Saving on repairs is not always good, but if you have a person with hands and brains, he can cope with any task on his own. When purchasing a door block as part of a supplier's kit, the box is included in disassembled form. In order to learn how to correctly and accurately assemble and install a door frame interior door do it yourself, you need to watch the video, which also comes with instructions.

Not all apartments begin renovations from scratch. Often simply replaced old door to a new one. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle - remove the old door block, and prepare the opening for installation of a new one. Usually the procedure is performed without preserving the old canvas and door frame, so it is carried out by roughly breaking them out. But neatness won’t hurt if the owner doesn’t want to re-finish the walls and corners of the doorway.

First, remove the door panel. The door can be removed from the card hinges by lifting it, but the universal hinges must be unscrewed from one side.

Remove the cash, screwed with self-tapping screws (unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver). If the cash is nailed down, pry it open with a wide chisel and remove the nails using pliers.

Determine where it will be attached to the opening. Usually attached to the hinge recess.

Cut off all the foam used to seal the door frame. Removed with a sharp knife.

Advice. When sealing the door frame with plaster, arm yourself with a chisel: lightly tap it with a hammer to remove all excess.

Remove the solid frame from the doorway. Place it on a horizontal plane and disassemble it. If preserving the canvas and box is not necessary, then you can remove them using a hammer, ax and crowbar. There is no special algorithm of actions here - break with all your might. This method will bring a lot of pleasure.

Selecting an interior door block

When choosing a door block it is worth considering:

Opening method. The most popular are swing doors. If there is a lack of space, sliding sliding doors are used. They are mounted in a special way and open along guide strips, sliding into a special recess in the wall. Folding (accordion-shaped) and stable (representing 2 halves of the canvas, swinging in both directions) are used much less frequently. They are matched to the appropriate design of the room.

Noise insulation. This quality is affected not only by the door leaf, but also by the frame of the interior door, as well as by the casings.

Weight of the canvas. This factor depends solely on the material from which the door is made. The heavier it is, the better quality the fittings should be.

Execution material. Doors are made from solid wood, MDF and chipboard. Products made from solid wood are considered to be of the highest quality; the downside is the weight of such a door.

Advice. When choosing an interior door block, consult the seller about its class fire safety. So, the door will protect you not only from noise, but also from fire.

Marking and measurements

Before assembling the door frame, it is necessary to take several accurate measurements and mark the materials. The door block is installed after the floors are ready and the walls are finished.

Dimensions are taken based on the height, width and thickness of the doorway. Indications should be indicated with an accuracy of 0.01 cm. If the measurement is inaccurate, a door installed with your own hands may not fit tightly or creak when opening/closing.

Of course, there are certain standards for door frames:

kitchen – 60 x 200 cm;


living rooms - 70-80 x 200 cm;

bathroom – 60 x 190-195 cm.

But taking into account the old buildings, the violation of the geometry of the opening and the difference in the thickness of the walls, it is better to play it safe and measure everything again. This will guarantee the correct operation of the door unit as a whole.

To take measurements, you need to have the following tools on hand:

yardstick;

pencil or marker;

• square;

Proceed to measurement:

Measure the height and width of the opening. To determine the correct horizontal line, the width is measured at the floor level.

Determine the dimensions of the door leaf. To do this, you need to subtract the width of the door frame beam from the width of the opening, multiplied by 2, and round the result to the nearest hundred. For example, if the measurement of the opening showed 90 cm, and the width of the frame beam is 25 mm, then the dimensions of the canvas are calculated using a simple formula (900 - 25 * 2 = 850). Based on this, the canvas should be 80 cm. The height is determined in a similar way.

Separately measure the openings in the bathroom and toilet. Here, due to the threshold, which prevents water from flowing out, the height is much less.

Calculate the depth of the door block. To do this, measure the thickness of the wall.

Before installing the door frame, you also need to check the floor level. It is important that the floor is level. This measurement is made using a building level. The difference between the door frame pillars should not exceed 2 mm.

