How more complex design roof, the more interesting it looks upon completion of construction work and the more attention it attracts from others. Three-gable roofs fit this description perfectly. Combination of two types rafter system(the use of hanging and layered rafters) make its installation complex, requiring careful calculations. But after studying all the rules of the device, you can make a three-gable roof with your own hands.

For a house with a square or polygonal plan, roofs with gables are excellent, especially if there is an attic floor or extensions. different heights. The three-gable roof will increase the roof, providing it with lighting from three directions.

The complexity of organizing such a roof lies in the fact that there is a main difference in the design - the presence of valleys. Among the others distinctive features- the presence of ribs, grooves and gables.

You can consider a three-gable roof as a combination of a hip and a gable roof. As roofing you can choose any material. In particular, the use of transparent roofing is now becoming popular - this option is suitable for organizing lighting in winter garden. But since the entire structure in this case is in free view, it is important to process the material correctly and beautifully; it is possible to use colored paint and varnish coatings.

Design Features

Carrier truss structure a three-gable roof can be made using the following elements:

• rafter legs;
• special ridge runs;
• puffs in large quantities;
• floor beams;
• racks;
• Mauerlat.

They are used to redistribute loads - this is an important component that can transfer pressure from the roof to the walls of the house. The rafter legs at the top should be connected using purlins. They are made from bars, which also need to be connected to each other. For heavy snow, wind or temporary loads, it may be necessary to use an additional intermediate run.

The calculation of the length of the rafters is influenced by the fact that the length of the diagonal rafters is longer than that of the sloped rafters. If the value is insufficient, you can resort to extension.

When installing a rafter system, the main difficulty that may arise is the construction of a unit in which the sloping elements join with one of the ends of the ridge, and the diagonal ones with the other. This results in a simultaneous joint of three rafters. Important condition working with this unit is to maintain perpendicularity between the central rafters of all slopes and the ridge beam.

When installing any roof, do not forget about organizing hydro- and vapor barriers. These measures will protect the tree from unpleasant influences and prevent the formation of fungus and mold. The insulation is laid in such a way that its direction is perpendicular to the roof slopes. The film is laid, leaving a small overlap to eliminate the possibility of leakage. But great difficulty will arise when waterproofing the valleys. The installation of these places is complicated by the fact that snow is retained here, and therefore moisture accumulates.

Among important stages Installation of the rafter system can include installation of sheathing, laying of thermal insulation and roofing material. In this case, the type of sheathing is determined by the selected roof covering. So, for metal tiles you will need a sheathing made of edged boards; for profiled metal sheets, unedged boards are suitable. But for bitumen shingles and other soft coverings, it is best to use a continuous sheathing made of sheets of plywood or OSB boards.

Design calculation

The design calculation is based on drawing up a small roof plan in accordance with the measurements taken. To do this, you will need data on the length of the roof perimeter. It is measured according to the existing walls. To determine the required length of the rafter legs, first determine the slope. Moreover, the larger it is, the faster the snow will melt, but the greater the wind loads will be on the roofing system. Therefore, the optimal value is considered to be a slope of 30-45 degrees.

When taking into account the overhang of the roof over the walls of the house. It must be at least 50 centimeters. Such an event will protect the walls of the house, foundation and blind area from precipitation descending from the roof. Once these parameters are selected, the rafters can be calculated using the Pythagorean theorem, where they will act as the hypotenuse. And all the legs necessary for this can be found by measuring.

To determine the required cross-section of the rafter legs, as well as the need for additional stiffeners, loads are calculated - temporary, snow and wind. This can be done with the help of an appropriate joint venture or using calculation programs that are freely available on the Internet.

Also, the cross-section of the rafters may increase if it is necessary to use several layers of insulation. This factor depends on the construction area.

Installation technology

After all calculations have been made, proceed to installation.

