The cherry tree is a true decoration of any garden, so this plant is in justifiable demand and popularity. To lay beautiful garden, you need to familiarize yourself with the reproduction features of this fruit plant. This procedure is simple. She demands basic knowledge concerning cherry breeding. There are several basic methods for propagating this crop. To achieve the desired result, you must strictly follow all the rules and recommendations.

Application of cuttings

Cherry propagation is an important process in garden maintenance. If you propagate from green cuttings, there is a significant advantage. This is due to the fact that the resulting varietal rooted homogeneous seedlings allow you to grow completely new, promising varieties fruit tree.

Before performing the propagation procedure with green cuttings, it is important to prepare a special greenhouse. For this purpose, a special mixture is laid in a ten-centimeter layer on the bed. Its composition should include river sand and peat in a one to one ratio. The resulting substance is leveled, and a 1.5 centimeter layer of sand is poured on top. Before planting the cuttings, be sure to moisten the substrate.

Start in early summer preparatory work with cuttings. Reddened, hardened shoots that are cut from the tree are useful for this. The upper cut must be made above the bud, removing undeveloped foliage. As for the lower cut, it is made one centimeter under this bud. The length must be at least 30 centimeters. Pruning is done in the morning or evening, then the cutting must be placed in water.

To accelerate growth, all kinds of additives are used, which can be purchased at a specialty store. The drug is diluted in water, then a 1.5 cm shoot is placed in it. In the meantime, you can start preparing the place where the cuttings will be planted.

Algorithm of actions of the gardener:

• you need to carefully dig up the soil;
• make appropriate beds on the loosened area;
• mix sand with peat and place it at the bottom of the hole;
• then lay out a layer of sand;
• it is necessary to level and lay layers;
• water and fertilize the area with fertilizers.

After these steps, you can plant the cuttings. The shoots are planted vertically, maintaining the correct depth - no more than 3 cm. The distance between the cuttings is at least 8 centimeters. If you do not use stimulants, then you need to plant the shoots in the evening. Cover them with film. They should not be exposed to sunlight. During the first four weeks, careful care and watering are required. To grow a healthy fruiting tree, it is important to ensure good ventilation and humidity.

Cherry propagation by cuttings is used for the following varieties:

• Shubinka;
• Vladimirskaya;
• Youth.

The effectiveness of the technique depends on the individual characteristics of the varieties, the timing of this manipulation, and the age of the particular fruit tree.

Successful use of shoots

If you do not have the opportunity to use cuttings at home to grow a cherry tree, there are others, no less effective ways. Some gardeners successfully propagate by root shoots. This technique is very popular and is common in regions located in cold climate zones. Considering that the root growth is not affected by frost, it can be used during the propagation process. It is important to choose the right raw materials. It is strictly forbidden to use weak root shoots, or those that are close to the mother root.

If you cut off closely spaced shoots, you can grow a very weak tree. The best choice– root cuttings two years old, having a well-developed root system. Cut down a specific sample, lubricate the cut with varnish. The separated part is left for the whole summer so that it can grow a powerful root system.

Prepare the place, dig up the above-mentioned sample in the fall, and replant. The pit should be located on a hill, its depth is 3 meters. Don't forget to enter organic fertilizers. Then plant the root shoots. Place a stake nearby, fill in a layer of fertile soil, then trample the ground and water it.

Stone fruit propagation and its features

If other methods of propagating cherry crops do not suit you, you can use an ordinary seed. This method is used in summer, autumn and spring. Growing cherries from pits is possible at home.

The stone is separated from the pulp, thoroughly washed with a manganese solution, and placed in a damp area. Carry out preparatory work with the soil, loosen it, and treat it with organic fertilizers. Sowing is performed to a depth of 4 centimeters, in special holes that are located at a distance of 30 cm from each other. If everything is done correctly, you can grow a wonderful seedling. At the beginning of spring, seeds begin to sprout. The shoots need to be thinned out, leaving the strongest, healthiest ones.

Growing Chinese Cherry

Chinese or felt cherry is a small shrub whose height does not exceed two and a half meters.

