First of all, we choose a place for installation. At this stage we will dwell separately if you are a resident of a private house. You need to ensure the supply of hot water to several points at once: in the bathroom, in the kitchen, in the toilet, etc. Your task is to determine the most important unit - the one that is used most often, and place the boiler at the minimum distance from it.

Why do this? The greater the distance from the water heater to the tap, the longer you will have to wait for the influx of hot water, and the more extra liters of cold water will go to waste. Believe me, over time this will have a significant impact on utility bills.

In average apartments, as a rule, all nodes are located close to each other, and such a problem does not arise.

So, our water heater is already hanging, let’s begin connecting the boiler to the water supply.

Let's consider the simplest and most popular option - a diagram of an open connection of a boiler to a water supply with the ability to easily drain water from it.

• First of all, we shut off all water supply in the house (this is mandatory stage for any of the types of work described below).
• We take a brass tee and screw it by hand quite tightly onto the terminal for cold water. On water heaters, the cold pipe is always on the right, and the hot pipe is on the left. Often the thread on the pipe is “under-cut”, so it’s good if you have a die in your arsenal of tools - a thread-cutting tool. The process of applying external threads takes only a couple of minutes, but significantly improves the strength and tightness of the connection. For brass fittings, three and a half turns are enough.

• We wrap the tow on the renewed thread, not in a too thick layer, but so that there are no gaps. Watch carefully so that the tow does not fall into the hole itself. We spread sealing paste on top and wind our tee, observing the number of turns that were before winding, minus half a turn. Using a wrench, we move the tee to a position in which it will be convenient to place a faucet on it and connect a hose to drain the water.
• Now, on the transverse outlet of the tee, we similarly attach the tap itself with a pipe for attaching the hose.
• The sequence of relief and non-return safety valves. In the instructions on how to connect a boiler to a water supply, this is perhaps the most important point. The standard valve that comes with the boiler is not very reliable and often does not cope with its task, so experts recommend purchasing this protective device separately, taking into account the capabilities and needs of the water heater. We wind the tow, coat it with paste and screw on the valve, as usual, half a turn less. There is such a thing as a “safety group” for a storage water heater. It is assembled as follows: a 6 bar FAR safety valve is attached to the side hole of the tee, a compression fitting is screwed onto it for metal-plastic pipe, which drains water into the sewer at high pressure. There is a check valve from below to the tee. Read below about the functions of all these parts. It is worth noting that the safety valve always has a “flag” for emergency draining of water from the boiler. Why did we add an extra brass tee? Because, according to the observations of professionals, after a year or two many of these “flags” fail, and the drain valve is a simple and reliable design. Therefore, it is better not to neglect this moment, so as not to do the work twice. In addition, such a faucet is an emergency solution when the water is turned off.
• Next, to connect to the water supply, you can go in two ways: use polypropylene pipes or compression hoses (if there are already leads). The only mandatory point is that the boiler must be “cut off” from the water supply network. In our example we use plastic pipes and the so-called "American". This part is included in the water heater safety group and is a union nut for connecting the joints of water supply pipes. Its design and metal composition have a number of advantages, so that connections can be made even without taking into account sealing materials. In addition, the nut makes it possible to dismantle the line without rotating the pipe, which makes its use very convenient. We disassemble the part, and screw one part of the “American” into the relief valve, and the second into the cold water tap. And now, using a nut, we very easily twist both structures together.

• We continue the plumbing chain and screw in the soldered adapter coupling for eco-plastic pipes. The design for the cold water supply is ready.
• We are working on the hot water outlet. We take the “American” again, divide it and screw one part of it onto the pipe.
• We assemble the rest of the structure in our hands: we screw the second part of the “American” onto the hot water tap, and attach the coupling for the pipe from below.
• We connect the union nut together.
• We connect to the sewer system. In the place where the connector goes and the hose is led out, say, to a toilet tank or washbasin, we disconnect the structure and put a tee with a coupling on the outlet. Don't forget to constantly rewind the flax and use insulating paste.
• We reconnect the washbasin or another hose to the free hole of the tee, and connect the coupling using the same hose or plastic pipe with the coupling that leads to the boiler.
• Repeat steps No. 11 and 12 to remove hot water.
• At this stage, the connection of the boiler is completed, then it’s up to the electrician.

We start by first turning off the regular hot water tap in the apartment. Opening hot water on the mixer and start the water heater. Slowly open the cold water tap on the boiler, followed by the hot one. You will see how air begins to come out of the mixer, followed by rust, so in total you should “drive” the water for at least 4-5 minutes until the pressure returns to normal.

