As you know, good and high-quality repairs any room is impossible without leveling the walls. The most expensive and modern finishing materials will look awkward on crooked walls. And, conversely, even the simplest finish will look respectable and expensive on perfectly flat and smooth panels.
The methods of leveling walls themselves vary in their specificity and depend on the initial state of the wall, its type and degree of curvature.
To determine which leveling methods are necessary in a particular case, it is necessary to determine the degree of unevenness of the wall. To do this, you need to take a rule or level 2-2.5 meters long. Apply it to the wall vertically, starting from the corner and mark the points of contact between the level and the wall. Perform the same operation horizontally from floor to ceiling. This marks the most convex sections of the wall.
Then a level is applied to these points and the depth of the gap is measured. If the gap depth is more than 10-15 mm, it would be more advisable to use drywall. If this figure is less, then traditional plaster can be used.
For application plaster mixture on the walls you need to prepare: products personal protection, container for solution, mixer, grater 40x40 cm, felt grater, grater 70x10 cm, spatula, sandpaper of different grain sizes, level, drill, roller, brush. You will also need the following materials: gypsum plaster, finishing putty, acrylic primer, concrete contact, beacon profile 6 mm.
Leveling walls with plaster mortar
Before starting work, you should make sure that there are no hidden wiring in the wall. If there are cracks on the wall, they should be repaired with a narrow spatula. Remove loose old plaster. Clean the walls from old wallpaper, dust and dirt. Prime with concrete contact for better adhesion of the plaster to the wall. Concrete contact is applied with a short-pile roller, and in places inaccessible to a roller - with a brush. Next, install beacons.
A plaster strip is laid out at the location where the beacon is installed, into which it is pressed. Verticality is checked with a level. Beacons are installed first on opposite sides of the wall. Then you need to tighten the cord in 3 places: at the top of the profile, at the bottom and in the middle. After this, you can install intermediate beacons so that their comb touches the cord. The distance between them is determined by the length of the tool with which the plaster will be applied.
Pour a certain amount of plaster into a container with water. Mix using a drill with a mixing attachment and let the solution sit for 5 minutes. Mix again. To apply a layer of less than 15 mm, the solution must have medium viscosity. Using a trowel, apply the solution onto a trowel or wide spatula. And use a spatula to level the mixture on the wall between the beacons. Apply plaster to all areas of the wall in this way.
If it is necessary to apply plaster in a layer greater than 15 mm, then the solution must be applied in several layers. Moreover, the initial layer must be liquid. They need to spray the wall and, without leveling, let it dry. This is done for better adhesion of the layers. When this layer dries, it is necessary to apply another, thicker layer and smooth it with a trowel. Before applying the next layer, the previous layer must be primed. For maximum smoothness of the walls, you can use finishing putty. It is applied in a thin layer to the entire surface of the wall. After drying, the putty is cleaned with sandpaper or a felt float. In rooms with high humidity Cement plaster is used instead of gypsum plaster.
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How to properly glue gypsum boards to the wall?
Methods for leveling walls with plasterboard using glue: a - on a frame, b - using the back-frame method.
Walls can be covered with plasterboard only in cases where the unevenness of the walls does not exceed 2 cm. In order to level the surface of the walls with plasterboard, you need to purchase the following materials:
- GKL 12.5 mm;
- drywall adhesive;
- adhesive reinforcing tape (serpyanka);
- sandpaper;
- putty;
- acrylic primer.
You will also need the following tools: a knife for cutting drywall, a trowel, a level, a narrow spatula, a roller, a container for diluting glue and a drill with an attachment for stirring it.
First you need to clean the walls from peeling plaster. Then apply an acrylic primer to the surface with a roller. Prepare the adhesive solution and mix it well with a mixer. Apply glue to the sheet with a trowel in small sheets at a distance of 40 cm. Use a level to determine where a larger volume of glue is required. When gluing the sheet adhesive composition spreads and fills the entire space between the wall and the drywall. Next, you need to level the sheet using a level. Each subsequent sheet is glued in the same way.
Then it is necessary to seal the joints between the sheets. To do this, you need to stick serpyanka onto the joints, apply the putty evenly with a spatula and, after it dries, treat the joints with sandpaper. If the height of the room exceeds the length of the gypsum board sheet, which is 2.5 m, then you will need to cover the remaining space with pieces of drywall cut to size in a checkerboard pattern.
Many people would like to see their home beautiful and cozy. Smooth walls- recipe for success! Let's look at how to correctly level the walls with your own hands. We will separately consider the algorithm for leveling with plasterboard, and separately with plaster.