Door frame assembly diagram

The door block is sold assembled or in parts. In the first case, the canvas is matched to the block, and all parameters are adjusted by the manufacturer. If the purchased door does not fit into the opening, then it is expanded. In the second case, you can purchase parts of the door frame and the leaf separately and fit the block to the door opening.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

• self-tapping screws;

• screwdriver or screwdriver;

  hacksaw with blade for wood and metal;

  pencil or marker.

So, let's start assembling the door frame.

On a flat horizontal surface (the floor or a large table) we spread a material that will serve as protection against scratches during assembly.

We lay out 2 vertical bars of the disassembled box. They have a vestibule - special grooves that secure the canvas.

We put the door leaf into the narthex, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm.

We align the frame posts and apply the top block.

Mark the length of the top of the box and cut off the excess. It’s worth cutting strictly according to size, but if you miss a little, it doesn’t matter, the small imperfections will be hidden by the platband.

Screw the top rail to the posts using self-tapping screws or carefully nail it in place.

Measure the doorway again and cut off the excess.

Doors to bathrooms are equipped with a threshold. Measure another short beam for the threshold in the same way as the top crossbar.

The door frame is ready for installation.

Installation of accessories

After you have assembled the door frame, you need to install hinges on it. It will look more aesthetically pleasing if the hinges are screwed at the same height on each door.

Without removing the door block from the horizontal surface, after assembling it, place the fittings in the intended place and draw a dotted line with a sharp pencil. Remove the door panel and use a chisel to select a piece of wood with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the canopy card. Attach the fittings and pierce the twisting points with an awl. Screw the canopies with self-tapping screws. Part of it with a flag on which the loop will be hung is attached to the counter, and the loop is on the door leaf.

You can screw the fittings onto the door frame after it is installed, but you will have to do this while holding the door leaf suspended. You definitely won’t be able to do this operation alone.

Installing an interior door frame into an opening

After everything preparatory stages to install the door frame in the opening have been passed, you can begin installation. In order to prevent the U-shaped structure from “driving”, it is necessary to install auxiliary strips (spacers) on it; two are enough – at the bottom and in the middle of the rack.

In order to check the correctness of the frame geometry, you must use a plumb line or level. It is easy to construct a plumb line using twine and a bolt, tying it to the head.

Having placed the structure in the indicated place, check the verticality of the racks again. Don’t be too lazy to do this; if it’s uneven, the door won’t close. This procedure is carried out on both sides of each rack.

The box is being installed anchor bolts. They will fix the door block and prevent its deformation. To do this, you need to drill 3 through holes in the racks directly into the opening, and then tighten the bolts.

The gaps between the door frame and the opening are eliminated using polyurethane foam. In order not to stain the front side of the structure, it is necessary to cover it with masking tape. Fill the voids with foam carefully, taking into account the fact that when it hardens, it increases the volume by 30-40%. To prevent the box from moving, it is necessary to install wooden spacers. After the foam dries, they are removed.

Final stage

The final stage includes the installation of platbands on the door frame. They give door block aesthetically pleasing and hide minor installation imperfections.

First of all, the length of the casing is determined. To do this, you can use the size table, or determine it yourself by measuring the length and width of the structure at the extreme point of the box. To join the platbands, it is necessary to make a side cut at an angle of 45°. You can use a miter box ( special device, which allows you to cut wood products according to specified angle parameters) or a jigsaw, having previously measured the required angle with a protractor.

Next, each of the side trims is nailed to the box with two nails (bottom and middle). The upper horizontal casing is measured and sawed at an angle of 45°. After this, all 3 planks are finally nailed.

Advice. To ensure that the nails do not peek out from the platband, they must be recessed. Using a drill with a diameter corresponding to the size of the nail head, cut a recess of 1-1.5 mm.

When cutting the door frame beams, use a hacksaw or jigsaw. Their small teeth will prevent you from chipping.

