Construction of semi-buried cellars step by step instructions with ultrasonic scanner. Overhead design. Advantages of a semi-buried cellar

Although the functions of a cellar and a refrigerator are very similar, any housewife will argue that it is very difficult to manage in a country house without a cellar, both in winter and in winter. summer period. The cellar has a much larger volume; it is easy to conveniently place tubs of pickles, jars of jam and salads, and vegetables stored for the winter. Often the basement of a house is used as a cellar, but it is more rational to build an underground vegetable storage separately. One of the most popular options is a semi-buried cellar. Original finish can give such a structure an attractive appearance, make it an element that decorates landscape design plot.

Cellar and basement - what are their similarities and differences

The basement is located under the first floor country house, usually it has several rooms that are used as a storage room, workshop, laundry room, garage. One of these blocks can be used to store canned food and vegetables.

The purpose of the cellar is more specific - it is used to store food. It is also equipped specifically: racks with shelves, notches, and stands are built in it. It is mandatory to equip the cellar with a ventilation system; to ensure better preservation of certain types of products, a glacier can be installed in the cellar.

The cellar can be located under any outbuilding or on a separate site. Building a cellar is not a very difficult task, if you have the skills to perform the most basic installation work You can easily handle it yourself.

Constructed as separate room the cellar is given a look that matches general style the design of the site, the shape and design of the ground part can be very diverse - super-modern or reminiscent of an ancient castle, with stonework, a heavy door with bronze bolts.

DIY semi-buried cellar

Since the cellar is called semi-buried, it can be assumed that part of it is underground, the other is an above-ground structure. The degree of depth is regulated by proximity to the groundwater surface. If possible, the cellar can be deepened to 2.5 m. The height of the ground part, called the vestibule, can be as tall as a person and have small size in the event that it plays the role of an input and is purely decorative element. If the vestibule is used as a summer kitchen, guest house or dining room, then the ceiling height should be close to the standard 2.5 m for such premises.

Before starting construction, it is advisable to develop a detailed construction plan and think about what materials can be used for this. Suitable foundation materials include: stone or brick, concrete, wood.

To build a durable floor in the cellar, you can fill its bottom with concrete or trample it with clay. Wooden beams can be used as flooring material. Each part of the building must be covered with thermal insulation materials; the best option is to use mineral wool, bitumen or polymer materials, but if desired, you can get by with clay lubricant.

The construction of a cellar involves connecting its tiers using a hatch, the dimensions of which should be planned in accordance with the dimensions of the container in which the products will be lowered to the lower tier. In order for the owners to go downstairs, a staircase similar in design to a stepladder is installed in the cellar. If heating the above-ground part of a semi-buried cellar is not planned, then the upper part must be equipped with a hatch.

The best time to carry out construction work is summer.
The optimal place to locate a free-standing cellar is on a hill.
When planning a cellar, the door should be located on the north side.
If the groundwater is shallow, the cellar must be waterproofed.
We must not forget about the need for equipment ventilation system.
Each of the wooden parts of the cellar must be treated with high-quality antiseptic impregnation.

Stages of underground construction

Having marked the dimensions on the territory, they dig a foundation pit for the cellar; its dimensions should exceed the dimensions of the sides of the planned structure by about 1 m - this will allow the necessary communications to be laid outside and external installations to be carried out waterproofing works. The walls of the cellar can be built from concrete blocks, stone, and bricks. When using wood, it must be treated with an antiseptic.

Monolithic concrete is used as a base; to fill it, formwork is constructed and reinforcing mesh is laid. To ensure proper protection of joints and corners, roofing felt is used. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed and the walls are plastered with cement mortar on both sides. The solution includes a bitumen mass to give the material water-repellent properties.

If it is desirable to complete construction in a short time, then instead monolithic concrete You can use asbestos cement sheets. They are fixed to a wooden crate. External side structures are coated with bitumen mastic.

To protect against the harmful effects of groundwater, it will be necessary to install a drainage layer of fine stone, broken bricks, gravel, and crushed stone. An option should be provided for connecting the drainage layer with a drainage well dug near the cellar.

When building a cellar on a slope, you will need to build small ditches on the slope to drain water. To protect the base of the structure, a moisture-proof cushion is constructed: a layer of broken brick or crushed stone is poured with melted bitumen.

How to make ventilation in the cellar

As with any storage facility, the cellar will require the creation of a high-quality ventilation system. You can get by with the most primitive option and install just one galvanized pipe with a diameter of 0.1 - 0.15 m. One of its ends should be located indoors, the other - outdoors.

A more advanced option is a two-pipe system. The lower end of one of them should be located under the ceiling - for exhaust, the other - above the floor, it is through it that fresh air will be supplied. If condensation appears in a cellar equipped in this way, it will be in minimal quantities.

We are building a cellar

The construction of the above-ground part should begin when the ceiling and ceiling of the cellar, clay castle, and backfill are completed. It is made wider than the lower part, so as to provide protection for the underground in the event of severe frosts or active snow melting.

The cellar can have different dimensions and design - it can be a small vestibule, technically necessary to protect the hatch, or a spacious summer kitchen or workshop. If the cellar will serve as a vestibule, then the main requirement for its construction will be the installation of a durable, tight-fitting door with waterproofing. The construction of a summer kitchen will require a more serious approach to landscaping. In particular, the issue of quality should initially be resolved roofing materials, wall cladding and thermal insulation.

Interior decoration and arrangement of the cellar includes:

flooring,
plastering or finishing wall surfaces with other materials,
construction of shelving, aisles,
installation of boxes or boxes for storing vegetables.

How to design the above-ground part of a semi-buried cellar

You can look at the design of the building on the Internet - it’s very easy to find many different options. If the above-ground part of the cellar is summer cuisine, then its design must correspond to the design style of all other buildings on the site.

A vestibule cellar may have:

Very original design walls

unusual roof configuration

beautifully shaped windows and doors.

Although the functions of a cellar and a refrigerator are very similar, any housewife will argue that it is very difficult to manage in a country house without a cellar, both in winter and in summer. The cellar has a much larger volume; it is easy to conveniently place tubs of pickles, jars of jam and salads, and vegetables stored for the winter. Often the basement of a house is used as a cellar, but it is more rational to build an underground vegetable storage separately. One of the most popular options is a semi-buried cellar. Original finishing can give such a structure an attractive appearance and make it an element that decorates the landscape design of the site.