There is no sadder story in the world than the story about an apartment, the walls of which, with their bizarre curves, are more reminiscent of a rippling sea... Surely many of you have seen something similar in life: in Soviet time delivery of objects was not always carried out in accordance with all standards, and therefore plasterers had the widest opportunities for self-expression.
Jokes aside, but often there is absolutely no desire to look at such art. We need to level the long-suffering walls!
What to choose: plaster or drywall?
Surely even a person far from “construction” knows that there are two main ways to improve crooked walls: plaster and drywall. How to choose the method that is suitable for your case?
Making a choice is not that difficult. First, the degree of curvature of the walls should be established. To do this, you should use the so-called sagging. Approximately at the ceiling level, retreating to a distance of about 30-40 centimeters from the corner, drive in a nail. It should protrude by about 25-30 millimeters. A plumb line (thread or twine) is attached to it, which is again attached to a nail at the bottom of the wall.
In both cases, the cord must be attached strictly behind the nail head to avoid errors when measuring curvature. Measure the indicators in three or four places (distance from the wall to the cord). The greater the difference in numbers, the more plaster will be used and the more expensive it will be to level the wall with its help. However, you should not be guided only by this. Let's look at the main pros and cons of each technology.
If the walls are so crooked that the waves are easy to notice without resorting to hanging, all the more reason to use drywall.
Advantages and disadvantages of plaster
Benefits of plaster
- Firstly, it is very durable. If everything is done “according to the mind”, then oh major renovation You can forget the walls with a light heart for about thirty years.
- Secondly, a well-plastered wall does not impose any restrictions on hanging furniture; it is durable and reliable. There are no cavities left under the plaster, and therefore you are not in danger of a sudden invasion of mice or the formation of a mold plantation.
Disadvantages of plaster
- The work is “wet”; mechanical processing of the walls is often required. As a result, there is a lot of waste, which in the case of the ninth floor (and the absence of a freight elevator) is extremely undesirable.
- The work takes a lot of time and requires certain skills.
- As we have already said, a very uneven wall will require a large volume of plaster mixture. Considering that they are not at all cheap these days, such repairs may become unaffordable for a limited budget.
Advantages and disadvantages of drywall
Benefits of drywall
- The work is “dry” and done very quickly. If the process is organized correctly, minimal waste is generated.
- With the help of drywall, you can bring to mind, without spending your annual salary, even such a wall, the degree of curvature of which exceeds 30 degrees.
- If you would like to see exquisite shapes wall niches, you dream about LED backlight and other “delights”, then drywall is definitely your choice.
- Finally, using sound insulation and thermal insulation (the same basalt wool, for example), you can significantly increase the comfort of your home.
Disadvantages of drywall
- Firstly, with large “dungeons” the possibility of hanging furniture becomes very doubtful, and you will probably have to forget about heavy pictures in frames.
- Mice love to live behind drywall (in rural conditions), and if the wall is wet, then the formation of mold and mildew colonies is possible.
- When using this method, the internal volume of the room suffers.
So what should you choose?
So. If you are interested in quick repair, you want to make your home more beautiful with wall niches, or you need to hide a bunch of wires and other communications, then drywall becomes excellent choice. The same applies to situations where the walls are very crooked (it is far from a fact that the plaster will stick to them at all), additional insulation and/or soundproofing of the room is required.
It is better to improve truly “terrible” walls with plasterboard: less labor costs, and more profitable from a financial point of view.
Plaster is the choice of those who are not afraid of large amounts of construction waste, long duration of work, their relative labor intensity and considerable cost (especially in the case of hiring professional workers). A bonus is the exceptional durability of the coating; you can even hang it on such walls. storage boiler, not to mention the furniture. In addition, plaster does not “eat up” the internal volume (however, this still depends on the characteristics of the walls), and modern mixtures allow you to create a very interesting texture.
We hope that you were able to decide on the method. Now we will look at the stages of work and the required materials.
How to level walls with plaster using beacons in 3 stages?
What is required for plastering walls?
First, let's list the main tools:
- You can’t do without a hammer drill, which will please the ears of your neighbors.
- You need a mixer (in extreme cases, a drill attachment will also work).
- Spatula, trowel and grater, where would we be without them?
- Plumb.
- Hammer and trojan (steel chisel).
- Beacons (wooden or metal slats).
- Rules (emphasis on penultimate syllable). Needed for leveling a layer of plaster on the wall.
- Plaster and metal mesh (if the curvature of the wall exceeds 20-30 mm).
Finally, you will need a ready-made plaster mixture, or the required amount of cement and sand if you do it yourself. You also can’t do without a primer.