After this, we turn on the water heater switch and wait a couple of hours until the temperature indicator rises.

What if you need to cut a tee into the middle of a pipe?

It is not always possible to get to the connections, much less disassemble them, if they are old, covered with paint and rust. Sometimes it makes more sense to make a new conclusion.

If you have polypropylene pipes in your house, you will need to arm yourself with a special soldering iron and pipe cutter, and also purchase tees and locking elements specifically for this type of pipe. A soldering iron is quite an expensive item, and you can rent it from a hardware store that provides such services.

• Using a marker, mark the desired part of the pipe.
• Carefully make an even cut in the designated area.
• Now you need to solder a tee into it. The process is very simple, but requires accuracy. We heat the soldering iron to a temperature of at least 250°C and place a tee on one side and a pipe on the other side. We wait literally 5 seconds for them to become elastic, then remove them and immediately connect them.
• When the connection has cooled, it is ready for further work.

If your pipes are made of metal-plastic, then there is no need to solder here: all fittings for metal-plastic pipes are made of metal. To insert additional bends, press fittings are used, which are driven like dowels into concrete and securely held in the pipe. With their help, wiring is easy and quick, and the warranty is about 50 years.

If you need to cut bends into steel pipes, there is a solution that will save you from welding work. It is called a “vampire” tee. It is installed directly on the surface of the pipe, cleared of paint and dirt, in any selected location. “Vampire” is a clamp that is secured with four bolts and has a threaded pipe. After installation, all you need is to drill a hole in the pipe through this very pipe. After this, we screw in the shut-off valve, and connect a hose or pipe from our equipment to it.

In this way you can easily connect to steel pipeline also a washing machine and dishwasher.

How to extend and improve the operation of a water heater?

There are several additional components that affect.

• Filter rough cleaning

FGO is installed in the pipeline system and prevents large foreign particles from entering it. It is made of high-strength brass, and the mesh built into the body is made of of stainless steel. The filter is easily washed as the mesh becomes dirty.

• Relief valve - what is it for?

This is a special device that serves to protect the heater tank from rupture in case of very high temperature water or pressure. The standard value is 0.6 MPa and if the liquid in the tank exceeds this nominal value, the valve opening releases its excess.

When, for example, renovation work, the pressure in the pipes can rise sharply. And it will always find a way out through weak points in the water supply: be it plastic connections, tees or the seams of the water heater tank. And this can happen at any time, including when you are not at home.

Reason high blood pressure In the boiler, there may also be the presence of steam in it, due to excess temperature and overheating of the water, or, more simply, its boiling. Therefore, it is very important to keep the relief valve open at all times to avoid serious trouble.

• Check valve

Its function is to let water in, but not let it out back. Probably everyone is familiar with a planned or emergency shutdown of cold water and remember that this can happen at any time while you are sleeping or away. If the safety valve is not installed, when the pressure in the pipes drops, water leaves your boiler, and the tubular electric heater is in working condition at this time. If the protective shutdown device does not work, the heating element simply burns out.

• Main magnetic filter

The role of the filter is difficult to underestimate. It protects plumbing fixtures and heating elements from contamination by suspended matter, rust, etc.

On washing machines For example, polyphosphate filters are installed, which soften water and extend the life of equipment.

The magnetic filter is safe for humans and is installed both before and after the safety valve.

What is the principle of its operation? Water, passing through it, changes its structure, and those hardness salts, which subsequently become scale, lose their ability to settle and attach to the heating elements.

• Water meter

It significantly saves money, especially after abandoning hot water supply and when using an electric water heater in constant mode.

• Hydraulic accumulator

Compensates for the expansion of water when heated and minimizes the release of liquid from the blast valve. For a 100-liter boiler, a five-liter hydraulic accumulator will be sufficient. It is installed on the approach to the water heater and performs the function water tower in case of lack of proper pressure in the system.

If you need to install a boiler purchased in a store yourself, then to carry out installation work You should prepare materials, and also carefully study the instructions for this electrical device.

Self-installation of an electric boiler does not present any difficulties, but only for those people who know how to handle tools and have experience in electrical installation work on a 220 V network.

Getting ready to connect

The best option for installing a boiler is in the bathroom. If, due to limited free space, it is not possible to install a boiler in this place, then you should choose a place in the kitchen or in utility room. When choosing an installation location, you should take care of the possibility of supplying a 220 V electrical network and cold water supply.

