Siding – excellent material for cladding a house. At its affordable price, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.

You are invited detailed instructions By self-installation siding. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you can complete the finishing with any siding that involves installation on the sheathing: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.

Siding is best attached to pre-installed sheathing. We work in the following order.

The first stage - choosing the material

The frame can be assembled from wooden beam or metal profile. Metal products are stronger and more durable. In addition, metal lathing is much easier to attach to an uneven base.

Installation of profiles is carried out in half-meter increments. Suspensions are used for mounting to the wall. This technique will allow you to level out differences in the surface and secure the frame elements at a level.

Wooden sheathing is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited to:

• the material has peeled off;
• was deformed;
• had bluish spots and traces of rot, etc.

Elements of wooden sheathing must be impregnated with fire retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built of wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.

Stage two - preparing the base

The sheathing is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any parts that may interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.

The third stage - installing guides

Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or sheathing profiles vertically.

For attaching guides to wooden walls use nails or screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fasten it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.

We align each rail by level.

Important! If you plan to perform external wall insulation, it is best to install the siding sheathing after all insulation work has been completed. IN in this case there will be two lathing: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the slats of the two frames should be placed parallel to each other.

You can, of course, try to lay insulating layers after attaching the siding sheathing, but this is not very convenient.

Mounting J-profiles

The starting guides must be secured perfectly, because... The quality of the entire cladding depends on the correct installation.

First step. Take a level and find the lowest point on the sheathing. We step back 50 mm from it and put a mark. To do this, screw a little self-tapping screw into the rail.

Second step.

We consistently move around the building and continue to place marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw screws into the corners of the house.

Third step. We stretch the ropes between the corner marks. Fourth step. We mark the boundaries of installation of corner profiles on the slats. We take the profile itself and apply it to the corner

frame structure

and place marks along the edges using a pencil.

Important! We leave a 1-centimeter gap between the profiles to compensate for temperature deformations.

Leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.

To avoid making a 6 mm indentation, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest against the J-profile during temperature changes.

Important! Starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations as long as necessary.

If you install guides that deviate from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to correct this in the future.

We install external corner profiles

First step. We mark the soffits. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be located in the future.

Second step.

We apply the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fasten the profile with self-tapping screws.

Place the bottom border of the element 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.

Third step.

Helpful advice! Instead of a corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This way you can save money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. If you decide to use this method, first glue the wall around a similar corner with a strip of rolled waterproofing material.

We install internal corner profiles

The procedure for installing these elements does not differ significantly from the technology for arranging external corners - we leave a gap of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit, and lower the lower end of the profile below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.

If there is a protruding plinth or other element from below that stands out from the general level, then between it and the profile we also leave a 6-mm indentation - the profile of the internal corner must not rest against it.

There are 3 methods for arranging internal corners, see the picture.

If the wall height is more than 300 cm, we join the profiles together. The technology is the same as for arranging external corners.

We leave a 9mm gap between the slats, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install fasteners in 4-centimeter increments, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the highest point. Here the fasteners need to be installed at the top of the hole.

We install frames of openings

For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing window and doorways. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.

Openings in the same plane with the facade

In this case, we do the following.

First step. We waterproof openings.

Second step.

We attach platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal.

Third step.

Connecting profiles.

To make the connection of the platbands as neat as possible, we do this:

The platband at the bottom is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further laying on the profile below.

Take the time to understand the principles of bending such bridges. We make them so that they cover the joint of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.

Installing the first panel

We start cladding from the least noticeable wall of the building. This way we can practice and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.

First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the locking connection of the starting strip.

Important! We leave a 6 mm temperature gap between the first cladding element and the lower part of the corner profile lock.

Second step.

Attach the panel to the sheathing.

It is important to maintain the dimensions of technological indents. If the cladding is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm gap; if in cold weather, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When installing panel trims, the indents can be reduced.

Extending panels

We build up the cladding elements with an overlap or using an H-profile.

When attaching panels with an overlap, you must first shorten the locks of the facing panels and the fastening frames so that the resulting overlap has a length of 2.5 cm.

The installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, at the bottom we lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.

Important! We leave a 6mm gap between the H-profile and any obstacles on the façade of the house.

Installing the rest of the siding

We continue covering the house with siding. The operating technology is similar to the procedure for attaching the first panel.

Important! Every 2-3 rows we check the horizontality of the cladding using a level.

Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.

We ensure reliable fastening of the panels using “hooks”. For this we need a punch.

We install an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. This will allow the cladding to be leveled.

Installation under the roof

We attach a J-profile under the roof structure.

We work in the following order.

First step. We measure the distance between the bottom of the lock of the finishing element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.

Second step.

We subtract a 1-2 mm indent from the resulting measurement.

Third step.

We mount the pediment

We sheathe the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except the top one, are installed in the center of the holes. We install the upper fastening element at the top of the hole. It can be sheathed either with profiles for arranging internal corners or with a starting profile.

The installation procedure is similar to fastening wall panels. We trim the edges of the elements and connect them to the locks of the receiving profiles. We remember the 6 mm indentation when installing in warm weather and 9 mm when doing work in winter.

We fasten the last element of the gable cladding directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.

The cladding is complete.

In order for finishing a house with panels to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties of performing such work. There is a list general recommendations for any siding, as well as separate tips for panels made from a specific material.

For different materials

Now you can carry out siding installation at the highest level yourself.

Name (model)	Benefits	Length x width x thickness, mm	Quantity per package, pcs.
Vinyl Siding "Canada Plus"	1. Coloring in dark colors performed using the “Cool Color” method (heat absorption), which involves the use of masterbatches. 2. Excellent appearance remains unchanged even when exposed to high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50°C to +60°C. 3. Retains shock resistance even if the temperature environment drops to -20 - 60°C. 4. Not susceptible to microbiological corrosion (fungi, mold).	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Acrylic Siding "Canada Plus"	Among the others useful qualities acrylic siding "Canada Plus" is worth highlighting: Increased resistance to direct influences ultraviolet rays; Excellent tolerance to acidic and alkaline solutions, as well as various fats; Good tolerance to washing with chemical detergents; High degree of deformation resistance (perfectly tolerates temperatures up to 75°-80° C).	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
"Alta-Siding" - Vinyl Siding	"Alta siding" is: one of the safest finishing materials on the Russian market; frost resistance and the ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures (from -20 to -60°C); resistance to significant temperature changes and environmental influences; durability: the service life of Alta-siding is up to 30 years; resistance to aggressive substances (can be used to clean siding detergents); non-susceptibility to infection by mold fungi.	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Facade metal siding INSI	INSI siding is made of galvanized steel coated with a layer of polymer composition, which means it inherits all the advantages of this material: resistance to temperature changes (-50°C - +80°C) and mechanical damage; long service life with preservation of original properties (about 50 years); environmental friendliness; non-flammability; Possibility of installation both horizontally and vertically; protection of the building from overheating (in a ventilated facade system); and when choosing one of two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance.	Length up to 6000, width up to 200, thickness 0.5	-

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation

Vinyl siding is a simple enough material that you can work with it yourself. We provide step-by-step illustrated instructions for self-installation.

Siding is installed either directly on the walls of the house or on pre-installed sheathing. If lathing is planned, then installing it yourself will also be the first stage of siding installation.

Siding installation

The entire installation process with your own hands or by workers can be divided into the following installation stages:

We mark and attach the starting J-profiles

When installing siding yourself, especially for the first time, it is better to invest as much time in starting profiles as needed.

Using a building level, determine the lowest point on the lathing, make an indent 5 cm up from it and make a mark on the lathing with a shallowly screwed screw (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1: Starting profiles must be installed strictly horizontally

As you move around the house, continue to mark with screws at the corners of the house where the starting J-profiles are attached - until you return to the first mark.

If everything is measured accurately, the start and finish points will coincide!

Pull the cords onto the screw-marks screwed into the corners (Fig. 1).

Mark the boundaries of the location of the corner profiles on the laths - attach the profile itself to the corner of the sheathing and mark the edges with a pencil (Fig. 2).

