Currently, you can find a considerable number of houses that do not have central heating. This problem The Dutch oven will help you decide. Making it with your own hands is quite easy. The main thing in this matter is compliance with all technical requirements. This will be discussed further below.

The difference between “Dutch ovens” and other types of ovens

Much has been noted in this direction interesting facts. The main characteristic difference between the “Dutch” stove and other types of stoves is that its design has a spacious combustion chamber. This is an important fact. Experts also note that it has a fairly simple and at the same time thoughtful design. It ensures uniform and high-quality heating of the entire working volume of this device. The presence of a significant cubic capacity of the above-mentioned chamber is an essential element. This ensures gradual heating of the entire room in which this stove is located. Level maximum temperature at the same time, on the brick outer cladding of the specified device it is set in the region of 60-70 °C.

Among other things, as noted by experts in this field, this type of heating products is fully an environmentally friendly variation of residential heating using “clean” fuel. Possessing excellent thoughtfulness and expediency of design, efficiency, high degree of fire safety and many other equally significant properties, the Dutch oven is a reliable and high-quality device. This product has an average warranty period of at least 25 years. We will consider the pros and cons of this device below.

Advantages

The main advantage of this type of furnace is the flexibility of its design. It allows you to lay out a hob, build in an oven, and also provides installation of a boiler for the building’s heating system. In this case, a small amount of necessary material will be required, in comparison with other types of furnaces that have similar power and functionality. To ensure effective heating, there will be no need to carry out complex calculations, or select special building materials. Since the Dutch oven created with your own hands releases the maximum amount of heat into the room, and the remaining gases are removed into a special pipe. Particular attention should be paid only to the construction of the combustion chamber, and it should be laid out from high-quality refractory bricks. Having thin walls and passages in the chimney, this stove does not require constant heating and high fuel consumption. This is an important property. Moreover, this device is capable of heating quite large areas (up to 50 m²).

Description of the shortcomings

IN in this case The downside is the presence of low efficiency. Its value for different designs of the specified device cannot exceed 40%. However, in comparison with other stove devices, this is a pretty good indicator. Having an open view on the pipe, after burning the fuel, the Dutch oven will quickly cool down. As a result, there is a certain condition in this case. It lies in the fact that it will not be possible to heat with fuel that burns quickly. This is due to the fact that the draft will remove all the heat from the system.

This is due to the fact that the greatest efficiency is achieved through slow burning and subsequent smoldering. If you burn with cheap fuel with ash, then a lot of soot settles on the chimney and draft is lost.

Design features

There is nothing complicated in this case. You can choose almost any base configuration. It can be round, rectangular or oval. For small structures, the walls must be built in one brick, and in two - for massive stoves that are intended for heating large cottages. This thickness contributes to minimal fuel consumption and high heat transfer.

The laying out of this structure must begin with a previously prepared foundation. This is important to remember. As a result of this, the Dutch oven diagram must separately contain calculations of the foundation parameters, based on the dimensions of the above-ground structure. The location of the firebox should be at least 25-30 cm above the floor. This is necessary to ensure quick and uniform heating of the room. The Dutch oven differs from other designs of this type in some specific features. Namely:

• The fuel tank is voluminous. However, he does not have a blower underneath him.
• The firebox always has rectangular shape. This is true even in curved structures.
• This furnace has three lifting and releasing channels. They are located one above the other and ensure consistency of gas movement.

Do-it-yourself Dutch oven: tools and materials for making

To carry out the construction of this facility, it is necessary to thoroughly prepare. The Dutch oven with stove to be constructed requires:

Stock of solid red brick.

Pre-cleaned river sand.

Refractory bricks to equip the combustion chamber.

Construction clay.

Cement.

Concrete for foundation construction.

Door for the ash pit and firebox.

Grate grates.

Steel wire for installing doors.

Rectangular sledgehammer.

Combined trowels.

A sharp-angled sledgehammer.

Wooden and metal tampers.

Hammer pickaxe.

Joints for convex and concave seams.

Mortar blades.

Material for waterproofing.

Measuring tape.

Asbestos cord.

Foundation

Each massive structure must rest on a specific foundation. In order for the Dutch oven to be manufactured, the creation of a foundation will also be required. The simplest process is to install the slab into the base. In this case, one certain nuance arises. It lies in the fact that it is imperative to reinforce the slab under the Dutch oven, covering not only its entire area, but also its volume. Here you should take into account certain dimensions. The minimum length/width of the slab should be 120 cm. The second nuance is that sand should be filled between the foundations of the house and the stove.

Foundation work

Certain actions need to be taken in this direction. Namely:

• It should be noted the dimensions of the planned structure. If the building already has flooring, then you need to disassemble it. What should be taken into account here is that you still need to make room for work.
• It is necessary to stir the solution in standard proportions - 1:3.
• Then you should fill the first element of the slab. At the same time, you should not deepen it too much.
• Next, on the surface of the mortar layer that has not yet hardened, it is necessary to lay the reinforcing bars with a mesh. The distance between them should be 10-12 cm.
• After this, you must immediately pour the rest of the mortar over the laid reinforcement and level the surface. In this case there is a certain condition. It lies in the fact that the smoother it is foundation slab, the easier it will be to follow the order of the Dutch oven.
• Next, you need to “iron” the foundation surface that has not yet hardened. To do this, you just need to sprinkle clean cement on it. In this case, you should not be particularly zealous. To distribute the cement more evenly, you can use a sieve.

Let's start the masonry process

To do this, follow these steps:

• Initially, it is necessary to apply a waterproofing layer to the foundation. To do this, you can take a special film, waterproofing, pieces of roofing felt and roofing felt or other materials.
• A small layer (no more than 5 cm) of sifted river sand should be poured over the waterproofing coating. After this, you need to level it and check the horizontal plane with a level. Then you need to sprinkle the sand with water.
• The construction of such a device as a Dutch oven begins by laying the first row without mortar. For medium-sized structures, this is approximately 12 bricks. They must initially be laid out correctly, then checked for level and only then pour a small layer of solution on top. This must be done over the entire upper surface.
• The second and third rows are already laid using mortar. There is a certain nuance here. It consists in the fact that in the third - last - row, where the bricks lie “flat”, the rest of the bricks are laid “on edge” up to the upper side of the firebox door.
• Starting from the 4th or 5th row, refractory bricks are used. They are usually yellow in color.
• Next, on the 4th or 5th row, install a stand for the internal chimney partition. “Kick-out bricks” are laid on the back wall without mortar. If the Dutch oven becomes clogged during long-term use, they will be pulled out for cleaning. You can also put a door here. However, the heat will disappear faster.
• Then you need to install the firebox door. It is advisable to pre-wrap it with asbestos. However, this can be done with other non-flammable material. The door is fixed in the masonry joints. For this purpose, steel wire is used.
• In subsequent rows it is necessary to repeat the contours of the fourth. This is done to the top of the door. This is important to know. The order of the Dutch oven can be changed before the door is installed. It depends on the height of the structure. Then, after finishing the door trim, the bricks must be laid flat again. This usually starts from the 7th row. On the sixth, bricks are placed further on edge. After this, it is again necessary to carefully check the dressing, as well as the location and horizontality of the corners.
• Please note that the bricks in the seventh row must be laid flat. However, on the back wall they must be left on the edge. And only then will all subsequent rows be laid out flat. This is an important process.
• In the eighth row, beveled bricks are laid out above the firebox. This is the characteristic originality of the design. This layout of the Dutch oven allows you to use this building as a fireplace. This is a pretty important function. This masonry already completely covers the furnace door.
• In the ninth row, the brick needs to be moved back a little. Non-combustible material should be laid along the top of this masonry. This is best done using an asbestos cord, on top of which you need to install a hob. Do not forget that you need to ensure that the joints, seams and joints of cast iron and brick are completely sealed.
• In the 10th row it is necessary to form the base for the planned chimney. For light and medium type stoves, this element is not constructed from brick. It is too heavy. To do this, you need to select a metal pipe.
• In the eleventh row, a valve with an asbestos seal is inserted. Also at this height it is necessary to form a joint between the stove and the chimney pipe. In this case, the laying is carried out in quarters.
• After the laying of the Dutch oven has been completed, the chimney should be installed on top of the structure. This technology is the same for all types of ovens. The gap between this structure and the floor must be closed with a pre-furnace sheet. If this is not done, then sand will simply spill out from under the resulting structure.

The constructed Dutch oven can be faced using glazed tiles. You can also whitewash, paint the structure, or leave it like that without using external finishing. Using special skirting boards, all joints with the floor are closed. After laying out the oven is completed, it should dry for 2 weeks with door open firebox Before this, lighting a strong fire is prohibited. The draft is checked by burning a small amount of paper in the firebox.

Bottom line

Having read the above, everyone can imagine what a Dutch oven made of brick is, how it is built, as well as what materials and tools are needed for this. You just need to read the text carefully.

Collapse

“Dutch” is a rectangular oven. It has proven itself to be an excellent unit capable of efficiently heating a room. In addition, it is able to retain heat for a long time. A standard Dutch oven is not suitable for cooking, but in this article we will talk about how to build a Dutch oven with hob.

Principle of operation

If there is a stove and an oven in a Dutch oven, the operating principle of the oven is such that the heat from the firebox heats both the oven and the hob. The oven, as a rule, heats up more, as it is located closer to the firebox.

Gas flow diagram

The only disadvantage of this oven is the inability to control the temperature. At the same time, this is an excellent energy saving.

Basic rules for arrangement

Unlike the Russian stove, which is very multifunctional, being both a source of heat, a stove bench, and a place for cooking, the Dutch stove was originally created only as a means of heating.

To maximize the functionality of an overseas hearth, domestic stove makers supplemented it with a hob. This Dutch oven with stove and oven is ideal for small house, and also if you do not want to clutter the room with a large stove.

The manufacturing technology of the unit is quite simple. The stove is placed in a niche of the structure, just above the firebox, approximately the third - fifth row. The oven is built parallel to the firebox.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

If hob is not needed, then the oven is placed directly above the firebox, but we still advise you not to ignore the stove: firstly, it will never be superfluous, and secondly, there are excellent design solutions arrangement of the stove, where the hob perfectly complements appearance Dutch women

Photo of Dutch ovens with stove and oven (located on the same level as the firebox):

Necessary materials

The Dutch oven is installed with your own hands using a certain technology. To fold it correctly, we will need the following materials:

• Sand;
• Construction clay;
• Regular brick and fireclay brick for firebox;
• Water;
• Valves;
• Doors for firebox and blower;
• Doors for cleaning;
• Steel wire;
• Grate;
• Asbestos cord;
• A steel strip half a centimeter thick;
• Crushed stone, reinforcement and concrete or brick for the foundation.

All these materials must be prepared before laying the foundation. Construction tools should also be available.

Required Tools

To work you will need the following tools:

• Kiln hammer and pick hammer. They are used to process bricks. Splitting and hewing are impossible without a hammer. The pick, due to its shape, is suitable for punching holes. Also, sloppy seams between bricks are processed with a hammer if the mortar has already hardened.
• Trowel. The trowel mixes the masonry mortar, scoops up the mortar with it and distributes it over the surface.
• Joinings. This tool helps to process the seams between bricks, giving them a neat appearance. The joints have different profiles cross section, you need to select them according to the size of the seam.
• Mortar shovel. Just like a trowel, it is suitable for mixing the mortar and distributing it over the bricks.
• Building level. For masonry, steel or wood is suitable. The level is designed to check the correctness of the horizontal row of masonry, and also allows you to determine whether the frames of the stove appliances are evenly placed.
• Square. Thanks to it, it is checked how correctly the corners of the masonry and the corners of the foundation are folded.
• Mooring cord. This thin cord is designed to check the symmetry of the masonry rows and the uniformity of the seams. It is used to determine the position of bricks.
• Rule. This wooden instrument It also determines how evenly the brick is laid.
• Plumb. Determines the uniformity of vertical brick laying.
• Wash brush. Grouting of surfaces occurs with it.
• Cycle and squealer. A steel scraper is necessary if the stove will be lined with tiles. With its help, tiles are cut. While grinding the cycles, it is struck with a hammer.
• Rasp. It is used to saw down tiles, and also removes sagging on the edges.

Furnace manufacturing stages

Now let's look at the main stages of laying a furnace from laying the foundation to test firing.

Making the foundation

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

The foundation is made of concrete or brick. The first option has a low cost and is durable, but laying it is quite labor-intensive. Brick foundation It is much easier to lay, but the cost compared to concrete will increase significantly.

Here we will talk about a concrete foundation:

1. To cast, you first need to dig a pit 60 cm deep. We fill it a quarter full with crushed stone.
2. Next, the reinforcing mesh is laid. The diameter of the reinforcement is about 16 millimeters. The laying step is fifteen centimeters. The reinforcement is knitted with wire. Where the reinforcement bars intersect, make vertical reinforcement.
3. The next step is to install the wooden formwork. It is done around the entire perimeter. We cover the walls with roofing felt. We pour sand into the bottom of the pit; the thickness of the filled sand should be approximately 5 centimeters. For waterproofing, it is necessary to put roofing material on top, preferably in several layers.
4. Pay attention to the quality of the sand. It should not contain clay particles, it should be crumbly.
5. Mixing concrete. It is advisable to use a concrete mixer - this will improve the quality of the mix. We pour concrete into the bottom of the pit and give it time to settle for strength. The period is approximately two weeks to a month.
6. After pouring the concrete, it should be sprinkled with cement chips to strengthen the foundation.

Preparing the solution

To prepare a simple solution, you only need water, clay and sand.

First you need to check the quality of the clay:

1. Half a liter of clay is diluted with a small amount of water and stirred well until smooth. The consistency should resemble dough. From the resulting mass roll two balls with a diameter of five centimeters. One of them is slightly flattened.
2. The balls are left to dry for two days at normal room temperature. If, after drying, no cracks have formed on them, then the clay is suitable for further use.
3. If cracks form, you should reduce the fat content of the clay by adding a little sand to it.

Option 3 - good quality

There are several ways to prepare clay mortar for masonry. We offer you a choice of a couple of the simplest and most common:

• Method number 1.

The clay is soaked for a couple of days, then mixed well while gradually adding sand. It is important to stir the solution thoroughly so that there are no clay lumps. You can check how correct the ratio of sand and clay is in the following way: apply a small layer of mortar to the brick and press it with another brick. If everything is done correctly, then after five minutes the bricks should not come apart from each other.

Preparation of the solution

• Method number 2.

1. Sand is poured into which small holes are made. Clay is poured on top, a little water is added, the whole thing is again covered with sand and left for a while to soften.
2. Next, the entire mass is thoroughly mixed, again there should be no lumps.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

Cement or lime mortar is also perfect. The cement-sand mixture is poured into a container, a depression is made in the middle, into which lime or clay is poured. Everything is mixed, if the consistency is too thick, then the mass is diluted with water.

Preparing a brick

Brick preparation is necessary if it is rough. Teska is used to make the brick look aesthetically pleasing, as well as to give it uniformity, since asymmetrical bars will eventually lead to the fact that the oven will sooner or later skewer.

Teska is a rather labor-intensive process. For uniformity, first a line is drawn on the brick using a square, or, more simply, using another brick that has correct form. Next, the cutting or chipping is done.

Order

Arranging a Dutch oven with a stove and oven

We propose to make a Dutch oven according to the above drawing. The laying diagram of a Dutch oven with a stove and oven will help you in your work.

And one more ordering option

Furnace laying

You saw the order above ().

Slab selection and installation

Stove plates are usually made of cast iron or glass ceramics:

• The cast iron stove can heat up to 800 degrees. At this temperature, cast iron expands. This must be kept in mind during installation.
• A glass-ceramic stove looks more aesthetically pleasing than cast iron, but is no worse in quality and functionality.

The plates are quite varied. They can have one or several burner holes; the holes themselves can be of different diameters. Surfaces with an absolutely uniform continuous surface are also popular.

There are a huge number of hob options on the market these days, so the choice is yours.

As for installation, no matter which slab you choose, the rules are the same for everyone:

1. When installing a hob in a brick, it is necessary to leave gaps. However, it is easier to simply reinforce it on top of the bricks.
2. Installation is carried out using mortar.
3. During the first kindling, it is advisable to anneal the slab. The oven should be heated slowly and gradually, increasing the temperature by about 80 degrees every hour.

Installation of the stove

Oven settings

It is advisable to buy a ready-made oven rather than make it yourself. A finished cast iron oven differs from a self-made brick oven in the following advantages:

• easily tolerates temperature changes
• stable
• retains heat for a long time.

The oven is installed directly above the firebox, but since our Dutch oven also has a stove, the oven is installed on the same level as the firebox.

Oven and stove location

Chimney laying

It is important to approach the laying of the chimney with maximum responsibility:

• The only materials you will need are mortar and brick. The brick should be well fired, and the mortar should be applied in a thin layer, preferably half a centimeter, in no case exceeding a thickness of a centimeter, since a thick layer will not be able to withstand temperature changes and will begin to crumble.
• It is better to take bricks whole, and the point here is not at all in aesthetics, but in the fact that whole bars create a more monolithic structure.
• We start laying from the top. We lay out the superstructure pipe. The brick is laid in almost the same way as when laying walls. It is important to maintain uniformity of horizontal and vertical rows.
• We use the same solution as when laying the stove. We carefully seal the seams, since if there are gaps, sparks will penetrate them.
• In the place where the chimney pipe meets the roof, waterproofing material should be used.

After all the work, you should end up with the following design:

Dutch oven and stove

Furnace finishing and lining

If the brick is carefully processed and the seams are uniform, then the Dutch brick does not really need additional finishing, since it already looks quite aesthetically pleasing. However, it is more difficult to care for an unfinished stove and remove dirt from it, whereas a tiled structure requires occasional wiping.

Another option is ceramic tiles. Designers offer many options for such cladding. Its disadvantage is its lack of resistance to high temperatures. Sooner or later it will start to fall off.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

An excellent option is tiling. They can withstand temperature changes perfectly, and the tiled stove resembles a work of art. But this option is quite expensive.

Be that as it may, there are many finishing options, you can always choose something to suit your taste.

Drying and test firing

At the end of the work, the stove should be left alone for a couple of weeks, or preferably more. During this time, all materials will dry and harden. Do not close the oven doors during this time.

After the specified period, it is worth making a test fire. First, burn several sheets of paper in the firebox to test the draft. If the smoke escapes through the chimney, everything is in order, you can smoothly start kindling, slowly heating the stove.

Conclusion

So, in this article we tried to give as much as possible detailed information about how to independently assemble a Dutch oven with a hob and stove, they talked about necessary materials and masonry technologies.

Whether to do Dutch masonry yourself or invite professionals is up to you. In any case, such a stove will be a wonderful and functional decoration for any home.

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One of the most popular brick ovens is the Dutch oven. Initially, it really came to us from Holland and quickly took root: it doesn’t take much material, it heats well. It has many names: galanka, gallandka, gulanka, Dutch, etc.

General structure of a Dutch oven

In the classic version, the Dutch oven is purely heating, with a wall of one brick, has a rectangular shape, and long chimney channels are built above the firebox. That is why, with low fuel consumption, it heats well: hot smoke warms up the bricks of the internal channels and, already significantly cooled, exits into the chimney. Initially, these stoves were lined with tiles.

In the same classic Dutch oven, the exit of the smoke channel is located on the side: the Dutch paid a tax on smoke, so several stoves were brought out into a common pipe. Moreover, problems with smoke in less heated stoves do not arise: long smoke channels are not easy to blow through even with reverse draft.

All this, and even the plasticity of the design, led to the appearance of many forms of Dutch ovens: in addition to the traditional rectangular and square ones, there are triangular, trapezoidal and round. There are no fewer options for use: pure heating, heating and cooking, with a stove bench, on one, two or three floors, with a fireplace, a tank for heating water and a tank for water heating. It's no surprise that this design is popular. Moreover, everything is so simple that anyone who has laid a brick wall with a bandage at least once can fold a Dutchman with their own hands. If you are planning to try your hand as a stove maker, choose the Dutch pattern and get to work.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's start with the pros:

There are many advantages, and they are all significant. But there are no shortcomings. This miracle of heating technology also has them:

• Demanding on fuel quality. In the sense that you need to heat it with wood or coal, and not with waste fuel or garbage. It is optimal precisely in the mode of smoldering, and not burning, and when burning with sawdust, brushwood or straw, there is nothing to smolder.
• If you forget to close the view after heating, it cools down very quickly: the heat is carried out through the channels.
• Low efficiency - about 40%.
• Since there is not much brick used for it, the heat capacity is also small. Therefore, to maintain a stable temperature, it must be heated at least twice a day. Moreover, you cannot overheat it: carbon monoxide may even escape.
• If you use wet, low-quality fuel, the channels quickly become overgrown with soot and have to be cleaned frequently.

As you can see, the main disadvantages are related to the operating features. If done correctly, a Dutch oven is an excellent heating device.

And this miracle is also a galanka heating stove in the Metropolitan’s chambers

Dutch women's routines

As has already been said, existing designs of finished stoves can be adjusted: made higher, lower, wider/narrower. If you don't make very serious mistakes, there won't be any problems. Below are several diagrams and orders of stoves different types and sizes.

Small stove for a summer residence

This small stove occupies a little more than 50 cm in perimeter. At the same time, it will effectively heat several small rooms. Can be used for masonry ceramic brick. If possible, line the firebox with fireclay fireproof grade ША-8 (rows 3 or at least 5 to 13).

Arranging a small stone Dutch oven will help you build it yourself (to enlarge the size of the picture, right-click on it)

Before you start laying, lay the foundation for the stove. It must be incoherent: have no points of contact with the main foundation of the building. The depth is the same as the main one, the dimensions are 15-20 cm wider than the planned dimensions of the furnace. In this case, 70*70 cm is sufficient. Cement-sand bedding is poured down the pit and carefully compacted. Then a rough screed is laid, a layer of insulation is placed on top of it, and a reinforced concrete slab is placed on top.

After the concrete has gained half its strength (at a temperature of +20°C it takes 4-5 days), you can begin laying the Dutch oven with your own hands. Just first you need to lay two layers of waterproofing (tar paper, glassine or more modern rolled materials).

Brief explanations about the order of this oven:

• The first two rows are solid. Here it is very important to accurately observe the geometry: the angles must be exactly 90°, the diagonals must be equal, the bricks must lie exactly on the horizon. (check with a good building level).
• In the third row, a blower door is installed, in the fifth it is closed. In the same row, the bricks are cut so that the grate rests on them. The dimensions of the “bed” should be approximately 5 mm larger than the grate. The gap between the grate and the brick can be filled with asbestos cord. To prevent it from becoming clogged with solution, place corrugated cardboard packaging on top. At the first kindling it will burn out, but the asbestos will remain clean.
• In the sixth row, a door is installed for loading fuel; in the eighth row, a metal strip 5 mm thick, about 50 mm wide, and the length is 5 cm longer on both sides than the dimensions of the firebox. A brick will be installed on this strip in the next row, blocking the door.
• In the remaining rows, smoke circulation is being formed - channels through which hot gases from the firebox will pass, and which, in fact, will heat the rooms.
• In the sixteenth row, you will need to lay two steel corners with a steel thickness of at least 3-4 mm, the dimensions of the corner are 50*50 mm. They will support part of the smoke circulation ducts.
• Next, everything is in order. In the twenty-ninth row, you will need to cut the bricks for installing the valve (view).

Dutch oven with stove

As mentioned above, a “galanka” is a heating stove, so there are not many options with a hob, but you can find them. For example, below there is a diagram of the arrangement of such a stove (the picture is clickable, to enlarge it, right-click on it).

Arrangement of a Dutch woman with a stove (to enlarge the size of the picture, right-click on it)

The stove here is burnerless, so it’s only good to heat up something you’ve brought with you. If you need a Dutch oven for cooking and heating, see the diagram below. In this oven hob and the entrance to the oven are located on the side.

Layout diagram and materials for a Dutch oven with a stove and oven (to enlarge the size of the picture, right-click on it)

Any gallanka is undemanding when it comes to materials, and this one is no exception: you can use solid ceramic (red) brick. For masonry, clay-sand mortar is used. The firebox zone (7-10 rows) can (but not necessarily) be lined with fireclay bricks ША-8, then in this zone (and only in this) a special high-temperature composition (sold in stores) can be used. You will also need a grate, a single-burner hob, two steel corners - steel thickness 3-4 mm, size 50*50 mm, valley - 5 cm larger than the hob on both sides.

The order of this oven is simple, but some explanations are required:

• The first three rows are laid solid. It is still important to maintain the correct geometry. Check the verticality of the walls and corners in each row throughout the entire construction. Use a plumb line and a level (a level alone is not enough, it gives a large error).
• In the 4th row a blower door is installed, in the 6th row it is covered with a brick sawn lengthwise. In the same sixth row, bricks are worked on for installation of a grate.
• In the 7th row the firebox door is installed, up to and including the ninth row it is formed.
• In the tenth row, the firebox door is closed, the bricks are worked on - recesses are cut into them for installing the stove. As with the grate bars, the recess for the slab should be 5 mm larger than the dimensions. This gap will allow the metal to expand, and the brick will not suffer from this expansion. The gap is filled with asbestos cord, which is covered with corrugated paper cardboard on top. When fired, the cardboard will burn out, but the asbestos will remain clean and perform its function: to compensate for the expansion of the metal. Having laid the slab, its edge is closed metal corner. It will protect the bricks from damage.
• In rows 11-14, the formation of a zone above the slab occurs. In the 14th row, the second corner is laid - exactly above the first. The bricks rest on this corner, covering the area above the slab.
• In the 16th row, a cleaning door and bricks are installed that will serve as support oven. It is placed on these bricks.

It’s easier to make both the cabinet and the cleaning door yourself or order them according to the required dimensions. The door is a frame made from a corner, to which a small steel door is attached. To prevent the door from overheating, you can lay a piece of brick on the back of it on the mortar.

• In the 18th row the cleaning door is closed.
• In 21, you can install metal strips on which the ceiling of the chamber above the oven will rest.
• In the 23rd row, a valve is installed on the smoke channel (the bricks are sawed under it).
• The 24th row is larger in size than all the others - the bricks extend 3 cm around the perimeter, the 25th row already has normal dimensions.
• In the twenty-sixth row, the formation of the chimney begins.

Dutch heating stove (three-turn)

For laying this Dutch heating stove use red ceramic solid brick. The firebox area is lined with chamotte (ША-8) - it is indicated by double shading in the diagram. The masonry is carried out using clay mortar.

Drawing of a Dutch oven. This is only a three-turn heating stove. It is tall and narrow - takes up little space

The dimensions of this stove are two by three bricks, if converted into centimeters - 77 * 51 cm, height 230 cm. If necessary, the height can be changed by reducing or increasing the number of rows forming the smoke circulation channels.

In the first half of the diagram for laying the stove (order) everything is clear. Please note that the masonry from rows 4 to 11-1 and part of the 12th is done with fireclay. When laying these rows, it is possible (but not necessary) to use a special firebox solution. All other rows are laid on clay with sand. Using heat-resistant mortar in other rows will cause it to spill out - it needs high temperatures to sinter.

Perhaps some clarification is needed regarding the tenth and fifteenth rows. In this place, the firebox narrows, so the bricks from below are sawed at an angle of 45° (in the diagram they are shaded in length). In the 15th row, a steel strip 5 mm thick and 50 mm wide, length 32-33 cm, is placed under the new smoke circulation channel.

In this part of the order, it is worth paying attention to rows 31, 32, 33. In them, the dimensions are increased - in row 31, the bricks protrude 3 cm above the previous row. In 32 there is the same increase (by 3 cm), in 33 there is a decrease of 3 cm on each side. The next three rows of the row are very small in size; in the 34th row a cleaning door is installed, in the 36th it is closed. Next comes the formation of an extension to pass through the ceiling.

Round Dutch oven in a metal casing

This version of the Dutch oven was invented at the beginning of the 20th century in Russia, by a heating engineer of German origin named Utenmark. The design is so original that it became known as “utenmarkovka”. Often it consists of a metal case, inside which bricks are placed in one row. The stove is inexpensive, but ineffective. And at one time it was widely used in those places where they could not allocate a lot of money for heating installations: in hospitals, shelters, etc.

Despite its apparent simplicity, installing this stove is much more difficult: it requires high qualifications. Because put round Dutch woman in a metal casing we do not recommend it as a first experiment. However, below we publish a diagram of the laying of this Dutch woman and its order.

The order of the Dutch Utenmark (to enlarge the size of the picture, right-click on it)

In Russia, the Dutch oven appeared during the reign of Peter I, when there was a ban on heating structures without installed chimney. A Dutch oven is a device made of brick with internal pipes for long-term circulation of gases, which increases heat transfer.

You can build a square or round oven. If a hob is installed, then such stoves are called Swedish. The design harmonizes with any room design. Therefore her more often they build houses and dachas. If necessary, the surface can be finished or painted. In Holland, such stoves are finished with tiles, thanks to which the device has excellent aesthetic characteristics.

Any beginner can make a Dutch oven with their own hands. You don't need any special knowledge to do this. The main thing is a responsible approach to doing work. If necessary, you can watch a special video that demonstrates step-by-step instruction construction.

Design Features

• High degree of fire safety.
• Maximum heating area is 40m2.
• Lack of blower.
• Volume rectangular firebox.
• Uniform heating of the walls of the device, thanks to the smoke circulation.
• Lack of grates.

The main task of the furnace is space heating. But if necessary, then it is necessary to cover the surface with non-flammable material. In addition, you can install water system heating. Competent drawings where indicated required dimensions, allow consistently produce such a design.

Types of stove

Since the development of the Dutch oven, a large number of number of modifications. It is constantly being improved and make certain changes. Therefore, almost all heating structures began to be called Dutch. It should be noted that the name of this stove was invented in Russia.

Russian Dutch girls

Many craftsmen began to change the appearance of the usual ones and began to call them Dutch designs, but from the technical side they have nothing in common. Such stoves began to be built after Peter I indicated that all heating structures must be built based Dutch devices. Domestic masters thought of combining both options and developing a completely new device. Then new option returned back to Europe and became widely used among the population.

Swedish ovens

Unlike the Dutch version, the Swedes are equipped cooking chamber and stove. Therefore, they can be used not only for heating the room, but also for cooking. If necessary, an oven, heat generator or water heating box can be installed in such a structure. Post it exactly all the rows of the Swedes will help order.

Read also: Brick kilns for a small dacha

Round Dutch woman

This option is also was developed in Russia, although he is of German origin. The design of the device is quite simple: smoke circulation and three channels. The stove operates by smoldering wood fuel. It is built on an iron casing, which reduces its cost. Wherein heating design has good heat dissipation. However a large number of heat escapes through the pipe. Despite the low cost, the device is fire hazardous, soot appears on the casing, requires regular care, which is not so easy.

Small dacha

This design option is a small stove that is designed for heating small area, up to 20m2. Coal or wood is used as fuel. The prepared diagram and order will make it possible to produce a structure of appropriate dimensions. Small dimensions are achieved by rolling the smoke circulation pipes into a small ring. Design dimensions are 520X520 millimeters.

Foundation installation

Any brickwork implies creation. For the base, you can use a level slab so that you can follow the laying of the brick rows. The foundation is built into the floor. Between the base and the foundation of the house there should be be a layer of sand.

1. To begin, prepare a diagram future design.
2. After they are measurements taken, it is necessary to raise the floor covering.
3. Prepare cement mortar.
4. Installed in the recess flat slab, after which it is filled cement mortar. Then you need to lay the reinforced mesh. Pour another layer of cement on top and level everything thoroughly.
5. To seal the structure, it is recommended from above sprinkle with dry cement.

Mortar for brickwork

To lay the stove it is necessary to prepare. It is not recommended to mix plain cement, as under the influence high temperature it loses some of its characteristics. To prepare the solution you need to mix clay with water in a ratio of 4:1. It is important to note that the clay must be soaked for several hours. Then drain off the excess water.

Read also: Review of heat-resistant oven tiles

After the clay solution will swell, you should add fine-grained sand in the same amount. Then add a small amount of water and mix thoroughly to achieve the desired consistency. You can check this with a shovel, if it leaves lumps, then the solution is ready, if the mass drains, then you need to add a little clay.

Brickwork

To prevent the heating structure from absorbing large amounts of moisture, before laying it is necessary wet every brick. To do this, you need to lower it into water for a couple of seconds. If you keep it in liquid for a long time, there will be a bad grip and the seams will be too thick. In addition, streaks will appear on the stove, and it will have a dirty color.

1. It is assumed that the foundation has already been prepared. To prevent moisture from entering, you need to fold the roofing material in two layers and lay it on the foundation.
2. A layer of sand is poured on top, the thickness of which should be be no more than 50 millimeters. To do this, it is recommended to use a building level.
3. After this, you can lay out the first row of bricks without using the prepared mixture. Total should be eleven rows. The order will allow you to make the layout correctly. The solution must be applied in a small layer to the first row.
4. For laying the next two rows, prepared mortar and red brick are used.
5. Then the brick must be laid edgewise. The seam should not exceed 5 millimeters. In the remaining rows, the thickness should not be more than 8 millimeters; ordering will help to check. Excess mixture can be removed with a regular trowel.
6. To make the Dutch oven easy to clean, the back wall must be collapsible. Therefore there is no need to use a solution. Another way is to install a small door, but in this case, heat loss will increase.
7. The door is secured with steel wire. It also needs to be finished with fireproof material. For this purpose asbestos may be suitable.
8. Until the door is completely covered, you need to continue lay bricks edgewise. From about the eighth row, the brick is laid flat again; the order and building level will help you avoid mistakes in size.
9. Subsequent rows are laid out flat, only the brick is also laid edgewise at the back.
10. Eighth row completely covers the firebox. This level needs to be laid out askew, order will help with this.
11. The ninth row needs to be moved back a little, and asbestos for the hob should be laid on top.
12. At the next level it is prepared chimney base.
13. On the last row you need to make a flap and exit.
14. Dutch oven finished with tiles, it is also possible.
15. The gap between the floor surface and the structure is closed with skirting boards.

Dutch oven (Dutch) for heating a house, cottage, cottage.

Heating country house using a Dutch oven.
When planning to purchase or build their own country house, almost everyone begins to think about how to heat future home V winter period. If a stove will be used to heat a private house, then for its construction, of course, you should resort to the help of a highly qualified expert - a stove builder. Build a stove on our own, it will be quite difficult.

Dutch heating method

Video - Dutch oven

Orders

Oven dimensions:
Length - 90 cm
Width - 70 cm
Height - 225 cm

Photos of Dutch ovens

Materials

To lay such a stove you need:
Ceramic brick M200 - 600 pcs
Red clay - 100 kg
Fireproof brick - 80 pcs
Fireproof clay - 10 kg
Sand - 225 kg
Fire door (25x21) - 1 piece
Blower door (25x14) - 1 piece
Cleaning door (14x14) - 4 pcs.
Grate box (20x25) - 1 piece
Damper (14x25) - 2 pcs.

Note

In accordance with SNiP 1991, stoves in log buildings are permissible only when the number of storeys of the building does not exceed two floors. Taking this into account, the temperature of the walls of the Dutch oven should be no more than 60 degrees.

These units are designed to heat, as a rule, one or two rooms. Their sizes vary depending on the heated area. For example, for a room with an area of ​​20 m2, a stove with dimensions of 750 x 750 x 2000 mm is quite sufficient, provided that the house is well insulated. Such a stove, stacked in the corner of the room, takes up very little space, and the lined ceramic tiles, and even with a glass fire door, can become a real interior decoration. For two rooms, the heated surface of the oven is doubled. Such a stove is placed on the border of adjacent rooms, and in this case it makes sense to think about making it a heating and cooking stove. These are the so-called “Swedish women”. Being multifunctional, they are ideal for summer residents who like to make preparations, dry mushrooms and berries, etc. Some ovens have two operating modes: summer and winter. Summer mode allows you to use the hob without heating the entire oven. This often comes in handy during long power outages. And now we move on to the fun part. These are universal combined stoves and fireplaces heating devices, combining the practicality of stoves and the aesthetics of fireplaces. The inclusion of a fireplace in the stove design is almost always associated with the need to develop a project. Increased cross-section of the chimney pipe stove-fireplace allows you to connect additional heating devices to it on the top floor of the house ( metal stoves and factory-made fireplaces).

How to build a Russian stove with your own hands