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Experienced gardeners There is often disagreement regarding the question “when and how to properly prune trees?” However, they are all unanimous that this procedure is extremely important for correct height fruit trees, optimal formation of their crown and trunk, increasing the ability to bear fruit and the quality of the harvest, as well as rejuvenation garden plants. It is also important to remove deformed, broken, dried out or diseased branches.

Tree pruning

When solving the problem of when to prune fruit trees, it is important to know that their first pruning is done during planting. permanent place growth of one- and two-year-old seedlings. About thirty to fifty percent of the crown of a planted specimen is cut off with pruning shears. The resulting cuts should be covered with garden varnish, and then wrapped with electrical tape. Instead of garden varnish, you can use oil paint as a putty.

Over the next three years, formative pruning is performed to create a proportional and reliable crown of the fruit tree. Our website contains a video on how to prune trees during this period, so that later the tree has a correctly formed crown, and its skeletal branches grow thick and do not interfere with each other. Also, the pruning procedure should ensure obtuse angle the growth of a tree's branches relative to its trunk.

If the question is when to prune trees in the garden and how often to do it, the answer is the following: young trees require annual formative pruning. During this procedure, it is recommended to cut off up to a third of the length of absolutely all strong shoots growing on skeletal branches and the trunk. It is advisable to leave three or four shoots on the branches young tree. The rest must be removed.

Problem, cuttings of old ones garden trees, is also completely solvable. They are pruned as needed. Old and diseased branches are definitely removed, as well as branches that have been damaged or deformed. Also, periodic thinning of the crown is recommended.

When is the best time to prune trees?

Questions: “Can trees be pruned in winter or summer?” — novice gardeners ask quite often. It is important to understand that in different time Every year it is necessary to carry out different tree pruning procedures. The main pruning is usually carried out after the cessation of severe frosts during fruit dormancy of the trees. It is advisable that it be done before the onset of spring. growing season. In warm regions it is performed until the end of February. If you lack the proper experience or doubt how to prune trees in the spring, for fear of cutting off healthy branches, confusing them with damaged ones, you can postpone the pruning procedure until May, when the buds begin to bloom. Formative pruning is also performed at the beginning of summer, while pruning trees in the fall is mainly done to rejuvenate the tree and encourage the growth of new shoots.

Of course, changeable weather does not always fit into the usual framework and presents us with surprises in the form of cold snaps or early thaws. Therefore, recommendations regarding timing should not be taken literally, but should be correlated with what is happening on the street with what is written. It is quite possible that it will be possible to fulfill what is prescribed for February only at the end of March - beginning of April.

Each region has its own time frame for when to prune fruit trees. For example, the northern ones will be noticeably behind the proposed schedule, while the southern ones may be ahead. Focus on the trees themselves, they are the best clues.

• January-February - during these months, apple trees are grown in the southern regions, while the middle zone is still wintering. Following apple and pear trees, stone fruit crops are pruned, as well as currant and gooseberry bushes.
• March – start of pruning in middle lane. If there is still snow, there is no need to rush - wait until it warms up.
• April – in April the weather usually improves even in northern regions, and work is in full swing in every garden. It's time to prune cherries, cherries, apricots - first of all, 5-year-old trees and berry gardens are pruned. It is important to get there before the buds open.
• May - this month only planted shrubs are pruned; adult apple and pear trees, if necessary, can be freed from excess shoots even during flowering. However, cuts with a diameter greater than 2 cm should be covered with garden varnish..
• June - this month the so-called “green” pruning is carried out, when fresh shoots are thinned out. In June, winegrowers pinch the grapes - removing the upper parts of the shoots to stop the growth of the vine and stimulate the appearance of side vines.
  
• July – “green” pruning of apple and pear trees is completed, at the removal sites large branches tops and wen break out.
• August - other than sanitary removal of branches, no work is expected. But strawberry lovers have something to sweat about this month.
• September-October - after harvesting, all broken branches are removed. In addition, at this time it is recommended to remove stems of blackberries and raspberries that do not bear fruit.
• November-December - in areas with harsh winters, gardeners take a break from any work, enjoying the harvest. In warmer climatic zones These months are suitable for pruning, but it is better to wait until spring.

Perhaps the most important rule for a gardener to follow is: do no harm! Indeed, inexperienced gardeners can greatly slow down the growth of a tree or get a meager harvest due to improper pruning. To prevent this from happening, listen not so much to the advice of experts broadcast from TV or computer screens, but to your inner voice - in pruning everything is logical and understandable if you look into it.

Young trees will begin to bear fruit much later if heavily pruned. Sometimes it is better to get rid of one large branch than to get rid of many small ones. The procedure is carried out annually, adhering to the same deadlines. Along with pruning, use various ways branch deviations - on more horizontal shoots, the harvest is usually stronger and ripens earlier.