Moving along the cord, leave a horizontal space of 6 mm from the border of the corner profiles, attach the J-profiles to the slats.

Do not forget about the technological gap of 10-12 mm between the profiles so that they do not touch during temperature changes.

There should also be a gap between the profiles and nail strips (Fig. 3).

If desired, instead of a 6 mm indentation, you can trim the nail strips with metal scissors so that they do not rest against the starting profile during temperature changes (Fig. 4).

Very important: when working with your own hands, pay maximum attention to ensure that the starting profiles are installed strictly horizontal!

A filled level during DIY installation will result in a number of siding panels also being skewed. Correcting this situation will be very difficult and may result in a violation of installation technology.

It is better to spend any amount of time maintaining the horizontal level of profiles - the time spent will pay off!

Installation of external corner profiles

Before installing the outside corners, install or mark the soffit so you can see where the edges will go.

Attach the profile to the corner of the sheathing so that the distance to the roof or soffit is 3 mm and secure it by installing a self-tapping screw at the top of the mounting hole on both sides.

The corner profile will be suspended with a distance of 3 mm from the soffit; the lower edge of the profile should be positioned 6 mm below the starting profile (Fig. 5).

Check the verticality a couple of times and, if everything is in order, secure the bottom, and then the rest of the fasteners. We recommend not placing fasteners too often in the corner profile.

2 potential issues with DIY installation:

• The height of the house exceeds 3 meters - the profile is shorter
• What if the house has protruding parts (like a basement or porch)?

If you need a length greater than 3 meters: the profiles will have to be overlapped; to do this, cut the top profile so that there is a 9 mm gap between the fastening strips of the joining profiles, and the overlap of the profiles is 25 mm (Fig. 6).

Important: the joints of the profiles are made at the same level on all sides of the facade!

If the base protrudes: everything is simple - the profile needs to be shortened so that it does not reach the 6 mm base.

2 J-profiles (starting profiles) can be used instead of a special corner one - this will help save money when installing it yourself. The disadvantage of this solution is that the corner will be less airtight from precipitation - it is better to glue the surface of the wall around this corner with a strip of rolled waterproofing (Fig. 7).

Installation of internal corner profiles

On the internal corners, the profiles are mounted in the same way as on the external ones - leave a gap of 3 mm to the soffit at the top, and make the lower end 6 mm below the strut profile.

A 6 mm indentation must remain before the protruding element below, if there is one (for example, a protruding plinth).

In the case of a protruding element at the bottom, the internal corner profile should not rest against it - there should be a gap of 6 mm.

There are 3 options for making internal corners:

If the wall is higher than 3 m, the profiles on the internal corners are spliced ​​absolutely identical to the external ones - this is very easy to do with your own hands.

A space of 9 mm is left between the fastening strips (excess vinyl is removed using metal scissors), the top panel overlaps the bottom panel by 25 mm. Fasteners are placed every 40 mm, in the center of the mounting holes, fasteners at the highest point are placed in the upper part of the mounting hole.

Installation of opening frames

When installing siding with your own hands, the framing of openings, as a rule, raises the most questions. Let's consider 2 installation options:

• Openings are in the same plane with the walls or protrude from the walls
• The openings are in the niches of the walls

If window or door openings are in the same plane with a facade, starting J-profiles or platbands are attached to them.

You must first waterproof the openings!

You will need 2 horizontal and 2 vertical trims per opening. To calculate the size of the platband, take the length of the side of the opening and increase it by twice the height of the platband - this additional distance will be required so that the platbands are beautifully and imperceptibly connected at the junction points.

The profiles (platbands) are connected as follows (Fig. 9):

• Make bridge cuts on the top profile on both sides (which are equal to its height)
• Bend these bridges down - precipitation and moisture should flow along them from the upper profile to the lower one
• Remove any pieces of vinyl on the side profiles that are interfering with the connection to the top
• Connect the top and side profiles (the bent bridges will be inside the profiles)

The lower casing is connected in the same way, only the bridges are cut and bent not on the lower, but on the side profiles in order to put them on the lower profile.