Cellar and basement - what are their similarities and differences

The basement is located under the first floor of a country house; it usually has several rooms that are used as a storage room, workshop, laundry room, or garage. One of these blocks can be used to store canned food and vegetables.

The cellar can be located under any outbuilding or on a separate site. Building a cellar is not a very difficult task; if you have the skills to perform the most basic installation work, you can easily cope with it yourself.

When constructed as a separate room, the cellar is given a look that matches the general design style of the site, the shape and design of the above-ground part can be very diverse - super-modern or reminiscent of an ancient castle, with stonework, a heavy door with bronze bolts.

DIY semi-buried cellar

Since the cellar is called semi-buried, it can be assumed that part of it is underground, the other is an above-ground structure. The degree of depth is regulated by proximity to the groundwater surface. If possible, the cellar can be deepened to 2.5 m. The height of the ground part, called the vestibule, can be as tall as a person and have a small size if it plays the role of an entrance and is a purely decorative element. If the vestibule is used as a summer kitchen, guest house or dining room, then the ceiling height should be close to the standard 2.5 m for such premises.

To build a durable floor in the cellar, you can fill its bottom with concrete or trample it with clay. Wooden beams can be used as flooring material. Each part of the structure should be covered with thermal insulation materials; the best option is to use mineral wool, bitumen or polymer materials, but if desired, you can get by with clay lubricant.

The best time to carry out construction work is summer.
The optimal place to locate a free-standing cellar is on a hill.
When planning a cellar, the door should be located on the north side.
If the groundwater is shallow, the cellar must be waterproofed.
We must not forget about the need for ventilation system equipment.
Each of the wooden parts of the cellar must be treated with high-quality antiseptic impregnation.

Stages of underground construction

Having marked the dimensions on the territory, they dig a foundation pit for the cellar; its dimensions should exceed the dimensions of the sides of the planned structure by about 1 m - this will allow the necessary communications to be laid outside and external waterproofing work to be performed. The walls of the cellar can be built from concrete blocks, stone, and bricks. When using wood, it must be treated with an antiseptic.

If it is desirable to complete construction in a short time, then asbestos cement sheets can be used instead of monolithic concrete. They are fixed to a wooden crate. The outer side of the structure is coated with bitumen mastic.

How to make ventilation in the cellar

We are building a cellar

The cellar can have different dimensions and design - it can be a small vestibule, technically necessary to protect the hatch, or a spacious summer kitchen or workshop. If the cellar will serve as a vestibule, then the main requirement for its construction will be the installation of a durable, tight-fitting door with waterproofing. The construction of a summer kitchen will require a more serious approach to landscaping. In particular, the issue of high-quality roofing materials, wall cladding and their thermal insulation should initially be resolved.

Interior decoration and arrangement of the cellar includes:

flooring,
plastering or finishing wall surfaces with other materials,
construction of shelving, aisles,
installation of boxes or boxes for storing vegetables.

How to design the above-ground part of a semi-buried cellar

You can look at the design of the building on the Internet - it’s very easy to find many different options. If the above-ground part of the cellar is a summer kitchen, then its design must correspond to the design style of all other buildings on the site.

A vestibule cellar may have:

very original wall design

unusual roof configuration

beautifully shaped windows and doors.

The cellar is a necessary structure for any summer resident, because harvested need to be stored somewhere. Such buildings are optimal for this purpose: vegetables, fruits, and preparations do not get lost in them taste qualities, do not dry out and do not absorb odors. It’s not so rare for people to build a semi-buried cellar with their own hands to store wine, for example.

Before construction, you will need to choose the type of cellar based on the degree of depth.

Deepening the storage

Based on this feature, the following types of structures are distinguished:

ground;
semi-recessed;
buried.

Typically, the type of construction is selected based on the conditions on the site. The type of soil, the level of groundwater and the selected building materials are of no small importance.

It is best if the cellar is deep.

It will be easiest to maintain optimal temperature for storing food.

If it is impossible to build it due to nearby soil waters, then you should stop at a storage shed. Such ground-based structures can be installed anywhere, even in lowlands.
The advantage of semi-buried storage facilities is that they are relatively undemanding to the soil.. To build them, it is enough to dig a pit with a depth of 0.7/1 m.

Cellar structures

Previously, free-standing cellars were the most common. Now that the plots are no different large area, more popular are economical buildings equipped for residential building, garage, barn, etc.
It is profitable to build a glacier cellar with your own hands. Although it is difficult to construct, it is versatile and can provide the highest quality food preservation.
Blocked cellars, consisting of two rooms, are popular. They are built by agreement between the owners of neighboring plots, on their border. For such construction you need 20/30% less materials, in addition, you can save space.
The simplest structures used since ancient times are not ignored: earthen pits and trenches, piles, underground cellars, semi-basements, etc.

What you need to consider first

First of all, you need to choose a location for construction.

Cellar space

Decide whether the storage will be freestanding or built-in. Often, the second option is more appropriate. The cellar will not take up extra space, will not require additional insulation, and entry into it will be convenient and quick.

Note!
The best place for a separate structure is a low hillock.
The cellar on it will be dry, due to its location far from groundwater, and melt and storm water will not stagnate there.

If you are planning to build a new house, then first you need to build a storage facility and only then build the building itself. Otherwise, the work will become more complicated and the cost of building a cellar will increase.

About soil type and groundwater

Before building a cellar, it is important to determine the type of soil.

The most common types of soil are:

sandy loam;
sandy;
loams;
clay;
peat;
quicksand;
swampy.

It is most difficult if the construction site is swampy or waterlogged.

In this case, the building must be built on a gravel-sand bed to isolate it from water.
Peat best type soil for above-ground and semi-buried cellars. In particular, it is optimal for bunding. In addition, peat reduces spoilage of food products, especially vegetables.
Quicksand is a highly heaving soil. This is a mixture of loam, sandy loam or fine sand. To avoid problems, such soil must be replaced with sand.
Sandy soils are perfect for building a cellar. They are not heaving and quickly allow moisture to pass through them into the deeper layers of the soil.

