The variety of ways to install modern plumbing systems allows you to perform the procedure for installing and connecting a water heating boiler with your own hands. True, this does not apply to all types of boilers, but only to the most commonly used ones - electric.

The most commonly used water heating boiler is an electric, closed, pressure type; we will talk about its selection and connection.

When choosing this type of water boiler, you need to understand the differences between their designs. First of all – size. To determine it you need to calculate your daily consumption hot water. If on the supply pipe cold water If you have a meter, you can determine your average daily consumption by measuring its readings over several days. About half of the total volume should be hot.

Practice shows that to provide for a family of 3-4 people, if a shower is used for bathing, the boiler capacity should be from 50 to 70 liters. If there is a bathtub installed in the house, then its minimum volume should not be less than 100 liters

Moreover, these calculations are relatively fair if your appliances that consume hot water are located quite close to each other. If the bathroom is located far from the kitchen, then you should think about installing a separate 10-liter kitchen boiler or installing an instantaneous water heater.

Second the most important aspect taken into account when choosing a boiler - characteristics tap water. If yours is too hard, then you should choose more expensive models with closed heaters, in which the heating elements are located in sealed glass or ceramic flasks.

The same applies to the material of the heating tanks themselves, or their coating:

• enameled and porcelain glass coatings are less resistant to corrosion and require constant maintenance more high temperature, cheaper than others, but their service life is from 3 to 5 years;
• tanks coated with titanium or welded from of stainless steel– have a service life of 7–10 years, but are more expensive.

To increase the corrosion resistance of boilers, magnesium anodes are installed in them, which require periodic replacement.

Design electric boiler quite simple and somewhat reminiscent of an electric kettle. Actually, the presence of this anode, and the system for drawing heated water from the upper part of the tank, distinguishes them. The operating time of the heaters is regulated by a thermostat depending on set temperature heating water.

There are combined indirect heating boilers, when a coil is also placed in the water heating tank, through which the coolant from the heating system passes, heating the water in the boiler in addition to the heaters.

It is clear that connecting such a boiler is somewhat more complicated than an electric one, but it is quite within the capabilities of a good home handyman.

The next parameter that must be taken into account when choosing a boiler is its power. It is clear that the higher it is, the faster the water will heat up, but the load on the electrical network will also be greater. The optimal power of a 50-liter boiler is 1.5 - 2 kW, respectively: 100-liter 3 - 4 kW. But do not forget to find out what loads your intra-apartment or intra-house network can withstand, so that in pursuit of high power indicators you do not exceed the total permissible loads, otherwise, when the boiler is turned on, the automation will simply turn off the power supply.

The last point when choosing a boiler is its shape. They are:

• round;
• flat:

a) vertical;

b) horizontal.

Can be hung on the wall or installed on the floor. The latter is usually used with large-capacity boilers.

What pipes should be used to connect the boiler?

Most often, the wiring of water systems recently is carried out with polypropylene pipes, welded using a special soldering iron. Working with it is not very difficult, but buying it to install one boiler is unjustified. Moreover, fitting systems with metal-plastic pipes are no less reliable than those mentioned. You can read all about fittings, but to connect the boiler we recommend using compression (collet) fittings.

To switch from one type of pipes already available in your home to the ones offered, you can use the so-called. vampire tee.

Most often it is used to switch from a metal water supply to a plastic one, but it will work just as well on a polypropylene pipe. To install it, the water in the main is shut off and drained through one of the taps. Then a hole Ø 10 – 12 mm is drilled in the pipe and a tee is installed. Further wiring is carried out using pipes of the selected system.

And in addition to metal-plastic with fittings, you can use even simpler connections - flexible hoses in a metal braid.

Only when choosing them should you give preference to manufacturers that produce guaranteed quality products.

Boiler connection diagrams, installation process

They should be divided into 2 subsections and considered separately:

• plumbing;
• electric.

