If you want to make a stove yourself, just take a used gas, oxygen or carbon cylinder. The thickness of the walls of such a tank is quite suitable for creating a durable heating device, capable of heating a room up to 90 square meters. m. A structure made in this way can also be converted to connect to a water heating system.
Features of gas cylinder stoves
To maintain combustion in a homemade heating device, it is not necessary to create conditions under which air is forcedly supplied. At the same time, in order to prevent an emergency and ensure safe heating of the cylinder, the water circuit must be installed at the level of the height of the combustion source located inside the unit.
We make a stove from a cylinder with our own hands
Many home craftsmen can probably advise you on several ways to create an effective heating device from an empty cylinder. We will consider only one option.
Before you begin the creative process, we recommend purchasing everything in advance necessary tools and materials. So, you will need:
Having prepared everything you need, we suggest proceeding directly to the process of creating a heating device:
That's all, the stove using waste oil from a cylinder is ready for use. When operating the unit, do not forget about the rules fire safety.
Remember that unclean oil can cause an emergency. Do not use kerosene or add liquid fuel while the stove is operating. Only 2/3 of the tank should be filled with oil.
Many businesses are in progress economic activity use different kinds oils - motor, transmission, transformer and even vegetable oils, which after processing need to be disposed of somewhere. Such development may become great view fuel if used in a special oven. And it is easier for enterprises to give away or sell used oil cheaply to consumers than to dispose of it. This article will talk about the types and advantages of using furnaces for mining, and how to make them yourself.
Advantages and disadvantages of using mining for heating
It is worth noting that, in terms of thermal power, the furnace during processing can be compared with an electric heater of 15 kW, and it will require about 0.5-2 liters of fuel per hour.
The principle of operation of the furnace using gas cylinder exhaust is direct heating of air. It is advisable to use such units in large premises - winter gardens and greenhouses, garages, warehouses and repair shops. If, for example, a car service center constantly has a large supply of used oil, then it can be used for heating - there is no need to throw it away, and you save on resources.
Some of the benefits of working out include:
- absence of soot and burning during combustion;
- fire safety - only vapors burn, and not the used oil itself;
- ease of use.
This fuel also has a number of disadvantages, in particular:
- Unrefined used oil from a car service center cannot be used in boilers due to the large amount of impurities, since the main elements of the unit will become clogged. This is fraught with serious consequences, including an explosion. Cleaning cannot be done at home. Therefore, you need to purchase special prepared oil.
- According to the law, all enterprises that accumulate a large number of waste oil must enter into agreements for its disposal with special companies. These are paid services. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will be able to take away your work from them completely free of charge.
- At negative temperatures, the mining material freezes. Therefore, you need to find a storage place for it or deepen the container with oil into the ground, below the freezing level of the soil.
Types of waste oil boilers and furnaces
The greatest demand is for mining furnaces with pyrolysis combustion type and turbo burners. Pyrolysis ovens have two chambers. In the first chamber, the oil is heated and decomposed into components when there is a shortage of air. The resulting vapors move to the second chamber, where, with full access to oxygen, they burn, releasing a lot of thermal energy. By adjusting the oxygen supply to the chamber, you can control the pyrolysis temperature. Such ovens require periodic cleaning, and maintenance required temperature not possible in automatic mode.
As for turbo burners, they work like diesel engines. Oil is injected into the combustion chamber, vapors are released and ignite. However, this type of boiler is extremely sensitive to the purity of the oil; moreover, it must be preheated.
Depending on the design, waste furnaces can be:
- with drip oil supply;
- with blower;
- made from a gas cylinder.
Gas cylinder stoves
The simplest design is for a waste oil furnace from a gas cylinder. You can also use carbon or oxygen cylinders. Their main advantage is their large wall thickness, which ensures durability of the structure.
This stove is designed to heat a room with an area of up to 90 m2. If desired, a water circuit can be connected to the heating boiler. Air injection will not be needed, and the oil will spontaneously flow into the boiler. The height of the boiler body must correspond to the height of the flame so that the boiler does not overheat during operation.
To make an oil stove from a gas cylinder, you will need:
- chimneys with an internal cross-section of 10 cm, walls up to 2 mm thick and a length of 4 meters;
- fuel tank with a capacity of 8-15 liters;
- burner pipes;
- metal corners;
- welding with a set of electrodes;
- drill and drill bits;
- Bulgarian;
- needle file;
- roulette and level.
Assembly technology
You will need a standard 50 liter cylinder without seams with walls no more than 1.5 cm thick. Metal of greater thickness simply will not be able to warm up properly so that the oil begins to evaporate. Inside the combustion chamber, the temperature will reach 600℃.
To get rid of foreign odors, the container must be rinsed several times. After this, it is filled to the top with water and placed in a container or buried in the ground to secure it firmly.
Using a grinder, cut off the top of the cylinder. Once cutting begins, water will begin to flow out of it. When it drops to the level of the cut, you can continue working. The lower part will be the combustion chamber of the stove using exhaust from a gas cylinder, and the upper part will become the lid.