Chinese cherries will bear fruit only if planting is done correctly. The Chinese variety of this fruit tree takes root well in sandy loam soil and light loam. As for acidity, it should be neutral. In case of acidic soil, liming is carried out. To grow this variety, it is necessary to perform competent reproduction.

Chinese cherry can reproduce as follows:

• cuttings;
• seeds;
• graft.

Reproduction using seeds is considered the most accessible and convenient. Seeds need to be collected from ripe fruits, planted in a box filled with sandy soil, then placed in a cold basement for stratification to take place.

As for cuttings, the raw materials must be prepared in early July, when the fruiting period ends. The shoot needs to be trimmed, the foliage removed, and planted in a shaded bed. It is advisable to ensure good air humidity. This variety of cherry has good resistance to common diseases. She must be protected from the following pests: codling moth, aphid and scale insect.

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Natalia Kuharchik 01/23/2014 | 4735

There are many ways to propagate cherries that are successfully used in practice. But which one to choose? Let's discuss the pros and cons of each of them.

The most commonly used classic budding selected varieties for seed rootstocks, which have recently been increasingly replaced by clonal (vegetatively propagated) ones. Such seedlings combine a strong root system, high winter hardiness and good quality fruits When using clonal rootstocks, their positive characteristics can be added to their weak growth, rapid entry into fruiting, etc. Disadvantages are the inability to use root shoots for propagation and the lack of certain skills and abilities for their cultivation.

Less common method growing own root plants by cuttings from non-lignified and woody shoots. In this case, the seedling retains the characteristics of the variety. Success depends on the ability of the variety to form roots on annual shoots and high, almost 100% humidity during cuttings.

Rooting green(non-lignified) or semi-lignified cuttings carried out during the period of completion of active summer growth vegetative shoots(usually from mid-July). Before cuttings begin, it is necessary to prepare containers with a very light substrate. Expanded clay, a mixture of peat and sand, perlite or washed sand are laid on the bottom in layers (5 cm each). The substrate is well moistened. The shoots are cut from the trees early in the morning and cut into 15-20 cm cuttings in a cool room. The lower cut is made with a sharp knife on an oblique under the bud, from which the leaves are completely removed. The remaining leaf blades are reduced by a third or half. The bottom of the cutting is dipped in special growth powder (for example, Kornevin) or kept for a day in a solution of indolylbutyric acid (IBA) at a concentration of 250 mg/l of water. Only 1 cm of shoot from the bottom cut is dipped.

After this, the cuttings are planted in prepared boxes with a substrate at an angle of 45 degrees, at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The first two weeks are kept at 100% humidity. Then, over the course of a month, it is gradually reduced to natural. In winter, the cuttings are stored without removing them from the boxes at a temperature of 0-4°C. In spring they are planted in open ground.

Very rarely cuttings of cherries using lignified cuttings, since the effectiveness of this method is extremely low. Shoots are harvested in the second half of October (during leaf fall). Before planting, they are cut into cuttings 25-30 cm long. The lower end of the cutting is treated with powdered growth stimulants and planted in an area with prepared light soil. When humidity decreases, water. At the end of July - beginning of August next year, the shoots are removed and one vigorously growing shoot is left.

Another common way to propagate cherries is root shoot separation. However, it is only suitable for rooted cherries, and if you are not sure of the origin of the tree, it is better not to risk it.

Concerning propagation of cherries by pits, then with this method the properties of the variety are not preserved. This method is used by breeders to develop new varieties. Out of tens and hundreds of thousands of seeds sown, they select only a few valuable plants. Therefore, probably only those who are always lucky in the lottery can propagate cherries by seeds.

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Cherries are no less common in the garden than apple trees or other fruit trees. In order not to spend money on a seedling for the garden every time, you need to know how to propagate cherries. Below we will look in detail at what methods exist and how they are performed correctly.

To know how to grow on your own plot of land cherry, it is necessary to understand how this crop reproduces. After all, this will allow you not to spend money on new seedlings, but to propagate the tree with the help of natural formations. Today, cherry cultivation is carried out using four methods:

• cuttings;
• vaccination;
• bones;
• shoots.