First of all, when installing the boiler, you should make sure that there is shut-off valves on the water supply main in front of it in order to be able to disconnect from common system water supply for Maintenance and possible replacement in the future.

If the boiler, in addition to the cold water supply system, is also connected to a system with hot water, then a shut-off valve is also placed on it so that the water heated in it does not drain into the general network. When the boiler is operating, it remains closed.

Also, after the tap on the cold main, it will be useful to install a reducer that reduces the pressure to 2 - 3 atm, which will be quite enough for normal operation of the system. But it will protect the device itself from excess pressure. Before directly introducing cold water into the boiler, it is worth installing another tap so as not to turn off the entire system for manipulating the device itself.

For pressure boilers closed type It is mandatory to install a safety valve included with the new device. Firstly, it prevents the heated water from flowing back into the cold main, and secondly, it discharges excess water that has expanded after heating. Without it, operation of such boilers can lead to explosive consequences. Such a valve is installed in standard connection diagrams immediately before entering cold water into the boiler, and the drain pipe is led to the nearest entry point into the sewer. If the boiler is installed above the toilet, it is discharged into a free hole in the upper part cistern toilet. There are always 2 of them: for the convenience of connecting the tank, and one of them is free.

To help, here’s a video about mistakes made when connecting a boiler:

A more advanced boiler connection scheme includes installing a tee with a tap above the safety valve. It allows you to urgently drain water from the boiler if necessary or use the boiler as storage capacity for water in case of emergency shutdown.

The main thing is that when draining it, you must turn off the heating, otherwise the heaters may fail. About the most rational improvement of the system when installing such a tee with a tap, see the following video:

Such a tee is placed exclusively on the cold main, because its input occurs at the bottom of the boiler, and the hot intake tube occurs at the top.

Often the piping system is hidden in the wall in grooves or even taken out beyond it - in utility room or pantry, leaving only the safety valve visible.

The connection diagram for a kitchen boiler is no different from that for a regular one, only most often upside down.

The electrical connection is made with wires of a cross-section corresponding to the power of the boiler. For this purpose, there are 2 contacts on the boiler.

The third is connected to the ground of the heater body or the outer casing of the boiler itself. Typically, apartments do not have a grounding system to which it should be connected. In this case, you should follow the following connection diagram.

In it, the RCD will play the role of grounding, but it should be selected without exceeding the nominal value, otherwise it may not cope with the task fully.

When hanging a water boiler on the wall, there is only one rule: reliable fastening, corresponding to the total weight of the boiler and the water in it. Select it in accordance with the material of the wall on which the boiler is mounted, and make sure that you have at least one and a half times the maximum load it can withstand.

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Equally in demand today electric heater and a boiler. How to install such equipment will be described in this article. With the help of such a device you can cope with the problems of turning off hot water. Among other things, such installations can operate on an ongoing basis. In a wide range of modern stores you can find storage or instantaneous electric boilers, the latter of which are in less demand, because they are inferior to storage boilers in terms of volume and profitability. To install such a device, you can use the services of specialists or do the work yourself, but you will need to follow all safety regulations. To do this, the electricity is completely turned off and the hot water pipes are shut off.

Preparation of materials

If you decide to purchase such equipment, you should find out in advance. Of course, doing the work yourself is cheaper. If you refuse the services of professionals, you should prepare a certain set of materials for installation. You will need either a safety valve, two flexible water hoses, and two dowel nails. When purchasing a water hose, you should take into account that you will need two elements, each of which is 2 m long. However, the length will depend on the distance to the connection to the water supply system. When purchasing dowel nails, please note that there should be hooks at their ends. By the way, oh safety valve. It is worth mentioning that it comes complete with an electric boiler. The valve should have a diameter of 10 mm.