Stage 1: Preparing the walls for work
In order for the solution to “cling” to the surface better, it is necessary to deepen the seams on the masonry (if we are talking about brick wall) by approximately 10 mm. Some craftsmen advise leaving “sags” on the masonry, but they often get in the way. In a word, it is better to chop them off. If you are planning to plaster concrete wall, then it is advisable to make notches on its surface. Their length is at least 150 mm, depth is about 3 mm. The tools used for this type of work are a regular hammer and a Trojan. Experts advise making at least 200 cuts for each square meter surfaces. The wall is then thoroughly cleaned with a steel brush and lightly sprayed with water.
It is advisable to knock down all large influxes. Cracks and chips should be repaired with putty. If a thick layer of plaster is required, pre-fill the wall with metal mesh. Attach it to dowels (step approximately 20 cm). Plastic spacers are placed between the wall and the mesh, focusing on the results of the hanging (to achieve ideal straightness). The worst thing is when you have to cook wooden wall. First, the boards are slightly pricked to avoid their deformation. Next, shingles or the same metal mesh are stuffed onto the wall. Please note that it is secured by first laying wooden or plastic spacers.
After this, the walls are carefully primed using deep penetration compounds. Concrete lintels are treated with special solutions (Betokontakt, for example), and then covered with plaster mesh. Before the actual start of work, the floors are swept of debris and plastic film, paper or other similar material is laid on them, so that later you do not have to work hard scraping off the frozen plaster.
Stage 2: Preparation of the solution
It is important to remember that the result of all your work largely depends on the correct preparation of the solution, so we advise you to take this stage of work as seriously as possible.
Firstly, all materials used (except ready-made mixtures) sieved through sieves with cells no larger than 3x3 mm (maximum 5x5 mm). All lumps, impurities and debris must be removed! To mix the composition, you need to use a container of suitable volume so that the mixture does not splash out. Using a mixer, bring it to a completely homogeneous state, and then take it out and look: if plaster mortar drips off immediately, add more binder. If it is too sticky, add more filler and add water.
Preparation of cement-sand mortar
Pour dry sand and cement into the container and mix thoroughly. Gradually add water and stir until a creamy mixture forms. If you need a fast-setting solution, add a little PVA glue. To slow down the hardening, you can use any liquid dishwashing detergent.
Cement-lime mortar
The lime is placed in a plastic container (!), water is added so that the liquid covers the layer of lime. Cover the mixture with a lid and wait for the reaction to complete (carefully!). After straining the resulting substance through cheesecloth, let it sit for a day. Prepare a mixture of cement and sand (referring to the table), and use prepared lime mortar for dilution.
Mortar
As in the previous case, you will first have to extinguish the lime with water. After adding a little sand, begin to actively rub the mixture, getting rid of lumps. Gradually add the remaining sand, continuing to stir continuously. Add water if necessary. Important! Lime mortar can only be used on the day of production!
As for ready-made mixtures (in powder), they should be diluted strictly following the instructions!
Stage 3: Plastering the walls
Having dealt with the preliminary preparation, let's talk about the progress of the plastering itself. After the walls have been coated with primer, beacons are attached to the plaster mortar. Of course, this needs to be done plumb, checking the correct installation with a level. Then “skis” are applied to the beacons. This is the name given to the guide strips made from the plaster mixture you use.
How to set the distance between beacons? It all depends on the width of the rules you use, but there are a couple of general tips. Firstly, the step between them should be slightly less than the width of the rule. Secondly, at home you should not use rules larger than one and a half meters, since working with them is simply difficult.
If the wall is very crooked, first attach a metal mesh. This is done with the help of dowels, maintaining a distance between them of 15-20 cm. Do not forget about the gaskets (see above). Apply the first layer of plaster to the mesh. Laying is carried out using a trowel. The layer is leveled using the rule. After this, we wait until the first layer is completely dry, and then we repeat the process, laying the final coating.
In cases where mesh is not required, the plaster is also laid in two layers. The first is light “slaps” with a slightly uneven surface. After they have dried, lay the second layer and level it with the rule. To finally level the wall, use a grater for the second layer (until it dries). It is pressed tightly against the wall, and, making circular movements, we smooth out all the defects found. If there is such a need, you can apply a third layer.
Features of the cement-sand mixture
In this case, it is necessary to use a mounting grid, which is attached to the wall with the same dowels. The first layer is simply “rubbed in” using a grater. After it is completely dry, “skis” are rubbed on it. The second layer is applied using a trowel. Attention! This is a very complex and tedious process, so be mentally prepared for it in advance. Having completely covered the wall surface with plaster, carefully level it using the rule.
To see all this “live”, we suggest watching the thematic video.
