All boxes of houses in the shape of the letter “L” can be divided into two groups:

1 – the width of the base of the pediments is the same;

2- the width of the base of the gables is different.

The L-shaped roof, depending on this factor, is built in different sequences.

So let's go in order. In this article we will look at the box of a house with the same width of gables (see Fig. 1). These dimensions are shown in blue in the figure. Our house is made of timber. The floor beams are already installed. The rafters will be hanging and resting on the upper crown of the box (mauerlat).

Picture 1

In principle, the rafter system of an L-shaped roof will consist of two gable roofs crashing into each other. How are they calculated? gable roof rafters, we have already seen, so I don’t stop there.

STEP 1: We install temporary posts and a ridge board. They are located strictly in the middle (see Fig. 2):

Figure 2

Temporary jibs supporting the posts in a vertical position are not shown in the figure. We made the racks from boards 50x150 mm, the ridge - 50x200 mm. The rafters will also be made of 50x200 mm boards.

STEP 2: We install the rafters of the slopes. We mark the rafter template exactly as described in the article "Hip roof".

First of all, we install the rafters shown in Fig. 3:

Figure 3

These are rafters on the gables, rafters on the ridge break and rafters in the inner corner of the house box with those opposite them.

How the rafters stand in the inner corner of the house box is also shown in Fig. 4. The indicated dimensions (0.5 m) are the width of the cornice:

Figure 5

STEP 3: We install the corner rafter on the outer corner of the house box. How this is done is described in detail in the article on the hip roof, which I linked to above. There you will also find a description of how the spigots are installed.

STEP 4: We install the corner rafter in the valley (internal corner). It will also consist of two sewn boards with the cross-section of the rafters.

To begin with, let’s fix a small equilateral triangular block in the corner, made, for example, from a 100x100 mm block sawn diagonally (see Fig. 6):

Figure 6

Pull the string between points “A” and “B” (see Fig. 7):

Figure 7

Using a small tool we measure the angle ʺβʺ (see Fig. 8):

Figure 8

We make a template from a small piece of board with the cross-section of the rafters (50x200 mm). First, we file the end at an angle ʺβʺ. Then we apply the resulting blank to the top of the head along the stretched laces and mark the second cut parallel to the ridge board (see Fig. 9):

Figure 9

Using the resulting template, we will mark the upper cuts of the corner rafters. And turning the template “upside down”, we will mark the lower cuts.

In addition to this, we need to determine one more size. Again, apply the template to the top of the head and measure the distance shown in Fig. 10. IN in this example it turned out to be 3 cm:

Figure 10

This is exactly how much we will need to cut off the upper edges of all the boards from which the corner rafter will be sewn (see Fig. 11).

This can be done either with a regular ax or with a chainsaw.

Figure 11

So, to make the first half of the corner valley rafter, we take a board of the required length and saw down the upper and lower ends using a template. We trim our 3 cm along the entire length of the board. Now all that remains is to make a cut in the place where the rafters rest on the mauerlat. To do this, holding the board parallel to the stretched cord, we make markings (see Fig. 12):

Figure 12

The lace in the figure is shown in blue. We measure the distance we need to lower the rafter so that it aligns with the lace. This distance (5 cm) will be the desired cutting depth. Having done it, we put the rafters in place.

The second half of the corner rafter is done in the same way. It is a mirror image of the first. The result is shown in Fig. 13:

Figure 13

STEP 5: To strengthen the corner rafters, we install racks through trusses (see Fig. 14):

Figure 14

Our springs are made of 100x200 timber, as are the floor beams.

STEP 6: We make and install spigots (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

STEP 7: All subsequent steps have already been repeatedly described in previous articles, so I will simply list them: we install tie-downs (we also tie together the corner rafters with tie-downs), if necessary, remove the racks under the ridge board (the rafters will be hanging, we talked about this at the beginning of the chapter) , we sheathe the gables, make sheathing and cornices.

In the next article we will look at how to do L-shaped roof on a house with different widths gables.

