How to make a raspberry

Raspberries are usually grown using the strip or bush method. With the bush growing method, 10-12 of the most strongly developed shoots are formed on each bush. When placing in strips, shoots are left evenly along the entire length of the row at the rate of 10-12 pieces per 1 m of row.

After forming the raspberry tree using any of the above methods, I install trellises. The simplest trellis- these are wires stretched on both sides of the row at a height of 1.2 and 1.5 m. At the ends of the row I placed strong posts with crossbars 80 cm long, at the height required for attaching the trellises. Such trellises allow you to properly organize the growth and fruiting of raspberries. I evenly attach two-year-old fruiting shoots with soft wire to both trellises. Thus, the fruiting shoots end up on both sides of the raspberry row, and the middle remains free for the growing young shoots of the current year. Are being created favorable conditions illumination The shoots grow thick, powerful, do not stretch, are laid good basis future harvest. It should be emphasized that the upper part of the raspberry bushes, which is located above the stretched trellis, should be no higher than 35-40 cm, otherwise, under the weight of a large harvest, the shoots bend over the trellis and break.

In autumn, after harvest, As low as possible, close to the ground, I cut out all the fruit-bearing shoots, without waiting until late autumn. I usually remove them from the garden and burn them to destroy the pests that have settled there.

For the winter(before negative temperatures) I make sure to bend the raspberry bushes to the ground as low as possible and secure them in this position. When performing this work later, when sub-zero temperatures, frozen shoots break, so you can’t be late with this operation. As soon as the snow falls, I try to completely cover the bushes with it before the onset of severe frosts.

Spring care I start harvesting raspberries immediately after the snow melts: I pick up shoots that have been bent for the winter, carefully inspect them, and remove broken ones. You also need to check whether there are any frozen shoots - I remove them completely, and if only the tops are frozen, then I shorten them to the healthy part. I also trim the remaining shoots, but no more than 10-12 cm. This pruning is done to cause branching of the shoots, on which the bulk of the crop is formed. Of the young shoots that begin to appear in May, I leave the most powerful ones, and cut out the rest at the very base. I continue to remove excess shoots throughout the summer, not allowing them to grow above 10-15 cm. If they are left to grow, then, firstly, they consume a large number of nutrients from the mother plant, secondly, the raspberry bush thickens, and the shoots left to replace those that bear fruit stretch out in the struggle for light and grow weakened.

F. Khalilov, Ph.D. agricultural sciences

June 23, 2013

A high raspberry yield can be obtained by choosing the right varieties and using effective growing technology. To obtain high-quality marketable products, it is better for farmers to plant plantations of remontant raspberry varieties with productive forms with high quality fruits and a short fruiting period.

Raspberries - perennial shrub, but each stem lives only two years: in the first it grows, in the second it bears fruit, and after fruiting it dies. The plant continues to exist in the same place and even quickly takes over the area adjacent to it due to the constant renewal of branches. The underground part of the raspberry consists of a rhizome and adventitious roots with buds extending from it. The bulk of the roots are located at a depth of 10-20 cm and within a radius of up to 50-60 cm.

Distinctive features of raspberry varieties

Modern raspberry varieties differ in many ways. Bushes can be compact or spreading in shape; in height - high (more than 2.0 m), medium (1.2-2.0 m) and low (less than 1.2 m). Stems can be erect or drooping. Varieties with high shoot productivity form more than 30 shoots per 1 linear meter of a row, with average - from 20 to 30, with weak - less than 20. Based on the size of the berries, varieties are distinguished into large-fruited (more than 3 g), medium-fruited (1.5-3.0 d) and small-fruited (less than 1.5 g).

According to the time of ripening of berries, varieties are divided into early, medium, late and remontant. Varieties are also distinguished by frost resistance: plants are the most frost-resistant varieties They don’t cover it for the winter. The average raspberry yield is 50-70 c/ha (0.5-0.7 kg/m2), high - up to 140-150 c/ha (1.4-1.5 kg/m2).

It should be noted that raspberries are a good honey plant: from 1 hectare of plantings, beekeepers receive up to 100 kg of honey.

