The first quadcopter, as we know, appeared in 2006. The drone was assembled by German developers Busker and Buss, and they did it themselves. And so it began: many engineers around the world got excited about the idea of ​​​​creating their own quadcopter models. There are such craftsmen today. You want to assemble your own quadcopter too. Otherwise, would you start reading this material now?

Where to start to make a quadcopter with your own hands?

1. Frame. It can be done without special labor from plastic pipes of small diameter used in laying sewer and other communications. You can make a frame from a piece of plywood. You will need a square 110 by 110 mm. In addition, you will need aluminum profile(square). The beams (495 mm long) are attached with screws along both diagonals of the resulting square. It is possible to purchase a finished frame (pic. below).\

The copter's landing skis can be made from low-profile aluminum. You can also use it to make a battery holder.

2 . Next, you will need equipment, for example Turnigy 9XR, control board and battery for equipment. In addition, you need to purchase a power Li-Po battery (for the quadcopter itself), propellers, and a device for recharging the batteries.

3 . First of all, the control board is installed - in the central part of the platform made of the resulting piece of plywood or carbon fiber. This is done in grooves directly drilled into the aluminum base through the plywood.

4 . A receiver is installed next to the board (you can do this with superglue). Next, holes are drilled to mount the engine. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the distance from the edge to the axis in all four cases is equal.

5 . Then you need to make a “spider” from wires - from the speed controllers. The wiring must be connected in parallel using appropriate adapters. The connectors can be used in the place where the battery is connected to the spider.

6 . Everything needs to be soldered, heat-shrinkable, and wires (signal) connected. For beginners this will be a big problem.

7 . You can test the resulting quadcopter.
Craftsmen who have already successfully assembled quadcopters advise not to skimp on components. This note is especially important now, when there are many different microdevices on the market, including controllers and sensors. Each can be used to make a drone yourself, but not everyone can meet the developer's expectations.

The easiest option is to purchase a ready-made board with already installed sensors(gyroscope, accelerometer, barometer, magnetometer).

What are they needed for?

A gyroscope is needed to control angular acceleration, an accelerometer measures gravity, a barometer is responsible for the altitude gained, and a magnetometer is responsible for the direction of movement. Today there are boards on the market that also have GPS receivers.

Before assembling a quadcopter with your own hands, we advise you to read the advice of professionals (those who have made drones themselves more than once), because for beginners it will not be so easy:

• The first “drone” should not have a camera for photography or video shooting, it is your first job, the task of which is to take off, stay confidently in the air and not break on the first flight;
• Don't chase scale. It is better to build a smaller and bulkier, but working quadcopter;
• Try to use a minimum of connections and additional elements. A lot of sensors and controllers are not justified in all cases,
• If you decide to make a quadcopter with your own hands with a camera, then know that for High Quality The pictures will require a larger base. “Setting” it on the device is much more difficult, and in general the structure with it becomes less stable and strong.

If you don’t have time to assemble or just patience, we recommend reading.

• Tutorial

I have described the entire assembly and configuration process, and below there will be a slightly modified version containing more information from my previous articles.

I’ll leave the question of getting into this hobby out of the question and move directly to the quadcopter.

Choosing a quadcopter size

A year ago, 250-size quadcopters were the most popular. But now pilots prefer to assemble smaller devices, which is very reasonable: the weight is less, but the power is the same. I chose the 180 size not for any practical reasons, but as a kind of assembly challenge.

In fact, this approach to selection is not entirely correct. It is much more reasonable to first choose the size of the propellers, and then, under them, the smallest frame into which the selected propellers will fit. And with this approach, the 180 format is generally rejected. Judge for yourself: the 210 format allows you to install the same 5-inch propellers as the 250, while the quad itself is lighter, and 4-inch propellers fit into 160 frames. It turns out that the 180th size is an intermediate format that is “neither ours nor yours.” It can also be considered a weighted 160. But, nevertheless, I chose him. Perhaps because it minimum size, capable of towing more or less comfortably GoPro camera or Runcam.

