In the process of various construction and repair work indoors, there is often a need to remove construction waste. It is not recommended to use a regular vacuum cleaner for this purpose, since there is a high probability of failure of the filter, or even the entire vacuum cleaner. For this purpose, a construction vacuum cleaner is used, which is designed specifically for such work.
Let's look at what a construction (industrial) vacuum cleaner is and its main differences from a household one.
The power of a construction vacuum cleaner is several times greater than that of a household vacuum cleaner and can reach 4 kW. Thanks to this, you can easily remove construction debris, both small and large. With its help, you can easily remove cement dust, fragments of plaster, various fragments and sand, etc. The body of an industrial vacuum cleaner is mainly made of metal.
The vacuum cleaner has a reinforced filtration system. The motor of such a vacuum cleaner can work for a long time and withstand heavy loads, thanks to a special cooling system. The dust collector capacity of a construction vacuum cleaner is much larger than a conventional vacuum cleaner. All construction vacuum cleaners have an outlet for connecting power tools.
Such a vacuum cleaner costs more than a regular one, so many craftsmen try to make a construction vacuum cleaner with their own hands by remaking a household vacuum cleaner, and often encounter certain difficulties.
This article contains the most successful technical solutions How to convert a household vacuum cleaner into a construction vacuum cleaner. If you have a medium-power vacuum cleaner at home, then if you wish, you can turn it into a construction vacuum cleaner. Or you can buy an inexpensive vacuum cleaner and, by improving it, turn it into an industrial one. To do this, you do not have to redo the vacuum cleaner itself, but only need to make an external cyclone filter with your own hands. Next, we will consider two main options for manufacturing such a filter with and without a cone.
A description of homemade cyclone filters is given in this article mainly to introduce you to general idea and the operating principle of such devices. This means that, having familiarized yourself with the design, you are not obliged to repeat it completely, but can make various changes to it, or using the basic idea, make a cyclone filter of a completely new design.
Operating principle of the cyclone filter
The principle of operation of this filter is based on the passage of contaminated air through an external device, in which large particles settle in its housing, then the air is cleaned of fine dust, passing through the oil filter, and enters the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. Thus, the vacuum cleaner itself receives air that has already been purified from dust and debris.
Cyclone filter option 1 (without cone)
To make a cyclone filter with your own hands, you will need the following parts and materials:
- Oil filter. It filters fine dust.
- Bucket with a tight-fitting lid 20 l.
- Polypropylene elbows, intended for water supply systems, and having an angle of 90 and 45 degrees and a diameter of 40 mm - 1 piece.
- Plumbing pipe, plastic – 1 meter, diameter 40 mm.
- A piece of corrugated pipe 2 meters long and 40 mm in diameter. You will need it to log into the device.
Manufacturing process
1. In the lid of the bucket, in the center, you need to cut a hole into which a 90-degree angle is inserted; a vacuum cleaner will be connected to it.
2. Seal the cracks with sealant.
3. Cut a hole in the side wall of the bucket and insert a 45 degree corner.
4. A piece of pipe is used to connect the corrugation to the elbow.
5. For a longer service life of the filter, you can stretch a piece of nylon tights over it.
6. The filter outlet must be connected to the elbow in the bucket lid.
It may not be possible to fit the filter onto the outlet pipe. For this purpose, you need to come up with some kind of adapter. A piece of corrugation for a plumbing siphon or a rubber hose of a certain diameter may be suitable. It is advisable to coat all connections with sealant. An oil filter can be purchased at a store that sells auto parts.
It must be borne in mind that when closing the inlet, the bucket may crack. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the walls of the bucket in some way, or provide something like a valve. The main thing is not to rush in this matter, measure all the connections, and then you will succeed.
Only one of the options is described above. There are many similar designs. Instead of buckets, plastic barrels are used; there are designs where the role of a bucket is played by a fan pipe. Many craftsmen make their own containers from tin or thin iron.
Some inventors design a cyclone filter using a cone. This design often uses a traffic cone.
