Many people love raspberries. At the same time, this berry crop is not very difficult to care for, which has made it popular among gardeners in our country. However, in order to get an excellent harvest, the raspberry plant should be properly prepared for winter. This article will tell you how to prepare raspberries for winter.

Preparing raspberry bushes for winter always begins in the summer, and not in the fall, as many might think. Of course, in order to prepare the bushes for winter, caring for raspberries in the fall must be special. How correctly the complex of agrotechnical actions was organized will determine how the raspberry plant will be able to survive the winter.

Winter preparation activities should begin in the last two weeks of summer.

During this period, it is necessary to increase plant nutrition in order to speed up the process of ripening lignified shoots. Also, portable fertilizers will prepare the root system with new one-year-old shoots for the cold period of the year. To do this, you need to add phosphorus and potash fertilizers. In this case, nitrogen-containing additives should be excluded from feeding.

The last fertilizing should be done before severe frosts. Therefore, the timing of its application will depend on the climatic conditions of the growing region (Moscow region, Urals, Siberia, south, etc.). But in most cases, gardeners carry it out in early October. As you can see, autumn feeding of raspberries is no less important than in other months.

In addition to adding fertilizer to the soil, preparing raspberries for winter in the fall involves carrying out a pruning procedure. Raspberry is a plant that produces a harvest only on two-year-old shoots. They die off after the fruiting period is over.

Therefore, so that next year they do not drag themselves nutrients and thus do not deteriorate the qualitative and quantitative characteristics of the crop, they must be cut off. You should know that the young shoots formed during the growing season will bear fruit only the next year. As a result, preparing raspberries for winter involves cutting off all biennial shoots. The following stems must be removed from young shoots that have already formed:

• too thin;
• weak and deformed;
• damaged;
• with signs of infection.

As a result, the bushes need to be well pruned in winter so that only mature, powerful and healthy shoots remain. All cut branches must be burned, as they can become a source of infection in the spring.

In addition to pruning, caring for raspberries in the fall, which is carried out in preparation for wintering, involves mulching the soil. It is worth noting that the roots of raspberry bushes must be well protected throughout the year. This will allow you to maintain desired humidity soil, which is especially important when using the trench method of planting young seedlings.

Mulching the soil also allows you to reduce the number of waterings during growing season. Therefore, this procedure should definitely be carried out by gardeners who cannot pay close attention to their garden every day.

Can be used for mulching various materials: rotten leaves, peat, etc. It is worth noting that mulching plays an important role in preparing raspberries for winter. This process is especially important for regions where severe frosts occur in winter even before snow cover forms. Also, mulching must be carried out in regions where there is an arid climate. This is due to the fact that in such areas the formed snow cover may not be enough to create good thermal insulation of the soil in winter period of the year.


For raspberries, as a mulching material, experts recommend using organic material that has a neutral acidic environment. The fact is that this berry crop does not like soil with an acidic or alkaline environment. Many people use sawdust as a mulching material. However, for raspberry bushes you should not choose sawdust of exclusively coniferous origin. For raspberries in in this case It is best to use peat, rotted leaves and straw. A less profitable option would be to use regular compost. The fact is that it contains a lot of nitrogen, which can lead to rotting of the lower parts of the branches in a warm winter. It is necessary to cover the ground with mulch material under the raspberry tree in such a way as to create a layer with a thickness of at least 5 cm. A smaller layer will lead to freezing of the soil. In this case, the mulch layer should not exceed 10 cm. If it is thicker, it can lead to soil decay in the spring. During the thaw period, it will provoke the development of fungal and purulent infections on the branches, which will lead to a weakening of the plant’s immunity.

Before you start mulching, you need to water the raspberries well. It is very important that the bushes do not go into winter with an insufficiently moistened root system.

In the autumn, when the leaf fall period has ended, the raspberry vines should be bent down for winter. To do this, metal rods or wooden posts should be driven into the ground. A wire is stretched between them. Please note that for lower tying of stems, it is necessary to pull the wire at a height of no higher than 20 cm from the ground. With proper bottom tying, the shoots will be covered with snow earlier, without having time to freeze. Externally tied stems should resemble an arched structure. It is recommended to use nylon tapes or threads as a tying material. This is how raspberries are prepared for the winter in the fall.

Video “Preparing for winter”

From the video you will learn how to properly prepare raspberries for wintering.