Accessories

Let's start with the engines. The “intermediate” size of 180, as well as the richness of their range, makes the choice difficult. On the one hand, you can take what goes on the 160s, on the other hand, what is installed on the 210s or even 250s. You need to start from the propellers and batteries (number of cans). I don't see the point in using a 3S battery, but for the propellers general rules are:

• you need maximum static thrust - increase the propeller diameter and decrease the pitch (within reasonable limits)
• needed high speed- reduce the diameter and increase the pitch (within reasonable limits)
• you need high thrust with a small diameter - add the number of blades (again within reasonable limits, since if the difference between two- and three-bladed propellers is noticeable, then between three- and four-bladed ones it is not so big)

In my case, I have a 4" propeller size limit, but no motor limit. This means that the smartest thing to do would be to use three-bladed 4045 bullnose propellers. They are difficult to balance, but they make the controls more responsive and predictable, and the sound is quieter. On the other hand, with two-blade propellers the speed of the quadcopter is higher, but I definitely don’t need that. “People” use the following setups on 180 frames:

• lightweight with 1306-3100KV motors, conventional 4045 propellers and 850mAh battery
• heavy and powerful for three-bladed bullnose propellers and an action camera with 2205-2600KV motors and 1300mAh battery

In fact, the frame allows you to install motors from 1306-4000KV to 22XX-2700KV. By the way, I don’t know why, but 1806-2300KV motors are now out of favor and little used.

For my quad, I took the motors - RCX H2205 2633KV. Firstly, I wanted to have a power reserve (although with my modest piloting skills, it’s unclear why). Secondly, my setups have never turned out to be super-light, in addition, I also plan to carry an action camera. Specifically, RCX motors are a compromise option. They are cheap, but there are many complaints about the quality. At the time of purchasing the components, these were one of the few 2205-2600KV motors on the market. Now (at the time of writing) the assortment is much larger and it is better to choose something else.
With the rest of the components I acted on the principle of “more challenge”:

Selecting a flight controller

You may have noticed that there is no flight controller on the list. I would like to describe his choice in more detail. Inexpensive building kits often include a CC3D controller, so now this is perhaps the cheapest PC. There is absolutely no point in buying CC3D today. It is outdated and does not have such necessary things as battery control and a beeper. Its successor, CC3D Revolution, is a completely different product with rich capabilities, but also a price of over 40 €.
Modern flight controllers have already switched from F1 to F3 processors, making the Naze32 a last-generation PC and significantly reducing its price. Now this is truly a people's controller, which has almost everything your heart desires for a price starting from 12 €.
Of the new generation PCs, Seriously Pro Racing F3 is the most popular, primarily due to the availability of inexpensive clones. The controller itself is in no way inferior to Naze32, in addition it has a fast F3 processor, a large number of memory, three UART ports, built-in inverter for S.Bus. It was SPRacingF3 Acro that I chose. Other modern PCs were not considered due to price or some specific features (closed firmware, layout, etc.)
Separately, I would like to note the currently fashionable trend of combining several boards into one. Most often PC and OSD or PC and PDB I do not support this idea with a couple of exceptions. I don't want to have to replace the entire flight controller because the OSD is burned out. Moreover, as practice shows, sometimes such a union brings problems.

Wiring diagram

It is clear that all components that need 5V or 12V power will receive it from the BECs of the power distribution board. The camera could theoretically be powered directly from a 4S battery, since the input voltage allows this, but in no case should this be done. Firstly, all cameras are very susceptible to noise in the circuit from the regulators, which will result in noise in the picture. Secondly, regulators with active braking (such as my LittleBees), when this braking is activated, give a very serious impulse to the on-board network, which can burn the camera. Moreover, the presence of an impulse directly depends on the wear of the battery. The new ones don't have it, but the old ones do. Here's an educational one video on the topic of interference from regulators and how to filter them. So it is better to power the camera either from the BEC or from the video transmitter.
Also, for the sake of improving picture quality, it is recommended to connect not only the signal wire, but also the ground wire from the camera to the OSD. If you twist these wires into a pigtail, the ground acts as a shield for the signal wire. The truth in in this case I didn't do this.
Since we are talking about “ground”, people often argue about whether it is necessary to connect the “ground” from the regulators to the PC or whether one signal wire is enough. On a regular racing quadcopter it definitely needs to be connected. Its absence can lead to synchronization failures ( confirmation).
The final wiring diagram turned out to be simple and concise, but with a couple of nuances:

