shrinkage of the walls. Tow consumption per 1 sq. m of wall – about 2 kg.

Do not forget that the longitudinal and transverse walls will be shifted relative to each other in height by half the diameter of the log, so the first crown is leveled either with the help of backing plates or with the device of an uneven-high plinth.

Joints in the corners are made in two ways: by cutting with the remainder “into the cup” and by cutting without the residue “into the paw”. The total length of the trunks when cutting a corner into a “cup” is greater than the length or width of the enclosing walls. They protrude beyond the corners.

Cutting in a “cup” is easier, but not economical (0.5 m is lost on each trunk), “in a paw” is more difficult, but more reliable and less wood is used. The coupling of internal walls with external ones when cutting “into a cup” is the same as in the corners, and when cutting “into the paw” - “in a frying pan”. At the same time, in outer wall pass the top and bottom logs. Between them, a compression beam is installed with a fairly large groove into which the crown tenons are inserted (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Wooden log walls:

A– cutting the corner into a “cup” (with the remainder); b– cutting the corner into the “paw” (without residue); V– cutting floor beams into the wall; G– adjacency interior wall to the outside

First, from the harvested logs, select the one that has the smallest diameter in the cut (the cut is the thinner end of the log, opposite the butt), and cut off an edge half the diameter of the cut on one side. This side will become internal for the house. And at the end of the log, three more edges are cut off for the future paw. Then the end is marked, sawed down and a “paw” is cut out, which later serves as a standard for all the others. Note that the marked “paws” are processed with some allowance, and the final finishing is carried out already during the rolling of the log house.

In chopped walls, each upper log has a groove at the bottom, which fits tightly onto the lower one. Groove width at design temperature−30 °C should be at least 12 cm. In addition, along the entire length of the logs, at least every 2 mm, they are fastened together with spikes. The tenon dimensions are 20×60×120.

Openings (for windows, doors) in log walls are framed with boxes. A gap of 5–8 cm is left at the top of the box for settling. The seams between the wall and the frame are caulked and covered with platbands.

Rice. 3. Wooden paving walls:

A– corner connection with spikes; b– corner connection with keys; A– connection of the inner wall with the outer one on spikes; G– coupling of the inner wall with the outer one using dowels, d– crossing walls with spikes; e– intersection of walls with dowels; and– supporting floor beams on external and internal walls.

1 – key with a section of 35×50 mm and a length of 150 mm; 2 – spike with a diameter of 30 mm

Log walls are durable and favorable conditions relatively durable, but not economical in terms of wood consumption and labor-intensive due to the complexity of cutting done by hand.

Cobblestone walls made from wooden beams with a section of 150×150 and 1

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A full-fledged solid timber log house has always been not only considered a symbol of prosperity and good taste, but also demonstrated the owner’s desire to take care of the well-being and health of his household. Construction wooden house made of timber can be considered the most justified from an environmental point of view, maintaining a healthy atmosphere in the room and ensuring good thermal insulation. The widespread use of timber materials has always been hampered by the high price of timber and the rather complex technology of constructing a wooden house.

Features of the construction of premises and buildings made of timber

When using construction technology wooden houses from timber, it is necessary to take into account that wood has always been a capricious material that requires careful compliance with all technological operations:

• Properties wooden beam depend on the moisture content of the wood, so during the construction process it is necessary to make allowances for possible shrinkage and deformation of timber beams;
• The technology for the construction of wooden houses and buildings involves the implementation large quantity manual operations for sawing, cutting grooves and joints, so the quality of construction depends on the carpentry skills of the builders;
• Construction of any wooden buildings from simple profiled timber, they are carried out in two stages, initially the building frame, frame and roof are assembled, and only after six months or a year they begin finishing operations.

Important! After laying the walls, a house made of timber material gradually gains moisture, because of this the wood becomes softer and more pliable, which invariably leads to the building frame settling under its own weight.

