Experienced gardeners know how tomato cultivation is organized in open ground. Tomatoes grow in almost every garden. It’s hard to imagine a private house or cottage without them. Tomatoes can be eaten fresh or stored for the winter by canning or freezing. What are the features of growing tomatoes in an open garden?

Growing tomatoes in open ground is quite common, since not everyone has greenhouses or greenhouses. Optimal time for planting tomato seedlings - late May or early June. Planting tomatoes in open ground is not very difficult. For this purpose, you can purchase ready-made adult plants or plant tomato seeds for open ground, purchased in a store or at the market.

To grow tomatoes, you must follow the following rules:

• select the optimal plant varieties;
• fertilize the land;
• provide tomatoes with sufficient insolation;
• provide proper care.

Some tomato varieties are not suitable for open ground. They will be subject to temperature changes and the yield will be low.

How to choose the right variety

Choosing a tomato variety for open ground is the most important task. There are low-growing and tall-growing varieties of tomatoes. For unprotected soil, the so-called determinate varieties tomatoes. Their growth is unlimited. Such tomatoes bloom constantly and are most suitable for growing outside greenhouses and greenhouses. Superdeterminate varieties are also distinguished.

Tomatoes for open ground are represented mainly by low-growing and early-ripening varieties. Those plants that mature quickly are smaller in size. The most commonly used varieties of tomatoes for open ground are:

• "Sultan";
• "Demidov";
• "Northern Beauty";
• "Snezhana"
• "Blagovest";
• "Eugenia";
• "Aurora";
• "Golden Queen";
• "Kemerovets";
• "Ballerina";
• "Uncle Styopa";
• "Scarlet Mustang";
• "Laura";
• "Siberian Trump";
• "Sensei".

These are the best varieties of tomatoes for open ground. Determinate varieties have the following properties:

• compact;
• give few stepchildren;
• quickly bear fruit;
• small height.

These tomatoes include varieties “Alpha”, “Pyshka”, “Stolypin”, “Aphrodite”, “Explosion”. Tall tomatoes are most often grown in greenhouses and greenhouses. When purchasing seedlings or seeds, you need to pay attention to the size, shape and weight of the fruit, and the timing of ripening. Some tomatoes are better suited for salads, while others are better suited for canning.

Preparation of the land plot

Not everyone knows how to grow tomatoes in open ground and get good harvest. Tomatoes like to grow in a sunny area, so it is not advisable to plant them in the shade behind the house. The land plot must be protected from the wind. Loamy, sandy or humus-rich soil is optimal. It should not be heavy and contain a lot of clay.

It is best to plant seedlings in those beds where cucumbers, onions or carrots previously grew. It is not recommended to plant plants where potatoes grew. The soil there contains many pests (wireworm larvae, Colorado potato beetles).

A good neighbor for tomatoes is strawberries. With this proximity, the productivity of both crops increases.

If possible, you can determine the acidity of the soil. The optimal pH for tomatoes is 6-7. Before planting tomatoes, you need to fertilize the soil in the fall. To enrich the soil, compost, humus, peat, superphosphate, and ammonium nitrate are used. It is important that every year you need to change the place for planting tomatoes. The beds for seedlings should have a width of 100-120 cm and a height of 15-20 cm. It is better if they are located from north to south, and the distance between them is at least 70 cm.

Tomato planting technique

Growing tomatoes in open ground includes correct landing plants. Low growing tomatoes for open ground they are arranged in rows. The interval between plants is 30-35 cm. Between the rows you need to leave a distance of 40-45 cm. If available medium-growing varieties, then the distance increases by 10 cm.

There are the following planting options:

• square-nested;
• tape-nested;
• under the film.

In the first option, the bed is divided into squares measuring 70 cm. If there are determinant varieties, 2-3 plants should be planted in 1 nest at once. If there are early ripening varieties that produce wide bushes, then 3 plants are planted in one hole. Mid-season and late-ripening varieties disembark one by one. Planting is carried out in late May-early June, when the threat of frost has passed.

Tomatoes should be planted in open ground together with a lump of earth. First, you need to pour a little water into the pot or plastic container with the plant. This will facilitate the process of removing the earthen coma. It is better to plant early varieties of tomatoes in the evening, when the air temperature drops slightly. The depth of the holes for planting tomatoes should be equal to the depth of the pots in which they grew previously. This is necessary in order not to damage the roots during planting.

You need to pour water into the dug holes. For 8-10 holes, 1 bucket is enough. Humus is added to the holes along with mineral fertilizer in a ratio of 3:1. There is no need to apply too much fertilizer. An earthen ball with a plant is placed vertically in the hole and sprinkled with earth. For faster development of the root system, it is necessary to tear off some of the leaves of the seedlings.

How to tie up tomatoes

There are the following methods for gartering tomato seedlings:

• using wooden stakes;
• trellis;
• using caps;
• cellular.

Tomatoes need to be tied so that the stems do not break, do not bend and develop better. The garter provides better access to the sun's rays. In case of heavy rain or wind, tied tomatoes will be reliably protected. Tying facilitates the process of caring for plants (watering, spraying, loosening). During fruiting of tomatoes, the fruits will not be located on the ground. This will protect them from pests.

Tying protects tomatoes from rotting. Every gardener must know not only how to plant tomatoes correctly, but also how to tie them up.

The easiest way to tie is with pegs. Any material (wood, plastic, metal) can be used to make stakes. The height of the stakes depends on the height of the seedlings. Tall tomatoes need to be tied up using stakes 2-2.5 m long.

There should be stakes more plants by 20-30 cm. They are driven into the ground to a depth of 20-30 cm. Thus, the height of the driven stakes corresponds to the height of the plants. The stakes should be placed at a distance of 10 cm from the plants. Synthetic materials are used for tying. This could be twine or a piece of fabric. The fishing line won't work.

If you have a large plantation, and the number of tomatoes is in the hundreds, then in this situation it is more convenient to garter on a trellis. This method is suitable for tall plants. To do this, wooden poles are installed, to which horizontal slats are attached. Instead of slats, thick wire can be used. It should be located in several rows. As the tomatoes grow, they will attach themselves to the support.

Formation of tomatoes in open ground (video)

Caring for planted tomatoes

Caring for tomatoes in open ground plays a decisive role in getting a good harvest.

Care includes removing shoots, fertilizing, watering, spraying, weeding the beds, pollination, loosening the soil, and protection from possible frost.

The technology for growing tomatoes is simple, but from the owners land plot it requires some effort and patience.

Even the presence the best varieties Tomatoes for open ground are not the key to getting a large harvest. If there is going to be frost in the coming days, the tomatoes need to be hilled up and covered with burlap or film. The technology for growing tomatoes necessarily includes watering. This crop does not like frequent watering. Plants need to be watered abundantly, but rarely. After it, a small crust should form on the garden bed.

I have long admired the harvests of Vladimir Anderson. One of his hobbies is growing tomatoes. .And then I saw a story about him. - Vladimir is a resident of Omsk, and therefore the key words in our conversation are Vladimir’s words: 1. Dates for sowing tomatoes: April 20 - 25 and not at home, but in the unheated soil of a greenhouse. 2. Tomatoes are grown in open ground. 3. Vladimir grew more than two kilograms of tomatoes, which is not a rare occurrence. Vladimir Anderson: I had no intention of putting the photographs on public display. I posted the photo for a friend who lives in Kaluga, and then people from all over the country started visiting my page. But it’s inconvenient for me to refuse, so I’m stuck. My photos were posted on the “Our Garden” forum, many people there didn’t believe me until they came to me personally and were convinced, and they also said that these photos were taken in the Kuban, or somewhere in the south, that this couldn’t happen in Siberia be. Since childhood, I have loved the garden, I love everything ripe and tasty, I have studied hundreds of recipes for pickles and marinating, I also have my own recipes, and the agricultural technologies I have developed allow me to do everything very quickly and without any difficulties. I have 30 acres and it’s easy for me to do the work alone. No chemicals or fertilizers! Only humus, forest soil and wood ash! I usually plant 550 tomato roots of 25-30 varieties, mostly large, 10 permanent varieties, the rest are new every year. I keep the varieties that I like for constant cultivation. Of course, there are helpers, but mostly I cope alone. Our summer in Siberia is short, but I have a special technology for hardening seeds. I sow tomatoes in a greenhouse at the dacha on April 20-25, the tomato seeds have already been soaked and hatched into the cold soil, it is warm in the greenhouse during the day, and cold by the morning, this balance of temperature differences provides a good stimulus for the growth and development of the root system. And in the apartment in boxes I grow seedlings of peppers, eggplants and onions. My tomatoes can withstand short-term frosts down to -5 degrees. I sow tomatoes on April 20-25 in a greenhouse, when they sprout, I plant grown eggplants and peppers between the tomatoes. When it’s time to plant in open ground, I water it well and pull out the tomatoes by the roots, placing them in a bucket of water - about 80 of them. Everything takes 5 minutes. Then I plant the seedlings from the bucket into the ground. Peppers and eggplants that were planted between the rows of tomatoes remain in the greenhouses. After the cultivator, I use a rake to make two grooves under each trellis, and then water it thoroughly. After watering, 3 hours later I make holes in a checkerboard pattern; tomatoes love the wind and sun. I make holes with a bayonet shovel, very convenient and quick, 3 seconds and the hole is ready. I make 550 holes in 20 minutes slowly, and then the assistant plants the tomatoes, each bush takes 3-5 seconds. I sprinkle humus and wood ash on the beds and grind them with a cultivator. Planting is even simpler; I just pull the seedlings out of the greenhouse by the roots, insert them into these holes, press them a little - 5 seconds and you’re done. And one more secret that simplifies plant care - I don’t tie the tomatoes, but I do it very quickly and conveniently. Galvanized wire 3mm. I made loops in it, tied soft wire to the loops and tied a hook at the end, wrapped it around the trunk and fastened it to the same 3mm wire. This year I’m going to mulch for the first time, and I know for sure that the harvest will now be richer, otherwise my soil is sandy, I water it for 5-6 hours, fortunately the dacha is on the river bank! Vladimir Anderson. And this is the address of the photo album where Vladimir indicated the planting sequence according to his agricultural technology. http://foto.mail.ru/mail/shved_68.68/_myphoto/1879.html#2391 this and subsequent photographs are signed. The inscriptions tell how and what. Ask questions to Vladimir, and he will try to answer them. Message by Alexey P This year Vladimir used mulching, here are the photos. And this is already frost:

