Popularity styling solid board received thanks to the strength of the material. Externally, it has a lot in common with parquet board, but consists entirely of wood.

This type of flooring is more durable and practical, more resistant to external aggressive factors, and can withstand more grinding and loads.

You need to start installing solid boards at the very last stage of the repair. To avoid problems, it is recommended to study the features of the material, learn more about installation methods, etc.

Preparing a solid foundation is one of the important stages technologies for laying solid boards.

Installation can be carried out on a variety of coatings:

• Cement-concrete or concrete screed;
• Plywood;
• Natural wood;
• On the logs;
• On the staples.

The most common method is laying solid boards on concrete or cement screed.

Installation is carried out using an adhesive composition that is resistant to temperature changes and safe for humans.

If you choose to lay a solid board on a screed, it is checked for strength and the absence of various damages (irregularities, chips and cracks).

No less popular is laying solid boards on plywood. But underneath it there must be an additional vapor barrier layer.

The humidity of the material should not be more than 10%. Fixation is carried out using two-component glue; side fastenings are made with pins for an air gun every 30 cm.

It is considered traditional to lay solid boards on logs, which are placed during reconstruction work.

The work is carried out in the shortest possible time and there is no need to use cement mixtures. A layer of waterproofing based on polyethylene film or penofol is laid under the logs.

The laying of solid boards on brackets is very interesting. This method is classified as floating; it allows you to save on carrying out installation work up to 30-40%.

Aluminum products should be mounted together with silicone expansion joints, which improve the connection at the ends.

Often, laying solid boards with your own hands is done on an existing wooden flooring. But you need to make sure that the old base is reliable, its humidity does not exceed 8-10%.

Extra layers paint coatings remove and the surface is carefully sanded to eliminate all possible irregularities.

The direction of installation of the solid board should coincide with the direction of the old flooring. Self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion coating are used as fasteners.

Having learned in more detail about the various methods of laying solid boards, the most optimal one is selected.

Preparatory work

You need to prepare the following tool for laying solid boards:

1. Drawing supplies (metal ruler, pencil, scriber);
2. Putty knife;
3. Carpenter's square;
4. Pneumatic stapler;
5. Screwdriver;
6. Drill;
7. Wooden mallet;
8. Self-tapping screws.

They do not rust and smooth out the effects of seasonal fluctuations. You should not use special parquet nails.

Brackets for laying solid stainless steel boards can be mounted below.

They are snapped into a groove or screwed using screws with reverse side and securely fix the two elements together.

Laying solid wood parquet on a concrete surface requires mandatory preparation.

Direct contact between them should not be allowed, as it will reduce the life of the floor covering.

A gasket is created between the planes using a primer mastic and a vapor barrier film. The gaps at the joints must be securely sealed.

Before answering the question of how to properly lay a solid board, you need to prepare the building material.

It must acclimatize by lying indoors for up to 6-7 days. The products are placed on a stand to ensure normal air circulation.

For those who have already dealt with flooring, it will not be difficult to carry out the work of laying solid boards yourself. If you feel unsure of your abilities, you need to turn to a master.

Now let’s take a closer look at how to lay a solid board and what rules are recommended to be followed.

Features of installation on plywood or wood flooring

Laying plywood under a solid board, which must be securely fastened to the main base, has its own characteristics.

Before installation, plywood sheets are cut into strips 0.5-0.6 m wide.

A vapor barrier layer must be laid between the concrete and plywood coverings. After sanding, you can begin installing the solid board.

Two-component glue and pins for side fastening are used as a connecting link.

Solid boards can be laid on plywood using a floating method. The peculiarity of the method is that the board and base are separated, and fastening is carried out using solid dies.

This method is optimal for underfloor heating systems, which compensates for changes in temperature and humidity.

Installing a solid plank floor on an old wooden surface has a lot in common. But this method is considered justified only if the basis is reliable.

The floor that is in doubt must be dismantled, as it will have a negative impact on the array.

It has already been mentioned that it is better to use a two-component adhesive for laying solid boards based on polyurethane. But it can be replaced with a one-component MS-polymer composition.

Features of laying solid boards

Having studied the options for laying solid boards and choosing the most suitable one, preparing the base, it’s time to start installation.

The technology has a lot in common with laying laminate flooring and all the work can be done with your own efforts.

It is necessary to clearly understand the rules for laying solid boards so that problems do not arise in the future.

If after several tests the result seems unsatisfactory, you should think about it and hire a construction team that does the full range of turnkey work.

As a rule, the layout of a solid board involves screwing in self-tapping screws in increments of 25-30 cm.

It is necessary to drill a hole on the tenon side of the board to prevent splits.

Laying solid floor boards on a solid base is done using a special two-component adhesive.

An alternative option is elastinol or a backing with one adhesive side.

It has soundproofing and thermal insulation properties, which is why it has gained popularity in multi-storey buildings.

