Tube wells for water supply. All about wells. Main types of wells

Wells are hydraulic structures designed primarily for the extraction of water from underground sources. wells are also used to obtain water from open reservoirs (infiltration wells), as well as to remove liquid waste (absorption wells).

Wells are vertical shafts or boreholes dug into the ground., reaching the aquifer, and serve, as a rule, to organize local water supply. Bored wells are sometimes used as a source and for centralized water supply. In large cities, the use of wells for centralized water supply has not become widespread due to limited water flow.

Depending on local conditions, depth of aquifers, water supply needs and technical capabilities are constructing mine (log houses) or drilling (tubular) wells. The construction of tube wells is preferable, because compared to log houses, pipes protect water from contamination much better.

The depth of a well can vary from several meters to tens and even hundreds of meters (artesian wells) and depends on the depth of the aquifers. The flow rate of water obtained from wells ranges from 1.5-7 (mine and small tube wells) to 400 m3 per day (large tube wells). Water in wells is set at a certain level, which is called static. However, with constant water intake from wells, the amount of water coming from the soil turns out to be insufficient to maintain a static level in the wells, and it is established at a lower level, which is called dynamic.

As a result, water constantly flows into the well, and in the soil around it a zone of some rarefaction is formed, which looks like a funnel expanding upward (depression funnel). The difference in the heights of the static and dynamic levels, and therefore the size of the depression funnel, depends on the intensity of water pumping. The size of the depression funnel is large hygienic value, because by its size it is possible to determine the zone of most likely suction of contaminants in wells, and serves as a criterion for establishing sanitary protection zones.

The quality of water obtained from wells depends on their depth, landscaping, method of water collection, local hydrogeological and hygienic conditions. As a rule, with increasing well depth, bacterial contamination of the water obtained from them decreases, and the amount of dissolved salts and the degree of hardness increase. Properly constructed wells usually produce water that is suitable for use without additional treatment.

To obtain good-quality water, it is recommended to install wells in an elevated place, at a sufficient distance from places of pollution (no closer than 25 m from livestock yards, barns, yard latrines, garbage heaps, garbage pits, etc.), taking into account the structure of the soil. If they are located close to these objects, the soil has a high degree of permeability, or these objects are improperly constructed, contaminants from them can leak into the well. It is recommended to increase the depth of the well to the second or third aquifer, which significantly reduces the possibility of water pollution. The area around K. must be landscaped and kept clean. The area of land adjacent to the well within a radius of about 5 m should be fenced off; within a radius of 2-3 m the ground should have a hard surface. To ensure the outflow of spilled water, drainage gutters are constructed or grooves are dug.

- the most ancient structure for water extraction - is the most common source of water supply in rural areas.

Its size and shape can be varied:

Square.
Round.
Oval.
Rectangular.

Walls can be:

Wooden beams.
Concrete well rings.
Stone (rubble or brick).

To construct a shaft well, a shaft is dug vertically in the ground, manually or using special mechanisms, with a square or round cross-section with sides (diameter) of about 1 m. The depth of a shaft well most often ranges from 5 to 45 m, but sometimes can reach 20-25 m. The walls of the shaft are reinforced with a frame - wooden, brick, stone, concrete.

For wooden frames, rot-resistant species are used: oak, larch, pine, alder. A good fastening is concrete rings, which are lowered into the shaft and fastened together with cement solution. Such walls are completely waterproof, which is an important factor that protects the water in the mine from contamination. The lower part of the log house, located in the aquifer, is made permeable to facilitate the flow of water into the well (with a concrete log house, the lower part is constructed of porous concrete). When constructing shaft wells in rocky soil, sometimes they do without fastening the walls.

To prevent turbidity of water, coarse gravel is poured into the bottom of the well. The upper part of the frame should protrude 0.8-1 m above the ground surface so that surface contamination does not enter the well; A hole about 1 m deep and the same width is dug around the log house, into which greasy clay is compacted layer by layer (clay castle). The surface of the soil around the well should slope towards the outside.

The log house is equipped with a lid, and a canopy is placed over it to protect it from precipitation. The most hygienic and convenient is to lift water from a mine well through pipes using manual or electric pumps, while the mouth of the well can be completely closed. Often water is lifted in buckets using a gate or “crane”. The public bucket is permanently secured to the lifting device. The use of individual buckets is strictly prohibited. The most hygienic in this case is a self-tipping bucket that is not touched by hands. Periodically (once a year), the well is cleaned: the water is completely pumped out, the walls and bottom are mechanically cleaned of sediment and silt, and then disinfected. To do this, wash the walls of the log house with a 10% solution of bleach, bring the active chlorine content in the accumulated water to 10-15 mg/l and leave for 10-12 hours, after which the water is scooped out until the strong smell of chlorine disappears.