• power supply of the flight controller (5V) from the PDB via outputs for regulators
• power supply of the radio receiver (5V) from the PC via connector OI_1
• video transmitter power supply (12V) from PDB
• camera power supply (5V) from video transmitter
• OSD connected to UART2. Many people use UART1 for this, but like on Naze32, here this connector is paralleled with USB.
• Vbat is connected to the PC, not to the OSD. In theory, battery voltage (vbat) readings can be read on both the OSD and PC by connecting the battery to either one or the other. What is the difference? In the first case, the readings will be present only on the monitor or glasses screen and the PC will not know anything about them. In the second case, the PC can monitor the battery voltage, inform the pilot about it (for example, with a beeper), and also transmit this data to the OSD, to the “black box” and via telemetry to the remote control. It is also easier to adjust the accuracy of readings via a PC. That is, connecting vbat to the flight controller is much preferable.

Assembly

To begin with, a few general advice for assembly:

• Carbon conducts current. So everything needs to be well insulated so that nothing shorts to the frame anywhere.
• Anything that protrudes beyond the frame is likely to be broken or torn off in an accident. In this case, we are talking, first of all, about connectors. Wires can also be cut by a screw, so they too must be hidden.
• After soldering, it is highly advisable to cover all boards with insulating varnish PLASTIK 71, in several layers. From my own experience I will say that applying liquid varnish with a brush is much more convenient than applying it with a spray.
• It wouldn’t hurt to drop a little hot melt glue on the places where the wires are soldered to the boards. This will protect the soldering from vibrations.
• For all threaded connections, it is advisable to use Loctite medium fixation (blue).

I prefer to start the assembly with the motors and regulators. good video on assembling a small quadcopter, from which I adopted the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe arrangement of motor wires.

Separately, I would like to say about mounting the regulators: where and with what? They can be mounted on the beam and under it. I chose the first option, since it seems to me that in this position the regulator is more protected (these are my speculations, not confirmed by practice). In addition, when mounted on a beam, the regulator is perfectly cooled by air from the propeller. Now let's talk about how to secure the regulator. There are many ways, the most popular is double-sided tape + one or two zip ties. “Cheap and cheerful”, and dismantling will not cause any difficulties. The worse thing is that with such fastening you can damage the regulator board (if you put a tie on it) or the wires (if you fasten it on them). So I decided to attach the regulators with heat shrink tubing (25mm) and soldered them together with the beams. There is one caveat: the regulator itself must also be in heat shrinkage (mine were sold in it) so that the contacts do not come into contact with the carbon fiber of the beam, otherwise there will be a short circuit.

It also makes sense to stick a piece of double-sided tape on the bottom of each beam where the motor is mounted. Firstly, it will protect the motor bearing from dust. Secondly, if for some reason one of the bolts comes loose, it will not fall out during the flight and will not be lost.
When assembling the frame, I did not use a single bolt from the kit, since they were all indecently short. Instead, I bought it a little longer and with a head under Phillips screwdriver(this is a personal preference).

The camera did not fit widthwise between the side plates of the frame. I slightly processed the edges of its board with a file (rather, I sanded off the rough edges) and it stood up without any problems. But the difficulties did not end there. I really liked the quality of the camera holder from Diatone, but the camera with it did not fit into the frame in height (by about 8-10mm). At first I attached a holder to the outer (top) side of the plate through a neoprene damper, but the design turned out to be unreliable. Later came the idea of ​​making it as simple and reliable fastening. I took only a clamp from Diatone's fastening and put it on a piece of rod with M3 thread. To prevent the camera from moving sideways, I secured the clamp with nylon sleeves.

I really liked that the only connectors on the PC I had to solder were the connectors for the regulators. Full-fledged three-pin connectors did not fit in height, so I had to resort to a trick and use two-pin ones. For the first five channels (4 for regulators + 1 “just in case”) I soldered the connectors to the signal pad and ground, for the remaining three - to the plus and ground, so that the PC itself could be powered and from it - backlight. Considering that Chinese clones of flight controllers suffer from unreliable fixation of the USB connector, I soldered that too. Another feature characteristic of the SPRacingF3 clone is the tweeter connector. As in the case of vbat, on the upper side of the board there is a two-pin JST-XH connector, and on the lower side it is duplicated with contact pads. The catch is that the clone has a constant ground on the connector and when using it, the beeper will always be activated. The normal working ground for the tweeter is connected only to the contact pad. This can be easily checked by a tester: the “plus” of the connector is connected to the “plus” on the contact pad, but the “minus” is not connected. Therefore, you need to solder the wires for the “beeper” to the bottom side of the PC.