Several years ago, I made a choice for myself how to grow tomatoes on my summer cottage. Since then, despite the harsh climate in Altai, I have refused to use greenhouses and place these vegetables only in open ground.
Since I mainly harvest tomato seeds myself, I don’t use hybrids. My main varieties now are Russian Bogatyr, Altai Masterpiece, King London, Northern Beauty, Fat Jack, Snezhana, Sevruga. I only test 2-3 new varieties every year, and if The variety is suitable - I leave it for myself for constant use.

I choose a place for tomatoes in the fall so that the predecessors are carrots or onions, and I also strictly ensure that they have not been in this place for 3-4 years before. Tomato beds 5 m long are evenly covered with humus of bird droppings, 3-4 kg each and I leave it like this until spring.
I sow seedlings in early April, because my apartment and loggia are very sunny, and the tomatoes grow very actively and quickly, and if you sow them earlier, they simply outgrow. I use my garden soil with the addition of a quarter of peat. I plant the seeds deep 1-1.5 cm.
I plant seedlings in the ground on May 15-20. I immediately install metal arches on the beds, and attach non-woven covering material to them. It protects young tomatoes well from the sun, wind, and frost. If the frost is very strong, I additionally cover the beds on top and polyethylene. These efforts continue until June 15, and then the tomatoes grow constantly openly.
All summer I weed the beds, water them regularly 2-3 times a week, constantly loosen them. Twice a season in June and July I fertilize with a solution of bird droppings 1 to 15 at the rate of one bucket for 10-12 bushes. This gives a very good effect, the bushes grow very strong, powerful, bloom well and produce a lot of ovaries.
I tie tall, indeterminate varieties (some reach 2.5 m) to pegs and form them into two stems, removing all the stepsons. I don’t tie determinate tomatoes at all, but fill their beds with pine needles and they grow lying down. This doesn’t really affect the yield, but Due to the needles, the fruits are clean and do not spoil at all.
In September, I untie the bushes of late varieties from the stakes and lay them out along the beds, and again put up arches and covering material to protect them from autumn frosts. In this way, fruiting is extended until mid-October. I do the same for long-term varieties (Northern Beauty, Pepper-shaped, etc.) .
Your own tomatoes for the New Year
Some of them can retain good quality fruits until the new year. They may not look as beautiful in December as in summer, but they taste good and are 100 percent environmentally friendly!
How to grow delicious tomatoes

Pyotr Muranov from the Penza region shared his experience on how to grow delicious tomatoes.

“I grow tomatoes in an unheated lean-to greenhouse 6 m long and 2.5 m wide. Its northern side is blank, whitewashed on the inside. The front and side walls are covered with non-woven material, the roof is covered with polyethylene film. There are vents in the sides for ventilation. I make the beds for growing delicious tomatoes high - 0.8 m, 1 m wide.

I plant determinate tomato varieties Golden Heart and Gnome (30 roots in total). This productive tomatoes, which, moreover, are practically not affected by late blight. For variety, I also grow 10 plants of the varieties Carrot, Truffle and some others.

I plant tomato seedlings sown in March in a greenhouse in mid-May, deepening the plants by two-thirds. How to grow delicious tomatoes further? Here a lot depends on fertilizing.

A week later, and then every three weeks, I water the seedlings at the root (1 liter each), alternating infusions for feeding - mullein (1:10), biostimulator Ovary (according to instructions), ash (glass), double superphosphate (half a matchbox) and nitroammophoska (1 matchbox).

To prevent viral diseases, I give tomatoes a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 g) and boric acid(35 g).

There is another secret on how to grow sweet tomatoes. For the sugar content of fruits, there is a proven composition of fertilizing - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of table salt and 1 glass of ash.

If it rains for a long time, then I use Fitosporin, and in the heat, when the tomatoes are poorly pollinated and their flowers fall off, I water them with a solution of boric acid (1 teaspoon).

I prepare all infusions and solutions based on 10 liters of water.

With such care, the harvest from 40 tomato roots is enough to provide for yourself fresh vegetables and make preparations for the winter.”
http://blogs.mail.ru/mail/valentina-bondareva/tag/%ef%ee%ec%e8%e4%ee%f0%fb

All about tomatoes.
from Lydia Ishimtseva.
I have been involved in vegetable growing for about 30 years. During this time I have come to the conclusion that working on the land is creative work, albeit hard work. But in order to create, you need to know about the factors influencing the development of plants in order to get a good harvest in any weather conditions. My hobby is tomatoes. Over many years of growing this crop, I came to the conclusion that not only heat, light, air, and nutrition are decisive factors.
Right choice variety is a very important step when growing tomatoes in open ground, and even in a greenhouse. For northern regions, cold-resistant, early-ripening varieties are of greatest value. Many gardeners make the grave mistake of growing varieties that are unadapted to local conditions; or rather, they sow what they can get their hands on, more often southern varieties, hence all the failures, and after failures come disappointments.
In a previously published article about tomato varieties, I wrote that my rule is never to offer seeds of varieties that I have not grown and that I have not tasted. This year, too, there were about 50 “new varieties.” I selected 28. Many varieties were sent by amateur gardeners from the Tyumen region, Novosibirsk, and Altai regions.
Thank you, my dears, for the seeds and your care. All your varieties are truly worth checking out.
The old reliable varieties, which I have been growing for many years, and for which I received good reviews from amateur gardeners, did not disappoint either. Tomatoes “giant Novikova”, “Astrakhan”, “potato raspberry”, “King of London”, “pink honey”, “South Ural”, “hospitable”, “Gina”, “Budenovka”, “early 83” - large-fruited, productive, this year they did not disappoint.
“King of the Early” is one of the best large-fruited varieties for open ground, the fruits are light crimson in color, weigh 400 g, and are delicious. Of the new varieties, or rather those that I planted for the first time, I was struck by “grandmother’s secret” with fleshy, sweet fruits up to 800 g - and a lot.
“Pink Elephant” is large, fleshy, with a sugary twist. “Scarlet Candles” are tasty and good for pickling.
In an article by O. Simone I read about Chinese tomatoes. Seedlings are bought for 30 rubles. for a bush.
I sowed the donated seeds. I didn’t see anything unusual either. And somehow I didn’t notice them, but when they began to ripen, a wonderful transformation happened. The bushes were completely covered with strong, beautiful, tasty tomatoes - 200 grams each. They are stored for a very long time. Well, since we started talking about storing tomatoes, I bought wonderful “Tanka truffles” tomatoes. Stored in a cool place until January, the “Japanese truffle” is orange, does not yield in terms of time, and is stored well, although smaller.
In my practice, I give preference to low-growing varieties for open ground. I have wonderful varieties - “favorite holiday” (fruits of huge size, dense Pink colour height 80 cm), variety “Altaechka” - it is all strewn with red-raspberry colored fruits from 150 to 300 grams.
“A royal gift” - amateur gardener O. Simone wrote about this variety. The fruits are pink, large, up to 400 gr. This is truly a “royal gift”.
"Deadly Force" - new high-yielding variety, short with large fruits. “Lord Keeper” is a pepper-shaped gift for gardeners. Very productive. “Pudovik” is short-growing with large fruits. I would also like to say about these early ripening early varieties that were given to me - “Kharnas”, “Likurich”, “Rozina”, “Siberian Trump” - very early.
“Siberian Troika” is a high-yielding, low-growing variety with pepper-shaped fruits, very large, red, hanging in clusters.
“Honey Saved” - you can shoot with basins, like sunny amber hearts. Thank you to everyone who sent seeds.
I would really like to say that from the short ones large varieties Still, the best is the “Mongolian dwarf”. But then I got a “buckeye”, imagine a mother hen with chicks under her. This is what this variety of “chickweed” looks like: “chicken” tomatoes don’t peek out from under the leaves, but you pull them apart, and there are even, round, tasty “chickens”, there are so many of them.
A very good variety from the same series of low-growing “Little Red Riding Hood” and “Yamal”.
I would like to say especially about the “Batyanya” variety. There were three seeds. This is a wonderful variety, there are a lot of fruits, they hang in clusters. It seems to me that I collected them all summer, and they just kept growing and growing.
My dear gardeners! Pay attention to the varieties. Varieties must be adapted to the conditions of a certain zone: cold-resistant and early ripening to the north. “Siberian early ripening”, “jewel”, “Alaska”, “northerner”, “Siberian troika”, “Siberian trump card”, “little red riding hood”, “Mongolian dwarf”.
Heat-drought-resistant in the south, resistant to a complex of diseases, possessing taste qualities.
Varieties for any purpose must first of all be characterized by high and stable yields. I want to offer you these seeds.
Seeds 15 pieces - 10 rub.
The minimum order amount is 50 rubles.
From you a letter with an attached receipt (or a copy thereof) about the transfer of money, a blank envelope with a stamp of 30 rubles. with your address. My address: 456531, Chelyabinsk region, Sosnovsky district, village. Sargazy, st. Sirenevaya, 13, apt. 2, Ishimtseva Lidia Iosifovna.
Phones:
8-351-44-99-3-36, 8-919-115-79-04.
Lidiya ISHIMTSEVA
Sargazy village

Should we talk about the formation of tomatoes in a greenhouse? After all, oddly enough, many novice gardeners don’t even suspect that tomatoes also need to be shaped somehow. They think he planted it - and it grows.