Legs from corners 20 cm long are welded to the bottom of the cylinder and placed vertically. You should retreat 10-15 cm from the upper edge of the lower part of the cylinder and cut out a hole for the pipe with a cross-section of 5-8 cm by welding. The length of this segment can be 2-4 meters. It is inserted into the hole in the cylinder and welded parallel to the floor.
As a chimney, you can use a pipe with thin walls, 4 meters long, which must be positioned strictly vertically. In this pipe you need to make a small window with a damper so that you can control the access of oxygen to the oil-burning stove from a gas cylinder.
A hole with a cross section of 5-8 cm is also cut in the chimney in order to connect it to a section of pipe already welded to the cylinder. The hole should be approximately 1 m above the floor.
At the bottom of the cylinder, 10 cm are retreated from the welding site and a hole with a cross-section of 2-3 mm is cut by welding. Next, with an indentation of 5 mm, you need to make 9 more holes upward, so that the last one will be at a height of 50 cm from the bottom.
Oil will be poured into the boiler from a gas cylinder through the top cover, so in this part you need to make a hole 5-8 cm in diameter.
Please note that in a stove using waste oil from a gas cylinder, only purified treatment should be used, since low-quality fuel with impurities and alcohols can cause an explosion.
If you want to be able to heat food or water on the stove, you can weld a small square or rectangular platform made of a sheet of steel on the top lid of the cylinder. In addition, such a tray can also be attached to a pipe located parallel to the floor.
Operating procedure
The cylinder is filled 2/3 full with waste, a sheet of paper is set on fire, placed on top of the oil and the furnace lid is closed. As soon as the temperature inside the oven reaches the required values, the oil will begin to evaporate and the vapors will ignite.
Please note that for safety reasons you should never add fuel to a working stove. In addition, flammable materials such as gasoline and kerosene are also prohibited from being used in such a unit.
When the fuel has burned and the stove has cooled, the residue is removed from it, and the soot is removed from the lid by knocking on it.
Making a boiler from sheet steel
Exhaust furnaces made from steel sheets are in demand among consumers. Their advantages are compact dimensions (70×50×35), low weight, as well as the ability to connect to heating system Houses. In addition, such structures are quite functional in conditions of negative temperatures. You can heat or cook food on the surface of the oven.
The following consumables and tools are prepared for work:
- sheet steel - 2 sheets of 4 and 6 mm thick;
- chimney with a length of 4 m, an internal cross-section of 10 mm, walls 4-5 mm thick;
- steel, copper or tin pipe for the burner;
- 4 metal corners 20 cm high;
- welding machine with electrodes;
- Bulgarian;
- file, hammer;
- roulette, level;
- blueprints.
The procedure for making a furnace from steel sheets
First of all, you need to select a suitable detailed drawing with dimensions. According to it, blanks for the furnace are made.
The fuel tank elements are made of 4 mm thick steel, but the tank lid and the bottom of the fuel chamber must be made of 6 mm steel.
The steel sheet is laid on a flat surface, markings are applied to it and the parts are cut out with a grinder the right size. Scale and deposits are cleaned off with a file.
A strip of 115 mm width is cut out of steel 4 mm thick, which is bent on a machine into a pipe with a cross-section of 34-34.5 cm. The ends of the sheet are welded - this will be the pipe of the oil tank.
The lid for the container with oil (a circle with a cross-section of 34.5 cm) is cut out of the same steel. This cover must be welded to the pipe. In addition, 4 legs from the corners are welded onto it.
A strip 6 cm wide is cut from steel 6 mm thick. This strip is twisted into a ring with a cross-section of 35.2 cm. A circle of the same diameter as the ring (35.2 cm) is cut out of the same steel. A hole with a cross section of 10 cm is cut in the center of the circle for the chimney. Having retreated 4 cm from it, cut out another hole with a cross-section of 5-6 cm for pouring oil. The prepared circle is welded to the ring. This will be the oil fill tank.
Another circle with a cross section of 35.2 cm is cut out of steel 6 mm thick. Stepping back a little from the edge of the circle, you need to cut a hole 10 cm in diameter. There should be about 11 cm between the center of the circle and the center point of the hole. A pipe for connecting to the chimney will be inserted into this hole.
The pipe is made from a 10 cm pipe, its length is 13 cm.
Next you need to cut a rectangular plate 7 cm wide and 33 cm long from 6 mm steel. It will serve as a partition. The plate is welded inside a ring with a cross-section of 35.2 cm closer to the hole for the pipe. After this, an exhaust pipe 13 cm high is inserted into the hole.
The next step is making the burner. On the pipe in the lower part you need to make 48 holes of 9 mm in diameter, arranging them in 6 rows of 8 pieces each with a space of 6 cm between them.
This pipe is inserted into the cover of the oil tank, which is cut out of 4 mm steel. It is important to make sure that the pipe is level and tight. If necessary, you can adjust the level with a grinder and a file. After this, the parts are welded together and the seams are cleaned.