I am glad to welcome everyone again to my website! This time I’ll tell you about how we built a multi-gable roof from the very beginning to the very end. The walls of the house were erected at the dacha of the wife's parents. The external size of the house is 9x11. By the way, I note that it seems that the area of ​​a 9x11 house is the same as that of a 10x10 house, but no, the difference is a whole square meter- You can't fool mathematics. The walls of the house are made of foam concrete blocks. All four gables have been erected - accordingly, the roof turns out to be multi-gable. I’ll say right away that if you’re planning to make such a roof with your own hands, it’s better not to do it - you’ll suffer. Better make it normal gable roof and get a bunch of advantages over a multi-gable roof. The only drawback of a double-slope compared to this complex roof This is the exterior of the house. Well, my wife’s parents have been hatching a “project” for their house for a long time, so it is not possible to convince them of anything. The builders announced 150,000 rubles for the work on the construction of this roof. There was no such money and the decision was made to build it ourselves. Three people participated in the construction: Father, son and son-in-law. The time spent on erecting a multi-gable roof is 17 days. Work schedule: seven days a week from 9:00 to 20:00. At the same time, we did not have time to hem the gables from below. Well, more on that another time.

If, despite reading above, you still want such a roof, then you have come to the right place! Below I will tell you and attach photos about the entire construction process. Let's begin.

Before starting work, we have four pediments made of foam blocks:

As you can see, beams and boards are randomly thrown onto the ceiling of the first floor. For ease of installation, it is necessary to put all this in order. It was decided to immediately place the floor beams (beams 100x200) in their places at intervals of 600-800 mm, depending on the width of the first floor partitions:

The beams were laid out, and roofing felt was placed in the places where the beams lay on the walls.

Next, the entire future sheathing (edged board 100x25 mm) was raised onto all the beams. This was necessary in order to make it convenient to work during construction. rafter system. That is, we get a full floor on the second floor. Thanks to this, we are able to use trestles and ladders.

We are preparing to erect the rafters. In order to make it convenient and easy to install the rafters, we decided to install 100x100 mm guide beams. Since the maximum length ordinary timber is 6 meters and the dimensions of our house are 9x11, the cross was sewn into an overlap from 50x100 mm bars. These beams (we called them a cross) will ultimately not have any function in supporting the rafter system, or the entire roof as a whole. I’ll say right away that we thanked ourselves 100 times for this decision, otherwise everything would have been much more complicated. At the crosshairs of the cross, the beams were sawed into the floor of the beam. In this case, the long beam (11 m) is cut from the bottom, and the short beam (9 m) is cut from the top. Before installation, we checked the correctness of the cuts and “assembled” the cross.

To install the cross, we prepared a rafter joint template made along the contour of the pediment bevels:

Using this template, we screwed four support bars 50x100 mm, 200 mm long, to the wall. On these bars we first placed the long beam of the cross, and then the short one. Using stretched ropes from the four tops of the gables, we aligned the cross in a straight line and level, installing a temporary support in the center.

After this, we install murlat on the straight sections of the pediment (house 9x11 meters). This murlat will hold straight and slanting rafters. To install the murlat, even at the stage of pouring the armored belt, two studs with a diameter of 12 mm were preinstalled:

The pediment itself had to be sawed diagonally, since the angle would interfere with the installation of the oblique (bearing) rafters:

We install the first and second rafters along the pediment (size 150x50 mm):

Why are the first rafters installed so close to each other? This is due to the fact that the difference between the width and length of the house is 2 meters - one meter on each side. The sheathing will be extended beyond the pediment by 500 mm. The thickness of the gable wall is 300 mm, for a total of 800 mm. Accordingly, we are missing 200 mm to get that very meter of straight section of the roof. Since the first rafter is attached directly to the gable wall, the second one is needed 200 mm from the wall. Two opposite rafters for roof rigidity are connected by an additional jumper. Also, for the connection, you can immediately nail a beam that will serve as the ceiling (size 150x50 mm):

Next we install the oblique rafter. Its length exceeds the standard 6 meters, so it was sewn into an overlap of two rafters measuring 150x50 mm. The top edge of the rafter lies on the cross:

A cutout (“heel”) is made on the rafter for a more rigid attachment to the murlat:

The lower end of the oblique rafter is adjacent to the side surface of the second rafter. The outer edge of the rafter is located at a distance of 50 cm from the wall:

Next, we install all four oblique rafters. At the top of the roof you get this connection:

After that, we begin to drive all the other rafters. We started making them from bottom to top at a distance of 67 cm from each other. The following are a series of photographs showing how it was all done:

At the top, for rigidity, the rafters are connected by a jumper:

In the center, jumpers are made on the diagonal rafters under each other:

View from the street:

Unfortunately, we spent a lot of time on these rafters, since we had to measure each of the rafters separately and saw them at the right angle for them to fit well with the slanting rafters.

Next, we began to sheathe everything that turned out with lathing. We left 80 mm between the sheathing boards. On the roof ridge, two boards are sewn almost tightly to each other - this is necessary so that later the iron roof ridge can be secured without any problems.

The lathing was extended beyond the wall of the house by more than 50 cm. Subsequently, we marked 50 cm and cut the boards straight with a jigsaw.

To give rigidity to the part of the sheathing that is exposed to the street, we screwed in guide rails. We will then attach the pediments to the same slats from below with iron:

After all the sheathing has been nailed, sawed off, and hemmed with guide rails, you can begin to cover the roof with iron.

In order to save money, the parents decided to cover the roof with ordinary profile iron. In this case, it is possible to use iron scraps obtained as a result of cutting oblique corners. If there were metal tiles, then all the scraps would go into the trash. That is, you get double savings - the difference in price between metal tiles and iron and the absence of scraps going into the trash. Also, for metal tiles, you need to buy special gutters installed on slanting rafters, but they are not very cheap. In our case, instead of gutters, ordinary flat iron was purchased, painted the same color as the color of the profile iron.

Now, in order. We bend the gutters from ordinary iron. For bending, we used a piece of timber from the second floor:

Next, we spread the vapor barrier film on the sheathing, fasten it with a construction stapler and place the bent gutters in the oblique corners of the roof. It looks like this:

To prevent water from flowing into the very central point of the roof ridge, the gutter is bent onto the opposite roof slope; on the opposite side, the gutter is bent onto this roof slope. As a result, we get complete overlap of the upper corner joint and do this in a circle with the exception of the last (fourth) gutter. The fourth gutter is simply cut straight along the ridge:

Don’t forget to release the bottom gutter so that the water in the future does not fall directly onto the sheathing, but flows directly into the gutter:

After installing the gutter, we continue to lay the vapor barrier film on the roof. In this case, you must first lay the film, then lay a row of iron, then again the film, then again a row of iron. This is necessary so that you can calmly walk on the sheathing and conveniently install the iron. If you spread all the film at once, it will be much more difficult to walk on the roof, and not to mention the possibility of damaging the vapor barrier film.

Also, do not forget to install the “frontal” corners before spreading the vapor barrier film:

Next we install the hardware:

Do not forget that the vapor barrier film is thrown over the ridge and subsequently placed on top of the film of the opposite roof slope:

After the iron has been installed on the entire roof, metal ridges can be installed. The most difficult place is the center of the roof top. This place is already covered with gutters, but I would like to cover it well with a ridge. How we did this can be seen in the photo below:

Next I publish other photos of the upper part of the roof:

Well, now what happened:

And finally, photographs of the rafter system of a multi-gable roof from all sides from the inside:

I hope this page will be useful to many!

If you have questions, ask them in the comments - I will be happy to answer them!

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How to mount a pediment: 3 options with insulation and finishing

The term pediment came to us from classical French architecture, and it means the part of the facade of the house that is located between the planes of the roof. Next we will talk about 3 options for such structures, plus you will learn how to quickly and easily calculate, mount, insulate and finish this structural element in a private house with your own hands.

Types of gables in private houses

If you look into books on architecture, you will find more than a dozen different types gables. They are divided according to geometric shapes, but in private homes only 3 types are often used.