Snow retention work in arid areas with little snow

Work on snow retention as an element of preparing raspberry bushes for wintering is mandatory in a situation where the plants grow in open space. In such conditions, strong winds can blow snow, which leads to freezing of the ground. In addition, this technology is applicable in regions characterized by little snow and dry winters.

To prevent such an outcome, gardeners must carry out snow control procedures. Such preparation for winter is necessary if you want to get a bountiful and tasty harvest next year.

To control snow, barriers should be installed near the raspberry patch on one side. The design can have a wide variety of appearances. For example, you can dig sheets of plywood into the ground. But many experts recommend using polycarbonate for snow retention. This choice is due to the following advantages of polycarbonate:

• strength;
• the material is not afraid of frost;
• does not rot;
• can be reused.

In order for snow retention cordons to fulfill their function, they should be tied to trellises. Several rows of wire were previously stretched between them. Such barriers should be organized from the direction of the predominant wind direction in winter. To choose the right direction, you need to check the wind rose of your area of ​​residence. It can be found on the portal of the regional hydrometeorological service.

There are situations when little snow falls or it disappears, even despite the created protective cordons. In this case, you should additionally cover the bushes. Each gardener will answer the question “how to cover raspberries” in his own way. After all, anyone can carry out this procedure in different ways.

The procedure for covering raspberry bushes for the winter has the following algorithm:

• the material must be non-woven products (spunbond, lutrasil, etc.);
• After choosing the material, you should bend the branches to the ground. To keep them in the desired shape, they are tied with wire. Remember that the fixation must be strong;
• then covering material is placed on top. It also needs to be well fixed so that strong winds do not tear the material from the beds. To do this, the material can be pressed on both sides with any fasteners, sprinkled with earth or covered with branches. Each gardener chooses the fixation method independently.

When growing raspberries in a harsh climate, when the winter weather is characterized by severe frosts and there is not enough snow, you can use additional material for covering plants. In its role, you can use sheets of curved cellular polycarbonate.

It is placed on covered lashes, thereby forming an arched structure. Work carried out in this way to control snow and cover raspberries will avoid the death of plants from severe freezing of shoots and soil in winter.

Timing of autumn shelter and spring opening of raspberries

Preparing raspberries for the cold season is important stage caring for raspberries. After all, without it, even if you care for the plants correctly, it is unlikely that you will be able to get a good harvest. It is important to have time to complete all preparations for the first frost. It is not recommended to cover raspberries early, as this will cause them to rot. As you can see, it is important to correctly observe the timing of the shelter.

It is best to start preparing for winter after the fall leaves have finished falling.

Also, all actions should be completed before the first snowfall. By investing in this range, you can expect your plants to survive the winter without significant complications.

It is also necessary to remove covers on time. After the snow melts, you need to remove the covering material. Then, after the temperature rises, the branches should be raised to the height of the trellis. Typically this procedure is carried out in mid-April.

Preparing remontant raspberries for winter

Remontant varieties of raspberries, just like ordinary forms, are prepared for wintering according to the same scheme. We prepare raspberries for winter in the same way, but the timing of covering remontant varieties will be slightly shifted. This is due to the fact that such varieties bear fruit already in the first year and form a harvest until frost. At the same time, pruning for remontant raspberries is still carried out. Leave annual stems. They produce a much higher quality harvest than perennial shoots. You need to cut off all the wood, leaving only small shoots.

Remember, the raspberry harvest next year depends on how well the preparation and covering of the raspberry bushes were carried out for the winter.

Video “Preparing remontant raspberries in the fall”

From the video you will learn about preparing bushes for wintering.

Let these mistakes not become yours: remontant raspberries, care in the fall and preparation for winter - agronomists advise, experienced farmers recommend.

Remontant raspberries: our 7 mistakes in care and preparation for winter

What are we doing wrong when taking care of our repairmen? Our mistakes, care rules, subtleties of agricultural technology.

Remontant raspberries, care in the fall and their preparation for winter: do not make these mistakes - agronomists warn.

Two harvests

The mistake is major, paramount. Remontant culture - it has a catch: it also bears fruit on the shoots current year, and gives the harvest on last year's shoots: in the first year - at the top, in the second - on the rest of the stem.

But bad luck: one harvest is always better than two – both quantitatively and qualitatively.

