BATH EQUIPMENT (SHRINKED)

WALL SET

Our clients are offered inexpensive basic equipment for shrink-fit construction, which allows the first initial stage put the frame of the bathhouse under the roof, and then begin finishing work. If necessary, the company’s specialists will calculate the cost of additional options.

The cost of this bath is calculated taking into account classic sawn timber 150 x 150 mm and profiled timber 145 x 145 mm. At the client's request, the bathhouse frame can be built from larger timber. For the construction of timber baths, in most cases, profiled timber 145 x 145 mm is used. Baths built with timber wall thicknesses of 195 mm (200 mm) or more are ideal for year-round use as country cottages. Increasing the thickness of timber walls will reduce the heat loss of the building, and will also give the bathhouse an elegant appearance. appearance. Each of the proposed types of timber has its own advantages. For example, beams processed mechanically using special equipment, they obtain a geometrically even shape from the outside and inside and have a smooth surface, which will significantly reduce the cost of finishing work in the future. IN modern construction Dry timber is increasingly being used chamber drying, the properties of which allow you to begin interior or exterior decoration immediately after assembling the log house.

For the manufacture of bathhouse sets from timber, environmentally friendly wood from the Kostroma region is used.

The wall kit price includes:

Design drawings and specifications of the bathhouse (AR, KR);
- production of timber for construction. Northern forest, Kostroma region;
- waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt;
- embedded (tying) row of timber 150 x 150 mm;
- treatment of the embedded crown with an antiseptic;
- external, main walls made of timber 150 x 150 mm (corrugated timber 145 x 140 mm);
- internal walls made of timber 150 x 100 mm (corrugated timber 145 x 90 mm);
- pediments chopped from timber 150 x 150 mm (profiled timber 145 x 140 mm);
- ceiling height - 2 m 20 cm (clean, after shrinkage);
- beam connection " warm corner";
- assembly of the log house on wooden dowels according to technology;
- inter-crown insulation - jute fabric;
- floor joists - made of timber 150 x 100 mm in increments of 0.6 m;
- ceiling beams - made of timber 150 x 100 mm with a pitch of 0.6 m;
- compensation jacks under the terrace, porch;
- delivery and unloading of the log bathhouse and components;
- installation of the house kit by an experienced team (Russians);
- quality control of materials and work.

ROOF

Basic package includes installation roofing system and covering the roof with temporary roofing (roofing felt).

Rafters made of edged boards 150 x 50 mm in increments of 0.6 m;
- installation of rafters is carried out on sliding supports;
- crossbar for stops made of edged boards 150 x 50 mm;
- roof sheathing from edged boards 150 x 20 mm;
- roofing material (roofing felt).

At the request of the client, we can perform roofing work using metal tiles, soft bitumen roofing or ondulin.

FOUNDATION

The foundation is not included in the base price!

When building baths from timber, they are used Various types foundations. The choice of foundation type may depend not only on financial costs, but also on the individual characteristics of the area. In some cases, it is necessary to conduct engineering geological surveys, during which the properties of the soil are studied and the location for construction is determined. Timely geology of the site also allows you to avoid mistakes at the initial stage during design and select the appropriate type of foundation for the structure.

Stages of construction of a bathhouse made of timber

Foundation installation

The foundation for a bathhouse should be selected based on the characteristics of the building site and the size of the log house. The choice of foundation for any structure should be approached thoroughly, and its installation should be entrusted to experienced specialists. Violations of the technology for constructing the base of the bathhouse can lead to additional financial costs. The most suitable for the construction of a timber bath are strip monolithic foundation, pile-screw and foundation on reinforced concrete piles. Our construction teams can build any type of foundation with high quality.

Assembling a log bathhouse

The assembly of a log bathhouse from timber (profiled timber) can be done at any time of the year. For the construction of baths, timber 150 x 150 mm or profiled timber 145 x 145 mm are often used. If necessary, our company can build a larger bathhouse from timber. Jute fabric is used as inter-crown insulation during the construction of baths. Our company also invites you to order a log bathhouse made from chamber-dried timber, which is currently increasingly used in private country construction.

Roofing

Currently, a variety of roofing materials are used in the construction of timber baths. The most popular are metal tiles, ondulin and soft tiles. The proposed basic configuration for the construction of a bathhouse includes a temporary roofing with roofing felt. If the customer wishes, the company’s specialists can produce installation work using the most modern roofing materials, immediately after assembling the bathhouse frame. The cost and timing of the work depend on the complexity of the design.

Shrinkage of a log bathhouse

Log house of a bath from ordinary or profiled timber natural humidity Before finishing work begins, it must settle and shrink. During the shrinkage process of a log house, the wood shrinks naturally. In addition, a slight decrease in the linear dimensions of structural elements may occur. The technological break after assembling the frame until finishing can be several months. Modern technologies wood processing allows you to make a bath set from chamber-drying timber.