But, since you have started growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, it would be more rational to follow all the rules of cultivation. Firstly, it is better to grow indeterminate varieties and hybrids in greenhouses. These are tomatoes that grow almost endlessly until frost. And this wouldn’t be bad at all if they only grew upwards. But tomato plants have one interesting feature, they like to grow additional shoots called stepsons. Stepchildren can grow from each leaf axil. It is not uncommon for two stepsons to grow from one sinus. And if the tomatoes are properly overfed, then you can see a lot of surprising things - stepsons can form on the flower clusters and even directly on the leaves. If you don’t fight this, but just walk and water, then in mid-July it will be difficult for you to walk through the greenhouse, and in August it’s simply impossible.

It would seem that it would be good - how many tomatoes will grow in such a forest - a novice gardener will think. But no, unfortunately it will not grow - there will not be enough food and our short summer. Plus, they will overcome illnesses; in such shade and dampness they will have a real resort. So all the energy of the plant, instead of being directed towards the formation of a crop that will actually have time to grow in our conditions, will drive a bunch of green tops and a mass of flowers, which few people eat. You are not going to fatten the Colorado potato beetle.

Actually, for this reason, tomatoes in the greenhouse need to be shaped.

Growing tomatoes with one stem. The simplest forming of a bush.

Indeterminate varieties and hybrids of tomatoes usually form a single stem. This means that all stepchildren are deleted. And you will have only one main trunk, on which 5-6 bunches of tomatoes should grow by August. In general, this is the simplest type of formation, so it is perfect for beginner tomato growers.

Indeterminate varieties of tomatoes produce their harvest gradually throughout the summer. The first flower cluster is usually formed above the 10th - 11th leaf, and the subsequent ones - after 3 leaves.

Look at what is written on the packet of your seeds. Typically, the seed manufacturer will indicate if the plant forms a single stem. But sometimes they don’t write this, they simply indicate that the variety is indeterminate.

Stepchildren usually begin to grow no earlier than the first flower cluster appears. Right under it, the first, fattest stepson begins to grow. Sometimes it is rational to leave one flower brush on this first stepson and pinch it. In this case, be sure to leave two more sheets above the brush, and only then pinch them. This is necessary for complete circulation of juice.

As the plant grows, at least once a week, carefully break out all the stepsons. In the month of August, depending on your climate zone, it is recommended to pinch the top tomato plant and remove all flowers and all fruits smaller than a hazelnut. In the Moscow region, it is rational to carry out such actions from August 10 to August 20. Of course, a warm September may also happen. In such a case, you can leave yourself a couple of tomato bushes without pinching the tops or removing the small ovary there.

Don't forget to remove the lower leaves as well. In our climate, it is necessary to remove leaves in such a way that all leaves are removed under the brush with green tomatoes that have already reached their size, but have not yet ripened. Start in late May - early June by removing 1-3 bottom leaves per week. A maximum of three leaves can be removed at a time, otherwise the plant will experience severe stress, which can lead to stunted growth and, in some cases, loss of yield. The leaves are broken sideways, not downwards. If you break downwards, a large piece of skin can be removed from the trunk.

Pruning and breaking out leaves is best done in sunny, warm weather in the first half of the day, then by the evening the wound will have time to dry out and the infection will not penetrate.
Note on the picture.
Option A. - we simply remove all the stepsons, leaving 5 - 7 brushes. We will get uniform ripening of the crop throughout the season.
Option B. involves leaving one hand on the first stepson and then pinching the stepson. This way, you can get the bulk of the harvest a little earlier (the second cluster and the cluster on the stepson will ripen almost simultaneously).

The tomato is bursting at the seams!!!
This year, if you ask anyone, everyone is complaining that their tomatoes burst, right on the bush. In open ground there are fewer bursting fruits, but they still exist. And in the greenhouses there is literally some kind of epidemic.

Actually, there is nothing surprising in this... The summer turned out to be not just hot, but very hot... Many people are surprised - what does the heat have to do with it? Yes, it was the heat that was the main culprit for cracking tomatoes this year.

So the question of the day is why do tomatoes burst and crack? And why does this happen more often in greenhouses than outdoors?

Even without spreading the thought through the tree, it is very simple to explain this phenomenon. In hot weather, during the daytime, plants are sorely lacking moisture. Even if you have an established drip irrigation, which is rare in amateur tomato growing, when the air temperature outside is + 40, the roots of the plant often simply do not have time to provide the plant with the required amount of moisture. Moreover, the temperature is comfortable for tomatoes. as you know, not 40-50 degrees, as in a greenhouse, but 20-25... One good thing is that in the depths of the earth and in such heat there is always a layer of earth with a temperature comfortable for the roots.

Therefore, in ordinary greenhouses, where watering is carried out often once a week, the plants suffer from a lack of moisture during the day. At the same time, the size of the fruit decreases slightly, it shrinks... And at night the plant greedily begins to absorb moisture - steam from the air condenses, is deposited on the leaves in tiny particles and is immediately absorbed through the leaves and stems. The fruits become saturated with water, stretch (often literally by a fraction of a millimeter), and this stretching of the fruit is quite enough for the skin on the tomato to burst.

The most in an effective way The best way to combat cracking of tomatoes in such hot weather is drip irrigation. Well, or at least water the tomatoes often - every day, or every other day.. At the same time, do not forget that high air humidity in the greenhouse and hot weather contribute to the spread of some fungal diseases of tomato. Therefore, it is worth watering at the root, for example, in specially stuck ones in the ground plastic bottles with the bottom cut off...

The usual practice of watering tomatoes rarely and abundantly always results in bursting fruits. especially in such heat and during the fruiting period. But at the same time it reduces the risk of spreading fungal diseases.

Unfortunately, it is the most delicious tomatoes - large-fruited, thin-skinned, sweet - that most often burst first. Pink-fruited tomatoes usually hold the record for the number of bursting fruits.

Let's speed up the tomato harvest.

Let's face it, I'm not a fan early landing tomatoes for seedlings, especially in apartment conditions - the seedlings outgrow, wither and look reproachfully from the window at their tormentor. And it doesn’t produce a big harvest.. This has been written in more detail in other topics.

But if you approach the issue from the other side. What are the main factors preventing us from getting an early harvest? This is a lack of space on the windowsill for large bushes - after all, seedlings need to be grown for 60-70 days instead of the optimal 40-50. We are also hampered by the lack of light for good growth seedlings in February, insufficient soil volume for the development of the plant during long-term cultivation in the window and, finally, insufficient heating of the soil in its permanent habitat - in a garden bed or in a greenhouse. If all these factors are eliminated/overcome, then you can start sowing tomatoes in February.

It would seem, especially for novice tomato growers, that there is not much difference between 45-day and 65-day seedlings.. Ha.. You should have seen these 65-day-old burdocks.

Let’s say we don’t need to immediately plant a greenhouse full of tomatoes in February, but we want to start harvesting our tomatoes from several bushes in June. Let it be 3 or 5 bushes. Well, later the tomatoes planted in optimal timing. Taking into account that the average time from germination to fruiting for early varieties is about 100 days, to get the first tomatoes in June, they must be sown at the very end of February-beginning of March.

For this kind of cultivation, which is somewhat not optimal for tomatoes, hybrids are more suitable. Although they are usually not as tasty, they are, as a rule, more resistant to unfavorable conditions cultivation and diseases. After all, the less sun, the greater the likelihood of developing diseases in our tomatoes.

So, choose your favorite hybrid. If you take super-early varieties, you can get reddening tomatoes already on the window... In general, there is nothing wrong with this, the harvest will just be smaller.

We sow our tomatoes as you prefer, either in cup-boxes with subsequent picking, or directly in larger cups for growing without picking.

A prerequisite for such seedlings is the presence of good lighting. Because in February - early March they will be sorely lacking sun, even on south-facing windows.