Illustrations	Explanations
	Triangular design. The simplest design used on gable roofs. Here, 2 roof slopes and a horizontal cornice below them form a regular triangle.
	Pentagon for the attic. As you can see in the photo, this option is designed for roofs mansard type. Conventionally, a pentagon can be divided into 2 figures - a regular triangle on top and a wide trapezoid below it.
	Trapezoid. This form is the prerogative of hip and floor hip roofs. The trapezoid is less common than the two previous options, although the installation of the pediment here is no more difficult.

Three arrangement options

In private houses, this part of the facade can be equipped with brick or blocks (cinder block, foam block, gas block, etc.), as well as wood. Wooden gables can be assembled from logs or beams and using a frame method.

Option number 1. We build from bricks

Often, brick gables are installed immediately after the wall masonry is completed. The rafters and roofing pie are installed here later.

In general terms, the construction technology is as follows:

• We are considering a gable roof option. First you need to mark the contours of the structure; for this, in the area of ​​the ridge, a pole is rigidly attached to the cornice. The height of the pole should be slightly higher than the ridge;
• Further from the top point of the triangle (ridge), we pull 2 ​​cords. These cords indicate the planes of the future roof and, accordingly, are the boundaries of our pediment;
• Now you can start laying blocks. Masonry is underway in the classic way, the brick is placed on the mortar, and the foam or gas blocks are placed on a special glue;

Do not forget to bandage with reinforcing mesh every 3-4 rows.

• Since any similar blocks have the correct rectangular shape, the edges of the triangle will be stepped;
• In order to make smooth and beautiful edges, there are 2 options: either immediately trim each block with a grinder, or then level it with mortar. The option with a grinder is better. The video below in this article shows the process clearly.

Option No. 2. Log structure

Log structures are installed on log huts or bathhouses. Among the three presented options, the construction of such a pediment is considered the most complex. The logs are trimmed as they are laid out and fastened with dowels, but at the same time it is necessary to attach fixing straps, and this can only be done by a professional.

Option No. 3. Frame structures

Pediments frame type This is the easiest and most affordable option. It is installed after installation of the rafter system. First, it crashes into the opening wooden frame from timber. As a rule, timber is taken with a cross-section of 50 mm.

• The guide battens are first mounted along the perimeter between the rafters, and at the bottom they are attached to the mauerlat;
• Then, in increments of 40 cm, the sheathing bars are placed vertically or horizontally. It all depends on how the sheathing will be attached. If the sheathing is planned to be attached vertically, then we fill the bars horizontally and vice versa;
• If you need to cut a window into a plane, then a separate frame contour is mounted around the perimeter of the window opening;
• Insulation can now be installed on the sheathing and then it goes on finishing. Although sometimes preliminary sheathing is not used, the sheathing is immediately finished with siding or clapboard, and insulation is attached from the inside between the frame bars.

The frame method of arrangement is good not only for its ease of installation and cost. Such gables can be installed on any house, no matter if they are made of wood, brick or any other material.

How to calculate a structure

Calculating such a design is not a tricky matter, but here you can go in two ways. On home page At the top of our website there is a section with calculators, there are programs for calculating different types of roofs, and since the gables are part of the structure, select the desired calculator, enter the data and calculate.

If this method does not suit you for some reason, you can remember school course geometry and calculate everything yourself. It's done something like this:

When calculating the first, the height of the structure is determined. You need to start from the functional purpose of the attic. For a living space, the height should be from 2 m. If the attic is not residential, then 1.5–1.8 m is sufficient.

Keep in mind - the optimal ratio of wall heights one-story house and the height of the pediment is 1:1. If you make it higher, then the roof will dominate and visually “put pressure” on the house, and if lower, then the house will seem “grown” into the ground.

A few words about insulation and finishing

If you are dealing with a capital block gable, then it is better to insulate it from the outside with foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex, Technoplex, etc.). The price of EPPS is higher, but it is more durable and reliable. The insulation boards are secured with umbrella dowels, and decorative or regular putty is applied on top.