Leveling walls with plasterboard yourself
Having dealt with plastering work, let's move on to using drywall. First, let's list the tools we need:
- Metal profiles or wooden beam.
- Self-tapping screws for wood or metal.
- Screwdriver or drill.
- Level, plumb and square.
- Construction knife.
Don't forget about little things like a hammer, jigsaw, tape measure or measuring tape.
Stage 1: Preparing the walls
As in the previous case, it will not be possible to do without preliminary work. First you need to carefully remove all the old coating. This is especially true for falling off plaster. Keep in mind that drywall itself will “eat up” a lot of interior space, so you should take advantage of any opportunity to reduce the “dead” volume! Wall priming is optional. But it is highly advisable to cover it with antiseptic agents. You remember what we talked about mold? Don’t forget to mark the line on the ceiling and floor along which the border of the new “wall” will run.
Stage 2: Frame installation
Wood or metal?
It is not so rare to come across the opinion that wooden beams are perfect for leveling walls with plasterboard. In principle, this statement is true, but not in all cases. It should be remembered that wood is an extremely unstable material. If there is high humidity in the room (bathroom or kitchen), then the use of timber is contraindicated. No matter how carefully the finishing is carried out, moisture will gradually penetrate into the wood, causing it to swell and deform.
In the most unpleasant cases, the wall may well “lead”, and all your work will go down the drain. So if you need maximum reliability, we strongly recommend using a metal profile.
Frame installation
This is the most important part of the job! If you do it carelessly, nothing good will come of it. We take measurements of the height of the walls. Installation begins with fixing the frame to the ceiling and floor, using a UD profile (guide base), securing it with dowels. The step depends on the size of the room, but you should not make it more than 30-40 cm.
When the “frame” is ready, take the CD profile onto which the drywall is directly attached. Important! The edge goes to the wall, the wide part goes into the room! It is very important not to get confused. The profile is fastened with self-tapping screws. It is very important to use ones that are specifically designed for metal. We place the first transverse profile close to the wall. The pitch is exactly 600 mm. Important! The distance should be measured not from the edges of the profile, but from the middle. The fact is that the standard width of one sheet of drywall is 1200 mm, and therefore with this method you will definitely hit the center and edges of the sheet when attaching it to the frame. Of course, it is also necessary to secure one cross member at the edge of the opposite wall, even if it is not possible to maintain a distance of 600 mm.
To make the frame as reliable as possible, perforated hangers should be used. These are ordinary strips of galvanized steel. There is a stiffening rib in the center, and the edges are perforated. They need to be bent in the shape of the letter “P”, attaching the middle to the wall. Important! Such hangers need to be screwed under each (!) vertical profile. Perforated “ears” are attached to the profile itself. If standard height If a sheet of plasterboard (2500 mm) is less than the height of the walls, then the inserts are attached only from the top or bottom. The jumpers between the UD posts are made from the same CD profile.
Stage 3: Mounting drywall sheets
The hardest part is behind us. The sheets are attached to the finished frame with ordinary black 35 mm self-tapping screws. Use a screwdriver to carefully screw them in flush. The sheet must be fastened in increments of 15 cm around the perimeter, screwing in self-tapping screws in the central part if necessary (at least 4-5 per sheet). Many manufacturers produce lined drywall, so you don’t have to run around with a ruler.
To fill the openings formed in difficult places, cut out pieces of drywall that match their shape. The easiest way is to use a construction knife for this purpose. Remember that cuts need to be made along (!) the sheet. After this, the GVL is broken and the layer of paper on the opposite part is carefully cut. Basically, that's all. Now you can start finishing. In the case of drywall, there are two types - painting and wallpapering. You can probably figure this out on your own, but you need to talk about putty in more detail.
The final touch: wall putty
Plasterboard putty for painting
It is very important to check all the screws first. They should be screwed no deeper than 5 mm from the surface of the sheet. If this is not the case, then unscrew the self-tapping screw to the required depth, and then attach another one nearby. In places where solid sheets were joined with cut pieces, you need to slightly widen the seams. This is done for better adhesion of the composition. Before filling, it is extremely important that the surface of the drywall is properly primed!
It is very important to use exactly those primers, which are specially designed for processing gypsum fiber board sheets. After work you need to wait at least 12 hours.
We begin to putty the seams. Simple gypsum plaster is ideal. It is very important not to skimp on it, since there are often cases when low-quality compounds fall off in pieces a couple of weeks after application. It is spread onto the surface of the sheets using a spatula, making sure that the seams are filled flush with the surface. The seam is immediately covered with sickle tape, and then another layer of plaster is applied. It is important to move the spatula so that it is gently pressed into the seam.