The three-pin connectors of the regulators also had to be replaced. It was possible to use four two-pin plugs, but instead, I took two four-pin plugs and inserted the “ground” of all regulators into one, and the signal wire into the second (observing the order of connecting the motors).

The backlit plate is wider than the frame and protrudes from the sides. The only place where the propellers won't knock it down is under the frame. I had to do some collective farming: I took long bolts, put nylon couplings with pre-made slots on them (so that the ties securing the lighting could be fixed) and screwed them through the bottom plate into the frame posts. I used zip ties to attach a plate with LEDs to the resulting legs (the holes in the plate fit perfectly) and filled the ties with hot glue. I soldered connectors to the back of the plate.
After assembly, at the setup stage, it became clear that something was wrong with the tweeter. Immediately after connecting the battery, it began to squeak monotonously, and if you activated it from the remote control, then this monotonous squeak was superimposed on a rhythmic one. At first I made the mistake on the PC, but after measuring the voltage with a multimeter, it became clear where exactly the problem was. In fact, it was possible from the very beginning to connect a regular LED to the tweeter wires. As a result, I ordered several tweeters at once, listened to them and installed the loudest one.

Often the PDB and controller are attached to the frame with nylon bolts, but I don't trust their strength. So I used 20mm metal bolts and nylon couplings. After installing the PDB, I soldered the power supply to the regulators (the rest of the wires were soldered in advance) and filled the soldering areas with hot glue. I secured the main power wire going to the battery to the frame with a tie so that it would not be torn out in the event of an accident.

I removed all connectors from the receiver with wire cutters, except for the required three, and soldered the jumper between the third and fourth channels directly on the board. As I wrote above, it would be wiser to take a receiver without connectors. I also unwrapped his antennas and heat-shrink them. On the frame, the receiver fits nicely between the PBD and the rear rack. With this arrangement, its indicators are clearly visible and there is access to the bind button.

I secured the video transmitter with zip ties and hot glue to the top plate of the frame so that through the slot there was access to the channel switching button and LED indicators.

There is a special hole in the frame for mounting the video transmitter antenna. But you should not connect it to the transmitter directly. It turns out to be a kind of lever, where one arm is the antenna, the other is the transmitter itself with all the wires, and the place where the connector is attached will be the fulcrum, which will bear the maximum load. Thus, in the event of an accident, with almost 100% probability, the connector on the transmitter board will break off. Therefore, you need to attach the antenna through some kind of adapter or extension cord.

I decided to solder connectors to MinimOSD rather than solder wires directly. They write on the forums that this board often burns out, so it is wise to immediately prepare for a possible replacement. I took a strip with connectors in two rows, soldered the lower ones to contact pads with holes, and brought vIn and vOut to the top ones. After that, I filled the solder joints with hot glue and packed the entire board in heat shrink.

The final touch is a sticker with a phone number. It will give at least a little hope in case of loss of the quadcopter.

The assembly has now come to an end. It turned out compact and at the same time preserved access to all the necessary controls. More photos you can see

A quadcopter is a very interesting toy for adults. She is a true embodiment of new technologies in the entertainment market.

You can order a quadcopter without any problems in China, on the same Aliexpress, the electronics for it are affordable. It will be absolutely easy to control such a flyer, because there are different simulators to hone your skills. But let's consider the option of how to assemble a quadcopter with your own hands, which will not cost much.

So, all spare parts will still have to be ordered from the Chinese, here is their list:
First, you need to buy engines. You will need 4 units of them. Model D2822/14 1450kv.
Speed ​​controllers are also needed, you will also need 4 of them. I recommend the model Turnigy Multistar 30 Amp Multi-rotor Brushless ESC 2-4S.
Left and right rotation propellers are also required. Models Slow Fly Electric Prop 9047 SF CCW (4 pc - Green) And 11x4.7SF respectively.

For the Multistar regulator you will need a wiring cable with a 3.5 mm connection connector. Model (XT60 at 4 X 3.5mm).

You can control the quadcopter using a board MultiWii NanoWii ATmega32U4, which can be controlled remotely via a PC via a USB port.