IN log cabins There is no need to spoil the gables with additional finishing, they are already beautiful. The only thing that can be done in this case is to line the canopy with a block house (lining decorated to look like a log).

To the gables from wooden beam usually a sheathing is attached and a lining under the timber or siding of a suitable style is sewn onto it. A similar arrangement technique is shown in the video below in this article.

Conclusion

Of course, there are other more complex types of pediments, but only professionals work with them, and those that I showed can be arranged independently. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

September 19, 2017

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The more complex the roof structure, the more interesting it looks when completed. construction work and the more attention it attracts from others. Three-gable roofs fit this description perfectly. The combination of two types of rafter system (the use of hanging and layered rafters) makes its installation complex, requiring careful calculations. But after studying all the rules of the device, you can make a three-gable roof with your own hands.

For a house with a square or polygonal plan, roofs with gables are excellent, especially if there are attic floor or outbuildings different heights. The three-gable roof will increase the roof, providing it with lighting from three directions.

The complexity of organizing such a roof lies in the fact that there is a main difference in the design - the presence of valleys. Among the others distinctive features- the presence of ribs, grooves and gables.

You can consider a three-gable roof as a combination of a hip and a gable roof. As roofing you can choose any material. In particular, the use of transparent roofing is now becoming popular - this option is suitable for organizing lighting in winter garden. But since the entire structure in this case is in free view, it is important to process the material correctly and beautifully; it is possible to use colored paint and varnish coatings.

Design Features

Carrier truss structure a three-gable roof can be made using the following elements:

• rafter legs;
• special ridge runs;
• puffs in large quantities;
• floor beams;
• racks;
• Mauerlat.

They are used to redistribute loads - this is an important component that can transfer pressure from the roof to the walls of the house. The rafter legs at the top should be connected using purlins. They are made from bars, which also need to be connected to each other. For heavy snow, wind or temporary loads, it may be necessary to use an additional intermediate run.

The calculation of the length of the rafters is influenced by the fact that the length of the diagonal rafters is longer than that of the sloped rafters. If the value is insufficient, you can resort to extension.

When installing a rafter system, the main difficulty that may arise is the construction of a unit in which the sloping elements join one end of the ridge, and the diagonal elements join the other. This results in a simultaneous joint of three rafters. Important condition working with this unit is to maintain perpendicularity between the central rafters of all slopes and the ridge beam.

When installing any roof, do not forget about organizing hydro- and vapor barriers. These measures will protect the tree from unpleasant influences and prevent the formation of fungus and mold. The insulation is laid in such a way that its direction is perpendicular to the roof slopes. The film is laid, leaving a small overlap to eliminate the possibility of leakage. But great difficulty will arise when waterproofing the valleys. The installation of these places is complicated by the fact that snow is retained here, and therefore moisture accumulates.

Among important stages Installation of the rafter system can include installation of sheathing, laying of thermal insulation and roofing material. In this case, the type of sheathing is determined by the selected roof covering. So, for metal tiles you will need a sheathing device made from edged boards, for profiled metal sheets Unedged boards are suitable. But for bituminous shingles and other soft coverings it is best to use continuous sheathing from sheets of plywood or OSB boards.

Design calculation

The design calculation is based on drawing up a small roof plan in accordance with the measurements taken. To do this, you will need data on the length of the roof perimeter. It is measured according to the existing walls. To determine the required length of the rafter legs, first determine the slope. Moreover, the larger it is, the faster the snow will melt, but the greater the wind loads will fall on roofing system. Therefore, the optimal value is considered to be a slope of 30-45 degrees.

When taking into account the overhang of the roof over the walls of the house. It must be at least 50 centimeters. Such an event will protect the walls of the house, foundation and blind area from precipitation descending from the roof. Once these parameters are selected, the rafters can be calculated using the Pythagorean theorem, where they will act as the hypotenuse. And all the legs necessary for this can be found by measuring.

To determine the required cross-section of the rafter legs, as well as the need for additional stiffeners, loads are calculated - temporary, snow and wind. This can be done with the help of an appropriate joint venture or using calculation programs that are freely available on the Internet.