Stages of work:

1. For the entire perimeter load-bearing walls it is necessary to install the Mauerlat. It is a beam with a section of 50x50 and will serve as the basis for supporting the rafter legs.
2. Studs are used to secure the timber to the top of the walls. They must be made of galvanized metal. The studs are fixed into a reinforced belt.
3. It is also recommended to strengthen the diagonal beams with the help of extensions. Attaching the Mauerlat to the block requires preliminary special filing. Connections using metal plates, brackets and angles can be used instead. The choice will depend on which option is more convenient for a particular case.
4. The connection of the top of the rafters is made in the area of ​​the ridge.
5. To install the ridge, use a beam or the top two boards of the sheathing.
6. The hanging rafters are supported on the upper element of the frame and the purlin. This process is reminiscent of wedging into layered rafters.
7. You can use rafter cutting, but this will lead to increased labor costs. As a replacement, it is allowed to use metal fasteners consisting of corners or plates. Strengthening the rigidity of the system occurs due to the fact that they provide a strong connection.

The use of notches, tenon nests and other groove fasteners for installation can lead to a gradual weakening of the elements of the rafter system.

1. Using metal fasteners, you can solve the problem associated with increasing the length of rafters by extending them and joining them. This method will also help in crossing beams, and will also solve other issues related to the mating of frame elements.
2. When installing valleys, it is important to comply with all requirements.

1. For the installation of internal valleys, it is recommended to use metal to install the gutter. This will avoid incorrect installation soft material and its damage.
2. carried out on the flooring before the sheathing is laid. Before installing the valley, it is worth providing a flooring of antiseptic boards under the gutter. The suitable material is boards with a width of 30 centimeters, the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the counter-lattice.

1. Next, bend the edges of the gutter at right angles.
2. Then you need to bend the gutter relative to the center axis. The angle should slightly exceed the value of the valley angle.
3. Installation of the gutter is carried out starting from the top and moving down. Trimming occurs after laying on the surface.
4. The overhang on the gutter is made equal to 8-10 centimeters to ensure reliable fastening edges The flange is folded inward.
5. The gutter is fastened to the flooring using brackets or nails, the size of the latter should be 2.8x2.5 mm.
6. To eliminate the possibility of longitudinal displacement of the gutter, it is necessary to secure it to the flooring with nails. The distance from the edge should be two centimeters.
7. When performing the next overlap, it is made at least ten centimeters. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the transverse ribs are aligned.
8. It is important to control the quality of the joints in order to subsequently eliminate the possibility of leakage.
9. The joints are treated with a primer. After which the valleys are covered, protecting from atmospheric influences to give them a chance to dry.

HOUSE EQUIPMENT (FOR SHRINKING)

WALL SET

Our clients are offered inexpensive basic equipment for shrink-fit construction, which allows the first initial stage put the frame of the house under the roof, and then begin to carry out finishing works. If necessary, the company’s specialists will calculate the cost of additional options.

The cost of this house is calculated taking into account classic sawn timber 150 x 150 mm and profiled timber 145 x 145 mm. At the request of the client, the log house can be built from larger timber. For the construction of country houses country houses in most cases, profiled timber 145 x 145 mm is used. Houses built with timber wall thicknesses starting from 195 mm (200 mm) are ideal for year-round living. Increasing the thickness of timber walls will reduce heat loss in the building, and will also give the house an elegant appearance. appearance. Each of the proposed types of timber has its own advantages. For example, beams processed mechanically using special equipment, they obtain a geometrically even shape from the outside and inside and have a smooth surface, which will significantly reduce the cost of finishing work in the future. In modern house construction, dry timber is increasingly used chamber drying, the properties of which allow you to begin interior or exterior decoration immediately after assembling the house kit.

For the manufacture of house kits from timber, environmentally friendly wood from the Kostroma region is used.