You also need to provide power to the device - take several batteries Nano-Tech 2200 30C. Why several? So you won't be disappointed when the charge runs out and you can continue to enjoy your flights. If you want to work in open areas, take at least 4 units. The batteries also need a charger, we recommend this brand HobbyKing Variable 6S 50W 5A.

Radio control requires a Turnigy 9x device - it is the best in terms of price and quality. The device will make it possible to control the quadcopter at a distance of up to 900 m. Along with the transmitter, you also buy a receiver; it comes in one set.

Connectors are used to connect the board to the receiver Turnigy 9x.

You will also need additional cords to extend the connection to the engine; take several colors of cable to make it easier to connect later.

Before you make a quadcopter with your own hands at home, you need to think about whether you will buy a frame or make it yourself.

If you don’t want to fool around for a long time, then you can buy a frame. Just keep in mind that if it breaks, you will still have to order parts for it.

A do-it-yourself quadcopter frame is an opportunity to repair a breakdown within half an hour; it does not require additional work when making a quadcopter.

To prevent wires from breaking, use plastic pipes. They will strengthen the wires, making the structure more durable. You can buy fasteners for the wall, and you can also buy rotating parts. The result may be a fairly durable design that will make it possible not just to transport electronics, it will be a self-made quadcopter with a camera.

Watch a video about assembling a frame for a quadcopter from pipes.

Video: DIY budget quadcopter assembly

10/26/2015 12/17/2015 by quadrc

Buying a ready-made quadcopter is the most simple option in order to become the owner of a four-propeller flying model. For those who are not looking for easy ways and want to enjoy the assembly process, the best option will assemble the quadcopter with your own hands.

The quadcopter assembly process consists of 6 steps:

1. Drawing up a plan and budget for the assembly according to the requirements and the desired final result, calculating the characteristics of the equipment using a special calculator, or just sit on our forum and chat with experienced modelers who will help with the choice of parts;
2. Search for optimal stores based on price-quality ratio,
3. Selection and purchase of necessary components;
4. Preparation of components before assembly;
5. Assembling and setting up and testing the quadcopter.
6. Test flights and adjustments if necessary.

If you have minimal experience, the number of steps can be reduced to two.

I don’t think there is any need to talk about the fact that you need to have a minimum of skills to control a copter. If there are none, you need to practice on a simulator or buy an inexpensive quadcopter that is resistant to falls and cannot cause much harm to others in the hands of an inexperienced pilot.

In this article we will consider only point 2.

So, to assemble a quadcopter with our own hands we need:

• Quadcopter frame. The main criteria are size, material of manufacture and functionality.
  The most common are frames of size 450 (450 mm from engine to engine) with long legs; they are used more often for filming using a gimbal. As well as compact frames of size 250, they are most often used to build quadcopters for FPV flights and high-speed racing.
  The material from which the frame is made is preferable to carbon. It is lightweight and durable. But also the most expensive of all available materials. Next comes fiberglass and plastic. Both of these materials are inferior in weight and strength to carbon and are much cheaper.
  The functionality that may be present on the frame is a built-in power board (PCB) with dimensional LED backlighting. Platform for mounting the camera. Folding beams. Recently, frames with folding legs, compartments for speed controllers, and mounts for a flight controller have begun to be produced.
• Brushless motors for quadcopters. Among the main characteristics, in addition to the size of the motors, we can highlight the rotation speed and the weight lifted.
• Engine Speed ​​Controllers (ESC). They differ in current strength (12, 20, 30... amperes), type of firmware (SimonK, bHeli) and the presence or absence of a BEC output with a voltage of 5 volts for power supply necessary equipment. There is also an indicator 2-4S, which means the number of battery cells with which this regulator is compatible.
• Quadcopter flight controller. The optimal one is OpenPilot CC3D. Also worth considering are Naze 32 (Flip32) and APM. In terms of functionality and cost, these controllers differ slightly.
• Control equipment with receiver. Remote controls from FlySky are budget-friendly and fully functional. They provide a range of about 1 km and all the necessary basic set of functions. More expensive and sophisticated - FrSky with telemetry. There are also less common Futaba and RadioLink. A beginner with no options should take FlySky, for example the middle model FlySky i. For growth, it is better to look at something at the level of Taranis from FrSky.
• Li-Po battery for quadcopter. The main indicators of which are the voltage depending on the number of cans, battery cells (1 can = 3.7V, 3 cans = 11.1 volts), discharge current (25C, 30C, 40C, etc.), capacity (for example 2200 mAh) and of course the weight of the battery . The higher the capacity and discharge current, the higher the weight. The task is to choose the optimal ratio of these indicators. The battery is often the heaviest element of the quadcopter. And if its weight is above the permissible limit, the quadcopter simply will not be able to get off the ground.
  To charge this type of battery, you need a professional balancing charger type IMAX B. At first, to save your budget, you can get by with a simpler option, for example IMAXRC B3.
• Propellers for quadcopter (screws). They vary in size (50×30, 60×30, etc.), material (plastic or carbon) and type of fastening (using a collet, nut or bolts). For first flights, as well as flights near obstacles, ordinary plastic propellers are suitable. It is better to buy them with a reserve. For filming and aerobatics you need carbon ones. The size and type of mount depends on the size of the frame and the type of mount on the engines.
• Also required basic set of assembly tools and consumables. It is advisable to have a piece of wire, an XT60 connector for connecting the battery, heat shrink, double-sided tape, nylon ties and Velcro tapes.