Even laminated veneer lumber, the wood of which is impregnated with resins and adhesives, can change their rigidity, which leads to the formation of cracks and divergence of joints.

Highlights of the technology for constructing wooden log houses

In addition to its high sensitivity to conditions and storage method, wood also has such an unpleasant drawback as different strength and rigidity of the wooden material in different directions of application of force to the beam. Therefore, during the construction of a building, to obtain maximum adhesion strength between individual beams and side surfaces, special methods of joining beams are used:

For sealing joints at joints, especially if construction is carried out from ordinary timber, be sure to use flax fiber tow; in the old days, grated dry moss was laid. Many builders consider moss more resistant to moisture and decay and often use it in construction. wooden baths, dachas or country cottages from timber.

Important! Immediately after purchasing the material and at least two weeks before the start of construction, the timber must be treated with a high-quality antiseptic and fire retardant in an organic solvent.

How to build houses from timber

Simple construction technology and the relatively light weight of the material make it possible to assemble wooden buildings of almost any complexity, provided that the project timber house pre-calculated and worked out in detail with the layout of all the key elements of a wooden building.

The process of constructing the main frame of the house consists of the following steps:

• Laying the foundation;
• Assembly of walls, interwall bulkheads and ceilings;
• Assembly truss structure roofs, roofing and finishing of gables;
• Finishing operations.

The construction technology does not require the use of heavy lifting and transport equipment. Moreover, small wooden house can be built almost alone, but it is better to work with a team of two or three people, especially since the installation rafter frame a roof measuring 4x5 m cannot be handled by one person.

How to make a foundation when building a timber box

It is generally accepted that wooden structure The frame of a building made of timber has high rigidity, so it can be installed on almost any known type of foundation. In practice, a newly folded structure, until settlement is completed and the walls are finally strengthened, has only 50% rigidity. After construction is completed, there are considerable cracks and gaps in the joints and joints, clogged with tow or moss. As you type required humidity the wood of the beam swells and sets into a rigid wooden box.

The most difficult time for a “fresh” timber house is winter with severe frosts. At that time wood material the walls dry out and partially lose their rigidity at the joints. If the construction of a house made of timber was carried out on insufficiently deeply twisted piles with a weak lower crown or an insufficiently rigid grillage, there is a danger of opening the crowns of the walls with the formation of cracks under the pressure of heaving soils.

Most often, for the construction of a wooden building, a pile or pile-grillage foundation is used, less often for small frame houses You can use a strip, shallow version of the foundation base. Timber beams, like any wooden structural element, are especially sensitive to moisture and dampness, therefore best choice There will be the use of pile-grillage types of foundation. In addition, proper arrangement of air and ventilation plinth parts buildings will provide good protection timber and long service life.

Laying timber walls

After installing the waterproofing, the first crown row of beams is laid on the grillage or foundation strip. When constructing a foundation strip in concrete surface sealed in increments of 60-70 cm anchor bolts, with the help of which the first row of timber is attached.

When laying out the first crown, you will need to make every effort to accurately align it with the horizon. concrete base under the beam If it was not possible to make a horizon, you will need to trim the surface of the timber, otherwise the next rows wooden beams they will lie unevenly, and the walls will turn out crooked. The trimming procedure sometimes has to be used, especially if the beams themselves have slight deviations. All cuts and surfaces must be treated with antiseptics and preservatives. At the next stage, in increments of 40-50 cm, logs are laid under the future floor.

Usually, before construction begins, wooden material is sorted and rejected to get rid of the most defective and crooked timber. Rejected parts are used for short inserts and tie-ins.

The connection and joining of the timber is carried out in the classic way, corners and side joints are connected “half-tree” with the obligatory ligation of the next row with a solid beam, as in the photo.

In the corners and at the insertion points of ceiling beams, joists and internal bulkheads, a dowel must be hammered in, connecting at least three rows of timber. In this case, you can use not only metal, but also a two-wedge version made of the same wood as the wall material.

Sometimes corner joints are made in the form of a dovetail joint or a dressing with a T-shaped joint.