The wall kit price includes:

Design drawings and specifications of the bathhouse (AR, KR);
- production of timber for construction. Northern forest, Kostroma region;
- waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt;
- embedded (tying) row of timber 150 x 150 mm;
- treatment of the embedded crown with an antiseptic;
- external, main walls made of timber 150 x 150 mm (corrugated timber 145 x 140 mm);
- interior walls from timber 150 x 100 mm (profiled timber 145 x 90 mm);
- pediments chopped from timber 150 x 150 mm (profiled timber 145 x 140 mm);
- ceiling height: 1st floor - 2 m 70 cm, 2nd floor - 2 m 50 cm;
- beam connection " warm corner";
- assembly of the log house on wooden dowels according to technology;
- inter-crown insulation - jute fabric;
- floor joists - made of timber 150 x 100 mm in increments of 0.6 m;
- ceiling beams - made of timber 150 x 100 mm with a pitch of 0.6 m;
- compensation jacks under the terrace, porch;
- delivery, unloading of the log house and components;
- installation of the house kit by an experienced team (Russians);
- quality control of materials and work.

ROOF

Basic package includes installation roofing system and covering the roof with temporary roofing (roofing felt).

Rafters made of edged boards 150 x 50 mm in increments of 0.6 m;
- installation of rafters is carried out on sliding supports;
- crossbar for stops made of edged boards 150 x 50 mm;
- roof sheathing from edged boards 150 x 20 mm;
- roofing material (roofing felt).

At the request of the client, we can perform roofing work using metal tiles, soft bitumen roofing or ondulin.

FOUNDATION

The foundation is not included in the base price!

When building houses from timber, they use Various types foundations. The choice of foundation type may depend not only on financial costs, but also on the individual characteristics of the area. In some cases, it is necessary to conduct engineering geological surveys, during which the properties of the soil are studied and the location for construction is determined. Timely geology of the site also allows you to avoid mistakes at the initial stage during design and select the appropriate type of foundation for the structure.

Stages of building a house made of timber

Foundation installation

The foundation for a house should be selected based on the characteristics of the building site and the size of the log house. The choice of foundation for any structure should be approached thoroughly, and its installation should be entrusted to experienced specialists. Violations of the technology for constructing the foundation of a house can lead to additional financial costs. The most suitable for the construction of a timber house are strip monolithic foundation, pile-screw and foundation on reinforced concrete piles. Our construction teams can build any type of foundation with high quality.

Assembling a log house

The assembly of a log house from timber (profiled timber) can be done at any time of the year. To build a house, timber 150 x 150 mm or profiled timber 145 x 145 mm are often used. If necessary, our company can build a larger house from timber. As inter-crown insulation during construction timber houses jute fabric is used. Our company also invites you to order a log house made from chamber-dried timber, which is currently increasingly used in private country construction.

Roofing

Currently, a variety of roofing materials are used in the construction of timber houses. The most popular are metal tiles, ondulin and soft tiles. The basic package for building a house includes temporary roofing with roofing felt. If the customer wishes, the company’s specialists can carry out installation work using the most modern roofing materials, immediately after assembling the frame of the house. The cost and timing of the work depend on the complexity of the design.

Shrinkage of a log house

Log house from regular or profiled timber natural humidity Before finishing work begins, it must settle and shrink. During the shrinkage process of a log house, the wood shrinks naturally. In addition, a slight decrease in the linear dimensions of structural elements may occur. The technological break after assembling the frame until finishing can last up to 6 months. Modern technologies wood processing makes it possible to produce a house kit from chamber-drying timber.

Turnkey house finishing

The final stage of construction is the final finishing of the house on a turnkey basis. The cost of finishing work directly depends on the materials used. During the internal and exterior finishing The walls are sanded and painted. The finishing process also includes: installation and insulation of ceilings and floors; production of door casings and window openings, their installation and cashing. After installing windows and doors, lining the roof overhangs and installing the drainage system, you can use the constructed timber house for its intended purpose.

- one of the most common options for arranging the roof of a building.

Simplicity of design, ease of calculations and absence of complex elements make the gable roof the most reliable and suitable for use.

The presence of two planes equal area or having a spread in the angle of inclination and displacement of the ridge axis simplify the removal of sediments, have fewer problem areas, dangerous places accumulation of snow or water.

The composition of such a roof includes two slopes with the same or different angle of inclination and roof area, and two pediments (gable walls) - areas on the end sides of the roof that do not belong to the rafter system and slopes and are built from a different material.

You can read how to make a gable roof yourself.

The pediment is a continuation of the end wall of the building, covering the attic from the ceiling to the connection with the roof slopes.