When choosing a propagation method, remember that the procedure can be carried out in spring or summer. Let's look at each method in more detail.

Cherry cuttings

Propagation of cherries by cuttings is considered the most in a simple way. This is an option vegetative propagation. Preparation of shoots begins at summer time- in June. You should choose green cuttings that harden and acquire a purple-red color at the base. If suitable branches are found, they should be cut from the mother tree. The best time for harvesting is the evening and morning periods. The weather should be cool.

Felt cherry is propagated by cuttings using previously prepared branches about 30 cm long. After cutting, they should be placed in water. In order for the cuttings to quickly take root, it is necessary to drop a growth regulator into the water. You can determine the required dosage using the instructions that come with the drug. Typically, heteroauxin is used for these purposes.

Cherry cuttings are tied into one bunch of 30 pieces. They are placed in water or a specially prepared solution for 18 hours. Each branch should be immersed 1.5 cm.

While the cut branches are standing in the water, you can prepare the beds. They are filled with a layer of soil mixture consisting of sand and peat. This layer should have a thickness of 10 cm. Coarsely graded sand is laid on top and leveled. Before the cuttings are planted, the pre-prepared beds should be well moistened and also added mineral fertilizing(for example, superphosphate).

If a growth stimulator was used when preparing the branches, then planting should be done in the morning. Otherwise, the procedure is performed in the evening, but not during the day.

Propagation of cherries by green cuttings involves proper care of the branches after planting them in pre-prepared soil. After planting, the branches are covered with film. She should stay in the garden for about a month. During this period, watering the plants is done using a sprayer or watering can. If the care was correct, then after 14 days the branches will form roots. Green cuttings should not be performed later, since it will be very difficult to root overly sprouted branches.

Reproduction by layering involves creating the same conditions and care for rooted cuttings in the future as for ordinary seedlings.

As you can see, cuttings are a simple process. This method is ideal for the following varieties: Turgenevka, Molodezhnaya, Polevka, Shubinka and Vladimirskaya.

Tree grafting

How to propagate felt cherry or any other variety as efficiently as possible? To do this, you can use vaccination. This method when correct execution gives very good results.

Two- or one-year-old wild seedlings are used here. They will be vaccinated the best varieties having the characteristics necessary for the gardener (for example, early ripening, etc.).

Harvesting of shoots can be carried out both in spring (in southern regions), and in the first ten days of winter. Branches must have a diameter of at least 5 mm. Felt is removed from them (if it is formed due to the characteristics of the variety). Sections of the samples taken must be placed in water that has room temperature. Then several cuttings are cut from one shoot. Each segment must have at least 4 buds.

To prevent drying out, each shoot is treated with a special paraffin-wax mixture. If such treatment has taken place, then after grafting the cuttings should be covered with plastic wrap and not removed until new shoots are formed.

Vaccination must be carried out before the stage of active sap flow. That's why best time It will be mid-March.

The following varieties can be propagated in this way: Fertile Michurina, Miracle Cherry, Sashenka, Yuzhnaya, etc.

How to propagate from seeds

Cherries propagate not only by cuttings and seedlings, but also by seeds. However, for cherries this is not the best the best option reproduction. The seeds taken for these purposes can be planted in autumn or spring. If the gardener took the seed of a purchased berry, then it can be planted in the summer.

If you start growing seeds in the spring, then they should be washed well and treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Next, without drying it, you need to place it in moistened moss or sawdust. If planting is carried out in the fall (October), then the seed sample is placed immediately on its permanent place growth. To do this, dig a hole 3-4 cm deep. A distance of 25-30 cm should be maintained between the holes. You can immediately pour 4-5 seeds into the hole. After winter, young shoots will begin to appear at the planting site.

It must be said that it is difficult to propagate fruit trees in this way, since the seeds do not always produce shoots. Cherries grown in this way will grow somewhat slower than when layering is used for propagation. And varietal species do not always pass on their characteristics to their offspring.

The list of varieties propagated by seeds includes: Shubinka, Polzhir Magalebskaya, etc. Felt cherries are also often propagated by seeds.

