It is difficult to find a person who would not dream of a fireplace, but not everyone has the opportunity to make their dream come true. Therefore, many residents of city apartments often thought about how to make a false fireplace with their own hands? Construction decorative fireplace- a simple matter that does not require in-depth knowledge of the furnace business, but some nuances still need to be taken into account.

Construction of a false fireplace from foam concrete

You will need:

• foam concrete blocks and slabs;
• hacksaw;
• adhesive for porous concrete;
• gypsum board putty;
• trowel;
• fiberboard sheet;
• putty knife.

It is easy to build a false fireplace with your own hands from foam blocks. This is a fairly light material that can be easily cut with ordinary hand hacksaw. The first step is to decide on the location for the future hearth.

If you plan to simulate a fire in the firebox using electrical appliances, you should install wiring to this location in advance.

Example 1. Construction of a decorative fireplace.

The appearance of the fireplace will depend on your wishes, imagination and size of the home.

First, a foam concrete slab is laid on the floor; it can be placed on glue, but this is not at all necessary. It is advisable to round the external corners that will be located directly in front of the false fireplace for safety reasons. The height of the base should not exceed 10 cm.

Next, the side walls are made; the foam blocks can be installed vertically - in this case, the structure will be narrower - or laid horizontally - for a wider false fireplace. If you wish, you can cut foam concrete blocks and imitate brickwork. The parts are fastened together using a special adhesive for foam concrete or a sand-cement mixture.

After the side walls are installed, a foam concrete slab is glued on top of them, which will serve as a fireplace mantel. You have an almost finished frame for a decorative fireplace; the space for the firebox takes up too much space. In order to reduce it, the front part of the fireplace with a window for the firebox is cut out of a sheet of fiberboard or plywood.

If desired, the vault can be given the appearance of an arch or made smooth. The fiberboard is glued with the same glue as the blocks. If neither plywood nor hardboard is found on the farm, then the front panel can be cut out of corrugated cardboard, but in this case it must be treated several times with a solution of PVA glue and water, and also thoroughly puttied.

Next, you need to apply a thin layer of putty over the entire surface, Special attention attention must be paid to seams and joints. Using a flat spatula, apply the mixture onto the trowel, then spread the putty at an angle - from bottom to top.

It is best to putty the corners using a spatula. Now you need to let the first layer dry, then apply the finishing layer of putty. After drying, they are sanded with fine sandpaper, the surface is completely ready for decoration.

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False fireplace decoration

Not everyone knows how to make it look little different from the real thing. The finishing plays a big role in the design of the portal. So, using the same putty, you can create a variety of textures. If you scoop up the putty with a foam sponge and apply it to the surface with jerky movements, you will get an interesting rough texture.

You can leave it like that, but it’s better to paint the surface dark acrylic paint and immediately walk over it with a damp cloth, thus dark color will remain only in the recesses. Then apply silver or gold paint to the tip of a brush or foam sponge and walk lightly, barely touching the surface.

If you have leftover drywall, you can cut bricks from them to decorate a false fireplace. It's better to give them not quite correct form, then it will be possible to make an imitation of the old, already lived-in masonry. The surface and side of the bricks are decorated with putty, it is applied with a spatula, deliberately leaving unevenness, allowed to dry, then painted in a suitable color.

Using beech wood putty, you can imitate a stone surface. It is applied to the fireplace portal using a spatula with chaotic movements. Then they draw the outlines of the stones with some kind of stick, take a bristle brush and, as it were, pierce the still damp putty with it, thus obtaining the texture of the stone, and allow it to dry. To make the stones look more natural, they are shaded with dark brown and black acrylic paint.

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Do-it-yourself false fireplace made of plasterboard

You will need:

• drywall;
• rack and guide metal profiles;
• self-tapping screws for gypsum boards and for metal;
• screwdriver;
• knife and metal ruler;
• gypsum board putty;
• putty knife.