Can be shallow or deep. They represent metal pipes, inserted into the ground up to the aquifer. The lower part of the tube well is equipped with a filter for receiving water, the rise of which can occur by gravity, using manual, electric centrifugal or piston pumps, as well as airlifts. At the top of the tube well, a device is installed to collect flowing water and protect the wells from contamination from the surface. The diameter of the pipes can be different and depends on the depth of the well, the expected water flow and technical capabilities. For shallow depths, pipes of the same diameter are used. When drilling wells to great depths, the use of pipes of the same diameter becomes impossible; in such cases, the diameter of the pipes decreases with increasing drilling depth.

The junction of pipes of different diameters is sealed. Shallow tube wells (Abyssinian, Norton) are used to extract water from shallow depths not exceeding 7-8 m, and are constructed from pipes with a diameter of 40-60 mm. Raising water from such a well is done manually piston pump, installed in the above-ground part of the well. Such a pump is not able to create a vacuum sufficient to lift water from great depths. The lower part of small tubular pipes ends with a steel tip, making it possible to drive or screw them into the ground without first drilling a well. This method of immersing pipes reduces the possibility of pipe contamination of the aquifer from the surface. Water from the aquifer enters the cavity of the pipes through drillings located in their lower part, closed with a mesh filter. The ground part of the wells protrudes above the ground by about 1 m and is a block mounted on the surface, equipped with a water tap and a handle for driving the pump located inside the column. The flow rate of such a plant is usually about 1.5-2 m3/day.

The simplicity of the device, as well as the compactness of the equipment of small tube wells, make it possible to use them for organizing field water supply (zero camps, expeditions, military conditions). The quality of water obtained from shallow tube wells varies greatly depending on their depth, soil characteristics and the degree of soil contamination.

Used to extract water from deep interstratal aquifers. A variety of them are artesian wells, which are constructed by drilling wells to aquifers, where water is under pressure due to the specific location of aquifers and aquifers. The depth of artesian wells is not limited by the lifting capabilities of pumps and can sometimes reach several hundred meters with pipe diameters up to 400 mm. Sometimes the water pressure in the interstratal horizons is insufficient for it to reach the surface of the earth. In such cases, special devices are used. Artesian wells, as well as drilling wells using water lifts, are often used for centralized water supply; The water in them is of a fairly high degree of purity.

Designed to improve the quality of water taken from open reservoirs. It is a shaft well dug a few meters from the reservoir (depending on the nature of the soil).

The depth of the infiltration well should be approximately 1 m below the water level in the reservoir. Water enters it from a reservoir, passing through a layer of soil, as a result of which its quality improves. If the soil near a reservoir is poorly permeable to water, then sometimes a filtration trench is opened between the reservoir and the infiltration well, which is filled with porous, well-filtering material. The equipment of the infiltration well must meet all the requirements for a shaft well.

It is a shaft well reaching the aquifer. It is used to remove liquid waste. The waste is gradually absorbed into the aquifer. Absorption wells can be a source of contamination of aquifers.

Choosing a place

First of all, we decide on the location. Wetlands and areas inundated by flood waters are not suitable for this purpose. Be careful if there are quarries, workings, adits, abandoned wells nearby - when the soil moves, the well trunk may bend. It is unacceptable to place a well near highways or places where pesticides are stored. The highest and cleanest place on the site is allocated for it - as far as possible from the toilet, shower, compost pits.

Once upon a time, our ancestors determined the location of water by signs: they looked closely at where it lay in warm evening fog, where mosquitoes and midges hover, marked the places where the first thawed patches appeared in the spring. But we must admit that these signs with one hundred percent certainty signal only the presence of perched water.

Choosing a time

Many teams and companies undertake to dig wells in any season. Snow melting times should still be excluded. Best period- autumn and winter (until March), when the groundwater level is lowest. But there are some tricks here too. For example, when constructing small wells on sandy loam soils, work can begin only from the beginning of June: flood waters will seep through the soil to the aquifers throughout May. In this case, outwardly the earth will look completely dry.

Drill or dig?

If the water lies deep, at a level of 15-20 m from the surface, you have to build a tube well. To do this, they drill a well and lower it into it. steel pipes of different diameters. But if there are a lot of boulders and stones in the soil layers, then excavation will be fraught with great difficulties.
The most common are shaft wells. They are made from stone, wood, monolithic concrete. Nowadays, concrete rings are most often used. This is simpler, cheaper, and does not take much time (usually 3-4 days is enough). The undoubted advantages of such wells are durability, reliability, and hygiene. Their depth is not determined by the wishes of the customer, but depends on the depth of the first aquifer from the surface and usually does not exceed 10 m. Digging to greater depths is both difficult and expensive. The second factor is the amount of water inflow. If the water flows slowly, the miners can manage to install 2-3 rings in the aquifer, but if the water flows so quickly that the pump does not have time to pump it out, they limit themselves to one ring. The structure of mine wells is simple: the upper part, called the head, the shaft and the water intake part.