The boiler is installed at a considerable distance from the floor. In most models, communications are connected from below, so the device should be placed at a height of at least 50 cm. If the boiler is connected in the bathroom, then it should be placed at a distance of at least 1 meter from the bathtub and sink.

This eliminates the possibility of water getting on the surface of the device and reduces the possibility of damage. electric shock in case of device malfunction.

It is worth considering that a boiler filled with water has a significant mass and must be securely fastened. Water heaters are usually installed on the wall. For correct location For mounting holes, you can use a very simple marking method. You need to prepare a sheet of cardboard and a marker.

Measurements are carried out in the following order:

For correct installation boiler, you will need to install a separate outlet and supply cold water to the device.

To do this you will need to prepare the following materials and tools:

1. Hammer or impact drill.
2. Pliers.
3. Hammer.
4. Socket.
5. Anchor bolts.
6. An electric cable with a core diameter of at least 3 mm.
7. Spanners.
8. Screwdriver.
9. Construction gypsum.
10. Automatic switch 20 A.
11. Chisel.

Connection rules

The device must be installed in such a way that it can be accessed from all sides for carrying out technical work

First of all, you need to take care of electrical safety of use. of this device: connect the grounding wire to the body of the electric water heater.

To install the water heater, you must use only the factory fasteners that are included with the electrical device.

The device must be installed in such a way that it can be accessed from all sides for technical work. The distance from the side wall to the boiler is set to at least 200 mm.

If the water heater receives water from an individual source, such as a well or well, then a coarse water filter must be installed in the water intake system.

The boiler is installed only on a hard vertical surface; it is prohibited to install the device on various partitions made of wood and plasterboard.

It is mandatory to install shut-off elements in the form of ball valves to the cold water supply line and the heated liquid outlet line. This arrangement of taps greatly simplifies repair work that can be carried out during operation of the water heater.

When connecting the boiler to the water supply, a non-return valve must be installed. This device will prevent the formation of excess liquid pressure in the water heater, even in the event of a failure of the automatic relay that controls the activation of water heating at a given temperature.

An elastic tube must be connected to the return valve, which is used to relieve excess pressure into the sewer.

In order to eliminate the possibility of leaks during operation of the device, it is necessary to use rubber or silicone gaskets.

When installing a water heater in a bathroom, its installation should be no closer than 1 meter from the bathtub or sink.

The socket should be placed in the bathroom in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of water getting into it.

Network connection

After the boiler is correctly installed and connected to the water supply system, it must be connected to the electrical network. If the device was installed near electrical outlet, just insert the plug into the socket and press the power button of the device.

You should first check for the presence of grounding on the contacts of the socket. If connected to the mains, the presence of a properly functioning ground in this outlet can be checked using an insulated copper wire. One end of the wire is connected to the phase of the electrical outlet, and the other end is connected to the side grounding. If there is a working ground line, the electricity should automatically turn off.

If there is no outlet in the immediate vicinity, then one should be installed. To do this, using a hammer drill and a special crown-shaped attachment for socket boxes, a recess is made in the wall. The size of the recess should be equal to the depth of the socket installed in the bathroom wall.

If, after working with a hammer drill, a layer of material remains in the inner part of the circle, it should be removed using a chisel and hammer.

From the mounting hole of the socket to the nearest one, it is necessary to make a groove 30 - 40 mm deep into which the electrical cable will be installed. It is prohibited to install distribution boxes in the bathroom.

The best option would be to route a separate circuit from the electrical panel. If there is grounding of the electrical panel body, the grounding conductor should be secured to its body.

1. The socket is installed in the following sequence: The socket box should not extend beyond the wall.
2. A three-core copper cable is inserted through the side hole of the socket box. The cable is secured to special plastic brackets placed in a groove along the entire length of the cable.
3. The socket that will be used in the bathroom must have a protection class of at least IP44. It must be equipped with a cover that reliably protects the contacts from water.
4. The decorative cover is removed from the socket, then the phase conductor and “0” electrical wiring are connected to the terminals.
5. The grounding conductor must be connected to the side terminal of the socket. After this, the inner part of the socket is installed in the socket box.
6. To do this, you need to turn the fastening bolts clockwise evenly on both sides. Then the outer plastic part is installed
7. , it is secured with a screw that is screwed into the middle of the socket. The wire is led through a groove and connected to a distribution box or electrical panel.

The groove is sealed with prepared gypsum mortar or special putty.