Usually a gable wall is built from the same material as the walls, but sometimes a different type is used - for example, the walls are made of brick and the gable is made of wooden beam, boards, etc. The reasons for using other materials are most often the later construction of the pediment under finished roof, saving building materials or other considerations.

The shape of the gable wall can be very different, it is determined by the type and configuration of the roof. Architects distinguish these types of pediment devices gable roof:

• Triangular. The most common type, found everywhere. Most often has the shape of an isosceles triangle, but with the asymmetrical shape of the slopes, the pediment repeats the outlines of the cross section of the attic in the form of an isosceles triangle.
• Semicircular or bulbous. It is used in the construction of buildings with an arched roof that does not have a pronounced ridge and is a smooth combination of two slopes into one arc. IN modern construction used extremely rarely, was common in the era of classicism.
• Uninhibited. Has protruding parts on the plane, widely used in antiquity during the Baroque era.
• Trapezoidal. A triangular genus with a cut off apex, the roof has a flat surface.
• Torn. It has a gap in the upper part into which a decoration was installed (most often a statue or a molded heraldic element).

The list of types used can be continued for a long time, but it makes no sense - currently only a few options are used. The main type is triangular; a variation of it is often found - the pentagonal pediment. It occurs on roofs with broken slopes.

Gable gable roof: photo

When to build a gable - before or after building a roof?

For materials like brick, cinder block, etc. most good option- construction of a gable wall before erection of the roof. Working with such materials in a cramped attic complicated and cause a lot of inconvenience.

Wherein, it is important to correctly calculate the area and shape of the future pediment so as not to go beyond the design calculations. However, it is quite possible to erect a pediment after the roof has been installed.

This situation may arise if it is necessary to quickly protect the building from rain, or in the absence of a clear plan for constructing the roof: sometimes the angle of inclination of the slopes is determined by eye and the selection criteria become purely aesthetic preferences of the owner.

This option has its advantages: the pediment is immediately connected to the rafter system and has support while the pediment, erected first, represents section of wall, not strengthened by any means and in need of support in case of strong winds.

Most of the decorations on the pediments play the role of an additional reinforcing element, which, along with the decorative function, performs mechanical reinforcement. Final choice sequence of construction of the rafter system and pediment determined mainly by the materials used for the gable and the circumstances of construction- weather conditions, urgent need interior decoration etc.

The opinions of experts on this issue differ diametrically.- some argue that you first need a finished pediment, others definitely advise building the roof first. Therefore you can definitely consider both options to be equivalent.

You can find out about the types of rafter system.

The procedure for installing gables

How to calculate area and dimensions

The need to calculate the area of ​​the pediment may arise when determining the amount of construction or finishing materials for its construction.

Calculation of the area and size of the pediment is based on geometry and is based on house design data.

How to calculate the area of ​​a pediment gable we roofs we can find out according to the formula The area of ​​a triangle is the product of the base and the height divided in half., where the base is the width of the end wall of the house, the height is the height of the roof from the ceiling to the ridge.

If the height is unknown, but the width of the wall and is available, then the height can be determined by multiplying the width of the end (gable) wall by the tangent of the angle of inclination, determined from the Bradis tables. Most often, the height of the future roof is known in advance, so complex calculations are rarely necessary.

When designing a house, it is important to calculate the load on the foundation, because the weight of brick or cinder block gables makes serious adjustments to the load distribution. Therefore, all dimensions are most often calculated at the project development stage.

Pediment calculation

What materials are gable walls made of?

The best solution is to build a pediment from the same materials as the walls. That is, brick walls- brick pediment, log walls - log pediment, etc. At the same time, this preference is made mainly for aesthetic reasons, for the perception of the integrity of the building, greater accuracy and composure of the building.

Nevertheless, often a different material is chosen for the pediment, which is due to the desire reduce the load on the walls and foundation, simplify the construction and insulation of the pediment. For example, frame type has significantly less weight, it can be easily erected both before and after the construction of the roof, it has excellent heat-retaining properties, in addition - it is much cheaper than any other.