An exhaust pipe 16 cm long is inserted into the oil filling tank.
Now the upper and lower parts of the tank can be connected, but not welded - simply inserted into each other. For strength, an o-ring with a cross-section of 35.4 cm is placed on top of the container. The level will help check the horizontalness of the structure and the accuracy of the joining of parts.
Next, weld the burner pipe to the oil filling tank. On the other hand, you need to weld a structure connected by a ring to it. Before starting welding, it is worth checking the levels and correct installation of the elements. You need to attach a round valve over the oil filling hole.
A 4 m long pipe will serve as a chimney. Outside the house, the chimney should only be positioned vertically so that the wind does not blow into it.
Please note that the chimney cannot be mounted in a horizontal plane. Provided that the chimney is too long, it can be fixed with brackets or steel bends.
How to use the oven
To decorate the stove and make it more attractive in appearance, you can make special paint. The proportions of ingredients are as follows: for 500 g liquid glass You will need 200 g of aluminum powder and 20 g of chalk. You get a lot of paint, so you can proportionally reduce the amount of ingredients.
After vigorous shaking, all components are mixed, and the paint can be safely applied to the stove with a regular brush.
Please pay attention to a number of safety rules when operating the oven:
- The unit should be installed away from drafts;
- Highly flammable objects and substances should not be left near the stove;
- there should be about 50 cm of clearance on all sides of the stove;
- It is important to avoid getting water into the oil container, as this will cause boiling fuel to splash through the burner;
- the chimney must be tightly connected to the unit;
- The fuel for such a furnace can only be technical oil.
The oven warms up to operating temperatures within 5 minutes. The waste is poured into the fuel tank to 2/3 of its capacity, and about 20-30 g of solvent or gasoline is poured on top. Light the wick on the wire and use it to ignite gasoline through the oil filling hole. This will heat up the oil faster so that evaporation can begin. When the vapors ignite in the burner, you can see a stable flame, fueled by the incoming oxygen. Using a blower, you can slightly regulate the intensity of combustion.
Please note that a burning stove should not be left unattended.
The waste furnaces have a simple design and run on cheap fuel - waste oil. The most stable and safe work can be achieved by designing a drip supply of oil from a remote tank. Furnaces drip type easy to make with your own hands waste materials and scrap metal.
The furnace usually consists of a cylindrical body or has rectangular shape. There is a combustion chamber inside. In its lower part there is a container for waste oil and an air suction hole.
When heated, the oil begins to evaporate, and its vapors mix with the air in the chamber. This mixture rises under the influence of convection up the firebox, where it burns, releasing a large amount of thermal energy.
An air or water heat exchanger can be built into the upper part of the housing, this will allow you to heat the entire area of the room more completely and evenly or install a hot water supply circuit.
Drip supply is carried out through a metal tube connected to the oil evaporator. The other end of the tube is brought out and connected to the tank using a flexible hose.
At the top of the stove there is a smoke pipe connected to the chimney. The temperature at the top of the stove, even if equipped with a heat exchanger, is high, so it must be installed in strict compliance with fire safety regulations.
It is not recommended to make an open drip feed oven! Oil may ignite!Drawings of the furnace during testing with drip irrigation are shown in the figure. 
What can it be made from?
Thanks to its simple design, an oil-drip furnace can be made with your own hands from almost any material: sheet iron, old barrel, gas cylinder. The only condition is that the walls should not be thinner than 4 mm, otherwise the body will move when fired.
Simple and reliable way- do it yourself. Its body is durable and can withstand high pressure and heating, and the dimensions are just right for a stove capable of a workshop or small a private house. When used carefully, such a stove is safe, easy to clean and light. The operation of the furnace is shown in the video.
Watch video: furnace in operation
Necessary materials
- To assemble a drip-type furnace operating on waste oil, you will need:
- gas cylinder 50 liters - used, but without damage to the body;
- metal pipe Ø100, with a wall thickness of at least 3.5 m - about two meters;
- scraps of metal equal-angle corner 40-50 mm for the heat exchanger, stand and other small parts;
- sheet steel 4 mm, you can also use scraps of a suitable size;
- cast iron brake disc from a passenger car;
- used freon cylinder standard size with working needle valve;
- metal pipe ½ inch - about half a meter;
- a hose of a suitable diameter that can be put on a ½-inch pipe and clamps;
- ½ inch ball valve;
- door hinges and latch for the firebox door.
For the air heat exchanger you will also need duct fan and pipes of suitable diameter. You can use a corrugated pipe or components for a chimney.
Preparing the balloon
The gas cylinder, even after prolonged ventilation, contains gas condensate. To remove it, you need to remove the gearbox and valve from it and expose it to fresh air for a couple of days.
After this, a hole is very carefully drilled in the bottom of the cylinder. To avoid sparks, the drill must be moistened with oil. Drilling a hole in thick metal is difficult, so it is better to start with a drill of a smaller diameter, and then drill it out to the required size. The result should be a hole with a diameter of 10-16 mm.