How it's done

Usually wells are dug by hand, as they have been dug for centuries. A team of two or three people is equipped only with a shovel, a crowbar and a sledgehammer to break stones. Having installed the winch, the workers take turns filling the bucket with soil and lifting it to the surface. The stones are split or dug out entirely. First, select the ground for the first ring, install it, and place the next one above it. They dig from below and put rings on top. They fall down under their own weight, sliding along the walls of a cylindrical shaft. In this way, the well is passed through until water appears. Before entering the aquifer, the two lower seams between the rings are sealed from the inside with sand- cement mortar. Later this can no longer be done. Once the solution has set, work can continue.

Meeting with water

When springs appear, the water begins to flow at such a speed that it is no longer possible to cope with it, they stop digging and install rings. In quicksand* the water column is usually 60-80 cm, but this is quite enough (due to the high filtration coefficient). Having completed the construction of the trunk, the seams between the rings from the inside are sealed with cement mortar. This cannot be done before, since during the penetration process the rings are somewhat displaced relative to each other.

For filtration, a layer of well-washed granite crushed stone or gravel 20-30 cm thick is poured onto the bottom. In quicksand, a wooden bottom made of aspen logs, split in half, is placed on the bottom, and gravel is poured on top. If the water is filtered naturally, the well can be filled both through the bottom and through the side holes and cracks. But in clayey soils it is necessary to ensure that it flows only through the bottom.

When the well is ready, its trunk is washed - the dirt is washed away - and the so-called pumping is carried out: the water is completely pumped out with a pump.

1. Gate 2. Head 3. Blind area 4. Crushed stone 5. Clay castle 6. Trunk 7. Water level 8. Gravel 9. Water intake part 10. Underlying waterproof rock

Achieving tightness

The upper part of the well is raised above the ground 0.7-1 m, installing one ring. The joint between the underground part and the upper ring is carefully sealed with cement. Unfortunately, when the soil freezes, these seams often open, leading to loss of tightness.

The ground around the well settles for a while, and you have to add soil, then gravel, and sand. The well will be protected from rain and spring floods by a waterproof castle made of compacted clay. When the ground has completely settled, a blind area is built with a slope from the well, and a canopy house is installed. Only the most avid conservatives continue to rattle a chain with a bucket, extracting water; they try to equip most wells with pumps and pipes that deliver water both to the beds and to the house.

Is it worth digging yourself?

There are no licenses for the construction of wells; sometimes work is carried out without contracts and warranty obligations. But this does not mean that any person is able to dig a well on his own. This is hard physical work, dangerous work with a high degree of risk, which can only be carried out in compliance with technology and safety precautions. For example, at a depth of 3 m the temperature reaches only 10 ° C, gas poisoning is possible. If quicksand is encountered, the ring can “move” to the side and injure the digger.

Problems

The most common complaint is that the well has become shallow. This happens if it was dug up at the wrong time.

Sometimes a well serves well for several years, and then dries up - long-term fluctuations in groundwater levels, which can reach one and a half meters, are to blame. In sandy soils, the well is deepened by 1-2 m with rings of the same diameter. In clayey ones, where the well trunk is gradually compressed tightly, it is necessary to use rings of smaller diameter.

If little water is drawn from a well, it stagnates and its content increases. minerals, which deteriorates its quality.

Is the well dirty? This means that the seam between the rings has torn. This happens if there was a defect during work. Seams can also become eroded when snow melts. You can eliminate the mess by re-sealing the seams.

Quicksand - A water-saturated dough-like mass of fine sand with fluidity. In other words, liquid mud. When building a well, they try to get through this dangerous layer as quickly as possible.

Previously, in Russia, the land of forests, wells were made of wood. They dug them for several yards or for the entire village. In northern Russian villages you can still see wells cut down in the last and even the century before last. They last so long because they were made from species that do not rot in water for a long time: oak, larch, pine, aspen. Logs, short thick logs, were hewn “in the paw.” The frame was assembled on the surface, then lowered into the dug shaft in separate crowns.

Let us consider the construction of a tube well using the example of a relatively complex well, typical of the northern part of the Moscow region, where there are boulder-pebble deposits many meters thick. The stones of these deposits, densely “packed” with strong loam, present exceptional difficulty for drilling a well with homemade tools and homemade equipment. Moreover, the well has to be drilled to a depth of 20–50 m. But all these difficulties can be overcome, and in the Moscow region more than one tube well has been built by self-construction and is in operation.

They first try to make the well for such a tube well (Fig. 17) as large as possible in diameter, usually 300–350 mm. Since the stones lie on top, under a two-meter layer of clay, it is sometimes easier to lift the stone to the surface through such a hole than to crush it in the face. The casing pipe for this first well is made from any available material, even from boards or roofing tin. After drilling through the boulder-pebble deposits, the well begins to be drilled for the main casing pipe.

The lower end of the casing pipe is lowered to the upper part of the aquifer, and another pipe is placed below - a filter with a sump.

Depending on the depth of the aquifer, its structure and the nature of the overlying rocks, the tube well may differ from that shown in Fig. 17 design of the water intake part, and also have only one casing pipe.

Some tube wells also include parts for connecting water lift pumps.