Choosing a landing site

Raspberry plants are light- and moisture-loving, but cannot withstand waterlogging. In shading, the shoots stretch out, become weak, and the quality and quantity of fruits decreases. Raspberries prefer soils rich in nutrients, well drained, with groundwater no closer than 1.0-1.5 m, not clogged with perennial weeds. However, provided large doses of organic fertilizers are applied, raspberries can produce high yields even on poor soils. It grows and bears fruit well on a flat slope, protected from strong winds, but only where cold air does not accumulate.

The soil for planting is prepared in advance. In the area intended for planting raspberries, grains, legumes or row crops are cultivated. These crops are chosen because they usually leave the field relatively weed-free. In the second year, the soil is kept under black fallow and only after that raspberries are planted. The immediate predecessors of raspberries can also be carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, onions for feathers, dill for greens - in this case they are harvested early and the soil is prepared for planting raspberries.

Advantages of remontant varieties

• In remontant varieties, growth and fruiting occur within one year. The shoot has grown, generative buds have formed on it, and in the same year flowers and berries are formed from them. Examples of such varieties are Bryansk Divo and Golden Autumn.
• For remontant varieties, painstaking work on cutting out fruit-bearing branches is not required.
• Agricultural technology becomes simpler, and accordingly, the economic efficiency of raspberry cultivation increases.
• Damage from pests and diseases is reduced.
• Every year the plantation gets healthier.
• In winter, the stems do not freeze or freeze slightly - they simply do not exist.

In one place, raspberries can grow and bear fruit for about 10 years. The old plantation, which has served its purpose, is uprooted, and a new one is planted in its place on a previously prepared site. You cannot plant raspberries in their old place immediately after uprooting.

Plantation planting

The best time to start a plantation is late September - early October. If necessary, you can plant in the spring, but only until the buds of the seedlings begin to grow. When choosing the location of the plantation, the distance from the border of the site or from other plantings should be 1.0-1.5 m. Soil preparation When planting raspberries, the depth of the arable layer is of particular importance, which should be at least 25-30 cm. Therefore, plowing for previous crops and before planting they are carried out with a subsoiler, loosening the soil to a depth of 4045 cm. Before planting on acidic soils Liming is carried out at the rate of 200-400 g/m2 of ground limestone. Best used on light soils dolomite flour. The amount of organic fertilizer applied depends on the fertility of the soil and can be from 10 to 14 kg/m2. Phosphorus (8-16 g/m2) and potassium (8-32 g/m2) fertilizers are used depending on the soil supply with these elements. Nitrogen fertilizers do not apply before planting.

Immediately before planting, the area is cultivated and the soil surface is leveled.

Important!

• You cannot plant raspberries in their old place immediately after uprooting.
• In one place, raspberries can grow and bear fruit for about 10 years. During this time, the soil is depleted, weeds, pests, and pathogens accumulate on the plantation, the plants age, lose their stability, and reduce productivity.
• Plants can be placed on a plantation in one or several rows, in a strip or bush manner.

Landing

Plants can be placed on a plantation in one or several rows, in a strip or bush manner. It is easier to grow raspberries in continuous strips 5060 cm wide than in bushes. In this case, there is no need to worry about preserving the base of the bush and the number of stems in it. When pruning, they simply leave strong, strong stems so that the distance between them is at least 10 cm, which means that there will be 25-30 stems per 1 linear meter.

The row spacing is 2-3 m. In a row, plants are planted every 0.3-0.75 m, which depends on the vigor of plant growth and the shoot-forming ability of the planted variety. In accordance with the accepted row spacing along future rows, furrows up to 30 cm deep are cut with a plow.

From the experience of experienced

• When groundwater is close to the ground, planting holes are not needed. In this case, it is better to plant raspberries in beds or mounds. At the planting site, the soil is loosened to the depth of the arable horizon, and a mound of fertile soil is poured on top.
• Where there is little precipitation or where snow accumulates slowly in winter, the furrow or hole is not completely covered with earth.
• To speed up the harvest, you can plant two seedlings in one hole.