By the time your seedlings grow 4-5 true leaves, they should already be sitting in a pot with a volume of at least one liter. When growing on a window for a long time, it is important not to let the roots grow and form a twisted lump - they begin to rot and the plant degrades, the yield is noticeably reduced.

Usually, after the 9-10th true leaf, the first flower cluster appears in tomatoes. This significant event usually occurs 45-60 days after germination. It's time to transfer the plants into a container of at least three liters. This is what usually becomes the limiting factor - where to place many three-liter pots on the window in an apartment... And why - let them grow in a box, the whole herd will have hundreds of heads.

No, well, of course, you can argue that my grandmother always grew 80 bushes in a box on one northern window and she had a wonderful harvest... It is, of course, quite possible, but it didn’t work out for me, alas. Moreover, seedlings up to 45 days old can be grown in liter containers. For seedlings older than 45-50 days, serve at least a two-liter pot. Three is better, but unrealistic in urban conditions.

The soil in the greenhouse warms up enough for planting tomatoes, usually not earlier than the beginning of May, and often only by mid-May. Therefore, it is very advisable in March-April to prepare the soil in the greenhouse for planting tomatoes and cover it with black film - under the film, the heating of the soil will be much more intense. Thus, weather permitting, already at the end of April-beginning of May our bushes will move from large pots to the greenhouse. Moreover, the bush must have either already set fruits or at least flowers. And this is exactly where the danger lies - if the transplant is unsuccessful, the plant will easily shed its entire cluster. Therefore, handle the bush carefully without damaging the roots. And check the weather forecast so that it is warm for at least three days after the transplant.

Here, in general, are all the simple conditions for getting your first tomatoes in June. And if someone at home has deposits of five-liter pots and free window sills, then he can at least plant the entire greenhouse with early tomatoes.

There are only five commandments when planting tomatoes.

Five simple rules, but perhaps some novice tomato experts will find them useful.

First, and perhaps most important in our climate, do not plant tomato seedlings in unheated soil. This has already been written about in a previous article.

Second. Do not unnecessarily bury tomatoes too deep when planting. Probably in warmer regions (Ukraine, for example, or the Krasnodar Territory) you can afford to plant deep. But in middle lane In Russia and the North-West, we will lose a precious extra week - the time while the buried seedlings will actively produce new roots, and the tops will stop growing during this time.

Third. Don't neglect to check the weather forecast before planting seedlings. We all know that weather forecasters cannot be trusted. And yet, forecasts sometimes come true. Therefore, if in the coming days the temperature is predicted to drop below +8 +10 degrees during the day and below +3+5 at night, think - maybe you can marinate our seedlings on the windowsill a little more.

Fourth. Do not fill planting holes with urea, chicken droppings, fresh manure, etc. fertilizers containing a lot of nitrogen. Yes, nitrogen is necessary for the growth of any plant, and if there is no nitrogen at all, then we won’t even see tomatoes. But if we swell when planting fresh manure or something similar, then again instead of tomatoes we will get a bunch beautiful green tops

Fifth. Remove cotyledon leaves, any leaves that are below or at ground level, and any yellow or diseased leaves. Diseased leaves, which often form at the bottom of the plant when growing seedlings at home, are a gateway to infection. It is best to tear off the leaves in the morning, so that the places where they are torn off have time to dry out before the evening.

Planting seeds. To germinate or not to germinate?

Having decided on the sowing dates, it’s time to get down to business!

To germinate or not to germinate? Soak or sow with dry seeds?

Without further ado, let's say this - if you have a lot of free time, or you just like the process... or it is very critical to speed up the emergence of seedlings by a couple of days - you can start soaking and germinating seeds. However, if the seeds are not expired and you want to spend your free time on something else, then it is not at all necessary to soak tomato seeds to germinate them.

On the other hand, if you have any interesting variety, which has long expired, and you really want to get plants from it, then soaking the seeds can help a lot.

What should I soak the seeds in? Here the flight of people's imagination is inexhaustible. They are soaked in aloe juice, and in a solution of microelements, in melt water and in the currently popular solutions of humic fertilizers, zircon, epine, etc.

The seeds are soaked in a small amount of water for 10-20 hours. If you leave them for longer, the seeds will suffocate.

After soaking, the seeds should either be sown directly into the soil mixture, or left until hatching in a shallow container, for example, on gauze in a saucer of water (cover the top with a layer of gauze so as not to dry out.) One is tempted to ask - do you need it?

It is much more practical to sow the seeds after soaking, or if the quality (or quantity) of the seeds is sufficient, immediately sow them in the ground.

Regarding the composition of the soil. Tomatoes are not demanding plants when it comes to soil composition; however, it is unwise to grow seedlings in bare peat. The stores sell a lot of soil mixtures for growing nightshades; for some reason I like the German ones...

Many people use soil from their own garden without any problems, but this option should not be considered as recommended, since few people control the presence of pathogens of bacterial, viral and fungal diseases in their soil. These pests can especially quickly destroy a fragile seedling, especially after picking, when it is damaged root system.

The popular boiling and frying of the soil kills not only harmful microflora, but also beneficial ones, so boiling the soil is also not a positive action, as many mistakenly believe.
You can object to me that the purchased mixture may contain even more of these most evil and unkind microorganisms, but this is already a question of the integrity of the manufacturers. There are rumors that many people are selling soil that was previously used in industrial greenhouses (a terrible thing).

In general, let's hope that you and I got normal soil, and mole crickets with late blight will not climb out of it. It's time to plant seeds in it!

There are two options - growing seedlings with picking or without picking.

When growing seedlings with subsequent picking, the seeds are sown in available boxes, boxes and other containers, leaving a distance of a couple of centimeters between the plants. When the first true leaf appears on the sprouts, the plants are distributed into individual pots. In this case, the main taproot is often specially pinched, after which the tomato develops a fibrous root system.

If you do not want to pick up the seedlings, then you can plant the seeds immediately in individual small pots, and then transfer them to large containers without damaging the root system. However, there is evidence that if the main tap root has reached the bottom, and there is nowhere for it to grow further, and it bends upward along the wall of the pot, then such a plant lags behind in development and does not bring a full harvest.

The seeds are buried 1-1.5 centimeters. If you deepen it less than a centimeter, you risk getting seedlings with an unshed seed coat. It can be problematic to free such plants from the seed coat, and they often die.

As an option, when such a sprout with the shell still intact appears from the ground, you can fill it with another 1.5-2 centimeters of soil on top. This usually helps.

Seed sprouts appear, depending on the quality of the seeds and temperature, in a period of four to fifteen, and even in some rare cases, thirty days. Seeds usually germinate in about one week.

Optimal temperature for seed germination - 25 degrees. At temperatures below 18 degrees, germination is greatly delayed. at temperatures below 14-15 degrees, seeds practically do not germinate.

Plants sprouted in our apartment conditions often tend to stretch due to lack of light and elevated temperature. Therefore, it is very important to create conditions that prevent stretching in the first days.

First, place the seedlings on the brightest window; it is advisable to use additional lighting. The need for round-the-clock illumination of seedlings in the first two or three days seems doubtful to me; it is, to put it mildly, unnatural. They will stop stretching, but they will also get stressed.

Further stages of caring for seedlings consist of rare watering and fertilizing. It is very important, especially in low light conditions (i.e. on our regular windows), not to flood the seedlings with water. The soil should not be damp all the time, especially if it is cool on the window at night, then in such damp and damp soil young tomatoes are very quickly affected by a variety of fungal diseases that can kill all the seedlings.

Caring for tomato seedlings.
So the first loops of germinating tomatoes appeared from the ground. How to grow them healthy, fat and beautiful plants?
First of all, let's move them to the brightest window, and make sure that this window has no cracks from which a cold draft blows! Especially at night. It often happens that the soil in a container with tomatoes cools to unacceptable temperatures at night.
This is especially dangerous if the ground is too wet. Do not overwater the sprung seedlings!
Usually the first watering is required a week after germination. Do not forget that if the soil above has dried out, then below it may still be quite wet.

It happens that the sun shines brightly during the day and the plants wilt slightly. A not very experienced tomato grower immediately rushes to correct the situation and pours more water on the tomatoes... But after a few hours the sun goes away, and the tomatoes remain in the wet, cold soil.
And half the trouble if tomorrow there is sun again... But if tomorrow there is cloudy weather, and even the day after tomorrow... then the tomato will get sick very easily.

The first true leaves, two at a time, appear after 4-5 days, if there is enough warmth and light. Seedlings of this age can already be planted if you sowed the seeds in a common pot and not in individual ones. In general, tomatoes tolerate picking and transplanting almost painlessly at any age, if you do not injure too much of the roots. And they are planted at such a young age precisely because the roots of neighboring plants have not yet begun to intertwine.

The further the conditions are from optimal, the longer the development takes and the easier the tomatoes become sick. Optimal conditions- this is not flooded, slightly moist soil, the temperature is around 20-25 degrees during the day (the lighter it is, the higher the optimal temperature), and 18 degrees at night. And of course the light. A lot of light. If these “simple” conditions are observed, the tomato does not suffer from anything and grows quickly.

Two weeks after germination, the fourth true leaf appears on the tomatoes. If you did everything correctly, then this is a squat, stocky oak tree with strong, fragrant, green leaves.