Reproduction by shoots

Another method of propagation is from shoots. It is very easy to breed cherries using this method. Often used in northern regions countries.

Here you need to know that not all young animals will be able to take root or transmit all the characteristics of the mother’s body. In order for a rooted shoot to bear fruit well, take only a healthy and strong shoot. It is not recommended to use closely growing and perennial shoots. It is best to give preference to two-year-old shoots that have a developed root system and branches.

Suitable specimens should be selected in the spring. They should grow at a distance of 20 cm from the mother tree. Using a shovel you need to cut the root of the selected shoot. Before this, the mother tree must be well fertilized. You should also loosen the soil tree trunk circle. In the fall, such shoots can be replanted.

The disadvantage of this method is that many varieties give a low percentage of shoot survival. This method is well suited for several varieties: Apukhtinskaya, Fertile Michurina, Rastunya, Lyubskaya, etc.

Knowing how cherry trees are propagated by shoots, you can quickly and cheaply create a cherry orchard on your site. Especially if you combine several methods of reproduction for greater efficiency.

Video “How to root green cuttings”

From this video you will learn how to properly root green cuttings.

Repeatedly everyone praises the propagation of cherries using cuttings and points out how many advantages this method has, but in the end they turn out to be completely unprepared for the difficulties that unexpectedly arise.

What is good and bad about the cutting technique specifically for cherries?

I'll start with the bad so that I can leave the good part for dessert. Cherry cuttings are carried out quite late - July or August, which does not allow the tissues of the cuttings to get stronger before winter cold, which means that they are much more susceptible to cold than all other plants and trees that have ever reproduced in this way in the plots. Not scary. This can also be overcome, but you will have to work hard to care for them in winter. If this doesn’t scare you, then feel free to go into battle and plant cherries using cuttings.

Also, if we propagate cherries using cuttings, they turn out to require moist soil and moisture much more often than the mother plant and seedlings grown from seeds. But this is not the most insurmountable aspect of the whole cultivation, which can be dealt with once or twice.

The good thing about the cutting method is that the cherry cuttings are as similar as possible to the mother plant, they have the same heredity in everything and are similar in all qualities, so this is only a plus for gardeners, because they are not ultimately faced with the unknown, but the completely expected sowing result.

How to propagate cherries from cuttings?

It is recommended to choose seeding material from the lower part of the crown, because they form roots much faster than other possible cuttings. The cut must be treated with a biogrowth stimulator, and any cuts on cherries, even the smallest ones, must be covered with ash, for example. You can also use a biostimulator for an adult plant - it will be more convenient and habitual for you to close it.

Cherry is a delicious juicy berry. But sometimes the tree that is in the garden begins to hurt, and it has to be cut down and a new one planted. Sometimes a gardener just wants to plant another one nearby or graft a cutting onto an existing one. ABOUT proper reproduction You will learn about homemade cherries, tree grafting and propagation from cuttings in this article.

Method of propagating cherries by cuttings

Cuttings are the most accessible and fastest method of propagating this berry, but there are some difficulties that you will have to face:

But propagating any variety of cherries by cuttings also has its advantages:

1. The new tree will be similar to the mother tree - just as strong (with proper care), and the berries will taste the same.
2. A new garden resident will bear fruit in less than 5 years.
3. The easiest way to buy a cutting is to cut it from a tree.

So, cuttings have both significant advantages and disadvantages. If you are ready to give a new plant a little attention and effort, this is good method for you.

It is better to propagate cherries by cuttings in early autumn or late summer; it is better to take cuttings from the lower branches. Be sure to treat the cut with a growth stimulator, and on the mother plant, cover the cut with ash.

In order for a tree to take root in open ground, it is necessary heat. In August – September it still remains 20-25 degrees.

A new plant requires constant watering and fertilization. But be careful not to overwater the roots, otherwise the process of rotting will begin. If you do everything correctly, by the cold weather the cutting will take root and it will be possible to spud it. After the cherry has overwintered, you should fertilize it again and wait for the first harvest.