Such properties make frame gable most commonly used in construction. One way or another, all considerations regarding the choice of material have their pros and cons.

The main options are:

• Brick(cinder block, aerated concrete blocks etc.) pediment.
• Wood, timber, log type.
• Frame type of construction, the lightest and with a lot of finishing options.

The final choice of material is made by the owner himself based on these specific conditions and features of the building.

Brick version

Wooden version

Gable roof rafter system: gable and tying methods

There are two options: with wood or with brick. Let's take a closer look at them.

Wooden pediment

Often it is, in fact, sheathed on the outermost row of rafters. If it is made of timber or logs, then its shape exactly follows the outlines of the rafters, and the pediment is connected by a sheathing to the rafter system.

It must be remembered that timber or logs are heavy materials that do not allow the construction of a pediment after the roof is erected. But frame option more convenient for work after the roof has been built, since the boards are an easily processed material, light in weight, and are quite suitable for work on site.

Usually a wooden pediment is not considered as an independent element, it can be built in parallel with the rafter system, since this does not require a solution or other “wet” binders. In addition, simultaneous construction allows for a more precise fit of the parts and elements of the rafters and gable to each other.

Wooden tying method

Installation of a wooden pediment

Brick pediment

Requires priority construction. There are cases of subsequent filling of the end section of the roof with brick, but these are just special cases that occurred due to circumstances. It is necessary to lay on the finished gable wall cross beams who carry . To do this, its edges must be smooth to prevent curvature of the roof cut.

Laying is carried out along a stretched cord, one end of which is attached to the rail and marks the top point of the skate. The other end of the cord is attached to the bottom point. The top is equipped with a recess for the ridge beam, the same recess is made in the base for the Mauerlat.

At large area slopes use additional intermediate bars, located in the middle of the slopes and providing support for the rafters in the middle. The subsequent installation of rafters and sheathing firmly connects all the supporting beams to each other and strengthens the pediment, protecting it from wind and other loads.

Stone tying method

Installation of a stone pediment

Insulation of gable wall

gable wall is important when planning to use the attic for housing or for long-term stay for other purposes - workshop, office, etc.

Wooden and frame types they themselves are good heat insulators, and the frame one already has a layer of insulation inside the sandwich.

Two methods of insulation are used - inside and out. From the point of view of convenience and safety of work, insulation from the inside is preferable.

But from the point of view of physics, it will be more effective to insulate from the outside, since in this case the dew point is moved outside the wall and the moisture has the opportunity to evaporate into the atmosphere, and not inside the house or the insulating layer.

There are a lot of insulation materials that work well in such conditions:

• Glass wool;
• Minvata;
• Styrofoam;
• Penoplex.

These and similar materials successfully perform their task. Siding or other sheathing materials can be used for exterior cladding.

ATTENTION!

The pediment of the building, being a support for the rafter system, at the same time partially increases the load on it due to the influence of wind. Therefore, its construction must be carried out with an understanding of all loads and ways to compensate for them., otherwise there will be excessive pressure on the rafter system, which can lead to deformation of the roof.

All work must be carried out after consultation with experienced builders, and structural elements must have a margin of safety.

Useful video

In this video you can see how you can make a roof gable in a fairly economical way:

In contact with

Profiled timber from 100/150 mm - 641 000
Profiled timber from 150/150 mm - 689 000

The basic package includes (at the Client’s request, any changes are possible, including execution using frame technology):