When installing the canvas from solid wood use 3 canopies. This way, a heavy door will last longer and the hinges will not sag. The third hinge is cut into the middle of the door frame or moved upward.

Doors for the kitchen and living rooms should be 1-2 cm from the floor level. This is done to ensure ventilation. Also, small ventilation grilles are cut into the kitchen door so that if gas leaks, it does not concentrate in one room.

If the room has thick walls, and this was not taken into account when choosing a door, then it turns out that the width of the frame is less than the width of the opening. To correct such a defect, a supplement is used. Bars or boards that will completely cover the bare wall.

When finally installing the door frame, so that the foam adheres better, it is necessary to wet the surface with a spray.

Now you are definitely ready to install the door frame for the interior door. The proposed video describes in more detail some of the stages of this difficult process.

How to properly install an interior door: video

A door of a new design was purchased and the owner looks in bewilderment at the door without fittings and the necessary inserts.

If you want to do without craftsmen, so that assembling a door frame with your own hands is successful, you need to familiarize yourself with this technological process.

Only correct installation door design will be responsible for its reliability and beauty. Determining the size of the doorway and proper assembly of the necessary elements determines how long and effectively the door will serve in the house.

Important points that masters pay attention to before starting work:

• correspondence of the horizontal and vertical axes of the box with the elements of the wall and canvas
• take into account the state of the microclimate in the home
• comply with GOST requirements
• select parts for fixation in accordance with the weight of the structure
• the product is fixed in the correct relationship with the load-bearing elements with appropriate reliability
• pay attention to the use of polyurethane foam, its ability to expand at the moment of hardening

The door frame is fixed according to the following schemes:

• with making cuts at right angles, which are performed with a saw shaped with fine teeth, with special care, for this you need to have knowledge and ability to process wooden parts
• installation at an angle of 45 degrees. carried out using a miter saw and miter box

To carry out the installation steps, you need to know where to start assembling the door frame, step-by-step instruction explains the list of necessary components for commercial products.

Need for tools and materials

Acquisition necessary details contains the following elements:

• door leaf
• screws and dowels
• bars for vertical and horizontal
• platbands
• anchor bolts
• iron hanging strips
• wedges according to the width of the openings
• polyurethane foam

The design of the door frame is an ordinary frame of vertical hinged and hinged jambs. The purpose of loop beams is to carry loads from the webs. In addition, there are horizontal box jumpers. The upper elements are called lintels, the lower ones are called thresholds.

Not every consumer installs thresholds in their doors, since they are optional and serve to hide cracks or get rid of drafts, and also protect the neighboring room from moisture penetration. If a hole appears near the floor and threshold, it is hidden by the floor covering. The side of the door frame at the time of construction of a new house is performed before installation begins finishing materials lower.

Availability of detailed connections

Despite the structural simplicity of the door frame, they correct work depends on the competent assembly of the connections of individual parts in order to obtain a single closed circuit if there is no lower jumper.

In this case, the bars are fixed together using the following methods:

• Tenoning is a durable but labor-intensive process. To perform it you will need special skills and certain tools.
• Baguette fastening is performed using studs and screws; detailed trimming at an angle of 45 degrees will be required. At the same time, if a door frame is assembled from MDF, chipping of the materials and sloppy external seams is possible.

Making connections using right angles implies the need to cut a quarter of the structure, but it has been proven in practice that the method is the most reliable, simple and effective for any door structures.

How to assemble a box

Beginning masters choose the most easy way, join the parts at right angles. To begin the procedure, you need to assemble all the structural elements on a horizontal platform. A floor surface covered with any available material or shifted ones will do.

The technological process consists of the following working order:

• Lay out the bars facing the front, align the door plane with the future frame. Regardless of the chosen connection, the elements consist of a loop, a false jamb and a lintel piece.
• The crossbar related to the lintel frame, if it is installed in an opening made of foam concrete or brick, must be wider in width than the frame, this increases the load-bearing capacity. Then they determine where to attach the jambs to the lintel. From the middle of the lintel beam, equal measures are taken on both sides.
• Form equal gaps between the frame and the door leaf on all sides using various gaskets.
• If necessary, the points for cutting are determined.
• The crossbar is being manufactured.
• An awl or scalpel is used to mark the false profile area for further removal to form an area for connecting points. Careful cuts or cuts are made according to the marks.