A tube well, if properly constructed and properly maintained, will provide water supply personal plot no worse than a mine one and will not be inferior to it in durability. In addition, it does not allow surface contamination to pass through at all, provided that the joints of the casing pipe are tight and the water does not stagnate in it due to the small volume of the water intake part. This is also facilitated by the fact that an ordinary bucket is not lowered into it, but the water is raised with a pump. Using simple drilling equipment under favorable geological conditions, a tube well can often be built faster (in just 2-3 days or even a few hours) and to a greater depth than a mine well. It is relatively easy to build, say 25–30 m deep, 50 m or more. But all this is only in the case when the rocks that need to be drilled have, as they say, good drillability.

Rice. 17. Construction of a tube well with a large number of boulders: 1 - auxiliary casing pipe; 2 - main casing pipe; 3 - coupling; 4 - oil seal; 5 - mesh; 6 - settling tank; 7 - plug

There are a great variety of rocks that make up the earth’s crust, but for the drilling process it is not their structure that is important, but such characteristics as density, hardness, and stability. Based on this, all rocks based on drillability can be divided into three groups: plastic, capable of cutting and producing chips; hard, which can only crush and split; free-flowing, characterized by instability, the ability to slide, crumble and fill the well drilled in them. Drilling practice has accordingly developed three types of working drilling tools.

Therefore, before starting the construction of a tube well, it is necessary to collect the most complete information possible about the nature of the rocks that will have to be passed through in order to reach the aquifer. Solid stone layers or boulder-pebble deposits significantly complicate the matter, especially when they lie at a depth of 10 m or more. These rocks present a formidable obstacle; overcome them with the help of homemade instrument exceptionally difficult. And in order to break through such rocks, you will need more serious equipment and tools. We advise you to first read everything that is written here about tube wells, and then again carefully weigh whether it is worth “fencing” such equipment and making a well through a stone belt. But is it easier to build a shaft well?

Tube (drill) wells (Fig. below) consist of a well, which is performed by rotary or percussion drilling, which depends on the rock (soil). It is best to bury such wells into the rock to a depth of at least 10 m. To construct tube wells, pipes and special drilling tools are required. They build drilled wells much faster than mine ones, i.e. in 5-7 days; with a drilling depth of up to 20 m, it takes 30-60 days to construct a shaft well of such depth. In addition, their cost is 4-5 times cheaper than mine ones. Drill wells are closed from the outside. Water from them is supplied by pumps, which is more hygienic compared to lifting water with a tub or bucket. Equipment for the construction of tube wells:

Tube wells: a - pile driver and its parts: 1 - pile driver legs; 2 - rod; 3 - top assembly of the pile driver; b - drilling using a pile driver: 1 - balancer (lever); 2 - rope; 3 - rod; c - removal of pipes using levers: 1 - tragus; 2 - levers; 3 - clamp; 4 - pipe; g - rope loop for rolling up and unfolding pipes; d - clamps for pipe rotation

To equip tube wells, you need a pile driver (tripod or tower), tools, pipes, filters, etc. (see figure). Headframes, tripods or towers consist of three logs with a diameter of 13 to 18 cm at the thin end (cut), 8-9 m long. The logs must be straight and without knots. For large-diameter wells, the pile driver can be made of four legs. The distance between the legs is at least 2 m. The ends of the legs are buried in the ground. The height of the pile driver mainly depends on the length casing pipes, drilling depths, etc. At the top, the thin ends of the pile driver are fastened with a pin with a head and a nut with a diameter of at least 35 mm. An earring for a single-roller rope block is attached to the kingpin. At a height of 2.5-3 m from the ground, a flooring is made of 50-60 mm boards on the crossbars of the tripod, on which workers can be located during drilling.

Instead of a flooring, long nails or staples can be used to attach crossbars to lift workers to the top of the tripod. A gate is attached between the two legs of the pile driver, which is necessary for raising and lowering pipes and rods. To lift pipes that are strongly held by rock, balancers are used, that is, levers with a drilling rope attached to them through a block. The balancer can also be used in percussion drilling. It is recommended to lift or simply tear the pipes off the rock with two or three levers, placing trestles under them. A clamp is attached to the pipe to stop the levers. By rearranging the clamp, the pipe is lifted. Clamps come in steel and wood. They are used for rotating, landing and lifting casing pipes and rods. Steel ones are made from strip steel, wooden ones are made from hardwood without knots, with a diameter of 180-250 mm, a length of 2.5-3 m. Recesses for pipes are made at the thick ends of the wood. The halves of the clamps are tightened with two or four massive bolts, preferably with tape threads and wing nuts. Chain wrenches are used for screwing and unscrewing pipes (i.e. pipe columns) different sizes. When there are no keys, a rope loop is used, which is wound onto the pipes in five or six turns. Two rope loops are installed on the pipes: one to hold one pipe, the other to rotate the other. Set up a loop like this. Take the end of a rope or thin cable 2-3 m long and wind it in two turns around the pipe. Then one end is lowered down along the pipe by 500-800 mm. The upper end of the rope is wound onto the pipe and five to six downward turns are made along the end lowered along the pipe. A crowbar or wag (a block or tree trunk 2-3 m long) is inserted into the loop. When you press on them, the loop begins to tighten, tightly pressing the turns to the pipe, and the pipe is rotated in the desired direction. The second loop holds the second pipe of the column, which consists of two or more pipes. In addition, you need to use forks, hooks, swivels for hanging pipes or rods, clamps, etc.