Columnar foundation from bedside tables consisting of 4 blocks 200/200/400 mm (fastened together with cement mortar)
-Double strapping made of timber 100/150 mm
-The log house is made of profiled timber with natural humidity (17 rows). Height from floor to ceiling on the first floor - 2.3-2.35 m, height from floor to ceiling in the attic - 2.2 m
- Floor joists - 50/150 mm in increments of 70 cm
-Rafter beams 50/150 mm
-Rafters 40/100 mm
-Roof ridge height 3.5 - 3.7 m
-The roof of the house is Ondulin, Ondutis is laid under Ondulin
- Subfloor - edged board (substandard)
-The finished floor inside the house is a tongue-and-groove board 36-38 mm chamber drying
-The floor on the terrace is a tongue and groove board 27 mm
-The ceiling of the house is lined with dry clapboard
-The attic is lined with dry clapboard
- Sheathing of gables, corners of the house, cornices - coniferous lining of natural humidity
-Partitions inside the house - 1st floor - professional timber from 100/150, attic - frame
-Insulation of the ground floor floor - 100 mm "Izover" or "Knauf", laid "Stroyizol"
- Insulation of the ceiling of the first floor, as well as the attic - 50 mm "Izover" or "Knauf", laid "Stroyizol"
-Entrance door to the house - metal, the rest of the doors are paneled
-Windows are wooden, double, analogues of double-glazed windows
-Staircase in a house with carved balusters
-Delivery within 50 km from the Ring Road or MKAD
-Unloading the house and its installation at the Customer’s site

Wooden house from three gable roof

When talking about houses made of timber, one should take into account the variety of projects, each of which is original in its own way and bears the imprint of the taste and character of its owner. For admirers interesting solution You will surely like the house with three gables that we bring to your attention. It would seem that everything timber houses similar to each other - but this is not true at all. Each building has its own unique distinctive features and is equipped with a strong personality.

The project of a house with three gables and a terrace is one of those extraordinary design solutions, which bring a special aesthetics to the implementation of the plan. Let's start with the fact that the presence of pediments completely changes the internal feeling of being in attic floor. A sloping ceiling requires special interior and furniture arrangement. For many, it is a romantic solution that gives a certain special comfort. Considering that in this project the attic is three separate rooms, romance in this project is the predominant factor.

The first floor is distinguished by rationality and functionality. Here you will find everything you need for a complete comfortable stay - a bright, cozy living room, a spacious kitchen, all the amenities and a hall. The staircase leading to the second floor is located right in the hall - it additionally serves as a decorative element.

Such a house is optimal for a family who loves and knows how to welcome guests. There is enough space for everyone in this house, and everyone will feel comfortable. We should not forget about the special atmosphere inherent in all wooden buildings - freshness and joy of life are constantly present in houses made of timber. This is due to the natural beauty of the material from which the house is built. We invite you to carefully familiarize yourself with this amazing project - it is worthy of it.

Any gable roof has one important part, which to a large extent determines the operational and purely aesthetic characteristics of the entire roofing structure. It's called a pediment. Let's talk about how to properly equip it without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Pediment - is it necessary?

A pediment is understood as a part of a wall located between the edges of a roof with two or more slopes. It definitely has it. In addition, this part is equipped during the construction of multi-gable and various broken roofs. But for private dwellings made of logs, as well as single-pitch structures no pediment needed. The element we are interested in is most often equipped with buildings in temperate climate zones. In areas with strong hurricane winds, houses with gables are practically not built. It is also impossible to see such a part on buildings with hipped roofs, which have four slopes.

The roof gable is perceived by many solely as a decorative element, which is fundamentally wrong. It has great practical significance:

1. 1. Protects the building from adverse climatic conditions, preventing snow, rain, and gusts of wind from entering the house. In essence, the gable is a reliable barrier against the elements.
2. 2. Optimally distributes heat throughout the house and helps preserve it. This is of particular importance for buildings with residential (used year-round) attics.
3. 3. Supports the roof slopes, acting as an additional support point. There is a small nuance here. The pediment will be able to efficiently distribute the load only if it is correctly calculated and properly arranged.

And, of course, the described part of the building forms a single image (architectural and decorative) of the house. The pediment allows you to make the exterior of your home original, holistic and completely complete without additional financial investments.

Types of structures - choose the appropriate shape and material

IN old times pediments were always decorated with special pomp. They were decorated with statues and other architectural delights, and they tried to give them an unusual configuration. In our high-tech age, it is not pretentious, but emphatically strict forms that are valued more. The most common pediments are in the form of a triangle with sides of equal length. Structures of other forms are also popular:

• trapezoidal (they are found at least triangular);
• keel-shaped (visually the design resembles an inverted keel of a water vessel);
• stepped (consist of several multi-level steps).