If the facade and the framed opening are in the same plane, then the cut pieces of vinyl are folded inside the lower profile or simply removed.

If the framed opening, on the contrary, is recessed, then when installing the near-window profile with your own hands, adhere to the same principles as with the platband - cuts are made in the profile equal to the depth of the opening niche, which are folded and inserted into the finishing profiles (Fig. 10-12).

In order not to get confused when installing siding with your own hands, it is important to understand the meaning of bending such tabs - they should always cover the joint of the profiles, so that moisture flows through them and didn't get inside. This logic will help evaluate the correctness of the connection.

Installation of the first panel

When installing siding with your own hands, installing the first panel requires maximum attention, just like installing the starting profile.

We recommend that you start installing siding (especially with your own hands) from the least visible side of the house - in order to get the hang of it and work out possible mistakes.

The panel is inserted into the lock of the starting strip and into the corner profile - it is necessary to leave 6 mm of space to the bottom of the lock of the corner profile, in case the dimensions of the panel change (Fig. 13). After this, attach the panel to the sheathing without tension.

Technological indentations must be strictly observed: when installing it yourself in winter, the panel (solid) can increase in size by 18 mm (maximum value).

Under the influence of the sun, the panel will also change its size, and then winter time will jump out of the lock of the adjacent profile if too much space has been left for thermal expansion.

• IN summer time year – 6 mm
• In winter – 9 mm

Extension of panels

The panels are built up either with an H-profile or with an overlap.

When installing overlapping siding panels with your own hands, trim the fastening frames and panel locks so that the overlap length is 25 mm (as is the case with profiles) (Fig. 14).

Attach the H-profile in the same way as the external and internal corner profiles - at the top the distance from the soffit is 3 mm, and at the bottom lower it 6 mm below the starting profile. In case of protruding obstacles on the façade, leave a 6 mm gap to the obstacle so that the H-profile does not touch it (Fig. 15).

The H-profile is built up with an overlap, according to the same principles as internal-external corner profiles.

Installation of other panels

When installing siding yourself, check the siding surface for horizontalness on every third row of panels.

When you reach the mark of the opening, on the panel that falls on the opening, calculate and remove the unnecessary part of the vinyl - you need to cut off the width of the opening from the panel, increased by twice the technological indentation of 6 mm.

By removing excess sections of vinyl from the ends of the panel, you will ensure a minimum vertical technological gap of 1-2 mm, and the cut ends of the panel will be able to move in the lock of the near-window profile if necessary (Fig. 16).

In order for the panels to be securely fastened, “hooks” are needed - you will need a special punch (punch).

An additional finishing profile is inserted into the lower frame of the opening to level the siding in the plane, since the depth of trimming the panels depends on the height of the opening on the facade and can vary.

Rice. 17: Installing the finishing siding panel on the wall

Further steps when installing siding yourself:

1. Measure the distances in different places between the lock of the penultimate siding panel and the bottom of the lock of the finishing profile
2. Subtract a technological indent of 1-2 mm from this value
3. Mark the entire siding panel, remove the top part with the lock
4. Make “hooks”, bend them to the front side, on the top of the panel (step 20 cm)
5. Insert the trimmed panel into the penultimate panel and snap it into the lock of the finishing profile upwards

Installation of the pediment

Sheathe the perimeter of the pediment, placing the fasteners as follows: the top fastener at the top of the fastening hole, the rest in the center. Both J-profiles and internal corner profiles can be used.

Installing the panels yourself is identical to the walls. The edges of the panels are trimmed and inserted into the locks of the receiving profiles. Don't forget to make a technological indent here too.

The amount of space between the siding and the bottom of the lock (gutter):

• 6 mm – in summer
• 9 mm in winter

The final (last) gable panel is attached directly through the vinyl - this is absolutely the only place where it is possible to attach siding in this way.

The only time you can attach a siding panel directly through the vinyl is the last panel

The main difficulties when carrying out facing work using siding are surface preparation and fastening of the facing material.

In fact, even an untrained person can easily handle fastening and installation.

