During installation vinyl siding The main mistake that entails unpleasant consequences during the operation of the coating is non-compliance with installation technology.
The most common mistake is to rigidly fasten the panels with nails hammered to capacity, or to clamp the siding between two different additional elements. wall panels(for example, between the inner and outer corner). Such mistakes by installers can be easily identified visually. Vinyl lining, which acts as a façade cladding, is deformed, forming waves.
Rigid fastening makes it impossible for siding to respond to temperature changes without compromising the appearance of the building, expanding when warming and significantly decreasing in size when sub-zero temperatures. Vinyl siding panels have a coefficient of thermal expansion (elongation). For products from different manufacturers, this value may be different. But, in any case, its value should be within established standards certification for this cladding material.
When installing vinyl siding, Euromet specialists recommend taking into account the ability of the material to change its dimensions under the influence of temperature changes, leaving a gap between the joining elements and panels, the average value of which is 6 mm. Such a gap must be left in case of joining with platbands, corners, H-profiles and other elements that form junctions at an angle to the ends of the panels or perpendicular to them.
If the panels are overlapped and it is not intended to use an H-profile for their joining, then the distance between the locking parts of the panels should not be less than 6 mm. This is done so that when heated, the panels have the ability to elongate without losing their shape. Otherwise, as the temperature rises environment the siding will deform, forming a wave, as the locking parts rest against one another.
A similar negative effect can be obtained in the case of rigid fastening of vinyl siding panels using nails driven in all the way. The only difference is that the waves will be more frequent and smaller, as each panel will “play” between the attachment points.
To properly fasten a vinyl siding panel, it is necessary to leave a gap of about one and a half millimeters between the head of a galvanized nail or self-tapping screw and the panel itself. This will provide the panel with the ability to expand/contract along its length during temperature changes.
Fastening siding with nails, driving them directly into the panels, is allowed only if other methods of fixing the material are not possible.
The only option for such fastening is given in the installation instructions for vinyl siding. But in the case when you fasten a panel with nails, you should not assume that this fastening is strong, reliable and correct. The panel will “drive” sooner or later anyway. And you cannot predict how serious the deformation of the coating will be. Therefore, it is necessary to consider all possibilities for attaching siding without fixing it using nails driven into the panel itself before proceeding with installation.
The photo below demonstrates fixing the j-chamfer to the end board using standard fasteners.
This method is wrong. The J-bevel should be secured into the groove of the finishing strip with the open edge. In this case, fixing the element with self-tapping screws or nails passing through is not necessary. To ensure reliable adhesion between the final strip and the j-chamfer, it is recommended to extrude along its perimeter open end special “ears”, using a punch or semi-punch as a tool, used when installing vinyl siding. The resulting “ears” are designed to snap into the groove of the final j-chamfer strip. In this way, you can get a fairly rigid mount. Having the possibility of temperature play, with such fastening it is also able to effectively resist significant wind loads.
The presence of a rich assortment in construction stores makes the choice somewhat difficult finishing panels. Before making a choice in favor of a specific siding, you should decide what needs to be obtained as a result of cladding the façade and basement parts. This can be a coating that will look like new for many years and will not require additional investment.
It is possible to create siding that will look as natural as possible, or, on the contrary, you can create a modern and contemporary design. Besides, quality material provides an enhanced option for protecting the facade in case of exposure to extreme climatic factors.
Basic information
The creation of siding is based on the use of a compound consisting of a vinyl mass with the addition of dyes and stabilizers. color range and other additives based on plasticizer technology. The features of the compound formulation for creating the outer and inner layers of siding panels differ, which is due to the need to solve different technology problems.
There are several universal tips from experts that will help you complete installation easily and correctly:
- regardless of what type of siding panels is chosen for finishing, fasteners should be used in the form of self-tapping screws or special roofing nails made from stainless and galvanized steel or aluminum;
- the diameter of the head of fasteners must be at least 8 mm;
- cladding of wooden buildings should not be carried out earlier than 12 months after construction.
The correct choice of option must be made taking into account such determining factors as operating conditions and climatic features terrain.
Errors when installing siding (video)
What are construction crews doing wrong when installing siding? What might even an experienced installer not know? And how to properly cover a house with siding? TOP 10 mistakes when installing siding, what they can lead to, and how to do it correctly.