A more sophisticated type of design has a torn shape. In this case, the pediment is not brought to the end of the roof canopy. And the unoccupied space is decorated with a flowerpot or a sculptural figure. It is very rare to see structures of arched and semicircular shapes. They look quite original, but it is quite difficult for a home craftsman to implement such a configuration with his own hands.

The material for constructing a gable wall is usually brick or wood. Note. Brick structures can be erected after the roof has been installed, and together with the (load-bearing) walls of the house under construction (that is, before the roof is installed). But wooden structures are always made in the process of arranging the rafter system. Note that gables, which are installed after the completion of roofing work, are inconvenient to build. And when erecting them before installing the roof, there is a high risk of the structure collapsing due to strong winds or calculation errors by the home craftsman.

The element we are considering is mainly affected by seismic and wind loads. In the temperate climate zone they are insignificant. A truly dangerous increase in pressure on the gable part is possible only in situations where it is used as a load-bearing structure for installing a rafter system. In such cases, it is recommended to install an additional wall inside the attic or install additional racks (they are called pilasters).

Brick construction - we take a long time to prepare, but we do the work quickly!

If brick was used to build the walls of the house, the part of the wall we are considering is, as a rule, also built from this material. We need to do the following. At the ends of the building, where the gables will be installed, we raise the brickwork by two more rows. Moreover, we perform this operation strictly to the thickness of the planned decorative elements. It is important. There is no need to lay out the material over the entire thickness of the walls. In addition, we leave the inner part of the latter free. It will be needed to install the seismic belt and Mauerlat.

The seismological belt is always made around the perimeter of the house without any breaks. This is the only way to realistically obtain a structure of the required level of rigidity for which rafter legs will not exert excessive load. If the belt is poured selectively, for example, exclusively along the walls that serve as supports for the said legs, there is a high risk of the latter pushing the walls of the building apart. I think there is no need to explain what this can lead to.

Making a triangular gable for any gable roof is easy. The sequence of actions is given below:

1. 1. We mount a special rail in the center of the end wall. It should have a height similar to the length of the designed roof ridge.
2. 2. We stretch thin twines (cords) from the top of the slats to the corners of the wall, we get the triangle we need with equal sides.
3. 3. We lay out the bricks, focusing on the boundaries, which are marked by stretched twines. Important! The extreme edges of the masonry must have a shape that matches the cord. That is, you need to immediately trim the bricks, placing them exactly on the sides of the triangle.
4. 4. We get a reliable pediment. The work is finished.

Let us recall that when constructing pediment structures that are large in height and width, it is necessary to support them with pilasters. They are also made of brick.

Wooden gable system - we build quickly and reliably

Installation of such a structure begins with the installation and fastening of a 15x15 cm wooden beam on the top of the end wall. We fix it with metal pins. They are laid in advance (during the construction of a house) in a concrete layer, which is made during the process of leveling wall surfaces.

After that:

1. 1. We mount a wooden plank strictly in the center of the fixed Mauerlat. We stretch cords from it to the corners of the building. Do not forget that we will build our pediment along them.
2. 2. We install the side boards strictly along the cords. We connect them using nails (we drive them into the Mauerlat) and steel brackets (mounted in the upper part of the wooden products).
3. 3. We nail additional beams to increase the strength of the side boards. We should get a figure in the shape of the letter A.
4. 4. We cover the made triangular structure with boards (take edged material), fitting them to each other as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the process of arranging a wooden pediment cannot be called too labor-intensive or complex. And most importantly, all work is not carried out independently and in the shortest possible time.

Insulation and waterproofing of the gable - when and how is it done?

If the attic of your house is a living space that you want to use both in summer and winter, you will have to insulate the gable wall and also protect it with layers of hydro- and vapor barrier. Thermal protection of the described part of the roof structure is most often carried out with fibrous mineral products (wool). They are placed in different ways - inside or outside attic space. Which installation option should I choose?

Construction experts advise laying insulation material from the inside.