Preparing tools

So, you need a boiler. You should learn how to install such equipment before purchasing it. Do you want to do the installation yourself? Good luck! However, it is worth considering that in some cases, when independently conducting work will void the manufacturer's warranty. In addition to materials, you should prepare certain tools, including: screwdrivers, drills with a Pobedit tip for fastening to brick wall, adjustable wrench and hammer drill. The latter can be replaced with an electric drill.

Installation instructions

Many home craftsmen, having learned how much it costs to install a boiler, prefer to do all the work themselves. This is not surprising, considering that such services cost about 5,000 rubles. Do you have the skills and know which side to approach the hammer drill from and how to hold the screwdriver? Then why overpay? But if you do the installation yourself, you will have to prepare properly. An important role here is played by the reviews of those people who are not new to doing this kind of work. If you study all the recommendations, you can come to the following.

The process should begin by choosing a place for mounting in the bathroom or toilet. Most often, such equipment is installed above the toilet, where it will not disturb anyone. It is necessary to check the strength of the wall, as it will have to bear the load from the boiler. If the room has unreinforced plasterboard partitions, then you should refrain from installing the unit on them. If the boiler volume is 50 liters or more, the wall will bear a double load, that is, 100 kg.

Before installing a boiler in an apartment, you should decide on the lowest point of the equipment location, marking it on the wall surface. Next, the master measures the distance from the mounting strip to the bottom point. The first is firmly welded to the equipment body. The resulting distance must be marked on the wall. The next step is to drill two holes. The craftsmen emphasize that you need to remember that the fastening bar does not have such holes; anchors with a hook at the end must cling to its edge.

So, everything is ready to mount the boiler on the wall. How to install it correctly? The question is not an idle one: the structure must be securely fastened, because the fall of such a massive device can cause injury. If the wall is made of concrete or brick, then the craftsmen recommend using a hammer drill with a Pobedit drill bit. For wooden wall a regular wood drill is used, the diameter of which is smaller than that of a plastic dowel. The latter must be installed in the hole and, if necessary, driven in.

The metal anchor is screwed in until it stops turning. As a rule, a depth of 12 cm is sufficient. The boiler should be hung by hooking the anchor hooks onto the bar to secure it to the body of the unit. At this point, the process of hanging the equipment can be considered complete. As you can see, the technology is not very complicated, so any home craftsman can master it. At the next stage, you can connect the boiler to the water supply system; for this, flexible hoses should be used.

Let's connect!

Judging by the reviews, polypropylene pipes can be used instead of flexible hoses, but this will cost more and take more time. At the bottom of the boiler there are two tubes, one of which has a blue plastic ring. Cold water will be supplied through it. The second tube is indicated in red and is intended for hot water outlet.

According to craftsmen, a safety tap should be installed in the place where cold water is supplied. It is usually included in the kit or purchased additionally. The first step is to attach the safety valve. Don’t forget to first wrap plumbing flax or sealing tape around the threads.

The craftsmen advise that at the next stage, screw one end of the flexible hose onto the safety valve. In this case, you need to stop using tape, since the hose nut has a rubber gasket that acts as a sealant. Well, the question of how to install a boiler in an apartment has almost been resolved. The next step is to screw one end of the flexible hose to the pipe from which the hot coolant. In this case, sealing tape is also not required.

Now you can start connecting the free ends of the hoses. The end to which cold water will flow should be connected to a water pipe. A valve or tap must first be installed at this location, which will allow, if necessary, to shut off the liquid supply. This recommendation should not be neglected, since the boiler may fail during operation or require replacement of spare parts. The free end of the other hose should be connected to the pipe that goes to the mixer.

In principle, installing a water boiler yourself is not difficult. You just need to arm yourself with certain knowledge (in addition to tools and materials). And there are many nuances in this matter. In particular, before connecting the unit, it is necessary to remove the tees on the water pipes. In the absence of certain experience, it is better to entrust this work to professionals. Now you can do the electrical part. If we are talking about Thermex brand water heaters, then they have one feature, which is the presence of a cable for connection along with a plug included. Moreover, this element is connected to the boiler. If this is not so, then Consumables will have to be purchased separately.