Construction of a cellar

First, clear the construction site of vegetation and turf.
Next, level the area.
After this, you need to mark the place for the pit. Its diagonals should be the same.

Digging a pit

When digging holes in loose and sandy soil, the walls of the pit must be equipped with slopes. This way you will prevent them from falling off.
If groundwater is located close, it is necessary to carefully look outside. The hole will need to be dug larger than the cellar itself. You should add 50 cm on each side.
The instructions recommend digging the pit by hand, as an excavator will disrupt the integrity of the soil.

Note!
Decide ahead of time where to put the excavated soil.
For example, you can do this.
Scatter the fertile top soil in the garden or vegetable garden, the clay will be useful for backfilling, the remaining soil will be used for embankment.

Waterproofing of the structure

There are two types of moisture-proof materials - anti-pressure and non-pressure.

The first type is used when ground moisture reaches the floor plane.
The second type is used when groundwater does not penetrate into the basement.

A little about how.

The brick walls of the basement must first be plastered with a mortar containing liquid glass. Then they are coated with bitumen mastic, onto which panels of roofing felt, waterproofing or other similar material are glued overlapping.
Concrete walls can be immediately coated with bitumen and covered with roll insulation.
If the cellar is wooden, then first the logs or beams are impregnated with an antiseptic composition and then covered with bitumen mastic.

To protect the structure from groundwater and storm water, drainage around the cellar can be used as anti-pressure waterproofing. The perforated pipes of the system (drains) must be connected to a storage well located near the cellar.
Protection will be enhanced by backfilling the gap between the walls of the pit and basement. They are made using a mixture of sand and clay.
To relieve water pressure, a blind area 1/1.5 m wide can be built around the cellar.

Construction of walls, floors and ceilings

The walls of the cellar can be made of bricks with cement-sand-clay mortar. The thickness of the walls (one or half a block) depends on the type of ceiling of the structure.
Rubble stones can also be used for construction - sandstone, granite, slate. Limestone should not be used, because it will collapse in a solution of cement, lime and sand.

Note!
A very good option if you need a small cellar, but don’t want to spend time and effort on building it, is to purchase a ready-made plastic cellar (caisson).
Such monolithic structures often already equipped with everything necessary - stairs, ventilation systems, shelves.

Floors can be made from broken bricks, gravel or expanded clay bound with clay mortar. Such a coating must be compacted. Waterproofing the floor from two layers of bitumen and clay, covered with roofing felt, will also not hurt.
Not a bad option - flooring in a rammed earth vault. This will help neutralize unpleasant odors and will help maintain the optimal temperature in the room.
The ceiling of the storage room can be covered with clapboard, thin boards, or sheets of dry plaster. Odorless plastic will also work.
If you are building a cellar under any heated building, then it is not necessary to insulate it. A separate storage facility or located under an unheated building will have to be thermally insulated. Walls and floors can be insulated with foam plastic or mineral wool. Sawdust is suitable for covering.

Floors

The ceiling of the storage area located under the house must be flat. You can support it on beams or continental soil. In a free-standing structure, the ceiling can also be gable.
For a flat ceiling base, it is best to use ready-made slabs (PKZH). Be sure to lay boards under them to arrange the ceiling.
The slabs must be welded at their ridges and supported on top of a beam (T-beam). The continental soil will serve as support below. This way you will reduce the load on the walls. In addition, water seeping through the flooring will escape.
The sheathing of a gable floor can be made flat or angular. The voids should be filled with insulating material.
When arranging the floor, PKZh slabs can be replaced with sheets of thick flat slate. Before doing this, you need to place a reliable support under them. Be sure to cover all joints with heated bitumen or cement-sand mortar with liquid glass.

Ventilation system

Simultaneously with waterproofing, it is necessary to arrange ventilation in the storage. The best option– supply and exhaust system.
For it you need to make two air ducts, which are through holes in the ceiling and near the floor.
You need to insert supply (lower) and exhaust (upper) pipes made of plastic, asbestos cement or metal into them. Don't forget to securely fix and seal them.
Cover the air duct openings with curtains. This way you can control the temperature in the storage and control the ventilation in it.

How to make storage convenient

After all the work described, you should think about the door, shelves and lighting in the storage. In addition, if the cellar is separate, it appearance need to fit harmoniously into the landscape of the site.
It is better to make a double door in the cellar. The outer part must be made of metal. Indoor unit Can be wooden or hardwood. For example, oak.
The best materials for shelves and boxes are non-rusting metals, such as aluminum or hardwood. To make it easier to repair the cellar yourself later, it is advisable that the equipment be removable.
It is recommended to protect the outside of the storage facility with an embankment of layered and compacted soil. The best material there will be peat for this. You can decorate the structure with vegetation, for example, berry bushes. Trees should not be planted near the cellar. Their roots, growing, can destroy the walls of the structure.
In the cellar, to optimize space, install several racks for installing shelves. They can be used to store canned food. For fresh vegetables you will need to make lattice bins. Installing a thermostat will help you monitor the temperature.

The staircase leading down to the cellar should be comfortable and safe. To save storage space, it can be made steep and equipped with handrails.

Wiring

It would be optimal in the cellar electric type lighting. Fuel-burning lamps and lanterns will be left in storage bad smell which foods can absorb.
Electrical wiring in cellars is usually external. It is advisable to use double insulated copper cables.
Lamps in the room must be made of moisture-resistant materials and covered with protective caps. It is best to place them in dry places.
The switch must be mounted at the entrance. Its height should be 1.5 meters. It is strictly forbidden to use sockets in cellars.

Conclusion

You can build a food storage facility yourself. The main thing is to choose the right location, materials and design of the structure. The easiest way to equip a monolithic cellar with your own hands is made of plastic. To understand the topic more deeply, you can watch the video in this article.

The basement under the house is not the best the best place for long-term storage of workpieces. The temperature there is elevated, and closer to spring the vegetables in it will become flabby. Therefore, sooner or later, novice homeowners have a reasonable question: “How to make a free-standing cellar with your own hands?”

Types of cellars

In essence, a cellar is a fairly deep hole in the ground with a reinforced ceiling and walls.