This technology is considered more effective in terms of heat conservation and simpler, which is important when the work is done with your own hands. Its implementation involves the installation of sheathing - a special frame, on the attic side. Mineral wool or other insulating material is placed in the spaces between the elements of such a skeleton. Then the heat-protective layer is covered with a vapor barrier membrane and covered with sheets of plasterboard. The work takes little time and does not require special labor costs.

Laying thermal insulation outside requires the installation of scaffolding. Without them, you won't be able to work at height. In principle, the scaffolding will be useful to us a little later, when we begin to decorate our independently equipped pediment. So the costs for them will not be unnecessary. The procedure for work will be approximately the same as for thermal insulation of a structure from the inside:

1. 1. We make lathing on the surface of the pediment. We take the distance between the individual boards to be similar to the width of the insulation used (for example, a mat or a roll of mineral wool).
2. 2. We lay thermal insulation material between the sheathing parts.
3. 3. Cover the mineral wool with a layer of waterproofing.
4. 4. We fill the counter-batten on top. It is needed for the final cladding of the structure. We'll talk about this a little later.

Advice. Regular mineral wool It is better to use for external insulation of gables. But for carrying out interior works it is advisable to select more environmentally friendly, non-toxic and hypoallergenic materials. These include ecowool and mats based on flax fiber. By operational characteristics(sound protection, level of hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity) they are not much inferior to traditional mineral wool and at the same time do not have negative impact on human health.

Decorating the front part of the roof - which products are suitable?

For cladding the described structures, use various materials. It all depends on the design preferences of the home owner and his financial capabilities. Sheathing is carried out:

1. 1. Panels made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
2. 2. Wood and wood materials.
3. 3. Profiled sheets.
4. 4. Siding.

PVC products - the cheapest finishing material, which can hardly be called quality. They don't have high thermal insulation characteristics, with noticeable sub-zero temperatures become brittle and prone to cracking. Another operational disadvantage of plastic is insufficient resistance to mechanical stress. Finishing with such material can only be done if there is a truly modest financial budget allocated for decorating the house.

Natural wood (edged boards) and wood-based products (imitation timber, lining, block house) have a chic natural color and luxurious texture. Visually, the gables with this decor look great. In addition, wood provides high thermal insulation of the attic and the entire building as a whole. But for the installation of such products it is necessary to create a special frame. It requires considerable money and time. And the cost natural materials far from budget.

Excellent finishing is obtained when using profiled sheets. They have a good appearance and excellent performance. Corrugated sheeting can be used for cladding and outbuildings of any purpose, and houses. But for many people, profiled products are not suitable for one reason or another. They can be advised to perform stitching using vinyl siding. A number of experts call this particular material optimal for decorating pediments. In the next section, we will use his example to look at the technology of decorating the structures we are considering.

Sealing siding - the best technique for DIYers

Vinyl trim products are mounted on gables in three ways:

1. 1. On a wooden sheathing.
2. 2. On an aluminum frame.
3. 3. Directly onto the rafter system.

The first and third options require the investment of considerable effort in carrying out installation work. Home craftsmen use them quite rarely. But the method of attaching the casing to an aluminum frame is good from all sides. It is clear and objectively easy to implement.

You can cover part of the wall with siding like this:

1. 1. Using self-tapping screws or nails, we attach wooden blocks to the pediment (over its entire area) to create a sheathing. The installation step of the planks is 35 cm.
2. 2. We fix the starting aluminum strip to the sheathing elements. Important! The strip must be placed strictly horizontally, without the slightest deviation. We fasten it with self-tapping screws.
3. 3. Install the first piece of vinyl sheathing. Everything is simple here - we direct the siding groove into the tenon of the previously installed strip. If the connection was successful, we will hear a characteristic click.
4. 4. We cut the ends of the siding (each element) at a certain angle. Its value is determined by the slope of the roof of the building itself.
5. 5. After installing all the decorative elements, attach the upper part of the strip to the adjacent bars.
6. 6. Next, we install the next starting strip and repeat sewing the surface using the technology already described.

The finishing procedure does not require special knowledge. As a result, we get a beautiful and durable pediment.