About the advantages of using tiles as facing material has been said more than once. Ceramic is easy to care for, it is resistant to mechanical stress and can serve well for many years. However, ordering professional tile laying is not a cheap pleasure, which is why many spend installation work on one's own. The article will discuss how to properly prepare the surface and how to lay tiles on the wall.

How to properly lay tiles on a wall: surface preparation rules

In order to begin preparing the wall for laying tiles, you first need to decide what type of mortar will be used for tiling. There are two options: cement-sand mortar and special adhesive compositions. Depending on which option is preferred, the preparation of walls for tiles will differ.

Many people want to opt for glue, but in this case they will have to work hard to align the walls under the tiles. Typically, plaster is used for this purpose or the surface is covered with plasterboard. The smoother the surface, the better. If the decision was made to use cement-sand mortar, then it will take less effort to align the wall with the tiles. How to choose the best option? The first method is much simpler and is suitable even for beginners. But the “solution” method requires skills and experience.

Speaking about how to prepare walls for tiles in the bathroom, do not forget about the presence large quantity communications that may interfere with installation. The simplest solution to this problem is to hide all the pipes before gluing the bathroom tiles to the wall. The easiest way to do this is with plasterboard structures.

Important!Before you start leveling the walls before laying the tiles, you need to make sure that the old covering is completely removed. This also applies to paint. If there are residues that can crumble, the life of the new tile can be significantly reduced.

What tools are needed fortile laying work

Before you begin work on preparing the surface and laying the facing material, you need to make sure that you have all the necessary tools for this:

• trowel and spatulas (regular, serrated and rubber);
• building level;
• and wire cutters;
• grinder and diamond wheel for it;
• special crosses for laying tiles;
• foam sponge.

Additionally, you will need a tape measure, a hammer and other tools that are probably found in every home. In addition, it is worth thinking in advance about how the adhesive solution will be mixed. It is advisable to have a special drill attachment for this purpose, but this can also be done manually.

How to properly lay tiles on a wall

The first rule you need to know before laying tiles on the wall is that all places that are important for visual perception must be tiled with solid elements. You should try to hide the tiles that had to be cut behind pieces of furniture or in places where they will be least noticeable.

The calculation of the required amount of materials is carried out even before the start of work and, in particular, leveling the base. They do this because it provides the opportunity to make some changes, for example, applying a slightly larger layer of plaster. In this case, the result will be some loss of area, but this is not as problematic as having to look at an imperfectly installed pavement for many years.

Helpful advice! If all corners of the room fall equally within the field of view, then the best option will make the same trimming of all corner elements.

As for vertical cutting, the rule of the whole tile at the top applies here. Although it is important to pay attention to individual data. It is perfectly acceptable to break the rules if it objectively has a positive impact on the situation. It is also worth paying attention to the size of the tile joints. On the surface of a small area, in total they take up quite a lot of space.

The marking technique largely depends on which method of laying the tiles was chosen. The most popular types are: “seam to seam”, staggered and diagonally. The first method is the most popular. Its main difficulty is that in no case should you violate the vertical and horizontal boundaries, as this will be very noticeable. The most difficult method proposed is the third. It requires a certain skill and experience. But the second one is universal. It imitates brickwork and is quite easy to install.

How to lay tiles on a wall: general rules

Typically, you need to lay tiles on the wall starting from the second or third row. This is due to the fact that the wall tiles must cover the floor tiles for a number of reasons:

• visually this solution looks better;

• water that will flow down the surface of the wall will not flow into the contour seams;
• Trimming wall ceramics is much easier.

Often you have to deal with situations where the flooring was laid in advance. In this case, you need to start laying wall tiles from the bottom row. But here another difficulty arises - it is not always possible to do without trimming and place a solid tile in the top row.

The first thing you need to do is decide on the beacon row and make marks for the top edge of the first row. It is important to use a level during the work so that the entire tile does not “float” in the future.

Important!At the marking stage, it is very important to pay attention to all the difficult aspects, such as laying tiles around the pipes. Some displacement of the marks is allowed if this avoids the need to make complex cuts.

After this, you need to pull the beacon cord or draw a solid line along the marks. It is better to use the first option, as this will make it possible to more accurately control the horizontal. To maintain vertical lines, use ordinary plumb lines.

Laying tiles correct: step-by-step instructions for work

It is important to understand that the installation procedure may differ significantly depending on what surface and with what composition the installation will be carried out. Therefore, if you know how to glue tiles to the floor, this does not at all guarantee that you can handle wall tiles without problems. Let's look at what the installation procedure looks like when using ordinary white tile adhesive for the job, and what is the order of work in this case:

• Initially, it is necessary to dilute the adhesive composition according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is best to use a construction mixer for this, as this allows you to complete the task faster;
• using a spatula, apply a thin layer to the base, as well as to the back side of the tile. Excess is removed using a comb so that back side the tiles remained evenly grooved;

• After making sure that the layer of glue on the tile is evenly distributed, it must be carefully pressed to the surface.

Important! The choice of notched trowel should be based on the size of the tile. The larger the dimensions of the tile, the larger the teeth on the tool should be.