The first row should be laid with a groove facing the wall. It is fixed along the front part, which is covered with a plinth.

Laying massive parquet boards of large size (width 15 cm or more), fixing is done from the front side.

The cap must be pushed 8-10 mm deep, and the hole must be closed using a special plug made of a similar rock.

Many may be interested in instructions for laying solid boards on joists. It is recommended to use timber measuring from 5x7 to 6x10 cm. However, its humidity should be no more than 10%.

The logs are attached to the base using dowels or anchor bolts. The distance between the fasteners is 40-50 cm.

In this case, the lags are laid strictly perpendicular to the direction of the board and at intervals of 25-30 cm. Insulation is spread into the space between the beams.

Prices for services

If someone decides to turn to professionals, they should find out what the cost of laying solid boards is.

It may vary and depend on the scope of work, materials used and the number of steps required.

The market average cost of laying solid boards is (relative to walls, per sq. m.):

• Perpendicular - from 500 rubles;
• At an angle - from 600 rubles.

Taking into account the cost of preparation, the price of installing a solid board can reach 1,500 rubles per sq. m. m.

A solid board is a finishing floor covering made from solid hardwood or softwood, in the sides of which the manufacturer provides grooves and ridges for tight joining with adjacent boards. A floor made from solid wood boards has a presentable appearance, retains heat well, is resistant to stress, is durable and environmentally friendly, it is easy to use and, if necessary, tolerates repeated scraping, grinding or polishing. If the installation of solid boards is carried out in strict compliance with the instructions and the original quality of the material complies with technology standards, then a beautiful and durable floor made from it will last for more than one generation.

Durability and high performance characteristics future sex from natural wood depend equally on compliance with the installation instructions and on the original quality of the solid board. In turn, the quality of solid wood boards depends on the following factors:

• quality of raw materials;
• equipping the production line of the manufacturing plant;
• modern technology drying.

Solid board: grooves and ridges are provided in the sides for tight joining with adjacent boards

Conditioned wood for the manufacture of solid floor boards should not contain through holes, knots, mold or rot. From from modern technical equipment The stability of the linear dimensions of the finished product depends on the manufacturer and its adherence to drying technology. In modern woodworking enterprises, wood is dried under high pressures to a minimum moisture content, impregnate it with antiseptics to the full depth, and then artificially bring the humidity to optimal specifications.

In most enterprises, solid wood boards are sanded after drying and several layers of wear-resistant varnish are applied to the surface or coated with oils or wax, and floors made from such boards are ready for use immediately after installation. If finishing natural solid wood floor boards are not made in the factory, they are produced at the final stage after installation.

A high-quality solid board must meet the following criteria:

• humidity - 7-10%;
• thickness - 15-30 mm, but can reach 50 mm;
• width - 100-150 mm;
• length - from 50 cm to 3 meters, sometimes up to 6 m;
• permissible deviations of linear dimensions - no more than 0.5 mm.

The strength and basic mechanical characteristics of the future floor depend on the thickness of the solid board. Most often, boards with a thickness of 20-25 mm are used, but the final choice depends on the type of base for the floor, the type of wood and the purpose of the room.

Types and preparation of substrates for laying

Solid plank floors can be laid in any premises: wooden and stone private houses, as well as in apartments of high-rise brick, panel or monolithic concrete houses. The base for the floor can be:

• reinforced concrete slabs interfloor ceilings;
• load-bearing metal or wooden structures- logs;
• supporting pillars of the first floor of a private house;
• old wooden floors.

In all of these cases, the same technology for laying solid boards is used, but the preparation of each type of base has its own distinctive features.

The concrete base, if required, is leveled using cement-sand screed.

Important: solid wood floors are recommended to be laid on fresh concrete only 2.5-3 months after pouring. The degree of readiness of the base is checked by pressing a small sheet of polyethylene tightly to the surface. If after 48 hours no condensation has settled on the side of the film adjacent to the concrete, the base is suitable for continuing floor laying work.

A vapor barrier layer of foamed polyethylene or soil mastic is laid on a dry and level base. Polyethylene film can be laid overlapping or end-to-end, gluing the panels with construction tape.

Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are laid on top of the vapor barrier layer, pre-sawn along the smaller side into strips 40-60 cm wide. Fragments of the plywood base are laid diagonally or in a checkerboard pattern so that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between them, and a gap of about 10 cm remains between the outer sheet of plywood and the wall. Having laid the plywood base, it is firmly attached to the concrete using screws and dowels based on 15 attachment points per 1 sq.m. The screw heads are recessed to a depth of 3-4 mm.

On concrete base You can lay solid boards no thicker than 25 mm

If soil mastic is used as a vapor barrier layer, the plywood base can be glued. To do this, the mastic is diluted with a solvent to the optimal consistency, applied to the concrete, and prepared sheets of plywood are glued to it, applying glue compatible with the mastic to them.

Important: solid board floors can be laid on a plywood base laid on concrete if its thickness does not exceed 25 mm.