The depth of such storage can be different:

deep-seated: are completely underground to the entire height of the cellar; maintaining a comfortable temperature for vegetables and preservation at any time in such rooms is not difficult - a layer of soil reliably protects them from heat and cold;
top (ground) cellars: they can be erected on any type of site, but most often such structures are used when groundwater is close to each other, when it is not possible to deepen the cellar too much; to protect such structures from heat and cold, they are thermally insulated by backfilling with soil (embankment);
semi-recessed: something between high and deep storage; its lower part is buried in the soil, and its upper part is located above the ground.

When choosing the type of cellar, you need to focus on the depth of groundwater. They should not rise higher than 50-60 cm from the bottom of the cellar.

It is not easy to determine the groundwater level on your own, without the help of specialists. You can navigate to neighboring areas. Go around your neighbors and ask them what types of cellars are used in this area. More precise measurements can be done by drilling test wells. Before measuring the water level, the finished well should stand for 1-2 days.

Based on their location, all underground storage facilities can be divided into 2 types:

freestanding
wall: in order to save free space, it is allowed to attach the cellar to the walls of sheds, garages and other outbuildings; Cellars can also be located inside such premises; but in order to avoid excessive heating of the air, it is not recommended to attach the cellar to heated rooms.

Selecting a location

The safety of products and the durability of the structure itself largely depend on the location chosen for construction.

A cellar should not be built:

on open area, illuminated by the sun - it is better to choose a place in the shade
close large trees, which with their roots can damage the structure

The highest possible location for the building is selected. In this case, the likelihood of flooding by groundwater when it rises in the spring is reduced. Plus, rainwater or melt water will not accumulate on such a site.

The vegetable storage facility is located on an elevated area

To avoid the collapse of buildings, the cellar pit should be located no closer than 0.5 m from the foundation of the buildings. When building a vegetable storage facility under an unheated room, you will not only save space on the site, but also ensure ease of use - you will no longer have to clear snow every time you go for food supplies. The walls and roof of the building will create additional protection from cold winds and scorching heat.

When building a ground cellar, the exit is located on the shady side. If this is not possible, you will need more thorough thermal insulation of the vestibule and the entrance door.

Construction of a deep cellar

The construction of any type of underground storage facility should not be carried out in the spring, when groundwater rises too close to the surface, but towards the end of summer, in August. All work must be carried out in dry weather. When it rains, the pit must be covered with film.

After choosing the storage location, they begin digging a pit. The depth of a full cellar should be 2-2.5 m.
When preparing the pit, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the floor, as well as the height of the bedding (cushion) of crushed stone, which serves as protection from moisture. The thickness of this layer is 25-30 cm.
The optimal size of vegetable storage is 8-12 square meters. m. For a small family, 4-5 square meters is enough. m. 0.5-1 m is added to the estimated length and width for equipping walls, waterproofing and arranging a clay castle.
Digging a pit is done manually - an excavator can damage the edges of the pit, and the thermal insulation of the storage facility will be damaged. The earth is removed in layers, carefully leveling the edges.
In case of loose soil, it is better to make a hole with a slope (between the floor and the top, the difference in each direction should be 30-50 cm). In this case, the earth will crumble less.
In the corners it is better to immediately hammer in supports from the channel. Floor beams will be laid on it in the future.
Some of the soil will be needed to fill the top of the cellar, so do not carry the soil too far.
After reaching the required depth, the pit must stand for some time - you need to make sure that it will not fill with groundwater. If water has slightly seeped into the hole, the points of its penetration are sealed with clay. In case of severe flooding, further construction, unfortunately, will be impossible.

There is no point in hoping that water from a flooded cellar can be pumped out every spring. You will only wash out the channels, constantly expanding them, and every year more and more water will arrive. If the dug pit begins to flood, it is better to cover it with earth and build an above-ground cellar.

Preparing a clay castle

The best floors in the cellar are adobe. Our ancestors knew about the ability of clay to retain moisture and not let it into the room. To this day, the clay castle is one of best options foundation protection even during the construction of residential buildings. By the way, leaks in the basements of buildings erected in the 18th and 19th centuries arise only after the laying of new modern communications and the destruction of adobe surfaces.

A clay castle is a layer of clay 20-25 cm thick, laid along the contour of the building, covering the perimeter of the walls. Ideal option may be a combination of modern and traditional methods protection. First, rolled bitumen material (for example, roofing felt) glued with heated bitumen is laid on the floors, they are filled with cement, and a clay castle is built on top.

The clay must first be soaked in sufficient water for several days. If there is an excess of sand, 10-20% lime is added to it. It is better to compact the clay in the formwork, filling it in small layers. To compact it, it is trampled with feet, turning it over with a shovel from time to time.

If a natural layer of clay is found at the bottom of a hole prepared for a cellar, it must be dug up with a shovel, including an area slightly wider than the intended walls. Then the floors are thoroughly crushed with feet, dug up again with a shovel and trampled down.

The walls are also insulated with a clay lock. To do this, the space between the brick or concrete wall filled with carefully compacted clay. The thickness of such a lock is from 25 cm. It is more convenient to fill the space with clay as the walls are built. It is compacted using a piece of log or a special tamper in the form of a flat, heavy base and a handle attached to it.

An ordinary sand bedding (cushion), which absorbs water well, is undesirable for adobe floors. It is better to replace it with a layer of crushed stone, spilled with bitumen, which is covered with compacted clay on top.

Ventilation

Regardless of the type of cellar, ventilation must be provided in it. Indeed, in addition to the moisture coming through the capillaries from the soil, vegetables and fruits stored indoors will also release water during respiration.

There are two ventilation ducts in the cellar. The first exhaust is located above the ceiling with an outlet to the outside to a height of 10-15 cm (see photo). The end of the pipe located outdoors should rise 0.5 m above the ground.

When located above the cellar of an outbuilding (garage, shed, etc.), the exhaust duct is led to the roof of the building above the ridge. The pipe should rise 0.5 m above it.

The second supply channel, which serves to supply fresh air, is installed at a distance of 20-25 cm from the floor. The supply and exhaust pipes are mounted only on opposite walls. Their minimum length is 2.5-3 m. In order for the circulation of air masses to be uniform, the diameter of the channels must be the same.