The drilling tool has different names, diameter, length and weight, it is used for drilling various rocks. The entire drilling tool has a top head with a tapered thread, which is easy to screw in.

Drilling tools: 1 - drill spoons; 2 - coil; 3 - chisel bit; 4 - pyramidal chisel; 5 - bailer; 6 filter; 7 - gear and smooth shoes; 8 - vetlyuga

Drill spoons are used for drilling wells mainly in stable light rocks: clean wet sands; clayey sands; sands with fine gravel; loams and sandy clays. Most often, spoons with a blade and a coil are used (a hollow steel cylinder with a head, threads, and a longitudinal slot along the length of the cylinder). The spoon is made from sheet steel or steel pipes and must be hardened. Spoon bodies come in diameters of 70, 102, 140,198 mm, length 700-750 mm. Designed for casing pipes with an internal diameter of 78, 115, 155, 205 mm. A coil (spiral drill) is used for drilling wells in clays and loams containing a certain amount of gravel. Consists of a head with a cone-shaped thread and several spiral turns ending at the bottom of the blade. The spiral pitch is equal to the diameter of the coil. The coil is hardened to the height of the spiral. They are made from strip steel of the required grade and viscosity. The strip is heated to white heat, clamped in a vice and curled using a wrench. The coil is made as one-piece forged. Welding is not allowed. Coils come in diameters of 70, 104, 140 mm, and lengths of 650, 700, 820 mm, respectively. The bits are used for percussion drilling in hard rocks. There are different types and names: chisels, pyramidal, flat, cross, etc. They consist of a blade, a neck, and a conical thread. The bottom edge is called the blade. Forged from a single piece of strong steel and hardened. During operation, to round the wellbore, the bits must be rotated at an angle of 15-20° after each blow. The chisel has a lower base measuring 45, 60, 75, 85 mm, and a blade length of 258, 260, 290 mm.

There are bailers different types. Simple and piston ones are widely used. Serve mainly for extraction from wells by impact drilled rock, as well as for drilling loose and loose rocks. The body of the bailer is made from a casing or gas pipe 2-3 m long. At the top there is a thread and a fork for attaching to the rope, at the bottom there is a steel shoe with a valve. The lower part of the shoe is made sharp, with a diameter 4-6 mm larger than the outer diameter of the bailer body. A simple bailer has a valve in the form of a steel disk or ball.

Speakers come with outer case diameters of 89, 95, 127, 168, 219 mm, respectively, weighing 25, 30, 47, 64, 96 kg. They are designed to work in casing pipes with an internal diameter of 104, 115, 155, 205, 225 mm. Drill spoons, coils and bailers must be made to a certain length. This is explained by the fact that during the drilling process, operations alternate: the tool is lowered, drilled and removed from the well, cleared of rock, inserted back, drilled, removed, cleaned, etc. This takes a lot of time. With short tools, the time spent on performing the operation increases by 2-3 times. Filters are used to filter the water entering the pump. They are different designs and length. Made from copper or stainless materials, gravel, etc. Hole filter without mesh - a perforated steel pipe with round holes with a diameter of 10-20 mm, drilled in a checkerboard pattern, the total area of the filter should be approximately 20-25% of the total surface of the pipe. Installed in unstable rock or large-block loose rocks.
Pipes are taken with a diameter of 76, 102, 152 mm, respectively, with holes with a diameter of 12, 16, 18 mm, with a distance between them of 30, 35, 40 mm. A steel slot filter is a steel pipe on which rectangular holes are cut in a checkerboard pattern (slots 1.5 to 3 mm wide, 26 to 100 mm long). A wire-wound filter is a perforated pipe with a support wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm welded along its length, onto which steel wire with a thickness of 1.5 to 2 mm is wound so that there are no gaps between the turns. Everything is secured by welding. Thus, between the pipe and the winding there remains a space equal to the thickness of the support wire. A mesh filter is a perforated pipe with a supporting brass wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm, on top of which a mesh is fixed. The support wire is wound onto the tube in a spiral every 15-30 mm turn from turn. Everything is secured with separate points by embossing.

Red copper mesh comes with holes from 0.10 to 0.50 mm, running size is 0.25 mm. The holes should be 2 times smaller than the diameter of the grains of sand. The length and thickness of the filters are different. Used for various sands, except homogeneous fine-grained and clayey ones.