IN good conditions after a month, the tomatoes begin to develop flower clusters visible to the naked eye. Another 10-15 days - and it’s time to move them to the greenhouse! It is categorically not recommended to delay this matter - it is fraught with a decrease in the yield. If for some reason you need to keep tomatoes in the window for longer than 45-50 days, provide them with at least 1 liter of soil per plant. I emphasize once again - this is the minimum, not the optimal amount.
The problem is that if you keep tomatoes in a relatively small container at the age of 30-40 days, then once in the greenhouse they have time to “accelerate” and grow into full-fledged plants. But if you keep them on the window in a small container for literally another 10 days and let the tomatoes bloom, then the development of the plant switches not to vegetative, but not generative growth (ensuring the growth of fruits), and it is already difficult to achieve normal yields from such undergrowth.
Removing the first flower cluster may help in part.

Let's do the math together - in good conditions, a new brush is tied once a week. It takes approximately 60 days to develop from the appearance of a bud to a full-fledged tomato. In film greenhouses, tomatoes grow on average until mid-September. September 15 minus 60 days = July 15. That is, the brush that appears in mid-July will still be the one that will have time to please us with fruits. Subsequent brushes will probably not have time to ripen, and, in principle, starting from the end of July - beginning of August, unflowered brushes are removed...
This plant is 15 days old
That is, by leaving the plant on the window for one reason or another, we slow down its growth, reduce the potential yield, and pinch off one brush... All this usually happens when tomatoes are planted early - in February or early March for greenhouses. For open ground, tomatoes can generally be planted in the first half of April, but the varieties must be very early ripening.

Same plant, 25 days
As for fertilizing, it greatly depends on the initial soil and general view seedlings. Typically, the first feeding is done 2-3 weeks after germination and then every week. Again, I use German specialized fertilizers for tomatoes based on guano, as well as humic fertilizers and simply complex fertilizers with microelements.

33 days. We will soon move to the greenhouse.

Lighting for seedlings.

The most important thing that tomato seedlings on our windowsills lack is light. They usually have an excess of water and heat, nutrients Same. But the light is a problem, especially for the February rosettes.
To at least slightly compensate the tomatoes for the lack of light, you should use a simple design - a fluorescent lamp with a reflector. Those who have a lot of money for lamps and electricity can also use metal halide lamps. But we will not consider this option here, because it is rather an exception. Although the lighting itself is very, very good.

So, fluorescent lamps. Those rare gardeners who provide illumination for tomato seedlings usually use the first lamp that comes to hand in the lamp, often these are lamps of the 830-840 spectrum. They are the cheapest (of those that can be considered as lamps for illumination. There are also 700x lamps, and even in some places they say they also sell lamps of 600x spectra, there is generally a problem with the spectrum and light output) and they provide some illumination to the plants, but there is and more suitable lamps.
Many advanced plant growers are familiar with the Fluora lamp from Osram, which shines with a rather unpleasant pink-violet light. However, the plants do not agree with me, and in principle they like this lamp, but it has another drawback - low luminous efficiency (luminous flux). Those. with its high price and low light output - also not The best decision
Don’t delude yourself by hanging one light bulb over three rows of seedlings - such lighting will be of no use.

Whenever possible, choose white light bulbs that have the highest light output.

Following the example of Alexander given below in the comments, who chose 3 fluorescent lamps of the 840 spectrum and received acceptable illumination, you can combine them for yourself based on your tastes and means.

965 spectrum lamps are very good - they have a high light output and a good light spectrum. And the color they shine with is pleasing to the eye.

The LifeGlo lamp from Hagen has increased light output; in 2010, I used it to illuminate tomato seedlings. The tomatoes were happy. But again, the price of such a lamp is quite high.

Lamps should be placed at a height of 20-25 cm above the top of the plants. They should shine on a cloudy day - 10 hours, on a sunny day - in the morning and evening, so that the same 10 hours of illumination of the plants is the maximum possible.

The service life of a conventional fluorescent lamp is short - it loses up to 50% of its power in half a year of constant use. This loss of light is not easy to notice with the naked eye.

Be sure to use a reflector (reflector), with its help the luminous flux increases by up to 50% or more.

And by the way, if seedlings grow on a windowsill behind white curtains, they receive free light reflected from the curtains, and if instead of curtains you organize a reflector made of foil, then there will be even more light... (An ideal white surface reflects all incident rays. Physics textbook)
And don’t think that these are all trifles - the light reflected from a white or mirror surface is quite significant. I haven’t measured how many percent there will be yet, but if necessary I’ll find my old light meter

The distance between tomato bushes grown in one trunk in a greenhouse can be about 60 centimeters.

In the following articles we will consider the formation of semi-determinate varieties into two stems and other, more complex formation options.

Secrets of growing tomatoes in open ground

Growing tomatoes outdoors can be difficult for novice gardeners, as the plant is quite demanding to care for. It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the crop when preparing for planting, watering and feeding tomatoes, and also provide them with protection from pests and diseases.

For the reader's reference

Tomato (lat. Solanum lycopersicum) belongs to the Solanaceae family. The fruits of the plant are berries, but the crop is a vegetable, so it is equally correct to call a tomato both a berry and a vegetable. The birthplace of the culture is South America.

When to plant tomatoes in open ground

The crop does not tolerate frost, so plant seedlings in open ground necessary for stable average daily temperature. There is no need to rush: bushes planted early will hurt and lag behind in development.

• In the southern regions of Russia, you can begin the procedure of planting seedlings of early ripening varieties at the end of April;
• In the Urals and Moscow region - in the first half of May (planting time can be shifted by 10-15 days if nighttime air temperature changes are below 15 degrees Celsius);
• Mid-season tomatoes are planted later: in the South - in early May, in central Russia - in early June.

Most favorable days for planting tomatoes lunar calendar are 1-3, 9-10 and 19-20 May. It is recommended to carry out the procedure in the afternoon, preferably in cloudy but not rainy weather.

Features of choosing a location and preparing soil for tomatoes

When choosing a garden plot for planting tomato seedlings, it is recommended to give preference to well-lit southern slopes that are protected from the wind. Since the culture does not like waterlogging, you should choose elevated places with light loamy soil low acidity.

Crop rotation rules for tomatoes

Crop rotation allows the soil to rest and restore the microelements consumed by the plant. Therefore, you should change the planting location of tomatoes every year. It is important to take into account which plants grew previously.

Tomatoes grow much better if they are grown and cared for in open ground in beds where legumes, herbs and root vegetables grew. Crops such as potatoes, peppers or eggplants are undesirable. They can cause late blight to infect the soil, which will spread to the seedlings.

Preparing the soil for tomatoes in several stages

Soil disinfection can be carried out in the fall. A solution is used for the procedure copper sulfate: 1 tablespoon of copper per 10 liters of water. Consumption is 1 liter per square meter beds.

In the spring, the soil is fertilized with organic matter and mineral salts: peat, humus and sawdust are added in equal proportions per square meter of soil, 1 bucket each. Add 2 tablespoons of phosphate and a couple of glasses of ash.

The soil is dug up well and watered with a warm solution of bleach for disinfection (2 liters per square meter). The beds must be prepared in advance: 5-7 days before transplanting tomatoes into open soil.

Tomatoes planting and care in open ground

The quantity and quality of the harvest often depends not only on proper care. It is necessary to properly prepare the seeds before sowing and take care of the growing seedlings, and after planting in the soil - provide good watering and feeding.

Complex of pre-sowing activities

Caring for tomatoes starts with pre-sowing preparation seeds You can perform all the procedures described, or those that you consider necessary.

Culling

The seeds are placed in a saline solution (1 teaspoon per 0.2 liters of water), mixed thoroughly and left to stand for 10 minutes. For planting, select full-weight seeds that have settled to the bottom of the container, wash them with water and dry them.

Warming up

The seeds are placed in fabric bags and heated on a radiator for several days before the sowing procedure.

Disinfection or etching

Necessary for disinfection of planting material. The seeds are soaked for 20 minutes in a 1% iodine solution.

Seed feeding

Soak for a day in ready-made nutrient solutions(Epin or potassium humate). You can use potato juice.

Soaking

The grains in a gauze bag are placed in warm water for 10-12 hours. Every 3-4 hours it is necessary to change the liquid and allow the grains to breathe.

Germination

Planting material place on a damp cloth or paper napkin. It is important to ensure that the material does not dry out and periodically add liquid until the seeds swell and begin to hatch;

Hardening

To ensure vigorous germination, the seeds are placed in the refrigerator overnight and kept at a temperature of 20 degrees during the day. Celsius, the procedure is repeated three times.

Planting tomatoes in open ground

Grown seedlings should be prepared before transplanting. It is necessary to carry out hardening in air and accustom the sprouts to sunlight, otherwise fragile sprouts may die from a sudden change in conditions. Ventilate for 2-3 days, then take the seedlings out into fresh air for a week, gradually increasing the time.

You can plant tomatoes in open ground when the height of the bushes reaches 20-25 cm, and the stem has 7-9 large leaves.

Before transplanting, tomato seedlings are well moistened. The procedure is carried out as follows: the beds are marked out in advance: for tall varieties of tomatoes, the distance between the bushes should be up to 60 cm, and the same between the rows, and for short varieties: 40 and 50 cm, respectively. The holes are made 25-30 cm deep, filled with water and allowed to be completely absorbed.