The drilled container is filled with water and, after standing for 24 hours, it is drained. The condensation is sharp and extremely bad smell, so you need to drain it carefully and away from residential areas. You can repeat the procedure to rinse the balloon properly.
Furnace body
The cylinder is conventionally divided into two unequal parts: the lower - 1/3 of the height, and the upper - 2/3. Openings are cut out in both parts, approximately a quarter of the circle in width. The execution of the openings is shown in the photo.
Cut out the holes using a grinder, trying to make an even cut - the cut pieces of metal will then be used to make doors.
The interior of the cylinder is washed again with water under pressure from a hose. This will help completely wash away any remaining gas condensate.
The oven compartments must be separated by a metal insert. It is cut out with your own hands from sheet metal 4 mm according to the size of the cylinder. 
This circle forms chamber bottom combustion of oil vapors. The resulting chamber is quite large in size, which allows you to use the stove for burning wood or briquettes, as well as burn garbage in it. Try the bottom in place and adjust it if necessary. 
Burner made with your own hands from a piece of pipe Ø100 mm, length - 20 cm. In it. using a drill and a metal drill bit. make holes with a diameter of 10 mm. 
The holes are placed around the circumference in a checkerboard pattern until approximately the middle of the burner.
After drilling the holes, the inside of the pipe is carefully ground so that there are no burrs left. Soot and soot will settle on them during the operation of the stove. 
The burner is installed in the previous part - the bottom of the upper chamber, after which the joint is welded using a welding machine. 
The resulting part is installed in place - in the furnace body between the chambers. Place it with the perforated part down. The holes are designed for free air suction. 
Pallet for testing, forming the bottom of the lower chamber, is made with your own hands from a car brake disc of a suitable diameter. You can take a used disk. Cast iron is a heat-resistant material; moreover, the design of the disk makes the lower part of the stove heavier and makes it more stable. 
Welded to the bottom of the disk plug, to close the holes. It is cut out of 4 mm sheet metal. 
They make it out of it top cover with an opening. The shape of the opening should allow the counter part of the burner to be welded and allow free access to air. 
The bottom of the burner is welded to the lid - a piece of pipe Ø100 mm, length - 10 cm. 
A coupling is used to connect the burner parts. You can make it yourself from a Ø100 mm pipe, cut lengthwise and slightly bent. coupling necessary in order to make the burner design detachable. By lifting it, you can remove the oil pan and clean it, as well as remove soot from the top of the chamber and burner. 
Oil supply system
In do-it-yourself drip-type furnaces, oil is supplied from an external tank using an adjustable dropper. In the furnace design under consideration, a used freon cylinder is used as a dropper. The main condition is the serviceability of its needle valve. 
A hole is cut in the lower part of the cylinder of such a size that it is convenient to fill the waste from a canister or other container. You can install a mesh on the filler hole, it will act as a filter rough cleaning. Oil tank should be located above the level of the stove, so brackets for suspension can be welded to the body. A hose is connected to the cylinder valve using a clamp. 
A hole is made in the furnace body, positioning it on the installation side of the oil tank. The diameter of the hole should allow the installation of a half-inch oil supply pipe. 
A piece of the required length is cut from the pipe and a thread is cut at one end, and the other is cut at an angle so as to direct the stream of oil exactly into the opening in the pan.
The pipe is welded to the body. The seam is cleaned. 
Screw onto the other end of the pipe, equipped with a thread. ball valve. During assembly, a squeegee with the free end of the oil hose is connected to the valve. 
Heat exchanger
In this oven the heat exchanger is not required element. If you need to heat a small room without partitions, the heat from the walls of the stove will be enough. But for greater efficiency, it is recommended to make an air or water heat exchanger located in the upper chamber.
As a heat exchanger, use a piece of pipe Ø100 mm of such length that its ends extend beyond the body by 10-20 cm on both sides. Two holes are made in the housing on opposite sides through which this pipe is passed. It is secured by welding.
A flame divider made of sheet iron is welded above the heat exchanger. It will break the flame into tongues, due to which the heat transfer to the walls and pipe of the heat exchanger will increase.
A swirler is installed inside the air heat exchanger. It is necessary to accelerate air flows and better heat removal. It is made from a steel strip or angle, divided into bent blades. 
Air ducts are connected to the heat exchanger pipe. They can be made from an uninsulated chimney pipe and the corresponding corner elements. On one side, a duct fan is installed into the air duct. The fan can be connected to the network directly or through the contacts of a thermal relay, installing it on the fan housing and adjusting the temperature experimentally. 
Doors and shut-off valves
Doors are made from the cylinder fragments cut off at the first stage, with hinges and a valve welded to them. 
A hole is made on the bottom door to improve air supply. It is more convenient to do it at the bottom. 
To seal the top door, stop plates are made from a steel strip. They are mounted on rivets. 