In small areas, raspberries are planted by hand under a shovel. The depth of the planting hole is 30-40 cm, and the diameter is 40-60 cm. With the bush method of cultivation, the planting pattern is 1.8x1.8 m, and varieties with low shoot-forming ability can be planted more densely. On poor soils, in addition to the main filling, add more to the furrows or holes. organic fertilizers at the rate of 4-5 kg/m2.

Immediately before planting, the furrows or holes are soaked generously with water. Then the seedling is placed in a hole or furrow, the roots are straightened so that they go in different directions, and covered with soil. At the same time, it is shaken several times so that lumps of earth penetrate between the roots. After planting, the growth bud on the rhizome should be in the soil at a depth of 2-3 cm.

Roman KUDRYAVETS, doctor p. -X. Sci.

See also in this section:

Raspberry itself is very sweet berry, By classic recipe For jam, take 1 kg of berries and 1 kg of sugar. But I do it differently.

One autumn I bought a seedling remontant raspberries Augustovskoe Miracle variety. I immediately planted it, and the next year, by August, a new fruit-bearing branch and several root shoots had grown. I carefully separated them and planted them.

For many years we grew raspberries that bear fruit on the shoots of the second year of life in midsummer. And now the Polka variety has appeared on our site, which bears fruit on one-year-old shoots and bears fruit later - from the end of August until the end of the growing season. We cut off the fruit-bearing shoots at the root with pruning shears, after which we wait until spring - until the new growing season. Late raspberries are not damaged by pests; they have large, transportable berries that are highly valued on the market - in the fall they have no competitors.

Two years ago I planted raspberries in a row and made supports. But now it has spread to almost half the site. How to make sure that raspberries grow in the place allotted for them?

Probably, many people have one of the brightest childhood memories of delicious and ripe raspberries that grew on their grandmother’s plot. And now, having grown up, people are still partial to this delicacy.

You shouldn’t deny yourself this pleasure, because it’s quite possible to grow raspberry bushes in your garden, and according to all the rules. This will not only make the design more interesting, but will also allow you to enjoy the berries every year!

Some property owners plant a couple of bushes near the fence, forgetting about them for many years: this approach is unlikely to provide good harvest or decorative appeal. Important point when creating a raspberry tree - this right choice places. The plant loves the sun and does not tolerate wind very well. In addition, raspberries cannot be placed next to cherries, and even 3 meters will not save the bushes from a harmful neighborhood. Sea buckthorn nearby is also not recommended. If you plant raspberries with currants, the latter will wither and die.

Subtleties of landing

Raspberries are planted from about mid-August to the 20th of September. You can also plant the plant in summer and spring - as a rule, it takes root. Rows or single bushes look equally good, but in both cases the raspberries need to be tied up.

Typically, bushes are planted along the perimeter of the site boundaries, at a distance of 80 centimeters from each other. It is best to dig up shoots that stand out from the overall picture. After ten years, the raspberries need to be transplanted to another place, otherwise they will stop bearing fruit and quickly die.

Caring for raspberries

Raspberry bushes love water very much, so at least two buckets should be poured under each plant weekly. It is best to water in the evening, otherwise the moisture will quickly evaporate from the heat and sun.

Raspberry has surface system roots, so the abundance of weeds will prevent the bushes from developing: they will take away water and nutrients that are not intended for them. Therefore, you need to carry out mulching, which will be able to curb uninvited garden guests. Peat, rotted sawdust, leaves, straw can be used as mulch, and the layer should be approximately 10 centimeters.

The plant is fed with rotted manure: first, straw is placed under the raspberries, and ready-made fertilizer is placed on it. This procedure should be carried out every year - bushes really like loose soil. Sometimes you can feed with pigeon droppings or slurry, but before doing this, the raspberries need to be watered very generously so as not to burn their roots.

The stem has life cycle two years long: in the first it grows, in the second it bears fruit, and then dies. Young ones grow in parallel with the main trunk. The bush is constantly renewed thanks to root shoots. Old stems need to be cut off at the base so that they do not interfere with young shoots. You need to leave the same number of sprouts, and the strongest ones, the rest should be removed. Every spring, the dry ends are cut off, and the buds of the green ones are pinched on the sides.