Ready seedlings taken out of the containers and planted together with a wet earthen lump. If the bush is very elongated, the lower pair of leaves is cut off and the stem is buried in the hole, but so that it does not bend or break.

The roots are covered with earth, a little rotted manure is added and sprinkled again. Then they compact it with their hands and water it: 1-2 liters for each bush.

Immediately after planting, the beds should be covered with film for 6-8 days. During this time, the plants will get stronger and take root; watering is not recommended yet. Afterwards, the shelter can be removed and the planting can be moistened.

Caring for tomatoes in open ground

Tomato bushes must be regularly weeded, hilled and loosened. A peg is installed in advance near each plant. For the highest varieties, the height of the support must be at least 80 cm. It is recommended to use synthetic thread, which does not cause plant rotting.

Watering tomatoes in open ground

Tomatoes do not like excess moisture; stagnation of water can cause the development of fungal diseases. Until the ovary appears, it is recommended to only lightly moisten the soil, avoiding drying out.

Watering tomatoes in open ground when the ovaries appear is carried out once every 7-8 days, 1 liter per plant is enough. During the period of fruit growth and ripening, the frequency of watering is increased to 5-6 days, the amount of water is increased to 2 liters per bush. It is necessary to pour water at the root, avoiding getting it on the leaves, as this can cause blossom end rot. It is recommended to use drip irrigation.

It is recommended to add a couple of pinches of wood ash per bucket to the water during watering (with automated drip irrigation, you can sprinkle the beds). This feeding of tomatoes in open ground will strengthen the plants’ immunity and accelerate their growth.

Water should be taken from a well or well, and tap water should be settled. It is best to water in the afternoon. The water should be warmed up, since cold water will only harm the plants.

Feeding tomatoes in open ground

The procedure is carried out every 2 weeks. For fertilizer use 15 g ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium per 10 liters of liquid. Use 1 liter of solution per bush. When fertilizing, it is important that the amount of nitrogen does not exceed phosphorus and potassium.

Fertilizer for tomatoes in open ground folk recipes, will help you stop using chemicals and pesticides. The most popular among gardeners:

• An infusion of nettle in water will saturate the soil with microelements such as potassium, calcium and manganese.
• A solution of wood ash will help protect tomatoes from pests such as slugs and snails, and at the same time saturate the soil with potassium and phosphorus.
• An infusion of nettle with yeast or other green fertilizer will greatly increase the release of methane and nitrogen, which are beneficial for plants.

How to tie up tomatoes, care and pinching

Caring for tomatoes in open ground does not only involve watering and fertilizing. Immediately after removing the film cover from the garden bed, it is necessary to place a peg near each tomato bush.

It is placed on the north side at a distance of 10 cm from the stem and driven into the ground 30-40 cm. Aboveground part the support is usually 1 m. The bush begins to be tied during its active growth. There is no need to tie the stem tightly to the support; the twine should simply support the plant in an upright position. As you grow, the garter is raised higher.

In order for there to be more fruits and for them to ripen faster, it is necessary to form bushes. Most often, one main stem is left on the plant, and excess shoots are removed. The pinching procedure must be carried out regularly.

Young shoots emanating from the base of already growing clusters must be removed, as well as all leaves below the first branches. They are simply plucked off with two fingers.

Caring for tomatoes in open ground video

Prevention from diseases and pests of tomatoes

Growing tomatoes outdoors makes them especially vulnerable to common diseases and pests. Compliance preventive measures will partially avoid problems.

• Maintain crop rotation, try not to plant tomatoes next to potatoes;
• Dig the soil well before planting and disinfect it;
• Plants affected by diseases or pests must be removed to protect healthy bushes;
• When watering, make sure that the drops do not fall on the leaves;
• Avoid watering during periods of severe temperature drop;
• Give preference to new varieties and hybrids that are resistant to common diseases;
• Use folk remedies to repel pests that damage plants and transmit diseases (infusion of garlic or onion).

Selecting a variety and growing tomatoes in open ground video

Bottom line

Growing tomatoes, planting and caring in open ground will seem simple and will be a pleasure if you provide the crop with everything you need and follow agricultural practices. And what result will you get? excellent harvest.

Don’t be afraid to experiment and try new varieties bred by breeders; grow tomatoes that will be much easier to care for due to their resistance to diseases and temperature changes.

Growing tomatoes in open ground is not difficult. Tomatoes can be found in every garden bed, and if the climate is more or less warm, then you can reap a decent harvest. Features of care may vary, it all depends on the planted variety, weather conditions, soil quality and other factors.

Planting tomatoes in open ground should take place in a place where there is free flow of warm light from the sun. Many varieties do not like draft winds and begin to slow down their development.

How to grow tomatoes without problems? It should be taken into account what crop was planted on the dacha plot. It is not recommended to plant tomatoes where corn, peppers, potatoes, and eggplants previously grew. They are exposed to the same infectious diseases. The good development of tomatoes is facilitated by the soil on which carrots, legumes, spinach, and onions previously grew.

Growing tomatoes in open ground begins with autumn digging selected area to a depth of 28 cm.

It is useful to mix the dug up soil with humus, bird droppings, wood ash or compost. From mineral fertilizers, you can choose potassium salt or superphosphate.

In spring ( best time May is considered) you can dig up the ground again. As a nutritional supplement, you can use a mixture of wood ash, bird droppings and ammonium sulfate. Before transplanting tomatoes into the soil, make furrows at intervals of about 65 cm.

When you can plant tomatoes in open ground depends on the weather. If the cold has not yet subsided, then better timing move, otherwise the harvest will be lost. They also take into account the method of growing tomatoes in open ground and the limits of their ripening.

Suitable variety of species

To learn how to grow tomatoes in open ground, you need to select a variety and become familiar with the features of caring for it. There is a wide variety of varieties of the studied vegetable crop. What types of tomatoes are best to plant is decided by the vegetable grower himself. All of them differ in the size and shades of the fruit, stem height, taste, and ability to withstand bad weather or disease.

What varieties of tomatoes are suitable for outdoor garden beds? When breeding, take into account the height of the bush. There are determinate (varieties that have limited growth) and indeterminate (growth and development continues throughout the growing season) tomatoes.

The stems of low-growing (determinant) species rarely reach a height of 110 cm. Most often, their height is 60-70 cm. They do not require the removal of side branches, they do not need to be tied up. Typically, such varieties have short ripening periods, so the plant rarely experiences the spread of diseases.

Planting tall tomatoes (indeterminate) can amaze with its growth, which sometimes exceeds 2 meters. The plant requires the formation of two or three stems, it is necessary to tie them up, and do not forget to remove the side shoots in time.

Growing tall tomatoes begins in May. When to sow tomatoes for seedlings? It is better to start sowing large tomatoes two months before transplanting grown seedlings, around the end of February. The timing of planting seeds may shift to the beginning of March.

Which tomatoes are best planted in open ground can also determine the limits of ripening. Mature varieties can be enjoyed after 90 days ( early ripening varieties), 110 days ( mid-season varieties) or 120 days (late-ripening species). The most popular tomatoes for open ground.

Ground tomatoes Riddle are characterized by early dates fruit ripening. The trunk is strong. The bushes grow up to 45 cm in height. The variety withstands diseases and a shaded planting site.

Among low-growing tomatoes The Sanka variety is popular. The fruits begin to ripen early. The height of the bush is only 50 cm. It is characterized by high yield, resistance to disease and cold.

Grushovka has average ripening limits. It stretches up to 45 cm. The weight of the fruit can reach 200 g, so you need to tie up the stem.

The varieties with the formation of large fruits can please you with the highest yield. Their weight can reach 700 g. Among large-fruited tomatoes, such good tomatoes, like Bull's Heart, Nobleman, Orange King, Honey Saved, Brawler, De Barao.

Home seedlings

There are two options for planting tomatoes in open ground. Landing on permanent place can be carried out by seedlings or seeds. But it is best to plant tomatoes in open ground as seedlings. Seedlings are grown at home and transplanted into open beds when the weather warms up.

Growing seedlings begins with proper seed selection. Select only large and dense seeds. Planting tomatoes is not complete without pre-treatment of the seeds. A large variety of fungi and bacteria live on the shell of grains, so it is recommended to immerse them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes.

After disinfection, tomato seeds for seedlings are soaked in nutrient solutions. You can use sodium humate, Epin or natural aloe juice. These solutions stimulate the development of the plant.

It is better to plant tomatoes in the ground when the seeds go through the hardening stage. The seeds are alternately placed in a warm or cold place. Thanks to this, the planted plants will develop tolerance to temperature fluctuations.

Many experienced vegetable growers begin to germinate tomato grains before planting seedlings. The seeds are spread on a wet cloth, then covered with another layer of cloth and left until the first shoots hatch.

You can grow seedlings in a wooden or plastic box. Make holes in a prepared container with soil at a distance of 2.5 cm. The sown seeds are covered with film until most of the seedlings appear.

When to plant tomatoes in soil for seedlings? It is better to start sowing tomatoes in early March, but this is only if the dacha is equipped with a structure with a film. When to sow tomatoes if you are not planning to install a shelter? It is better to sow seeds in the last days of March.