Also, the cross-section of the rafters may increase if it is necessary to use several layers of insulation. This factor depends on the construction area.

Installation technology

After all calculations have been made, proceed to installation.

Stages of work:

1. A Mauerlat must be installed along the entire perimeter of the load-bearing walls. It is a beam with a section of 50x50 and will serve as the basis for supporting the rafter legs.
2. Studs are used to secure the timber to the top of the walls. They must be made of galvanized metal. The studs are fixed into a reinforced belt.
3. It is also recommended to strengthen the diagonal beams with the help of extensions. Attaching the Mauerlat to the block requires preliminary special filing. Connections using metal plates, brackets and angles can be used instead. The choice will depend on which option is more convenient for a particular case.
4. The connection of the top of the rafters is made in the area of ​​the ridge.
5. To install the ridge, use a beam or the top two boards of the sheathing.
6. The hanging rafters are supported on the upper element of the frame and the purlin. This process is reminiscent of wedging into layered rafters.
7. You can use rafter cutting, but this will lead to increased labor costs. As a replacement, it is allowed to use metal fasteners consisting of corners or plates. Strengthening the rigidity of the system occurs due to the fact that they provide a strong connection.

The use of notches, tenon nests and other groove fasteners for installation can lead to a gradual weakening of the elements of the rafter system.

1. Using metal fasteners, you can solve the problem associated with increasing the length of rafters by extending them and joining them. This method will also help in crossing beams, and will also solve other issues related to the mating of frame elements.
2. When installing valleys, it is important to comply with all requirements.

1. For the installation of internal valleys, it is recommended to use metal to install the gutter. This will avoid incorrect installation soft material and its damage.
2. carried out on the flooring before the sheathing is laid. Before installing the valley, it is worth providing a flooring of antiseptic boards under the gutter. The suitable material is boards with a width of 30 centimeters, the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the counter-lattice.

1. Next, bend the edges of the gutter at right angles.
2. Then you need to bend the gutter relative to the center axis. The angle should slightly exceed the value of the valley angle.
3. Installation of the gutter is carried out starting from the top and moving down. Trimming occurs after laying on the surface.
4. The overhang on the gutter is made equal to 8-10 centimeters to ensure reliable fastening edges The flange is folded inward.
5. The gutter is fastened to the flooring using brackets or nails, the size of the latter should be 2.8x2.5 mm.
6. To eliminate the possibility of longitudinal displacement of the gutter, it is necessary to secure it to the flooring with nails. The distance from the edge should be two centimeters.
7. When performing the next overlap, it is made at least ten centimeters. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the transverse ribs are aligned.
8. It is important to control the quality of the joints in order to subsequently eliminate the possibility of leakage.
9. The joints are treated with a primer. After which the valleys are covered, protecting from atmospheric influences to give them a chance to dry.

Complex roof structures in private houses have an unusual and attractive appearance. A multi-gable roof includes a large number of different complex elements. As a rule, it is built on polygonal and square shapes, attics or in houses with complex layouts. In this article we will talk about the design of a multi-gable roof and analyze the structure of the rafter system.

A multi-gable roof is a type of pitched structure consisting of many gables forming gables along the edges of the overhangs. This type includes three main elements:

• a large number of valleys;
• forceps;
• ribs and gables.

By appearance it is a pitched structure with an inclined surface roofing elements to the outer walls, due to which precipitation and melt water do not stagnate.

For information! Distinctive feature gable roof - intersecting or cutting gable elements into the main slope, due to which valleys are formed.

Basic design features consist of the construction and arrangement of a valley, so this element requires careful calculation and compliance with all standards. From quality arrangement The valley's further bearing capacity and tightness of the structure depend. The shape of a multi-gable roof can be any, it all depends on the wishes of the developer. The slopes can be made in the form of a triangle or trapezoid. An important element in the structure of the structure is the rib. The rib is formed from the connection of the slopes and represents an outer corner. A four-gable roof has four ribs where two slopes are fastened together. As roofing materials You can use any product, the main thing is to correctly construct the frame of the structure.