Bathhouse finishing on a turnkey basis

The final stage of construction is the final finishing of the bathhouse on a turnkey basis. The cost of finishing work directly depends on the materials used. During the internal and exterior finishing The walls are sanded and painted. The finishing process also includes: installation and insulation of ceilings and floors; production of door casings and window openings, their installation and cashing. After installing windows and doors, hemming the roof overhangs and installing the drainage system, you can use the constructed timber bathhouse for its intended purpose.

OUR ADVANTAGES

For a bathhouse, it is quite difficult to come up with something better than a pitched roof: simple in design, easy to implement and unpretentious in terms of roofing materials. And it fits perfectly into any landscape design, favorably differing from the neighboring towers.

But you cannot approach the construction of such a roof with carelessness - there are rules regarding the construction of such a structure. Just be a little architect, think through everything correctly - and your bathhouse will be pitched roof It will be the envy of everyone!

The fashion for country castles with columns and spiers is long behind us: today more and more lean-to stylish buildings are being built in the very different designs: houses, garages, gazebos, and even Russian steam rooms. Moreover, projects with them are often so unusual that they catch the eye even from a height, and certainly stand out from the gray mass of traditional “huts”.

Sometimes such roofs are built in such a way that at one corner they seem to fall into the ground, like a wedge, and sometimes in such a way that an entire garden is placed on the roof with an almost imperceptible slope. After all, a bathhouse is not a home, and it’s much more pleasant and economical to experiment with it!

Here is one of the most popular models for constructing such baths:

The main advantage of a pitched bathhouse roof is that it drains rain and melt water only in one direction - exactly where you drain it. Convenient, isn't it? And now there will be no need to install serious drainage around the foundation! And many, many more advantages.

But if you think that because of such a choice you will have to give up summer room upstairs (and where will the guests spend the night now? Where to put the billiards?), then you are mistaken. The attic under a pitched roof is bright, spacious and original. At least with one normal high wall, where skylights will fit perfectly. And no dark and scary area under the ridge, like a gable roof. Only light!

Stage I. Design

So, let's move on to design. Of all existing roofs single-pitched has the simplest design. This is where the builder’s eye rests: everything is simple and clear, like the sky above your head. Whether you create a project for a pitched roof of a house yourself, or hire a specialist, the following points should be considered in it:

1. General sketch of a building with a roof.
2. Carrying out separate viewing points of such a roof: in front, behind the house and on the sides.
3. Full calculation of complex loads from snow, weight rafter system And roofing.
4. Drawing up sections of all important individual sections of the roof.
5. A detailed diagram of the important components of the roof and the junction of the roofing covering to the rafter system.
6. Description of all difficult places, especially the junction of the rafter system with load-bearing floors and walls.
7. Scheme of drainage and snow clearers (or electrical cable).

Moreover, as practice shows, main role The final cost of the roof is determined not so much by the footage as by the presence of special elements: valleys, ridges, end strips and the like. This is why a pitched roof is beneficial in this regard as well.

Stage II. Construction of foundation and walls

The construction process itself small bathhouse with a pitched roof it looks like this:

But in practice it’s like this:

As you can see, due to their low weight, no serious foundation is built for such baths. But, if your bathhouse has at least three or four rooms, think about a more solid foundation:

Stage III. Roof construction

For a pitched roof, the simplest option is wooden frame. Simple, cheap and affordable to repair. But metal rafters, which are strong and durable, are also quite applicable. The only main thing is to prevent them from corrosion. But in both the first and second cases, you need to choose the right roof angle and the complexity of the roof trusses.

Selecting the roof angle and height

The angle of inclination is chosen not only for aesthetic or economic reasons. It is determined by the roof covering material, snow and wind load and other important factors. Particular attention should be paid to snow, which accumulates much more on a pitched roof than on a gable roof. And also to the wind.

So, if the winds in your area are especially strong, then it is better not to extend the rafter beams beyond the wall - in order to reduce the overall windage of the roof. And to drain rainwater, secure parapets from sheet metal. Even in the most severe storm, in this case the wind will only tear off the parapets, which are completely replaceable, you will agree.

When building a bathhouse, the easiest way is to create an angle of inclination of the roof by different heights walls: we just build one higher, the other lower. Next, all that remains is to lay the floor beams and organize the sheathing.

And having decided on the angle of the roof, you can begin to make rafters. A special template will help you with this:

Choosing the shape and design of rafters

Now let's decide how you will arrange the slope of the roof - the difference in the height of the walls or additional rafter elements.

In the first case, it is enough to add a couple of blocks or logs, and you will get one higher wall, the upper edge of which will also serve as a ridge. The advantage of this design is that there is no need to equip the attic, and the room will be a little warmer. And the rafter system will be as simplified as possible - just a pair of rafter legs thrown between the walls.

In the second case, you will have to make rafters in the form of closed triangular trusses. More will work here building material, and achieving the required strength is a little more difficult. But in the vertical part of the rafter system, which will extend the height of the wall, you can easily make small windows or arrange ventilation holes. There will be no need to cut windows directly into the blocks! For a garage and similar outbuildings, such a roof is an excellent option.