Transplanting bushes

When to plant tomato seedlings in open ground depends on the selected species and climate. Planting and caring for tomatoes in open ground often starts in May, on the 20th. If the soil has not warmed up enough, it can be postponed to the beginning of June. Planting tomato seedlings in open ground should occur when the weather is cloudy, without bright sunlight. If there is no such day in the forecast, then it is better to wait until the evening.

How to plant tomatoes in open ground? It is recommended to plant low types of tomatoes with an interval of 37 cm. When planting medium-sized and tall tomatoes, an interval of about 42 cm should be maintained. The depth of the hole should be 12 cm.

Planting tomatoes in the ground can be done using a square-nest method. Make holes in the form of a square, the sides of which are approximately 65 cm. 2-3 seedlings are planted in one hole. If tomato seedlings are planted in open ground using a similar method, then in the future it will be convenient to loosen the row spacing. And the vegetable will receive nutrition and light in full size.

How to plant tomatoes in open ground? To facilitate the process of removing seedlings from a box or cups, as well as to preserve the roots, you need to thoroughly moisten the soil of the seedlings. Planting tomatoes in open ground often consists of the following steps:

• planting tomato seedlings in open ground is accompanied by the addition of any mineral fertilizers mixed with humus into each hole;
• to plant a vegetable in the ground as seedlings, you need to turn the glass with the seedling upside down and carefully pull the stem;
• it is necessary to plant tomato seedlings in a hole together with a lump of earth, which is sprinkled with compost;
• Only the roots and a ball of earth are sprinkled with earth, the stem remains open, you can remove a few lower leaves;
• After covering the compost with a layer of soil, the space around the bush becomes slightly compacted.

Growing tomatoes and caring for them in open ground for the initial 10-14 days requires protection from the hot sun and frost. During this time, the planted bushes adapt to new conditions and take root; they are vulnerable to adverse factors. But it is impossible to determine exactly when it is better to plant seedlings, so shading is required on hot days, and on cold nights the sprouts should be covered with film.

How to grow a good tomato crop, you need to know the rules of watering. After 7-10 days, you can water the beds for the first time. Subsequently, you need to water regularly, but do not overdo it. If there is a lot of moisture, the risk of developing a fungal infection, apical and root rot will increase.

When watering, avoid letting water droplets fall on the leaves and flowers. You only need to water with settled water in the morning or evening.

Tomatoes should be grown in open ground with three feedings throughout the growing season. Tomato needs microelements especially urgently during flowering and fruiting. If large-fruited varieties are grown, more fertilizer applications are required.

You can use a ready-made universal fertilizer or prepare it yourself. The main components are bird droppings, mullein, wood ash, herbal infusions of nettle or dandelion. Non-standard ingredients can be used, for example, potato tops, banana peels, eggshells, whey.

By following the scheme for planting tomatoes in open ground, you can avoid many mistakes, make caring easy and reap a large harvest.

Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants. The secret of growing tomatoes is that sometimes outside help may be needed. To attract pollinating insects, you can water the bushes with a special sweet solution, which is made from sugar, water or jam. You can plant plants with a sweet smell, such as basil, mustard, between the vegetables.

The agronomist can help by slightly shaking the stem twice a day during the period of flower formation.

Seedless method

How to properly grow tomatoes in open ground if the seeds are planted immediately? If you have chosen to plant tomatoes in open ground with seeds, you need to select ones that could take root in natural conditions. For planting tomatoes in open ground with seeds, early-ripening varieties are better suited. Tomato varieties for open ground, time-tested by agronomists, take root well with seeds.

1. Volgograd tomatoes boast good disease resistance and resistance to temperature fluctuations. The fruits begin to ripen at the same time. The average weight of tomatoes is 110 g.
2. It is better to plant seeds of the Iceberg variety in open ground. It continues to develop even in cool weather. The stem is strong and small, only 60 cm. Sweet tomatoes can weigh 200 g.
3. Beta-Lux is an early-ripening, high-yielding species. The height of the bush is about 47 cm. The fruits ripen on clusters of 5 pieces, weighing about 50 g. The plant is resistant to cold and major diseases.
4. From seeds in open ground, the Dubok variety gives good results. It will allow you to harvest within 85 days after sowing the seeds. The height of the stem is about 50 cm. It shows resistance to many diseases, is unpretentious to the composition of the soil, and tolerates cold. The fruits begin to ripen together and weigh about 70 g.

When to plant tomatoes in open ground if you plan to grow them without seedlings? Sowing seeds in prepared soil begins when the ground warms up, this is approximately mid-April. Make wide beds and add humus. Arcs are installed along the beds, over which the film will then need to be stretched in case of frost.

When planting tomato seeds in open ground, you should leave enough space between the rows. It should be 48 cm. The tomato planting scheme involves digging shallow holes (about 5 cm) in the furrows, reminiscent of a checkerboard arrangement. It is recommended to leave an interval of 28 cm between the recesses.

How to plant tomatoes correctly? 3 or 4 seeds are sown in each hole.

How to plant tomatoes correctly has its own secrets. Some experienced vegetable growers soak some of the prepared tomato seeds in a nutrient medium. The other part of the seeds should remain dry. Wet seeds germinate better, provided that it is warm outside. If there are frosts, they may die, then dry seeds, which are less sensitive to low temperatures, come to the rescue.

There is one more important point how to plant tomatoes correctly. As soon as the first leaves of the emerging sprouts unfurl, thinning is carried out. Only mature plants should be left at a distance of 9 cm. The second thinning is done when the fifth leaf unfolds. The distance should now be increased to 14.5 cm.

Young sprouts need to be watered less than tomato seedlings in the room. The root system itself develops in such a way as to provide itself with nutrition and moisture. Watering is only necessary during long, hot weather.

Numerous reviews from experienced vegetable growers indicate that even when planting tomatoes with seeds, you can reap a rich and tasty harvest: “This is not the first year we have been sowing directly into garden beds. There is no need to waste energy on growing seedlings, all parts of the sprout are well lit, the root system goes deep and to the sides, there is no need to dive and stress the plant.”

Following actions

Caring for tomatoes in open ground begins from the moment of planting until the very last harvest. When to plant tomatoes in open ground, the answer cannot be clear. In any case, it is recommended to install arcs with a film near the beds, which will protect from strong winds and frosts. There are several important points on how to care for tomatoes in open ground that should not be missed during care.

The peculiarities of growing tomatoes in open ground include the procedure of loosening, pinching, tying, and hilling.

When growing tomatoes in open ground, so that the bush has a healthy and strong stem and the leaves are rich green, hilling is necessary. Thanks to the procedure, the roots are also strengthened.

Caring for tomatoes in open ground is recommended to be carried out using the mulching procedure - covering the soil with an additional layer. Straw, peat, crushed peat are suitable as mulch for tomatoes in open ground. meadow grass, sawdust. The layer should be no thinner than 8 cm.

The secrets to growing tomatoes include mulching. Thanks to the procedure, moisture evaporates at a lower rate, heat is retained, weeds are not disturbed, and the spread of infections and pests is reduced.

After planting tomatoes in open ground, to prevent dry crust from appearing, you need to loosen the soil between the rows. The best period The time for loosening is considered to be after rain and after watering. Thanks to the procedure, beneficial microelements and oxygen are distributed more quickly throughout the plant.

You also need to care for tomatoes using another procedure. In order for the plant not to grow, but to devote all its strength to the formation of fruits, it is necessary to carry out pinching. Side branches are removed only from tall varieties tomatoes.

How to plant tall varieties so that the stem does not break and the plant actively develops? Planting tall varieties requires a tying procedure. But sometimes even short people may need support. Because of large number The fruit stem may break. Trellis and nets are used as support. The procedure allows not only to keep the stem intact, but also provides free access of air and light to all parts of the plant.

Pegs are installed near each tomato bush to which the stem must be tied. Tying begins from the moment 4-5 leaves unfold on the stem.

Planting tomatoes in open ground is not difficult even for beginners in vegetable growing. The main thing is to follow the instructions, observe all the rules and step-by-step work related to soil, seedlings and care.

Tomatoes belong to the Solanaceae family and are valued for their very tasty and valuable fruits. Contain numerous chemical substances, which have a positive effect on the body and are low in calories, so tomatoes should be in the same garden.

Outdoor tomatoes come from Solanum lycopersicum, a common tomato native to South America. The tomato currently has a huge amount different varieties. Depending on your needs, you can choose the appropriate option. The tomato belongs to the same family as potatoes or peppers. In order for tomatoes to grow well, they should be grown in accordance with the requirements and given due care, as they are demanding plants.

Description

Tomato is an annual herbaceous plants, odd-pinnate leaves dissected into large lobes, planted on shoots, depending on the variety, from 30-40 cm to 200 cm long. Depending on the variety, already inflorescences may appear from June, consisting of numerous flowers. IN fruits appear during the summer, are very diverse, whose shape, color, size, taste depend on the variety.

Priming

As mentioned, tomatoes grow naturally in warm climates. Tomatoes are grown in open ground, greenhouses, and also in a polycarbonate greenhouse. Growing under film better protects tomatoes from fungal diseases and adverse weather conditions, and the tomatoes grow better, ripen faster and develop better.