The door lock can have absolutely any design; you can make it yourself, since the door is opened infrequently, only to remove soot or when burning the stove with solid fuel. 
Smoke pipe and chimney
A smoke pipe from a piece of pipe Ø100 mm is welded to the top of the gas cylinder, having previously cut a hole of a suitable diameter. The inner surface of the smoke pipe is cleaned of scale to avoid soot deposition. 
The chimney is made from a stainless sandwich pipe, assembled from the necessary elements. It can be brought out both through the ceilings and through the wall. 
Video: drip-type mini-oven
Video: Inferno oven, part 1 and part 2
Ignition and operation
Lighting up a cold furnace at work is not an easy task. Oil vapors only burn when heated. Therefore, you have to ignite it with the help of other flammable liquids - gasoline, alcohol. They are poured in a thin layer on top of the oil in a pan and set on fire.
When burning, they heat the upper layer of waste, the oil begins to evaporate, and the furnace starts in operating mode. After this, open the valve on the oil supply hose and adjust its flow into the furnace. To stop the furnace, simply close the valve. The fuel supply will stop and as soon as the oil in the pan burns out, the stove will go out.
Cleaning the stove from soot and soot is done using metal or small gravel, throwing it into the chimney. Passing along the walls of the chimney, the gravel knocks off the soot, and it falls inside the combustion chamber. Open the door and sweep away the soot with a brush. Then they take out the pan, clean out sediment and fallen soot, gravel and other contaminants from it.
At correct operation and compliance with fire safety, a stove made from a gas cylinder can serve for many years. It is not recommended to install it in a residential area due to unpleasant odor, accompanying the combustion of waste, but it can be installed in the boiler room and. In this case, a drip-type stove can be used to heat a private house.
Waste is a cheap fuel that can be used to operate the furnace. Used motor, industrial and transmission oil is available in large quantities at motor transport enterprises and service stations. Instead of recycling, used oil can be reused, which will save a considerable amount of money. The heat transfer from waste oil is equivalent to a 15 kW electric heater. Fuel consumption is 0.5-2 liters per hour. However, there are also some difficulties here. You will learn more about them, as well as how to make a furnace yourself during testing, from the article.
Pros and cons of using used oil
Recycling furnaces adopt the principle of direct heating of air, and as a result of this use of waste oil, garages, greenhouses, and workshops can be heated. It is best to use such stoves at car services, because there is no need to look for fuel. It is already at hand in large quantities.
Advantages
- There is no burning or soot when oil burns
- ease of operation
- fire safety (used oil itself does not burn, only its vapors burn)
Flaws Use of waste oil:
- used unrefined oil from technical services is not suitable for boilers because it contains many impurities, water, alcohols, etc.. The use of such unrefined oil will lead to clogging of the filter, injectors, and even may explode in the fuel heating unit. Therefore, used oil needs to be cleaned and filtered, which is impossible to do at home. Prepared, purified waste oil costs approximately 12 rubles per liter (diesel fuel costs from 28.4 rubles per liter).
- any car service center and state-owned motor transport enterprise are required to enter into contracts with companies involved in the disposal of used oil. That is, they pay money in order to get rid of it, then, accordingly, they will not just give out used oil left and right.
- used oil cannot be kept in the cold. It will freeze outside, so it is necessary to either store the oil in a heated room or bury the barrel to the freezing depth of the ground.
Types of furnaces in production
The most popular waste oil furnaces are pyrolysis furnaces and turbo burners. In pyrolysis furnaces, used oil is heated when there is a lack of oxygen in the first chamber, where the oil decomposes. The decomposition products burn in the second chamber with a sufficient amount of oxygen, releasing a large amount of heat. The pyrolysis temperature can be changed by reducing or increasing the air supply to the pyrolysis chamber. The main disadvantage of such a furnace is the need for regular cleaning of fractions accumulating in the chamber, as well as the impossibility of automatically maintaining a certain temperature.
Turbo burners operate on the principle of diesel engines. The oil is sprayed into the chamber and the oil vapor begins to burn. The disadvantage of this type of oven is the high sensitivity to the quality of the oil, as well as the need to heat it before use.
Based on the type of design, waste furnaces are divided into furnaces made from a gas cylinder, designs with pressurization, and models with drip fuel supply.
Furnace using a gas cylinder
Materials and tools for making a stove
The easiest way to make a furnace is from used gas, oxygen or carbon balloon. The cylinders have good wall thickness, thanks to which such a stove will last for many years. A heating unit from one cylinder can heat a room up to 90 m2. This design can also be converted for water heating. A stove from a cylinder will not require forced air supply, and the oil will flow by gravity. To prevent the cylinder from heating up to fire-hazardous temperatures, it is necessary to set the height of the unit contour in accordance with the height of the combustion source inside the device. To make a furnace from a used cylinder it is necessary purchase:
- chimney pipes an internal diameter of at least 10 cm, a wall thickness of no more than 2 mm and a length of at least 4 m;
- fuel tank with a volume of 8−15 liters;
- burner pipes;
- welding machine and electrodes;
- Bulgarian;
- file;
- steel corners;
- drill and set of drills;
- level and roulette.