And when grown in a two-year cycle, a good part of the second harvest is guaranteed to go into winter. This is true for the Moscow region, and the harsh truth of life for the regions to the north.

And also: by getting rid of this year’s shoots, we are increasing the agricultural background. Together with the fruiting stems, all pests go away into the winter: gall midges, raspberry mosquitoes and others, as well as diseases. No stems - no problem.

Restored raspberries need only one care in the fall: mowing.

How to do the right thing. A remontant variety is a chance to save raspberries in cold regions from freezing in winter in the Urals and Siberia during winters with little snow, at critically low temperatures, and to save yourself from headaches: you don’t need to bend it down, tie it down, dig it in, or cover it. She doesn't need anything - just trimming. This is especially true for commercial plantings.

In the description of most modern remontant forms, the authors of the variety themselves or the copyright holders give advice: the variety is recommended for cultivation in a one-year cycle, for one harvest.

This also applies domestic varieties, and varieties of Polish selection, English forms - any.

Early mowing of shoots

Remontants bear fruit until October-November in the southern regions, until frost in any region. And immediately upon completion or without waiting for it, gardeners begin cutting out shoots - according to the habit developed when working with summer crops.

Preparing remontant raspberries for the winter ahead: autumn work in the raspberry garden.

And in vain. It is correct to do this after the end of sap flow - or before it begins, in October-November, before snow falls.

And in the case of summer raspberries, the classic phrase “prune at the end of fruiting” is harmful advice.

Why? This is how all shrubs are structured: at the beginning of the growing season and in summer, all nutrients move from bottom to top, from the root to the above-ground part. At the end of the growing season, the process is reversed: nutritional plastic substances move down to the roots - and they will be useful to them.

What to do? If remontant raspberries bear fruit in the fall until October, let them stand. Work begins after complete leaf fall, with the first frosts - precisely after the end of sap flow.

Don't rush into autumn mowing: the whole autumn is ahead! And even winter.

Many experienced farmers are in no hurry with the event: neither in preparation for winter, nor in the new season. They do not cut out fruit-bearing stems until replacement shoots appear in the spring.

This is especially true for southern regions. By the way, with reference to the book by Kazakov I.V. “Remontant raspberries in Russia”, where the author advises holding the event in the new season, incl. on South.

Why? There is an opinion that autumn mowing provokes an early awakening, which in a warm winter, early or with little snow, threatens lunges.

The advice is valid for those who grow for two crops: the roots need nutrition, and mowing the stems during sap flow is fraught with disease and freezing.

But there is also a second side to the two-faced repairman. There will be tying, bending and all kinds of insulation of raspberries before winter. And a later event will negate the feasibility of the following. And this is the next mistake.

Late ducking

Both in books from the times of the USSR and in publications they gave incorrect advice, which they still follow today and advise others. Benching raspberries in the fall to prepare for winter is important during the green stem stage. Brown woody shoots are brittle and crack.

How to tie. The stems are collected in bunches, tilted either sequentially in arcs, or towards each other, tied. The height of the bent vines is up to half a meter, so that the snow is guaranteed to cover the raspberries.

It is important to hold the event before the end of September-beginning of October.

Alas, for remontant forms this is practically impossible: how to bend it if it is still in the berries?

That is why cultivation is practiced in a one-year cycle, followed by cutting out the stems. But - with new errors.

About hemp

When pruning in autumn, remontant forms do not leave stumps - this is an axiom.

Why? The rest of the stem will freeze, and will lead to the death of the root buds and the rhizome itself: proven by the practices of the northern regions and beyond. The stems are cut even below ground level.

About watering

In the bustle and haste when preparing repair raspberries for winter, they forget about the main thing: moisture-replenishing watering. And this is the key to successful wintering of plants, preservation of soil structure, protection from deep freezing.

Watering is carried out both after fruiting, as the soil dries out, and until the end of October.

And even when mowing, it is needed: the rhizome with root buds and young shoots remain (if any remain).

About fertilizing: fertilizing remontant raspberries in the fall

Don’t wake her up - I would like to say to gardeners who “feed” raspberries in the fall with organic matter. They use: fresh manure of all kinds, bedding and other delights of animal husbandry. Raspberries don't need them. The best option is to mulch after the soil has frozen to avoid burning the roots.