When growing tomatoes in open ground, you need to choose a place protected from the wind and sunny. top scores in cultivation they are obtained using sandy-clayey soil with a high humus content. You can improve the quality of the soil by enriching it with organic fertilizers. The soil reaction may be slightly acidic, but the correct pH should be in the range of 5.5-6.5.

In sunny places, tomatoes grow faster, bloom, and bear fruit.

Tomatoes are plants that are very sensitive to low temperatures. The optimal temperature for these plants is approximately 18-25° C, while the lower limit concerns the temperature at night, and the temperature during the day should range between 22-25° C.

Growing

Before starting to grow tomatoes in open ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the base, regardless of whether the tomatoes will be grown in open ground or under film. If such a need arises, autumn period the soil must be enriched with manure or compost. If the soil is too heavy, its permeability increases by adding sand. The place should be well dug and cleared of weeds.

Tomatoes should not be planted in the same place, or after nightshade plants, including potatoes. A tomato plantation cannot also be adjacent to nightshade plants.

Tomatoes can be grown after cabbage and legumes.

As already mentioned, tomatoes are grown in open ground, greenhouses and polycarbonate greenhouses. Suitable for owners of balconies dwarf varieties tomatoes, which means they are suitable for growing in pots. The main condition for growing tomatoes on the balcony is a sunny place.

Tomatoes are grown from seeds or purchased seedlings. Preparing the seeds requires effort, but the seedlings will allow you to grow the tomato variety that was previously purchased, since the tomato variety in the form of seedlings may not be on the market.

Obtaining tomato seedlings lasts up to two months, so in order to obtain the appropriate seedlings, the seeds are sown at the end of March, beginning of April. It’s easier for greenhouse owners because they have the necessary conditions for preparing seedlings. Seedlings are grown in a polycarbonate greenhouse, and even on the windowsill of a house. To get healthy seedlings, you need a lighted and warm place. Do not forget about watering, preferably in the morning, so that the tomatoes are not exposed to high humidity at night, which leads to the development of fungal diseases. At temperatures above 20° C, seeds germinate quickly, and seedlings sprout within three weeks after sowing the seeds. Seedlings for diving are selected that are healthy and without defects. During growth, young seedlings need a temperature of 20° C. Before planting tomato seedlings in open ground in a permanent place, the seedlings are hardened off.

Method of planting tomatoes and growing methods

Growing method	Characteristic	Plant type	Varieties
Flat	Tomatoes do not require pruning or tying. Planted at a distance of cm: 70-80x40-50 and 60-70x30-40 cm for varieties with a rigid stem.	Low-growing bush tomatoes with limited growth or rigid stems.	Beta, Malinyak, Karotinka, Izobilny F1, Jampakt, Bohemia F1, Biathlon F1.
On stakes	Growing is carried out on supports, for example, to which plants that require pruning are attached.	Tall: large-fruited high-yielding	Julia F1, Favorite F1, Oxheart.
Accelerated	Cultivation is carried out in greenhouses.	dwarf, very early and early.

It is better to plant tomatoes on a cloudy day or late in the evening if the day is sunny. The soil should be moist and the seedlings should be watered after planting. Watering seedlings in the initial period is very important and contributes to good plant survival. Seedlings are planted at the end of May, when the danger of late spring frosts has passed.

Growing tomatoes outdoors requires numerous care procedures. The main ones include:

• Watering, planted in open ground, in rainy summers, tomatoes are exposed to high humidity from soil and air. Under such conditions, the fruits of fruit-bearing tomatoes crack and the plants become susceptible to diseases. It is important that for growing in open ground, choose varieties that are less susceptible to disease. To reduce the risk of disease, it is worth making a simple canopy of film that will protect the plants from possible heavy rainfall. Watering if necessary, which is especially important during the period of flower setting and fruit formation. Tomatoes are watered not too often, but abundantly, directing a stream of water to the base. Trying not to get the leaves wet, as well as watering the plants, it is best to do it in the morning.
• Fertilizer application, another very important process. In amateur cultivation, they use, first of all, organic fertilizers. For open ground, you can use compost, manure and other organic fertilizers; fertilize during the growing season mineral fertilizers with microelements, adjusting the dose in accordance with the instructions for use of this fertilizer. Potassium and phosphorus are also important for tomatoes. There is no need to overdo it with fertilizing plants in the initial period after planting.
• Mulching: To reduce the evaporation of water from the soil and also reduce the development of weeds, tomatoes should be mulched, for example, with straw.
• Loosening the earth.
• Pruning, of course, it is easier to grow low-growing bush tomatoes in open ground, which do not require tying and pruning. High grades tied to stakes or ropes. With this cultivation, you can leave one, two or three shoots. When grown on one shoot, all side shoots are removed at the initial stage of development. Pruning shoots accelerates fruiting and ripening of tomatoes. Rapid fruiting reduces the number of inflorescences. On one stem, you can leave about 4-5 flower clusters. When the fruits set, cut off the top above the fourth or fifth group of inflorescences, depending on how many inflorescences remain on the plant. This type of pruning is defined as top pruning. You should also remember to remove lower leaves, limit the possibility of plant damage by diseases.

When grown on two shoots, in addition to the main one, another lateral impulse is left under the first inflorescence. Remember that a larger number of shoots contributes to later fruiting.

Harvest, depending on the variety used, can last from July to October. The last fruits, which can be collected green to protect them from frost, are left to ripen in the house.

Varieties

Among the varieties, there are early, medium, late, ground, greenhouse, dwarf, tall, hard-stemmed, soft-stemmed, and self-ripening varieties.

In addition, varieties differ in size, fruit shape, taste, color, in particular red, pink, yellow, green.

Some varieties of tomatoes

• ‘ Chocolate cherry ’ - one of the new varieties of tomatoes, which are distinguished by small red-black fruits.
• 'Oxheart'– a variety with very tasty, fleshy fruits, tall, and therefore requires support. The name of the variety is associated with the shape of the fruit. Late variety The harvest begins in August and continues until late autumn.
• ‘Koralik’– a bush variety, the clusters bear many small fruits, suitable for amateur cultivation. The variety is mid-early, with thin stems, the fruits are red, spherical, firm and tasty.
• 'Favorite'- a variety with tasty, fleshy, raspberry fruits.
• 'Sycamore'- suitable for growing in open ground, an early variety with round, tasty fruits. Self-ripening.
• ‘Golden Ozharovsky’– a variety with strong growth and orange fruits.
• ‘Crimson Giant’– the variety is excellent for amateur cultivation in open ground; the fruits are large, fleshy, and tasty.

Properties

In addition to its unique taste, tomato fruits contain many vitamins and minerals. Among the vitamins, it is worth noting vitamins B1, B2, A, K, C, PP. In addition, the fruits contain calcium, iron, sodium, phosphorus, malic acid, citric acid, sugar. Due to their high water content (above 90%), they are low in calories, but at the same time quite filling due to their fiber content.

A very valuable component of tomatoes is lycopene, which means it is an antioxidant that has a beneficial effect on our body.

Tomatoes are eaten raw (salads, sandwiches), as well as in the form of products (mashed potatoes, sauces, juices).

Diseases and pests

Tomatoes belong to plants that require special care and protection from pathogens and pests. To enjoy good tomato fruits, you need to spend a lot of time on them and monitor the plants, and in case of damage, react immediately to eliminate the threat.

The most common are fungal diseases, but pay also attention to diseases of viral origin (including green mosaic), physiological and bacterial diseases. WITH viral diseases It is useless to fight, so infected plants should be removed, or better yet, burned.

Physiological diseases are caused by improperly selected growing locations, as well as improper care of plants.

Diseases

• Alternaria tomato blight is one of the many fungal diseases. Fruits, shoots and leaves are affected. Changes will occur on the bushes in the form of numerous spots. The leaves of affected plants dry out and the fruits rot. If the first changes appear, spray with a fungicidal agent.
• Late blight – fungal disease, leads to drying of leaves and damage to fruits. Gray spots are visible on the leaves, and brown spots on the fruits. As a result of the changes, tomato fruits lose their nutritional value. To combat, spraying with special means is used.
• Gray rot - on affected plants, tomato fruits rot. Infected tomatoes and the entire plantation should be sprayed with a fungicidal agent.
• Anthracnose - as a result of the disease, the entire plant is affected; watery spots on the fruits lead to rotting. If the plant is damaged, it should be sprayed with a fungicide.
• Septoria - numerous, small, brown spots appear on the affected plant. The disease is treated with a fungicidal agent.
• Bacterial canker of tomato - the disease causes plants to wilt. If the disease develops, it is necessary to remove and burn infected plants.

Pests

• Aphids - an insecticide is used against pests.
• Greenhouse whitefly is a pest that attacks plants in greenhouses.
• Spider mites are small arachnids that feed on plant sap.

In addition, leafmining flies and thrips appear on tomatoes.

Concluding remarks

Tomatoes are vegetables that have a positive effect on health. It is worth growing tomatoes in open ground, in a greenhouse; you can also grow them in a polycarbonate greenhouse, on a balcony and terrace. Tomatoes should be grown sunny place, protected from the wind, with fertile soil. Plants should also be protected from diseases to which they are susceptible when exposed to excess moisture. Choose proven and popular varieties that are used in amateur cultivation in open ground.