Load-bearing base on joists

A load-bearing base on joists is used when arranging floors in new houses with a very uneven concrete base, floors on supporting pillars on the first floors private houses, and also in cases where it is planned to use solid wood boards with a thickness of more than 25 mm as a finishing coating. Arranging a load-bearing base on logs is very popular, since the structure does not require operations with water, subsequent drying and is installed quite quickly.

Preparing a load-bearing base on joists: laying plywood on an already installed and leveled structure made of joists

Lags are wooden rectangular beams, usually with a cross-section of 50x55 mm and a length of 70-100 cm. They are attached to a concrete or other base with screws and dowels perpendicular to the direction of the future floor board. The lag pitch, as a rule, is 25-30 cm, and the distance between adjacent points of attachment to the base is at least 50 cm.

A layer is laid in the space between the joists mineral wool, which simultaneously performs the function of thermal insulation and noise protection, which is especially important for the first floors. A layer of vapor barrier material is laid on top of the logs and secured with a construction stapler, and finally a subfloor made of moisture-resistant plywood is laid - the basis for laying the boards.

An existing wood floor can serve as a base for laying solid wood flooring if you are confident in its strength. Otherwise, it is better to dismantle it and create a new modern foundation. If there is no doubt, the old floor is sanded with a grinding machine, using a coarse sanding belt, thoroughly cleaned of dust and covered with a waterproofing layer of ordinary or foamed polyethylene.

In this case, the solid board is laid in the same direction as the main floor boards. If a different direction of the finishing coating is intended, a layer of moisture-resistant plywood approximately 12-15 mm thick is laid on top of the sanded existing base floor.

Before laying solid boards, the plywood base is sanded and dust is removed.

Thus, regardless of the design of the floor base, its finishing layer is waterproof plywood. Before laying the final solid wood flooring, the plywood subfloor is sanded with a sander and dust is removed.

Installation methods: glued and glueless

Floor boards made of solid natural wood are laid using adhesive or glueless methods. Using glue, they lay a board made of valuable wood, which, as a rule, is thinner than common wood, and its length rarely exceeds 2 m - the high price affects it. The adhesive method of laying solid boards is also preferable when arranging floors in very large area or a complex irregular contour, as well as in very small areas, for example in the area of ​​doorways and arched openings.

A solid board made of valuable wood, not very thick and not very long, is laid on the glue

When laying with glue, the floorboards of a solid board are glued to the base with a special glue, tightly joined together in the transverse and longitudinal directions and secured to the base at the side joints with self-tapping screws at an angle of 45°, recessing the caps to a depth of 3-5 mm.

A solid natural wood floor glued to the base is resistant to seasonal deformation, durable, and does not require expansion joints. At the same time, it is very capricious at temperatures and humidity levels higher than permissible and is not at all suitable as a finishing floor covering in heating systems"warm floor". Finally, to replace even a small damaged area, you have to completely dismantle the entire floor laid with glue.

A more modern glueless method of laying solid boards is simple to implement and is always used when working with products equipped with locking system"tenon and groove".

On the eve of the start of flooring work, the solid board should be brought into the room, removed from the packaging, stacked and left for 3-5 days. This is necessary for the material to accept temperature and humidity. environment and subsequently did not deform during the use of the floor.

Laying a solid board with your own hands will not create problems even for a non-professional

If the base for the floor is correctly prepared and selected quality material, laying a solid board with your own hands will not create problems even for a non-professional. Manufacturers recommend laying solid wood boards at a relative humidity of no higher than 60% and an air temperature of 10-30°C. Most often, a solid board is laid parallel to the direction of light from the most illuminated window, but any other solutions are possible, for example, diagonally.

Laying the first row of floorboards begins along the very long wall, parallel to the axis of the floor, with the tenon facing the wall, aligned and fixed with self-tapping screws so that they can be covered with a plinth. The side of the board opposite the wall is fixed to the base or joists by screwing a self-tapping screw into the groove at an angle of 45°. Fixation to the base is carried out with wood screws, the length of which should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the board.

Each floorboard must be secured to all contacting joists.

Important: Each floorboard must be secured to all joists with which it comes into contact.

Each next row of boards is laid with a tenon in the groove of the board of the previous row, not forgetting to fasten it to the base with self-tapping screws. To ensure that the floorboards fit together as tightly as possible, they are adjusted using blocks. The last row of boards, like the first, are fixed to the base with self-tapping screws so that they can be hidden under the baseboard. A temperature gap of 8-10 mm is left between the outer rows of floorboards and the walls.

Solid wood finishing

If a solid board with a factory-applied finishing coating was used for the floor, then the floor can be used immediately after installation. In the case of using untreated solid wood boards, the newly laid floor should “settle” for about a week, then it is sanded and coated with two layers of varnish to prevent the wood from drying out or becoming waterlogged.