Error 1: Installers screw the screws all the way into the perforation
What does this mean?
A tightly screwed self-tapping screw (or nailed in) will prevent possible expansion (compression) of the material during temperature fluctuations. This can lead to deformation of the panels. If the siding “leads”, waves appear on it, in most cases this is due to a violation of this rule.
Which is correct?
The length of the siding perforation is not random: it corresponds to the coefficient of linear expansion of the panel. Therefore, when screwing in a self-tapping screw, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm. Experienced installers say this: all the way and one turn back.
Error 2: Installers do not screw the screw into the center of the perforation
What does this mean?
When the material contracts and expands, the panel may move slightly. The absence of perforation on one side or the other will not allow it to do this. This can also cause the panels to warp.
Mistake 3: Installers over-tighten panels during installation
What does this mean?
Due to a sharp drop in temperature, the panels may become unfastened.
Which is correct?
The panels must be installed without tension. This way, if the temperature drops sharply, the locks will not come loose. By the way, the Alta-Profile plastic facade fastening system will help you comply with this rule, which will be a good help for inexperienced installers.
Mistake 4: Installers do not use sheathing
What does this mean?
Installing siding without sheathing can lead to damage to the facade, mold and mildew. Because it's perfect smooth walls does not happen, the absence of lathing will lead to the siding being installed unevenly, because one of the functions of the lathing is to level the facade.
Which is correct?
Siding refers to ventilated facades. Air circulation underneath prevents the formation of mold and fungi and the accumulation of moisture. Therefore, when installing siding, be sure to use sheathing - wooden, metal or plastic. Only in this case the facade of the house will be protected.
Mistake 5: Installers use non-galvanized screws (nails)
What does this mean?
Fasteners must not be subject to corrosion. If you do not adhere to this rule, then over time rusty stains will appear at the fastening site, which will ruin appearance finishing.
Which is correct?
For installation of siding, only galvanized fasteners are used - they significantly extend the life of your facade.
Mistake 6: Installers install siding panels close to the strips
What does this mean?
When siding panels are tightly mounted to the planks, they can “lead”, since in this case there is no space left for narrowing and expansion.
Which is correct?
Correct installation of siding requires a ventilated gap between the panels and slats of 0.5-1 cm. If installation is carried out in winter, the gap should be larger, since in summer the panel will expand slightly when heated (and vice versa).
Mistake 7: Installers do not use all the strips or the wrong ones
What does this mean?
Often the length of the building is greater than the length of the siding panel. In such cases, it is recommended to use a connecting strip to connect the panels along their length. In this case, the panels are mounted end to end. But there is another common method - installing overlapping panels. Then the connecting strip is not used. This is acceptable, but after a few years a gap may appear between the panels mounted overlapping. If you look at the wall at an angle, it will be very visible.
Another common mistake is installing siding without using a finishing strip. Instead, the last panel is simply nailed down. It seems that since it is high up and not visible, you can do without it. However, in reality, this can lead to deformation of the panel, it will “lead”, which, in turn, can cause the panel to collapse during frosts. Another unpleasant consequence is the penetration of moisture under the facade with the further formation of mold and fungi on the surface of the walls of the building.
An example of improper use of strips can also be the design of a window using J-trim strips, when installers cover the slope with siding. This turns out to be much more expensive: where 1 near-window strip is sufficient, 2 J-trim strips will be required. And, of course, in most cases, improper use of planks affects the aesthetic appearance of the building.
Error 8: Installers screw the self-tapping screw into the “body” of the panel
What does this mean?
When a self-tapping screw is screwed into the “body” of the panel, the material from which it is made cannot expand freely with temperature fluctuations. This leads to deformation. The appearance of the building facade deteriorates and the service life of the siding is significantly reduced.
Which is correct?
Self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the perforation exactly as much as it is designed. If you need to fix the panel in a place where perforation is not provided, use a special siding punch, which is sold in many stores. You can try to make a hole similar to a perforated radio using improvised means.
Error 9: Installers do not take into account temperature and climatic conditions during installation
What does this mean?
As temperatures fluctuate, the dimensions of the siding will change. If this is not taken into account during installation, the siding may “come out” of the planks or, conversely, rest against them so much that the panel “leads.”