Before you make it, you need to decide on its size. The width and height of the frame will depend largely not only on the area of ​​the room, but also on the finishing material. If you are planning to tiling, then you need to take into account its width and height, add the distance between the seams, then there will be no need to cut the finish.

The first step is to apply markings for the guide profiles on the walls and floor, then secure them. If you find that the wall has significant deviations, then use fastening loops to attach the guides to the surface. Next, the rack profiles are inserted and connected to the guides using metal screws.

The first step is to install the base of the decorative fireplace, after which they begin to manufacture the portal. If you want the firebox window to be arched, then make cuts on the profile every 5 cm and bend it in a semicircle.

All that remains is to cover the structure with plasterboard; if you are planning tiled cladding, then opt for a waterproof option. You can use a utility knife for cutting. A metal ruler is applied to the drywall, then a deep cut is made along it.

After which the sheet is bent in half and tapped on it, the drywall should break exactly along the cut line. If you need to make a semicircle, then cut it out using a hacksaw. The sheets are secured to the frame with special self-tapping screws for gypsum boards, which have a countersunk head.

Example 2. Construction of a decorative fireplace.

After the structure is ready, it is necessary to putty all the seams. If the fireplace is tiled, the surface is not treated, but if it is painted, the fireplace is completely puttied. For cladding, tile adhesive is used, it is diluted according to the attached instructions. Work starts from the bottom, the glue is applied with a spatula with a smooth surface to a small area, then passed with the serrated side.

The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 10 mm. Then apply the tile, press it a little, and tap it with a rubber hammer. Separating crosses are used for seams. After the masonry is completed, it is left until the glue dries completely. Then the joints are grouted.

Making a false fireplace from plasterboard is much more difficult than from foam blocks, but the result is worth the effort. Portals made from this material almost completely replicate a real fireplace.

Building a house from aerated concrete is not exactly an easy undertaking, but compared to brick or the same log house, you will have to put in much less effort. We will build a simple cottage on a strip foundation.

If you wish, you can change the characteristics of the building at your discretion - you just need to master the order of laying out the walls, all other activities are carried out as standard for houses made of any materials.

Construction kit

• 0.1 Construction kit
• 1 Making the foundation
  • 1.1 Marking the site
  • 1.2 Preparing the trenches
  • 1.3 Digging trenches
  • 1.4 Installing the formwork
  • 1.5 Laying the reinforcement
  • 1.6 Pouring concrete
  • 1.7 Building walls
  • 1.10 Interfloor armored belt. Photo
  • 1.11 We arrange windows and window sills
  • 1.12 Making jumpers
  • 1.13 Making an armored belt
• • 2.1 Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house

1. Band-saw.
2. Drill.
3. Hand saw.
4. Manual wall chaser.
5. Mixer.
6. Electric cutter.
7. Scraper bucket.
8. Carriages for glue.
9. Notched trowel.
10. Rubber hammer.
11. Sanding float (board).

Making the foundation

Marking the site

We remove everything that is in the way from the site, clear it and begin marking. To do this, we use reinforcing bars and rope.

We determine the axis of the future structure. We take a plumb line and mark the first corner of the foundation. Perpendicular to it, we pull the rope to the second and third corners of the building.

Using a square, mark the 4th corner. We measure the diagonals. If the length is the same, everything is fine, the angles match, you can hammer in the rods and pull the rope.

Similarly, we carry out internal markings of the base, retreating from the external order of 400 mm ( optimal value width for strip foundation).

We dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and under future internal walls.

Preparing the trenches

We find the lowest point on the site. From here we measure the depth of the hole. Small house can be built on a 40-centimeter tape. For the rest, focus on the features of the structure and the site as a whole (freezing depth, groundwater level).

Digging trenches

Important! The walls of the pit should be vertical and the bottom should be level. We check this with a plumb line and level.

Place a sand cushion at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly. Such a pillow will help to evenly distribute the load on the base in the off-season. Recommended thickness – from 15 cm.