Natural wood floors are also subject to mandatory sanding if the difference in the thickness of two adjacent boards exceeds the permissible 0.5 mm and is noticeable. The solid board is sanded along the grain using an abrasive belt with a grain size of 0.15 mm. If defects, dents, or burrs appear on the surface of the floorboards during installation, they should be puttied, sanded and only then varnished.

After installation, the solid wood floor is varnished or impregnated with oil- and wax-based compounds.

Fans of natural wood floors can use special oil-wax compositions to coat the wood instead of varnish. Funds based natural oils and wax, unlike varnishes, impregnate the solid board throughout its entire thickness, creating the thinnest surface protective film. This coating effectively accentuates the natural grain of the wood, while protecting it from damage by insects, mold or fungi.

The practicality of solid wood as a floor covering has been proven by centuries of trouble-free service; it is beautiful, effective, and respectable. Despite its venerable age of use, solid wood boards never go out of style and are amenable to any type of processing, including artificial aging, which is so popular among designers when creating interiors in the “vintage” style.

Solid wood board is an absolutely natural, environmentally friendly material. In essence, modern solid plank flooring is a throwback to the old wood flooring, but using completely new technologies.

Solid boards differ from ordinary parquet in that they have protrusions and grooves along the perimeter for a tight connection with each other. In addition, due to the increased thickness, a solid board can withstand a greater number of scrapes, and therefore will last longer. By properly laying such a board and periodically caring for it, you can forget about the problem of flooring for many years.

So, you bought a massive board. All that remains is to place it correctly. It seems that this is complicated - measure it and lay it out. But no! Just because you've spent a significant amount of money on coverings doesn't mean you'll have the perfect floor in your home. Laying solid boards requires precision. The work of laying natural floors is fraught with a lot of interesting nuances.

Unlike “floating” laminate, solid boards should not be deformed under any circumstances. This flooring will last forever. Follow our instructions and you'll have beautiful floors for your grandchildren to run around on.

Laying solid boards will require the following tools:

• roulette
• level
• carpenter's square
• pencil
• circular saw or table saw
• spatulas: regular and serrated
• screwdriver
• grinder
• vacuum cleaner
• pneumatic stapler (optional)
• hammer

Materials:

• solid wood glue
• cement mortar for floor screed
• screws and dowels
• plywood
• solid board

Laying solid boards: technology

1. The technology of laying solid boards requires compliance with a number of conditions. In the room where natural wood flooring is being installed, all “raw” work must be completed. Laying begins with preparing the base. The floor must first be leveled with a mortar screed and dried thoroughly. This required condition, since even a small amount of moisture is detrimental to wooden coverings. Please be patient as the drying process can take up to 20 days.

2. The preparation of the foundation is not completed yet. Next, you should line the floor with plywood. It is desirable that it be moisture resistant and dense enough. For example, if the thickness of a solid board is 20 mm, then the plywood must be at least 15 mm thick. Usually plywood has standard sizes 1.5×1.5 m - in this case it simply needs to be cut into 4 parts. If you bought plywood of non-standard dimensions, you are less fortunate; you will have to use your imagination and cut the material.

3. After cutting the plywood into pieces, lay it staggered, leaving small gaps (3-5 mm) between the individual sheets. Secure each sheet with self-tapping screws and dowels along the perimeter and diagonally (about 25 screws per board). For greater strength, plywood can be additionally glued.

4. The plywood laid in this way is sanded with a parquet machine or by hand.

5. Vacuum the floor thoroughly, especially around the joints.

6. Start laying the floor from the wall. To do this, draw a straight starting line along the wall. It is necessary to leave a gap of 5-10mm wide between the wall and the edge of the laid boards.

Lay the first row without glue. The grooves are connected in the same way as laminate.

Measure and trim, if necessary, the last board.

Natural wood floors, even from the same package, will vary slightly in color, texture or pattern. Take it for granted.

Measure the resulting rows again using a tape measure and level.

Unlike laminate, solid flooring cannot be moved once installed. It is also recommended to first lay all “problem” areas without glue.

8. Mark each row with a pencil and disassemble the boards.

You can make a special template that will make it easy to mark the next rows.

9. To glue solid boards to the floor, only two-component waterless glue is used. It is important! Glue on water based may cause deformation of floors. Dilute the glue according to the instructions.

To distribute the glue evenly, use a regular spatula first, then a notched one.

There shouldn't be too much glue.

10. Hammer the resulting rad using a hammer and a wooden blank.

In order not to spoil the front surface of the floor, the blank for tamping can be cut so that it comes into contact only with the bottom of the board.

11. To make the boards stick better, screw them to the floor with small screws or fix them with nails. The screws are screwed into the ridge at an angle of 40-60 degrees. A pneumatic stapler can also be used for these purposes.

12. Lay out the remaining floor in the same way.

13. Wait until the floor is completely dry - it is ready.

We hope that the technology for laying solid boards, described in our master class, will help you get beautiful, smooth floors without cracks or gaps.