Raspberries do not like frost, but many varieties can survive the winter without additional shelter. The bushes must be tied or pinned to the ground - usually these measures are sufficient.

Popular raspberry varieties

Before planting raspberries in your garden, you should decide on the plant variety. The bushes may have red, yellow, purple or black berries. Some of them bear fruit twice during the year. The most important thing to consider when purchasing seedlings is the climatic conditions. For cold regions, it is better to take frost-resistant varieties.

Red-fruited varieties feel great in middle lane. Among them, “Bryanskaya”, “Balsam”, “Maroseyka”, “Arbata”, “Meteor” and “Patricia” are especially popular.

Yellow-fruited varieties include “Slastena zheltaya”, “Beglyanka” and “Yellow Giant”. They don't require any special care compared to regular red raspberries.

The chokeberry plant differs from the rest in its taste, as well as in its larger root system, which goes deep into the soil layer. It needs frequent and abundant watering, as well as shelter in case of frost. Among the varieties in demand are "Bristol" and "Cumberland", but they are not very popular among gardeners. The taste of the berries is reminiscent of blackberries, and caring for raspberries requires much more effort than with ordinary bushes.

Of the varieties that bear fruit twice during the year, “Hercules”, “Golden Domes”, “Kalashnik” and “Izobilnaya” are especially famous. But such bushes should not be planted in regions where frosts begin early, since the berries and ends of the shoots that do not have time to ripen freeze and die, which is why the first harvest is meager.

Ekaterina Chizhova (Simora), especially for the site.

When the harvest ripens, the raspberry tree may not withstand the load and bend from the wind. This makes caring for the berry garden more difficult. In this situation, a very worthy agricultural technique is used - tying raspberries to supports, which are used as a trellis. If the raspberry tree has already been formed, it’s time to start installing the trellis. Then your bushes will begin to bear a good harvest. installed for the same purpose.

Amateur gardeners do not always use a trellis when growing raspberries. There is always enough trouble in the garden, and some people get by by tying bushes to supports in the form of stakes, or without them at all. Sometimes they even get good harvests. But this only applies low-growing varieties with thick, upright growing stems and not very large berries.

Purpose

Modern raspberry varieties are, for the most part, quite tall. They have a shoot length of about 1.8 m. In addition, they all have long fruiting branches. And since gardeners try to choose varieties with large berries, these thin branches cannot withstand such a load.

You can't do without tying. During the ripening of the crop, heavy berries tilt the bushes towards the ground, and gusts of wind aggravate the situation. A simple trellis can fix everything.

Advantages of trellises

The benefits of a trellis are obvious. When growing raspberries on a large scale, the installation of trellises is a mandatory agrotechnical technique as a result of which:

• the lower tier of branches does not touch the ground and does not get dirty;
• the fruits do not come into contact with the soil and remain clean after rain;
• plantings are well ventilated, which prevents the development of fungal infections;
• The berries are evenly illuminated and ripen smoothly.

This device is useful not only for raspberries, but also for the gardener. The trellis simplifies the implementation of raspberry tree care activities such as:

• pruning and cutting out fruit-bearing shoots;
• watering and mulching the soil;
• harvesting;
• preparation for winter.

The trellis is really convenient. You only need to build it once correct design and use it for several years.

Design options: dimensions and design methods

The trellis consists of pillars with wire stretched in several rows. There are two main groups of trellises:

1. single-lane;
2. two-lane.

There are adherents of both designs. Experienced gardeners believe that the use of a single-plane trellis is less effective. But it is successfully used in small areas.

Single lane

Its purpose is to hold raspberry bushes between posts with a stretched twine. Depending on the method of tying raspberry shoots, they are divided into:

• fan;
• vertical flat;
• free;
• inclined;
• horizontal.

In essence, this is the same structure made of pillars and rows of twine or wire. The difference is in the methods of tying the bushes. All types are designed to hold raspberries during the growing season. There are subtleties with using a horizontal trellis.