Selecting the rafter section and the length of the rafter beams

But in total, no matter what kind of pitched roof it is, the length of the rafter leg should not exceed 6 meters. Otherwise, you will have to strengthen this element, otherwise such a roof will be dangerous. Why is that? All wood that is sold in the form of bars is always sawn to a maximum of 4 and 6 meters.

Most often, layered trusses are made for a single-pitched bathhouse roof. Here the rafters rest on two main points - load-bearing walls. The total weight of the roof is small, and therefore the load will also be insignificant. But the maximum distance between such walls should not exceed 6 meters, otherwise beyond this limit the strength of the rafter system will drop by 5 times. If the distance is more than 6 meters, it means that in the middle of the roof it will be necessary to make an additional support - a purlin that will rest against interior wall Houses.

But for a bathhouse made of timber or logs, the fastening of the rafters to the walls must be made sliding. The fact is that such walls always “sit down” over time, quite noticeably, and it is bad if the rafter system is closed and geometrically indestructible. As a result, tension will arise throughout the entire rafter system and the first cracks will appear.

Here's what it looks like:

Selecting the complexity level of roof trusses

Based on this, decide whether you need additional reinforcing elements in the rafters: struts or racks. The point is that they allow you to use rafter legs smaller diameter than if you simply fastened three beams together into a truss. Of course, this makes the construction of a pitched roof more complicated, but the structure itself is more reliable, economical and lightweight. But for walls made of the same blocks, this is important. That is why such structural elements are also called unloading elements.

If necessary, trusses are reinforced with additional struts and struts. The more such elements, the stronger the roof, but its cost also increases. As well as the amount of carpentry work:

If the span is large, and the bathhouse itself also includes a garage, then the rafter system must be built of such complexity:

Roof energy saving issue

The cube is considered the lowest in terms of heat loss. This applies to both the room and the building as a whole: the more compact the geometry, the less heat is lost, and the more complex the architectural form, the more. It's simple: the larger the area of ​​the planes, the more thermal energy goes through them. A gable roof in this regard, it is not the best option.

But there's something else. Usually, you don’t want to spend as much money on building your own bathhouse as on building a whole country house. Not true? So, all over the world it is becoming fashionable to make the roof of individual rooms (especially the veranda and summer bedroom) completely transparent, made of light corrugated polycarbonate!

For the construction of a pitched bathhouse roof, polycarbonate is one of the most best options. If we take into account the fact that in Russia pitched roofs are installed mainly only on small buildings, such as a workshop or a sauna, then no one wants to build a foundation for them that is too serious. In the field budget construction the main task is to build the same steam room economically, but at the same time strong and durable. And polycarbonate, as one of the lightest options, is ideal for constructing a roof on fragile block or frame walls.

What could be better than a clear sky above your head in a relaxation room, a sauna loft or an attached gazebo with a barbecue? But this is not only an aesthetic moment! If you have ever built anything on your own site with your own hands, then you know what a hassle it is to conduct electricity from the house. And moles in the ground chew through the cable, and the wind breaks it, and this idea is not cheap. And with a transparent polycarbonate roof, you won't have to think about it at all!

For example, during construction small saunas It’s fashionable to make an entire wall transparent:

The more glazing in a house, bathhouse or similar buildings, the better. More light, a pleasant atmosphere, a cozy and light design... For modern architects, glazing is one of the most important points.

A square meter of window always costs at least twice as much as a square meter of an ordinary blank wall, not to mention the heat loss, which is 5-8 times higher than the loss through the wall. Therefore, large or frequent windows in one wall reduce the entire effect of warm walls to almost zero. That's why in Europe it's common to do fewer windows and the northern façade is completely blank. But the main task of the bathhouse walls is to keep warm!

In addition, in bathhouse construction they always strive to create an atmosphere of comfort and relaxation, and to move as far as possible from the style of dark and stuffy offices. But a polycarbonate pitched roof in a house is a way out of the situation! Transparent sky above your head, minimal heat loss, no need for insulation and other advantages! Why give them up? Moreover, in technical terms everything is quite simple.

At least with a pitched roof in a bathhouse, you can use this trick by replacing traditional windows with polycarbonate glazing of the facades:

And believe me, it is much cheaper and more convenient than installing entire double-glazed windows, as in this project:

The strength and impact resistance of polycarbonate is primarily affected by the weight and thickness of the sheets. The more, the greater the strength and overall impact resistance. And the higher the noise absorption and thermal insulation rates.

Any metal fasteners you use must be corrosion resistant. The fact is that polycarbonate retains heat too well. It lets the sun's rays through, but does not let out invisible infrared rays (heat, essentially). For comparison, touch the window sill on a sunny day - it is warm, but the glass is cold, although, in theory, it should have warmed up first. Or pour in plastic bottle water and place it under the sun - the liquid will quickly heat up, but it will take a long time to cool down.

The same thing happens with any transparent roof, under which it is always much warmer than outside. As a result, polycarbonate roofing sheets turn out to be colder than the air beneath them, and all the invisible water vapor always rushes upward towards them. And it settles in the form of drops of water directly on the metal mount, which, in turn, is even colder than polycarbonate. Such is physics! This process is called condensation, and for fasteners it results in rapid corrosion and oxidation, unless you take anti-corrosion accessories.