The laying of solid boards is carried out at the final stage of the renovation of the room. This will minimize the risk of damage and deformation. Therefore, work on installing solid wood floors should begin only after windows, doors and walls have been installed, the subfloor has been prepared and all wet work has been completed.

It is very important that the wallpaper, plaster, paint, concrete dry thoroughly, and the humidity in the room does not exceed 40-60%. At the same time, the humidity of solid boards should not be more than 12%.

However, the last remark about the humidity of a solid board at 12% is purely theoretical, because you still cannot reduce it and this indicator reflects the quality of production. According to our studies of products on the market, the moisture content of solid oak or ash boards (and other European species) is 12-15%, and exotic breeds, the wood of which is processed in tropical countries, about 18%. This is partly why European breeds are initially more stable in our climate.

It is mandatory that all existing air conditioning and heating systems in the room be activated before laying solid wood planks. The air temperature must be maintained within 18-22 °C for at least seven days before laying the solid boards.

If laying solid boards is planned on the first floor directly above the basement, then it should be thoroughly ventilated.

Requirements for the quality of a subfloor under a solid board

The subfloor on which the parquet boards will be laid must be as level as possible, which can be achieved using leveling sanding. The maximum permissible deviation when aligning walls and screeds should not be more than 2 mm for every 2 m.

Leveling the subfloor is the most important condition when laying solid boards and any parquet. If you do not achieve a perfectly flat surface, the solid board will begin to creak in a couple of years due to the movement of the floorboards relative to each other. The creaking of a solid board is always a consequence of an unleveled floor, and not of poor quality material.

It is very important to clean the subfloor of small debris and dirt. Remove any shavings, small nails, or debris from it. building materials, if possible, dust, grease and glue stains.

The difference in humidity between the subfloor and the solid board laid on top of it should not be more than 4%. In this case, the humidity of the subfloor itself should not exceed 12%. You can achieve the required humidity levels by thoroughly ventilating the room and eliminating possible unwanted sources of moisture. Sometimes dehumidifiers can help solve this problem.

In addition, you need to make sure that there is no movement in the subfloor. If necessary, the subfloor is further strengthened to eliminate them.

How to properly unpack and prepare solid wood for installation

In order to save yourself from unnecessary problems in the future, you should properly unpack and prepare solid boards for installation. Remember that a solid board already laid by a master is considered accepted for quality and, even if there are defects, cannot be returned.

After the solid board has been unpacked, it should be carefully inspected and sorted by pattern and color, planning in advance how it will be laid on the subfloor. To create the most harmonious interior set aside the boards that will best match the baseboards and thresholds for installation next to them. Determine which boards you will use for cutting and in which specific locations.

The unpacked and sorted solid board must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it is planned to be laid for at least three days. The same applies to all materials that will be used during the installation of solid wood floors. Their humidity should not exceed 12% (theoretically), and preferably be in the range of 6-10%. However, it is worth noting that today you cannot find a solid board with a moisture content of 6-10% on the market, even the most expensive and exclusive one. Alas, manufacturers are not ready to slow down production in order to create the ideal material.

Methods for laying solid boards on various types of subfloors

1. Laying solid boards on concrete floors

First of all, you should form a moisture-vapor barrier that will serve as a buffer between concrete and wood. To do this, a special substrate made of foamed polyethylene, 3 mm thick, can be laid out or a layer of soil mastic can be laid. The finished barrier will ensure the stability of the massive board and protect it from deformation.

After this, a base is laid for the solid board flooring, which can be done in two ways.

The first method is “joists on the screed”. According to this technology, wooden blocks of rectangular cross-section - logs - are used as a base for a massive board. Such bars are attached to the concrete base using dowels and screws, which are inserted perpendicular to the future floor. Alternatively, if there is a danger of damaging the communications located under the concrete screed, you can glue the logs to adhesive or mastic containing bitumen. The distance between the fastening points should be no more than 50 cm. After laying, the bars are leveled using a level. To adjust the height of the log, wood chips are placed or excess wood is removed with a plane. If desired, you can fill the space between the joists thermal insulation materials. This is justified if the flooring is laid on the ground floor of a building that does not have basement. Then a moisture-proof film is spread over the lag, which is secured with staples. And a massive board is laid on top of it.

In the Foto correct styling plywood diagonal to the solid board.
The gap size should be from 3 to 5 mm.

The second method is laying on a plywood base along a screed. Today this is the most popular way of laying solid boards. According to this technology, moisture-resistant plywood is used as a base, the thickness of which should be 15-18 mm. Before laying, plywood sheets are cut into strips with a width of 40 to 60 cm. Moreover, the cutting of a single sheet of plywood is carried out along the smaller of its sides. The finished strips are laid on concrete, diagonally to the future solid wood floor. In this case, gaps are left: between the sheets - 3-5 mm, between the sheets and walls - 10 mm. It is important to understand that plywood tiles need to be laid out with a shift relative to each other in order to minimize the possibility of corners touching. Using dowels and screws, the heads of which are recessed into the material, the plywood is attached to the concrete. Each strip must have at least 9 attachment points. Alternative option fastening plywood to concrete - glue mounting. One stripe size in this case should be at least half as large. Before laying solid boards, the plywood must be sanded using a belt sander equipped with a 40 or 60 grit belt and cleaned of dust.