And even better - rotted manure, humus as mulch. And best of all, not in the fall, not before winter.

How so – what about the experience of generations? And generations of summer residents collected a bunch of dry berries and rejoiced, not realizing that nitrogen was not needed when caring for raspberries in the fall.

Plants are finishing their growing season and are preparing to go dormant in the winter. Nitrogen prolongs the growing season, gives impetus to the growth of the above-ground parts and root buds.

As a result, the wood does not ripen - hence the frozen branches, frequent attacks - freezing of the root system, there is no young growth or replacement shoots.

And all because remontant raspberries and others did not face the winter in a state of dormancy: even -5 C during active vegetation is destructive for them.

And what to feed? In the autumn, until October-November, they add mineral nutrition– potassium for shoot ripening, phosphorus for the root system, microelements. In what form is up to the owner: even newfangled microfertilizers in chelated form or in an osmotic coating, the so-called. osmocotes, at least the good old one.

About mulching

Mulch like stems left in the fall for the second year, insulate them in northern regions and cut bushes, and left root shoots. Whether to leave it or not in cold areas is a controversial question, and the answer is individual in each individual case. The question is about the material for mulching.

• Wood shavings or sawdust. When preparing repair raspberries for winter, mulch the root zone or rows with sawdust and shavings. Meanwhile, in the spring, the shavings delay, according to objective reviews, fruiting by two weeks. How? Prevents the soil from warming up in the spring and retains a layer of snow. The moisture-absorbing material also absorbs moisture, which means flooding of the roots during a thaw and icing during subsequent frosts in the middle of winter. Sawdust is good in late spring: it retains moisture and maintains the loose structure of the soil.
• Leaf litter, straw - this is not winter materials. In addition, litter is a winter haven for pests, which are happy to wake up in the raspberry bush.
• Peat. This is both fertilizer and protection against travel in winters with little snow. But, again, it prevents the soil from warming up and retains moisture.

And how to cover, bend or mow these remontant raspberries in the fall when they are all covered in berries?

What to do? There is light humus mixed with soil from the rows, there is mulching agrofabric or covering agrofibre, for example - the simplest and most reliable material. It does not heat - it slows down heat transfer and prevents the soil from freezing both in the rows and between the rows. It is also good for covering stems for the winter with low snow cover, and for covering young seedlings in winter.

Raspberries are not the easiest to care for berry bush: She requires constant care. At the same time, autumn events are also very important. It is the correctness of their implementation that determines how the shrub will overwinter and how full the next year’s harvest will be. Autumn chores begin immediately after harvest.

U Caring for raspberries in early autumn

On the list necessary measures some apply equally to both regular and remontant raspberries, while others vary significantly. The timing also differs significantly: when ordinary varieties are already preparing for winter, remontant raspberries are still bearing fruit.

Summer is coming to an end, but thanks to BioGrow there is still time to grow crops. BioGrow is a plant growth bioactivator, which will increase yield by 50% in just 2-3 applications.

Immediately after harvesting, raspberries should be fed and pruned. Actually, it’s not autumn yet, but usually the end of August.

P Feeding and watering

Raspberries use up a lot of nutrients. When planting, the area is well fertilized, but also regular feeding contribute throughout the life of the plantation. The amount of fertilizer depends on the fertility of the soil, but you cannot do without it. At the end of summer nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, and potassium and phosphorus are necessary for the full ripening of shoots and their preparation for wintering.

Immediately after picking berries, raspberries need to be fed. 1 tbsp is enough. Dissolve a spoonful of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water and use it for 1 m2 of raspberry. Instead, you can scatter a handful wood ash and hoe it shallowly into the soil, then water it. And at the very end of September, apply pre-winter fertilizing.

For raspberries, not only humus can be used, but also semi-rotted manure. You can also use compost. A bucket of organic matter is required per 1 m2. It is scattered between the bushes and shallowly dug up between the rows.

A little manure can be left uncovered: it will act as mulch, and by spring it will completely rot.

Bird droppings are a more concentrated fertilizer; several times less is required. The droppings are introduced only in the form of a solution: an infusion is prepared in a ratio of approximately 1:10 with water and allowed to ferment for 2–3 days. From organic fertilizers Peat also suits raspberries well.