And further. To ensure that everything goes off without a hitch (read: without accidents), craftsmen strongly recommend observing safety precautions when working with electricity.

What else needs to be taken into account when carrying out work

If you are faced with the question of how to properly install a boiler, then you should know that you do not have to open the lid if everything in the equipment is already connected. It is enough to install a grounded outlet in advance, which should be located close to the equipment. You should turn on the cold water tap to check how tight and secure the connection is. If there are no leaks, the boiler plug can be connected to the outlet. Now you know how to install. If you did everything correctly, the indicator on the case should light up. After this, you can set a certain temperature using the regulator, which is usually located at the bottom.

Conclusion

It is important to remember the main mistakes that are made when connecting the equipment described in the article. In particular, before installing a boiler in the bathroom, experts recommend making sure there is a circulation system. This will minimize energy losses if there is always hot water in the pipes.

It is unlikely to be comfortable living in a house or apartment if there is no hot water. An electric boiler is used to heat water needed for bathing and technical needs. This type of heater, thanks to small sizes, can be installed anywhere: in the bathroom, kitchen, toilet and even under the sink. If implemented correct connection, there will be hot water constantly.

Variety of water heaters

In some cases, a boiler is the most successful solution to the problem of hot water. It is used in houses and apartments where there is no hot water. Many people want to know how to connect the boiler themselves.

Today the range of water heaters is very wide. There are differences in the heating method, capacity, tank shape, installation method, and so on.

General view of the water heater: in the form of a tank filled with water. The heater heats the water to a certain temperature and holds it for a certain time. As necessary water used, the volume of liquid in the boiler automatically increases, and the water is heated again.

In a flow-through device, due to the operation of the heating element, the water is heated as it passes through the heating element. The temperature is regulated by decreasing or increasing the water supply. These devices are installed directly at the point of the water supply system. It is impossible to get hot water in the kitchen and bathroom at the same time from one device, since it is installed only in one room.

Preparatory work for installation

Connecting a boiler to water with your own hands is not very good difficult task, which any user can handle.

Preparatory work includes:

1. Detailed study of the instructions supplied with the boiler.
2. Installing a boiler on the wall.
3. Supply of water supply pipes to the boiler. If the water heater is located in close proximity to water, the task is simplified. In another case, the water supply must be supplied to the boiler using additional metal or plastic pipes.

Take a tape measure, a cutter, a soldering iron for plastic pipes or welding, and a wrench. Purchase related materials - valves, fittings, tees, pipes or flexible hoses, tow and FUM tape.

General water connection diagram

Connecting the boiler to the water supply of any type of pipe is simple. All connection work begins with shutting off the water supply in the apartment.

The cold water supply connection (from top to bottom) is as follows:

1. An “American” installation is required when connecting the water supply at the entrance to the boiler.
2. Installation of a brass tee with a water drain valve. This item is mandatory when connecting a boiler for ease of draining the liquid.
3. Installing a security system is a necessary condition to connect the boiler to the water supply.

The system includes:

• check valve - to prevent the outflow of heated water from the boiler in the event of a pressure drop in cold water or its absence;
• safety valve - when there is pressure inside the boiler.

The security system of a switched on water heater is not always reliable. To protect yourself from trouble, you need to purchase a reliable non-return safety valve. The importance of security cannot be overstated.

The safety valve is important in the system. For example, the thermostat in the boiler has failed. In this case, the heating elements are automatically turned off, and the temperature of the liquid in the tank can reach 100 degrees. The pressure in the tank will quickly increase, which will eventually lead to the tank exploding.

Connecting an electric boiler

It is important to know how to properly connect a water heater with your own hands. The principle of operation is simple, so there should be no problems during installation.