The first tile should be laid along horizontal and vertical marks. At the same time, if a cord was used as a guide during the work, it is better to start from the corner of the second row and only then remove the cord. Fixation is carried out using special wedges, which are inserted between the tile and the support strip.

First you need to lay out all the solid elements, maintaining an equal distance between them. It is to facilitate this task that small crosses are used, which serve as a guide for creating uniform tile joints. Each laid row must be thoroughly checked using a building level.

Helpful advice! If there is a pattern on the tile that is not clear enough to visually easily identify the top and bottom parts, then you should pay attention to the special arrows that the manufacturer places on the back of each element. With their help you can navigate the installation process.

As for laying tiles that require trimming, this task is best left for later. How exactly this procedure should be carried out will be discussed later in the article.

How to lay tiles on drywall

For some time, there was controversy regarding whether plasterboard structures could be used as a base for laying tiles. After all, the material itself is not very strong and is heavy. ceramic tiles may simply be overwhelming.

Practice has shown that if certain rules are followed, drywall can be a complete basis for laying tiles:

• don't save money on adhesive composition, it must be of high quality and suitable for this type of work;
• before installation, the surface must be thoroughly primed and completely dry;
• Laying should be done gradually - no more than 5 rows at a time. After this, you need to take at least an hour break, after which you can continue working.

Related article:

Advantages and disadvantages of the material, design of products from catalogs and photos of interior decoration, prices for products.

Compliance with these simple rules will make the tile covering more durable and reliable, and will also reduce the risk that after a short period of time some tiles will fall off.

How to lay tiles on a wall: tile cutting technologies

Trying to understand in detail the question of how to glue tiles to the wall in the bathtub, many believe that the main difficulty that will have to be faced is the adjustment of the elements. This can indeed be a difficult task, but with the right approach, even a beginner can cope with it.

It is often possible to cope with cutting tiles using a regular tile cutter. A grinder is often required for flooring than for a wall-mounted one, due to the difference in the thickness of the material. But sometimes, for particularly difficult places, you still have to use this tool in the process of laying tiles on the wall.

Helpful advice! If you don’t have a glass cutter, you can get by with even less, using, for example, a tile cutter or a pobedit-tipped scriber. In order to cut off the required part, you need to draw a cutting line, and then run it over the fixed element several times with the available tool as many times as necessary.

In order to achieve the shaped trim that is necessary for laying tiles around pipes, it is better to use a grinder with a diamond wheel. But if it is not available, and there are not too many holes to be made, then it is quite possible to use a cheap alternative - a diamond-coated blade. True, in this case much more time will be spent.

How to grout seams on wall tiles

After all the tiles have been laid, the gaps between the elements must be filled using a special compound, which is called “”. This mixture is designed to fill the voids between the tiles and provide reliable protection from penetration of moisture under the coating. In order for this procedure to be as effective as possible, you must adhere to the following rules:

• You need to mix the grout in stages, usually this is done at the rate of 1-4 m² per approach. This way the mixture will not dry out before it is used;
• all excess must be removed with a foam sponge until the solution has completely dried;
• using the same sponge, the seams can be made smoother by evenly distributing the grout inside the seam;
• During operation, the spatula should be held at an angle of 15-30 degrees to ensure that the space is filled as densely as possible with the mixture.

Figuring out how to grout tile joints is not difficult. If you have any additional questions, you can always watch the video instructions or use them as a guide step by step photos, which demonstrate this process in as much detail as possible.

Another issue that is worthy of attention is the price of grouting tiles. It should be noted here that you can find two options on sale - ready mixture and dry powder, which you will need to dilute with water to the desired consistency yourself. Their cost will be different, for example, 2 kg of the finished mixture will cost about 259 rubles, and 2 kg of dry powder – 175 rubles.

What you need to pay attention to beforehow to glue tiles to a wall

Just before laying tiles on the wall with your own hands, you need to once again pay attention to several important aspects:

• All tiles must be carefully inspected for damage, scratches and chips. It is also useful to sort items by size. This will allow you to get the most even seams;
• In order for laying tiles on the wall with your own hands to be of no less quality than if it had been done by a professional, you do not need to spare the primer and time for leveling and preparing the surface;

• If you have to deal with facing external corners, you should use plastic corners.

Often on specialized forums, users discuss interesting questions, for example, whether it is possible to lay tiles on tiles or other old coverings without dismantling them. The answer to all such questions is clear - you shouldn’t do this, and before you start laying new tiles, you need to remove the old tiles from the bathroom walls. How exactly to do this - we will consider further.

How to remove tiles from a bathroom wall: rules and recommendations

How easy it will be to remove old tiles from the wall surface largely depends on the surface on which it was laid. For example, if the surface was previously plastered, then the tiles will be relatively easy to remove along with the plaster. But if it is attached directly to a concrete or brick base, then the task will become somewhat more complicated.

It is very difficult to work with drywall, since it itself does not have sufficient strength and in the process of removing the tiles it will receive so much damage that it will have to be replaced.