Installation actions are carried out with special attention. Allowing minor errors in the dimensions of the beams masks other elements and appears unaesthetically in the false areas. The formation of excess can be removed with a chisel if the recess is cut out correctly.

The next assembly stage consists of the following actions:

• The pieces of bars prepared with the necessary cuts are laid out where the gaps on the canvas are marked with gaskets. Mark the places where the loops will be placed. If standard is selected, add the upper gap to this size and determine a point equal to a distance of 2.03 m from the intersection of the jamb and the lintel.
• Hinged sashes are screwed onto the corresponding beam, a sharp object is used to mark the boundary along which material will be removed and traces will be made at the points where mounting holes will be drilled. Based on pre-made measurements and markings, selective actions are carried out on the section of the bar. The recess should be equal to the thickness of the loop element.
• After the shapes for the hinged sashes are formed, they are placed in the prepared recesses and screwed with screws.
• The work will be completed by checking the correctness of all fastenings made, fixing the crossbar element with the posts.

Only the accuracy of measurements, checking the level for compliance of all parts, the correctness of their fixation without distortions, will provide the opportunity for good operation of everything.

Making a frame from MDF

Many consumers choose to install door frames made from composites based on pressed fibers. The technological process of this design differs in some respects in relation to alternative options.

The characteristics of such commercial products include the following points:

• The products are based on elements made using cellulose fibers pressed and impregnated with glue. Strength and density are ensured by special technological processes.
• All parts are made by giving them shapes, so that they fit snugly to the door leaves.
• The surfaces of the parts are made with decorative coating protecting them from moisture penetration and giving an attractive appearance.

The different designs are divided into the following:

• With application of paper segments. Profiled fragments are produced with textured paper pasted over them and a varnish coating. Such products, even with a protective layer, do not protect the product from defects after friction or wetting.
• Parts are laminated; such products are most in demand in construction markets. They are distinguished by their attractive appearance and long service life. Decorating with film makes surfaces moisture resistant and preserves color.
• The finishing is done with natural wood veneer. These boxes are similar to those made from solid wood, differing only in their short service life, since in a humid environment or temperature changes the glued part peels off.

In practice, there are examples when, when assembling parts, there is a connection in the door components wooden beam with fastening of a stamped profile part.

Advantages of pressing

The choice of many owners of MDF doors and frames is due to the following advantages:

• Providing small load effects on load-bearing elements due to the lightness of the materials
• products are manufactured with a homogeneous structure, which is the reason for their integrity, and the stability of fastening elements is also noted
• development technological processes in the field of decoration produces products with imitation of expensive natural finishes

The disadvantages of cheap panels include:

• poor resistance to direct contact with water, swelling and deformation of geometric parameters occurs
• the change in shape is caused by the installation of a thin door frame and a heavy door leaf
• requires careful handling regarding mechanical damage
• installation contains labor-intensive procedures

If we compare MDF and wooden boxes, of course, natural material takes precedence on all sides.

Even if it has lost its original appearance over time, it can be easily restored with the help of repair and restoration projects. But for consumers, their ability to pay often comes first.

The materials and tools for carrying out the work are no different from the above proposed list except for the MDF elements themselves. The main condition for assembly is the formation of a rectangle.

The work must be carried out on a flat surface on which:

• laying the door leaf
• parts of vertical risers are placed on the side sections
• carry out cutting of workpieces, adjusting the height with the corresponding 3mm. gaps at the top and bottom, if a threshold is provided
• the jumper at the top is also cut according to the width and side gaps

Then they move on to the connecting actions of the jumper and vertical riser. As soon as the assembly is completed, it is necessary to check whether a structural distortion has occurred.