They are laid already during the construction of walls. To do this, special holes are provided in the masonry or concrete into which pipes are inserted. The channels are equipped with canopies on top that protect against precipitation and the penetration of rodents.

Too large, as well as a small diameter, is undesirable. In the first case, the room will be too cold, in the second, the small size of the channel will not provide sufficient air exchange. Ideally, the pipes should not have any bends. Any expansion or contraction is unacceptable.

The size of the pipes is calculated depending on the dimensions of the room. For every 1 m2 of a standard 2-meter depth cellar, 26 cm2 of channel cross-section should be provided. If the storage depth is large, the diameter of the pipes is increased proportionally.

To prevent water vapor escaping from freezing, the channels are insulated at the exit points with soil. You can put on a casing lined with heat-insulating material on the outside.

In large vegetable stores, forced ventilation is installed. In the simplest systems, a low-power electric fan is installed in the hood for this purpose. In more complex versions, it is installed in both the supply and exhaust ducts.

IN winter period inlet openings must be carefully covered with cloth.

Wall decoration

The most popular materials for their finishing are concrete, brick or concrete blocks. To pour concrete, formwork is prepared into which a reinforcement cage is built. All concrete works must be carried out within one day. Otherwise, cold bridges will form at the joints, through which heat will escape. Such joints are dangerous and due to an excess of surface tension, the wall will turn out to be fragile.

During construction brick walls the masonry is laid in one brick. A clay-sand or cement mixture is used as a solution. The outside walls are waterproofed with a double layer of bitumen and roofing felt. The remaining space between the soil and the wall is filled with earth and compacted.

The walls can be finished with asbestos-cement slabs. It is not advisable to use wood. Its service life in a damp room will be short. If there is a need for this, you can use the method that was used by our ancestors. Pegs are driven into the corners of the walls, into which boards or slabs, cut to length and dried for 1-2 years, are laid.

Cellar cover

To make the floor, you can use concrete, wood, or a combination of both. Fix the plank ceiling and lay insulation in between wooden beams much more convenient and simpler.

In this case:

Roofing felt is laid over the walls.
Then, at a distance of 0.5 m from each other, logs or beams of 150x100 mm timber, pre-treated with an antiseptic, are laid.
Next, a flooring is prepared from boards (slabs), in which space is left for a hatch (manhole) measuring 80x80 cm. After laying, it is coated with a layer of clay and then covered with soil.
The wooden flooring is covered with a layer of waterproofing. You can use thick polyethylene as it. The film is spread so that it lies on the ground.
Now we lay the reinforcement in the form of a lattice, prepare the formwork and fill it with concrete 4-5 cm thick.
After the concrete has completely dried (you must wait at least a week), a double insulated, tightly fitted lid is attached to the hatch. Brick is laid around its perimeter or concrete is poured.
When used as a cover concrete slabs they are laid on metal beams. The seams between the slabs are sealed with cement mortar; then this overlap is filled with bitumen. Roofing felt is spread on top of it, and then a layer of insulation.
It is not advisable to use mineral wool as insulation - in a damp room, over time it will form clumps and completely lose its properties. thermal insulation properties. The best option is polystyrene foam. The joints between its sheets are sealed with sealant or adhesive tape.
If the underground storage facility is built separately, to protect it from the sun in summer and snow in winter, it is better to provide a small building with a gable roof (cellar) above the cellar. Its door is installed on the north side. Such a room can be used as a place to store gardening equipment.

For reliable heat protection, the walls of the cellar are buried 60-70 cm into the ground, and a blind area of clay and crushed stone is made on the outside.

Ceiling insulation

To ensure optimal temperature in the room, the ceiling must be thermally insulated. To do this, a lattice structure (lathing) made of timber is attached to the beams, between which foam plastic or any other material is laid thermal insulation material, does not absorb moisture. To secure it, it is sheathed with boards or fiberboard, which are screwed to the beams.

Before installing the insulation, an overlapping polyethylene film is attached to the ceiling. This can be done with simple double-sided tape. All joints in the insulation are carefully sealed. Then it is covered again with film. Plaster or boards can be used as a finishing coating.

Construction of a horse cellar

The cost of this design is quite low compared to the underground option. And it’s more convenient to use such storage - it is equipped with a regular door, and you won’t have to climb down the stairs. However, maintaining the optimal temperature without going deep into the ground is not easy. For this purpose, a special building design is provided.

Types of horse cellars

By type, horse cellars are divided into:

storage sheds with embankment: simple structures made of boards or logs, reminiscent of a hut; to maintain a comfortable temperature, such buildings are covered with a sufficiently large layer of earth on top
a horse cellar without embankment: its design is similar to that of a conventional outbuilding; To maintain a comfortable temperature, the walls of such a building are made double with a layer of thermal insulation laid between them

Construction of a cellar with embankment

Unlike a deep-seated cellar, most of the upper cellar rises above the surface. To maintain the required temperature in the room, it will require additional thermal insulation.

Such a structure is erected in the form of a hut, the roof of which rests on strong supports made of logs.

At the first stage, a pit with a depth of 0.5-0.6 m is prepared. The excavated soil is left nearby - it will be useful for embanking. The floors are covered with crushed stone and compacted tightly. A clay castle is placed on top (more on this below).
When choosing soil from a pit, it is better to immediately cut a staircase of several steps from the soil. Subsequently, it is finished with reinforced concrete, brick or a wide, durable board. It is advisable to install steel corners into the edges of concrete steps to prevent concrete from spilling out.
Floor supports are installed in advance. To protect the tree from moisture, part of the logs that will go deeper into the ground are covered with bitumen or fired.
After digging the log supports into the ground to a depth of 50-60 cm, they are tied at the top with long poles.
At the stage of wall construction, it is necessary to take care of ventilation. The principle of its design is similar to ventilation installed in deep cellars. The exhaust duct is installed near the ceiling, and the supply duct is installed on the opposite wall just above the floor.
The wall at the end is sheathed with two rows of boards, coated twice with bitumen and sandwiched with a layer of roofing material.
The roof ridge is prepared from edged boards of sufficient thickness, covered with roofing felt. All cracks are caulked with moss.
The ceiling must be as strong as possible so that it can withstand the earthen embankment. Do not forget that in addition to the pressure of the soil layer, the roof will also have a significant snow load in winter.
The entrance must be equipped with a small vestibule, which serves as additional protection against heat loss. The door leading to the vegetable storage area is carefully insulated.
To drain water around such a storage facility, a ditch 0.5 m deep is made. A blind area 1 m wide with a slope from the cellar is also provided along the perimeter of the cellar.