2. Laying solid boards on load-bearing wooden structures

If laying solid boards is carried out in a building that has load-bearing wooden structures, they can be used to attach the foundation for the future floor to them.

Before attaching the base under the floor, the existing joists must be leveled so that their maximum deviation from the plane does not exceed 2 mm per 2 m, otherwise the solid board will begin to creak over time. Using a level, remove excess wood with a plane or place wood chips in the desired areas.

As a base for a solid board, 12 mm plywood, 18 mm OSB boards or 20 mm plank flooring can be used. Plywood and OSB boards are laid on top of the moisture-proof film in the direction of the future solid wood floor so that the edges of the boards meet on the joists, and not between them. The gap between the sheets should be at least 2 mm, between the sheets and the wall - at least 10 mm, but not more than 15 mm, so that the opening can be closed with a plinth. Plywood and OSB boards are fastened with screws, of which there must be at least 9 pieces per sheet. In this case, the screw heads must be recessed 3-4 mm into the material for possible subsidence of the plywood.

When using plank flooring as a base, the subfloor parts are laid diagonally to the future solid plank floor.

3. Installation on a finished wooden floor

The existing strong and high-quality wooden floor in the room must be sanded using a belt sander equipped with an abrasive belt with a grit of 40 or 60. After this, the surface of the wooden floor should be cleaned of dust and small debris. It is recommended to lay solid boards over a wooden floor in a diagonal or transverse direction.

Application of two-component polyurethane adhesives

The best adhesives for solid wood are two-component polyurethane adhesives, which are used by all installers. There are many similar adhesives on the market, but there are several fundamental differences:

• Working time until the glue thickens. The optimal time now, which is indicated by manufacturers of modern adhesives, is 2.5, sometimes 3 hours. It is important to remember that this time is calculated for ideal conditions temperature, humidity, and also for the ideal composition inside the jar. From jar to jar, the parameters of the glue itself may also vary slightly. In reality, you need to calculate an hour and a half of glue work.
• Glue base. Benzene group adhesives have strong smell, but disappear faster. Alkyd adhesives are most often odorless, but all harmful fumes take a little longer to disappear. Remember that glue that has a smell is no less environmentally friendly than one that does not smell - this is a common misconception. If odor is a major concern for the installer, we recommend the hypoallergenic adhesive Tover Tovcol PU2C.
• Strength and elasticity of the glue. These parameters are important for installation, but the buyer will never know from the available product cards which adhesive is stronger. Trust the opinion of professional craftsmen or equally professional sellers.

Glues also have additional properties. For example, water-based or solvent-based adhesives shrink parquet and also transfer excess moisture into the solid board. Most adhesives leave stains when they come into contact with the varnished surface of parquet; some compounds can be removed before hardening with a cloth without leaving a mark (for example, ADESIV Pelpren PL6).

For all two-part adhesives, you need to use a wide-toothed spatula - don't forget to buy one. Only such spatulas create the correct adhesive seam.

So, before installation, you need to thoroughly mix the two components of the glue with an electric mixer (an electric mixer allows you to do this efficiently and quickly, without reducing the working time of the glue). Then you can pour some of the glue from the jar and spread it with a spatula. Sometimes you can see how glue is spread not on the base, but on each plank before gluing. Spreading the composition on the planks creates an insufficient layer of glue, especially in the gaps between the planks, so this method is incorrect from the point of view of adhesive manufacturers.

Correct glue line and correct use spatula.
Pay attention to how the spatula bends when pressed against the base.

The spatula must be held strictly vertically and pressed slightly into the floor - this creates the correct glue seam - grooves of glue, with only a thin film or a completely dry base underneath.

Fastening solid wood boards to the base and to each other

To attach a solid board to the base, self-tapping screws are used, the distance between which should be at least 20-30 cm. Before this, the solid board should be drilled at an angle of 45 degrees from the ridge side. There is no fundamental difference between which side of the planks to drill from, but theoretically it is more correct to drill into a tenon. Specialized SPAX solid wood screws are the most popular for this purpose and with no immediate competitors. It is especially important to use specialized screws for boards made of exotic, high-density wood (however, pre-drilling is required for exotic, dense wood).

Attracting the planks of a solid board to each other when screwed with self-tapping screws.

It is very important to pull the planks tightly together when screwing and leave the required gap between the boards and the walls (for most medium-sized rooms - exactly 1 cm). To attract the planks to each other, carefully use a chisel or wedges if you have to press a tenon. Or, most often, the planks are knocked down with a hammer through a block.