We check the correct application by placing a wide spatula across the seam: if there are no gaps, then you did everything correctly. We seal the holes from the screws as carefully as possible. We wait a day, and then we grind the surface with a zero polish. Prime the wall again.
Complete surface filling
This stage is the most difficult. You will have to apply several layers, each of which needs to be dried thoroughly. It is very important to use the same putty as in the previous step, as this will ensure that there are no cracks. At least three layers should be done. The final coating is dried for 24 hours and then sanded very efficiently. To do this, use a block on which a sanding mesh is pulled. You can also use sandpaper, but you will have to constantly change it.
After completion of the work, a visual inspection is carried out to look for remaining defects. If there are any, remove them using the same putty. The walls are primed again. And only after this layer of primer has dried, the surface is completely ready to apply paint.
Plasterboard putty under wallpaper
Let us immediately warn you that it is not necessary to putty the entire wall, since this operation has a rather weak effect on the quality of the repair itself. But! If the wallpaper is thin, then technical inscriptions on the gypsum fiber board sheet can be visible through it. But the main reason why it is better to putty plasterboard under wallpaper is somewhat different. The thing is that sooner or later you will have to change the wallpaper. If the gypsum board sheets have not been puttied, you will tear off the old coating not only with pieces of the paper “sheathing” of the drywall, but even with pieces of the gypsum itself.
After you have coated the wall with primer (according to the method described above), covered the seams and screw heads with putty, it is primed again. Important! At the second stage, two or three layers of putty are applied, each of which (after drying) is again primed. The final layer is dried, sanded and coated again with primer. The thoroughness of sanding is inversely proportional to the thickness and texture of the wallpaper used: the thicker it is, the less time can be spent on sanding.
To get a better idea of the work, watch the video.
The walls in the apartment occupy most of the visible structures of the house. If the floors can be covered various materials, and make the ceilings suspended, then you won’t be able to hide the uneven walls anywhere. Especially if there are no carpets or other coverings that distract attention, then verticality and unevenness will be immediately noticeable. Therefore, leveling the walls with your own hands is the most best option improving the interior of a room in a house (apartment).
When building houses, everything Finishing work Most often they are carried out by contract construction organizations, and in private buildings by hired teams. Often, their lack of control leads to differences along the entire length of the walls of up to 5-10 cm. Plaster made by incompetent migrant workers without using professional tool and sometimes even any experience in performing finishing, forces the owner of such a newly built home to carry out additional leveling of the walls upon moving in.
Required materials and tools
To level the walls in the apartment, the following materials are used:
- dry building mixtures, followed by dissolving them in water (dry plaster, putty, etc.)
- panels made of plastic, metal, wood boards or drywall.
To carry out leveling with wet mixtures you need a special tool:
- spatulas of two or three sizes (a tool with a rubber handle is recommended), the metal part should not be too soft,
- a basin with straight walls or a bucket with a capacity of 15-20 liters,
- a special stirrer mounted on an electric drill (manual stirring takes a lot of time and effort),
- brushes or roller for priming,
- rule - a special tool for leveling,
- surface cleaning material.
Leveling walls falls into the category of dirty work, so it is necessary to have work clothes made of tarpaulin material.
Leveling with sheet material
Due to the high labor intensity of the plastering process, many homeowners with little construction experience cover the walls with sheet material - plasterboard. This method is also loved by professional teams, also because it saves time. The panels are attached to a previously equipped metal frame or glued to the wall with special glue.
The main requirement for such work is to establish a vertical level of the wall surface when installing a metal profile.
Leveling walls with wet mixtures
The most common method remains the use of wet type wall leveling. To perform this type of work, minimal skills in using a spatula and removing beacons are required. Mixtures for leveling walls can be purchased at any store building materials. There you can also find instructions for preparing solutions.
Before the main leveling stage, you need to remove the old coating (wallpaper, whitewash, paint) from the surface. In necessary situations, flimsy, falling off old plaster in corners and other places is removed. In practice, most often the entire old coating is cleared down to the base concrete or brickwork.
The procedure for leveling walls begins with measuring differences along the entire length of the wall. This can be done using a long special tool - a building level. Or by stretching any cord along the wall. The verticality of the surface is measured using a simple plumb line. If there are differences of no more than 30 mm, start working. Largest layer laid plaster should not exceed the permissible dimensions.
Alignment by beacons
Preparing the surface for painting is most often done using beacons that serve as a guide. The initial leveling of the walls with putty is done by applying it between the beacons and distributing the solution from the bottom up. The ends of the tool must be in contact with the surface of the beacons installed along the entire height of the wall at a certain distance from each other, corresponding to the length of the rule.