Propagating cherries from young green cuttings is not particularly effective, but if you live in an area where it gets very cold in August, you can try this method. In this case, the cuttings are planted in mid-summer - at the very peak of the heat.

Green cuttings should be taken from a well-lit part of the crown after that. The cuts are made with a very sharp knife so as not to damage thin bark. Before planting, the cuttings should be soaked in fertilizer.

It is worth planting in pre-prepared soil - fertilize it with peat or bagged mixtures. This plant also requires abundant watering and hilling before winter.

Cherry grafting in spring, summer and autumn with buds and cuttings

Grafting mature cherry cuttings to mature trees is a good way to propagate this berry in cold areas, and is also the cheapest and most proven way to obtain a developed seedling.

You can get vaccinated if you want to improve taste qualities berries, make the tree more frost-resistant or improve its health. In this case, it is better to graft on large healthy trees, no older than 10 years. It is better to graft onto a tree of a different variety.

Which tree is best to graft cherry cuttings onto:

• for cherries of a different variety;
• on cherries;
• for plums (cherries are classified as plums);
• artificial rootstocks.

So, if you decide to graft a cutting onto a tree of a different variety, then it is better to do it on a strong, unpretentious and frost-resistant tree. You can vaccinate from mid-spring to early autumn. But, if you are new to this business, then it is better to do this during the period when the tree wakes up and begins to actively secrete sap - in April.

During this period, it is best to graft a new cherry with a bud - the most easy way for reproduction in spring. To do this you need to take green cuttings and cut off the shield with the bud from it. The length of the shield should be about 30 cm. On the plant on which you are going to graft, the bark is cut approximately along the length of the shield. Part of the bark is cut off completely, leaving about 10 cm on the branch.

After this, the shield is placed under the remaining bark in place of the cut one. The scion and rootstock are fastened together with a plaster, but so that the bud remains open.

Grafting cherry buds in the spring is a good way to propagate a tree for inexperienced gardeners or for those whose cherries are old and actively produce juice only during this period.

You can also do this in the summer. In this case, woody or green cuttings are used.

In order to graft a woody cutting, copulation grafting is used. It can be done “in a split” (part of the rootstock branch is cut off from above, a cut is made inside the branch, and grafted there young plant). You can also graft a cherry cutting in the summer “by the bark” (the upper part of the branch is cut off, an incision is made on the scion and on the rootstock so that you can connect them like puzzles). Both methods are equally effective - you just need to choose the one that is most convenient for you.

Be sure to tape the plants to each other with tape, tape or tape. Also, if it’s not too hot, it’s better to make a mini-greenhouse - wrap the scion area with a thick bag. Such heat will help the cuttings to take root faster and create comfortable conditions for an adult tree.

Grafting young cherries in the fall is only good if the tree is frost-resistant. It is necessary to use strong cuttings and graft “into the cleft.” You should not do this later than mid-September - otherwise the scion will not take root and will be “cut down” by the first frosts. In this case, it is better to use tape for fastening, and the bag with which you will wrap the connected parts should be tight and dry.

Summer grafting of cherries onto any tree using green cuttings

Summer grafting of cherries onto any tree using green cuttings is not much different from grafting with a bud. The only thing is that it is better to do it “by the bark” - make a thin cut on the green cutting and graft it onto a small branch. A green cutting can be pre-soaked in a product that accelerates growth. It is better if there are buds on the scion. It is also necessary to fasten the plants well and make a “polyethylene greenhouse”. You can moisten the bag with water, then the buds are guaranteed to bloom. But you should plant a green cutting no later than mid-summer, or better yet, at the beginning.

Rootstock for cherries: grafting on cherries and plums in summer (with video)

For cherries, a good rootstock is not only another resistant variety, but also a close relative of the sweet cherry - cherry. You can do this in the same way as with cherry grafting in early spring(end of March - beginning of April) and in summer (July).

In spring it is better to do this with weak plants, since during this period there is the greatest opportunity for successful fusion due to the active movement of juices. You can graft with a bud (when it is just beginning to emerge), or you can also graft with a mature cutting. If you are using a bud, you need to cut off part of the branch (scutellum) and graft it “into the butt”.