The tree may need correct pruning in the fall for a number of reasons:

• Removing diseased or wind-damaged branches;
• Reducing the crown to renew branches and better air circulation;
• Reducing height;
• Removing interfering lower branches;
• Shaping for design solutions;
• Increased yield.

Once the decision to prune has been made, consider whether you should tackle the job yourself. If on your site a big tree, where you want to remove large branches at the top of the crown, it is best to hire professionals. In particular, pruning may require lifts and heavy chain saws. This is a job that should be left to trained and experienced professionals.

The timing of pruning in the garden always depends on the type and method used. Thus, it is produced at different times of the year, in any season, but preference is given to spring period, before the buds swell. Dead branches can and should be removed throughout the annual cycle.

Never compromise your personal safety when pruning.

Spring

Pruning to enhance growth is recommended in the spring. This is because nutrients are distributed from the roots and perennial parts to the younger parts of growth and fruiting. It is best to choose the period immediately before the start of sap flow, which will have a beneficial effect on pruning. Shrubs that bloom in spring should not be trimmed.

Autumn winter

Pruning in the autumn and winter seasons is often performed in areas where it is mostly warm and there are no severe frosts. Otherwise, there is a risk of damage to the bark and wood in the place where the cut was made due to extreme cold or sunburn.

When planning pruning, it is important to remember that the temperature should not fall below - 8 degrees. Pruning during this period minimizes sap loss and subsequent stress to the tree. This will also minimize the risk of fungal or insect infestation, as the fungus and insects will likely be dormant. Finally, in case deciduous trees, pruning after leaf fall will give you a better idea of ​​how the shape of the trunk will change. It is not recommended to prune fruit trees in the fall.

Summer

Gardeners rarely prefer summer pruning, since when the buds are swollen and the tree is blooming, the ringlets can be damaged, and in the summer the branches will have to be removed with the harvest. However, it makes sense during this period to start pinching shoots that do not require strong growth, as well as removing the tops that appeared after a large cut.

Trimming tools

Here are the main tools:

• Secateurs. The use of tools with a ratcheting mechanism is not recommended. It is best to choose a regular and convenient pruner.
• Garden hacksaw. This is a specialized hacksaw that tapers towards the end of its blade. The teeth are designed in such a way that they do not allow the hacksaw to become clogged with sawdust. It is not recommended to use a hacksaw. For comfortable work, purchase a tool according to the profile.
• Air pruner. This type of pruner is used for hard to reach areas of the tree. It is a bar on which a pruning shear is attached, driven by a lever and a rope.

It is necessary to monitor the condition of the instrument. To avoid damage to the trunk or bark, sharp blades must be used. Otherwise, there is a risk of surfaces becoming susceptible to contamination by harmful microorganisms. Tree diseases are easily spread by contaminated tools.

Therefore, after each pruning procedure, do not forget to disinfect your tools in a solution of chlorine and water in a ratio of 1/9, followed by cleaning with soapy water and then drying.

How to properly prune trees and shrubs in the garden?

common goal– cut off an unwanted branch, while keeping the trunk intact. The most common mistake is when a branch is cut too close or too far from the trunk. Or, by breaking the sequence, they damage the bark, especially when pruning large branches.

Depending on the purpose of the work being carried out, you will be able to determine which technology to use.

Cut to the bud

Using this pruning method, you can, for example, change the direction of branch growth depending on your needs. You need to choose a bud located on a one-year-old shoot that grows in the desired direction. This cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees to the branch.

The cutting blade of the pruning shears should be directed towards the part of the tree that will remain. Pruning is done by forming a slight angle so that the bud remains unharmed, but at the same time without forming a stump.

The kidney will dry out if it does not receive the necessary substances. This happens when a very sharp cut is made that hits the kidney. Here we need to remember that our goal is for the bud to form a shoot.

At the same time, if a stump is left, it may dry out, and the bud will never sprout a new shoot. Such a stump can only be left when pruning the bush.

Cut to ring

When using this method, the entire branch is cut off. Depending on the thickness, you can use pruning shears. To prevent a protruding stump from being left and at the same time a “cut” does not occur, a cut should be made along the outer surface of the ring. The rings are located at the junctions of the branches.

Side branch cut

If you want to leave a side branch and continue to grow in its direction, you need to cut off the unnecessary branch. It turns out that the cut in relation to the left branch will become its continuation.

How much to trim?

You should not cut off more than 25% of the tree's branches. When deciding how much to trim, you need to focus on the bare minimum.