We care about protection
In order to make the operation of the boiler as safe as possible, it is necessary to install an RCD. This device will turn off the power supply at the moment when a phase current leak occurs along the main connection line of the boiler.

The RCD is connected in the following sequence: It is necessary to install the device as close as possible to the electric meter, then install , which will protect the circuit and turn off the voltage if.

short circuit Then the grounding, phase wire and “0” are connected to the RCD. At the output, the device is connected to wires coming from the electric meter. Thus it turns out reliable protection

not only against fire in the event of a short circuit, but also protection against electric shock.

Checking work It is strictly forbidden to connect the water heater to the network without water. After the device is installed and the water pipes are connected, the boiler must be completely filled with liquid. To make sure that the heater is completely filled, you need to open the tap with hot water

and wait until water flows from the tap with even pressure.

All places where pipes are connected to the boiler must be checked for possible leaks; if such places are found, then all threaded connections must be additionally tightened with a wrench. Then the plug is inserted into the socket and set heating water on the control panel. After the water temperature reaches maximum values, it is necessary to inspect the pipe connections again.
If the water supply connection points are absolutely sealed, then the boiler can be used for its intended purpose.

1. Don't skimp on cables when connecting a boiler, only high-quality copper wire can fully cope with the high load and constant connection of a powerful device to the network.
2. To increase the safety of using the boiler, it is imperative to install an RCD together with circuit breakers.
3. If you have no experience handling tools and electric current, then you need to contact professionals who will connect the boiler to electricity in accordance with all the rules.

A water heater, also known as a boiler, or an autonomous heating device, in some cases is the most successful solution to the problem of hot water supply. It is also used in those houses and apartments where there is no hot water at all, where there is some, but intermittently, but most often those who want to save money think about how to connect the boiler to the water supply.

Let's give calculations using Moscow as an example (knowing about tariffs in your region, you can also calculate the economic benefits). On average, a family of 4 uses 8 cubic meters of hot water per month. The tariff for hot water in 2016 is 108.41 rubles. (population). It turns out that you will have to pay 867.28 rubles per month for hot water supply.

Now regarding the water heater. For a family of 4 people we take a 100-liter 2 kW storage boiler. Such a device heats water to the required temperature in an average of 2.5-3 hours, resulting in a total of 6 kW per day, 180 kW per day. With a tariff of 3.52 rubles. the total amount of the payment is 633.6 rubles. As you can see, 25% cheaper.

If we take into account the most economical one - a 5 kW instantaneous water heater, the tariff will be 75% cheaper than hot water supply. Its average productivity is 2 l/min. It will take 25 minutes (0.42 hours) to heat 50 liters. 0.42 x 5 = 2.1 kW per day. This produces 63 kW per month. In monetary terms, 222 rubles.

Since the economic benefits, as they say, are obvious, it’s time to tell you how to properly connect the boiler to the central water supply.

Varieties

Today the range of water heaters is very extensive. The differences lie in the heating method, power, tank shape, installation method, etc.

Water heating method:

• electric;
• gas;
• combined (gas/electricity);
• indirect heating of water through a boiler.

Water supply method:

• pressure;
• non-pressure.

Installation method:

• floor option;
• horizontal and vertical hanging.

External tank shape:

• round (cylinder);
• oval (rectangle with rounded corners).

Device

• outer casing;
• internal tank;
• thermal insulation protection made of polyurethane;
• tubular electric heater (TEH);
• thermometer;
• thermostat.

This type of water heater is called storage due to the presence of a tank filled with water. The heating element heats the water to a certain temperature, and the thermal insulation between the inner and outer casings maintains the temperature. As needed, water is consumed, automatically replenished and heated again.

Flow unit design

In a flow-through boiler, due to the operation of a more powerful heating element, the water passing through it warms up instantly. The temperature is adjusted by decreasing or increasing the flow.

Such devices are mounted directly at a point in the water supply system, but only at one point - it is impossible to get it from one instantaneous boiler hot water in both the kitchen and bathroom at the same time.

The easiest to connect and operate is an electric boiler, since it does not require approval, special permission or the purchase of additional tools.

Flow-through HV is a very powerful household appliance, the connection of which requires 30 A wiring and mandatory grounding. In order to limit line damage to instantaneous water heaters with a heating element power of more than 5 kW, the kit does not include a power cord and a standard plug.

The storage HP has a standard power of 2 kW, where the supply current is 10 A. Ordinary “household” wiring is quite enough for the operation of this unit.