Pour crushed stone onto the sand and lay roofing felt.

Installing formwork

We assemble it from boards, plywood and other similar materials. We fasten the formwork elements using nails or screws.

Important! The height of the formwork is such that it rises above the ground level by at least 300 mm.

We stretch the fishing line along the inner perimeter of the formwork at the level of the upper edge of the future fill.

At the same stage, we think about the arrangement of openings for the entry of water supply and sewerage. To do this, we put in in the right places empty pipes and fill them with sand.

Laying the reinforcement

We take rods with a diameter of 12-14 m. We tie them into a mesh using flexible steel wire. 7 mesh meshes can have different size. The heavier the house, the smaller the side of the square should be. Most often, a mesh with cells of 20x20 cm is sufficient.

We make a grid according to the dimensions of the trench. Important! We leave 5-centimeter gaps between the laid reinforcing layer, the walls and the top of the trench, so that in the future all reinforcement will be guaranteed to be filled with concrete.

Pouring concrete

We multiply the width of the foundation by its length and height and determine the required volume of concrete. Prepare or order the mixture. For preparation we use the standard recipe:

• cement – ​​1 part;
• crushed stone - 5 parts;
• sand - 3 parts;
• water - to the desired consistency.

Fill in concrete mortar in even layers of approximately 200 mm, do not rush. We compact each layer of fill with a wooden tamper. We pour concrete to the level of the previously stretched rope in the formwork space.

We level the pouring surface using a trowel and pierce the concrete with reinforcement in several places. From the outside, carefully tap the formwork with a wooden hammer.

We give the foundation a month to gain strength. During this time, we cover the structure with polyethylene to protect it from precipitation, and in hot weather we spill it with water to prevent cracking.

Building walls

For construction in this example we use blocks with a tongue-and-groove design. They are simply more comfortable to carry with your hands. You can build from any other aerated blocks - the order of work does not change.

We first clean the upper part of the dried foundation from existing dirt and dust, and then cover it with a layer of roofing felt.

For the first row of luggage we use cement-sand mortar. It dries longer than special glue, and we will have the opportunity to adjust the evenness of the row layout. The minimum layer thickness is 10 mm. There are no maximum restrictions. This will allow you to even out differences in height without much effort.

We find the highest angle - we will build from it. We take a fishing line and mark the wall of the house. We lay the first gas block. Then we place a block at each remaining corner and stretch the rope between the building elements.

Be sure to check the evenness of each block. We lay out the first row of blocks around the perimeter of the house and in the places where the internal walls are being built.

Important! Remember about door openings. Naturally, we skip them.

We take polishing and carefully grind the surface of the starting row. Next, we will do this with each laid row. Thanks to this treatment, we will be able to apply the glue as evenly as possible.

We put the second, and after it the third row. We use special glue for laying gas blocks. We work as on the first row, starting from the corners. We tie the rows, moving them half a block - similar brickwork. The minimum permissible value of such a shift when laying aerated concrete is 80 mm.

To apply glue we use ladles with teeth. We install the blocks as close to each other as possible, as far as our fingers allow, and move them end to end. We check the evenness of the masonry with a level. If necessary, level the blocks using a rubber hammer. We work quickly and smoothly, because... The glue dries very quickly and it will be almost impossible to move the gas block.

Helpful advice! If, when laying the opening, it was not possible to reach the length of the entire gas block, we saw off the excess using a special saw or a simple hacksaw for wood.

Interfloor armored belt. Photo

We equip windows and window sills

In the example under consideration, the window sills have a height of 4 rows of masonry. We reinforce window openings after laying out the 3rd row. A wall chaser will help us with this.

In the place where the window opening is arranged, we cut 2 parallel lines. Their length should extend beyond the boundaries of the window by 300 mm on each side.

We lay reinforcement bars in the grooves and secure them cement-sand mortar. Ready! The wall for installing the window is reinforced.