You need to start dismantling the coating by soaking it. To do this, you can use a shower or a spray bottle. After the surface is wetted, you need to walk the grinder disc along the tile seams. The better the grout removal is done, the easier it will be to carry out all subsequent work. Water is again poured into the resulting grooves so that the glue softens a little, as a result of which some of the tiles themselves will begin to come off.

The top layer of tile is tapped using a mallet. In those places where a dull knock is heard, it is worth starting the process. Using a chisel or chisel and a hammer, carefully chip off the first tile. After this, water is added again and the dismantling of the following elements continues one by one.

Helpful advice! If there is a need to carefully remove one tile in a row, then this will require a drill with drill bits. Many holes are drilled in the direction from the center to the edges (about 10-20) and then the tile is carefully chipped.

Most quick way to cope with the task - use a hammer drill. However, in this case, one cannot count on the fact that at least some part of the old tile will be preserved. And the sound will probably be loud, so it’s better to warn your neighbors in advance about upcoming repair work Oh.

Having familiarized yourself with how to properly lay tiles on the walls in the bathroom, and also learned about all the options for dismantling the old coating, you can safely begin your own repairs. As for choosing the right material, the most important thing is that you like the characteristics, color and size of the ceramic tiles for the walls, and that they fit harmoniously into the interior and meet the operating conditions.

Tiles on the wall begin to be laid, most often, from the second row. This is a classic scheme. Many people do this and don’t think about why. Everything works out - why change and come up with something new?

This is the most common option because it hides inconsistencies and provides a number of advantages:

• Floor covering can be done after the walls. Then you don't need floor film. The primer or grout will not flow (under the film) during work, unnoticed.
• If there is no lining on the floor, then there is less chance of damaging it during work.
• The differences in the screed on the floor become invisible when the bottom row is trimmed.
• A fresh screed can gain the necessary strength and moisture content to perform waterproofing if the wall surface is ready for cladding.

Profiles for plasterboard systems are used as support for the tiles of the second row. This is where the first questions begin. Which profile should I take CD or UD?

SUPPORT FOR THE SECOND ROW OF TILES ON THE WALL.

CD is more durable than UD. But it won’t always work either.

With each goth, the metal becomes thinner and the profile weaker. As a result, there is no point in using the profile itself. It will either bend when fixed to the wall (in the photo below, the curvature of the nailed profile is noticeable) or the tile will sag during installation.

PROFILE FOR CONSTRUCTING A WORKING WALL IN THE KITCHEN.

How can you determine horizontality with a bubble level and on a curved profile?

All the disadvantages of this method are visible here:

What should they have done?

1. If you decide to place the profile under the second row, then you need to mark all corners with a level or water level. If you do this with a bubble level (like there), then the line along the perimeter of the room rarely converges.
2. Nail the profile along the line marked on the wall. First at the extreme points, then in the middle. Then the profile will not bend (as in the photo).
3. Use CD profile.

If the profile is nailed unevenly, then during installation it begins to add pieces of paper, wedges, matches...

It is better to use an aluminum wedge instead of a profile:

It is practiced to start laying tiles on the wall from the second row. some"bourgeois". This is what the Tiletracker profile system is designed for:

Advantages of this technology:

• There is no need to drill or hammer anything into the wall where communications pass.
• The waterproofing done before the cladding is not compromised.
• Aluminum profiles are strong and smooth. Smooth line guaranteed.

... and minus:

• The vertical posts make it difficult to apply the first row of glue with a comb.
• The installation height is limited by the length of the posts. If you need to secure it at a higher height, they begin to substitute everything.
• The premises are different. Ready-made structures do not always fit in size, even if their joining is provided.
• Extra equipment that needs to be brought, transported, stored.
• The next day, it is necessary to clean the hardened glue at the end of the profile.
• Among the reviews you can find messages that the structure is unstable. There were cases when I fell. And the price (about $170)!

It makes sense to start facing not from the second row, but from the frieze and according to the aluminum rule:

What gives:

• The most visible place (almost eye level) is a straight line. After two or three rows, the tiles begin to jump, but the seam line is no longer visible.
• The rule is smooth and strong. There is no point in rechecking the line. No time is wasted checking the horizon. With this method, it makes no difference which edge of the tile (top or bottom) will give a straight line.
• Using a rule and a good bubble level, you can get a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room.
• Wedges of various lengths are always at hand. There is no need for additional equipment.

If the CD profile is weak and the tiles are heavy, it can be strengthened by installing pieces of drywall inside. Then both profile shelves will be used:

REINFORCING THE PROFILE WITH GYPSOCARDBOARD INSERTS.

In the case of using a UD profile, you can strengthen the structure by inserting a second, same (UD) profile inside the nailed one:

And for fastening, use dowels for a mounting gun. They can be hammered even into concrete with a simple hammer.

4295 0

Repair. A word that plunges into horror almost every homeowner who has waited for this “happy” moment in his life. He is afraid not only of the “destroyed” housing, dirt and garbage, strangers in the apartment, but also of the need to spend large sums for this event. Basically, financial costs will consist of two items: acquisition necessary materials and remuneration of specialists engaged in repair-related work.