Litter is an excellent fertilizer, but it contains a lot of nitrogen, so you can’t overdo it in the fall

Mineral fertilizers are not abused, but once every 3 years you can add them instead of organic matter. An approximate calculation is 50–60 g of superphosphate and 30–40 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2. They are buried in shallow grooves along the periphery of the bushes and then watered well. At the same time, 3–5 g of manganese and zinc sulfates would be useful.

In addition to the water required when applying fertilizers, other irrigations in the fall are carried out only in very dry weather. Otherwise, the shoots will continue to grow instead of becoming woody. At complete absence When it rains in the fall, you should pour 1–2 buckets of water per 1 m2 every two weeks.

ABOUT Trimming

Pruning regular raspberries is simple. Since it bears fruit on second-year canes, they can be cut at ground level immediately after picking the berries to avoid taking away nutrients. As for annual shoots, they are left in the required quantity.

With ordinary raspberries, everything is clear: after fruiting, the old shoots are “under the knife”

The shoot-forming ability depends on the variety, but usually they try to keep 8–12 pieces in a bush. The rest are deleted. First of all, this applies to the weakest, twisted and damaged. The tops of the shoots that are left in August or September can be slightly trimmed (by no more than 1/4): this leads to accelerated ripening of the shoots and the appearance of side branches, that is, to an increase in the yield.

P Pre-winter chores

When the temperature was close to zero (late October or early November), the foliage almost flew off, life cycle in the raspberry patch is suspended. At this time, previous operations are “cleaned up” and others are performed. Most likely, there are shoots left that are green. They will not survive winter, so they must be removed with clean pruning shears. Shortly before real frosts, winter watering is carried out at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per 1 m2.

P Preventative treatment

In winter, raspberries should leave clean and healthy. All plant debris (fallen leaves, stem cuttings, weed debris) should be raked and burned, and then the stems should be sprayed with fungicides. If there is nothing wrong with the raspberries, Bordeaux mixture is enough. During this period, use a 3% solution, abundantly irrigating all the bushes with it.

In the fall, in the raspberry garden you can use strong, 3%, or even more, solutions of Bordeaux mixture

If there were numerous pests in the raspberry field, treatment against them should be repeated now. You can use any approved insecticides, for example, Aktaru or Allegro.

U Sheltering raspberries for the winter

Most raspberry varieties are frost-resistant, and require serious winter shelter only in harsh climatic regions, especially in the case of snowless winters. The best shelter is snow, so it is important to create conditions so that it does not blow away from the plantation, but rather covers the bushes.

Each gardener decides for himself how easier it is to technically bend the shoots to the ground. It is important not to break them: at low temperatures they are especially fragile. The bent shoots are tied together, or better yet, tied to small pegs driven into the ground.

It is imperative to bend down shoots in late autumn, and cover them only in snowless and cold regions

If the snow can be blown away by the winds, it is worth protecting the raspberry tree with shields. Anything that holds back gusts of wind is suitable. If it is known that snow falls late and there is little of it, it is better to cover the connected bunches of shoots with non-woven material. Instead, you can use coniferous spruce branches. It is important to construct the shelter on time: constructing it too early is fraught with damping off of the bushes, and later - freezing. It is necessary to remove the shelter in time in the spring: no later than the beginning or middle of April.

ABOUT Features of caring for remontant raspberries

In the case of remontant varieties, there are significant differences in autumn activities, especially with regard to pruning: after all, such raspberries bear fruit on shoots of both the second and current year. Depending on the variety and the owner’s preferences, it is possible to leave this year’s shoots and harvest two harvests, or to remove them, when all the raspberry’s forces are directed to fruiting on annual shoots.

Since in autumn the shrub, as a rule, still has berries, abundant watering continues almost until the end of the season or until heavy rains begin. Feeding is carried out after autumn pruning, according to the same standards as for regular raspberries. The same applies to spraying raspberries against diseases: if in winter they leave with shoots, then shortly before sheltering the bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture.

Options are possible with pruning. If remontant raspberries are grown for harvesting only from annual shoots, then all shoots are cut out a week and a half before establishing a stable negative temperature air. When they want to get two harvests, they leave the annual shoots, cutting out only the diseased, broken and obviously unnecessary ones. If they still have leaves when frost sets in, they should be torn off.