There are two types of gravel filters. The first is to pour gravel into the well after its construction, the second is to lower a perforated pipe or mesh filter, which is sprinkled with grain as the casing pipes rise. The gravel grain is taken 10-12 times larger than the diameter of the aquifer sand. The diameter of the filters is taken such that they can freely descend into the casing pipe or drilled well without a casing pipe. Rod - special rolled steel pipes with thickened walls in general and especially at the ends. They are connected to each other with steel couplings. Tools are attached to the rods to perform rotary or percussion drilling. Pipes must be very strong in compression, tension, and torsion. The normal length of rods is 3 m, but there are short rods 1, 1.5, 2 m long. Rods connected together are called a column. At the initial stage of drilling a well being drilled, short pipes are very convenient.

For drilling small-diameter wells up to 30 m deep, you can use conventional steel gas pipes or water pipes, which are fastened together into columns, preferably not with ordinary, but with steel couplings. The length of the couplings should be equal to twice the diameter of the pipe. Conventional couplings are of little use. You can use steel bars of square or round cross-section, as well as trunks of young trees (oak, ash, spruce, larch), but only for impact drilling with preliminary strengthening of the ends with steel. The impact rod is made of mild steel and is used to increase the mass of the tool. Has an internal thread for securing the tool. The rod length is 2-2.5 m, weight is up to 200 kg. Casing pipes for medium and deep drilling are made from steel of varying quality; they must be completely smooth and without dents. They are used to prevent collapses of the well walls when passing through unstable rocks, as well as to isolate aquifers with water unsuitable for consumption. Used for impact and rotary drilling. They are connected to each other with steel couplings. When drilling pipes into rock, shoes are used, made in the form of couplings with a lower toothed or smooth cutting edge. The toothed shoe is used for rotary drilling of hard rocks. Its internal diameter should be equal to the internal diameter of the pipe, and the outer diameter should be 3-5 mm larger than the outer diameter of the couplings of the same pipes; the teeth bend outward by the same amount. A smooth shoe is similar to a toothed one, only its lower cutting edge is wedge-shaped. A pipe with such a shoe is upset by blowing a wooden mallet onto a driving head screwed onto the upper end of the casing pipe. When drilling with a tripod, it is necessary to have a windbreaker - a steel rod cut to the caliber of rods or casing pipes and stitched for lifting.

Drilling a well. Before you start drilling, you need to know the nature of the rock (soil) and prepare the tool in accordance with it. With rod shock-rotational manual drilling Wells with a depth of up to 20 m and a diameter of up to 76 mm can be worked without a tripod. However, it is more convenient with a tripod. The work can be done by three or four people. The drilling technique consists of first digging a hole, lowering a tool into it, drilling, removing or extracting a column with a tool using a winch or winch. The next rod is extended when the end of the previous one is no more than 1 m above the ground level. During the drilling process, every 500-700 mm the tool is deepened into the rock, it is removed for cleaning. In this way, the well is drilled to the end and, if necessary, casing pipes are installed. When shallow drilling of a well is carried out without a tripod, it is more convenient to use short rods 1, 1.5 and 2 m long. When drilling, the rod with a tool or casing is directed into the well strictly vertically.

The first stage of drilling is called drilling. In this case, usually two people rotate the drill, and a third one checks its verticality with a plumb line. It's easier and more convenient to do it this way. At the drilling site, a pit of 1.5 x 1.5 m with a depth of 2-3 m or deeper is dug. The walls of the pit are reinforced with boards. Two strong linings are placed on its bottom and firmly secured with stakes. Two or four thick 50-60 mm boards are placed on the pads and secured with long nails. They do the same over the pit and lay the floor from the same boards. If a tripod is installed, then pass a weight through its block, find the center point on the floor and cut a round hole equal to the outer diameter of the rod couplings or casing shoe, if it is installed first. We use a weight to find the center or point on the boards laid at the bottom of the pit, and cut exactly the same hole. Since the boards are well reinforced, the rod or casing placed in the hole will be strictly vertical and will facilitate drilling a vertical well. In stable rock, a well can be drilled to the full depth without casing or to the entire length of the casing. In unstable rocks, first drill an initial well to a depth of 1 m or more (this is better), lower a casing pipe with a shoe there, screwing or driving it.

To wrap it, a clamp is attached to the pipe at a height of 1-1.5 m from the ground surface. Drilling is performed in small jerks, rotating the pipe or drill clockwise. The shoe cuts the hole, which helps lower the pipe. If the casing pipe does not fall due to normal shocks, then it is first rotated counterclockwise, then along its course. As the well fills with rock, the pipe settlement stops. The well has to be cleared of rock with a bailer. When rotating a rod with a tool or a casing pipe, workers do not walk around it, but pass the handles of the articulated clamp to each other. It is not recommended to lengthen the ends of the clamps to facilitate rotation. This may cause the pipes to become twisted. Depending on the quality of the soil, often the first casing is not screwed in, but driven in. Subsequently, the drilling tool is used inside the casing pipes, alternating operations: first they drill, then remove the tool, clear it of rock, then insert it into the pipe, drill, remove it, clear it of rock, etc. Before drilling, make a chalk mark on the rod at a height 500-700 mm from the flooring. Drilling is stopped when the mark comes close to the flooring. Then the tool and rod are removed from the hole, cleared of rock, inserted back into the hole, a chalk mark is made, and the process is repeated. As the tool deepens into the rock, the clamp is rearranged so that it is at a height of 1-1.5 m from the flooring. The rods are increased as needed.