Which is correct?
Installing siding when negative temperatures, installers must understand that the panels are in a compressed state; in the summer they will expand. Therefore, the gap between the slats should be slightly larger than when installing in the warm season. When installing siding in the summer, you need to understand that in winter the panels will shrink; you cannot leave a large gap.
Error 10: Installers incorrectly calculate the required number of panels and additional materials
What does this mean?
Incorrect calculations can lead to irrational use of materials, a large number sawn-off shotguns You will either have to go to the market several times for the missing materials, or overpay for “spare” (read “extra”) panels and elements.
Which is correct?
To calculate the required number of panels, you need to know the area of the entire surface to be finished. To do this, we will divide the house (in the part that will be covered with siding) into simple geometric figures and their combinations. As a rule, a triangle and a rectangle are sufficient. Then you just need to calculate their areas. Windows and doors are usually not deducted from wall area unless they are very large (such as garage doors or sliding glass doors). By adding up the areas of all sections of the building and adding another 10% for fitting and possible mistakes, we obtain the total area of the surface to be finished. The useful area of one Alta Siding and Canada Plus siding panel is 0.84 sq.m. Based on these calculations, you can calculate the number of siding panels.
Basic rules for installing Deuke vinyl siding
The most a big problem that is encountered when using such coatings is deformation, which is usually called warping (Fig. 11). There are two reasons for this phenomenon. The first is in the properties of polyvinyl chloride itself, which, like other plastics, changes its linear dimensions when the ambient temperature changes.
In Russian conditions, a standard three-meter panel is lengthened by 5 mm in the summer, and shortened by the same amount in the winter cold. If special measures are not taken, a change in the geometry of the wall is inevitable. It is important not to apply force to the panels after connecting the lock. Otherwise, you can create excessive tension, which will not allow you to compensate for thermal expansion, which means that the panel will bend, thereby disturbing the appearance of the building. The second reason for warping, according to Stroymet specialists, is poorly dried wooden sheathing slats. If you decide to use just such a material, it must be thoroughly dried before installation.
Rice. 11. Warping of Docke siding due to thermal expansion (violation of installation rules)
Fastening is carried out only with special screws or nails. Their difference from conventional ones is in corrosion resistance, for which these elements are either made of stainless aluminum alloys or protected with a layer of zinc. Only in this way can the full service life of the siding itself be guaranteed (for Deke this is 50 years).
When choosing fasteners, you need to pay attention to the lengths of the screws, which are screwed into the sheathing by at least 35 mm. The cap should prevent the siding from slipping, for which its diameter is chosen to be at least 8 mm (Fig. 12).
Since the change in the length of the siding due to thermal expansion is the same in all directions, try to screw the screw or drive the nail exactly in the center of the mounting hole. In this case, there should be a distance (approximately 1 mm) between the head and the surface of the vinyl, which serves for the free sliding of the panel while changing its length. When attaching vertical panels, the first self-tapping screw is screwed along the upper edge of the upper hole, the rest - in the center.
Rice. 12. Rules for fastening vinyl Docke panels
The main mistakes when installing vinyl siding Deke
Applying excessive force when attaching the lock |
The self-tapping screw is screwed into the vinyl, and not into a special hole |
No gap between surface and cap |
Gap too big |
Skewed fastening screw or nail |
Nail deformation |
|
Proper installation of Docke vinyl siding
Do not neglect such “little things” as a crooked nail or a deformed self-tapping screw. Even a slight deviation from a strictly perpendicular direction can cause tension in the siding and, as a result, interfere with its normal thermal expansion.
Compensation for the consequences of such expansion is provided in siding locks, in which the panels move freely in the desired direction. Of course, in order to drive a nail without deformation, and even to ensure the required gap between its head and the surface, you need skill. If you don’t have such a skill, it’s better not to take risks and use self-tapping screws. A simple technique is used. First, the screw is screwed in until the head touches the surface, and then turned out one turn. The maximum fastening pitch is 40–45 cm for panels and ranges from 20–25 cm for accessories.
Never drive nails or screws directly through vinyl! If you want to drive a nail beyond the end of the punched hole on the nail strip, you need to widen it, which is most easily done with a regular hammer drill. When the strip is missing (for example, when cutting siding), a new hole is punched using the same hammer drill.