If the water passes close to the surface of the earth, an above-ground cellar can be built on an area with topping.

Embankment

The earthen backfill (embankment) must reliably retain cold in summer and heat in winter. Her optimal thickness– 35-45 cm.
Before bunding, the ceiling is covered with a 5-centimeter layer of clay-straw mixture. A thick film of polyethylene or roofing felt is laid on top of it.
The soil, especially at the top of the floor, may settle over time. To avoid the need for additional embankment, it is necessary to provide a special fence to protect against soil sliding along the slopes.
To strengthen the embankment, it must be immediately covered with turf or seeded. low growing grass, for example, lawn. The intertwined roots of the plants will prevent the soil from sliding down.

Like any other building, a horse cellar can be made visually attractive by decorating it to your liking. The design of the site will only benefit from this.

The main stages of building a cellar without embanking walls

Full-walled horse cellars take up too much space on the site. In recent years, land owners have found another solution. Instead of embankment, they began to build cellars with double walls.

Outwardly, they look like ordinary buildings. However, due to the massive walls lined with insulation, such a storage shed maintains a comfortable temperature for vegetables. In the literature it is recommended to insulate the space between the walls with polystyrene foam, sawdust or expanded clay.

Only one- or gable roof such a vegetable storage. The thickness of the layer of backfilled soil is up to half a meter. Just as in the previous case, a vestibule is provided in such a storage shed. The door leading to the storage room is carefully insulated.

When constructing such a vegetable storage facility:

The earth is removed to a depth of 0.5 m.
The floors are covered with crushed stone, covered with bitumen, and then a clay castle is prepared.
Bricks are sunk into wet clay so that a minimum gap is formed between them.
The lower part of the walls is also laid with bricks. The masonry should rise above the surface to the height of the spade bayonet. Sand, clay and lime are used as masonry mortar. Its proportions are 3:1:0.3. Double walls can be made entirely of brick or stone.
The ceiling and walls are sheathed with 2 rows of thick-walled 40- or 50-mm boards, and earth is filled in between them and compacted tightly.
The walls are coated twice with bitumen. A layer of roofing material is fixed on top of them.
The roof can be single or gable. Before backfilling, it is covered with roofing felt.
Ventilation must be provided in the cellar.
A drainage ditch is laid around the cellar.

Such a structure goes into the ground to a depth of about a meter with a wall height of about 2 m. The entrance is through the vestibule, and the door is located flush with the ground. The second, insulated door provides passage directly into the cellar, where you go down the stairs. Such structures are erected in areas where the groundwater level is no more than 1.5-2 m.

The procedure for performing the work is in many ways similar to the stages of building an above-ground cellar:

To create a layer of thermal insulation, the roof of the building and the upper part of the walls rising above the surface are also covered with earth.
The overlap is made from a slab aligned on the sides, which is covered with clay. Roofing material glued with hot bitumen is laid on top.

The walls are built from brick and concrete. It is not advisable to use cinder concrete in wet areas - it will quickly become unusable.

Cellar made of reinforced concrete rings

The maximum diameter of reinforced concrete rings is 2-2.5 m, so with their help you can build only a small vegetable storage. But for a small family such a room will be quite enough.

To build a cellar, 2-3 rings will be enough, which are placed one on top of the other in the pit. The height of the rings can vary - it can be equal to 0.4 and 0.6 m, and higher ones are made with a height of 0.8 and 1 m. From these, 2-3 rings of the required height are selected so that after the construction of the storage facility an adult person will be in it was able to stand up in full height, and there was little space left above his head.
It is better to buy rings that have locks. Such a connection will be stronger, plus it will be easier to seal. It is also better to buy a ready-made cover made of reinforced concrete with a manhole.
Before immersing the rings in the pit for waterproofing, they are treated twice on the outside with bitumen.
To install them, it is better to use a loader or winch.
After lowering the rings into the pit, all joints are coated with concrete and then waterproofed with bitumen mastic.
Another option is gradual excavation of soil under the rings. After removing the earth, they will gradually sink down under their own weight.
If groundwater is close, it is better to purchase one lower ring with a bottom or concrete the floor, having previously filled and compacted a clay castle at the bottom of the pit to cover the perimeter of the walls.
A hole is prepared in the well cover for the ventilation pipes.
It would be wiser to make a small cellar above the storage - it will protect it from extreme heat and winds.

To drain water around the perimeter of the cellar, a drainage is prepared - a ditch 0.4 m deep, filled with crushed stone.

If groundwater passes close, a cellar made of concrete rings can be made shallow. That is, bury only part of the rings in the ground. The top and side walls of the storage facility, as in the case of high cellars, are covered with soil (banked).

Cellar in the garage. Built to last!

Ready-made structures for cellars

The industry produces ready-made sealed structures for cellars from the most different materials: from plastic to metal. It is undesirable to use metal containers - they do not store heat well.

Installing such a structure is easy. A pit of the required size is prepared under it, into which a sealed container is lowered. The space between it and the ground is filled with earth and compacted tightly. If desired, the complete installation of such a cellar can be carried out by the manufacturer.

When groundwater rises high, lightweight structures made of plastic or metal can easily be squeezed to the surface. Therefore, they must be made heavier by covering them with a sufficiently thick layer of soil.