On initial stage connection, you need to do the following:

• select the installation location of the device. It is important that all connecting elements have direct access, as this will make it easier to repair or maintain the equipment;
• prepare the wall on which the electric boiler will be installed. It must be strong to support the weight of the tank;
• prepare a water supply pipe directly at the installation site of the device. Otherwise, you will have to install additional pipes.

Heater installation diagram

The electric boiler has a heating element high power (about 2 kilowatts). To avoid damage to the wiring, it must be connected to the power distribution panel using a cable of suitable size. It is important to use copper power wire.

To install an electric boiler you will need the following tools:

Self-connection of the device

You can install the boiler yourself, following simple rules.

The algorithm for connecting a storage device includes the following work:

• installation of shut-off valves on the inlet and outlet pipelines;
• installation check valve;
• setting the water outlet from the device.

However, the installation process may differ slightly depending on the type of pipe used in the water supply system. Let's look at how to connect a boiler to pipes made of polypropylene, plastic or metal. Storage boiler connected to polypropylene pipes.

For installation of pipe fittings made of polypropylene, you will need the following tools:

• soldering equipment for this type of pipe;
• pipe cutter

Additionally, you can purchase tees for this type of pipes and valves. To connect polypropylene pipes you need an MPH type coupling. It is important to know how to connect a water heater to the water supply in the apartment.

Connection sequence:

Connection to a metal pipe

Connecting a storage electric boiler in an apartment or private house is simple. This is due to the fact that metal pipelines are laid exclusively on the surface of the walls or floor of the room.

So, to connect the storage heater to the water pipe, you must do the following:

1. cut off pipes from the water supply;
2. cut off metal pipes;
3. install sections of pipe tees;
4. Additional segments of metal pipes are inserted into the tee branches, or flexible hoses are directly connected after the valves.

Connecting a boiler to a steel water supply

The existing list of components for metal water pipelines will solve the problem of connecting a boiler to a water supply system made of steel pipes without welding. This applies to the “vampire” tee, which is installed directly on the surface steel pipe. Using such devices, you can connect not only a heating boiler to a metal water pipe without welding, but also washing machine, dishwasher and other devices.

The “vampire” tee is a metal clamp, on the side of which there is an inlet channel with a pre-cut thread. The tee is fixed to the outer surface of the pipe, cleared of paint and dirt, through a rubber lining and clamped with fastening screws.

After installing the tee, a drill bit is drilled onto the metal protective sleeve through the pipe in the side surface of the pipe. Naturally, all work is carried out in closed water supply. After this, the thread is screwed into the ball valve, which is a flexible hose at the inlet to the boiler or other equipment.

Stop Valve Installation

When installing storage heater You need to know some features of installing shut-off valves. Installation work are carried out in the following sequence:

But to prevent damage to the water folding device, it is better to mount this device directly on a branch from the water supply main.

Connecting an instantaneous heater

An instantaneous electric water heater is mounted directly into a branch of the pipeline provided for hot water supply. You need to know how to properly connect the boiler to the water supply. It is necessary to follow the instructions exactly and study the boiler diagram before doing this.

The connection goes like this:

1. Shutting off the water supply.
2. A gap is created in the pipeline.
3. Valves are installed at the ends of the breaks.
4. The instantaneous heater can then be dismantled for repairs without shutting off the water supply.
5. The inlet and outlet of the feed heater are connected to flexible underwater hoses to the shut-off valves.

Please note that when dismantling the device, first close the shut-off valve in the inlet pipe, and then at the outlet. Also when using flow heater First the water turns on and then the heater turns on. When there is no longer a need for hot water, the power is first turned off.

Before working with pipes, you can first practice on their scraps. This way you can avoid embarrassing mistakes.

Test procedure

The correct connection to the water heater water supply is completed; you need to fill it and check the tightness of the connections. Test procedure:

1. Open the hot water tap to remove air from the tank.
2. Open the tap on the cold branch.
3. When working with water supply, it is necessary to carefully examine all joints for leaks. If leaks are found, repair them before filling the device with water.