It is also used to prepare raspberries for winter. After installing the trellis, in early spring, last year's shoots are tilted towards the soil and secured in a horizontal position. After this operation, the fruit branches along the entire length of the shoot begin to grow vertically, and the buds at the base remain dormant. This method of forming a bush simplifies the process of covering raspberry plantations for the winter.

A serious disadvantage of one-sided structures is that each stem must be tied or secured with wire separately. In small areas this is not so important, but for owners of raspberry fields of significant size, this is a significant disadvantage.

Two-way

For large berry gardens, it is better to use an improved form of trellis - a two-lane one. It, in turn, also comes in different forms:

• T-shaped;
• V-shaped;
• Y-shaped;
• Tent horizontal.

A two-lane trellis, in addition to its main function - supporting fruit-bearing bushes, makes it possible to correctly form a raspberry tree. It consists of two parallel rows of wire, stretched at a distance of 0.50 cm to 3 m. This design prevents plantings from thickening and helps spread powerful shoots to the sides, which has a positive effect on the harvest.

T-shaped

The essence of this design is clear from the name. The base of such a trellis is pipes, beams, any scraps of reinforcement, fixed perpendicularly. The wire is stretched along the edges of the protruding strip. When forming a bush, fruiting shoots are placed on opposite sides of the trellis. The center remains vacant. Over time, it is occupied by young shoots.

Diagram of a T-shaped trellis.

V-shaped

This design has two load-bearing planes that are inclined. The second name for the trellis is two-lane inclined. The bushes are formed in the same way as in the previous type of trellis. It should be noted that the distance between inclined planes should not exceed 2 meters.

Y-shaped trellis

This modern version supports for raspberries. It has details in the form of blades. They are movable because they are mounted on hinges. This design is easy to use and can change the angle of inclination of the structure. In this case, the blades can be lowered or raised.

Tent horizontal

This molding has found application in farms where machine harvesting is practiced. It did not take root among gardeners and summer residents. The reason for this is the difficulty of holding branches with berries above it and poor accessibility of row spacing. Mulching, pruning and fertilizing are very complicated.

For remontant raspberries

Remontant raspberry varieties are grown in two ways: to produce one or two harvests per season. A trellis is needed in both cases. Modern remontant varieties bear fruit so well that without tying the bush simply will not withstand such a load, and part of the harvest will end up on the ground.

Trellis for remontant varieties are no different from those described. Practice shows that it is convenient to use two-strip trellises. Then 2-year-old shoots with the first harvest are placed on one plane, and young shoots that will produce a harvest in the fall are placed on the second.

For vigorous varieties They use trellises in the shape of the letter T. The distance between the posts is 8–10 m. The length of the transverse slats depends on the width of the row in the raspberry field, and ranges from half a meter to a meter.

The supports of the V-shaped trellis are installed in the center of the row. Make a tilt of 20–30 degrees, and then pull the wire in 2 rows on each side. Good results shows the use of a moving Y-shaped trellis with the ability to change the angle of inclination.

When installing trellises on large plantations, it should be taken into account that on remontant varieties grown for the autumn harvest, such a structure is installed temporarily. It has to be removed to completely mow the shoots.

Height and other dimensions

How tall should a raspberry trellis be? The optimal support height is 1.8–2.5 m. It is suitable for structures of any type. When choosing supports, you need to ensure that they are stable.

The distance between load-bearing elements usually ranges from 75 cm to three meters. It is chosen depending on:

• reliability, height and thickness of the selected material for supports;
• row length;
• method of tying bushes;
• elasticity of tensioned wires.

Raspberries are tied in two places at different heights. There are several options. The scheme is chosen based on the characteristics of the raspberry variety. Most often this is done this way: the first row is tied at a height of about a meter, the second - 1.5–1.70 cm (for tall varieties). Or use the following scheme: the first row is at a height of 50 cm, the second is 1.2–1.5 m (for medium-sized varieties).

How to make it yourself

The following materials are used as supports:

• wooden beams and bars;
• pipe cuttings:
• fittings

Having chosen the type of support, we begin marking the area. You need to decide at what distance the supports will be installed. Then they proceed directly to installation.