Every owner of a private house or cottage has encountered such a problem as insufficient water in the well and deterioration in its quality. Sometimes digging a new well is impossible, and in this case it is advisable to try to deepen the well and thereby revive it. How to do this, using what methods, we will consider in this article.

We deepen the well with our own hands

Every owner land plot dreams of a well with enough drinking water good quality. Sometimes the quality of water changes at one moment and the reason for this may be drying out or a disruption in the flow of water. When you decide to deepen a well, you should weigh your strengths and decide:

look for a team of specialists;
carry out the procedure yourself.

If you are inclined to the second option, you need to know and take into account many nuances. One of the most important requirements is that work should be carried out during a period of calm groundwater. This period begins from the last month of autumn and lasts until mid-winter.

There are two main deepening methods:

filtration;
use of repair rings;
digging (undermining).

When and why to deepen a well

You can go deeper with my own hands, without searching for special teams. If you are confident that you can handle it on your own, you can proceed. The procedure for deepening a well can only be carried out once. Key points to pay attention to before starting the procedure:

well condition;
depth of groundwater;
Possibility of holding the rings with soil.

The maximum possible recess is about three meters deep.

In such cases, it is necessary to deepen the well:

there is no possibility to dig a new well;
the depth of the well with columns is more than eleven rings;
the water is noticeably drying up;
the well is bent;
very high taste qualities water;
The filling capacity of the well has significantly decreased.

If the reason is not temporary, deepening should be considered. If the reason is different, it is more advisable to dig a new well.

Preparing to deepen the well

There are several reasons why the water level drops:

the weather is very hot with complete absence rain;
a nearby artesian well.

Before starting to deepen a well, you should analyze the condition of the well, check the ability of the soil to hold rings and find out the level of groundwater. When all objective reasons have been analyzed, you can begin to deepen the well. If you do not assess the condition of the well, then all the time and physical costs will be useless. You should take into account the fact that the procedure for deepening a well may cost more than digging a new well.

For deepening you will need the following equipment, which must be prepared and tested in advance. The following items are required for deepening:

powerful pump, it is better to prepare two pumps;
shovel with a short handle;
three - four buckets;
a winch capable of lifting about five hundred kilograms;
lifting block;
rope-ladder;
jackhammer;
lighting, preferably a headdress with an LED light bulb, this will help leave your hands free;
rubber shoes and boots, a helmet to protect the head.

To carry out the deepening procedure, you must proceed in the following order:

remove the top of the well, the ground part - this will allow free access to the well;
pump out all the water - you will need powerful pumps, deep well pump will help you do this faster than manually pumping water with buckets;
it is necessary to strengthen the seams in the well, perhaps silt and sand enter through them;
it is necessary to clean the bottom; for this, use a shovel and buckets.

Drilling is permissible if the length of the well is no more than sixteen concrete rings and if the displacement between them is insignificant. Before starting work, staple the edges of the column to prevent tearing.

The work of deepening is quite labor-intensive and dangerous. Without special knowledge and experience, it is better not to engage in this work. When deciding to do everything yourself without involving specialists, you should theoretically study the rules, stages of work and safety precautions.

Deepening a well by digging

To deepen a well using the digging method, you should prepare the necessary clothing, tools, and materials. It is necessary to carry out work in the company of three to four people. The procedure requires insurance for whoever will be working inside the mine. Working alone is extremely dangerous.

After dismantling the above-ground part of the well, it is necessary to strengthen the inter-concrete connections with brackets. This can be done with bolts and plates, as well as brackets and fittings. It is always advisable to do this, but especially when there is a threat from a swimmer. The float falls into the shaft due to the displacement of the rings.

The deepening algorithm can be described as follows:

pump or manually scoop water from the well;
Having carefully secured the rope ladder, lower it into the well shaft;
the person is secured with a safety rope and only after that is lowered to the bottom;
dig under the first ring,
with the help of a winch the earth rises to the top;
Under the weight of the structure of the upper concrete rings, subsidence occurs, making it possible to install new rings.

The process of undermining is quite dangerous and requires accuracy, well-coordinated teamwork and the right actions.

going deeper inside, springs are discovered that will become the source of water in the new, repaired well;
At the end of the work, a bottom filter made of crushed stone and gravel is installed.

If the depth of the mine is more than ten meters, it is better to invite specialists; the work can be dangerous for a non-professional.

Recess using rings

The method of deepening a well using rings of smaller diameter is considered very effective. After performing the same manipulations to remove water and restore the integrity of the rings, it is necessary to use rings of a smaller diameter. They are dug into the mine, gradually going deeper. The gap between the main rings and the repair ones can be sealed with stones and filled with smaller pebbles.

