It happens that having brought home a lush orchid, after a few days we can only “admire” its bare peduncle. From our article today you will learn what to do if your orchid’s flowers wither.
The first step is to understand the probable causes of this phenomenon. And they can be very diverse: from natural and obvious to alarming. Sometimes the situation can be corrected with “little blood”, and sometimes you have to work hard to save the flower. Let's look at the most common factors of flower wilting.
Drastic changes
Dry air
The most dangerous period for the Orchid family (and for all indoor plants) is winter. Natural light insufficient, intensively working radiators central heating, the lack of a natural temperature difference between day and night - all this does not affect the well-being of the orchid in the best way.
As a result of the intense flow of hot air from the battery, the orchid sheds the hatched buds as excess ballast, consuming the missing moisture.
Watering errors
For a crop during the flowering period, both excessive and insufficient watering are considered equally destructive. If you significantly reduce the amount of moisture when the orchid begins to form buds, you can provoke extremely short flowering and the fall of unopened buds.
It's even worse when the plant experiences excess moisture. In this case, the process of rotting of the roots begins, and the latter can no longer supply the flower with moisture in the required quantity. As a result, the plant sheds first buds and then flowers. If urgent measures are not taken, the leaves will begin to wither, and this can lead to the death of the entire plant.
Overheating or frostbite
As you know, the orchid does not like direct sunlight, preferring diffused light. By placing a pot with a plant on a south or west windowsill, you risk exposing your pet to overheating. In this case, organizing shelter from direct sunlight is prerequisite, otherwise the orchid may not only overheat, but also receive serious burns.
The result will be an intensive release of moisture on the leaves and peduncles of the crop, which root system it simply won’t have time to compensate. The result is dehydration of the plant and falling flowers.
A similar effect will occur when the plant is exposed to low temperatures. This happens if we want to save the orchid from the hot air rising from a working battery by moving the pot closer to the glass. Sometimes it is difficult to notice that one or more leaves are in contact with the surface of the glass, which means that frostbite is guaranteed to the plant in this place.
The plant is old
Wilting of flowers can be caused by the natural process of aging of the peduncle. When buying a blooming orchid, we don’t know how long the flowering has been going on, so it is likely that this process is coming to its logical conclusion. To protect yourself from such surprises, try to purchase plants whose flower stalks still have unopened buds.
Presence of pests
And another danger is insects. A particularly insidious pest for orchids is the mealybug. The plant (including leaves and flower stalks) should be wiped with a cotton swab dipped in soapy water, and also treated with an insecticide.
Is it possible to fix the situation?
Measures to save the crop will directly depend on the factor that caused the flowers to fall off. If the reason is the wrong location, you should rearrange the pot with the plant or remove negative factor. When the air is dry, you should place containers of water nearby or spray the orchid from time to time with a spray bottle.
If it overheats, you must immediately remove the plant to a safe place and avoid such situations in the future. As for pests, they need to be dealt with promptly and mercilessly.
Follow these simple rules, and your orchid will delight you with lush exotic flowers for a long time.
Video “Orchid flowers wither”
In this video, an expert will tell you what causes orchid flowers to wilt and what to do about it.
If earlier phalaenopsis was something of a curiosity for gardeners, now this plant can be seen in every second exotic lover. If you ask an experienced specialist how to provide for a flower complete care, he will advise you to put it on the windowsill and simply not disturb it. It would seem that you have purchased indoor plant, brought him to their home. But time passes and the orchid flowers begin to wither and fall off (this happens all the time). What to do if a similar problem happens to your greenery, and most importantly, why do the orchid’s flowers wither? We will try to answer these questions in the article.
Why do the flowers of the phalaenopsis orchid wither? important point, which a novice gardener simply needs to study. Often the cause of shedding of sluggish inflorescences is sudden change microclimate. Let's say you just bought an orchid in a store and brought it home. Of course, there is a high probability that the first time after purchasing the flower will not look good. And all because he painfully adapts to new living conditions.
Your main task is to create a favorable microclimate for the sluggish orchid and then monitor the condition of the flower specimen.
If the flowers continue to dry out and fall off, it means that you have disturbed the plant, or the temperature and humidity conditions in the room have changed dramatically. Bring the key nuances back to normal, and the orchid will develop to its fullest potential.
Natural aging process When orchid flowers quickly dry out and wither, the reason may be hidden in the banal aging of the peduncle. Very often, beginners purchase flowering plant
, hoping that this phase will last a few more months. But the problem is that you don’t know when the flowering process started. That is why you will soon be “lucky” to observe the aging and shedding of flowers.