The only problem that arises with this type of roofing is insulation. No, the problem is not at all that polycarbonate is something special and you can’t put insulation under it. And it’s not that the transparent sheets will reveal an unattractive view, and the light transmittance itself will be lost. The problem is that absolutely all modern insulation materials are designed to be protected from sunlight.

For curiosity's sake, pick up a few promotional samples from the store and place them under glass in the open air. In a month it will all turn to dust! Because such materials initially do not have resistance to ultraviolet radiation - after all, they are tightly closed under the skin. But polycarbonate retains heat even better than triple-glazed windows, and therefore there is no point in insulating it at all.

Manufacturing and installation of Mauerlat

At the end of the walls, rafters are usually fastened in the following ways:

1. Directly to the wall using anchor bolts or screws.
2. To the Mauerlat using pins, screws or metal corners.

Rafter trusses are attached to load-bearing walls using a mauerlat - a 5x5 cm beam or a board 4-5 cm thick. But the mauerlat needs to be fastened to the wall itself, and only then the trusses must be installed and secured on it. To fasten the Mauerlat to the wall, use anchor bolts, twisted wire or pins.

Try to take it for the Mauerlat whole board or timber. If you don’t find any, then for a small building, like a bathhouse, you can use trimmings 1 meter long. Just be sure to seal the gaps between them with a sealing solution. And if your bathhouse is not at all miniature, but with additional rooms or even a second floor, then be sure to make a Mauerlat reinforced belt:

Assembly of the entire structure

Now let's work on the beams. We treat cut and well-dried timber of the same length with a special treatment: antiseptic and fireproof.

To make roof trusses, use softwood timber. These have the necessary elasticity and resistance to compression and stretching. But absolutely all bars must be free of knots - such places are denser in structure and crack at the first load. This is naturally bad for the entire rafter system.

After all this, we now attach the rafter legs, which will become the basis for the sheathing. To do this, we place one edge on the lower part of the roof, and the second on a vertical rafter or higher wall. So, step by step:

• Step 1. On finished walls baths we lay inclined beams every 60-70 cm.
• Step 2. We attach these rafter beams to the mauerlat using anchors or “slippers”.
• Step 3. Now we put it on these rafters simple boards under your feet to move around on them. Then you will remove them.
• Step 4. We nail the sheathing slats at a strict right angle to the rafters, using 5x5 cm bars for this. We expect that the roofing covering will have to protrude beyond the edges of the slats by 15-20 cm.
• Step 5. Lay waterproofing: film or membrane. Be sure to overlap 10 cm. We glue all joints with construction tape, and fasten the insulation itself with a stapler to the sheathing.
• Step 6. Install the selected roofing covering.

The sheathing has two main tasks: to give rigidity to the roof truss system and to serve as a basis for laying roofing material. To do this, use 50x50 bars or 150x20 mm boards.

Here is a lightweight sheathing on small roof baths:

And a more complex one in a bathhouse with a good foundation:

The sheathing must be fastened from the top corner. The most practical distance is 30 cm; this is easy both for installing the rafter system itself and for securing the roofing. It is important to use all wooden elements of the roof dry, otherwise later, during operation, they will turn over. Believe me, there will be a lot of problems with this.

And finally, no matter how simple you make the pitched roof, be sure to lay moisture insulation on the sheathing under the roofing material. These are special films that are resistant to stretching and exposure to ultraviolet rays.

Stage IV. Interior and exterior finishing

As for the insulation of such a bathhouse, if there is an attic in the pitched roof, then lay the insulation in it directly over the ceiling. Both ordinary glass wool and modern ecowool are suitable for this purpose. Insulate the walls and ceiling according to traditional scheme:

If you have built a good, durable bathhouse, but it doesn’t look much like a Russian steam room, don’t despair. Today, many types of finishing are practiced, the most “Russian” of which is slab:

That's all the trouble!

For a bathhouse, a pitched roof is most suitable. After all, this is, in fact, the most a budget option. And the installation of such a roof does not require special knowledge and skills. But this is the case when our structure has an area of ​​no more than 15 square meters. The larger the surface, the higher the cost; additional supports and beams will have to be installed.

How to install a pitched roof for large areas

When calculating the roof surface, it is necessary to calculate the length of the overhangs.

Next, you need to select the desired angle of inclination. It will depend, first of all, on the region, and secondly, on how much precipitation falls there per year. IN steppe zone 8 to 20 degrees is enough. Where there is a lot of precipitation, the slope is from 30 to 45 degrees. The steeper the roof, the faster precipitation rolls off without stopping.

The slope will also depend on the roofing material used:

• - 8-20 degrees.
• - from 25 degrees.
• - 5 degrees is enough.

The slope angle is usually called the difference from the height of the walls. Having chosen the height of the walls, one of them will need to be increased in height depending on the angle that is required.

Another important condition- . It depends on how often you use the sauna. In the case when the structure is used throughout the year, the attic needs to be insulated. For a bathhouse that operates only in summer, insulation is not required.