The algorithm for digging a well is as follows:

the bottom filter and the top layer of soil are removed;
they begin to dig a tunnel for a new ring;
to make it heavier, add another ring, which is removed later;
after installing the new ring, it is necessary to attach it to the main one; for this, staples are used;
Upon completion of installation, the seams are sealed with a special solution and the bottom of the well is covered with a new bottom filter: pebbles, stones, gravel.

Filter recess

Sometimes this method gives the most best result. To deepen a well using a filter, you need a pipe about a meter long and with a diameter of more than fifty centimeters. Covered with a mesh of of stainless steel and drive it into the bottom of the well and try to plant this filter deeper.

Cleaning the well after deepening

After completion of the deepening, the well should be cleaned and disinfected. To do this, perform the following manipulations:

Sodium hypochloride is used specifically for drinking water supply. The walls of the well should be treated with it. Treatment with a high pressure washer (Kärcher) is recommended.
All mechanical damage, chips, cracks must be repaired using waterproofing, liquid glass, cement mortar.
A thick layer of crushed stone or gravel at the bottom of the well will act as a bottom filter and help consolidate the soil.

Bottom filter: when, how and why

A bottom filter will help make the water clean, transparent and tastier. It will also help the flow of water and strengthen the soil. There is no need to install a filter in each well; installing a filter for no reason may have the opposite effect: the amount of water will decrease and the quality will deteriorate. First you need to find out the quality of the bottom of the well, it happens:

dense, made of clay;
loose, made of clay;
sandy;
muddy, quicksand.

If the bottom of the well is dense clay, the water seeping through the soil is filtered efficiently. In this case, a bottom filter is not needed, and its installation will impede the flow of water.

The loose clay bottom does not require a filter either. It is advisable to simply fill the bottom with large crushed stone.

Sandy bottom is a bottom option that requires the installation of a bottom filter. With any movement, sand easily rises from the bottom and falls into a bucket or pump. The water quality is not high. Here there is a need for a bottom filter at several levels.

Quicksand is a silty mixture of sand, water and clay elements. The most difficult case, a bottom filter is necessary, but can only help for a while. Without complex engineering design with metal mesh and shields, the bottom filter will eventually fall down and be absorbed by the floater.

There are several types of bottom filter:

triple backfill, large crushed stone, pebbles, alternating large fractions on the bottom, smaller ones on top, small elements placed on top;
triple backfill, the smallest elements at the bottom, slightly larger ones on top, everything is covered with the largest fragments of gravel or crushed stone.

What if it’s quicksand?

When manipulating to deepen a well, you may encounter such a difficult situation as a floater. In the ground, a mixture of sand, silt, clay and water, being in a confined space, poses a great threat when introduced into this space. The floater moves - rapidly and unexpectedly large mass water under high pressure penetrates into the well shaft. The size of the swimmer ranges from two to nine meters. There are known cases when, while working in a well, a worker stumbled upon a floater and died.

If a floater occurs, it is advisable to refuse to restore the well. If this is not possible, you need to wait for a period of severe frost and try to deepen the well.

Sometimes the floater is so insignificant that it does not affect the deepening process in any way and you can continue to carry out further actions. By continuing to dig and installing rings, an aquifer will appear.

Sometimes the situation develops in such a way that the rings do not fall, although the digging continues and rises a large number of land. You should stop work and leave the mine; the following will most likely happen:

the movement will begin reinforced concrete rings, and they will move to the side;
vertical deformation of the rings occurs;
voids appear with outside wells;
An extremely dangerous situation threatens human life and health.

Problematic situations when lowering rings

When deepening, situations occur when the rings do not lower. In this case, you can try the following methods:

Drilling around the entire circumference of the upper ring requires a drill about one meter long and attachments for it. Due to its ability not to deform or fly off, the drill is extended with a thick-walled pipe. After the entire area around the upper ring has been processed, you should compact this area and try to force the ring down by applying weight to it. You can use the services of a truck crane.
The next method is to use aspen boards. Cover the circumference of the well with these boards, and their length should correspond to the depth of the well.

Sealing methods

When replacing rings or simply for repairs, you have to seal the seams through which water and silt seep. The seams must be sealed carefully and efficiently so that there are no problems with the well’s tightness. Reasons why depressurization occurs:

an ordinary solution deteriorates over time under the influence of water and temperature changes;
the soil “moves”;
the upper rings may mix under the influence of low temperatures;
violation of construction technology.

This causes not only destruction of the joints, but also cracks in the rings themselves. Sand, silt, dirty water, water quality is declining. To avoid such a situation, it is necessary to properly seal the joints. The technology for sealing dry and wet joints is fundamentally different.

Before work, you must do the following:

treat the walls of the well, clean them from dirt and silt using water pressure and lips;
remove crumbling cement, clean what is loose and does not hold;
widen the seams;
make sure that the rings are not beveled relative to each other;
connect them with staples.

Dry joints can be sealed with cement mortar, but under the influence of high or low temperatures it can collapse. To prevent destruction, liquid glass should be added.

Drilling a well at home requires compliance with safety precautions and knowledge of the algorithm for carrying out this process.