Cladding can be done using various adhesives

Repairs associated with the cladding of any premises, for example, with tiles, are especially expensive. In addition to the high cost finishing material, the services of professional tilers cost quite a lot. And therefore, it is absolutely reasonable to want to lay the tiles yourself, saving a lot of money on it. In addition, this task is quite doable, you just need to know how to properly lay ceramic tiles on the wall and floor.

Selection of materials and tools

Any work, including laying tiles on a wall, done with your own hands, begins with the purchase Supplies and preparation necessary tools and devices. So, the technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles requires the following elements:

Materials:

• primers;
• tiles or other finishing material;
• adhesive mixture;
• crosses;
• fugue.

Tools:

• tile cutter or any device for cutting tiles
• a set of spatulas (rubber for grouting joints, regular for applying glue to the surface, serrated for distributing the adhesive);
• level;
• roulette;
• pencil or marker.

To start work, you need to prepare materials and tools

The choice of device for cutting ceramics depends on how much tile you need to lay with your own hands, the layout of its installation and the physical characteristics of the facing material. This can be either a professional electric tile cutter with high performance or a modest manual glass cutter.

Preparing the base

Before laying tiles, the surface to be finished must be inspected and a decision must be made on how to bring the base to acceptable parameters. After all, the final quality of the cladding, the complexity of the process and the consumption of material depend on how smooth the surface is.

If the base does not have significant depressions and convexities, then preparation may be limited to one or two leveling layers of plaster and the work stages will look like this:

• dismantling old cladding;
• cleaning the wall of residual glue and dirt;
• surface treatment with antiseptic and primer;
• base plaster.

Modern assortment waterproofing materials allows you to choose reliable and easy-to-use tools

In this case, you can do the preparation yourself, because the work described does not require special qualifications and doing it yourself is quite within the capabilities of many home craftsmen.

To make plastering work easier with your own hands, lay the plaster correctly using special plaster markers.

There are options when the differences are so large, or the wall is significantly “filled up” in one direction or another, that it is not possible to level it with plaster. Then this needs to be done by constructing a new base made of plasterboard or OSB sheets mounted on a frame made of a special profile. Then the surface is processed traditional methods and you can start laying tiles on the walls.

Selecting a layout, layout and installation method

There are several ways to correctly lay tiles on walls, here are the main ones:

• classic layout or seam-to-seam;
• in a run;
• diagonal or diamond layout;
• combination various schemes(modular layout, carpet, offset, etc.).

If you want to lay tiles on the wall with your own hands, but you do not have sufficient experience working with ceramics, then it would be correct to focus on the first two options, since the remaining methods require certain skills in handling the facing material.

Having chosen the scheme according to which the tiles will be laid on the wall, you need to mark the base. So that during subsequent installation, the tiles lie flat on the wall, with the least amount of trimming, and therefore waste, this must be done very carefully. For this, a laser level is used, which provides the most accurate markings, but in its absence, you can get by with a regular tape measure and a plumb line.

When covering vertical surfaces, remember that it is necessary to make an indentation from the floor surface

In order not to mark the wall directly with the fragment being laid (which is also allowed), for convenience and speeding up the process, you can prepare a wooden strip, on different sides of which you can draw several dimensions of the length and width of the tile, taking into account the thickness of the seams. The first step is to determine the horizontal position of the ceramics by applying a measuring rod to the wall, find the optimal location of the tiles, and the place where the elements will be trimmed if necessary. This can be either near the floor or near the ceiling, or half the fragment is below and half is above.

Then we move on to marking the vertical location of the ceramics. To do this, a measurement is placed horizontally on the wall and it is determined in which direction it is better to move the elements being laid in order to obtain an aesthetic appearance of the wall surface being tiled.

Before laying ceramics on the wall, you still need to decide which method is best for laying ceramics:

• From the center. With this method, the cut fragments are symmetrically located on both sides of the wall.
• From one of the corners. In this case, the tiles should be laid from the most visible angle.

Installation

The technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall consists of several stages:

1. Diluting the required amount of tile adhesive.
2. Apply the adhesive mixture to a small surface of the wall and spread it with a notched trowel so that the adhesive evenly covers the area to be tiled. If the base is uneven or in hard-to-reach places, the mixture can be placed on the tiles, also leveling it with a comb.
3. Laying begins with entire fragments from the vertical axis or from the visible angle. In this case, you constantly need to monitor the vertical and horizontal levels of the elements. To form a seam that is equal in width and aesthetically pleasing, crosses are used.
4. To place the fragments exactly one relative to the other, the protruding ceramics are easily tapped with a mallet until it is set in the desired position.
5. As the work progresses, the seams between the ceramics must be cleaned of any glue residue.
6. Having covered the surface with whole fragments, you need to trim the tiles. If the trimming is small, then you can get by with a manual tile cutter, but in case of large volumes of work or if you need to make the cut fairly evenly, it would be more advisable to use an electric tile cutting machine.
7. After the tiles are completely laid on the wall, the remaining adhesive is removed from it and a pause is made for 24 hours until the adhesive mixture with the ceramics finally sets.