This kit is enough to assemble a ready-to-fly copter. Then, if necessary, you can upgrade the quadcopter by installing FPV equipment, GSP navigation, dimensional LED backlighting, a separate BEC for powering the flight controller, a power distribution board, and so on. Depending on your requirements and budget capabilities.

A self-assembled quadcopter with a camera will allow you to take photos and record videos during the flight. To install the camera on the copter you will need a gimbal or damper pad. The best solution To obtain a stable picture, a brushless gimbal is used, which is also the most expensive option for mounting an on-board camera. The damper pad absorbs only part of the vibrations. The picture is acceptable but not perfect. At the same time, without a vibration damping device, the video quality leaves much to be desired. The camera can be used as a budget camera (Mobius, Xiaomi, etc.) or a professional DSLR. It all depends on the size and carrying capacity of the drone.

Assembling a quadcopter with your own hands.

As we can see from this article, assembling a quadcopter with your own hands is quite an interesting and exciting task. Which can bring a lot of pleasant impressions not only to an experienced hobby modeler, but also to a beginner in the field of assembling aircraft models.
Ask your questions in the comments.

Now on the Internet you can find several useful tutorials (all links are at the end of the article) on how to assemble a drone on a 250 frame yourself. But, while putting together my first quad using these articles, I ran into problems that were not covered in any way. Namely: I did not find a complete list of parts and additional equipment that I need, the price of a complete assembly, as well as some practical and theoretical issues. That is why it was decided to make this article as a summary of my personal experience and other people's experiences, to help newbies (like me) build their first drone as efficiently as possible.

Part 1 will be devoted to the selection of parts, equipment, assembly and connection of all components of the copter. The software side will be discussed in part 2.

Here's a quick report on what I got:

It is noticeable in the video that the drone’s legs disappeared during the flight, but more on that later

List of frequently asked questions:

IN: Isn’t it easier to buy a ready-made quad and fly?
ABOUT: Easier only if you don't intend to keep improving your drone and building others. That is, you just want to fly, and not rack your brains and waste valuable time. In any case, a store drone is easier to learn and easier to operate. As an alternative, I can suggest MJX Bugs 3. Review of it. Price from ~120$.

IN: Do I need to solder?
ABOUT: Yes need!

IN: Is it cheaper to assemble a quadric yourself than to buy it in a store?
ABOUT: No! I think this is a misconception. If you are a beginner, and since you are reading this article, most likely you are, then in addition to parts for the quadcopter, you will need a lot of other things. I am attaching the list below.

List to buy:

In order not to bother with the selection of main components, I see great alternative in purchasing ready set. Without wasting time selecting parts, you will get everything you need.

Everything you get is included. On the picture Not the connecting wires from the controller to the transmitter are shown

3) At least 2 additional sets of propellers (4 pieces included: 2 left, 2 right) ~0-100 rub.

Propellers really consumables on your first flights, so it’s better to take it with a reserve. Oddly enough, it’s more expensive to order from China, and the wait is long. Maximum diameter 5 inches. I bought .