In places where the winds are strong, special damping nylon washers are placed under the heads of the screws (Fig. 13).
Note! At Stroymet, along with modern facade materials, you can also buy roofing materials High Quality- , and much more.
Rice. 13. Fastening Docke siding in strong winds
In practice, when laying, you have to join several sequential elements. In this case, thermal clearances must be provided (Fig. 14). This technique allows you to avoid warping, which occurs at the moment when, with increasing temperature, the expanding lamellas rest against each other at the junction. As it cools, shortening occurs and the siding may slip out of the joint.
In principle, vinyl siding can be installed in any weather and at any time of the year. Stroymet specialists remind you that at temperatures below -10°C, installation should be carried out with extreme caution, since in frost there is a high probability of damage to elements. It’s even better to postpone installation for more favorable time. In any case, you should look at the thermometer, and if its readings are extreme, make adjustments when forming thermal gaps, adjusting their size in the desired direction.
It is also important to follow the order in which the screws are installed. At horizontal position elements, self-tapping screws (or nails) are always wrapped or driven in from the middle, moving evenly towards the edges. With vertical siding, the starting point is the highest point. When the panel is installed, you need to check that it is tightened correctly. To do this, move the horizontal panel left and right (vertical, respectively, up and down). If movement is free, everything is done correctly. If something slows down, there are two reasons. The first is that the screws are overtightened, the second is that there is no thermal gap or one of the nails is not driven in the center.
Let us once again recall the importance of the temperature gap, which is made not only in linear sections, but also at corners. The gap value can either be selected from a table or calculated. Thus, for Docke vinyl siding, when the temperature changes by 10°C, the linear elongation is 0.5 mm per meter of length. To calculate the thermal gap, you need to take the difference between the current temperature and the maximum possible, round this value to the nearest 10 degrees, and then perform the calculations. For example, when installing a 3-meter panel at an air temperature of +20°C, and a limit value of +50°C, the panel will lengthen by 4.5 mm (or approximately 2.5 mm in each direction).
Be sure to remember that tables and instructions always give the temperature gap value for one end of the panel. This means that when connecting two elements along the length, you need to use double the table value. It's easy to remember: two ends, two gaps. You need to be especially careful when installing Deke vertical siding. The fact is that here everything depends on which hole the first nail was driven into, on which the siding “hangs.” In practice, this is done simply: since the vertical panel expands 2/3 down, a double gap is made in this direction.
Rice. 14. The size of the thermal gap on standard cladding units: a – the junction of a horizontal panel with a J-profile, an external or internal vertical corner, etc.; b – overlap joint; c – jointing of horizontal siding using an H-profile, a pair of J-profiles, etc.; d – articulation of hidden elements, in particular the starting strip; d – articulation of a vertical element with a horizontal one.
Dimensions highlighted in color indicate the average elongation of the siding (the amount of overlap is highlighted in green). Black numbers are the actual amount of elongation of the siding during its thermal expansion. When laying siding, thermal clearances should be made following the values that are highlighted in colored font.
When crossing the profile, the nail strips should not rest against it. Usually, to prevent this, the slats are trimmed. The second option is to install them on top of another nail strip, then when making an overlap joint, the vinyl will slide safely over the vinyl. If the second option is chosen, you should make sure that free sliding is not interfered with by the screws that are screwed into the counter profile.
You cannot seal the siding at the junction with the gutter of the internal corner, as well as the external corner or J-profile. Sealing overlapping elements is not allowed, and the overlaps themselves must be changed, doing this at least every two rows. It is highly undesirable to place overlaps above or below window (door) openings.
If you plan to attach any external parts, you need to be sure that such elements do not interfere with the natural thermal expansion of the material. The same considerations apply to the placement of plumbing, water supply, drainage and communication pipes, lighting fixtures, alarm elements, etc. Correct solution– leave between the vinyl siding and additional element temperature gap.
Lastly, the most important thing. First, the starting panel must be installed perfectly level (horizontally or vertically). If this is not the case, the defect cannot be corrected and the error will be repeated in all subsequent elements. Engineers of the Stroymet company remind about simple rule: the step, or rather the height difference that is formed when the panels are joined, is made from the side opposite to the most frequent view of the facade.