Manufacturing technology
Take a used 50 liter seamless cylinder up to 1.5 cm thick. If the walls are thicker, the bottle will not be sufficiently heated from the inside, and the oil vapor will not evaporate. The boiling point of oil is approximately 300 0 C, so the chamber will be above 600 0 C. Then you need to get rid of the unpleasant smell of odorant (gas to detect leaks) in the gas cylinder. To do this, condensate is drained outside and washed several times with water. Then the balloon filled to the top with water, placed vertically in a special tray or buried to a stable position in the ground.
Bulgarian the top of the cylinder is cut off. After the first cut, water begins to flow into the pan or onto the ground. When the water has drained, you can continue cutting the top. Most of the bottom will serve as a chamber, and the cut off top with a valve will become the oven lid.
We weld steel corners to the bottom of the cylinder using a welding machine. 20 cm “legs” for the stove. Then the balloon is placed on its “legs”. In the upper part of the sawn-off lower half of the cylinder, we retreat 10-15 cm from above and, using welding, cut a hole for the main exhaust pipe along the diameter of the pipe.
As a hood you need to choose thin-walled chimney pipe with a diameter of at least 10 cm and a length of at least 4 m. We insert it into the hole made, hold it strictly vertically and weld it. You also need to make a small hole in the chimney pipe, covered with a plate. With its help you can regulate the air supply.
ATTENTION! The chimney must be straight and vertical. No tilts or angles! The length of the chimney pipe should not be less than 4 m.
We step back 10 cm from the welding site and do welding machine a small hole with a diameter of 2-3 mm. After 5 mm up we make another hole. In the same way we make 10 similar holes, the last one should be at a height of 50 cm from the welding site.
A hole is made in the same pipe at a height of one meter from the floor for new pipe with a diameter of 5−8 cm and a length of 2−4 m. The pipe is inserted parallel to the floor and is welded by welding.
A hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm is cut in the cut off upper part of the cylinder. Recycled oil will be poured into it.
ATTENTION! Under no circumstances should you pour unrefined oil into such a structure. It may contain water or alcohols, and if the temperature rises, an explosion and fire may occur. If all this happens in the garage, the consequences can be catastrophic!
In the upper removable part of the cylinder you can connect the “tray”, on which you can heat a mug of water or porridge. To do this, a square or rectangle is cut out of a steel sheet small size and welded to the lid. Or it can be installed on a pipe that is parallel to the floor.
Oven operation
Used oil is poured for 2/3 cylinder. Then you need to light a sheet of paper, place it on top of the oil and close the oven lid.
After a certain time, the temperature inside the oven will begin to rise, the oil will evaporate and spontaneous combustion of oil vapors.
ATTENTION! Do not add oil to a working oven. Also, gasoline and kerosene cannot be used as fuel.
After finishing work and cooling the oven, you need to empty it of its contents. Clean the upper removable part from accumulated soot by tapping the lid on the cylinder.
Materials and tools
Very popular among craftsmen among the people are the designs of waste oil furnaces made made of steel sheets. This stove has compact dimensions (70/50/35 cm without chimney), weighs 27 kg, heating can be connected to it, it can be used in cold weather, and the upper part of the stove can be used for cooking. To make such a stove we will need:
- steel sheet 4 mm thick
- steel sheet 6 mm thick
- Bulgarian
- file
- welding machine and electrodes
- a pipe with an internal diameter of 10 cm, a length of at least 4 m and a wall thickness of 4-5 mm for the chimney
- steel corners 20 cm high 4 pieces as legs for the stove
- drawing
- level and tape measure
- hammer
- burner tubes made of steel, copper or painted sheet metal
Stages of manufacturing a furnace from steel sheets
First, let's print it out. drawing of the future furnace with details drawn on it.
Operation of the furnace during mining
If desired, you can give the stove an aesthetic appearance. For this we do special paint: V liter jar pour half a liter of liquid glass, 200 grams of aluminum powder and 20 grams of chalk. The jar is closed with a lid and shaken vigorously. With this mixture using a regular brush the stove is being painted. The resulting mixture can be used to paint three stoves, so the amount of ingredients can be halved.
To use the furnace during mining, you must comply with certain precautionary measures.
- don't put in a draft
- the stove cannot be placed near flammable objects
- there should be half a meter around the stove free space
- must not be allowed so that water gets into the oil, otherwise boiling oil will begin to splash out through the holes in the pipe
- attentively check the chimney for leaks
- use as fuel only technical oil
The oven heats up to operating condition in 5 minutes. To do this you need to fill 2/3 fuel tank and add a little gasoline and solvent (20-30 grams) on top. On a long wire you need to make a burning wick and through the hole for pouring oil set fire to gasoline. It will help the oil warm up to the required temperature so that the vapors begin to evaporate and ignite. After this, a stable column of flame feeds on oxygen is formed in the pipe with holes. The intensity of the flame can be adjusted using a blower hole into which oil is poured.