IN modern apartment The water heater has become an indispensable part of utilities. He is especially remembered good word when the hot water is turned off. However, many are scared by the question of connecting a water heater with their own hands. In fact, connecting a storage water heater in an apartment is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Let's see how to connect a storage water heater with your own hands in practice. At the same time, we will connect it in such a way that it can serve several water points. But first, let's look at the standard water heater connection diagram and the functional features of its components.

Water heater connection diagram

The standard connection diagram for a storage water heater is shown in the figure below. The configuration of the connection diagram is determined both by the operating characteristics of the water heater itself and by the need to temporarily turn it off and drain the water.

Fig.1.

You should pay attention to following components the diagrams are tap No. 1, 2, 3 and a check valve.

Check valve prevents hot water from draining through the pipe cold water. The principle of operation of a storage water heater is that under the pressure of cold water, hot water is squeezed out of the tank. Structurally, this is organized in such a way that cold water is supplied from the bottom of the tank, and hot water is taken from the top. Without a check valve, hot water will flow into the cold water supply.

It would seem that this is impossible, but this is only at first glance. This situation occurs quite often in the absence of a check valve and at the same time the cold and hot water supply is turned off. In this case, when you open a hot water tap, air leaks in and water from the tank goes into the cold water supply system.

Tap No. 1 and Tap No. 2 always work in pairs, they are necessary to isolate the storage water heater from the water supply system. These valves are in the open position when the water heater is connected, and closed when it is turned off. Thanks to these taps, you can turn off the storage water heater not only when the hot water supply is restored, but also to remove it, for example, for repairs.

Crane No. 3 necessary to turn off the hot water supply. It is just as important as the rest of the circuit components. If you do not turn off this tap while using the storage water heater, your neighbors can use your hot water. This happens because the hot water from the water heater is connected to the central hot water supply system, and all the water will go into the common system.

Installation of a storage water heater

The installation of a water heater begins with determining the location where it will be located. At this stage, several requirements must be met.

• It is advisable to install a storage water heater near hot and cold water risers, this will make it easier to turn it on and off.
• The water heater should be installed at such a height that it is convenient to set the required temperature, i.e. The heater automation unit must be within reach.
• Next to the storage water heater there should be electric outlet. In this case, the electrical outlet must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from the bathtub or washbasin.
• A storage water heater is electrical appliance high power and potentially dangerous. Therefore, it is advisable to provide a separate electrical line for the storage water heater. To connect water heaters with a power of up to 3 kW to the electrical network, a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm is used. In addition, an RCD (protection device against short circuit), if this device has not been installed previously or the water heater does not have its own RCD.
• To connect a storage water heater, it is necessary to provide two outlets for cold and hot water in the apartment’s water supply system.

Fig.2.

If all of the above conditions are met, then to connect the storage water heater you need to do the following work.

• Purchase 2 hoses and 2 ball valves.
• Mount the water heater on the wall using the fasteners that usually come with the water heater.
• Install a check valve on the cold water supply pipe to the water heater.
• Install ball valves on the bends.
• Using hoses, connect the water heater to the outlets of the water supply system.

In practice, when installing a storage water heater, two difficulties are often encountered: lack of space for installation and the lack of outlets for connecting the water heater in the apartment’s water supply system. These two issues can be resolved quite simply.

A storage water heater, in principle, can be installed anywhere. Often heaters with a volume of up to 50 liters can be easily mounted under the sink. Of course, servicing it will not be very convenient, but this solves the problem of lack of space.

Fig.3.

The water heater can be connected not only to stationary outlets, but also to the installation sites of mixers. To do this, it is necessary to install tees and run branches from them to the water heater. Such bends can be made from metal-plastic pipes. You can do it even simpler, use long hoses.

Turning on/off the storage water heater

The initial parameters are valve No. 1 and No. 2 in the closed position, valve No. 3 in the open position. To turn on the water heater, it is necessary to move valve No. 1 and No. 2 to the open position, and valve No. 3 to the closed position. To turn off the water heater, do the opposite.