You can see with your own eyes the process of laying a plastic cellar in the following video:

WP_Query Object ( => Array ( => 1 => rand) => Array ( => 1 => rand => [m] => [p] => 0 => => => => => 0 => => => => 0 => => => => 0 => 0 => 0 [w] => 0 => => => => => => => => => 0 => = > => [s] => => => => => => => Array () => Array () => Array () => Array () => Array () => Array () => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => => => 1 => 1 => 1 => 1 => => => 50 => =>) => WP_Tax_Query Object ( => Array () => AND => Array () => Array () => wp_posts => ID ) => WP_Meta_Query Object ( => Array () => => => => => => Array () => Array () =>) => => SELECT SQL_CALC_FOUND_ROWS wp_posts.ID FROM wp_posts WHERE 1=1 AND wp_posts.post_type = "post" AND (wp_posts.post_status = "publish") ORDER BY RAND() LIMIT 0, 1 => Array ( => WP_Post Object ( => 235 => 2 => 2015-03-27 12: 14:35 => 2015-03-27 08:14:35 =>

So:

Sawdust pad device

Polystyrene foam as wall insulation

So:

Insulation of an old basement

You can now do the insulation of the cellar in the garage correctly. The main thing is to choose the right materials. Take your time and do everything thoughtfully. Then dampness will not bother you for a long time. => How to Insulate a Cellar in a Garage With Your Own Hands => => publish => open => closed => => kak-uteplit-pogreb-v-garazhe-30 => => => 2019-03-19 17:29: 43 => 2019-03-19 13:29:43 => => 0 =>?p=235 => 0 => post => => 2 => raw => index,follow)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 235 => 2 => 2015-03-27 12:14:35 => 2015-03-27 08:14:35 => Insulation of the cellar in the garage Insulation of the cellar in the garage follows be carried out without fail. Not only the safety of the products, but the climate in the room itself will depend on this. After all, dampness will also penetrate there. As a result of this, fungus may begin to appear. It is best to do all the work at the construction stage. But if this has not been done , you can do the work later. However, it will be a little more difficult to do. Today we will look at the question of how to insulate a basement in a garage in detail. You will have the opportunity to watch photos and videos on this topic and choose the desired insulation option. It will also be offered instructions for performing this work.

Insulation of the foundation in the garage cellar

Concrete is the most common material for the construction of any foundation. Properly performed work on pouring or installing blocks, insulation and waterproofing (see), the key to long years of operation of the foundation.

Attention: The foundation in the garage cellar has a very important role and benefit in the household: as a storage place for vegetables and preparations in the winter. It should also be taken into account that. And this is the durability of the entire structure.

Insulating the foundation with foam plastic In order to avoid incurring losses, you should immediately think about insulating the foundation in the cellar. At the first stages of construction, it is worth deciding on the choice of good and high-quality insulation (see).

Measures to insulate the garage floor and foundation

Like the foundation, the subfloor must be protected from external factors. The only danger is groundwater. Having compacted soil at the base, you can easily notice its moisture. And accordingly, there can be no talk of any dry room for storing food. This task is not difficult to cope with by making a cushion of crushed stone and sand. There are several steps to making a good floor foundation:

We apply waterproofing (see) to the lower part of the foundation, taking into account the height of the floor; bitumen mastic or roofing felt are good for this.
We lay it on the ground waterproofing materials, an example would be geotextile dornite or the more affordable and cheap material roofing felt
The first layer is laid with crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm, with good compaction. This layer will create additional drainage. Backfilling will follow, it is best to use river sand, as well as crushed stone, the sand should be well compacted

Attention: The materials used must be dry. So, once you purchase them, you should use them immediately or store them in a dry place.

Cover the sand cushion with a layer of vapor barrier. As a vapor barrier, you can use ordinary construction polyethylene. Laying the vapor barrier should be carried out with allowance for the basement walls.
We install a reinforced mesh on a ready-made base and fill it with concrete or cement-sand mortar. The subfloor is ready.

This base can be used as a finished floor or, if you choose, you can make a sheathing from timber and floorboards.

Insulation of basement walls and hidden communications

When, the main protection will be not only waterproofing and thermal insulation, but also hidden communications. Any basement area of the garage will not receive sunlight. Thus it is worth considering.

We pay attention to the insulation of communications

Attention: The most common method is to lay electrical cables on top of the walls. The isolation of such networks must be completely safe because In basements you can often observe dampness, mold on the walls and fungus. Which can lead to a short circuit and fire.

So:

In order to avoid the consequences of a fire, it is worth treating the foundation walls with polyurea or other septic tanks that will protect against the ingress of groundwater and the accumulation of condensation on the walls and electrical networks.
Another very important factor will be natural or, mainly, artificial ventilation of the room. In the early stages of construction, a 100 mm pipe is installed in the garage. The ventilation device (see) can be installed in an already built garage.
Electrical outlets in basements are not installed in the foundation walls; all wiring must be routed through the ceiling or walls.
, V in this case Polyurethane foam materials are suitable. Polyurethane foam provides protection against freezing and groundwater ingress, and the material has long term service and you will not have to make repairs after a year or two, compared to other building materials.

Insulation of walls, as in separately standing garages, and in combination, is not easy to implement. The biggest danger is groundwater. They adversely affect the base, thereby destroying it. To avoid damage to the foundation, you should resort to a number of rules:

Perform good soil compaction before laying the foundation
Treat all sides of the foundation with antiseptic or polyurea impregnation
Waterproof joints and cold bridges where the foundation adjoins the base of the wall
Place all existing electrical networks in a corrugated box; the wire connections are well insulated

Choosing a material for insulating a basement in a garage

How to insulate a cellar in a garage will be the first question about completing the work. The right approach to choosing material for insulation is the key to long-term operation of the room. Materials must meet the requirements of steam-waterproofing and insulation. The most economical method of insulation will be sawdust:

Insulation scheme

A covering layer of polyethylene film is placed on the base of the floor
The material must be well fixed and have allowances
Floor insulation with hot bitumen
Sawdust pad device
Execute finishing gender

When choosing these materials, it is worth noting the disadvantages: the main material is sawdust, and they, as you know, are not durable.

Attention: High-quality and reliable thermal insulation of the basement in the garage will be treated with polyurea and polyurethane foam. These materials will cope with both insulation and waterproofing of the subfloor. Polyurethane foam and polyurea are the most durable, despite the cost.

The huge advantage of the materials is:

Versatility - these materials are suitable for processing both outside and inside.
Polyurea provides good insulation
Does not require special surface preparation
Lightweight and also warm material, will not bear a load on the base
The materials are easy to work with; anyone can perform insulation, even without skills.
The durability of polyurethane foam and polyurea is 20 years.