Batteries from Aliexpress. Both failed. The second bank on the left failed, the third on the right.

Left: battery for radio remote control with JR connector (black head). Right: battery for powering the quadcopter

I strongly advise against purchasing batteries from China: both batteries I ordered failed, that is, they stopped producing the required voltage (one bank each failed). Yes, perhaps it’s a matter of chance, but there were no such problems with other batteries, and the savings were 150 rubles. not worth the risk.

Turnigy 9X with battery. Fits very tightly, the lid closes

10) Soldering iron of course.

Total cost ~11878 - 13217 rub.

If you're surprised by the list, it's worth noting that most of everything you buy will serve you more than once.

I would also like to note that prices are constantly changing, so I cannot guarantee the minimum price for the links. I'm sure you can find it cheaper. I just shared sources that coincide with mine one to one.

Assembly

Frame assembly

There is a possibility that the kit of parts will come to you without instructions for assembling the frame. That's how it was for me. If this happens, then we collect it from the picture or video. At this stage, you should not tighten all the screws to “combat mode”; you may have to disassemble the frame more than once. At this stage, there is no need to screw the upper part at all; without it, it is more convenient to work with the insides of the copter. Also, don’t forget about the washers that I wrote about above.

Don't forget about the washers. Of course, you don’t have a white plate - these are the very remnants of 3D printed legs

Installation of motors

A very simple operation if you remember the directions of rotation of the motors. Decide where you will have the front. Motors with a black nut rotating clockwise are placed in the front left and rear right places.

Pay attention to the location of the engines

Engine mounting

Soldering

Soldering the distribution board

So, you have already tried it on and decided how everything will be installed. Time to solder. When soldering the board The most important thing is to observe the polarity! It doesn’t matter where you solder the wires, it all depends on how you are going to install the board.

We solder the regulators and power wires. Maintain polarity. (My version)

We solder the regulators and power wires. Maintain polarity. (Another variant)

Solder the regulators to the motors

First of all, remove the standard red heat shrink from the regulators. In order for the motors to rotate in the direction we need, the regulators should be soldered to the motors like this:

Connecting regulators to motors

I think that you have a question: where to put the long wires from the regulators. They can be unsoldered and removed completely, or they can be cut to the desired length. The second method is preferable for beginners, since there is less chance of overheating the regulator when soldering.

Fully sealed standard regulator wires. I don’t recommend doing this, it’s better to just shorten the wires (don’t pay attention to the location of the wires, the picture is taken to show something else. Correct scheme above )

Solder the T-connector. Polarity is important!

We attach the power board and speed controllers

Time to strengthen. Remember that the frame of the copter conducts current, so the board must be insulated from it. I placed it on two layers of double-sided tape, tightened it at one end with a clamp, and then secured it with an elastic band.

We attach the board. Two layers of double-sided tape + clamp + rubber band

I hid the speed controllers in heat shrink, placed them on double-sided tape, tightened them with clamps and, to be sure, tightened them with an elastic band. Looks more than reliable

We attach the regulators. Heat shrink + double-sided tape + clamps + elastic band

We attach the flight controller and receiver

Double-sided tape and rubber bands come into play again. Again, the tighter you secure it, the better.

I have it done like this:

Fastening flight controller(1). Grass left after the crash

Attach the flight controller (2)

We attach the receiver. The end also sits on double-sided tape

Connecting everything with wires

Regulators for the flight controller

We have 3 wires from each of the regulators. You need to do the following: on three of the four regulators you need to pull out the red wire from the connector. You need to connect the wires to the controller in a certain order, this will be discussed in the next part.

On three of the four regulators you need to pull out the red wire from the connector

Receiver to flight controller

But here the order of connecting the wires to each channel is not important. You just need to connect the power wire correctly - the white wire is closer to the side with the sticker.

We connect the receiver to the flight controller. The power cord should be located white closer to the side with the sticker

Screw the top part of the frame and see what happens

I also added a "camera mount".

"Camera mount"

Total:

About falls and what to do while we are waiting for the parcel

Be prepared for some falls at first. And this: broken propellers, legs and camera in my case.

Broken legs

Broken camera. By the way, I advise you to additionally seal the connector with the flash drive with tape, there is a chance of loss if dropped

Here's a video from my very first flight.