To prevent this from happening too early, buy an orchid with barely opened flowers. It is advisable that there are still a few buds left on the stems - this way you will be sure that the flowering phase will not end after a couple of weeks. Remember that with natural aging, flowers fade gradually (those that bloomed first die off first).
for the plant - a well-lit window sill.
The orchid responds favorably to long daylight hours.
The main thing is that bright sunlight does not fall on the flower. But this applies to the summer period. In winter, it is recommended to do something to provide additional lighting to the orchid flowers. For example, artificial lighting has proven itself well. In the case of indoor phalaenopsis, it will be quite difficult for you to do without it.
Overheating or hypothermia How temperate climate not very suitable for growing phalaenopsis in the house, as it is often hot in the summer and stingy with lighting in the winter. IN The orchid may overheat if it is placed in a pot on the windowsill. In this case, the root system slowly dries out, and the flowers wither and fall off. You can solve the problem by removing the flower from the windowsill on hot summer days.
Batteries and other heating
Dry indoor air often contributes to flowering of an orchid. Flower growers usually face a similar situation in winter time. Heating devices are constantly running in the apartment, dry air gradually fills your home, and the humidity level drops. This moment has a detrimental effect on the orchid. If you want to keep the plant intact, it is better to move it away from radiators and radiators so that they are not nearby. Alternative solution– cover the battery with a wet towel. However, keep in mind: this procedure will need to be done often.
Air humidity
If orchid flowers bloom and fade, it is quite possible that the reason lies in excessive high level air humidity. In nature, phalaenopsis is an epiphytic plant, that is, it has bare roots. Domestic gardeners, as a rule, grow a flowering specimen in the ground. The problem arises if you chose the wrong pot for the plant at the time, and moisture is retained in it after the next watering. To prevent the blooming orchid from drying out, but also from wilting, take care to regularly ventilate your home. This way, the soil will dry out a little after moistening.
Proximity of fruits and vegetables
The orchid will bloom and wither if there are nuts, tomatoes or apples nearby. Interestingly, they contain ethylene gas, which can accelerate the opening of buds. Accordingly, the flowering phase passes too quickly, and soon home flower dries up and fades.
You can prevent the “aging” of an orchid if you remove nuts, tomatoes and apples away from the specimen.
Incorrect watering mode
What to do with an orchid if its flowers begin to bloom and fade faster? It is very important to ensure proper soil moisture. Remember that the soil in which phalaenopsis grows should be slightly moist all the time. It is recommended to irrigate the substrate frequently, but in small volumes. Otherwise, the root system of the flower will begin to rot.
Orchid pollination
If the flowers of an orchid begin to fade, what should you do? Sometimes the cause of this problem is the appearance of wasps, bees and other insects in the apartment, which can simply pollinate the phalaenopsis. Because of this, the flowers of the plant may soon wither, and even a seed pod will form on the stems. In this case, provide proper care for the flower, and soon it will again delight you with the formation of new buds.
Pest attack
- soak a cotton swab in soapy water;
- thoroughly wipe the stems and leaves of the dried plant, carefully removing insects;
- spray the orchid with insecticides.
This will not happen in the future if any threat is detected and eliminated in a timely manner.
Video “Why do orchid flowers fade”
From this video you will learn about why orchid flowers wither and how to deal with it.
For a long time, your pet delighted you with its beauty. And, suddenly, you notice fading. Possible subsequent fall. This problem occurs with leaves and flowers. What happened? We need to understand it in detail.
It's hard to watch when a plant you've been nurturing is dying. Moreover, there are species that are distinguished by their gorgeous foliage. But then they wither, turn yellow, and then fall off. Obviously your beauty is either sick, or you screwed up the care. Debriefing always begins by identifying factors.
Phalaenopsis are thermophilic. But everything has its own measure. Unacceptable things: your flower is constantly “under the gun” of the sun’s rays. The hot air from the air conditioner is directed at it. The heating radiator under the windowsill on which the pot stands is too hot. Plus low humidity(50% or less).
The trunk, leaves, flowers become very hot. The active process of moisture evaporation begins. The soil also suffers. It overheats, evaporating the water. The result is that the root system cools down. “Cold” roots stop consuming the required amount of moisture. This means the leaves don't get nutrients. Result: flabbiness, yellowness, withering. Everything happens quickly, in a few hours.