Considering that the PV does not provide the hottest possible water, precisely due to instant heating, many opt for storage water. Moreover, almost everyone can connect it.

How to connect correctly

Preparatory actions

1. Preparing the site based on “step-by-step” accessibility to connecting elements - water supply pipes and sockets.
2. The wall on which the wall-hung boiler will be mounted must be strong - the total weight of the device of 100 liters will be 130-150 kg, depending on the internal structure.

Required tools and materials:

• set of adjustable wrenches;
• roulette;
• mounting level:
• hammer drill (for load-bearing wall) or drill;
• pliers;
• connecting tees-fittings;
• shut-off valves (on inlet pipes);
• sealant (tow, paste, tape, etc.).

Installation process

Boiler canopy on the wall. Depending on the volume of the tank, select the appropriate number of brackets (they are usually included in the kit) and dowels. For a standard HV with a volume of 100 liters, 2 complete brackets are sufficient. If the volume is less, 2 is also required, if more, 4/6.

On back side look at how many holes there are on the boiler. Respectively. so many brackets will need to be purchased if they are not included in the kit.

Measure the distance between the holes and make marks on the wall where you will make the holes (standard 180 mm). If the wall on which the device will be hung is load-bearing or panel house, then you will need a hammer drill. In other cases, an electric drill will do the job.

Be sure to check straightness using a mounting level. The device must be installed absolutely level without distortion.

We drilled holes, inserted dowels and screwed the brackets with screws, after which we hung the boiler on hooks.

How to properly connect the boiler to the water supply

To begin with, it should be noted that the water coming from the tap is not highly pure. In order to clean the heating element less often, it is recommended to embed a small filter on the inlet pipe.

Now we connect the HV to the pipe with cold water, to do this, we screw a safety valve onto the pipe of the device itself with a blue ring and insulate it with FUM tape. After this, we connect the pipe with the red ring to the outlet pipe through which hot water will flow to the mixer. We also insulate with FUM tape.

For reference. FUM tape - insulating material on a fluoroplastic base, which has high functional properties. The tape does not deform when temperature changes, does not rot, does not wear out, does not tear, is labile to chemical elements, non-toxic.

In order for the thread to “seat” as tightly as possible, it is necessary to wind the tape strictly clockwise.

Connection to pipes

Polypropylene pipes

What tools will you need:

• pipe cutter

• tees and couplings (МРН)

• stopcock

How to connect correctly:

1. Shut off the hot and cold water supply pipes on the riser.
2. Make a cut at the marked place on the pipe and solder the tees on both pipes.
3. Insert additional pipes into the tees (for extension).
4. Mount couplings on the bends and connect shut-off valves to them.
5. Depending on the distance of the boiler, connect shut-off valves to each of the pipes or lay an additional flexible hose and connect it to them.

In the photo you see what the connected device should look like

If the pipes are built into the wall, the connection will be somewhat more complicated.

1. Break the coating directly above each pipe.
2. You cut the pipe at the marked place and insert a repair coupling, more often called an American coupling.
3. Weld the coupling to the tee from the polypropylene side, and to the cut on the pipe - with the threaded end.
4. Remove the coupling and connect the pipes as indicated earlier.

Metal-plastic pipes

All fastenings on similar pipes carried out using fittings.

Procedure.

1. Shut off the water at the riser.
2. Use a pipe cutter to cut the pipes at the marked location.
3. Insert the tee, connect pieces of metal-plastic pipe or flexible hose to the outlet and connect them with fittings to the branch pipes.

Steel pipes

For reference. This is a clamp with a side threaded branch that allows you to make a hole in a pipe without special equipment.

In order to install it, you need to clean the pipe from paint and spray, place a rubber seal and screw on the clamp. This results in a completely sealed connection. Next, drill a hole through the branch (the sleeve is included) and connect the stop valve, and to it a flexible hose for connecting to the water heater pipe.

How to connect a flow unit

The PV is installed exclusively on the hot water supply pipe.

Procedure

1. Shut off the water at the riser
2. Cut the pipe where the connection will be and weld shut-off valves on both sides.
3. Connect the outlet and inlet pipes with shut-off valves using flexible hoses.
4. Connect to electricity.

When using such a device at home, first turn on the water, then turn on the boiler. At the end - first the boiler, then the water.

To understand exactly how to perform actions correctly and in what order, watch the training video

Video - how to connect a boiler to a water supply

Nothing will stop you from installing electric water heater cumulative type with your own hands, if you are “friendly” with tools. Let's look at the basic connection diagrams that will help you understand the installation details and connect the boiler to the water supply and electrical network.