To avoid overuse of glue due to its rapid drying, it is not recommended to prepare a lot of adhesive mixture. The optimal amount of mixture should ensure that one meter of square tiles are laid on the wall.

Grouting joints

The technology of laying tiles on the wall is completed by processing the seams and jointing them with special grouting compounds. After removing the crosses from the seams, the stage begins final finishing surfaces:

Grouting of joints is carried out 24 hours after facing the wall

• preparing the grouting composition in accordance with the instructions, usually located on the grout packaging;
• Using a rubber spatula, the grout is distributed between the tiles. The movement should be in a herringbone pattern relative to the seam line;
• excess composition is removed with a plastic spatula and a damp sponge;
• You can give the seam a rounded shape using a piece of electrical cable or other suitable object;
• joints between tiles and furniture or plumbing equipment are treated with silicone sealant.

After the final hardening of the fugue, to improve the moisture-resistant qualities of the cladding and give an aesthetic appearance to the tile covering, the ceramics can be coated with polish.

So, the tiles have been laid on the walls, the seams have been properly processed, so the renovation can be considered complete and you can enjoy the work you did yourself.

Tiling is easy to learn if you follow all the instructions in this article step by step. Plus, you need to understand the properties and features of the tile material various types. You should select suitable ceramics for the kitchen and bathroom. The pattern, color and texture of the tile surface should match the interior of the room.

1. Tile

Her choice depends on your personal preferences. This ceramic material is sold in all sorts of variations and has different qualities. Manufacturers and brands can have a significant impact on the price of a material. You need to be careful here. Sometimes the cost of tiles is influenced more by the image of the manufacturer than by compliance technical characteristics international GOSTs.

You can argue about the benefits of an acquisition, citing weighty arguments. And everyone will be right in their own way. But all the variety of tile materials is united by the high dignity of the material, which fully meets hygienic requirements. When choosing, you need to take into account quality, wear resistance, country of production and aesthetics.

The undeniable advantage of ceramic tiles over other finishing components is ideal protection from moisture and dirt. Multi-colored tiles are used for finishing and decorating indoor and outdoor spaces.

Instead of glue, you can dilute sand and cement in certain proportions. The old proven method requires knowledge of some subtleties. Nowadays it is almost never used due to the large number of cement traces remaining on the cladding, which are difficult to remove and give an unaesthetic appearance to the wall. But if you decide to use this method, then the tiles must first be soaked in water so that they do not absorb moisture from the solution. This recommendation does not apply to tiles that will be attached with glue.

Modern glue is more reliable and easier to use. You can choose domestic or foreign products. The main thing is that it is indicated on the container that the glue is suitable specifically for ceramic wall tiles. There is no point in overpaying for a name when the quality of this material is approximately the same, since the products are manufactured in strict accordance with international standards. You can buy both Ceresit and Arisan - you won’t notice the differences between them.

It is better to choose a coarse-grained suspension - you will get improved, super-strong adhesion of the surface to the glue. You can use Polimin AC-8.

1. Drill

After laying the tiles, you will need to drill holes in the wall. After all, in any room, and this applies to the kitchen and bathroom, there are sockets and heating pipes. It is recommended to use a tubular type drill with diamond coating.

1. Rule (aluminum rail)
2. Plastic crosses and wedges of two millimeter thickness (inserted to ensure evenness of seams between adjacent elements)
3. Pencils and markers
4. Spatulas (simple and serrated) for applying an adhesive layer to tiles and wall surfaces. An ordinary narrow spatula - for the convenience of applying the adhesive mass to the main tool.
5. Corners, dowel nails and tile pliers
6. Tape measure (for measurements), ax (for making notches on a painted wall)
7. Level

It is better to use two levels for your own convenience - long and short (1 m and 30 cm)

1. Plumb line, construction angle, comb
2. Cord, rubber hammer
3. Grout for seams: sandpaper, whetstone
4. Tile cutter

This tool may not be useful if the coverage area is small. Otherwise, you will feel inconvenienced, plus work will slow down. In order not to specifically buy a tool if you don’t have it in stock, and not to spend extra money, you can use a glass cutter or grinder with a special disc.

Preparing the walls

Their surface must be perfectly cleaned of dirt and leveled. You can do this in two ways:

• plaster with cement-sand mortar.
• Apply moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheets to uneven or bumpy surfaces.

When laying tiles with your own hands, it is more advisable to use the first method - it is more economical and simpler. In addition, it will be difficult to cope with plasterboard finishing alone. You will definitely need helpers. Whereas you can plaster alone.

On the wall with a durable old paint you need to make notches with a hatchet or chisel. It is not recommended to touch the paint itself, if it has not peeled off. You can rub the entire surface with a wire brush - this way you will identify the peeling areas and remove them. Small notches should also be made on gypsum concrete surfaces. This is practiced for the purpose of reliable adhesive adhesion.

To firmly connect surfaces of different compositions, a layer of primer should be applied to the wall. It will cover all nicks, chips and cracks. The wall surface will become uniform.