On the roof for the bathhouse, beams must be installed on the attic floors. Their parameters will directly depend on the material you choose for the roof. In addition, the width of the roof also plays a role. If the roofing material is large and heavy, beams of large cross-section will be required. The overlap pitch is approximately 60 cm or one meter.

Once you have installed the attic floor, you need to start installing the rafters. Their step will be 60-120 centimeters. This also depends on the roofing material and precipitation. With a large amount of precipitation and the severity of the roofing material, the pitch changes. For slate, the steps are minimal, since asbestos-cement materials have a large mass.

Most often, the beams in the attic and the rafter system are connected to each other. They are fastened with staples resembling the letter “P”. Sometimes they are made from reinforcement. You can also use wooden spikes for these purposes, driving them into special holes.

Single-pitch roofs differ in design. This can be clearly seen in the figure below.

For a timber or log bathhouse, the upper crown may have a special role - support for the beams. In stone structures, it is necessary to put a beam or mauerlat on the brick. They will connect the rafter system and the frame of the building. Waterproofing is laid under the Mauerlat.

The ends of the beams are laid in special, cut holes, the depth of which is equal to ½ the height of the beam. At the point of contact with the Mauerlat, you need to create a layer of waterproofing using roofing felt. To make the beams stronger, they are secured by installing spacers, lintels, and ties.

Lathing

When roof frame mounted, proceed to the sheathing. The distance between its elements will depend on the size and weight of the coating material:

After completing the installation of the roof frame, it is necessary to install sheathing to secure the roofing material. The sheathing pitch depends on the type of roofing material:

• If it is made of bitumen or ceramic tiles, then the sheathing is made continuous using sheet moisture-resistant materials.
• If the roof has the form of sheets, then sparse lathing is used. It is mounted from unedged boards, from 25 to 40 millimeters. Wave slate is laid on a 50x120mm beam, in increments of 80 centimeters to one meter.
• It is better to lay heavy roofing on metal profiles.
• To increase service life, you need to treat all elements with an antiseptic.
  We work with roofing materials
• The material is laid from below, overlapping, secured with fasteners. Don't forget about waterproofing materials! If the roof is covered with roofing felt or roofing felt, then at least three layers are needed.

We lay the soft roof from the top. The parchment is glued with mastic, the sheets are overlapped (from 10 to 12 cm). Can be nailed with special nails. The roofing material is also glued to the mastic. Any bubbles that appear in the air must be released. Having lowered the roofing material downwards, it needs to be brought under the roof and arrived at the sheathing. To avoid further leakage, be sure to follow an important condition - overlapping laying, using allowances.

Frame bath with a pitched roof - another step-by-step educational technology for building a bathhouse. Photo project for DIY construction. This project is a cross between a small bathhouse for a summer residence, with the only caveat that this is a budget version of a bathhouse that is not inferior in functionality to a normal full-fledged bathhouse, except perhaps without a pool.

Frame bathhouse with a pitched roof - foundation

For such a bathhouse with a pitched roof, absolutely any foundation is suitable, be it pile, or. Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic. Let it be a shallow tape. After constructing the foundation, we lay the beds as shown in the photo. We will use a 150×25 mm board.

Professional builders will now be stunned. The next step will be making the overlap. We will make the ceiling from 50×50 mm timber. I found this technology for constructing floors on the Internet, after thinking about it, I realized that this technology has a right to life, but since I have not tried it, there is nothing more to say. Therefore, I am sharing it with you, so to speak, at my own peril and risk, but I can say that I will definitely try it. I liked it because the speed of construction of such a ceiling breaks all records. Well, for the rest, I can say that you can get by with a regular ceiling by making it yourself. And so, we lay the timber on the bed, leaving 5 centimeters on each side of the bed.

From above, across, we lay another row of bars. I would like to add that you can lay osb or 20 boards on the beds, thereby closing the underground space. And each layer of timber can be insulated mineral wool, thereby creating a fairly warm floor.

We lay the third layer of timber. Although I think maybe two will be enough for a bath. But as they say, the cake should be made of three layers, so we will not deviate from technology.

We lay 50×150 mm along the upper perimeter. board and firmly fasten everything together.

Then we lay the floor. It is better to lay the floor for a bathhouse from boards, but in principle you can also use osb with a thickness of 12 mm. in two layers, laying it in a checkerboard pattern.

Frame bath - walls

Let's start construction frame walls with your own hands. For ease of perception, I will assemble the walls standing up; in life, it is better to assemble the baths on the finished floor, and then, with the help of a friend, install them in place.

Assembling the front wall of the bathhouse. We will assemble it from a 50×150 mm board. or 50×100 mm. I will use 50x100 mm. I think this should be quite enough for such a bath. The height of the front wall will be 250 cm. We will cut the racks at 260-270 cm and nail a board to the bottom of the racks. We'll nail a board to the side on top of the racks, then you'll understand why.

We assemble the back wall using the same principle. Its height will be 220 cm. We will cut the racks to 240-250 cm.

Assembling the side wall. Using the upper side board we set the slope we need. In this case, we will have 30 cm between the front and back walls.