ATTENTION! Do not leave the oven running unattended!
Video review of a waste oil furnace
You can heat all kinds of technical premises, private garages, and small auto repair shops using various units. If desired, you can actually make the simplest design for heating non-residential objects yourself, using an old gas cylinder.
Gas cylinder stove - simple and effective
Nowadays, non-standard heating devices made by hand are used by many home craftsmen. One of the most interesting, easy to manufacture, reliable and cheap to operate is a homemade unit that uses waste oil as fuel. It can be built literally in a couple of hours from a gas cylinder. This boiler has a simple design and operating principle.
The exhaust stove, constructed from a gas cylinder, has two compartments. They burn fuel. Moreover, this process is performed twice. First, direct combustion of waste oil is observed (in the first compartment). This leads to the appearance of flammable mixture vapors. They go to the second compartment of the homemade boiler. There they combine with air, resulting in a highly concentrated flammable composition. When it is burned, a huge amount of heat is generated, which can heat a fairly large area of the room.
Gas cylinder units have many advantages. The cost of their assembly and operation is minimal. You can use any old gas cylinder that has been lying around somewhere in the garage for decades. And it’s easy to purchase the work at your nearest car service center. It costs a penny. The main thing here is not to use overly contaminated oil, since in this case the efficiency of the stove will decrease and the complexity of its maintenance (cleaning) will increase.
Other advantages of waste boilers:
- Trouble-free design. In the finished unit, in fact, there is nothing to break.
- Full autonomy. No need to connect the oven to electrical network or other energy sources.
- Low fuel consumption. A unit made from a 50-liter cylinder consumes no more than 2 liters of waste oil per hour.
- No soot, no burning, no unpleasant odor during operation of the device.
- Versatility. The stoves we are interested in are suitable for any non-residential premises, be it a car garage, household or production room, private greenhouse or greenhouse.
It is also important that the stove from the cylinder stops working immediately after the fuel is burned (the supply to the combustion compartment is stopped).
Disadvantages of units during development - important to know!
We talked in detail about the advantages of using homemade boilers that operate on waste oil. Let’s not forget to talk about the disadvantages of such structures. First of all, they are considered a fire hazard. Cylinder stoves have open holes through which fire can spread throughout the heated object in a matter of seconds. This fact necessitates constant monitoring of the unit’s operation. Throwing it unattended when the waste is fed into the furnace is strictly prohibited.
The next disadvantage of the design is objectively strong noise. The unit is really loud. Not every person is ready to endure such inconveniences. Also, after each use of the oven, combustion chambers have to be cleaned. A similar procedure must be performed with the chimney. It is an essential part of a homemade waste oil boiler. The chimney, by the way, has to be made quite high (at least 4 m). If you build a smaller smoke duct, there is a risk of poisoning carbon monoxide increases several times.
Oil intended for combustion in a furnace must be stored under special conditions. It should not be left in direct sunlight. It is also prohibited to store it in negative temperatures. The mining freezes even with minor minuses and becomes absolutely useless. Once defrosted, it cannot be used as fuel.
Another serious drawback of the described stoves is associated with oil. The waste must be cleaned. If you use unrefined oil, the unit's nozzles will quickly become clogged. This may well cause the cylinder to explode. Some home craftsmen say that their homemade heating boilers run on untreated waste. Perhaps the unit will be able to heat the room using such oil. But the effectiveness of its work, believe me, will be minimal.
Elements of a simple homemade stove - what will we make it from?
All drawings that can be used for testing are approximately the same. Below we show a diagram of a simple heating unit. It is for this that we will make a homemade device.
The drawing shows all the elements of our boiler. The basis of the design is a gas cylinder (position 1). The oven is also supplied with:
- Perforated pipe (2). It functions as a device for removing combustion gases. The thickness of the pipe walls should be 4–5 mm, the cross-section should be 10 cm.
- Another steel pipe (3) with the parameters indicated above. It plays the role of a heat exchanger.
- A steel sheet (4), which serves as a partition between two compartments of the structure (in one the oil burns, in the second it evaporates).
- Metal visor (5). It is best to make it from 4 mm thick steel. The visor provides maximum efficiency pipe heating.
- Evaporator bowl (6). This element is easiest to make from a brake disc from any passenger car.
- Half-inch water pipe(8). It supplies used oil to the combustion chamber. This process is controlled by a plumbing ball valve (9), used as a valve.
- Oil tank (11). It is a special container for storing fuel. It is advisable to fit any unnecessary cylinder that is equipped with a built-in needle valve under the tank.
The furnace design also includes a duct fan (13), a connecting element - a coupling (7), an air swirler (12), welded from equal-flange angles (shelf width - 5 cm) and a device for supplying fuel (10). As the latter, it is allowed to use a suitable (flexible) pipe made of fire-resistant material or a durable hose.