Electric storage water heater is a thermally insulated storage tank with heating elements(heating elements) inside, cold water inlet and hot water outlet fittings and automatic maintenance temperature regime. They can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted, horizontal or vertical. Each type of installation has its own characteristics.

Construction of a Haier wall-mounted storage water heater: 1 - hot water outlet; 2 - cold water supply; 3 — storage tank; 4 - thermocouple; 5 - heating element; 6 — magnesium anode (corrosion protection); 7 — brackets

Features of installing a wall-mounted water heater

First of all, when installing a wall-mounted water heater, you need to make sure that the wall can withstand the additional load. Equipment manufacturers recommend using four times the weight of a boiler filled with water when making calculations. But since few people can correctly calculate the loads building structures, you should be guided by the following rules:

1. A load-bearing wall can support the weight of almost any domestic water heater.
2. When installing a boiler on walls, especially in “Khrushchev” buildings, or walls made of hollow bricks, small tanks can still be hung simply on anchors. It is better to install more or less capacious drives on a wall reinforced with racks or attach them to through bolts, secured with a tie for reliability.

Attaching the storage boiler to the wall

Schemes for connecting a wall-mounted storage water heater to water

The fittings for supplying cold water and discharging hot water are located at the bottom of the wall-mounted boiler, and are marked in blue and red, respectively. Connection to the main line can be done in two ways:

• without security group;
• with the security group.

Schemes without a safety group can be used when connecting a water heater designed for a pressure exceeding the pressure in the main cold water supply, if this pressure is stable. In case of unstable, strong pressure in the line, preference should be given to connecting through a safety group.

In any case, the connection and installation of the water supply system begins with inserting tees into the cold and hot water pipelines after the taps installed at the entrance of the water supply to the apartment.

Attention! If the pipes in the house have not been changed for a long time, you need to check their condition before work. Corroded ones may need to be replaced steel pipes for new ones.

Branches are made from the tees to connect the water heater. When the boiler is operating, the hot water tap must be completely closed. Cold water flows freely to heating, to faucets, and into the toilet cistern.

On the boiler, a non-return safety valve is screwed onto the cold water supply fitting. It serves as protection against thermal expansion of water in the storage tank, periodically bleeding off its excess. A drainage tube is installed from the drain hole of the valve, which should be directed downward and descend into the container or sewer freely, without kinks that could prevent the drainage of excess water in the tank.

Non-return safety valve

Cannot be installed between valve and water heater shut-off valves. But a tee, on the branch of which there is a tap for emptying the tank, can be installed, and is even recommended by the manufacturers. The pipe or hose from it must be led into the sewer, or connected with a tee to the cold water supply pipe until safety valve.

At the outlet of the hot water boiler and at the inlet of cold water, immediately after check valve, you need to install taps that shut off this line during the period when the water heater is not working. After the taps, the pipelines through flexible plumbing hoses or rigid steel or plastic pipes must be connected to branches from the tees on the mains.

Water supply without a safety group with a pressure reducer: 1 - water supply shut-off valves; 2 — water pressure reduction reducer; 3 - water heater shut-off valves; 4 - non-return safety valve; 5 - drainage into the sewer; 6 - valve for draining water from the tank; 7 - storage water heater

If the main water supply requires pressure adjustment, then a reducer or safety group is installed at the cold water inlet after the main taps or on branches from the tees. As a rule, for household water heaters in urban environments, it is sufficient to install a pressure reducer that reduces the pressure to acceptable or recommended limits by the manufacturer.

The safety group for an electric water heater consists of individual elements assembled locally. Not to be confused with the safety group for boilers! The order of their installation is shown in the figure.

Safety group assembly diagram: 1 - check valve; 2 - tee; 3 - “American”; 4 — safety valve FAR 6 bar; 5 - compression fitting for a metal-plastic pipe (draining when pressure is exceeded)

Scheme of water supply through the safety group: 1 - pressure reducer; 2 - valve for draining the tank; 3 - security group; 4 - drain into the sewer when water pressure exceeds

For horizontal water heaters, the connection is made according to similar schemes.

Schemes for connecting a water heater to the electrical network

For safe operation It is advisable to connect the water heater to the network in a dry place, and it is recommended to cover the cables in a moisture-proof channel. Apart from the boiler, other electrical appliances, especially powerful ones, should not be connected to this branch of the electrical network. The main elements of the circuit: electrical cable, socket, RCD and automatic circuit breaker.