As the timber is laid on the walls, tie-ins are made simultaneously cross beams, on which they will be mounted internal partitions and floors. But until the construction and erection of the wooden frame of the building is completed, partitions cannot be installed. Even temporary working platforms for moving along walls are reduced to two or three boards.

During the construction of walls, the frame and vertical panels of the outer parts, porch, hallway, and outbuildings are assembled. They are also left uncovered for now.

Only after the ceiling beams have been laid and the rafter system with lathing, you can move on to laying floors, installing partitions and bulkheads.

Finishing and finishing operations

If the construction of a wooden house from timber is made from dry or high-quality glued material, after six months you can install the roof. Otherwise, they put in a draft version. Roof installation usually involves the use sliding joint at the fulcrum point of the rafter on the top row of timber, used as a mauerlat. At the ridge run, pairs of rafters are connected using a steel plate and bolts. Thus, during the process of settlement and subsidence of the walls, the rafter beams have the ability to change the slope, thereby compensating for the formation of a gap between the roof and the upper beam. Immediately after assembling the rafters, the sheathing is filled, a vapor barrier and waterproofing material are laid.

The roof gables are temporarily covered with vertical clapboard and covered with plastic film until the shrinkage processes are completed. Finishing operations begin after the building has been standing for a year. Finishing comes down to repeated treatment with an antiseptic, caulking of cracks, installation of bulkheads and door hatches, windows. The internal surfaces of wooden walls after thermal insulation are most often covered with plasterboard.

Conclusion

Construction of a log house requires at least skills in working with wood and good knowledge of the methods and methods of joining timber. Having built a bathhouse or a small shed with your own hands, you can move on to building a summer house, and only after successfully building a wooden country house is it worth trying to work in a team of professional carpenters in order to fully understand the intricacies of building a house from timber.

Today, the demand for wooden houses is constantly increasing, and this is not surprising. Natural wood is environmentally friendly natural material, which maintains the desired microclimate in the room, is lightweight and easy to handle. Wooden walls are built from:

• Regular, profiled and laminated timber.
• Rounded and solid logs.
• Lining and block house (these options are only suitable for cladding).

Types of wood

The wood used for work undergoes preliminary antiseptic treatment. This procedure does not require large amounts of time and money, and its results are:

• Preventing the possibility of fungus formation.
• Reliable protection insect repellent material.
• Increased resistance to mechanical damage.

The types of wood used differ in their properties and operational characteristics. For example, spruce is practically not subject to changes in volume, and pine has an open cellular structure, which ensures moisture and air tightness. The durability of the building being built largely depends on the types of wood used and the location of felling, since the quality of this material is influenced by negative impact unfavorable climatic and weather factors.

Construction of houses from logs

Freshly cut coniferous trees are used to build walls from solid logs. Hand-cut houses are classics of wooden housing construction. The crowns are stacked on top of each other in special grooves cut out with an axe. The resulting seams need to be caulked with tow.

Smooth rounded logs are produced using a machine processing method. Thanks to this technology, the resulting material has a strictly specified geometric shape. All the necessary locks and grooves are created at the factory, and the construction of the building resembles the assembly of a construction set.

Houses made of rounded logs need to be impregnated with special protective compounds and painted. The disadvantage of rounding is that the raw material is often uneven or curved, and during processing the most durable outer layer is ground off.

Construction of timber walls

The process of constructing walls from timber natural humidity much simpler. This material is easy to process and affordable. Its disadvantages include significant shrinkage upon drying and susceptibility to cracking.
A popular option is to use dry profiled timber that has undergone the procedure chamber drying. It can be comb-shaped or made in the form of a tongue-and-groove profile.

Dowels and metal staples are used to fasten individual elements. The corners of the casing crown must be assembled “half-tree”, and the subsequent ones - on dowels or tenons. The pronounced structure of natural wood used for the production of laminated and profiled timber eliminates the need for additional surface finishing after completion of the work.