The final leveling of the walls consists of grouting the surface with a special device - a plower. After completion, it is recommended to apply a primer over the putty for better paint adhesion.
Working with spatulas
If you have no experience working with the rule, you can use two spatulas. One will serve as a "palette". It will be possible to dose the quality and quantity of the solution. And another spatula, a smaller one, will be working. They apply a layer of the mixture to the wall. When using a spatula, it should be held at an angle of 45º to the surface. In this position the mixture will lie evenly.
Surfaces are usually applied in three layers, each with a thickness of at least 1.5-2 mm. The room temperature should not be lower than 10º C and the applied putty should not be exposed to sunlight. After applying the putty, the wall must be primed.
Or putty.
How well this part of the work is carried out will directly determine the appearance of the finished surface and its performance qualities.
If pre-treatment is neglected, the uneven base may begin to deform and crack over time, which will ruin the aesthetics of the top, finishing coating.
Any type cosmetic repairs, or painting, tiling, requires an indispensable preparatory procedure. It can be done by hired finishing specialists, but you can do it yourself.
First you need to inspect the entire room, determine the size and nature of defects and irregularities. Without this, it will be difficult to plan the progress of upcoming work.
What is the best way to level the walls, how to do it easily and quickly?
To accurately assess vertical flaws, you can use a water or.
This way the degree of curvature of existing defects will be more clearly visible.
When the assessment activities are completed, the actual leveling of the wall surfaces begins.
How to level a wall yourself. Preparation
Depending on the type and size of flaws, the number of defects and irregularities, there are various methods for leveling walls.
- Dry. Involves installation of auxiliary structures different types. For example, this could be drywall. The method is more labor-intensive, because it will require the manufacture of a frame on which sheets of material will then be attached.
- Raw. This method involves the use of special construction compounds: putty and plaster, including. This method is well suited for uneven areas ranging in size from three to five centimeters. All holes are carefully sealed with mortar, and the resulting unevenness is carefully smoothed out.
Required materials and tools
For each type of finishing construction work materials are needed that are impossible to do without. To level the walls you will have to stock up on:
Types of mixtures
Numerous manufacturers finishing materials offer different kinds solutions with different properties and compositions. Based on their main characteristics, they can be divided into the following groups.
Cement
They have some disadvantages: drying time, not very good adhesion to, slight cracking. The first type of mixtures can be considered more universal.
Plaster
Gypsum-based compositions are especially popular for work.
Leveling the surface with gypsum allows you to apply a fairly wide layer that dries quickly, has excellent ductility, and high heat and sound insulation properties.
There are special gypsum compositions - rotgypsum and rotbands: special additives in them significantly increase adhesive properties.
Heat-saving
Straw, sawdust and other materials are used as filler. natural materials, thanks to which it is possible to maintain an optimal microclimate in the room.
Wall leveling process
Leveling walls with plaster
What is the structure of the wall preparation work?
Before starting work on leveling the walls, it is important to carry out special preparatory work: dismantle the old coating, evaluate work surface, intended for .
It should not delaminate or crumble. Often, already in the process of working on the old layer, after the freshly applied layer has dried, defects that were not visible before become noticeable. To ensure that the result of the work performed pleases you, observe the following conditions:
- the wall must be properly maintained;
- the construction mixture must be chosen wisely;
- beacons are required.
For brickwork It is best to use one of the types of cement mixtures, the cost of which is very low. The material can be applied in a fairly thick layer, which is especially important when treating masonry walls. But it is important to remember that if the applied layer is thicker than two centimeters, a plaster mesh is certainly used to reinforce the composition.
For processing smooth concrete surface Gypsum-based leveling compounds are suitable. They contain microparticles of quartz, which give the surface some roughness. Before this, the wall must be primed. A polymer mesh of five by five millimeters is used for reinforcement.
For foam concrete surfaces They also use gypsum-based mixtures with mandatory preliminary priming.
Installation of beacons
What are called lighthouses in construction?
These are unique guides that help control the leveling of the surface when using liquid products. In this capacity, a special perforated profile is usually used under the plaster, the width of which is determined by the thickness of the applied composition.
It is very convenient to use purchased factory products that do not have to be cleaned after the event, and, accordingly, mask the resulting unevenness.
Such beacons are placed vertically on strips of quick-hardening mixture intended for plastering. The distance between individual beacons is calculated according to the size of the rule so that it does not slide off them, relying on a pair of neighboring ones.
Plaster application technique
To do this, you will need a tool with a handle, which is called a “falcon”: in appearance it resembles a familiar trowel, but has a much larger base. Using such a “falcon” and a trowel, an excess amount of solution is thrown into the gap between the individual beacons.