Of course, you can’t do this without knowledge of technology, so in this material we will look in detail at how to attach vinyl siding and what is required for this.

Siding is used for exterior decoration of walls of residential buildings and industrial buildings. In addition to its attractive appearance, this cladding has excellent functional properties, such as durability, resistance to temperature and moisture.

If you need to update the appearance of the facade or disguise its shortcomings, siding will be a suitable solution.

If the technology is followed, the surface of the walls will be reliably protected from moisture

This finish is perfect for regions with a relatively aggressive climate, such as in Russia. Material tests were carried out in laboratory conditions, the material has proven its strength in practice - after all, it has been mass-produced for several years.

In terms of maintenance, the material is quite unpretentious - during operation you do not have to do painting work every year or impregnate the material with special liquids. The vinyl surface can be simply washed with a stream of water from a hose or a damp cloth.

Selecting the required size

To begin with, you should purchase the material desired color and size. Six-meter panels are usually used for cladding facades - after them there is much less waste, since such a panel is easy to divide into products required sizes. Price plays a significant role when choosing siding. One square meter costs from 180 to 200 rubles.

Today the range of textures and color options varies over a very wide range. The main manufacturers have in their assortment both single-color panels and textured panels that imitate wood, stone or brick.

How to calculate the amount of material

After choosing the right color and texture of the material, you will need what is needed to cover the building. To do this, it is convenient to use a diagram of the walls of the house - you can draw it yourself, you do not have to comply with any standards for this. Measure the lengths and heights of all walls, and calculate their areas using the formula S = a x b, where a is the length, b is the height.

When making calculations you can use these formulas

Next, you should add up all the resulting areas - this way you will find out how much material you need to purchase for finishing the walls. Yes, it is important not to forget to subtract the area of ​​doors and doors from the total area of ​​the walls. window openings– you won’t have to cover them with siding.

Since this cladding usually covers the entire house, including the pediment, its area must also be measured. To do this, you need to measure the length of the base and the height of the triangle from the middle of the base to the top apex. The area of ​​a triangle is calculated using the formula S = ½ x a x h (half the length of the base times the height).

Adding up the areas of rectangular walls and triangular gables will give you the total area that will be finished with siding. After all the calculations have been made, you can buy the most accurate amount of material, thus minimizing costs.

Where to start attaching siding

Before you begin the main work of installing and fastening the cladding, you should prepare the following tools:

Before attaching the panels, you should also clear the walls of weeds and plants, remove all decorations from the walls, and remove lanterns and drainpipes. If there are any other structures on the facade that may interfere with installation, they should be removed as well.

If there are rotten boards on the walls, you need to replace them with new ones, and treat undamaged wood with an antiseptic. Despite the fact that all the shortcomings will be hidden by the finishing, it is still better to eliminate the possibility of further destruction of the wood.

Shutters, window sills, and protruding structures around windows and doors also need to be removed. After with outside The walls will remain clean at home; you can check them for verticality using a level.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing made of wooden blocks

If the deviations of the walls from the vertical are less than 1 cm, and the walls themselves are in perfect condition, you don’t have to do lathing. For old buildings, most likely the walls have already deformed and it is impossible to do without lathing. So, to start installing the sheathing, you need to prepare the tools and install the scaffolding.

The sheathing can be made from slats and boards. The slats are attached to the walls with 10 cm nails. They are nailed at distances of 30-40 cm from each other. Before you start nailing boards and battens over all surfaces, you should nail a few starting ones at the corners of the walls, as well as around door and window openings. Insulation boards are laid between the sheathing slats. This could be foam or mineral wool.

When installing a metal frame, you can use these parameters

In the case of using metal, the siding profile is secured with galvanized screws to pre-installed brackets.

The siding will be secured with nails or self-tapping screws. In any case, the fasteners must be coated with an anti-corrosion coating. It is more convenient to fasten the siding with self-tapping screws using an automatic screwdriver with reverse. Simply tightening self-tapping screws in a semi-automatic mode is much easier than driving nails.

The presence of a reverse screwdriver will allow you to quickly create temperature gaps - just unscrew each screw one turn so that the panels do not deform under the influence of thermal expansion.