After we have aligned everything, we simply take and cut off the excess on the racks.

As a result, we get this design. We assemble the last side wall according to the previous one, as if using a pattern.

Then we screw the top boards onto the walls. remove the side ones. We install the walls in place, check the evenness of the structure with a building level, and then fasten them together thoroughly, not forgetting to screw the walls to the floor. The next step we will do jib. There are no photos with the jibs, I forgot. I think I'm sorry. The jibs will add substantial rigidity to this structure, so we will not neglect them. The jibs are installed with the edge of the board from the top of the corner to the bottom of the middle of the building.

Depending on the linear dimensions of the bathhouse and the wishes of the developer, the roof in the bathhouse can be single or gable, flat or sloping. The most commonly used option is inclined gable roof, in their own way operational characteristics it is suitable for all climatic zones of our country; under such roofs it is possible to arrange residential attic spaces.

Gable roofs can be layered (often used on buildings more than six meters wide) and hanging. To increase stability, the layered roof type has additional rafter supports, hanging rafter systems have support only on the mauerlats or ceiling beams (this option is rarely used), and in the upper part of the rafters they are held by crossbars. For example, let's take the most common option - hanging gable roofs.

Hanging rafters Hanging rafters spans from 13 to 17 m
Types of layered rafters

Types of hanging rafters Design diagram of hanging rafters Options for cornice assembly solutions

Let's take into account that the dimensions of the bathhouse are 5x5 meters, the bathhouse is made of sawn timber, the top row acts as a mauerlat. The roof is gable, hanging, without insulation.

Before starting the manufacture of rafters, you need to make preliminary calculations, with their help we will determine the angle of inclination and parameters of the rafter legs.

The following loads act on the rafter system:

• permanent. Weight of the rafter system, sheathing and roofing. The weight of the roofing covering depends on the specific roofing material and is indicated by the manufacturer;
• temporary. Wind and snow loads, worker weight;
• spontaneous. Earthquakes, hurricanes, etc. Natural loads are not taken into account during calculations of the rafter system in our country due to the low probability of their occurrence.

When calculating the thickness and width of the rafters, you need to take into account the sum of the maximum values ​​of all types of loads. In order to make the calculation technology clearer, you need to understand a little about the loads acting on each individual roof unit.

The lower part of the rafter legs sits on the mauerlats; the assembly must absorb vertical and lateral loads. The crossbars only work to break and absorb horizontal loads. The upper (ridge) part of the rafter legs must absorb horizontal compression forces. Rafter spans bend under load. We hope that this knowledge will help you choose the most reliable fastening methods architectural elements in nodes.

If the weight of the roofing material is indicated by the manufacturer, then the wind and snow loads must be calculated independently.

Indicators depend on the maximum depth of snow cover in each region. By map snow loads the specific area of ​​residence is determined and the maximum force is determined using the table.

Table of correction factors A – for open areas. B – for terrain with obstacles.

The region of residence is determined by the map, and the table is used to determine correction factor, depending on the height of the bath and its location.

To determine the load, you need to multiply the standard value by a correction factor.

For the Moscow region, rafter parameters can be found in the table.

Practical advice: if it is difficult for you to make calculations yourself, take the dimensions of the rafter system on existing buildings of a similar type. During calculations, an inclination angle of 20° was assumed.

Instructions for manufacturing a gable rafter system

First, some tips on choosing material. For rafter legs, you can take boards 50x150 mm, the pitch between the rafters is 90 centimeters, the slope angle is 20°. Select only quality material, without deep cracks and bends.

It is very important - do not allow even healthy knots at the joints. To select a rafter system, you will need to carefully inspect the lumber; workpieces should be taken of increased length, taking into account the cutting of unsuitable sections from the ends.

Use only the highest quality materials for rafters

Maximum amount preparatory work must be done on a flat piece of land; ready-made structures should be lifted onto the roof for fastening.

Temporary fixation of the rafter system should be done with various substandard boards, they also need to be lifted to the roof in advance.

Step 1. Check the Mauerlat parameters. Check the parallelism of the opposite bars of the Mauerlat; the deviation in parallelism should not exceed ±2÷3 cm. Make sure that the Mauerlat fixing pins are installed correctly and at the required distances. Check that they are vertical.

Step 2. Making rafter legs. For the size of our bathhouse, six pairs of rafter legs are enough.

Important: if you have to do a large number of identical elements, be sure to make one template. Each individual marking produces small errors, which in total can add up to a significant amount. In addition, using a template significantly speeds up the work process.

For the rafter legs template, take 20x100 mm edged boards approximately 3 meters long. At the top, connect them overlapping with one nail (the knot should be movable), nail a horizontal section of the board to one board, it will serve as a template for the crossbar. The distance of the crossbar from the ridge part is within 40÷50 centimeters. Fix the crossbar on only one board; it is nailed to the second after selecting the angle of inclination of the rafter legs.

Lift the template onto the roof and temporarily place it at the intended location of the rafters. Change the angle of inclination and the amount of offset, carefully ensuring that the ridge is located exactly in the middle of the bathhouse. We found the optimal place - nail the crossbar to the second board, strengthen the fastening of the boards and the ridge part with a few more nails.