Option 2 (using a traffic cone)
The following parts and materials will be required:
- Road cone (can be purchased at a car store).
- Two meter rods 8 mm.
- Washers, nuts and lock washers 8 mm.
- Corrugated tubes with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of about 2 meters - two pieces.
Manufacturing process
- Cut off the stand at the very base of the cone. The cone is inserted into the bucket from above upside down. A tube is inserted inside the bucket. The space between the cone and the tube should be filled with construction foam.
- Cut a square out of 20 mm thick plywood so that the base of the cone fits into it and still has some space left. 4 holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the corners of the square. A hole is cut in the center for the tube; a corrugated hose will be placed on it, connecting the device to the vacuum cleaner.
- The lid for the bucket is cut out of multi-layer plywood and should fit tightly to the bucket. Glue a rubber gasket along its edges.
- A hole is sawed in the lid with a diameter for the narrow end of the cone.
- After the cone is inserted into the plywood cover, the joint is covered with foam. The cone should be placed upside down on the bucket, and is attached using four threaded rods, 50 cm long and 8 mm in diameter, they hold the plywood square with the cone screwed to it.
- Not far from the base of the cone, in its wide part, a hole is drilled for a tube to connect to a corrugated hose. Various construction waste will be sucked through it.
Filter fine cleaning In this version, a cyclone is not used, so fine dust can enter the vacuum cleaner turbine. When constructing such devices, vacuum cleaners with a bag are mainly used. Therefore, fine dust, if it gets inside, settles in the bag.
Options for homemade construction vacuum cleaners with an additional cyclone filter allow craftsmen to test various options, without fear of ruining the vacuum cleaner itself, since most of the debris is retained by the filter.
When making a cyclone filter with your own hands, do not be afraid to experiment, and in the end you will definitely achieve the desired result.
Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.
To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).
I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner , and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).
I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!
I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.
The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:
The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, the engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).
The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.
A suitable tin can was very useful for the cyclone body, and the central pipe was made from a can of polyurethane foam.
The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which the hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.
The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.
I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)
The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.
The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.
Upper part central pipe I bent the air duct into a square shape and fit the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) under it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.
For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.
The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto sealant.
To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin, I used latches from military wooden boxes (special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).
After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.
For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.
The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.
When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.
The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.
To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.
Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).
I made a hole for the outlet pipe.
I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.
The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.
Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:
Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.
The automatic start circuit is assembled on breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.
To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.
The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.
To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.
In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.
To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.
The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.
CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:
The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.
The main disadvantages of this design:
— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.
— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question of price arises from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.
— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.
— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.
Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.
In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And a special big thank you to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.
I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.
Making beautiful wooden furniture is fraught with danger for a production worker or private workshop - this is the smallest wood dust that has to be inhaled.
The use of personal protective equipment - glasses and respirators allows you to maintain clean breathing, but the air in the carpentry workshop in any case should be as clean as possible from wood dust. Otherwise, the atmosphere will literally become explosive - wood dust burns well.
A cyclone is a type of air purifier used in industry to remove suspended particles from gases or liquids. The cleaning principle is inertial, using centrifugal force. Cyclone dust collectors constitute the most widespread group among all types of dust collection equipment and are used in various fields of industry. Even some models of modern household vacuum cleaners use inertial cleaning. The principle of operation of the simplest countercurrent cyclone is clearly shown in the figure.
Operating principle of the Cyclone dust collector
A flow of dust-laden air is introduced into the apparatus through the inlet pipe tangentially in the upper part. A rotating gas flow is formed in the apparatus, directed to the bottom of the conical part of the apparatus. Under the influence of centrifugal force, dust particles are carried out of the flow and settle on the walls of the apparatus, then captured by the secondary flow and fall into the lower part, through outlet into a dust collection bin. Then the dust-free gas flow moves from bottom to top and is discharged from the cyclone through a coaxial exhaust pipe. Centrifugal fan, installed in the upper part of the working chamber, creates a vacuum in the cyclone body, as a result of which air is pumped through the inlet pipe. Passing in a spiral under the action of centrifugal force, heavy fractions are separated and deposited in the bunker, while the air exits through the exhaust pipe and enters the filter, where smaller particles are retained.