Cable

The cross-section of the cable must be sufficient so that the wiring does not overheat and cause a fire. You will need a copper three-core cable brand NYM or its equivalent VVG. Recommended values ​​for the minimum cross-section of a copper core at different power of a single-phase water heater are given in Table 1.

Table 1

Socket

Low-power water heaters can be connected directly to a three-wire waterproof outlet with a degree of moisture protection according to GOST 14254-96, for example, IP44 or another suitable for your situation (see Table 2), which is installed on a separate supply from the electrical panel.

table 2

IP protection degrees		IPx0	IPx1	IPx2	IPx3	IPx4	IPx5	IPx6	IPx7	IPx8
		No protection	Falling vertical drops	The fall of vertical drops at an angle of 15° from the vertical	Splashes at an angle of 60° from vertical	Splashes from all sides	Jets from all sides under slight pressure	Strong currents	Temporary immersion (up to 1 m)	Full immersion
IP 0x	No protection	IP 00
IP 1x	Particles > 50 mm	IP 10	IP 11	IP 12
IP 2x	Particles > 12.5 mm	IP 20	IP 21	IP 22	IP 23
IP 3x	Particles > 2.5 mm	IP 30	IP 31	IP 32	IP 33	IP 34
IP 4x	Particles > 1 mm	IP 40	IP 41	IP 42	IP 43	IP 44
IP 5x	Partial dust	IP 50				IP 54	IP 65
IP 6x	Dust completely	IP 60					IP 65	IP 66	IP 67	IP 68

Grounded socket

Such a socket differs in appearance from a two-wire socket in the presence of metal grounding contacts (terminals).

Connection diagram for socket with grounding

Protection devices - RCDs and automatic devices

It is recommended to include a residual current device (RCD) in the electrical circuit for connecting water heaters (especially with increased power). It is designed to block the operation of equipment in the event of current leakage to the housing. The current strength at which blocking occurs is indicated on the device and must be 10 mA to operate the boiler. This parameter indicates the difference between the current entering and leaving the water heater.

The choice of RCD based on the power of the water heater is given in Table 3.

Table 3

The type of RCD for the alternating current network is “A” or “AC”. When choosing a device, you should give preference to a more expensive, electromechanical one - it is more reliable, responds faster and provides higher protection.

In some boilers, the RCD is included in the basic package and is located directly in the housing; in other models it must be purchased additionally.

Appearance of the RCD

Externally, the RCD and the differential switch (diffautomatic) are very similar, but they are easy to distinguish by markings. A conventional circuit breaker cuts off the current to the equipment when the voltage rises, while a differential circuit breaker simultaneously functions as both an RCD and a circuit breaker.

The choice of a two-pole circuit breaker based on the power of a single-phase water heater is given in Table 4.

Table 4

If you choose overly sensitive protection devices, the boiler will constantly turn off and the water will not heat up normally.

Connection diagrams

The connection diagram is adopted depending on the desired level and instrument design of protection of people and equipment. Below are a few common circuits, as well as a video that gives detailed explanations of these circuits.

Connection via socket only

Protection - double automatic: 1 - plug; 2 - socket; 3 - double automatic; 4 — shield; grounding

Connection via electrical panel: 1 - automatic; 2 - RCD; 3 - electrical panel

In the RCD + double circuit breaker circuit: 1 - RCD 10 mA; 2 - fork; 3 — IP44 socket; 4 - double automatic; 5 - water heater line; 6 - apartment line; 7 - electrical panel; 8 - grounding

According to safety rules, all electrical installation work is carried out with the power supply turned off at the individual electrical panel. Do not plug in the water heater without filling it with water. Do not drain the water from it without turning off the electricity.

Features of connecting an underfloor water heater

Since such a heater is installed on the floor, all connections to it are located not on the bottom panel, but at the bottom of the side or rear vertical wall. In everyday life they are like this storage boilers are rarely used, since the smallest of them have a tank volume of 100-150 liters. In addition, they take up a lot of space and have high power, which places serious demands on electrical wiring and safety automation.

The water connection for floor-mounted heaters is similar to wall-mounted models. Due to the relatively high power, the connection to the electrical network must be done exclusively through a separate panel.

Each user can, if desired, independently connect the water heater to the water supply system, the diagram of which is attached in the product data sheet. To understand how to properly connect the device to your home water supply network, it is enough to study the selection of heated water from the container and follow the instructions in accordance with the diagram. The procedure is not particularly complicated, and it can be done even alone, unless installing a water heater on the wall yourself will require outside help.