Most often in the fall, only small stumps are left from remontant raspberries

Remontant raspberries require shelter for the winter more often than regular raspberries: they are less winter-hardy. When the above-ground part is completely cut out, the empty bed is mulched for the winter with a thick layer of peat, sawdust or humus, and in cold regions a spunbond cover is also added. If annual shoots are left, they are treated in the same way as in the case of ordinary varieties.

Proper preparation of the raspberry tree for winter is the key to its successful wintering and bountiful harvests. All autumn activities are simple, but they must be strictly followed.

When growing raspberries, you should not relax after harvesting. Compliance with the rules for caring for raspberries in the fall and preparation for winter will ensure excellent harvests in the following seasons. Main types autumn work in the raspberry field: weeding, pruning, fertilizing, watering, preparing for winter.

Nuances of autumn application of fertilizers

As soon as the harvest is harvested, it is necessary to take care of feeding the plants. Thanks to organic and inorganic fertilizers, root system accumulates a supply of useful substances. What is very necessary for the full development of bushes next season.

It is not recommended to use formulations with a high nitrogen content. Since the use of nitrogen stimulates the growth of new branches and green mass. Fresh shoots usually do not have time to grow stronger before the first frost, which can lead to the death of the entire bush.

Phosphorus and potassium will help plants survive the winter safely. Applying fertilizers in September will allow the plants to still have time to absorb nutrients before frost. Feeding will also contribute to the active formation of the ovary next season.

• Potassium additionally increases the frost resistance of plants. Potassium is added to a depth of 7 cm (the dose for an individual bush is 40 g).
• It is recommended to apply superphosphate to a depth of at least 5-7 cm at the rate of 50-60 g for each bush.

Oktyabrina Ganichkina advises as autumn feeding use the complex mineral mixture "Agricola" (for berry crops). 50 g of the mixture are diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water. This amount is enough to feed 12-15 bushes.

Rules for pruning bushes

Clearing the raspberry tree from old, dry or broken branches is an indispensable step in caring for raspberries in the fall. At the same time, experienced gardeners recommend removing two-year-old shoots. Because in the third season it is still possible to harvest from these branches, but the berries will already be small and few in number.

Such shoots will weaken the bush, so it is advisable to cut them out in the fall.

It is not difficult to identify two-year-olds among the bushes - they are distinguished by their dark, cracked bark.

It is also better to get rid of green growth when sanitary pruning, since small shoots may not tolerate severe frosts. Any cuts are made at ground level to exclude the possibility of pests overwintering and breeding in the stumps.

More information about in pictures and diagrams

When caring for remontant raspberries, pruning dates can be postponed to more late time. Since the bushes are also capable of bearing fruit in late autumn.

Features of preparing raspberries for winter

Naturally, raspberries of any variety (even frost-resistant ones) tolerate the winter period more favorably under snow cover. Experienced gardeners warn that in severe frosts flower buds, not protected by shelter, can freeze out.

After taking care of raspberries in the fall, preparing for winter is the next stage. Before covering work you should:

• the leaves remaining on the branches are carefully cut off;
• fallen leaves are carefully raked out and burned.

A common technique for preparing bushes for wintering is bending the raspberry stems to the ground and carefully fixing the bush in this position.

Some summer residents don’t particularly bother with the procedure - they simply tilt the bush to the ground and press down the stems with boards and slate. This method cannot be called universal, since the branches are not fixed securely.

It is important not to miss the moment of frost. As long as the branches are flexible, this procedure is not difficult to do. However, if the moment is missed, the branches may break due to frost.

If it is not possible to specially cover the raspberries with something, it is recommended to at least fix the bushes at a low height. To do this, a wire or rope is pulled near the rows of raspberries, at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ground, and raspberry stems are tied to them.

In this position, the branches will be covered with snow and will quietly overwinter.

If there is usually little snowfall in winter or strong winds are frequent, it is necessary to build snow barriers. These can be sheets of polycarbonate, slate, plywood. Some summer residents cover the soil with straw and mown grass. Mulch will protect the raspberry root system.

Useful video about preparing raspberries for winter from the “Garden Head” channel:

Nuances of caring for different varieties

The variety of varieties allows you to choose raspberries according to your taste, following simple rules of care. It is proper care of plants that allows you to collect voluminous harvests of berries.

The best option for growing raspberries is to plant several varieties. Then you won’t have to worry about an unsuccessful summer season.