Before priming, old dirt, tile residues and paint and varnish materials need to be completely removed, and uneven areas should be plastered so that the wall looks like a smooth canvas.

Let's start laying

The first thing to do after our walls are smooth, dry and notched is to make markings. To do this, you need to stretch the cord between two adjacent walls. Use paint, a marker or a colored pencil to mark the places where the cord is tensioned and connect them with a line. The lines should meet in the center of the room at right angles. A construction angle is used for testing.

If you want to see how the flooring will look, place several tiles against the wall in the direction of the corner. It happens that the cuts of the tiles turn out to be different. Then you need to move the elements to the side and re-make the markings.

Here clear example ideal marking, as one of the variations:

The author makes vertical markings on the prepared wall, cleared of old peeling paint. Leaving space on top for the baseboard, you need to draw a line, then count down to the curb. Next, from the profile installed on the dowels, the masonry begins from the bottom up. It is more comfortable.

Surface primer

The product is applied in an even layer using a spatula or roller on dry walls. You need to prime evenly, making sure that the paste-like mass saturates all chips and nicks, and that the outer layer looks even. In order not to doubt the quality of the work done by yourself, apply a second coat after the first has dried.

A portion of primer poured from a canister must be used all in one go; under no circumstances should you pour the remainder back. When the primer interacts with air, the mixture acquires an unpleasant odor.

After priming, the wall becomes homogeneous; grains of sand and remnants of the former coating do not peel off. The glue securely attaches the tile to the wall treated in this way.

Methods of applying tiled elements to the wall

1. The calculation of horizontal rows should be done from above, taking into account 3 mm seams. A row is considered complete if the whole part does not fit below. The remaining space between the finished row and the plinth should not be sealed with anything until the wall is tiled in the same way as the first row was laid. The first row laid may be uneven, so you can insert various pieces here as finishing. Or level it so that unevenness is not noticeable. But all this should be done later, after the main work, when the entire wall is ready - covered with tiles.
2. The calculation of vertical rows is carried out in a similar way, only the corner of the wall will be the “starting point”. It is from this that the number of complete tiles that will fit in a horizontal row is collected. For symmetry, you can start the row with a broken tile. It is unlikely that two solid elements will fit at both ends.

If symmetry is not required, you can start with a whole tile. However, technology in compliance symmetry, which seems more complicated at first glance, is actually much simpler. And such a wall looks more attractive. In addition, when placing elements on glue, a slight shift may occur in one direction or another. And when laying, starting from a solid element, it will be unrealistic to level the entire wall so as to eliminate a small gap in the corner. A piece of tile on the edge can always be replaced with another without compromising the integrity of the entire structure.

According to the laying rules, in the places where the tile row will begin, profiles are secured using dowels. Such structures will serve as a good support for the next row. The profiles are installed strictly horizontally and parallel to each other - check with a level.

Choosing masonry

Having decided on the installation method that is most suitable for the walls of the room, you can begin to work.

Attach the profile in the places where you will begin laying the tiles. It will support the 2nd row of tiles. The horizontal position of the laid profiles is strictly checked by level. Once the correct markings are made and you have decided on the centering, attach the profile.

Check the straightness of the lines and the reliability of the fixation. Everything is fine? Now you can dilute the tile adhesive. Proportions must be strictly observed. Excess water, as well as a lack of fluid, will lead to poor fixation of the elements and their subsequent shift.

There are other methods for calculating the number of tiles, and all of them are actively used by self-taught craftsmen. You can cut a template from thick paper the size of a tile, taking into account the gap (+ 3 mm).

The exact area of ​​the walls of a large room can be calculated as follows: simply take the area of ​​the wall and add 8-10% for trimming and damage to the tile material.

If there are sockets in the room, it would be best to place them inside solid tiles or in the center of the seams. For this, precise layout and a decent supply of tiles are especially important.

It is best to place the cut tiles in dark areas, behind the area of ​​pipes or curtains, so as not to draw attention to them.

Applying glue to the wall

Carefully read the instructions on the box, in what ratio the adhesive solution is prepared. It needs to be stirred well, for which you use a mixer or drill with a special attachment, and let it brew for 10 - 15 minutes. After mixing the glue, wait for it to be ready and begin applying it to the wall. But only for an area for three or four tiles.

To begin with, you can smear a smaller area of ​​the wall, for example, for two tiles, until you get the hang of it.
The glue is applied with a notched trowel. The most important thing is not to make a mistake in laying the first support row. Everything must be correctly calculated and measured. There is no need to rush here. Gaps of 3 mm between elements should be made as accurately as possible. This applies to both vertical and horizontal masonry.

Important points to start laying:

• Don't forget to insert plastic crosses between the tiles to ensure seams same size. Then there will be no distortions, shifts or sagging of materials. Additional fasteners should be removed before the cement or adhesive hardens.
• Check the support row on both sides with a long level for flatness. To do this, you need to attach the tool to the tiles with an edge. If you notice any cracks, immediately tap the protruding parts of the tile sheet against the wall with a rubber hammer.
• After laying each row, you need to check the horizontality, verticality and flatness with levels.