Again, place the prepared template on the Mauerlat and mark the location of the rafter connection. You can connect them different ways, we chose the simplest one - using a support bar and metal corners.

Attach the strip to the template in place of the support bar.

Step 3. Along the edges of the bathhouse (in the place of the gables), nail vertical bars 50x50 mm.

The height of the bars should be equal to the height of the rafter system; check their verticality, stretch a strong rope or thread between them. Now a very important job - checking the template along the entire length of the bath. Install it in increments of about one meter and look at the slope and location of the support bar. It goes without saying that the ridge part should be along the thread. Dimensional problems within one centimeter were discovered - no problem, these irregularities will be eliminated during the installation of the sheathing under the roofing. If the spread in size is greater, you need to adjust the template in such a way as to achieve its optimal average performance. Everything is fine - carefully remove the template to the ground, if necessary, additionally strengthen all the nodes.

Video - Assembling rafters

Step 4. Place the template on a flat surface and place one rafter leg against it. Pay main attention to the position of the ridge part; if there are knots, cut them off. The overhanging part of the rafters can be leveled at the last moment before installation or after the complete installation of the rafter system.

The rafters in the ridge part can be connected in several ways.

The tenon is the most reliable, but in our case it is not suitable - the boards are too thin. We recommend using a half-tree ridge connection.

It will be easier for you to use this option for connecting the rafters with a stop at an angle of 90°. To avoid displacement on both sides, the assembly must be fixed with metal plates on self-tapping screws, make sure that the screws are not located against each other, place them evenly over the area of ​​the rafter legs.

You can make the top connection even simpler - end-to-end. But this is quite risky; the resulting structure will be too unstable. For climate zones with a warm climate it is still suitable, but if in your zone the snow cover reaches large amounts, and there are often strong gusts of wind, then this method is not recommended.

Step 5. Make marks at the top and bottom of the rafters. In the upper part you need to cut at an angle, the connection will be butt. The cutting line should connect the top and bottom connection points of the template. It is very important - do not cut off two legs symmetrically at once; you need to take a drawing on each leg on the corresponding side. This unit is connected on both sides by metal plates with a thickness of at least 2 mm. Make sure that the screws are not opposite each other; place them as evenly as possible over the area of ​​the rafters.

Step 6. Using the template, determine the place where the rafter leg rests on the mauerlat, and secure the board that rests on the mauerlat in this place. It can be fixed from the bottom of the rafter leg to the edge of the board or from the side. This unit must withstand significant shear forces; use powerful screws or bolts to secure the stop.

Step 7 Place the two prepared rafter legs on a flat place, check their position and the placement of the nodes again with a template. Everything is fine - carefully remove the template from the boards to the side, fix the crossbar in place.

Roof truss components
Assembling a roof truss

Make sure that the upper ends of the rafters rest against each other over the entire cut area. The upper (ridge) node is considered the most loaded, it is subject to the greatest compressive forces. Small gaps can still be trimmed; if there are gaps of more than 3-4 mm, you have made the markings carelessly; you will have to trim the ends again. It is for such unpleasant cases that we recommended taking boards with a reserve length, otherwise we would have to use new material, and this increases the cost of the rafter system.

Fix the crossbar with an overlap to the rafter legs; for fixation, you need to use long bolts or studs, the nuts are tightened on both sides. Two such bolts for each leg are enough.

Do not forget that the crossbar works in compression; do not allow vibrations in the connections. In order to eliminate the risk of cracking of the rafters during installation of hardware, drill holes for them with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the stud (or bolt) by 0.5÷1 mm. The pin should fit into the holes with force. The protruding part of the stud after tightening with nuts must be cut off with a cylindrical grinder (grinder).

Video - How to cut rafters at the right angle and the right size

Step 8 Using the same scenario, prepare and assemble all the remaining rafters. Place them in a stack on top of each other and check the dimensions. Carefully inspect all load-bearing components. If you find problems, fix them immediately, don’t put them off until later. Firstly, it is much more convenient to do this on the ground. Secondly, “later” can be forgotten.

The set of rafter legs is assembled, place it on the roof and begin assembling the rafter system.

Installation of the rafter system

All work must be done with maximum responsibility; violations of technology or poor-quality connections will definitely make themselves felt. Repairs will have to be difficult and expensive.

Step 1. Secure the outer (gable) rafters. Temporarily fix them with scraps of boards. Carefully position each foot at all nodal points, do not rush, check each size. Stretch the ropes along the ridge and sides. It is better to pull the side ropes at the overhangs of the rafters; in this position they are easier to install.

Step 2. Mark on the Mauerlat the installation locations of the remaining rafter legs; the distance between them should be within one meter and the same.

Step 3. Carefully lift each rafter leg in turn, position it along the ropes and temporarily secure it with boards. The boards should arrive both at an angle to each leg and between the already installed rafters.