Important! It is better not to block openings for installing windows. Of course, in the future they can be cut out, but this is a waste of time and effort.

Laying walls. In the photo, decorative brick cladding is being done at the same time as the walls are being laid.

Making jumpers

Gradually we approached the lintels. These structures are needed to strengthen the section of the wall above the door and window openings. Without jumpers, the structure may simply collapse.

Then “permanent formwork” of three rows of blocks: 1. Outside, a block with a thickness of 150; 2. in the center is a block 150 thick, sawn in half lengthwise; 3. The inside is a block 100 mm thick.

We cut it into “squares” and tie reinforcing bars to them

You can either use ready-made U-shaped blocks (glue them to the required length, install them, lay down reinforcement and fill them with cement mortar) or make the formwork yourself.

For the manufacture of formwork, it is most convenient to use gas blocks 10 cm wide. We fasten the blocks with glue. If it is not possible to buy 10-centimeter blocks, we simply cut a regular gas block into 3 identical pieces.

We glue the blocks to the required length, make 3 longitudinal ditches with a wall chaser, lay reinforcing bars in them, pour in cement mortar and give it a day to dry.

We install the jumpers with the side with the reinforcement facing down. We fill the gaps with gas blocks, if necessary, pre-cut to the required sizes.

Making an armored belt

After arranging the row with window lintels, we begin pouring the armored belt, also known as the seismic belt. The structure is made of reinforced concrete and ensures the integrity of the aerated concrete building.

We take 10-centimeter blocks and form them into formwork around the perimeter of the walls. We fill the ditch with reinforcement and pour cement mortar.

We embed metal pins into the armored belt for attaching the Mauerlat. We can make them from reinforcement. Even more convenient option– threaded studs. It is easier to attach the Mauerlat to them.

At this point the box at home is ready.

We have already installed the Mauerlat. It's time to install the rafters. At this stage, everything is individual - focus on the features of the chosen roofing structure.

Several options are available:

Regardless of the chosen roof structure, it must be equipped with insulating layers: hydro-, heat- and vapor barriers. In some cases (for example, when setting up residential attic) a layer of soundproofing material is installed.

We fix it on top of the rafters waterproofing material. The most convenient way to do this is with wooden slats. At the same time, the slats will play the role of a counter-batten, to which the sheathing slats for the roofing material will later be fixed.

Under the waterproofing, we place insulation in the space between the sheathing slats. Most often used mineral wool. If desired, you can choose another material (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, etc.).

We cover the thermal insulation with a layer of vapor barrier film. We attach it to the rafters using wooden slats.

Finally, we lay down the finishing roof covering. At this point, focus on your available budget and personal preferences. Most popular materials:

• slate;
• bitumen shingles;
• corrugated sheeting;
• metal tiles;
• ceramic tiles.

Any roofing material lay it starting from the bottom. As a result, the sheets will be secured so that sedimentary moisture can drain without penetrating under the roofing.

At this point, the box of aerated blocks with a roof is ready. Next, you will have to work on installing utilities and finishing, but this is a topic for a separate manual.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house

How to turn ordinary house into a cozy, comfortable, simply pleasing to the eye, with an atmosphere of warmth, lightness, into a house where all its residents want to return. What can become the center of the home and a place for family and friends to communicate? A fireplace is one of the solutions, and if you build a fireplace with your own hands, the value increases a hundredfold.

And therefore, this matter must be approached with great responsibility, calculate each stage of the work, take into account numerous requirements and small nuances, do not forget about fire safety, and, of course, put great love into everything. Only then will the fireplace bring benefits and true pleasure.

Which fireplace to choose?

Each era is characterized by its own design of fireplaces; they never go out of fashion, but the outlines, shapes, lines, and materials from which they are made change. If you previously chose wood and marble for exterior finishing, then today it is a huge choice finishing materials. Relevant themes are classics, minimalism, empire style, royal tiles, hi-tech, urban, country, original and amazing. Which to choose? On solid fuel, electric, or maybe gas? Built-in or wall-mounted, or maybe corner? Open or closed type?