Masonry technology

The laying of tiles in the next rows after the supporting row is similar. It is impossible to complete the work in one day if the room is large. And even with a small volume, working alone, it’s difficult to get everything done, especially without having the skill. There is no need to rush. It is important to work as carefully as possible so as not to redo anything the next day. Therefore, after completing a certain stage, you should remove all excess glue from the walls and pull out (or cut off) the plastic crosses from the entire pasted area, without leaving it “for later.”

When laying, you must immediately make holes in the tiles for sockets and pipes using a coated tubular drill.

The laying of the last row is carried out after the entire wall is completely covered. Customized right size, the tiles are laid tightly to the bottom row.

No masonry is made from the floor itself, since the lower part of the walls is usually covered with furniture or a wide plinth.

Grouting joints

This operation is not just a decorative component, but also acts as a sealant. After grouting, the seams are reliably protected from moisture.

Before performing the operation, you need to embroider the plastic threads with an awl or any sharp object. Apply the mixture with a rubber spatula, while removing excess with a sponge.

Dried tiles should be wiped with a slightly damp cloth and polished well.

Companies charge a decent amount for laying tiles. There is nothing difficult in this process if you don't need to rush and you are ready to learn something new. If you follow all the recommendations in this article, you will be amazed at the results you get. Wall covered tile material, will look as if it was performed by a true professional.

From the author: Thank you for reading this text. We really hope that the materials presented will help you when renovating your apartment. Today we will talk about how to lay tiles on the wall yourself and cover other important issues related to this topic.

For beginners in the renovation and construction business, laying tiles is a rather complicated process. But, since laying tiles, like everything else, can be learned, it will not be difficult for you to master this knowledge so that you can then successfully apply it in practice.

So let's get started.

Preparation

It all starts with preparation, and this statement is especially true for the renovation industry. Let’s just say that in order to prepare a wall for laying tiles, you don’t need any specific knowledge and skills. But still, this one important point needs to be covered in our article.

If we are talking about the bathroom, then it all starts something like this: we eliminate the old plumbing if you intend to change it. And even if you don’t intend to, it should still be dismantled for ease of use.

Now we take a hammer and chisel and begin to mercilessly knock down the old tiles. But if you want to create a real “tile mess”, and also speed up the work several times, use a hammer drill. To learn how to remove tiles from a wall, watch the video below:

By the way, let me give you one piece of advice, but if you don’t need old tiles in good condition, then just skip this paragraph. But if you intend to use it in another place, say, in a country house, on a balcony/loggia, on the veranda of a private house or somewhere else, then you can read an article on how to carefully remove old tiles from a wall, while without damaging it. The text is posted on our website and is available to everyone who wants and needs it.

Well, while working, do not forget about safety precautions, because sharp pieces of broken tiles falling from the wall can cause injury. In general, take care of yourself, because there is still a lot of work to be done.

After the wall is cleared of old tiles, you need to get rid of the remaining mortar/glue that fixes the tiles. To cope with this mission, we use the same tools.

Our goal is for the walls to be perfectly smooth, and the angles (wall-floor; wall-wall; possibly wall-ceiling [if you do not intend to mount a suspended structure]) to be straight, that is, strictly 90°.

How to level the walls? A very pressing construction issue. If there is enough free space in your bathroom/kitchen (or wherever else the action may take place), then you can level the wall. There is also information about this on our website. Here we will only note that for the bathroom and kitchen it is necessary to use exclusively moisture-resistant plasterboard. You can distinguish it from the usual one simply: the color of its coating is green, not gray.

Subsequently, tiles can be glued to the drywall. But our article is not entirely about this now. We won’t talk much about finishing walls with gypsum plasterboard.

So, how can we make the wall surface even if we do not use gypsum board? At the beginning of the work process, we need to determine what quality the wall plaster is; if it falls off in places, then we will again have to use a chisel/hammer/perforator to remove it from the wall. In this case, you will have to remove it all the way to the base so that you can see brickwork or bare slab. Let's hope our walls are strong enough.

Now let's move on to measurements. First of all, we need a plumb line. This is a rope/cord with a weight attached to it. With its help we determine the degree of slope of the wall. This is quite simple to do: you need to unwind the rope to the height of the room and secure one end of it right under the ceiling. If the slope exceeds 3 mm, you will have to level the walls. Although, it would have to be primed/puttyed in any case (the exception is leveling the walls with gypsum plasterboard - there is a slightly different procedure).

Important! Keep in mind that if you lay the tiles on an uneven surface, after completion of the work this flaw will be very noticeable. Tiles, unlike, say, do not forgive such flaws, so the surface must be leveled without fail.

Now about the corners. Still, in the bathroom the corners should be straight - strictly 90°. Especially in the place where the bath will be located. The fact is that otherwise, later you will have to look for the answer to the question: how to seal the gap between the bathtub and the wall. But, as you know, The best way To solve a problem is to prevent the possibility of its occurrence.