Step 4. All rafters are pre-installed - check their correct location and start fixing the nodes metal corners and strips with self-tapping screws. Metal thickness is at least 1.5 mm. Do not skimp on the corners; install them on both sides of the rafter legs. As a result, you should have a structure that is resistant to multidirectional loads. Straighten the length of the lower part of the rafter legs; they should protrude beyond the perimeter of the bathhouse by 30–40 centimeters. The dimensions should also be adjusted to fit the tensioned rope.

Metal plates for connecting rafters Rafter fasteners

Step 5. Quite often, inexperienced builders make minor mistakes; during the installation of the rafter system, they have a mutually reinforcing effect. This leads to weakening, the structure weakly resists longitudinal ridge loads, and the rafter system wobbles a little. This problem is solved by installing corner stops made of boards under the outer (gable) legs. The thrust boards, by the way, will later serve as a frame during the cladding of the gables.

Diagram of the racks that are the frame of the pediment and the additional jib

Depending on the type of roofing, the lathing is made. For soft coverings, you need to make a continuous sheathing from plywood, OSB boards or cheap unedged boards. You can also take edged boards, but such sheathing will be very expensive.

How to make a rafter system sheathing

Let's consider two options for sheathing: solid and slatted.

Sheathing type	Description	Illustrations
Lath lathing	Use slats 20x50 mm, you can also take unedged boards. The second option is much better: higher load-bearing characteristics, easier to nail down the roofing. The lathing must be installed from bottom to top; the distance between the slats depends on the specific type of roofing material. For ondulin it is slightly larger; for profiled sheets or metal tiles the distance can be within 40 centimeters. Make two templates to control the distance between the slats, use them along the edges of the slats. At the ridge, nail the sheathing into a bowl; the ridge part and roofing sheets will be fixed into it. From the front side, you need to beat off a straight line with a rope with blue (beating cord). The protruding ends of the slats are cut with a hand or electric saw.
Continuous sheathing	Before starting work, you need to think about the optimal placement of sheets of plywood or OSB. You need to choose their position to minimize the amount of cutting and waste. Take your time, make a plan for the placement of sheets on paper. See how best to place them on the rafter system - along or across. You need to start laying from the bottom; near one of the fronts, immediately align the position of the sheets. If the position does not match slightly, move the sheets; a gap of one centimeter between the sheets does not have a negative effect on the strength and tightness of the roof. On the side of the second gable, the edges of the sheets will also have to be leveled under the rope with blue.

The sheathing is ready, you can start covering the roof with roofing materials.

It is not worth repeating how important the roof of a bathhouse is and what consequences errors during its construction can lead to. Let's give some advice to “beginning” carpenters; this will help them feel calm throughout the entire period of operation of the bathhouse.

The more complex the type of connection of individual elements of the rafter system, the more reliable it is. For example, a tenon joint supports both vertical and horizontal loads, while a lap joint only handles vertical loads.

We described only the most simple ways connections in load-bearing units, it was taken into account that many developers do not have enough experience to make complex connections. For such connections, “feel free” to use additional fasteners (metal plates and corners, homemade wooden supports, etc.). Even if you “degrade” the appearance of the rafter system a little, you will greatly increase its stability. In addition, no one except you will see the roof of the bathhouse from the inside. And everyone will see the emergency situation.

Carefully select lumber for the rafter system. Try to avoid longitudinal connections of short rafters. The tree always dries out/swells a little, which leads to changes in linear parameters. And this, in turn, gradually weakens the connections.

If you have the slightest doubt about the stability of the hanging rafter system, install vertical headstocks, struts, tie-downs, etc. The specific type of additional stops does not really matter, the main thing is that they have a positive effect. An ordinary ridge beam greatly increases the resistance of the rafter system to longitudinal loads.

Two 25 mm thick boards have a bending strength that significantly exceeds the strength of a 50 mm thick board. Of course, with the same width. These are the laws of strength of materials, use them. Connect the boards together using spacers made from scraps of boards of any thickness. By the way, such “double” rafter legs are distinguished by increased stability characteristics. As for the cost of the rafter system, it remains almost unchanged.

Overlapping rafter connection

Self-tapping screws are excellent hardware. But only on one condition - they don’t made in China. These “craftsmen” use very low quality alloys for their manufacture. Even large-diameter substandard hardware has very low physical strength characteristics. It’s easy to check the quality of self-tapping screws - bend it at a right angle; high-quality material should withstand at least three bends. The Chinese ones will crack, at best, on the second try.

If you have never dealt with a roof before, seek help from more experienced friends. It is not necessary to call an “expensive” mother for help; it is enough for your assistant to work as his assistant. And one last thing. Always provide for the possibility of getting under the roof. This could be a hole from the dressing room or an opening window on the pediment. With their help, you can carry out periodic inspections of the condition of the rafter system and roofing. The sooner leaks or problems with roof geometry are detected, the easier and faster it is to fix them.

Roof sheathing (supported by rafters) and gable window
A window will be inserted into the opening. You can get to the roof by placing a ladder


Stairs to the sauna attic

Video - Do-it-yourself roof for a bathhouse

Video - Installation of rafters

Video - Installation of gables

Video - Roof installation (part 1)

Video - Roof installation (part 2)