Fastening vinyl panels

To secure the starting line, you need:

In addition to installing horizontal panels, you need to somehow trim the windows and corners. There are special accessories for this.

Installation of corners will give the facade a finished look and, what is much more important, will protect the house from moisture from the outside getting under the siding. Mounting feature corner elements is such that they should overlap the horizontal siding by 1 cm. Again, the structures should not be adjacent to each other, you need to leave a small distance between them.

The fastening of the horizontal panels ends with the installation of the finishing strip - it has a decorative edge, as a result of which the siding takes on a beautifully outlined appearance.

Next, the soffit is attached - there is no need to skimp on this element, since it has an important functional feature. The holes in it are needed for air circulation and ventilation of the facade. Without good ventilation, moisture will begin to stagnate between the siding and the walls.

After familiarizing yourself with the technology, all that remains is to carry out all the actions described in the article. As you can see, all difficulties arise immediately before the siding itself is attached.

Installing the panels is reminiscent of assembling a construction set, and when performing sequential actions, it will not pose any special problems. If the technology described above is not entirely clear, we suggest watching a video on how to properly attach siding:

The design of the facade or basement of a private house is not always dictated by the desire to make the house more original. Often, exclusively practical goals are pursued - protecting walls, hiding obvious flaws. Therefore, it is not always possible or advisable to use expensive façade materials. And in these cases, vinyl siding comes to the rescue.

Features of vinyl siding, video

Vinyl siding is a relatively new and practical material for finishing facades, which consists of cladding panels about 1 mm thick and stylized to resemble natural Construction Materials for plating. The panel can be either vertically or horizontally oriented, but the essence remains the same - changing the appearance of the facade and protecting the walls from natural influences, mechanical damage, for installing insulation, etc. Its aesthetic qualities can be debated, but the main indisputable advantages of the material are are called:

In order to PVC panel showed all its positive sides, it needs to be mounted correctly, and this is quite painstaking process. Installing vinyl siding with your own hands, the video lesson for which we have prepared is presented in general terms in the lesson, and we will touch on some features and tricks during installation.

Preparing to Install Vinyl Siding

It is very important, before laying vinyl siding, to decide on its type based on the design of the exterior of the house. The fact is that in a store it is very difficult to judge from one sample panel how the house as a whole will look. Even choosing the wrong color for the panel can damage the appearance or fail to achieve the desired results. After the siding has already been purchased, it is necessary to begin preparatory work.

PVC siding is mounted only on a frame or sheathing. Their design depends on what kind of siding, vertical or horizontal, we chose for finishing. Wooden slats or galvanized steel are used as a frame. metallic profile, which is used for installing drywall. In rare cases, you can do without lathing if we are talking only about aesthetic design and the walls are perfectly smooth. But siding, as a rule, is laid on a layer of insulation, and this introduces some difficulties, so perhaps we’ll start with insulation.

Regardless of whether insulation is provided in the cladding design or not, the marking of the facade is mandatory stage. Despite the fact that the panels have perfectly even geometric shapes, markings are necessary in both vertical and horizontal planes. Using a level or plumb line, the fastening points of the frame elements are marked on the walls of the building. Depending on the type of siding panels, slats or profiles are placed both vertically and horizontally strictly according to the markings. Galvanized metal profiles are fixed at a distance of 40 cm, and wooden slats at a distance of no more than 50 cm from each other.

1. Installation of insulation is carried out according to this algorithm, and depending on what finishing material used, the installation diagram changes very rarely:
2. A spacer strip is attached directly to the wall, which provides ventilation to the wall. Its thickness can be about 10 mm.
3. A layer of rolled vapor barrier is nailed to the plank.
4. In the spaces between the main frame slats, a layer or several layers of heat insulation are laid - mineral wool, as a rule, in this case the most likely candidate for installation.
5. Wind insulation is installed on top of the insulation.
6. Sometimes a spacer bar is installed on top of it for better ventilation.
7. Only after this are the siding panels attached to the base frame rail.