Professional parquet crews often use a pneumatic gun with staples instead of self-tapping screws, which allows them to lay parquet much faster. This method is correct, but requires an initial investment in the purchase of a gun, a compressor and a supply of special staples.

Too small a gap between the walls and the parquet when the wood expands does not allow the internal tension of the material to escape, which can lead to cracking or swelling of the boards. A gap that is too large will be difficult to close with regular-sized skirting boards.

The first row of solid boards is always laid with the groove facing the wall. The first and last rows are fastened with self-tapping screws through the front surface of the solid board. Subsequently, the fastening points are hidden under the baseboard.

Rules for sanding solid boards and applying a protective coating to it

To process laid solid boards without a factory coating, it is recommended to use disk and belt parquet sanding machines. For work along walls and in corners, it is recommended to use special angle grinders and small hand grinders.

It is important to understand that light sanding is ideal for solid boards, removing only the varnish coating. Sanding will remove the chamfer, so when seasonal narrowing of the wood occurs, gaps will be noticeable on the floor surface.

Upon completion of sanding (if the solid board is uncoated), the surface of the solid board should be thoroughly cleaned of dust using a vacuum cleaner or brush. Applying varnish or oil should begin the same day. After drying, it is recommended to sand each layer using a disc machine. It is recommended to apply 3 to 7 layers of varnish, which may take about 7 days. If you use a semi-gloss or glossy varnish, then in addition to strength, this affects the “mirror” appearance of the board. After sanding, oil should be applied in 2-4 layers. Oil with hard wax does not require maintenance unless there is visible deterioration appearance. Traditional oil needs to be renewed every 1-2 years.

The final touch is the installation of the plinth, which is carried out according to the recommendations of the specific plinth manufacturer. After this, the installation of solid wood flooring can be considered complete.

By purchasing whole board V own house or an apartment, many do not think about the fact that there are many nuances in the installation and operation of such flooring. Even having figured out the technology of how to lay solid boards and how to care for them, many, in order to save time or money, do not fully follow these recommendations. But by neglecting even some seemingly insignificant nuance, the owners put the floor covering at risk. After all, sometimes even one overlooked detail can cause serious damage to new floors. And to prevent this from happening, it is necessary for the person who will install them to know exactly and follow the installation technology. And recommendations and requirements from manufacturers for those who will use new ones beautiful floors. We'll talk about this in today's article.

Laying solid boards

Methods for laying solid boards

Before purchasing a new solid board, you should know that there are two main types. This is an option that can only be laid using the rigid method - by fixing it to the base. The second universal one is the so-called solid interlocking boards, they can be laid with glue, or using the “floating method”, according to the same principle as laminate or parquet boards are installed. The whole secret of such boards is in the stable structure obtained by special technology and the presence of a locking connection.

To understand which one to choose, you need to know some nuances.

Advantages and disadvantages of the adhesive installation method

The main advantage of the adhesive method of installing solid boards is reliability; there is no risk that the boards will move, they will become small or dry out too much. The second advantage is that there is no need for dividing thresholds; you can lay the entire apartment or house in a single sheet. Well, the third plus is that the glued solid can be sanded and re-varnished.

The main disadvantage is the cost, square meter with adhesive installation increases by 1000-1500 rubles: plywood, screws, glue and cost of work.

The second drawback is that the floor level rises by at least 30 mm.

Well, installation using the adhesive method takes more time.

Methods of laying solid boards: glue

Laying the array in a floating manner

First of all, it is worth saying that solid castle boards are made from bamboo using the pressing method, which leads to high density and stability of the product. This allows them to be installed without glue, which in turn helps to facilitate installation work, reduce its time and cost. And this is their main advantage.

But with this method of laying a massive board, a number of limitations arise, and the most important and important thing is that you cannot lay it in a single sheet longer than 6 meters and no matter in width, length or diagonally. Every 6 meters there must be a thermal seam closed by a threshold. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the fabric will rupture when it dries out, or it may become “little” when humidity increases.

The disadvantages include the fact that with the floating method, a solid board cannot be sanded.

Methods of laying solid boards: interlocking

How to lay solid boards: preparing the base

The type of base for laying the array is prepared depending on the installation method.

When preparing, the main goal is to achieve a smooth and rigid subfloor with appropriate humidity.

Base for interlocking solid boards laid using the floating method

For all floors installed in a floating manner, the preparation of the base has the same requirements:

• Unevenness on a segment of 2 meters in any part of the floor should not exceed 2 mm.
• The humidity of the concrete base is no more than 3-4%
• Waterproofing must be provided (substrate protected from moisture, polyethylene or aquastop solution, etc.)

The basis can also be any wood flooring: boards, plywood, etc., but it must be equally smooth and free of dust.