How to drain water from a water heater

In order to drain water from the water heater, you must perform the following steps.

• Close tap No. 1 and No. 2.
• Remove the check valve and put a hose on the heater inlet for easy draining.
• Disconnect the pipe or hose from the hot water connection on the water heater.
• After that, the water will drain under the influence of gravity through a hose connected to the cold water pipe on the water heater.

PHOTO of water heater connection

Now a few photos of how the water heater is actually connected. It should be said that connecting a storage water heater should begin with determining its installation location. IN in this example the water heater is installed above the bathtub, and the entire pipeline is mounted under the bathtub and in a box covering the sewer pipes. This was done because the water heater was connected after laying the tiles. It turned out not very aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, the connection of the water heater must be planned at the stage of laying water pipes.

Fig.4.

The photo shows the supply of hot and cold water to the storage water heater and the installed check valve. I want to draw your attention. That winding should be done only together with the connections of the check valve and the cold water pipe. With this method of connecting with hoses, there is no need to rewind. IN in this case This was a necessary measure, because The hoses turned out to be of poor quality. The pressure release handle is wrapped with electrical tape because... cracked over time.

Fig.5.

The photo shows taps No. 1 and No. 2; they are led directly to the water heater for ease of turning on and off.

Fig.6.

Here is the entire system assembled.

Fig.7.

Fig.8.

Shown here is a plumbing connection. The middle pipe is the hot water supply. It is covered in the photo. The top pipe is the water supply from the water heater to the system. The far right one goes from the water heater, the middle one goes to the faucet in the bathroom and the left one goes to the rest of the system.

Fig.9.

For a comfortable stay in the house, when you want to constantly use hot water, and not depend on the repair schedule of monopolists who can turn off this water for an unknown number of days, many people think about purchasing a boiler.

Most often, the choice falls towards a storage water heater. They are different companies Ariston, Drazice, Baxi, etc., shapes and designs - flat, cylindrical or elongated.

The installation of cold and hot water pipes may differ, but they are all connected to the 220V network in the same way.

Many people mistakenly believe that in order to connect the boiler, you just need to plug the plug into the socket and not worry about anything else. However, they forget that it is in the boiler that, in case of insulation failure, direct contact of electricity with a person can occur through water.

What to look for Special attention when connecting the boiler:

• selection of the cross-section of the supply cable (depending on the power of the boiler)

• selection of a circuit breaker for power supply to the boiler

• socket selection

Selecting a cable and machine

When renovating new apartments, the boiler is usually wired separately directly from the panel. If you want to connect the boiler to the old common wiring, which already has several sockets connected, be sure to make sure that it can withstand the power of the boiler.

In most cases, with a power of up to 3.5 kW, wiring must be done with a 3-core copper cable VVGnG-Ls, with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm2.

The three-core cable is required to ensure a permanent connection to ground.

Choose a two-pole boiler connection machine. The rated current of the machine is 16A (sufficient for boiler power up to 3.5 kW).

Suitable for loads up to 2 kW circuit breaker with a rated current of 10A.

Connection from an outlet or directly

If the boiler is connected from an outlet, then the outlet must have a degree of protection IP44. These are sockets for rooms with high humidity levels.

Remember that the socket in the bathroom can only be placed in certain places. And there are areas where doing this is strictly prohibited. You can read more about this in the article "".

Although many are opposed to connecting electric heaters through a socket, this is the only way to ensure a visible break in the conductors (phase and neutral) when disconnected, as required by safety regulations.

And for those water heaters that initially come with plugs, if you cut them off, you can sometimes void the warranty. Therefore, read the instructions.

If it says that this boiler can be connected in two ways

• directly

• and via the standard power cord

then you will not lose the guarantee here.