The principle of drawing water from a tank

There is one correct scheme for connecting a storage water heater, taking into account the features of its design and allowing, if necessary, to quickly empty the tank. This need arises for the following reasons:

• scheduled cleaning of the tank and heating element from scale;
• occurrence of a malfunction;
• moving or replacing the device with a new one;
• emptying a water heater in a country house or in a house with periodic heating in winter.

Connecting the water heater to the water supply, the diagram of its installation and placement must take into account that water is drawn from the upper zone of the tank. This is explained by the fact that at the top the water is the hottest, and in the lower zone there is a replenishment of cold flow in the presence of water intake in DHW system. Selection occurs through a vertical tube, the cut of which is located in the upper zone.

Water from the container must not be allowed to return to the cold water supply system, so the boiler is connected to the water supply through a check valve. If the pressure in the network drops as a result of turning off the water, the valve will prevent the contents of the tank from flowing back into the pipe.

As a result of the standard connection of the boiler to the water supply, it will not be possible to quickly empty it by opening the hot water tap. Even unscrewing DHW pipes from the fitting will not have any effect, since the water intake is located too high, and there is a check valve on the cold side. Solves the drain problem simple circuit connecting the water heater to the water supply, collected during the installation of the device.

What is required for installation?

Before installing an electric or gas boiler, you need to allocate it appropriate place taking into account the following points:

• placement of a water heater in an apartment or private house should be done taking into account ease of use and maintenance;
• it must be taken into account that when emptying or repairing the apparatus, a significant part of the water may spill onto the floor;
• It is convenient to connect the water heater yourself when the water supply and electrical network takes place nearby and in the same room;
• Do-it-yourself installation and connection of a gas boiler involves connecting a pipeline supplying natural gas to the room.

Based listed conditions, installation and connection of a storage water heater can be performed in the following areas of a private house or apartment:

• kitchen - above the sink;
• bathroom - above the bath;
• boiler room - above the tiled floor.

Before deciding how to connect the boiler to the water supply, you need to hang it from the wall. To complete all work, you will need an electric drill with an impact function (or a hammer drill), carbide-tipped drill bits and a standard set of plumbing tools, including a gas and adjustable wrench. The boiler connection diagram is assembled from the following elements and materials:

• check valve with safety valve in one housing (usually included with the boiler);
• bronze tee DN 15 (1/2");
• ball valve DN 15 (1/2") - 3 pcs., 2 of them - with American connection;
• pipes for connection (usually metal-polymer);
• FUM tape, flax or special thread for sealing joints.

There is also electrical diagram connection of the boiler, according to which it is necessary to purchase differential circuit breakers for current 16 A (2 pcs.), socket and plug with grounding contact, as well as power cable required length. Connecting a device operating on natural gas, carried out using a gas hose.

Self-assembly of the system

The procedure begins with wall mounting the device, and only after that the question of how to connect the storage water heater is resolved. Since the boiler has significant weight, it is better to secure it with an assistant. During installation, standard fasteners and anchor bolts or other devices are usually used if the wall is wooden or is a frame covered with plasterboard.

To connect a water heater with your own hands to the water supply network, turn off the water supply in the house and follow the instructions:

1. To the cold water supply fitting (it is painted in Blue colour) screw the tee, and to it - a standard check valve (also known as a safety valve).
2. Connect a ball valve without an American connector to the tee. For ease of emptying, you can screw a 90° elbow to it with a hose fitting.
3. Below the check valve, place a ball valve with an American connection. Install the same one on the hot water supply branch (marked in red on the water heater).
4. Connect the installed fittings to the cold and hot water supply system.

If you installed the boiler yourself in a boiler room or other place where there are no sanitary fixtures under the device, then the safety valve fitting must be connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible tube.

With absence sewer system the tube is lowered into a transparent plastic bottle or a canister. During operation of the unit, the heated water expands, and its excess slowly exits through the safety valve spout.

Thanks to assembled circuit connection, the boiler is easily emptied through a tee with a valve. Before draining, the cold water shut-off valve is closed, and the hot water shut-off valve is opened. You also need to open hot water at the nearest faucet; a maximum of 2 liters will flow out. Then the tap on the tee opens, and from there it drains; the place of water in the tank is taken by air entering through the mixer. Filling the container is simpler: you need to open the cold shut-off valve and wait until water runs out of the previously opened faucet. But first, do not forget to close the valve on the tee.