So, where to start to lay out a fireplace? We need to determine what kind of fireplace we need, what it should look like. Here are the demands we put forward:

1. The fireplace must be functional, i.e. workers.
2. With good heat transfer (efficiency).
3. With a closed firebox under glass (safety).
4. Corner fireplace (space saving).
5. On solid fuel.

We are making a list of what we need in further work:

• cast iron firebox 590/515 cm;
• fireplace facing tiles;
• decorative facing tiles;
• fire brick;
• tile cutter;
• set of spatulas;
• rubber spatulas;
• comb for “combing” the solution;
• aerated concrete blocks 250/600 mm;
• heat-resistant glue “reinforced”;
• pipe according to the diameter of the furnace outlet;
• sheet iron 1.5-2 mm (various scraps);
• heat-resistant grout for facing tiles Ceresit;
• hacksaw;
• angle grinder (impeller);
• welding machine;
• level 2m.

Today the market is represented by a large number of manufacturers offering ready-made products.

A firebox made in France, Rubis, measuring 590/515 cm, is quite suitable.

Preparing a place for a fireplace

Clean and level the surface. We prepare a base from refractory bricks with a size equal to the diagonal of the corner and a width equal to the width cast iron firebox, leave until completely dry.

The next stage of work is installing the firebox on the base and installing the chimney pipe

For greater heat output, pieces are welded onto the chimney pipe connecting the firebox to the chimney in the wall sheet iron. We pay special attention to the tightness of the connections.

We lay out the entire fireplace wall up to the ceiling from aerated concrete blocks. Why did we choose aerated concrete blocks, because this material has a porous structure with high thermal insulation properties and quite good strength.

The process of laying a fireplace is not quick, and you have to lay it one level at a time in order for everything to dry well. Be sure to ensure that the surface is even, and do not forget to leave pre-designated niches for air circulation behind the fireplace wall. Approaching the ceiling, we gradually tilt it forward at a slight degree, and, not reaching 5 cm from the ceiling, we finish the work.

Thus, we leave a gap between the ceiling and the fireplace wall for air circulation.

We clad the fireplace with stone-like tiles.

Having reached the top of the wall, we glue another row of tiles onto the ceiling itself, giving the fireplace wall a slightly curved appearance. It gives the impression of a single wall extending into the ceiling. We also line niches. Three of them will be designed as shelves and another one will be a niche for storing firewood. A chimney pipe will be visible in one of the niches.

Then we will place some object in front of it (a vase, a figurine or any other decorative item).

Grouting joints

This is a jewelry work that requires great care, since the grout is facing stone difficult to remove due to its roughness. Before work, clean all seams from glue, dilute the mixture in small portions, since the mixture sets quickly, and apply with a rubber spatula. After drying, be sure to wash the tiles until they are completely clean.

Having laid out the fireplace, we lay out a step in front of it, 15 cm high and 30 cm wide, also made of aerated concrete blocks. We cover it with ordinary decorative tiles.

For what? Burning wood that accidentally falls out of the firebox will not fall on the floor surface; this will give it a finished shape once and twice.

A fireplace we built with our own hands.

The fireplace warms both body and soul. What is better suited for such purposes if not such a warm and light material as aerated concrete? It costs little, is not afraid of fire, and can be easily finished. At the same time, plaster and stucco stick well to aerated concrete, despite the hot flame on the other side of the wall. Here, low thermal conductivity comes into play, leveling out temperature fluctuations. But the advantages of aerated concrete partition blocks in Ufa do not end there.