I would like to note that all wooden frame elements must be treated with an antiseptic. This will eliminate the possibility of fungi and pests appearing in the frame, which in turn will affect the durability of the entire structure.

As you can see, by installing siding ourselves, we save a significant amount. At the same time, we reserve the right to choose materials and technologies. Having carefully understood the technology for installing siding panels and spending some time on installation, the house will receive a completely different appearance and enhanced protection from cold and wind.

The main thing and obvious advantage is the ease of installation of siding, having necessary set tools, installing siding with your own hands is within the power of anyone, even a person who does not have vocational training and experience.

Like all finishing materials, siding will expand or contract under the influence of temperature, for this reason, you should avoid tensioning the panels and do not nail them tightly onto the sheathing. Usually, a 2 or 3 mm gap is enough.

When laying panels, take care to maintain a gap of 6-9 mm for thermal expansion. When installing in frosty conditions, the gap should be approximately 12 mm.

Siding cutting can be carried out at temperatures above -10°. Otherwise, it is better to cut in a heated room.

It is better to fasten siding using galvanized short self-tapping screws that have a round head and do not have a drill. It is also possible to use tar nails. One more important point installation is that the siding should be attached exclusively in the center, and not from the edges.

For uneven walls, sheathing is required. If you perform the cladding without sheathing, then the entire curvature of the walls will be reflected on the siding. But even with perfect walls you can perform lathing - this will ensure ventilation of the facade, which will have a good effect on performance characteristics the buildings.

The sheathing for siding is made of wood or metal

Each has pros and cons. Metal lathing has a slightly higher cost, although only slightly. Wooden sheathing must be treated with a special compound. For horizontal siding, vertical sheathing is performed, and vice versa.

If you use a special tool to install siding, the job will be done faster and better. In addition to this, you will have to work:

Siding Installation Basics

Below is a plan of work that will need to be done to cover a house with siding:

Preparatory work

The first step is to dismantle all protruding parts: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Next, you should seal all the cracks using polyurethane foam or cement mortar.

The walls should also be cleaned of all contaminants. A wooden house must be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic; foam concrete walls are treated with a primer.

Sheathing installation work

Since siding is not attached to the walls, sheathing must be installed. To do this, use a metal profile or wooden slats. For walls made of concrete and brick, galvanized profiles are used.

You can use a CD profile for drywall. When facing frame or wooden house, you can use wooden slats 60 by 40 mm, having a residual moisture content of 15-20%. Before using the slats, they should be treated with an antiseptic. Using a tape measure and a level, make a straight line marking of the walls until a closed contour is obtained.

Now, the distance from the marking to the foundation is measured at the corners, after which another contour is drawn according to the minimum value. The next stage is the installation of vertical guides. They must fit snugly against the walls; to achieve this, you can use pieces of wood or dense foam. The guides should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.

In areas of additional load, for example, at corners and near windows, additional guides will be required. There should be no connections between the vertical guides. This is done to provide ventilation, which prevents the growth of fungi.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Waterproofing must be done, unlike insulation.

For this purpose, a moisture- and wind-proof membrane is used. If thermal insulation is performed, the lathing must be done in two layers.

Installation of guide elements

Installation begins with drainage. It is a rigid structure, so it is easy to attach. After that, corner profiles are attached using self-tapping screws. The next stage is fastening the starting strip to the drainage along the markings. Along the perimeter of the windows, window strips or J-profiles are fastened so that the location of the outer lower edge is slightly lower than the inner one.

The doorway is edged using J-profiles. When H-profiles are installed vertically in previously determined locations, use a level. Here you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the foundation to avoid bending of the planks over time. The top edge of the siding is covered with a finishing strip.

Panel installation work

After installing all the guide elements, you can begin installing the panels. The first row is fastened to the starting bar.

All other panels are fastened in the same way, up to the window or roof. The panels should not be overtightened or tightly secured; they should move a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished using a finishing strip.

The siding can be connected along its length using a special H-rail. When using it, the panels are installed in the H-rail, and you do not have to deal with the so-called “running” - i.e. make sure that the joints are not located along one vertical line.