We build a boiler from a 50 liter cylinder - any craftsman can do it!
We prepare everything necessary details and we begin assembling the stove for testing. Before starting the main work, you should completely empty the cylinder of condensate and gas residues in it. Advice. It is easy to check the quality of the work performed. Coat the valve outlet (the hole at the end of it) with concentrated dishwashing liquid, or regular soap. Open the faucet. If there is no condensate or gas left in the cylinder, foam bubbles will not appear at the outlet. This means you did everything right.
We remove the valve from the cylinder. If you have a gas container with a non-removable tap, you will have to tinker. Use an electric drill to drill a hole in the bottom. And then unscrew the valve. Note! Experts advise performing this operation very carefully. Even if you are sure that all the flammable composition has left the cylinder, there is still some possibility of the container exploding. Do not apply excessive force to the power tool. Even better, water the drill with ordinary water while making a hole in the bottom. Then the risk of explosion will be zero. After dismantling the valve, fill the bottle with water to the top and wait a couple of minutes until it all comes out.
Now we cut out two windows on the gas cylinder. The height of the first (lower) is 20 cm, the second (upper) is 40. The width of the openings is a third of the cross-section of the cylinder used. There should be a jumper between the cut windows. Its height is 5–7 cm. We have a full-fledged compartment for burning fuel. By the way, you can even put coal and firewood in it if you wish.
The next step is to make a device that will separate the heat exchanger from the oil combustion chamber. We will make the separator from a steel sheet 4 mm thick. We cut out a circle from it with a diameter corresponding to the cross-section of a 50-liter gas container. That's not all. In the central part of the completed workpiece, we again cut out a circle (necessary for installing the burner). Its diameter is 10 cm.
The burner itself is made from a pipe with a height of 20 and a cross-section of 10 mm. The finished product will need to be perforated - drill several 1.5–2 cm holes. All burrs must be removed from the latter. If cleaning is not done, soot will constantly settle on the holes during operation of the stove. This will cause a narrowing of their cross-section, which over time will lead to a significant decrease in the efficiency of the home-made heating unit.
We put a membrane on the burner made according to all the rules. Weld the last one strictly in the center. Then install the entire workpiece into the cylinder and securely connect it by welding around the perimeter. Advice. The pipe can be welded to the bottom of the chamber divider. Then it will be possible to load special granules and briquettes into the stove, as well as sawdust and other solid fuel.
The second part of the work - we bring the heating device to mind
We make the evaporator bowl from a brake disc or from any metal product with high heat resistance. Choose a material that is not afraid elevated temperatures and their sharp changes. After this, weld the lid and bottom. Do not forget to leave an opening into which the mining will be poured. It is advisable to improve this part of the oven a little. Simplifying the fuel filling process is easy. It is enough to weld a short tube to the lid at a 40-degree angle, and then cut off the end tubular product to get a unique nose. It will be much easier to fill through it.
If you install a ball valve on the pipe, the unit will become much safer to operate. If any problems arise with the tank, you can quickly shut off the supply of used oil.
We construct the heat exchanger from a 10-centimeter pipe. To the body heating device place it clearly horizontally. It is recommended to additionally mount a metal screen at the end of the heat exchanger (we weld a sheet of steel to the pipe). Due to this device, the heating rate of the system and its beneficial effect will significantly increase.
The oven is ready. You just need to connect the chimney to it. We take a pipe 4–6 m long. In its lower part we cut a hole with a cross-section of about 6 cm. We weld a piece (2–2.5 m) of another pipe to it. It is parallel to the floor surface. All that remains is to weld the vertical part of the chimney, mounted outside the room, to a short pipe.
Advice. Make another 6–7 cm hole on the short chimney pipe and cover it with a metal plate. This simple device will allow you to adjust the intensity with which air will enter the oven. And this, in turn, will make it possible to regulate the combustion rate of the waste. We also need to weld the iron legs to the bottom of the stove we made. They are easy to make from metal corners.
Features of operating cylinder furnaces during mining – safety first!
We have already noted that the structure we are interested in, used for heating non-residential objects, belongs to the group of fire hazardous equipment. If you do not want to encounter serious problems when using a homemade boiler during mining, adhere to the following rules:
- There should be no drafts in the room where the unit is located. Wind freely moving around the object can cause fire to escape from the stove through the existing openings.
- A stationary gas cylinder boiler must be installed exclusively on metal plates, concrete or cement base.
- After use, the oven must be cleaned. The cylinder itself should be cleaned after each heating session. Remove soot and soot from the chimney at least once every 5–7 days. If the stove is actively used every day, the smoke exhaust duct also needs to be cleaned daily.
- All structures, products, materials, objects that are prone to rapid ignition must be located at a distance of at least 4–5 m from the stove.
Last recommendation. Do not fill the combustion compartment full of used oil. The maximum permissible filling of this chamber is 2/3 of its volume. If used correctly, the exhaust unit, made from a gas cylinder, will serve you for a long time and efficiently.