Draw and cut

Whichever complex design not planned by the future owner of the fireplace, it will be easy to make from aerated concrete. After all, it can be cut using a regular hacksaw for wood or drywall. Such a hacksaw will not be enough for a large volume of material, but for a fireplace this is quite enough. True, the hacksaw will then either have to be sharpened well or thrown away. Here are some tips on how to think through and build the basic structure:

• The drawing is made on paper or directly on the walls and ceiling, if the design is not complex;
• In the process of drawing lines and forming the material, much attention is paid to the coincidence of the angles, for which they usually take a three-dimensional square for gas blocks;
• When designing a fireplace, it should be taken into account that flammable objects must be located at a distance specified in SNiP, and the outer side of the fireplace must be covered with additional insulation, for example, gas silicate;
• The interior of the fireplace is usually made of cast iron (sold separately), which can be replaced with heat-resistant sheet metal with asbestos board lining;
• The connection of the firebox to the pipe is made before the back of the fireplace is completed (the metal sleeve is lined with aerated concrete after connecting to the main pipe).

As for the purchase itself, a calculator for calculating aerated concrete blocks in Ufa will help you. You enter the parameters - it does the rest!

Decorative works

If thick blocks are selected, then any material, including Venetian plaster, will adhere well to the surface of aerated concrete. If there is no room for a voluminous fireplace, then you can decorate the structure insulating materials. Good way decorate the fireplace while increasing its heat resistance - this is the use ceramic tiles or textured decorative brick. A bad choice is the use of plastic and other flammable materials.

You can start a fire in the fireplace after the substance on which the decorative layer rests has completely set. It should also be taken into account that adhesives can release harmful substances even after setting and are generally less resistant to high temperatures. Otherwise, an aerated concrete fireplace will bring you only positive emotions.

The time has come to explain in what ways aerated concrete is superior to other technologies, and why is a fireplace made of aerated concrete?

Today in Russia there are three main methods of building a fireplace: plasterboard, brick and potted stone. In what ways are they inferior to an aerated concrete fireplace?

Plasterboard fireplace

In a plasterboard fireplace, there is an RTK made of metal frame inside. During operation of such a fireplace, deformation of the RTK occurs. Which, in turn, leads to the appearance of cracks on the facade of the fireplace and on the RTK. Moreover, cracks on the facade of the fireplace do not depend on the amount of drywall with which the fireplace is lined. The RTK itself does not gain heat, since mineral wool does not accumulate heat, but reflects it. Adding to this the problem of installing decor and facing the fireplace, due to the fact that the RTK is not a load-bearing structure, a plasterboard fireplace becomes a more than unattractive option.

Brick fireplace

So maybe a brick fireplace? If you consider that due to the design of the fireplace, even the outer walls do not warm up, and it will take a very long time to heat the room. a large number of time and resources, it is unlikely that a brick fireplace will be able to satisfy all your requirements for a fireplace. The very labor-intensive process of laying a fireplace and the high cost of the material are also not advantages for this type of fireplace. Since the variety of brick appearances is quite limited, it becomes impossible to create a completely unique fireplace for your home. This fireplace will be quite standard and similar to others. For a brick fireplace, you will have to make a separate foundation, which leads to additional difficulties and financial investments.

pot stone

What remains is the potting stone. Let's see how it can compete with aerated concrete.

From natural stone hydrotalc chloride is produced by RTK or just the lining. The production and manufacture of the fireplace takes place in Finland. In Russia, only the installation of the fireplace takes place. The potted stone no longer requires any finishing. Not bad? Of course, but since potting stone has an inconspicuous gray color, the range of colors for your fireplace is very limited. The production of fireplaces abroad is also limited by appearance fireplace models. Custom fireplace design in this case is completely excluded. The large weight of the fireplace structure will also require additional installation of a foundation under the fireplace.

As seen, a fireplace made of aerated concrete has undeniable advantages in front of the other fireplaces. Individual design, simplicity, lightness of fireplace design, low cost of materials make this technology the best today. And only the studio ArtBrown will help you create the fireplace of your dreams!