It goes without saying that the H-rails will be visible from the outside of the building, which can negatively affect the design. This problem can be solved simply - either the H-rails are matched to the color of the siding, or the siding is installed “overlapping”. As already mentioned, this kind of finishing requires a “run-up” so that the seam line is not so noticeable. Usually, they try to direct the visible part of the joints to the side from which the house is viewed less often.

This helps improve the visual perception of the building. Do not forget that using H-rails, you lose in terms of efficiency, due to the greater number of trims. Of course, all this is relevant only when the siding strip is shorter than the length of the wall.

Do not cut the siding ahead of time. It is more convenient to trim during the installation process.

Video: do-it-yourself siding installation instructions for dummies

Many people cannot decide how to improve the appearance of their home. For this reason, this material describes how to decorate a house using best material for performing such work as facing installation - siding. Video instructions are attached.

There is nothing difficult in the process of installing siding; you just need to watch the video and install everything exactly as described there. But before watching, it’s worth reading a step-by-step explanation of this process:

1. Surface preparation.

Insulation

Place insulation boards on the surface of the walls.

The space between the slats should not be completely filled with insulation; at least a minimum distance should remain for ventilation.

Attaching siding (installation is carried out from bottom to top!)

Determine the lower level of the siding plates.

Mark the lower level using twine or chalk.

Install the first row of planks along the marking line.

Install external or internal corners.

Install trim strips on window and door openings.

How to calculate siding for a house

You have decided to cover your house with siding, but the question arises - how to calculate the siding for a house? Yes, very simple! Since siding is a finishing material with clear geometric dimensions and a specific purpose, its quantity can be calculated up to 1 m².

To begin with, during the calculation process you will have to use the following items:

• tape measure - to take initial measurements;
• a leaf and a pencil - for sketching sketches;
• calculator - for calculations.

The amount of siding for cladding the building is calculated in stages. The first step is to calculate how many siding panels are required, and at the second stage of calculations, the required additional elements are calculated.

Before you start making calculations, you should decide on the exact value of the area to be covered. To complete these steps, you should start drawing up a schematic drawing of the building, which you will later measure.

Important point: if there is a building that needs to be faced complex geometry, then in your schematic drawing, in addition to the dimensions, the placement of the panels should also be indicated.

Thus, you create a foundation for correct use material, and reduce the likelihood of encountering unplanned waste and siding shortages.

The following formula will help you with your calculations:

Sр = Sst – So

where Sр is the calculated area, Sst is the area of ​​the walls, So is the area of ​​windows and doors.

Now, we calculate the siding, taking into account the material that will not be used, according to the following formula:

where Sc is the siding area, and % is unused material.

The amount of waste is taken to be 7-10% in the case of cladding rectangular walls. And from 10 to 15% if trapezoidal walls are sheathed, or the walls have a large number of protrusions, recesses, etc. The more complex the configuration of the building, the greater the percentage of waste generated.

The next stage is dividing the resulting area Sc by the usable area of ​​one strip of siding. For example, a strip of siding has a total area of ​​0.89 m², then its useful area is approximately 0.777 m2.

By the way, the mathematical approach for calculation is most often used by sellers, due to the fact that their responsibilities include selling as much material as possible.

To avoid possible inaccuracies, it would be appropriate to draw up a plan that will accurately describe the detailed location of each strip of siding on a specific wall. If you use sketches, the calculation will be more accurate and you will get visual diagram installation.

This calculation method uses the following formula:

where N is the total number of panels, Sp is the useful area of ​​one panel, H is the height of the building.

Removing shutters, grilles, drainpipes and other fixtures from the surface on which the siding will be installed.

Installation of siding sheathing. When using wooden slats, they should be impregnated with an antiseptic, since they have a moisture content of no more than 15-18%. Vertical slats are mounted at a fixed interval of 30-40 cm.

Covering a house with siding photo

In this material, you are presented with examples of how to cover a house with siding - photos of buildings, exterior finishing which are made using classic vinyl siding, wood siding and facade panels. If you are choosing finishing materials for your home, then here you will find a lot of information for yourself!