The mixture is scooped up from the “falcon” with a trowel, then thrown onto the wall. The use of such a device improves labor productivity, since there is no need to constantly approach the working container for the mixture. And this reduces the time required for the event.
Next, the solution is carefully distributed from bottom to top. To apply a more voluminous and massive layer of plaster, make a rough outline without leveling. When this preliminary layer dries, a finishing mark is carried out, which must be leveled.
Leveling the wall with putty
Before starting work, the surface is primed. The process of puttying with your own hands is not difficult.
But the method is not suitable in all cases: leveling the wall in this way is only possible if the height differences are not very significant.
What will you need for the job?
You will need:
- narrow and wide spatulas,
- low cuvette.
The mixture should have a thick enough consistency so that the mixture formed during stirring does not change its shape.
Over time, the composition begins to thicken, so a little primer or water is added to it periodically.
If the mixture has the required thickness, then it does not slide off the spatula and adheres perfectly to a vertical surface.
The diluted putty is transferred to a cuvette and covered to prevent it from drying out.
A small amount of the composition is applied to the surface with a spatula, which is then leveled with uniform vertical and horizontal movements.
Holding the spatula at a certain angle, the mixture is distributed to a thickness of 1-2 millimeters: the greater the angle formed by the spatula and the surface, the smaller the thickness of the mixture. It is convenient to fix the spatula blade with the second hand.
When the composition has set slightly, it is washed using a primer. This removes various irregularities and sagging. When the first layer is completely dry, which will take at least a day after washing, it is treated with fine sandpaper, getting rid of roughness.
If you plan to apply a second layer, then the previously puttied surface is primed again.
If you skip this procedure, moisture may be absorbed into the already applied one. After about a day, the surface is sanded again. For convenience, it is wound on a small block or small board.
Drywall
It is not uncommon to encounter walls that are very uneven and have large gouges and gouges. These are almost impossible to fix with plastering.
It is best to use drywall for this purpose.
Getting rid of unevenness with its help can be considered one of the most effective, and at the same time low-budget options.
It can be carried out with or without a frame.
Aligning the walls with the frame
If you prefer the frame method, then you first need to make the frame itself - sheets of material will be mounted on it.
It can be made from:
- metal profile (rack and guide)
- or wooden beam.
The latter is less durable, since wood is susceptible to moisture, microorganisms, and can become deformed. Yes, and it is somewhat more difficult to install. It is for this reason that a metal profile often acts as a base.
To construct the frame, we screw a pair of parallel profiles (in relation to each other) to the ceiling.
After 40-60 cm, taking into account the width of the sheet, we place guides. At this stage, it is most rational to carry out insulation with foam plastic or mineral wool, if there are intentions to do so.
When the frame is ready, they begin to attach plasterboard sheets to it. To do this, you will need special self-tapping screws made of oxidized metal.
The distance between individual fasteners should be from 40 to 60 centimeters. The hats are slightly “recessed” into the material.
Leveling walls without a frame
The frameless method has significant differences. Sheets of material are attached directly to the surface to be finished using glue. The obvious disadvantage of this method is that walls with large-scale defects cannot be corrected with its help.
There are other ways to level walls. For this they use plastic panels or sheets of durable plywood. The technology for their installation is similar to that with drywall, only wooden blocks are used instead.
It's easy and pretty economical way, which is popular. Among other things, it allows you to mask all communications. It is actively used when decorating bathrooms, country houses and garages.
The durability and appearance of the finishing of the walls largely depend on the quality and correctness of the preliminary leveling of the base. Before you start decorating the walls with tiles, wallpaper, paint and other materials, it is necessary to eliminate unevenness and any kind of surface defects. Even the slightest flaws will lead to noticeable deterioration over time. appearance finishing, and you will have to do the repair again.
The curvature of the walls can be leveled in two main ways, namely:
- wet, involving the use of various types of mixtures;
- dry, carried out by arranging plasterboard structures.
Both methods have many advantages and some disadvantages.
Plaster is usually used to eliminate minor differences (up to 30-50 mm) in small walls. If desired, of course, more significant defects in large rooms can be eliminated with the help of a plaster mixture, but this will lead to irrational financial and labor costs.
Building mixtures do not reduce free space, and this is their main advantage. However wet leveling inevitably accompanied by the formation of dust and contaminants.
Drywall allows you to eliminate large differences and uneven surfaces.
The main advantage of plasterboard structures is that there is no need to pre-level the base before installing the frame and the sheathing sheets themselves. It is only important that there are no crumbling areas of finishing.