Base for laying solid wood with glue

Traditional technology involves the use of plywood with a minimum thickness of 12mm. It is sawn into sheets measuring 50x50 cm; 60x60 cm; or 70x70 cm and is fixed to the base with a gap of 5-7 mm using glue and a self-tapping dowel according to the chessboard principle. In this case, the concrete base must also be well dust-free, dried and have 3-4% humidity. In some cases, when plywood cannot be laid directly on the screed, logs with a cross-section of at least 50 mm are used, their humidity should not exceed 12%. They are mounted at a distance from each other no more than 30 cm.

How to lay solid wood

It is worth saying that you should not lay solid boards of any type on heated floors, although some manufacturers conditionally allow this. But still it’s not worth it, since the conditions prescribed by the manufacturer cannot be realistically observed in living conditions. Heat can cause severe warping and cracking of wood floors.

Technology of laying solid boards with glue

Before proceeding with the installation of solid boards with glue, it is necessary to ensure appropriate conditions, that is, create the correct microclimate in the room and follow certain recommendations:

• The room temperature should be at least + 18 degrees C.
• Humidity within 40-60%
• The solid board in the room where it will be laid should lie for 3 days.
• The array should be laid along the incident light. If the base is boards and they are laid lengthwise, then it is necessary to fasten massive boards across, regardless of the location of the window.
• For laying on plywood, a one-component adhesive is suitable if you want to lay on a concrete screed (if you are sure of its high quality), then high-quality 2-component glue is used for this purpose.
• Before installation, the base is cleaned of dust and other contamination.

Installation of solid boards with glue

Laying solid boards with glue should be carried out by experienced specialists. You should not neglect the manufacturer's recommendations, as this can lead to detachment of individual boards, deformation of the parquet floor and damage to the decorative part.

Laying solid boards

Floating installation of solid wood planks

One of the most popular and oldest brands producing solid interlocking boards is the Amigo company. Their famous Hi-Tech bamboo can be laid without glue on the backing. But, as mentioned above, there is a limit of 6 meters; in no case should you neglect this rule, since there are accurate calculations confirming that if this figure is exceeded, in most cases problems arise with such bamboo floors. In addition, there will be no warranty from the manufacturer. In addition, you should use a special smooth backing: this is the native “Amigo” or “Tuplex” backing.

Why can’t you lay a cork backing under the lock array?

And the whole point is in its roughness. The bamboo mass is heavy and the friction force when expanding on such a substrate is very high, which can lead to the lifting of the canvas above the base due to the impossibility of expanding laterally.

Just like any array, before laying the interlocking material, it must lie for 72 hours in a horizontal position in the room where it will be laid.

The temperature in the room should vary between +16 - +28 degrees C, humidity 40-60%.

It is also very important to know that the expansion joint must be at least 15 mm on each side, this applies not only to walls, but also to pipes (a hole is cut on the board 30 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe), door jambs and other obstacles. The entire canvas should lie freely and not rest anywhere. If possible, avoid installing very heavy furniture such as wardrobes, etc.

Solid wood plank laying technology

If the canvas exceeds the 6-meter line, a “gap” is made and closed with a T-type threshold. At the same time, if two bamboo sheets laid “floating” are connected, a gap of at least 10 mm must be provided on both sides of the threshold for the free movement of bamboo sheets in case of moisture build-up.

Laying solid boards

Installing a solid interlocking board is no different from installing laminate or parquet boards. Laying is carried out, if possible, towards the window and at a distance, the minimum distance between the ends of the boards of two adjacent rows is at least 30 cm.

After laying the massive interlocking board, all that remains is to install the baseboards. They are attached exclusively to the wall; there should be no fixation to the floors. Remember the floor should “float” freely.

Laying solid boards

Caring for solid boards

We learned how to lay a solid board, let's look at how to care for it.

All floor coverings made from wood and coated with varnish or oil, require the same care.

The main condition that will protect against the appearance of cracks, cracking and delamination is maintaining humidity in the apartment. This issue is especially acute during the heating season. Usually at this time the wooden floor begins to “play” and creak. To avoid this, manufacturers recommend using a humidifier, setting up an aquarium, etc. But the fact is that the humidifier uses up water quite quickly - as they say, you can’t run out, especially if there are several of them, but you need one of them in each room. If you don't like it, you can't put a bucket of water in place of an aquarium.

Therefore, if you are planning to lay a solid board, no matter using glue or a “floating” method, take care in advance automated system air humidification, connected directly to the home water supply. The pleasure is not cheap, but in the future you will not have the hassle and worries of ensuring moisture for the floors. In addition, excessively dry air has a negative impact on human health. And this is another reason to create conditions in the house with air humidity of at least 40% and no more than 60%.

A common problem When caring for parquet boards, solid wood or any other wooden covering, stains appear under varnish after cleaning. To remove them it is recommended to use professional products for care, for example, products under the Bona brand are considered good.

To minimize mechanical damage to the varnish on all moving furniture: tables, chairs, etc., it is better to glue felt stickers, and under computer chair It's better to put a rug.

How to lay solid boards; caring for solid wood boards