Yellow raspberry

This variety belongs to the remontant species. The variety is characterized by long-term fruiting and disease resistance. The plant develops well on sandy soils. Features of the variety: root shoots do not grow, low frost resistance, does not require special care, has a strong root system.

The yield of raspberries is determined by the power of the bush in the first years of life. Therefore, sufficient nitrogen availability is very important for the plant. Fertilizer application is divided into two periods: spring and autumn. The best nitrogen fertilizer is urea (50 g diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water, a liter of solution is poured under each bush).

In autumn, plants are watered almost before frost. Since moist soil increases the winter hardiness of raspberries.

Black raspberry

perennial shrub can be classified as an exotic variety - not in every area you will find this original species. Powerful stems with sharp thorns grow 2-3 meters long. To feed plants, both organic and inorganic fertilizers are used.

The easiest way is to use complex formulations: bird droppings are diluted in water at a ratio of 1:17, and 50 g of superphosphate is added to a bucket of solution. It is advisable to apply fertilizer simultaneously with or before watering.

Depending on the climate, the bushes are left to overwinter in open form or they hide.

• In the southern regions, you can leave the stems on a trellis; it is only recommended to secure the bush well.
• In regions with harsh winters, bushes are bent to the ground, but not laid on the ground. Cover the plants with special material.

Tree raspberry

These varieties are standard and are considered the most fertile. For breeding, remontant varieties are chosen (the berries ripen throughout the season, the branches are cut off in the fall after harvest) and perennial (does not need pruning).

IN autumn period The soil in the raspberry garden is enriched with peat and compost. Phosphorus and potassium supplements help the plant form a powerful root system. After fertilizing, it is recommended to mulch the soil (straw, onion peels, peat).

Raspberries prefer moderate watering, so after harvesting, it is enough to pour about half a bucket of water under each bush once a week.

After the leaves fall, the bushes are prepared for wintering: the stems are tilted to the ground and fixed. To secure the bush, the branches are tied to trellises or some kind of weight is used. When growing tree raspberries in regions with a mild climate, you don’t have to specially cover them - just firmly fix the plant on a trellis.

Caring for remontant raspberries in the fall, preparing for winter

The difference between remontant raspberry varieties and regular varieties lies in the characteristics of fruiting. Berries on the bush are formed on one-year and two-year-old shoots. The harvest on the branches of the current year ripens in August - September.

It turns out that the gardener has the opportunity to get two harvests from one raspberry bush per season: in July on last year’s branches, in September on the current year’s shoots.

Giving a double harvest, the bush experiences serious stress and requires careful care. In the autumn, after harvesting, it is necessary to prune, fertilize and prepare the plant for winter.

To ensure that the results of the season do not disappoint, it is important to follow the rules for caring for remontant raspberries in the fall and preparing them for winter:

• Since the root system is located superficially, it is not recommended to diligently weed or dig up the beds in the fall. Mulching the soil will help prevent the active growth of weeds;
• application mineral fertilizers(superphosphate, potassium sulfate). after the autumn berry picking will be a guarantee good harvest next year;
• Proper pruning has a positive effect on future harvests. The main pruning of raspberries is carried out in October-November. Thanks to this, you can get rid of pests and increase fertility next year;
• Since abundant watering is necessary only during the fruiting period, in the fall the bush is watered on the eve of the first autumn frosts.

Autumn feeding of remontant raspberries

In autumn, raspberries need nutrients to prepare the root system for winter and to lay new fruit buds on the shoots. This plant will be helped mineral compounds with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus.

Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied in the fall.

Mineral fertilizers

On sandy and poor soils, add 1 tbsp to each raspberry bush. spoon of superphosphate and potassium salt. On humus-rich soils, it is enough to apply half the dose. Fertilizers are mixed and evenly distributed over the surface of the earth, slightly loosening the soil.

If the weather is dry, the plants should be watered, spending 20-30 liters of water on each bush.

Ash

The product from burning wood and grass is a rich source of potassium, phosphorus and other elements important for the life of the plant. Ash is applied in the amount of 1 full glass per bush, scattering the substance over the surface of the ground.

It is prohibited to use ash from burning polyethylene, printed materials, and plastics! It contains carcinogens - substances hazardous to health.

Humus

Before the onset of winter, it is useful to mulch raspberries with humus. This is not only additional protection of the plant roots from frost, but also fertilizing the crop. They use manure that has lain in heaps for at least 3 years or humus from plant residues (compost).