In addition, the cells of the supporting structure can be filled with noise and thermal insulation materials. If necessary, various types of communications can be easily hidden in a plasterboard structure.
At the same time, the installation of the frame and sheets leads to a slight reduction in the usable space of the room.
Simple and moisture-resistant modifications of drywall are available for sale. Material with moisture-resistant properties usually has green color, simple gray drywall.
| Thickness | Size | Square | Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12.5 mm | 1200x2500 mm | 3 sq.m | 28.9 kg |
| 12.5 mm | 1200x2700 mm | 3.24 sq.m | 31.2 kg |
| 12.5 mm | 1200x3000 mm | 3.6 sq.m | 34.7 kg |
Preparing walls for leveling
Before you begin leveling the walls, the surface must be properly prepared. Particularly important is the preparation of the base before plastering. In the case of arranging a plasterboard structure, preliminary preparation can be abandoned in most situations.
Preparation comes down to removing the existing finish and old plaster. Next, the surface is primed. Brushes and rollers can be used to apply the primer layer, but the best results are achieved when using a sprayer. Thanks to the primer, the quality of adhesion of the plaster to the base surface will be improved.
The primer dries in approximately 12 hours. After this time, you can begin applying the plaster composition.
Leveling walls with plaster
The work begins with the installation of special beacon lines. They will allow you to apply the plaster with the highest quality possible.
First step
Attach the beacons to different sides of the wall being treated. Check the vertical installation of the profiles with a plumb line.
Second step
Prepare about 10 liters cement mortar(you simply won’t have time to use more until the mixture becomes unusable). Instead of cement plaster other existing mixtures can be used.
Third step
Apply the plaster solution in large strokes to the surface between the beacon profiles.
Fourth step
Carefully level the applied mixture along the beacon profiles. For leveling, use a rule or a simple even strip of suitable length.
Add the mixture and spread it over the surface until the base is level with the beacons.
Carefully trim the corners with a spatula.
If you decide to use a factory-made dry mixture, prepare and apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions. When choosing such a mixture, be sure to pay attention to the type of “binding” component.
Thus, gypsum-based mixtures are intended for use in living rooms, because... gypsum does not disturb the normal indoor microclimate. Cement plasters are better suited for bathrooms, kitchens and other rooms with high levels of air humidity.
Leveling the base with drywall
If the size of the base unevenness exceeds 50 mm, it would be more rational to use the wall leveling method, which involves installing a plasterboard structure.
No special preparation is required - the main thing is that there are no crumbling fragments on the walls. Clean such areas if found.
The frame for fastening plasterboard sheets is assembled from a galvanized profile specially designed for this purpose. Several types of profiles are used.
The main UD profile is attached to the ceiling, floor and adjacent walls. The jumper functions are performed by the CD profile.
First step. Attach the vertical profile to the previously listed surfaces. Use dowels to secure. The result should be a reliable support frame.
The first profile should be installed directly next to the side wall. Attach the following profiles in increments of 60 cm. The second outermost profile must also be fixed close to the wall, even if the distance between it and the nearest profile is less than 60 cm.
The standard width of the sheathing sheet is 120 cm. With the mentioned step of placing the profiles, the plasterboard panel will be fixed at the edges and in the center. In this case, measure the distance from the center of the profiles.
Second step. Proceed to install the jumpers from the CD guides. Sheathing sheets will be attached to these profiles.
Attach the profiles with their edges to the surface of the base, turning them with their wide edges into the room.
Use self-tapping screws to connect the profiles.
To strengthen the structure, it is necessary to include special hangers in its composition. There are stiffening ribs in the center of the hangers; the ends of the products are perforated.
The hanger must be bent in the shape of the letter P and attached to the wall under each vertical profile. Place the fasteners in the center of the suspension. Attach the “ears” of the suspensions to the profiles.
Check that the profiles are installed evenly.
Proceed with the installation of sheathing sheets. Use self-tapping screws for fastening. At this stage, you will need an electric screwdriver - with its help the work will go easier and faster.
Embed the screw caps into the material. Place screws in increments of 100-150 mm. Fastening is carried out in the center of the sheet and along its perimeter. Usually on the front plasterboard sheets Center lines are present to facilitate fixation.
If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire height of the surface, add pieces of drywall in the missing places. The technology for cutting sheets is as follows: you cut the top paper layer, carefully break the sheet in the required place and cut the second paper layer.
Attach additional pieces to the CD profile jumpers fixed between the vertical posts.
After covering the entire frame, all you have to do is putty the joints of the sheets, treat the surface with a primer and perform finishing selected material.
Good luck!
Video - How to level walls with your own hands