It is better to graft cherry onto a cherry tree in summer at least 1.5 months before the daytime temperature drops below 20 degrees. In this case, use a mature cutting, which is taken from the bottom of the crown. During the entire period while the parts grow together, you need to water the cherry well, protect the parts that are connected from too bright sun (it is better to plant on the western side of the tree).

Good way for grafting cherries onto a cherry tree - improved copulation. It is necessary to make wedge-shaped cuts on the rootstock and on the scion so that they are well connected, and tie them to each other with a dense layer of tape or plaster. It is this method that provides the greatest guarantee that the parts will grow back. But the branches must be the same in diameter.

Good as a rootstock frost-resistant varieties cherries: Lighthouse or Late Pink. If you take a whimsical variety, the scion will turn out to be weak and will produce little yield.

Grafting part of a cherry tree onto a plum tree is also a very common option among gardeners. Despite the fact that these trees are close relatives (cherry trees are related to plum trees), they do not grow together very well; ongoing care for grafting, additional moisture and fertilization of the plum. But if you do everything correctly, the variety of berries you get will be very sweet, tender and soft (if, of course, the plum is tasty). But the vaccination should be done only at the end of March - beginning of April, when the plum is active. It is better to graft a mature cutting.

Look at the video: it shows cherry grafting different ways, you can try the one you like the most:

Dwarf and other clonal rootstocks for cherries

If you are an experienced gardener and use the grafting method to breed new variety, you need to graft cherries onto a tree that was specially grown for this by biologists. Basically, such rootstocks are used to breed dwarf varieties. Such trees are called clonal.

There are a lot of clonal rootstocks grown for cherries, but the best of them are the following:

VSL-1 is a dwarf species. A tree from a seedling that is grafted onto it turns out to be half the size of the grafted variety. Suitable for any variety of cherries, as well as sour cherries. Resistant to frost and disease.

VSL-2– suitable for grafting any variety of cherries. The resulting tree is a quarter lower than the original variety. It is also frost-resistant, but requires constant watering, otherwise the harvest will be meager.

Gisella 2 is a dwarf species. Not all cherries take root on this dwarf rootstock: Silva, Summit and Burlat grow well. A tree from a seedling grows almost twice as tall as the initial variety. It is often bizarrely curved.

Of course, if you are not professionally breeding this berry, then there is no need for you to get a clonal rootstock tree and then propagate cherries with it. But if you see a seedling grown on such a rootstock for sale, be sure to take the opportunity to plant an unusual variety at home. True, they bear fruit for no more than 20 years.

If you are thinking about how to propagate cherries after years, the seedlings of which were grown on an artificial rootstock, then the solution to this problem is not as difficult as you think - you can try to propagate it by cuttings 5-7 years after the start of fruiting.

Cherry propagation by air layering

In order to propagate a fruit tree, air layering is sometimes used. Cuts are made on the fruiting branch, then this place is wrapped in plastic bag with the ground, the soil is constantly watered. Thus, roots sprout. Air layering Cherry branches are used extremely rarely. Since the layering method itself shows the greatest efficiency only on fruit trees. But if the tree is weak and the cuttings will not take root in open ground, and you do not want to propagate with a scion in order to maintain the identity of the variety, then you should use this method. But it can take two years for the branch to take root.

Varieties of sweet cherries and sour cherries suitable for pollination

Self-sterile varieties include:

	Northern	Folk
Amber	Syubarovskaya

It is noteworthy that the berries turn out to be very tasty - but in order for them to appear, certain conditions must be created.

Cherry varieties suitable for pollinating self-sterile trees:

These are all varieties with a high “efficiency factor”. They should be planted in close proximity to each other. Of course, the varieties will mix during pollination, but the hybrids can turn out very tasty, and if you plant three in one row different wood(two of which have pollen), then every year you can try cherries that taste a little different from last year's.

Pollination of cherries can be done by cherries. The resulting hybrids are dukes. But you need to ensure that the flowering dates of the trees coincide, and that the cherry itself does not turn out to be self-sterile.