Make sure living branches make up at least 2/3 of the tree's height. If you remove more than necessary, this will increase the risk of damage to the tree. Sometimes pruning is forced. For example, wind damage, height reduction due to power lines, municipal canopy raising requirements, etc. But even in these cases, trim as little as possible.

Care after pruning

Garden varnish, paints based on vegetable drying oil, petrolatum, etc. are suitable for coating cuts. Branches located on the periphery of the crown, the diameter of which is less than 2 cm, are not lubricated.

Try to monitor the condition of the tree in the future and treat the resulting wounds, if necessary. If you notice any peculiarities in how the tree reacts to pruning, try to apply the experience gained in further care.

Why do some gardeners’ apple trees produce large, tasty apples every year, while others’ tree yields decrease for unknown reasons, branches break, and apple trees die? To avoid such troubles, you need to learn how to properly care for your apple orchard, not forgetting to regularly trim the branches.

Do you know how prune an apple tree correctly, and what time of year is best to do this? Are you sure that you are forming the crown correctly? If not, our article contains basic recommendations on this topic, and the attached video clearly shows how to prune apple trees in the fall.

Depending on the age of the tree, pruning serves different purposes:

• formation of a beautiful crown of the correct shape;
• strengthening young branches;
• increasing the number of fruiting branches;
• ensuring good access to sunlight for apples;
• removing old branches to replace them with new ones;
• preparing the tree for winter.

Trimming old apple tree in most cases, it allows you to save it, and young trees grow and bear fruit better thanks to this procedure.

Video about pruning an apple tree

When to prune apple trees - in spring, summer or autumn?

Young trees are pruned every year in autumn and spring. Pruning apple trees in the spring is necessary to remove branches frozen in winter, to form the crown and to increase productivity. Spring pruning begins before the sap flows, until the buds appear. In late autumn, when the leaves have fallen, old, damaged, broken, rotten branches are pruned to prepare the tree for winter. In rare cases, apple trees are also pruned in the summer to ensure the best access of light to the fruits. Winter pruning of apple trees is easier to tolerate, since they are in a dormant state, but it can only be carried out in warm southern regions, otherwise the tree bark, which is fragile from frost, will be damaged.

Is it possible to prune an apple tree in the fall, after frosts? It’s better not to do this, otherwise the bark around the place where the branches were cut will freeze, and the wound will take a long time to heal. Try to complete all work on the apple tree before the first frost.

Young trees are pruned every year in autumn and spring

Held autumn pruning in the following way:

• First, large broken and dry branches are removed;
• the weakest branches are cut out from those that are located too close to each other;
• branches growing at an acute angle are cut off;
• all damage caused to apple trees during pruning is carefully covered with garden varnish or oil-based paint;
• cut branches are collected and burned.

Methods for pruning branches

There are three types of pruning of apple trees in the fall: weak, medium and strong. Light pruning done to young apple trees - new branches that have grown during the year are shortened by one quarter of the length. In the spring, fresh shoots will come from the pruned branches and a beautiful crown will form. Medium trim apply on 5-7 summer apple trees and on old trees also in order to increase the number of productive branches and crown formation. Stronger branches are cut to a third of their length. Heavy pruning necessary to thin out the branches so that the apples ripen better under the sun; for this, the branches are shortened by half.

There are three types of pruning of apple trees in autumn: weak, medium and strong.

A separate type of pruning apple trees - removing dried branches. It is important here not to make the mistake of cutting a branch right at the trunk of the apple tree, otherwise the dried twig will soon fall out of the tree and a hollow will form, which can ultimately lead to the death of the apple tree. Cut the branch down to the point where the first bud appears. Then use a thin saw with fine teeth to file the stump so that the undercut from the trunk goes towards the branch you are sawing. In this case, it is recommended to treat the cut area not with paint, but with garden varnish. If it rains after this treatment, do it again.

A separate type of pruning of apple trees is the removal of dried branches.

Young apple trees with thin branches are pruned with pruning shears, and stronger branches are cut down with a saw. The tool must be clean and very sharp, sharpened like a razor. Dull garden shears or a hacksaw will severely “fray” the bark, and the wound will take longer to heal. Only oil paint based on drying oil is suitable for processing; other types of paint will burn the bark like acid. Some gardeners use to treat wounds after pruning branches. disinfectant solution made of lime with copper sulfate in a ratio of 10:1. Please note that immediate processing is only necessary for old dry branches, and when pruning young branches you need wait at least a day, and then cover the cut with paint or varnish.

Video about autumn pruning of apple trees

Pruning of apple trees begins after planting in the first year in order to restore balance between the reduced root system and the spreading aboveground part tree, which will require more water and nutrients than the roots can provide. In the next 3-5 years, it is better not to prune young apple trees - only remove broken and dried branches. The shoots should be shortened if the tree grows upward too quickly.