For information! A gable roof is a structure where two pitched roofs intersect at an angle of 90 degrees.

Advantages and disadvantages

The photo shows the multi-gable roof of a private house. A multi-gable roof has a number of advantages, which include the following:

• reliable, durable and robust design;
• due to the large slope of the roof, the risk of stagnation of melt water and precipitation is reduced to zero;
• fits perfectly with any architectural form;
• the presence of a balanced rafter system;
• original and elegant shape;
• high performance characteristics.

For information! Mansard roof fits perfectly into the multi-gable design format and increases the usable area.

Among the disadvantages of a multi-gable roof, the following can be noted:

• complexity of installation work;
• device large quantity valleys;
• high consumption of building and roofing materials;
• complex processes for arranging a multi-slope roof;
• complex care and maintenance of the structure.

It is worth noting that it is better to entrust the installation and construction of gable elements to professionals; this will help to avoid errors in work and significantly save costs.

Rafter system and its structure

The main rafter system is the Mauerlat, which is a rigid connecting frame and is mounted on top of the wall. The elements are fixed to construction metal studs, which are attached to the armored belt. It is worth noting that the roof is gable - complex design, That's why Special attention Before its construction, attention should be paid to the drawing. To draw up a drawing, it is necessary to take correct measurements, determine the slope of the roof, select the type of rafter system, calculate valleys, ridges, ribs and fastening elements (tightenings, purlins, stops and vertical racks). The design of a multi-gable roof truss system consists of the following steps:

• a Mauerlat is installed, which is responsible for the strength and reliability of load-bearing walls;
• are fixed rafter legs;
• with the help of staples and cuts, the mauerlat is attached to the rafters;
• in the area where the top point of the rafters is connected, a ridge is installed and a vapor barrier and sheathing are laid;
• the wooden elements of the entire system are treated with special antiseptics to increase their service life;
• After installing the rafter system, the roof is insulated and roofing work is performed.

Important! If the house project is large and has complex architectural elements, rafter legs are installed longitudinally and transversely ceiling beams. Such a mechanism will add strength to the structure and act as tightening rods.

You can learn more about the construction of a structure with pediments from the video.

Three-gable designs

The rafter system of a three-gable roof consists of installing purlin supports on gable walls. The use of pediments makes it possible to avoid complex structural elements located under the attic or attic space. The house with three gables is most often used in the construction of buildings. The three-gable roof includes a large bay window covered by its own pitched roof. The structure of the bay window slopes consists of 2 valleys, which are made using two double boards.

For information! A multi-pitched roof with 3 gables is most often used for country houses with an attic. Branches of such structures are erected over extensions, bay windows or a covered veranda.

Most the best option for a roof with three gables, it is considered to use a step between the rafters of 70 cm. To facilitate compliance with the step, it is recommended to mark the mauerlat and install the rafter legs. The height of the rafters should be strictly observed, and the width of the step is determined before starting work according to pre-made marks on the mauerlat. It is worth noting that the presence of one powerful support for a three-gable structure will not be enough, because the diagonal rafters of the valleys exert pressure on it through the ecrer purlin. To obtain powerful support for the entire system, the central post is reinforced with a strut, which rests against the Mauerlat along the inner load-bearing wall and into the run branch. You can learn more about the structure of the rafter system from the video

Features of gable structures

If you decide to build a multi-gable roof, use quality material for the installation of its rafter system. The rafter system must withstand any loads and prevent destruction or deformation of the load-bearing elements in the house. Adhering to the recommendations and observing all the rules and regulations, the design will:

• practical and attractive;
• reliable and stable.

Thanks to its unusual shape, the gable type allows you to equip the floor as a living room, the main thing is to pay special attention to waterproofing. More details about the features of the gable design can be found in the video

The multi-gable roof type has complex and labor-intensive processes that require the knowledge and experience of specialists. Despite some disadvantages associated with architectural features, the gable design is considered aesthetic, attractive, and most importantly has high technical and operational characteristics.