1. The ends of the wooden blocks must be tarred or treated with special impregnations to prevent rotting of the material in the soil. The diameter of wooden posts is at least 15 cm. Metal in contact with the soil is also better treated to reduce corrosion.
2. For T-shaped and Y-shaped trellises, first install supports of the appropriate shape.
3. They dig holes. A drill or shovel is used to install the supports.
4. The wire is pulled in two rows. In small areas it can be replaced with reinforced twine. But then the distance between the supports should be minimal.

The bottom row of wire is needed in the first year on any variety to protect the plantings from strong winds; tying up the shoots is usually required. In subsequent years, everything depends on the variety and agricultural technology.

Removable trellis device

For remontant raspberries grown only for autumn harvest, a T-shaped trellis is most convenient. They install it a little differently.

1. In the center of the row with raspberry plantations, holes are dug 80–100 cm deep. The diameter of the holes is chosen based on the diameter of the future supports. Usually it is about 12 cm.
2. Cuttings of pipes are inserted into the holes in the ground. Plastic and metal will do. This will prevent the soil from crumbling.
3. Screwed to poles 1.8–2.0 m high cross beams 40–50 cm long for tensioning the wire.
4. The prepared supports are inserted into the pits.
5. After harvesting, the trellis is removed. It can be stored until spring. And at this time the plantation is being mowed down. Small raspberries can be cut out by hand without removing the trellis.

Video

The video shows the simplest trellis for raspberries:

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Artem Levsha 04/09/2014 | 5740

In order for the harvest to be rich and the plants to feel great in the ground, it is necessary to choose the right place for the future raspberry garden and conduct proper landing seedlings.

For the future raspberry garden, you need to choose a lighted, windless place. Raspberries will grow on it for about 10 years. Then it must be removed from this territory and returned to its original place no earlier than after 4 years.

The soil for raspberry plants needs to be permeable, with a good supply of nutrients. It should be free of perennial weeds. Best options will become loams (light and medium), sandy loams with a large amount of humus and a slightly acidic reaction (with a pH of 5.5-6).

It is best if the predecessors of the raspberries in the selected area were vegetables, legumes, or the soil was kept under black fallow. In addition, raspberries planted in place of chokeberries, gooseberries or currants will feel good.

Preparing the planting hole

The best time to plant raspberries is autumn (late September - early October) or early spring (before the buds wake up). Planting is carried out in pre-created grooves or holes. If raspberries are planted in the fall, then holes (width 50-60 cm, depth 40 cm) are dug 2-3 weeks before planting. When digging holes, it is important to separate the top fertile layer of soil from the bottom.

If the site is well fertilized, then only the top layer of soil should be added to the hole when planting. If the soil in the selected area is poor, then it is worth adding approximately 10 kg of compost (humus), 100 g of granulated superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate. The best potassium fertilizer counts wood ash: about 400 g is taken per hole. Pre-selected fertilizers should be thoroughly mixed with fertile soil. Such a prepared pit can be left alone until spring.

If sandy soil predominates on the site, then clay, peat chips or silt (a couple of buckets) should be added to the fertilizers. In the case of peat soils, 2-4 buckets of sludge are already taken.

Spring worries

By spring the soil is landing pit often thickens. Therefore, before planting the seedlings, it must be loosened. During planting, the roots of the seedling must be directed in different directions, sprinkled with a mixture of equal parts of peat crumbs and fertile soil. During planting, the raspberry seedling must be shaken slightly so that the soil fills all the spaces between the roots. It is also important that plants should be planted deeper than they were planted previously.

After planting, the soil around the raspberry bush needs to be compacted, making a small hole and watering the plant with 5-6 liters of water. Afterwards, the ground must be mulched with forest litter, rotted straw, humus, sawdust or peat chips. The mulch layer should be 5-6 cm. After a few days, you need to repeat watering, and then proceed depending on weather conditions.

The planted raspberry seedling needs to be pruned. When the plant has well-developed buds on the stem and a vegetative bud located on the rhizome, the stems should be shortened to about 40 cm. If on the bark planting material If the fungal disease is noticeable, the buds are dead, but the roots are healthy, then the stems of such plants are cut off at the very surface of the soil. It is important not to leave cut branches on the site.

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