There are other materials for insulating the underground floor in the garage:

Expanded clay in relation to bitumen or concrete is good insulation for floor
Resin and peat will serve as cheap insulation.
Basalt fiber and charcoal are also the key to underfloor heating.

Polystyrene foam as wall insulation

An economical option for wall insulation can be polystyrene foam. The material has high qualities low thermal conductivity and lightweight. Polystyrene foam has not only advantages, but also disadvantages. The sheets of material are quite light and after installation they crumble and require a certain amount of cutting.

Technology of wall insulation with foam plastic

The technology itself is not that complicated. It is quite possible to do it yourself. Then the price of the work will be significantly lower. The main thing here is to follow the sequence and properly prepare the surface.

We carry out insulation with foam plastic

Attention: The base plane must first of all be dry and cleared of everything unnecessary. Before work, you should treat the surface with an antiseptic, then you will avoid the formation of fungus on the surface.

So:

Treatment with septic tanks or lining with roofing felt
Installation of wooden sheathing made of 50*50 mm timber on the subfloor walls. The thickness of the beam is selected depending on the sheets of insulation material;
We cut the sheet foam according to the dimensions of the already installed sheathing and place it tightly in the cells. For this, it is best to use polyurethane foam. It will attach the sheet and promote a better fit;
We fix it with construction fungi. To do this, we first make a hole using a hammer drill and then make a connection using plastic mushrooms;
We pass through the resulting gaps and joints polyurethane foam;
We cover the resulting sandwich with a mounting mesh and plaster the surface;
Using polystyrene foam, for complete sealing, we tape the entrance structures.

Insulation with mineral wool and fiberglass

Now let's look at how to insulate a cellar in a garage with this material. Mineral wool and fiberglass sheets are ideal for insulating rooms. Environmentally friendly materials, easy to install and have low thermal conductivity.

We carry out insulation with mineral wool

Attention: Having chosen this material as the basis for insulation, please note Special attention for waterproofing. Mineral wool materials do not tolerate moisture, as a result of which they can settle and begin to rot. With this choice, you should take a serious approach to solving the airtightness of the room (see article).

Fastening the material is done in the same way as foam. Here, though, it will be easier for you to make the joints airtight. After all, the material is soft and can be laid in any way you like.

Insulation of the cellar during construction

Insulation and waterproofing at the construction stage must be strictly carried out in accordance with GOST in order to prevent unnecessary additional costs for reconstruction and subsequent repairs. So:

A foundation made of monolithic concrete must be insulated from the outside with a drainage system and impregnated with bitumen mastic.
Inside the cellar, insulation is made with polyurea; it will also protect the foundation from moisture. This means that the use of the room being treated will work 100%. You should never forget about ventilation; properly executed ventilation is the key to long-term operation of the cellar.

Insulation of an old basement

Not correct device drainage system or ventilation device, all these factors may not have a beneficial effect on the insulation of the basement. As a result, you will have to resort to unplanned repair costs. So:

In an already used room, dismantling the old insulation is possible, but very labor-intensive. If it was not there, then we simply prepare the surface. We remove the previous coating and then apply an antiseptic. We are waiting for complete drying;
The first step in dismantling is to completely clean the walls of damaged materials. A mandatory requirement will be complete drying of the room, respectively this type work must be carried out in the summer. Perform waterproofing regardless of the selected material.
One of the fastest and effective ways, will be treatment with polyurethane foam and polyurea. In just a few hours you can easily treat the surfaces you need and forget about mold, mildew and damp odors in the underground space. Environmentally friendly materials and made with the times, technically convenient and durable polyurea and polyurethane foam.
Polyurea will protect your foundation, as well as your walls, from unnecessary moisture and condensation. It will serve as excellent protection against rot and fungus for many years. Polyurethane foam will provide high thermal insulation properties and will also serve as waterproofing.
Polyurethane foam and polyurea materials can be easily applied to any surface, quickly harden and after 12 hours you can use basement as intended.

Insulation based on polyurethane foam

Polyurethane-based materials have proven themselves to be one of the highest quality insulation materials. The composition includes polyurethane foam, which is known to have high thermal insulation and waterproofing properties. So:

When applied, it creates an even coating without seams. It does not flow down when applied, thereby facilitating insulation work.
Polyurethane foam has a cellular structure, thanks to this quality it quickly increases in volume and quickly hardens. It has high heat and waterproofing functions.
Polyurethane foam is widely used both in medicine and in construction. In construction, this material is used for insulation of industrial buildings, as well as residential buildings.
The insulation made on the basis of polyurethane foam is environmentally friendly, which means it will not cause irreparable harm to health environment. Polyurethane foam is odorless; this material can be used in food storage areas.

Cellar and basement - what are their similarities and differences

DIY semi-buried cellar

Stages of underground construction

How to make ventilation in the cellar

We are building a cellar

How to design the above-ground part of a semi-buried cellar

Cellar and basement - what are their similarities and differences

DIY semi-buried cellar

Stages of underground construction

How to make ventilation in the cellar

We are building a cellar

How to design the above-ground part of a semi-buried cellar

Deepening the storage

Cellar structures

What you need to consider first

Cellar space

About soil type and groundwater

Construction of a cellar

Digging a pit

Waterproofing of the structure

Construction of walls, floors and ceilings

Floors

Ventilation system

How to make storage convenient

Wiring

Conclusion

Types of cellars

Selecting a location

Construction of a deep cellar

Preparing a clay castle

Ventilation

Wall decoration

Cellar cover

Ceiling insulation

Construction of a horse cellar

Types of horse cellars

Construction of a cellar with embankment

Embankment

The main stages of building a cellar without embanking walls

Cellar made of reinforced concrete rings

Cellar in the garage. Built to last!

Ready-made structures for cellars

Polystyrene foam as wall insulation

Insulation of an old basement

Insulation of the foundation in the garage cellar

Measures to insulate the garage floor and foundation

Insulation of basement walls and hidden communications

Choosing a material for insulating a basement in a garage

Polystyrene foam as wall insulation

Technology of wall insulation with foam plastic

Insulation with mineral wool and fiberglass

Insulation of the cellar during construction

Insulation of an old basement

Insulation based on polyurethane foam

Related materials: