Collapse

A Dutch brick stove is one of the most efficient solid fuel devices, used for heating by many people in our time. This is a compact device of rectangular or oval shape with high heat transfer, which is explained by the presence of fairly long smoke channels. Flue gases generated during the combustion of wood or coal circulate through them, heating the thin walls of the furnace and preventing them from cooling for a long time.

Materials and their quantity

To build a Dutch oven without a stove yourself, you will need the following materials and oven casting:

No.	Name of material and stove fittings	Unit change	Quantity
1	Ordinary ceramic brick M150 - M250	Thousand PC.	0,65
2	Fireclay brick	Thousand PC.	0,05
3	Oily clay	kg	90
4	Coarse river sand	m³	0,5
5	Grate 250x250 mm	PC.	1
6	Cleaning door 130x70 mm	PC.	3
7	Fire door 250x280 mm	PC.	1
8	Blower door 250x140 mm	PC.	1
9	Gate valve 130x130 mm	PC.	1
10	Gate valve 130x250 mm	PC.	1
11	Asbestos cord	m	10
12	Tempered steel wire	m	10
13	Steel strip 50x5 mm	m	3,5
14	Heat-resistant adhesive for strengthening masonry joints	kg	20

To build a foundation you need to buy:

• Portland cement - 1 bag (50 kg);
• sand - 0.01 m³;
• crushed stone - 0.5 m³;
• reinforcing mesh with cell size - 0.84 m²;
• roofing felt - 0.84 m²;
• bitumen mastic - 8 kg;
• board for formwork assembly - 152 m³;
• nails - 0.2 kg;
• knitting wire - 15 - 20 m.

Required Tools

To lay a Dutch oven with your own hands, prepare a set of tools in advance, consisting of:

• trowel for stone work (trowel);
• tape measure, level and bubble level;
• rules;
• shovels;
• 2 containers for mixing mortar and concrete;
• wire cutter;
• hammer - pickaxe;
• tampers;
• jointing;
• mason's square;
• grinders with a disc for stone.

Stages of work

The layout of a Dutch oven is quite simple; the materials used do not have any special quality requirements. You can use ordinary solid ceramic bricks and medium-fat clay-sand mortar with the consistency of thick sour cream. Masonry work can be performed by any novice craftsman who knows how to lay a straight wall with bandaged seams.

Preparatory work

Before you build a Dutch oven with your own hands, make markings for the support of the future heating device. This should be a separate structure, not connected to the foundation of the house. And it is advisable to construct it at the stage of construction of the main building. Otherwise, under the Dutch oven you will have to lift flooring and cut a hole in the plank floor, retreating 10 - 15 cm from all sides of the contour of the stove base.

The material should be stored closer to the place where the furnace is laid so as not to interrupt the work process. All concrete and masonry mortar fillers must be sifted and cleaned of foreign matter. Sand and crushed stone, if necessary, are sown dry, but clay must be soaked in advance for several hours and then rubbed through a metal sieve. You should also have laying diagrams for the rows of a Dutch oven for the house and its chimney at hand.

Execution of the foundation

The Dutch oven weighs less than other models of brick stoves, but still needs high-quality and reliable support. A good option the foundation for it will be monolithic reinforced concrete structure in the form of a slab.

The algorithm of actions for arranging the foundation for a Dutch oven is as follows:

• marking the boundaries of the future support;
• excerpt of a pit 60 cm deep;
• compaction of the pit bottom;
• pouring a 15 cm thick crushed stone cushion along the bottom of the pit with layer-by-layer compaction;
• installation of formwork 20 cm high;
• attaching polyethylene film to the formwork walls for waterproofing;
• installation of one row of reinforcing mesh over the entire area of ​​the monolithic slab at a height of 6 - 7 cm from the surface of the crushed stone base. You can raise the mesh using wooden supports or metal pins by driving them into the ground;
• installation of vertical elements made of reinforcement in the corners of the cells of the reinforcing mesh with fastening at the joints with knitting wire;
• pouring concrete into prepared formwork;
• leveling the upper plane of the base;
• ironing the freshly laid mortar with a layer of dry cement 2 - 3 mm thick.
• dismantling of formwork 7 days after the initial hardening of the material.

Before you assemble the main elements of a Dutch oven with your own hands, the concrete must gain full strength within 25 - 30 days.

Expert opinion

Pavel Kruglov

Stove maker with 25 years of experience

To prevent the concrete from absorbing moisture from the soil, the walls of the monolithic slab must be coated with heated bitumen mastic 2 times. On top of the structure, stick 2 layers of roofing material, waterproofing agent or other material with water-repellent properties on the bitumen.

Stove base

Mortar and brick

To increase the adhesion of the brick to the mortar, and also to prevent the brick from excessively absorbing moisture from the masonry mixture, it must be completely wetted before laying, immersing it completely in water for a few seconds.

When preparing clay-sand mortar for laying a furnace, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions of the components. Otherwise, the mixture will not be sufficiently plastic, and the masonry joint will not be able to withstand prolonged exposure to condensation, and will quickly crack and collapse.

The main binder component in the solution is natural material- clay with low sand content (oily). She's not afraid high temperatures, when dried, forms a strong, uniform layer that perfectly adheres brick surfaces to each other. Only, unlike Portland cement, it needs to be prepared in advance by soaking in water for at least 24 hours, and this kind of mixture dries for 6 - 7 days or more, depending on external conditions.

Proportions of mortar for masonry brick oven Dutch women for a summer residence look like this:

• for the combustion chamber, where the temperature is highest, the ratio in the mixture of clay and sand should be 1:1;
• for the construction of the device body and chimney - 1 portion of clay to 2 parts of sand.

Checking the quality of the solution

Masonry and order description

The presented arrangement of a Dutch oven without a stove involves the construction of a medium-sized structure that can heat a private house small area.

Dutch order

Description of the arrangement of a Dutch oven without a stove:

Row No.	Description
1	The brick is laid flat dry and the bed level is checked. Then the row is poured on top with a clay-sand mixture.
2	The formation of the ash pit and vertical gas ducts began, and the installation of a cleaning door.
3; 4	Installation of the blower door. To hold the door frame more firmly, use wire, recessing it in the seams. Thermal insulation of stove cast iron is performed with a basalt seal or asbestos cord.
5	Installation of transverse pieces made of angle steel that will hold the ash vault.
6	Covering the ash pit, installing a grate.
7 — 11	Forming the firebox, lining it with fireclay bricks, installing the firebox door in the same way as the ash door.
12 — 14	Covering the combustion chamber, expanding the furnace body.
15 — 16	Installing another door for cleaning the channels of the device. Arrangement of a bypass for the exit of heated gas from the channel in the central part into the channel located closer to the rear wall of the furnace.
17 — 18	Dividing the gas duct in the central part into two channels. Covering the heat exchanger from the rear side.
19 — 25	Further formation of the heat exchanger.
26 — 29	Overlapping device. Starting from the 27th row, the internal space of the unit is narrowed so that its connection to the chimney is more organic.
30	Installation of a metal valve

Appearance of the future furnace

There are several other ordering options:

Chimney requirements

The chimney begins to be placed on top of the stove, having previously installed the cap pipe. The masonry technology is the same as when constructing the walls of the building, but there are some features:

• To build a chimney, you must use only whole bricks. Laying quarters and halves will lead to an increase in seams, which will reduce the level of reliability and safety of the structure as a whole;
• For lining, use fireclay bricks, laying them on edge;
• the height of the pipe depends on the configuration of the roof, but to ensure good draft in the furnace it must be at least 3 m;
• the distance between the wall of the house and the smoke exhaust duct must be at least 40 cm, and in the area of ​​passage through the ceiling and roof covering the structure must have widening and be thermally insulated with an asbestos or lead apron;
• The masonry of the chimney must be carried out strictly in accordance with the order, the joints between the bricks must be carefully sealed to ensure the maximum possible draft and heat transfer, and also to avoid the penetration of caustic combustion products into the room.

After laying

Drying

Drying a brick heating device is one of the mandatory measures that is carried out before the active operation of the device begins. Dry the oven in two stages:

• V natural conditions. The period for this type of oven drying after completion of masonry work is approximately 6 - 8 days. At this time, all doors and latches must be open to ensure natural circulation air flow, which, passing through the channels of the device, removes wet vapors through the chimney to the street. This ensures only drying of the surface of the masonry layers;
• forced drying. It is carried out using dry small firewood every day for a week during the warm season. In the autumn-winter season, the time for forced drying should be extended by 1 - 2 weeks.

The end of drying can be signaled by the absence of condensation products on the doors and valves of a closed device.

Finishing and cladding

Device finishing Dutch ovens can be made different ways: cover with a layer decorative plaster and whitewash, line with tiles, tiles or flat stones.

When all parts of the stove and the chimney are completely dry, you need to test fire the stove.

Basic moments:

• It is better to carry out short-term ignition in the late evening, when the temperature outside is lower than inside the room. The fuel load during the first fire should be minimal. If the ignition was successful, you need to add some damp wood, which smokes more.
• If the chimney is of sufficient height and well insulated, then smoke will not penetrate into the room. If the opposite situation occurs, then you need to check the channels for inaccurate installation and damage.
• The last stage of the first firebox is the maximum heating of the unit for several hours. During this period, check whether cracks have appeared in the seams on the front surface of the device.

Conclusion

Making a Dutch oven out of brick with your own hands is not at all difficult. It warms up quickly and cools down for a long time, easily fits into any interior design and can become business card suburban real estate.

←Previous article Next article →

Stove heating, despite its archaic nature, remains the main type of home heating in rural areas today. Much attention is paid to the reliability of the design and the efficiency of the unit, since restoration and Maintenance are associated with large financial costs. The Dutch oven, which has long been used in Rus', is a time-tested solution to the problem of heating efficiency, decent interior design of the house and reliable operation for a long time.

What is a Dutch oven and where is it used?

In Russian, the name for this type of stove appeared during the reign of Peter I, when the Tsar ordered all boyars to build them according to the Dutch model, “so that the eye could be pleased with European beauty.” The classic version in the Netherlands is a purely heating structure with cookers and ovens.

The Dutch oven covered with painted tiles fits perfectly into the interior country house

Advantages and disadvantages of a Dutch oven

Its main functional advantages are as follows:

1. Compact dimensions. A small Dutch oven has a minimum square size with a side length of 52 cm.
2. Relatively simple installation that even a novice mason can do.
3. The consumption of materials in comparison with a Russian stove of similar size is half as much. The construction of a small Dutch oven requires 700 bricks, and it will heat the room in the same way as a large Russian stove.
4. Light weight. The unit can be installed without additional supports in two- and three-story buildings. Standard interfloor ceilings, designed for a load of 300 kg/m2, can easily withstand the weight of the stove.
5. Even significant changes in the design do not have a noticeable effect on the operation of the furnace. The strength of the housing and efficiency are not reduced. The main condition is to avoid gross mistakes in masonry and finishing.
6. Thanks to the smooth temperature change in the chimney and the simple gas movement pattern, it is easy to install additional devices in the oven - a bread maker, a water heater, etc.
7. The ability to use any materials in construction, even hollow bricks. High-quality fire-resistant material is only needed for laying out the combustion chamber.
8. The above-furnace part is increased easily and without compromising heat transfer. The chimney body can be extended 2, 3, 4 floors up.
9. The thin-walled heat exchanger of the furnace heats up quickly and cools down slowly.
10. Good heat dissipation. Where a Russian stove will heat 40 m2, a Dutch stove of similar dimensions will heat 60 m2.
11. After long periods of downtime, no pre-kindling is required.

During the construction of a Dutch oven, the consumption of materials is approximately two times less, in comparison with a Russian stove of similar size

There are also disadvantages:

1. The efficiency does not exceed 40%. For comparison, the Russian furnace efficiency about 60%, and for improved models - up to 80%.
2. You cannot use certain types of fuel - straw, brushwood, reeds and other instantly burning materials. A fast oxidation reaction with a large release of energy will not bring heat into the house. The most suitable types of fuel are coal and wood, which can burn in smoldering mode.
3. To ensure constant heat in the room, it is necessary to heat at least twice a day.
4. A layer of soot and carbon deposits quickly forms on the walls of the chimney channels, which ignite from time to time. This could lead to a fire throughout the house. If, for example, the firebox door is poorly closed and the soot catches fire, the blast wave throws a long tongue of flame through the firebox.
5. If, after burning the fuel, you do not close the stove damper in time, all the heat will instantly evaporate.
6. The unit does not tolerate overheating. Exceeding the temperature leads to the rapid appearance of microcracks on the body. This is followed by the leakage of carbon monoxide into the living space.

The disadvantages are more than covered by the advantages of the Dutch woman. Thanks to this, the stove is very popular among the population. Analyzing its functional qualities, we can come to the following practical conclusions:

• it is optimal for small houses, separate rooms, garages, cottages and even bathhouses;
• indispensable for floor heating in a building when it is impossible to use a massive Russian stove;
• the design allows the chimney to be exhausted both through the roof and through the side wall, which makes the stove unique in terms of economy.

The optimal oven operating temperature is 60–65 °C in the middle of the body. It was noticed that the human palm can withstand this temperature, but for the back of the hand such heating is already unbearable. Therefore, the correctness of the firebox can be controlled with your hand.

Types of ovens

The following characteristics can be used for classification:

• shape and size;
• functions and purpose;
• types of decorative finishing.

Initially the shape was rectangular. Today you can find square, round and even triangular ovens. Some models are equipped with a traditional Russian heated bed.

A Dutch oven can also have a stove bench in the “Russian spirit”

The name “Dutch” has become more of a common noun than a proper one. For example, behind the stove known as “untermarkovka”, invented in the 19th century by the German I.G. Untermark, the name “round Dutch” was firmly established. The Grum-Grzhimailo bell furnace is called the same, although its operating principle is different.

The 12-pass German Untermark oven is also called a Dutch oven

Depending on their size, Dutch ovens are conventionally divided into large and small, and according to their purpose - into two classes:

• heating;
• heating and cooking.

By exterior decoration The following types are distinguished:

• with metal casing;
• plastered;
• finished with tiles, tiles or other material;
• covered with tiles.

The Grum-Grzhimailo bell-type stove has a round shape and is often covered with tiles

Design and principle of operation

The Dutch has the following design features:

The basis of the stove's operation is the movement of hot gases through the vertical channels of the chimney

Calculation of the main parameters of the Dutch woman

For any furnace you need to determine the power (heat output) and size cross section chimney pipe. To calculate power, you need to know the specific calorific value of the fuel. The required numbers can be found in the tables, which are compiled based on experimental testing of various types of fuel.

Power determination

If during intense combustion one load of firewood is consumed in an hour, you can calculate the power of the stove using the formula: W = V t x E beat x 0.8 x 0.4 x 0.63, where W is the power expressed in kW, V t is the working volume of the fuel chamber in m 3, coefficient 0.8 shows the amount of fuel burned, coefficient 0.4 is an indicator of the efficiency of the stove and coefficient 0.63 is the level of loading of the furnace with combustible material.

For example, you can calculate the heat transfer power for a stove with a firebox size of 0.4x0.3x0.4 m. The fuel is birch firewood with a humidity of 25%. We substitute our data into the formula and get: W = 04x0.3x0.4x2352x0.8x0.4x0.63 = 22.76 kW.

After determining the power indicator, the size of the cross-sectional area of ​​the pipe is selected.

Table: specific calorific value of some types of wood in kWh/m 3

Type of wood fuel	Humidity 12%	Humidity 25%	Humidity 50%
Poplar	1856	1448	636
Fir	1902	1484	652
Spruce	2088	1629	715
Birch	3016	2352	1033
Oak	3758	2932	1287
Aspen	2181	1701	747

Table: ratio of power and chimney size

Heat transfer power, kW	Linear dimensions of a rectangular chimney, mm
Less than 3.5	140x140
3,5 – 5,2	140x200
5,2 – 7,2	140x270
7,2 – 10,5	200x200
10,5 – 14	200x270
More than 14	270x270

Determination of the area of ​​a circular pipe

If a metal pipe of round cross-section is used, its area is calculated by the formula: S=pR 2, where S is the required area, p is a coefficient equal to 3.14, and R is the radius of the pipe circumference. With slow oxidation of fuel (in smoldering mode), heat transfer is reduced to 10–30% of the level of the flame phase of combustion. However, the chimney still needs to be calculated at a higher power using the data obtained from the above formula.

Materials and tools for building a Dutch oven

To work you will need:

• mason's trowel, trowel, hammer-pick, jointer, knife;

  Basic mason tools - trowel, hammer-pick, jointer

• measuring instruments - tape measure, level, plumb lines, a roll of construction cord;

  You will need a tape measure to measure the dimensions of the oven.

• containers for mixing solutions, shovel;
• electric drill with a mixing attachment (mixer);

  Power tools for mixing masonry mortar will be useful when building a furnace

• a grinder with a diamond blade that can be used to cut bricks;
• ordering - an even wooden strip, marked along brick rows (it is installed strictly vertically and placed along the notches; the tool is easy to make yourself);
• construction stapler.

List of materials for the Dutch oven:

• solid red bricks;

  Solid red brick is used for laying a stove

• fireproof bricks, fireclay;

  Refractory brick grade ШБ-5 is required for laying the combustion chamber

• a set of stove castings - firebox and ash door doors, chimney valves, views, grate (if a cooking compartment is planned in the stove, a cast iron stove will be required);

  When constructing a Dutch stove, they use cast iron for the stove - a grate, chimney valves, views

• materials for the solution - clay, sand and water (you can buy a ready-made mixture);

  Dry clay mixture is needed for laying a stove

• several meters of tempered steel wire (0.4–0.8 mm in diameter);
• asbestos sealant in the form of a cord or gasket;

  A sealant for metal parts in the form of an asbestos cord is used in the construction of a Dutch house.

• outdoor umbrella made of sheet metal(for a brick chimney);

  The umbrella is installed on the top of the stove and serves to protect the masonry from moisture

• metal reinforcing mesh and several sheets of roofing material or other waterproofing material (for foundation construction);

  The cell size and reinforcement thickness are selected in accordance with the dimensions of the foundation

• boards for formwork.

Preparatory work before assembling the stove

Before installing the stove, the foundation is poured and holes are made in the interfloor and attic floors.

Pouring the foundation

If the installation of the stove is planned during the construction stage of the house, then the foundation is poured at its location. According to the rules, it is not connected to the general foundation of the house, but is laid separately. This prevents unwanted distortions that may occur during shrinkage. The construction of the building is carried out simultaneously with the laying of the stove; when positioning the load-bearing floor beams, the height of the stove body and chimney is taken into account.

For furnace equipment, a foundation is poured that is not connected to the main foundation of the house

If the decision to install a heating unit arose in finished house, carefully weigh and evaluate the work that will have to be done. The most significant ones include preparing the foundation and laying a chimney through the attic or interfloor ceilings. Sometimes it is more expedient to lead the pipe through the wall: the Dutch woman has such an opportunity.

The foundation is prepared in advance. The cement mortar must dry and shrink for at least 30 days. Only after this does the installation of the furnace begin. Otherwise, deformations are possible during operation, which leads to cracking of the thin walls of the stove and a violation of the tightness of the chimney. To avoid such consequences, the foundation is poured in accordance with the rules:

Several layers of basalt cardboard are laid between the base of the furnace and the waterproofing, which serves as a heat insulator and prevents the heat of the furnace from escaping into the foundation.

Basalt cardboard is an inexpensive but effective material for thermal insulation

Preparing holes in the floors between floors and the attic

The holes are cut taking into account fireproof cuts and fluffs, which must be built in the chimney in contact with flammable materials. This is especially true in wooden houses. The location of the pipe must be calculated so that it does not intersect with load-bearing beams and other structural elements of the house. The hole in the roof is made last, when the main part of the masonry is completed.

The hole for the chimney is prepared in advance so that plumb lines can be hung

The procedure for venting the chimney outside can be as follows:

1. Remove the roof where the pipe exits. If the roof is covered with a continuous layer of material that cannot be separated (for example, corrugated sheeting, slate, etc.), use measurements to determine the location of the exit and the size of the hole, and then cut it out with a grinder or jigsaw.
2. Install jumpers to restore the rigidity of the damaged area. Usually these are additional cross rafters made of wooden blocks.
3. Lay and secure a heat-insulating layer between the chimney and the roof. Typically, it consists of asbestos sheet or mineral panels.

Make the hole taking into account the fact that at the outlet of the pipe there must be an “otter” laid out - a horizontal displacement of the masonry that protects the attic space from water penetration.

The otter is located directly at the pipe exit from the roof

After this, you can remove the brickwork above the roof.

Norms are against fire safety for chimneys, it is important to observe when building a Dutch oven

One of the options for making a stove yourself

For a heating and cooking stove, as very practical option for a dacha or country house, the order looks like this:

Dutch heating and cooking type - optimal design for a country house

Since a certain precision is required when laying, craftsmen wet each brick in water. Thanks to this, moisture is not sucked out of the solution. Usually all the bricks for one or two rows are dipped into a trough with liquid at once. And as they are used, new ones are added.

To gain the skill of masonry work, you can initially lay several rows without mortar. If everything works out, you can move on to the real masonry.

Particular attention should be paid to the waterproofing between the foundation and the Dutch body. It is made from roofing felt in two layers in front of the first row. Some advise laying the first row of insulating bricks, since with this type of stove most of the heat can go down.

The insulator is roofing felt, roofing felt or other synthetic materials.

Operating procedure:

1. The first row is laid out as a continuous surface. The dressing must be properly observed, as indicated in the diagram.
2. The second and third rows are also solid, but the order of the bricks in them is different. The result is a monolithic stove base, over which the load is evenly distributed.

   In the first rows it is necessary to observe the correct layout of bricks

3. An ash pan door is installed in the fourth row. During installation, it is recommended to use an asbestos cord, which is wound on the end side of the frame with a thickness of 4–5 mm. There are several ways to secure the door, but the best option is using special claws.

   Installation of the blower door is carried out on the fourth row of masonry

4. The fifth row is the same as the fourth. The masonry is laid from the right corner with a half-brick bandage.

   Completing the ash pit laying

5. On the sixth row, the ash chamber is covered using a steel strip.
6. The seventh row is the beginning of the firebox, which must be lined with fireclay bricks. This is where the firebox door is installed.

   The combustion chamber door is installed on the seventh row of masonry

7. Install grates with clearance for thermal expansion 4–5 mm.
8. The eighth row is used to cover the ash pit, and at rows 9–14 a fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks.
9. In the tenth row, the combustion chamber is blocked and specially made bricks are installed for installing the hob. Holes on the metal plate are cut with a grinder.

   On the tenth row, the masonry covers the combustion chamber

10. Up to 13 rows form the space above the tiles. The bricks are laid out strictly according to the scheme.
11. In the 14th row, bricks with grooves are installed into which they are inserted metal corner, supporting the weight of the next levels.
12. The fifteenth row covers the recess above the stove, and in rows 16 and 17 there is a door for cleaning the chimney. Installation is similar to all previous cast iron elements.

    The chimney cleaning door is installed on row 15

13. From the 18th to the 22nd row a chimney channel is made.
14. In row 23, a stove valve is installed on the chimney duct. To do this, the bricks are adjusted so that there is space between the masonry and the metal for the asbestos gasket.

    Installation of the chimney damper is carried out on row 23

15. In rows 24 and 25, the descending and ascending channels are connected, and in rows 26–28 a chimney is formed. As the masonry progresses, the inner surface of the channels is lined. This will improve the passage of gases and create normally functioning traction.

    The formation of chimney channels is performed on rows 24 and 25

16. In rows 29 and 30, a valve is installed that regulates the overall draft in the chimney.
17. Close the valve and form the chimney outlet.

    A heating and cooking Dutch oven of rectangular design is easy to build yourself

If the house has a wooden floor, for fire safety purposes it is necessary to install a pre-furnace apron. It is made from sheet iron, thickness from 0.5 mm. The size is selected so that the wood is protected from sparks and coals that may fly out of the firebox. An asbestos gasket is additionally laid under the metal.

Asbestos gasket provides additional protection for the floor from fire

After completing the masonry, it is necessary to dry the stove thoroughly. This may take from a week to two weeks, depending temperature conditions. During this time, you need to leave all latches and doors open. You can put a switched-on electric lamp in the firebox to speed up the process.

Video: DIY Dutch oven

Stove decor

Brickwork made from high-quality bricks can look impressive in itself. But Dutch women often decorate - they cover them with tiles, tiles and other finishing materials. IN in capable hands an ordinary stove turns into a work of art. For finishing use:

• majolica;

  Skillfully folded clinker brick is an excellent facing material

  When choosing a coating for a stove, pay attention not only to the price, but also to specifications, especially environmental suitability. We must not forget that operation will take place in conditions of elevated temperature.

  Features of operation

  A characteristic feature of Dutch ovens is the increased length of the chimney channels. This is precisely why the stove works so well at heat transfer. But at the same time, with such a flue arrangement, the likelihood of carbon monoxide entering the living space increases. To prevent this from happening, it is important to observe the correct combustion mode: the heating temperature of the housing should not exceed 60 o Celsius.

  Oven cleaning and repair

  In order for the Dutch machine to work without surprises, it is necessary to monitor its technical condition:

  • clean the firebox and ash pit from ash every day;
  • do once a year preventive cleaning chimney;
  • Once every 4–5 years, inspect the internal and external walls, and if cracks are detected, repair them.

  Anyone can build a Dutch oven on their own without outside help. By following the described recommendations and following the ordering diagrams, the heating unit can be easily assembled in 1 week.

When the conversation turns to such a heating device as a Dutch oven, what comes to mind is a tall and narrow structure that stands in the corner of the room. All stove makers in the world consider it a well-deserved device, which still heats a huge number of houses using different kinds fuel. Although at the very beginning of its appearance it was a stove running on solid fuels. Of the huge number of advantages of this unit, one can single out one that influenced its modern popularity - this is the ability to assemble a Dutch oven with your own hands. And this can be done by a person who has basic knowledge in stove construction.

But let's return to our stove and talk a little about its history. It appeared in the Netherlands, hence the name itself, somewhere in the middle of the 15th century. Although there is no exact date, it is safe to say that this design Literally in three centuries it has taken over Europe and America. Why? Because she has a large number of positive qualities.

But before voicing the advantages of the device, I would like to understand its design.

Dutch oven design

Why does this heating unit produce so efficiently? thermal energy? It's all about an artificially elongated channel through which flue gases move. So that you understand what we are talking about, we offer you a photo of a cross-section of a Dutch oven located below.

Scheme of the classic version

In fact, it turns out that the chimney channel is a repeatedly bending outlet pipe through which flue gases move, giving off heat brick partitions and the walls of the stove itself. In this case, already cooled gases enter the chimney, which do not condense on its internal surfaces. This results in double benefit. But at the same time, some subtleties relating to thermotechnical, thermodynamic and physical-technical processes were not used. Everything is simple, like our mortal world.

But here one nuance arises: all this can be disrupted just as easily if you do not take into account the dimensional parameters of the unit during its construction. There are certain requirements that relate to the size, shape and technology of laying each of the units. But more on that below.

Ceramic tile finishing

The most important thing is that Dutch women were invented by people who lived in small houses, because the Netherlands are practically reclaimed lands from the sea. So it was simply impossible to dance from the stove, as the Russians did. First, a house was built, and then a stove was built to fit it. That's why she was tall, narrow and flexible. What do you mean, plastic? It was simply possible to vary its size, adjusting it to the size of the space allocated for it. By the way, today modern stove makers do the same. True, already using computer programs, driving the oven under required dimensions premises.

Let us add that previously in the Netherlands there was a law that determined the house tax. So, at its base there was a pipe from which smoke came. The more pipes in a house, the more tax was paid. Therefore, the Dutch made such stoves, the chimneys of which were collected into one pipe, leading out of the wall of the house. That is, it turned out enough complex design chimneys. Although this complexity is visible, in practice everything turned out to be quite simple.

And one more addition. The lack of land pushed people to build multi-story buildings. So, in order to avoid paying taxes, the furnace was built to the full height of the building. Wherein concrete slabs There was no ceiling at that time, everything was wooden. Therefore, the stoves were built in blocks. They had a small specific gravity, so the load on the floors was minimal.

Simple model

Advantages and disadvantages

Although we praise the Dutch women, these heating devices have both advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages

• The efficiency of the unit is not affected by design changes. Here it is important to strictly follow the masonry technology. Although there can be a huge number of functional additions. For example, a Dutch oven with a stove bench, with a hob, with an oven, and so on.
• By the way, both structural and functional additions do not reduce the efficiency of the stove. So a Dutch oven with a stove is one of the most common options.
• The small dimensions have already been mentioned. But I would like to point out that there is minimum dimensions: 0.5 x 0.5 m.
• Minimum consumption necessary materials. For example, the smallest Russian stove will require 1,300 bricks. And for the largest Dutch woman there are only 650 bricks. But there is another catch here. The Dutch stove heats in the same way as a large Russian stove, which will require 2500 bricks.
• Fewer materials, less load on the floors.
• The height of the unit does not affect its efficiency in any way.
• The small thickness of the stove walls, rational design and shape make it practically insensitive to temperature changes. And accordingly, it is practically not deformed.
• To construct it, you need high-quality brick, which is used to cover only the firebox. The rest of the design does not require high-quality materials. The walls can be erected from hollow bricks or from defective ones (iron ore).
• A gas duct with a simple configuration and a smooth temperature difference make it possible to build an oven or water heating tank into the stove. So the functionality of the device can be further increased.
• Fast heating and slow cooling.
• After a long period of inactivity, the Dutch oven does not need to be heated. It can be fully loaded immediately.
• And one more comparison with a Russian stove - a large Dutch stove can heat a room of up to 65 m². A large Russian stove will heat an area of ​​45 m².

Round Dutch woman

Flaws

• Unfortunately, the Dutchwoman cannot boast of high efficiency. Average value 40%. In this regard, it is clearly inferior to the Russian stove.
• If after lighting you forget to close the view, the stove instantly cools down. The configuration of the channels simply, like a siphon, begins to draw street air inside.
• The optimal kindling mode is smoldering. Therefore, it is not recommended to heat a round Dutch oven with fast-burning fuel. For example, reeds, brushwood, straw and so on.
• It is believed that this stove should be heated at least 2 times a day.
• But it’s better not to reheat it. At the same time, it is released in large quantities carbon monoxide, which immediately enters the premises.

Small stove on metal supports

The lineup

There are quite a lot of variations on the Dutch theme. I would like to note some of them as frequently encountered.

• Classic.
• With a fireplace.
• With a stove.
• In the form of a column.

By the way, here is a photo of a Dutch oven with a stove below.

Dutch woman with stove

Column stoves were close to Soviet citizens because in low-rise construction They were mainly used. By the way, such devices worked on wood, coal, and gas. And they behaved perfectly on any of these types of fuel. True, Soviet engineers approached increasing heat transfer in a unique way. They proposed building a metal casing around the brick walls of the stove, which heated up and gave off more thermal energy.

By the way, round Dutch ovens in a metal casing can still be found today in old Soviet-built houses. And what’s surprising is that they work great.

Stove in a metal casing

This model, which is called Utermark, in honor of its inventor, a German who lived all his life in Russia, I.G. Utermark, has one big plus and one big minus.

• Plus - the stove was laid using a quarter of a brick. The strength was maintained by a metal casing.
• The downside is that this stove did not heat very well. Efficiency is too low.

In essence, this model is a heating unit for the poor. But its design was modified, creating a so-called bell furnace with higher efficiency.

Construction of the Dutchwoman

So, let's move on to the most important process - this is the ordering of the Dutch oven. As mentioned above, a huge variety of shapes and designs allows you to install in your home an option that will fit exactly into the interior of the room, heat it well and take up little space.

But, like any brick oven, the Dutch oven requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is recommended to pour a concrete foundation under it with the installation of a reinforcing frame made of metal reinforcement or mesh. The only thing you need to pay attention to Special attention that the frame should be three-dimensional, that is, not flat, but laid throughout the entire body of the foundation.

When this element general design dries well, its surface must be waterproofed. You can lay roofing felt or roofing felt, you can coat it with bitumen or waterproofing mastic. Now you can prepare the remaining materials, and these are clay mortar and bricks. As mentioned above, the Dutch house is built from ordinary bricks, but the combustion chamber is made from refractory bricks. Clay mortar is a mixture of clay and sand in a 1:1 ratio.

Ordering one of the models

There is a specific design feature of a Dutch stove - it is a firebox, which is located low above the floor surface. Typically this size is 25 cm. This allows the heating unit itself to be heated evenly. Now that everything preparatory work finished, you can proceed directly to laying the Dutch oven with your own hands.

• A layer of sand 5 cm thick, no more, is poured on top of the waterproofing material. It is leveled horizontally and watered on top.
• The first row of bricks is laid on the base without fastening mortar. For a medium-sized stove you will need only 12 bricks.
• 2-3 rows are laid on the solution. Please note that the first three rows are laid flat.
• Rows 4-5 – the internal partition of the chimney is installed. Here, knockout bricks are laid out from the back wall. With their help you can clean the chimney. They are also placed without a solution. Shouldn't we install a door here? In principle, there are no objections, but heat will leave the oven through it, so it’s better to stick to knockout bricks.
• Next, the firebox door is installed. Please note that this row may not necessarily be the sixth row. It's all about the height of the unit itself.
• Row 7 is laid flat. But the back bricks are placed on edge.
• All other rows are laid out flat. The 8th row closes the fire door, so the bricks are laid above it with a bevel in the likeness of a fireplace.
• The 9th row is shifted inward, it is on it that the heat-resistant material is laid out. For example, asbestos cord.
• The hob is installed.
• From the 10th row, a chimney begins to form. I would like to note that for small structures it is best to use metal or other chimneys, but not brick. This will simply make the entire structure heavier.
• In row 11, a valve is installed between the stove and the chimney.
• The chimney pipe is installed.
• A plinth or other protective device is attached between the foundation and the first brick row, which will prevent sand from spilling out.
• You can move on to finishing.
• The first kindling can be done only after two weeks have passed.

Here is the Dutch masonry scheme. Difficult? It all depends on the size of the device. If this small option, then you can handle it with your own hands without any problems. If the unit is large, you will have to tinker, because such a stove will require a large number of building materials, and, therefore, a lot of time for their installation.

Dutch oven with high firebox

Despite the perfection of new technologies that have found their application in modern boiler installations, the heating devices that came to us from the past - stoves. They are good because they do not require water heating systems and everything connected with them, and in terms of construction costs the stoves can compete with modern heating. There are several types of them; diagrams and designs of furnaces have been known since ancient times and are freely available. Small Vacation home A Dutch oven made of bricks can easily heat it.

What is a Dutch oven?

The main purpose of this heat source is still considered to be heating small buildings, such as houses in the Netherlands. In this case, the number of storeys does not matter; the building can freely cover 2 floors. There are known examples of Dutch women built on 3 and even 4 floors. Initially, it was a small furnace without grates and a blower; combustion air entered through the slightly open firebox door. Over time, the residents of the Netherlands themselves improved the design by adding an ash chamber with a grate and a door.

The classic design of a Dutch oven provides for very long passages of flue gases inside the building, due to which it stretches in height, and the dimensions in plan are small. The smallest Dutch oven measures 520 x 520 mm and is suitable for heating a room up to 20 m2. The combustion products, passing through long channels, almost completely give up their heat to the walls and exit through the side opening. It should be noted that the design of the stove is not constant, like that of a Russian stove; it can be changed, following the basic proportions and maintaining the principle of operation.

There are various designs for a Dutch oven, the classic design looks like this:

Note: all oven dimensions in the diagram are indicated in centimeters.

As can be seen in the figure, the principle of operation of a Dutch oven is not to have a raging flame in the firebox, but to intensely smolder. Otherwise, the flue gases will very quickly pass through the passage system and be thrown out without transferring heat to the walls. It is for this reason that it is useless to load small wood and other quickly burning fuels into the firebox. If you heat the stove correctly, it will quickly warm up and then retain heat for a long time. The temperature of the outer surface of the masonry in this case is kept within 60 ºС.

Types of "Dutch women"

In past centuries, from which these stoves came to us, their outer surfaces were lined with tiles, as a result of which a simple structure turned into a real work of art, as in the following image.

The next photo shows a Dutch oven with a fireplace, lined natural stone, due to its compact size, is installed in the corner of the room and fits harmoniously into its interior.

Since the design of the stove allows it to be changed for different needs, a Dutch oven with a stove was also invented, which is shown in the following image.

And finally, the original round Dutch oven, which is difficult to build and has several disadvantages of its own in operation. For this reason, such products are extremely rare and are heated on certain days, for example, holidays.

Design Features

Like any building construction, which has significant weight, the furnace masonry must rest on the foundation or on a solid reinforced concrete slab, located at the base of the floors. It is better to arrange the foundation at floor level, making it 100-150 mm thick from concrete with a reinforcement frame. Dimensions foundation slab the masonry dimensions should be increased by 50-100 mm in each direction.

The positive side of the Dutch house is its undemanding quality of building materials. For high-quality masonry, they usually take well-fired ceramic bricks, preferably solid ones. In practice, such stoves are also made from hollow stones, with cracks, and even used ones. The product does not look very aesthetically pleasing, but at the same time it heats no worse than a stove made of high-quality bricks.

The simplicity of the design and the principle of operation allow a completely inexperienced mason to build a Dutch oven with his own hands; he only needs to be able to lay walls of ordinary complexity with dressing. No matter how unsightly the stove is built, it will still work successfully.

In any case, the firebox must be made of good refractory bricks. A sand-clay solution is used as a binder, mixed to the consistency of sour cream. The ratio is as follows: for one part of clay, take 2 parts of sand, which is better to first pass through a sieve. Quite suitable for brickwork and special building mixtures that are commercially available in bags.

Attention! It is not allowed to use cement when laying stoves, because after hardening cement mortar susceptible to cracking from temperature changes and thermal expansion. You can only use a solution of clay and sand.

The simplest small stove for a summer house can be folded using the diagram below; it shows the arrangement of a Dutch stove with dimensions 520 x 520.

If you need to increase the height of the building, then this should be done through rows 17, 19, 21, as well as 18, 20, 22, repeating these belts the required number of times. This heat source will come in handy in a country house or other small building with an area of ​​up to 20 m2. When the area of ​​the premises is larger, you will have to install a large heating stove; it can heat a room of up to 50 m2. The figure shows a diagram of the laying of a large Dutch oven.

Advantages and disadvantages

The positive features of Dutch ovens are numerous, which makes them very attractive as heaters in country houses:

• Small in size, the structure can be placed in any building.
• There is no need to make complex calculations or consume large amounts of materials. To lay out an ordinary Dutch stove, you will need 650 stones (see diagram), and for a small Russian stove you need 1300 pieces.
• In accordance with the previous point, the weight of the structure will be light and will not require a powerful foundation for support. A small foundation will be enough.
• The simple arrangement of Dutch heating stoves and undemanding requirements for materials make construction cheaper.
• In practice, such stoves warm up quickly and take a long time to cool down.
• The design can be transformed by developing new varieties of Dutch ovens.

Do not forget about the disadvantages, of which there are much fewer:

• low efficiency (less than 50%);
• You cannot leave the damper open in the stove after lighting the wood, otherwise the heat will quickly fly away into the chimney and the Dutch oven will cool down;
• not suitable for burning small wood, reeds, straw and other light fuels.

Conclusion

Dutch stoves are the most accessible to manufacture, since they are very simple and do not require high-quality building materials, like a Russian or Swedish stove. One should not discount the fact that such a stove easily fits into the interior, regardless of its wealth.

Russian stove makers mastered the technology of Dutch oven laying more than two hundred years ago. During this time, the stove has established itself as a reliable, economical and efficient heating unit. At the same time, the Dutch woman has an extremely simple design. After studying the following guide, you can post it yourself.

For Dutch masonry, solid ceramic bricks are used. The furnace design consists of the following main structural elements:

Among key differences Dutch ovens should be distinguished from other popular brick ovens:

• lack of grate;
• the presence of channels for the passage of smoke. They settle in on top of each other. This arrangement allows for consistent circulation of the generated flue gases and maximum efficiency heating;
• the stove can have a round, rectangular or even complex curved shape, but the firebox always remains rectangular;
• there is no vent under the firebox;
• The hob is usually not installed.

The walls of a Dutch house are usually laid out in brick. Thanks to this, the finished structure has a relatively low weight, which simplifies the requirements for the foundation and the foundation as a whole.

The compact dimensions of the stove allow it to fit into almost any interior.

Set for work

Foundation arrangement

Despite the relatively light weight for a brick oven, the Dutch oven still needs a high-quality and reliable foundation. Great option – monolithic slab. An important nuance: the foundation must be reinforced both in area and in volume, i.e. deep down. The dimensions of such a foundation must be at least 1.2 x 1.2 m. The Dutch foundation cannot be connected to the base of the main building.

The procedure for arranging the foundation is as follows.

First step. We outline the boundaries of the foundation being developed.

Second step. We dig a pit about 60 cm deep.

Third step. We fill the bottom of the pit with a 15-centimeter layer of crushed stone. Carefully level and compact the backfill.

Fourth step. We lay a mesh of reinforcing bars. The recommended cell size of such a mesh is 100-120 mm.

Foundation pit with formwork and reinforcement

Fifth step. We install vertical reinforcement at the intersection of the rods. We tie all the joints of the elements of the support system with wire.

Sixth step. We install the formwork for pouring the foundation. We cover each wall of the formwork with roofing felt or treat it with resin for waterproofing.

Seventh step. We pour concrete.

Eighth step. We “iron” the surface of the base. To do this, sprinkle the fill with a small amount of dry cement.

Let the foundation gain strength. It is better to leave it for a month, but many craftsmen begin laying it within a week. At this point the decision is yours.

Before you start laying, you need to prepare a solution and perform a few simple steps to prepare the foundation.

Preparation of the solution

Sift the sand and break up large pieces of clay. The crushed clay also needs to be sifted. The mesh from an armored bed will perfectly cope with the functions of a sieve. If this is not available, use a simple sieve with cells of similar sizes.

Soak the clay in water for several hours. Drain off any excess water not absorbed by the clay.

Important! You need to soak not only the clay, but also the bricks. To do this, just immerse them in water for about a minute. Thanks to this treatment, the bricks will not absorb water from the clay mortar.

Let the clay swell and mix it with sand in equal quantities. Add about 1/8 of clean water to the same mixture. Carry out the calculation in accordance with the resulting volume of sand-clay mixture.

Preliminary preparation of the foundation

Cover the frozen foundation waterproofing material. Roofing felt will do. You can also use waterproofing or other material with similar properties.

Let's start laying.

Laying out the first row. It will consist of 12 bricks. We make sure that the masonry is level using a level and only after that we fill the surface of the base with clay mortar.

Install the ash door. We first wrap it with asbestos cord. We use steel wire to secure the door. Insert the wire into the box and twist it twice. We make a cut in the top edge of the brick. We insert the wire into it, bend it and intertwine it with the masonry.

We lay out the second row in order.

The third and next rows, marked in yellow, are laid out from refractory bricks.

Between the 3rd and 4th rows we lay a grate with dimensions of 200 x 300 mm.

We place the bricks of the fourth row on edge. The diagram contains bricks marked in red. We lay them on internal partition in the chimney. We make the back brick “knock out”, i.e. lay it down without mortar. In the future, we will be able to remove such bricks and clean the oven. A convenient solution that eliminates the need to install a door.

Installation of the combustion door. The photo shows how to insert and twist the wire - clamp

We lay out the fifth row similarly to the previous one. We lay the bricks flat.

In the 6th row we lay out the bricks on edge. We work in order.

In the 7th row we place bricks flat everywhere except the back wall - we lay it out “on edge”. In all subsequent rows we place the bricks flat.

On the eighth row we close the firebox door. Internal fire bricks above combustion chamber we mow. This will allow us to use the stove as a fireplace if desired. This can be seen in the diagram.

We move the ninth row back. We lay asbestos cardboard on top of it, and then cast iron hob, if it's necessary. We fill the joints between the slab and the brick with asbestos cord.

On the 10th row we begin to lay out the base for the chimney. The continuation of the structure will be metal.

Lay out the 11th row and install the valve. We first wrap the valve with asbestos cord.

When laying the 12th row, we make a joint between metal pipe and a chimney. The chimney is taken out of the house through the roof. We line the intersection points mineral wool or others thermal insulation material. The height of the structure is determined individually. It should rise at least 50 cm above the highest point of the roof.

Perform the final finishing of the Dutch at your discretion. It can be whitewashed, beautifully tiled with tiles or tiles, or left without decoration at all - the bricks look beautiful anyway.

We lay a pre-furnace steel sheet on the floor in front of the furnace firebox. It will prevent the base material from igniting if coal falls out of the combustion chamber.

The finished oven must be allowed to dry for at least 2 weeks. Do not close the firebox door. Only after the specified time will it be possible to build a full-fledged fire in the oven. Before putting the Dutch oven into permanent use, burn some paper in the firebox to check the draft. The smoke must escape through the chimney.

Now you know how to build a Dutch oven yourself. Follow the recommendations received and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself Dutch oven