How to install a frame in an opening

A door frame assembled from any material must be correctly inserted into the opening intended for it, so that it performs its functions for a long time without creaking or jamming.

To do this you need to work as follows:

• Carefully move the assembled structure to its intended location and temporarily secure it with polystyrene foam or packing cardboard. Using a level, the verticality of the surface is checked with the side where the hinges will be attached. The strength of the structure is necessary so as not to disrupt the evenness of the installation, so fixation is inserted into the gaps using wedges. They are made from wood waste.
• Installation for such fastening is carried out from the bottom of the hinge arrangement, there will be fastening with dowels or. The stakes are driven into the upper corners to achieve a stable position for the entire frame. Spacer wedges are driven in on each side one by one, and try to align them with each other with the cut parts. On one side, the installation of extensions is carried out, the other is carried out by leveling the door frame with the wall surface.
• The door frame is fastened using holes prepared for fasteners to install hinges. Wedging must be present there so that deformation moments do not occur at the moment of screwing in the screws. In this case, the pretend side is slightly secured and not brought to the final stage. In order not to knock down the dimensions, the installation of this part occurs after the door leaf is installed.
• For stability, foam is applied to the gaps.
• All door hardware is installed.
• Place a gasket under the canvas and screw on the looped parts one by one, starting from the top.

After completion, close the door completely, using spacers, and finish installing the door part. After this, they begin to apply foam around the entire perimeter. Experts recommend using spacer stakes; only they will ensure reliable stability and prevent skewing of the risers.

You should not increase the number of fasteners, since the door leaf acts under its own load with the help of hinges, so the main attention is paid to these places.

Excess hardware can create the appearance of unnecessary holes and only under the hinged base will the fasteners reliably hold, which must be screwed tightly. You cannot hide unreliable screwing with foam; it cannot get rid of the problem.

Do-it-yourself door installation is shown in the video:

Doors are one of the few types of joinery that does not forgive mistakes. If you took the dimensions incorrectly or cut the parts at the wrong angle, that’s it, you won’t be able to correct the dimensions, you’ll have to redo everything all over again and use new materials. If the sawing angle does not match, then sealing the resulting gap with sealant is useless. It may become invisible (although this is unlikely), but the strength of the structure will be significantly reduced. The individual elements of the box will not touch over the entire surface, but only at a few points. Accordingly, the load on the bars increases significantly, such a door will not last long. Moreover, you have to use the door very often and with varying efforts.

What we mean is that all work on assembling the door frame must be done very carefully and carefully. The technological gaps between the blade and the frame, the threshold and the floor are 2–3 millimeters; with the same accuracy it is necessary not only to measure, but also to cut off all individual workpieces and make precise allowances for the width of the cut.

You must know your instrument and its " specifications" The tool must be sharp and in good working order, and the hand must be “firm and confident.” We strongly recommend that all cuts be made with an electric saw with a rotating table.

Why not in a miter box? The answer is simple. If you use a miter box, then we can say with great confidence that you rarely make cuts, otherwise you would have bought an electric saw long ago. And since you rarely trim materials at an angle, you don’t have enough practice.

Modern interior doors made of MDF have many advantages - attractive appearance, low price and practicality. MDF provides unlimited space for implementation design ideas, and an extensive range of sizes allows you to choose best option for interior openings of any depth and width.

Does not amount to special labor and independent MDF installation doors, which makes it possible to save on the services of repair specialists.

Door selection rules

If you decide to install the door yourself, the first thing you need to do is take accurate measurements of the doorway, preferably without old box. The main parameters are its depth, width and height.

• The depth of the opening is the thickness of the wall according to which the door frame (frame) is selected;
• The width of the opening is the width of the door + approximately 8-9 cm for installing the door.
  

  The standard door size for a bathroom is 60 cm, for a kitchen – 70 cm and for interior doors – 80 cm. Thus, to install, for example, a kitchen door, the opening width should be about 80 cm.