The preferred time for pruning is late winter and early spring, before new growth begins. During this period, pruning is performed on a large number of garden plants, including fruit trees.

Tree pruning is necessary to maintain plant health, to give them strength and beauty. In fruit-bearing crops, this procedure helps to increase yield.

The basic rules for pruning any type of tree are: using clean and sharp tools, cutting under diseased areas of the tree, and timely processing of the cut.

There are 3 types of pruning:

1. Thinning. This pruning method is characterized by the removal of an entire branch. Its pruning is done where it branches off from a larger branch or trunk. This method is rarely used, since thinning does not stimulate growth and only reduces the weight of the plant. This method is suitable for decorative purposes so that the plant does not look too massive.
2. Non-selective pruning. Its essence is to cut the branch anywhere, which will stimulate the dormant buds to grow top shoots. This method helps to increase the density of the plant.
3. Selective pruning. According to it, pruning should be done to the nearest bud or side branch. The diameter of the remaining branch is equal to half the diameter of the removed shoot. This method reduces the height of the tree.

How to prune fruit trees correctly

My aunt was happy for many years bountiful harvest apples from your apple tree summer cottage. But time passed, and the harvest became smaller and smaller, until the tree stopped bearing fruit altogether. The aunt decided that climatic conditions were to blame, but the problem was different: she did not trim the branches of the tree.

By pruning the branches of fruit-bearing trees, you relieve the plant of the excess weight of the fruit and allow sunlight to penetrate into the center of the crown. The sun's rays and air penetrating into the center of the crown provide better circulation and prevent the plant from getting sick.

Tree pruning is distinguished by three types of crowns:

1. tiered with central conductor
2. changed-leader
3. cup-shaped

If the tree was not pruned before the fruit began to form, then the pruning will have to be more severe, cutting out and reducing the size of the branches. This is necessary to increase the yield of the tree and create a crown structure that will not bend or break under the weight of the crop.

Trees need to be pruned once a year. This way, the plant will not suffer from severe branch pruning after a longer period of time. It is possible to trim as many branches as the tree has grown over the past year.

Important! However, you need to remember that when cutting off old branches that have formed over the last year, the number of cut branches should not exceed 1/3 of all branches of the plant.

First of all, you should remove the old branches. If you are dealing with dwarf trees, then you should not get carried away with pruning branches in the same way as with ordinary trees. Trees more small size, than ordinary ones, are characterized by slower growth.

Some varieties of apple, pear and plum trees are distinguished by the formation of fruits on medium-sized branches, so if the crown has become too thick, you can safely trim off old and unproductive branches.

Watch the growth of horizontal branches, since branches that grow vertically, that is, upwards, give great growth, but at the same time their yield decreases.

If the branches, also directed vertically, grow downward, then their productivity will be low due to lack of sunlight. Therefore, you should cut off shoots that grow down and up, leaving horizontal ones.

For a more complete understanding of the tree pruning process, watch this tutorial video for beginners with step-by-step instructions:

How to prune apple and pear trees

It is necessary to trim the tree according to the layered type of crown. As it ages, the main shoot may lean over due to heavy fruit, preventing sunlight from reaching the lower branches. In this case, it is worth cutting out the top of the main shoot.

In this situation, sunlight will penetrate into the center of the crown, and new branches will grow upward, replacing the cut central trunk. Trim side branches as necessary to freely reach any part of the plant.

How to trim a plum

Since the plum tree is predominantly a bushy tree, it is not possible to form a plant with a central trunk from it. Another form of pruning is suitable here - cup-shaped.

If you have hybrids from Japan and America at your disposal, then you need to cut off more branches from them than from plum varieties from Europe. The top should be open for free access of sunlight to the lower branches. If the branches bend too much towards the ground, they should be shortened.

How to trim peach and apricot

Such fruit-bearing trees are characterized tall branches, so it is worth pruning from large quantities to improve yield quality criteria. To make it easier to work with these trees in the future, trim the top of the crown. Don't forget about branches that grow close to the ground.

After pruning is completed, do not get carried away with excessive fertilizing, as this will cause the tree to quickly grow new branches. Because of rapid growth branches in summer the tree may suffer winter time of the year.

How to prune cherry trees

In a newly planted cherry, a crown with a main conductor is created, which, in older plants, is removed, and the tiered type of crown is replaced by a modified leader crown.

Pruning is done in a similar way to pruning the branches of a peach, but not in such large quantities, otherwise in winter the tree will be subject to damage from the cold, which will certainly affect the life expectancy of the cherry.