In addition, if you need to dismantle the device from the wall, if there is a plug, you will not need to call an electrician to disconnect it from the power supply. Pull out the plug, take it off, rearrange it, do whatever you want.

Powerful boilers over 3.5 kW should only be connected directly through a circuit breaker; a socket connection is not allowed here.

The cable must be routed so that there are no intersections with water pipes and places of future heater mounting.

RCD installation

An RCD must be installed in the boiler supply line. Select its current one order of magnitude higher than the current of the machine.

Leakage current for RCD – 10mA or 30mA.

Why 10mA is better and not more can be understood from this sign of the effect of current on the human body:

A significant disadvantage here is that at 10mA the protection may trigger falsely. Especially if your water heater has been hanging for more than a year and such condensation and moisture often form in the places where the terminals are connected.

How can I check if this is a false positive or if the heating element itself is faulty? To do this, use a multimeter.

Turn off the power supply or pull out the plug from the socket and disconnect the standard grounding from the titanium body.

Then remove the terminal clamps from the heating element itself, and using probes, measure the resistance between the boiler body and the heating element.

If the heating element is working properly, the readings on the multimeter screen should tend to infinity, that is, they should be something like this:

In case of breakdown and damage to the heater, they will either be zero, but most often they can be several hundred or even kiloohms. In the photo below this is exactly the option ~ 500 kOhm.

Very often, in many of the latest boiler models, an RCD with a leakage current of 15 mA is already built into the cable for connecting to the outlet. In this case, it may not be necessary to install an additional leakage current protection device in the panel.

However, do not forget that such a built-in RCD will protect against leakage only if there is damage in the heater itself, but will not protect you in any way if there is a fault directly in the outlet or the supply wiring to it.

How to find these and other similar faults and what this can lead to can be found in the article “”

What to do if you are not an expert in electricity and you yourself cannot or do not want to go into the electrical panel in order to install all the required protection devices there. But you still need to protect yourself.

The simplest option is to purchase an RCD socket.

Plug it into the existing outlet in the bathroom, and through it you plug the plug from the boiler cord.

Will the residual current device on the boiler trip if you do not have a ground connection? Will. These two systems, when working together, are designed to complement each other.

In the event of a current leak on a boiler without grounding, the protection device will only work when you directly touch the tank or the water from it (with the heating elements turned on).

And if there is a grounding conductor, then the RCD will work immediately after voltage is applied to the titanium, without waiting for your touch. That's the whole difference.

Connection diagrams

Boiler connection diagram via socket:

Electrical diagram of the water heater:

Schematic diagram without socket directly from the panel:

Errors during connection and operation

• installing an outlet directly under the boiler itself

This is strictly forbidden. Sockets should be placed away from the heating device and placed above the faucets. Don't forget about the safety valve and possible leaks.

The valve will operate as a last stage of protection if the thermostat fails. By the way, the thermostat needs to be checked first when the light on the panel does not light up and the heating elements do not heat up. Look at the position of the button on the element, it can be “knocked out”.

• common mistake when connecting the device directly to an outlet, there is a desire to turn off the device by pulling out the plug at a time when the water has not yet warmed up and the heater is still working

If its power reaches 3.5 kW, then with such a break in the contacts, sparking may occur, with the formation of an arc. And since the bathroom is a room with high humidity, the consequences may not be predictable.

Therefore, always, before pulling out the plug, turn off the load using standard control devices on the boiler itself.

• You cannot plug in an empty boiler without water.

The heating element installed inside requires water cooling. Without it, it will simply burn out and fail. Therefore, before each switching on, check the presence of water in the boiler.

Plus, the magnesium anode, which also protects against rust formation, only works when the tank is full.

• connecting the water heater only through an RCD, or only through an automatic device

These two protection devices must duplicate each other. The RCD protects against leakage current, and a simple circuit breaker protects against overload and short circuits.

If your budget allows, then instead of these two protective elements you can install one differential automatic device; it will replace both devices.