After the corners have been checked, the walls need to be checked again: for convexities and concavities, which are quite often present in old houses. Use a water level to check. By the way, the floor in the bathroom also needs to be checked - it should also be level, leveling the floors is a completely different conversation.

Leveling the work surface

To properly perform the alignment, we will need the following items:

• wide and narrow spatulas;
• drill mixer;
• bucket for mixing plaster composition. It is better if it is metal, because plastic can crack under the blows of the mixer (this has happened in practice);
• water level;
• tool for grouting the surface (construction float).

Now we will look at two popular ways to level the surface of walls (not counting gypsum boards).

putty

Undoubtedly one of the most effective and inexpensive ways tidy up the walls. Conduct comparative characteristics putty mixtures this article is not necessary. But one of best brands, under which these products are manufactured is considered to be the German company Knauf. It is not our goal to advertise this brand. We only give you the knowledge with which you can go to the hardware store. If you like something else, no problem.

But be prepared for the fact that truly high-quality products cannot be too cheap.

Before you begin to putty the walls, they must (!) be treated with an antifungal compound (antiseptic) and a penetrating primer. The fact is that in a humid environment it is very common, which not only gradually destroys Construction Materials, but also releases microelements harmful to health into the air. By the way, penetrating primer also has antiseptic properties, but its main purpose is that it promotes adhesion (strong adhesion) of the putty to the wall surface.

Now it's time to prepare the putty mixture. The “cooking recipe” can be expressed by a simple formula: 1 kg per 1 m² with a layer thickness of 1 mm, or, in other words, - (1 kg: 1 m²) × 1 mm. And yes, the putty should be prepared in exactly the quantity that you intend to use immediately after mixing. The next day the composition will have hardened, so it will be impossible to work with it.

The starting putty of the walls should be done in two layers, and between them, for better adhesion and to prevent microcracks, a painting mesh should be laid. This will not entail large material costs and will not take much time and effort, but it will ensure reliability, and, as we understand, this is fundamentally important for us.

Keep in mind that the wall should be aligned in all directions: not only from top to bottom, but also from left to right. How to do it? - very simple. It is necessary to apply layers of putty perpendicular to each other - that’s all.

Keep in mind that the smaller the angle of inclination of the spatula, the thicker the layer of putty applied. The composition applied to the wall dries in about a day at 18–20°C. To sand the surface and finally prepare it for laying tiles, this surface must be sanded using a construction float.

To clearly demonstrate the process, we have placed a video in our text:

Plastering on beacons

Plastering the surface on beacons is somewhat longer and more difficult than simply puttingty. And it is advisable to resort to this method if the walls are hopelessly crooked, and using gypsum boards for leveling is not possible, since there is already too little space in your bathroom/kitchen.

To get started, we will need:

• spatula/trowel;
• rule;
• drill mixer;
• bucket for mixing.

Here are the stages we have to go through in the process:

• We purchase a ready-made mixture in the store (since preparing it yourself is quite difficult if you are not a pro in this matter). But if the work is done in a bathroom/shower or other room with high humidity, a cement-sand mixture is suitable for us;
• treat the surface with an antiseptic and primer;
• We install guide beacons. How to install beacons, watch the video;

• Using a spatula, we clean the beacons in the places where they are fixed (until they overflow). This is necessary so that the rule follows the smooth surface of the lighthouse and does not encounter any obstacles on its way, otherwise the surface will be uneven;
• coat the beacons on the sides. The fact is that the space between the lighthouse and the wall may remain unfilled with mortar, and allowing such a development of events is pure hackwork;
• We begin to throw the mortar onto the wall with a spatula. This should be done from below. Thus, we throw the solution to a height of approximately 50 cm;
• We apply the rule to the guide beacons, then with movements ↔/ we begin to tighten the mixture. The mortar that remains on the rule should be removed with a spatula, and then thrown back onto the wall. The ↔/ movements should be performed several times, since the uncured mixture floats a little under the influence of gravity. Those holes that will inevitably remain after you walk the beacons as a rule for the Nth time, we will safely cover them after the composition has dried;
• in this way we treat the entire surface;
• after about 30 minutes, you need to go through the beacons again, as a rule, to remove the sagging that inevitably forms during the hardening process;
• Now we wait for the mixture to dry (±24 hours) - and at this point the process of plastering on beacons can be considered complete.

Important Generalization

Regardless of which of the presented methods we used to level the walls, before laying the tiles it is necessary to apply a primer to them for better adhesion of the tile adhesive and work surface. About five hours after priming (but not earlier) on surfaces that will be in contact with water, that is, the area near the bathtub, sink, as well as the lower part of the walls, must be covered with waterproofing mastic.

In areas where pipes enter, the surface should be treated especially carefully. To waterproof drains and pipe entries, after applying the first layer of waterproofing, install a sealing collar, and then apply a second layer of waterproofing compound.

To treat corners, use waterproof tape, placing it between two layers of mastic, like a sealing collar. Waterproofing mastic should be applied using a brush. For greater reliability, the mastic should be applied in two layers. In this case, before applying the second layer, you should wait until the first one dries. It won't take more than three hours. Within a day you can begin installation.