IN normal conditions optimal speed air in the cylindrical part of the cyclone is 4 m/s. At a speed of 2.5 m/s, the dust collector best copes with purifying the air from heavy impurities. To reduce the noise level, the unit is placed in a separate room with sound insulation. Monitoring the filling of the hopper is facilitated by using a small light source placed behind a transparent corrugated hose. If the light dims, the bunker is full. By the way, the use of large diameter hoses, as well as hoses made of antistatic
materials improves their permeability. To connect such hoses, use connections of a suitable diameter. With sufficient performance, the device can be used to clean the workshop as an industrial vacuum cleaner. As a result, from 20 mm plywood and a sheet of galvanized steel, this is the result (photo 1).
DIY centrifugal fan for Cyclone
First I made a centrifugal fan-scroll. The body covers were made from plywood 20 mm thick, the body was bent from alucobond, light and durable composite material, 3 mm thick (photo 2). I milled grooves in the lids using
a hand router and a compass device for it with a cutter with a diameter of 3 mm and a depth of 3 mm (photo 3). I inserted the snail body into the grooves and tightened everything with long bolts. It turned out tough reliable design(photo 4). Then I made a fan for the snail from the same alucobond. I cut out two circles with a router, milled grooves into them (photo 5), 8 which I inserted into the blades (photo 6), and glued them with a hot glue gun (photo 7). The result was a drum similar to a squirrel wheel (photo 8).
The impeller turned out to be light, durable and with precise geometry; it didn’t even have to be balanced. I put it on the engine axle. I completely collected the snail. A 0.55 kW 3000 rpm 380 V engine was at hand.
I connected and tested the fan on the go (photo 9). It blows and sucks very strongly.
DIY cyclone body
Using a router and compass, I cut out base circles from 20 mm plywood (photo 10). I bent the upper cylinder body from a roofing sheet, screwed it with self-tapping screws to a plywood base, sealed the joint with double-sided tape, tied the sheet together with two ties and riveted it with blind rivets (photo 11). In the same way I made the lower conical part of the body (photo 12). Further
I inserted pipes into the cylinder, used polypropylene pipes for external sewerage 0 160 mm, glued them with hot glue (photo 13). The suction pipe was pre-attached from the inside of the cylinder rectangular shape. I preheated it with a hairdryer, inserted a rectangular wooden mandrel into it and cooled it (photo 14). I bent the housing for the air filter in the same way. By the way, I used a filter from KamAZ because large area filter curtain (photo 15). I connected the upper cylinder and the lower cone, screwed the snail on top,
I connected the air filter using polypropylene bends to the volute (photo 16). I assembled the entire structure, placed a plastic barrel under the sawdust, and connected it to the lower cone with a transparent corrugated pipe to see the filling level. I tested a homemade unit: I connected it to a jointing machine, which produces the most shavings (photo 17). The tests went with a bang, not a speck on the floor! I was very pleased with the work done.
DIY cyclone - photo
- Cyclone assembled. This installation provides high level air purification.
- Fan parts.
- The grooves in the lid were worked with a milling cutter using a compass tool with a cutter with a diameter of 3 mm and a depth of 3 mm.
- Case and fan ready for assembly.
- Before gluing the blades.
- The drum and impeller look like industrially manufactured parts.
- A glue gun comes to the rescue precisely at the moment when it is simply irreplaceable.
- Before assembling the electric motor, it is important to check the fastening of the impeller to the shaft.
- A powerful motor can turn the cyclone into a real vacuum cleaner!
- Blanks for the cyclone body.
- The upper cylinder body is made of galvanized roofing steel.
- The finished cone part awaits assembly.
- Propylene pipes as elements of inlet and outlet lines.
- The polypropylene pipe has turned from round and large to rectangular small.
- Kamaz filter for fine air purification after a cyclone.
- Polypropylene sewer outlets work well as an air line.
- Indeed, there is much less dust, and you can even walk the board clean.
© Oleg Samborsky, Sosnovoborsk, Krasnoyarsk Territory
HOW TO MAKE A HOOD IN YOUR WORKSHOP WITH YOUR OWN HANDS – OPTIONS, REVIEWS AND METHODS
DIY workshop hood
You needed: galvanized sheet steel 1 mm thick, plumbing pipes d 50 mm and adapters for them, a vacuum cleaner, a paint bucket.
- I drew a sketch of a cyclone and a wiring diagram for removing dust and sawdust (see figure on page 17). Cut out blanks for the cyclone body and cover
- I bent the edges of the straight sides of the tin body part (marked with dash-dotted lines in the drawing) to a width of 10 mm - for connection.
- On cutting the pipe, I gave the resulting workpiece a rounded conical shape. I fastened the lock (bent the edges into a hook) and crimped the tin.
- At the top and bottom of the case at an angle of 90 degrees, I bent the edges 8 mm wide to attach the lid and garbage bin.
- I cut out an oval hole in the cylinder, installed a side pipe d 50 mm into it (photo 1), which was secured inside with a galvanized strip.
- I cut a hole in the lid, fixed the inlet pipe d 50 mm in it (photo 2), secured it finished part on the body and rolled the joint on an anvil.
- The cyclone riveted to the neck of the bucket (photo 3). The joints of all elements were coated with silicone sealant.
- I attached two channels of the exhaust system along the wall (photo 4) with flaps for changing the flow (photo 5). I installed a household vacuum cleaner nearby, and placed a bucket with a cyclone on the floor (see photo 3). I connected everything with rubber hoses.
CYCLONE HOOD DIAGRAM AND PHOTO
DSO138 open source 2.4" TFT 1msps digital oscilloscope…
If a person has his own workshop, then one of the most important issues is cleaning the premises. But unlike cleaning dust in an apartment, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner will not help here, since it is not designed for construction waste and sawdust - its garbage container (dust container or bag) will very quickly become clogged and become unusable. Therefore, they often use a homemade cyclone filter, which, together with a household vacuum cleaner, will help clean the workshop.
Introduction
Wood dust and other technical debris, although it seems harmless at first glance, actually pose many different dangers, both for the master and for the equipment. For example, prolonged work without protective equipment that prevents dust from entering the respiratory system can cause serious complications with the respiratory tract, impair the sense of smell, etc. In addition, a tool that is in the workshop under the influence of dust can quickly fail. This happens because:
- dust, mixing with lubricant inside the tool, forms a mixture that is completely unsuitable for lubricating moving parts, which results in overheating and further damage
- dust can make it difficult for the moving parts of the tool to rotate, which leads to additional stress, overheating and failure,
- dust clogs the air ducts designed to ventilate the heated parts of the tool and remove heat from them, again resulting in overheating, deformation and failure.
Thus, the issue of the quality of removal of sawing products and, in general, cleaning of the premises is very acute. Modern power tools are equipped with systems for removing dust and chips directly from the sawing area, which prevents dust from spreading throughout the workshop. In any case, the dust removal process requires a vacuum cleaner (or chip cleaner)!
There are good industrial vacuum cleaners and if possible, it is better to choose the most best option price and quality and buy a construction vacuum cleaner.
However, there are cases when you already have a household vacuum cleaner and it is easier to upgrade it and solve the problem of collecting construction waste indoors. To do this, you need to use a cyclone filter - it can be done in half an hour if all the necessary elements are available.
Principle of operation
There are a great many different designs of cyclones, but they all share the same operating principle. All designs of cyclone chip suckers consist of three main parts:
- Household vacuum cleaner
- Cyclone filter
- Waste collection container
Its design is such that the flow of intake air is directed in a circle and its rotational movement is obtained. Accordingly, the construction waste contained in this air flow (these are large and heavy fractions) is acted upon by a centrifugal force, which presses it against the walls of the cyclone chamber and, under the influence of gravity, it gradually settles in the tank.