The MDF box itself has standard thickness 2.5 cm, multiply by 2, it turns out 5 cm. Add the necessary allowance for free movement of the door - approximately 3 mm on each side. The remaining distance of 3-4 cm will be needed to adjust the correct position of the loot in space and its additional fixation using polyurethane foam;

• Opening height. This parameter plays a role not so much when choosing the height of the doors ( standard height modern door leaves - 2 meters), how much when choosing a frame design. It can be with or without a threshold. Calculation of the height of the door with a threshold is carried out according to the same scheme as the calculation of the width of the door. And if the door is installed without a threshold, then another 1-2 cm is added to the 3 mm margin for free movement of the door at the top (depending on the thickness flooring).

Based on the data obtained, the door and fittings for it are selected. The final set should look like this:

• Door leaf;
• box (2 vertical beams and one or two (if a threshold is provided) horizontal beams;
• vestibule slats (vertical and horizontal);
• additional trim strips (in case of non-standard opening width);
• fittings (handle, hinges, lock (if necessary).

A set of necessary tools

Installing interior doors with your own hands is not particularly difficult, but it is responsible and painstaking process, which will be very difficult to carry out without the appropriate tools. To carry out all work accurately and quickly you will need:

• electric drill or hammer drill (depending on the material from which the walls are made);
• drills or drills 4 and 6 mm;
• hand saw with fine teeth;
• wood drill with a diameter of 4 mm;
• chisel;
• screwdriver or screwdriver with a Phillips head;
• tape measure and building level;
• miter box;
• quick installation dowels with a length of at least 75 mm and wood screws 3.5x60mm;
• polyurethane foam.

Do-it-yourself door installation: step-by-step instructions

The complexity of the process of installing a door with your own hands will depend on the initially selected model. More expensive options are already supplied with hinges and a handle and have parts dimensions ready for installation. Their assembly resembles a construction set, because the structural elements do not require adjustment, it is enough just to fasten them in a certain sequence, install the frame in the opening, put the door on the hinges and decorate the finished structure with platbands.

We will consider a more complex option, when the door leaf is equipped only with blanks for the future door and has neither hinges nor a handle. The first thing you need to do is dismantle the old door and door frame.

Assembling a new loot

This process is performed on a flat horizontal surface, i.e. on the floor (to avoid damage to the elements of the box, it is recommended to first lay a soft substrate).

First of all, the top crossbar of the frame is sawn off, taking into account the width of the door, allowances for freedom of its movement (in total ≈ 6 mm) and the thickness of the door (2.5 x 2 = 5 cm). Next, the vertical elements of the tray are mounted. They are laid out on the floor perpendicular to the top crossbar. All elements are in the “edge” position. When joining horizontal and vertical parts, a right angle should be obtained.

The door strips are temporarily inserted into the mounting grooves and the door is placed on them. Gaskets ≈ 3 mm thick (for example, even strips of cardboard) are inserted between the door leaf and the frame around the perimeter.

Taking into account the possibility of splitting MDF elements, it is strongly recommended to pre-drill the places for future screwing in of self-tapping screws with a wood drill of a slightly smaller diameter.

The attachment points should be located closer to the center of the parts. Two screws are enough to connect each side of the box.

Having received a U-shaped base, it is necessary to cut off the excess vertical elements along the length. In this case, we must not forget about the threshold (if it is planned) or the required distance from the floor (taking into account the thickness of the floor covering). Having measured the required length and trimmed the excess, the lower part of the box is fastened with a threshold part of the same width and according to a similar pattern with the installation of the upper crossbar, or a mounting strip for temporarily fixing the correct contour of the tray (attached to the lower end sections vertical racks). The assembly of the box is now complete.

Insertion of hinges

This process requires maximum precision and accuracy in work. The easiest way to do this is with a hand-held milling machine, but if you don’t have one, then you’ll have to use a hammer and a carpenter’s chisel.

Having inserted the folded hinges into the gap between the door and the frame, and placing them at a height of ≈ 250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the door, it is necessary to make appropriate markings on the door and the end of the door on the side where the hinges will be placed (taking into account the right or left opening of the door) .