The consumption rate for humus is a bucket per bush.

Green manure

An interesting option for autumn feeding of raspberries is to grow green manure crops in rows:

• lupine,
• phacelia,
• comfrey,
• wiki.

A continuous grass cover protects the soil from overheating and retains moisture deep down.

When the rapidly growing green mass reaches a height of 20 cm, it is embedded in the soil with a hoe or flat cutter. The greens, gradually rotting, feed the raspberry roots and serve as additional shelter from the cold.

Pruning remontant raspberries

There are two ways to prune a plant. In the first case, all raspberry shoots are cut out at the root, without exception. The following year, the harvest is harvested from annual branches at the end of summer. The advantage of this method is the absence of work on tying and covering shoots for the winter and preventing the development of diseases and pests - pathogens and harmful insects simply have nowhere to winter.

The disadvantage of this pruning option is that the raspberry bush bears fruit once only at the end of summer.

The second way to form a raspberry bush is to leave two-year-old branches on the plant. Usually, no more than 5 strong shoots are preserved, which will be joined by another 5-6 branches from young shoots next year. Thus, the gardener will receive a double harvest.

It is necessary to strictly follow the schedule of fertilizing and watering raspberries so that the plant does not weaken.

Sheltering remontant raspberries for the winter

On the shoots left in the winter, shorten the top by 20 cm, brush off the leaves if they have not flown off on their own.

• The shoots are tied in a bundle and bent to the ground, secured with twine, tying it to pegs.
• The top of the raspberry tree is covered with spruce branches or covered with lutrasil.
• In winter, add additional snow to the bushes.

To prevent the shoots from being blocked by the spring melt water, pieces of boards or pieces of slate are placed under them.

The procedure is carried out when the air temperature during the day already drops below 0.

In the video below you will find information about caring for remontant raspberries in the fall and preparing for winter.

Autumn pest control

The key to a rich harvest next season is treating raspberries from pests and diseases. After harvesting, it is recommended to thoroughly weed the area and loosen the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm. These measures will help get rid of pests remaining in the foliage and will not allow the larvae to overwinter in the soil.

The most common harmful insects include: raspberry beetle, flower beetle, spider mite, stem fly.

Raspberry beetle

It can significantly reduce the yield of berries or even lead to the death of the plant. Insects eat buds and fruits. The berries are poorly formed, grow deformed, wither and rot.

Beetles/larvae overwinter in the upper layers of soil (at a depth of 15-20 cm.

Spider mite

Most often it lives on the underside of leaves. Feeding on plant sap and reproducing, the mite gradually affects all parts of the bush: buds, leaves, shoots. When plants are damaged, flowering stops and the formed buds disappear.

A favorable environment for pest reproduction is dense plantings and dry weather.

With the active spread of the mite, you can lose up to 70% of the crop. The tick overwinters on fallen leaves and weeds, so destroying dry leaves and weeding the beds are the best prophylactic agents pest control.

Stem fly

Actively develops in plant branches, causing shoots to wither. To prevent the spread of the pest, it is recommended to cut off the damaged tops of the stems.

You should not be too zealous - only the upper part of the infected stems is cut out. The cut parts are immediately burned because the larvae remain in them.

The optimal means of controlling insects is the autumn application of insecticides. Several products have proven themselves to be effective:

• Funafon - 10 ml of the product is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water. A liter of solution is enough to treat one bush;
• Intavir is available in tablets. One tablet is dissolved in a bucket of water;
• Actellik - sold in 2 ml ampoules. To prepare the solution, dilute one ampoule in two liters of water.

A solution of copper/iron sulfate can protect bushes from lichen, moss or fungi. To increase the effect, it is recommended, in addition to the plants, to treat the soil near the raspberries.

Favorable and unfavorable days according to the Lunar calendar

In the fall of 2018, the greatest benefit will come from caring for plants on the following days:

• September – 23 and 24, from 26 to 30;
• October – from 1 to 3, 8, from 10 to 16, from 20 to 23, from 25 to 30.

Caring for raspberries in the fall and preparing for winter do not involve special, difficult activities. If you follow all the recommendations consistently experienced gardeners, then even novice summer residents and gardeners can grow and collect decent harvests delicious berries.