The disadvantage of a cyclone vacuum cleaner is that in this way you can only collect dry garbage, but if there is water in the garbage, then there will be problems when sucking up such a substance.
The vacuum cleaner must be powerful enough, since in its normal mode of operation it is assumed that air is sucked through a standard hose. If an additional cyclone filter is used, an additional filter appears in the air path, and the total length of the air duct is more than doubled due to the additional air duct. Since the design is as maneuverable as a separate vacuum cleaner, the length of the last hose should be sufficient for comfortable work.
Preparatory work
As mentioned above, you can make a cyclone filter for a workshop in half an hour, but to do this you need to check the availability of everything necessary for the production of a chip blower with your own hands, namely: tools, materials and consumables.
Tools
To carry out the work, the following tools will be needed:
- electric drill,
- screwdriver,
- jigsaw,
- compass,
- clamps,
- Phillips screwdriver,
- pencil,
- on wood (50-60mm),
- kit .
Materials and fasteners
Materials can be used both new and used, so carefully review the list below - you may already have something in stock;
- The air duct (hose) for a vacuum cleaner is corrugated or in a textile braid.
- A sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 100–150 mm, into one of the ends of which the air duct of your household vacuum cleaner should be inserted.
- Sewer outlet 30 or 45 degrees, 100–200 mm long, into one end of which the air duct specified in paragraph 1 will be inserted.
- Plastic bucket (“large”) 11-26 liters with a hermetically sealed lid.
- Bucket (“small”) plastic 5-11 liters. Note. It is important that the difference between the two maximum diameters of the buckets is approximately 60–70 mm.
- Sheet 15–20 mm thick. Note. The sheet size must be larger than the maximum diameter of the Large Bucket.
- Wood screws with a flat wide head and a length of 2/3 of the thickness.
- Universal gel sealant.
Table standard sizes round plastic buckets.
| Volume, l | Cover diameter, mm | Height, mm |
| 1,0 | 125 | 115 |
| 1,2 | 132 | 132 |
| 2,2 | 160 | 150 |
| 2,3 | 175 | 133 |
| 2,6 | 200 | 124 |
| 3,0 | 200 | 139 |
| 3,4 | 200 | 155 |
| 3,8 | 200 | 177 |
| 3,8 | 200 | 177 |
| 5,0 | 225 | 195 |
| 11 | 292 | 223 |
| 18 | 326 | 275 |
| 21 | 326 | 332 |
| 26 | 380 | 325 |
| 33 | 380 | 389 |
Making a cyclone filter
Creating a homemade chip sucker consists of a number of stages:
- Creating a retaining ring and a shaped insert
- Installing the Retaining Ring
- Installing the side pipe
- Top entry installation
- Installing a shaped insert
- Cyclone filter assembly
Creating a retaining ring and a shaped insert
It is necessary to cut off the side of a small bucket, which is used to attach the lid. The result should be a cylinder like this (well, slightly conical).
We make markings - place a small bucket on it and draw a line along the edge - we get a circle.
Then we determine the center of this circle (see. school course geometry) and mark another circle, the radius of which is 30 mm larger than the existing one. Then we mark the ring and the shaped insert, as shown in the figure.
Installing the Retaining Ring
We fix the ring on the edge of a small bucket so that we get a side. We fasten using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to pre-drill the holes to avoid splitting.
We mark the roof of a large bucket. To mark, you need to place the bucket itself on the lid of a large bucket and trace its outline. It is better to make markings with a felt-tip pen, as the mark is clearly visible.
It is important to note that all connections must be airtight; therefore, before installing the cover, the connection area must be coated with sealant. You also need to coat the junction of the wooden ring and the small bucket.