Having removed the door from the assembled structure, using available tools it is necessary to cut recesses in the door and the end of the door that correspond to the thickness and contour of the hinge plates. Next, the hinges are installed in the prepared “sockets” using self-tapping screws (usually they are included in the kit with the hinges).

Do-it-yourself loot installation

The assembled structure must be inserted into the doorway, controlling its correct horizontal and vertical arrangement using a building level. The box is fixed using wooden wedges and self-tapping screws.

Door leaf installation

The next step is to install the door leaf with embedded hinges on the inserted frame. At the same time, the correctness of the vertical and horizontal gaps is checked. If the door opens and closes without interference, and all gaps are the same, then the installation was done correctly.

Final fixation of the box

It is necessary to insert gaskets (for example, strips of cardboard of appropriate thickness (≈ 3 mm) into the gap between the door and the frame along the entire perimeter of the structure. The next procedure is to fill polyurethane foam the remaining space between the doorway and the frame.

After the foam has completely dried (≈ 12 hours), the protruding excess foam is cut off and the lower fastening strip is dismantled.

Installation of platbands

The easiest and best way to carry out this procedure is with a miter box and a saw with fine teeth. Having measured required dimensions horizontal and vertical trims, they must be carefully sawed off at an angle of 45º.

Installation is carried out using thin self-tapping screws, followed by decorating their heads with special overlays in color with cash, nails without heads or mounting glue.

The door frame is mounted in the entrance opening of the wall and is part of the door structure on which the door is hung using hinges, serving as an obstacle to entry into or exit from the room. The box is made of MDF, chipboard or wooden beams with a thickness of 75-85mm. When the wall thickness is more than 85 mm, additional strips are used, which are installed in special grooves of the beams. The door frame has a cutout 1/4 deep equal to the thickness of the leaf.

To install hinges in the box, material is sampled in an amount equal to the thickness of the hinged sash. This is necessary for a tight fit of the door leaf to the frame jambs. installed without insertion.

The door frame is a frame structure. Its vertical components are called jambs, one of which is looped, the other is feigned. The hinge beam carries the main load of the door leaf. The horizontal upper box lintel is called the “lintel”, and the lower one is called the “threshold”. The threshold in the box is not mandatory element. It is installed when it is necessary to eliminate drafts by covering the gap under the door leaf. Doors with thresholds are often installed to keep spilled water from entering adjacent rooms. The gap between the floor and the threshold is hidden by the thickness of the floor covering. Therefore, the assembly of the door frame with the threshold is carried out before laying linoleum, laminate and other materials used for finishing the floor.

Types of connections of door frame elements

The entire procedure for manufacturing the frame structure of an interior door consists of connecting individual elements of the frame together into one product, which has the appearance of a closed or open contour, depending on the presence of a threshold. There are three types of connecting box beams:

Tools and materials

Accurate assembly of the door frame requires tools and auxiliary materials. You will need the following:

• Tape measure, pencil, masking tape;
• A miter box is a device for cutting timber at different angles. Required for baguette connections and preparation of platbands.
• Hand saw, drill with wood drills, construction knife;
• Hammer – it is necessary for attaching the interior door frame to a brick or concrete wall;
• Chisel – will be needed to cut out places in the box for attaching hinges;
• Polyurethane foam - necessary to seal the space between the door frame and the opening.
• Acrylic paint for wooden surfaces.

Door frame assembly

Most home craftsmen choose simple diagram assembly, which involves joining the box elements at an angle of 90 degrees. To assemble the door frame for ease of work, it is recommended to lay out all the parts of the future structure in one horizontal level. This can be done on a cardboard floor, a couple of tables pushed together, or four stools. Correct assembly of the door frame implies the following order of work:

From all of the above, it is noticeable that assembling a door frame with your own hands is not particularly difficult. A positive work result can always be obtained by following the rules of the exact sequence of actions.