Installing the side pipe
The side pipe is made from a sewer outlet of 30 degrees (or 45 degrees). To install it, you need to drill a hole in the top of the small bucket with a crown. Notice that the top of the small bucket has now become its bottom.
Top entry installation
To make the upper input, you need to drill a hole in the upper part of the chip sucker (small bucket), that is, in the center of the former bottom.
To firmly fix the inlet pipe, use additional element strength in the form of a square piece of 20 mm thickness with a central hole for a 50 mm pipe.
This workpiece is fastened from below with four self-tapping screws. Before installation, the joint must be coated with sealant to ensure a tight seal.
Installing a shaped insert
The shaped insert is a very important component of a homemade chip cleaner; it must be secured inside the cyclone filter, as shown in the photo.
Cyclone filter assembly
Then you need to connect the air ducts correctly:
- Upper pipe – to a household vacuum cleaner
- An angled outlet that enters from the side at an angle to the hose.
The homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner (chip cleaner) is ready.
Video
Video this review is based on:
When carrying out repairs and construction work a lot of garbage appears. Sawdust, shavings, scraps of materials mixed with dust must be removed regularly. Regular sweeping with a mop is excluded due to the specifics of the work, if dust and small particles can stick to the surface, for example, after priming or painting.
An ordinary vacuum cleaner will not cope with such debris or will quickly break down. Household electrical devices designed for medium short-term load.
For such cases, specialized equipment is produced. A construction vacuum cleaner can work for quite a long time without stopping, has significant power, and uses completely different filter systems than household vacuum cleaners.
When should you use a construction vacuum cleaner?
Those who are constantly faced with construction, repair and carpentry work know about the need to timely clean the workplace at the end of the stage. Cleaning can be done multiple times in one day, so it’s reasonable to want to make the process easier for yourself.
Pieces of foam and plastic film, scraps of gypsum board, chipped plaster, dust from cutting aerated concrete - all this debris settles not only on horizontal surfaces, but is also electrified and attached to vertical walls.
Cleaning with a mop and dustpan is not always appropriate due to large areas, and washing will only turn dry dirt into wet slurry, especially in unfinished rooms.
Due to the small size of the dust container, a regular household appliance will quickly become clogged and will have to be continuously cleaned. If large particles get in, there is a high risk of breaking the equipment.
It is in such conditions the best solution will use a construction vacuum cleaner.
Pros and cons of a construction vacuum cleaner
High power allows professional equipment to work without interruption for quite a long time, and a long hose provides access to remote areas without the need to carry the vacuum cleaner or interrupt work.
But it also has disadvantages:
- High price. If periodic or one-time work is required, purchasing a new expensive tool is not practical.
- Large size and weight.
Some craftsmen have come up with a way out of the situation in the form of an additional option to the existing technology. At fairly low costs, you can assemble a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. This design will increase the capabilities of an existing conventional household vacuum cleaner.
Making a cyclone with your own hands
There is a huge selection of instructions on the Internet. self-production cyclone filter, including attached drawings and photographs. But they are united by a standard set of components.
So, what do we need:
Assembly instructions.
The main indicator that a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner is assembled correctly with your own hands will be debris collecting at the bottom or settling on the walls of the container, while the suction will be fast and high-quality. Do not forget to check the tightness of the structure.
The history of the cyclone filter
The creator of cyclone filter technology is James Dyson. It was he who first made a filter with operation based on the action of centrifugal force. Why did this device become so popular and in demand that the inventor filed a patent for it?
The filter consists of two chambers. Under the influence of centrifugal force inside the unit, the debris begins to swirl into the funnel. Large trash at the same time, it settles in the first chamber, the outer one, and dust and light debris collects on the inside. This way, clean air comes out through the top hole.
The main advantages of the cyclone filter:
- no need for dust collection bags and their constant replacement;
- compact filter sizes;
- quiet operation;
- An easy-to-remove lid allows you to regularly check the level of contamination and promptly dispose of garbage;
- speed and efficiency of work.
A vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter can be used both at home and for professional purposes.