The following troubles occur with the root system: rotting; drying out. Why? First priority - improper care. The main factors influencing these processes:
Orchid is an epiphytic plant. That is, having “bare” roots. With them it is attached to rocks, trees, caves. Frequent, warm tropical rains abundantly water the root system. And since it is not reinforced with soil, the water drains completely. Warm air dries out the roots. So, until the next rain.
Home conditions make it difficult to maintain such a flower with bare roots. This requires more care. Therefore, most varieties grow in the ground. Let's say the pot is chosen incorrectly (wrong size), without a sufficient number of holes. Then, with abundant watering, the substrate will always be wet. Disease may occur. When the roots turn brown, lose their elasticity, and become sluggish, this means problems have begun.
It's simple. Keep your pet's living conditions as close to natural as possible. Abundant watering warm water– dripping – drying.
Drying is ensured by good room air circulation. Ventilate frequently, avoiding drafts. Another extreme of the previous point. If an “experienced” gardener tells you to water your phalaenopsis strictly every day, ignore such advice. First: every plant requires individual approach
. The type and origin influences. Second: meteorological parameters change daily. Something like: air temperature, humidity, sunshine, cloudiness. Start from this. In dry weather and high temperatures, water more often. When it gets cold or frosty, reduce watering. Be guided by the state of the substrate. It should be loose, moist (but not wet!). Many people think: the more fertilizer, the better. This is not true. There are feedings where different concentration
minerals. The roots are extremely sensitive to this or that substance. Suddenly, there is too much salt, the plant may die. It also takes into account the variety, periods of growth, dormancy, and flowering.
Sometimes the orchid is transplanted into a new container with new soil. Firstly, the root system grows and the old pot becomes small. The roots also suffer. Secondly, due to excessive watering, salts, the appearance of mold and fungi, the substrate is destroyed. It becomes more dense. Air circulation deteriorates. The roots sense a lack of oxygen. The consequence is that they “suffocate” and die.
- Roots are the circulatory system of the plant. Therefore, the combination of these factors causes problems for the leaves too.
Overheating: your actions. We create a shadow for the plant (just take it deeper into the room). Do not immediately fill it with water or spray it! Such actions cause the death of parts. Let it cool completely. Rest will take 2-4 hours. Then water as usual. Recovering water balance
If such a nuisance occurs, find a comfortable zone for the flower. You can't completely deprive yourself of sunlight. Give him a table near the window. Or another part of the house. Perhaps the direction of the world simply does not suit him.
When foliage wilts, overheating plays a role only in 10% of cases. The rest is a violation of root function. Conventionally, three degrees of injury are considered: mild, moderate, severe, and very severe. Unlike the first three, the last degree means the death of the root system, and therefore the plant.
- Take the phalaenopsis by the trunk and gently move it back and forth. Does it sit firmly in the ground? The likely cause is drought. It's OK.
- Move the pot away from the heat source. Let him rest for one hour.
- Afterwards, place the flower in a container of water. Temperature +30 – +40 degrees. Let it sit for about an hour.
- Immediately eliminate fertilizers or stimulants. Otherwise the situation will only get worse.
- Next, give your pet a warm, rich shower from top to bottom. Try to avoid flower stalks.
- Allow the water to drain completely. Dry the leaves with a natural cloth. Better than cotton.
- Choose a well-lit place for the orchid, avoiding direct sunlight. The air temperature is moderate, +18 – 25 degrees.
- Wait 2-3 days, the foliage will recover.
If there is no regeneration, it means that you started “reanimation” too late. IN in this case leaf tissue atrophy occurs. Or the death of part of the roots.
When the substrate with roots moves freely, remove it. Inspect the root system carefully. What can you see there?
Living roots. Most often they are green in color different shades. The main thing is elastic, hard, dense. Young roots are whitish when dry. Wet ones turn green. Old ones are darker.
Rotten roots. They are easy to identify. They Brown, soft, slippery. They resemble a hollow tube, when squeezed, moisture flows out.
Inspect carefully. Remove the rotten, dried part with a sterile knife. Everything should be removed down to healthy tissue. Sprinkle the sections with crushed activated charcoal. Alcohol-containing disinfectants will only do harm. Since they dry out, they can “kill” the green part of the root.
Even if there is only one living root left, the plant may well recover. Plant the root (at least 5-6 cm long) in a small bowl with fresh, damp substrate. When it dries out, renew your normal watering.
What a pity when luxurious buds suddenly fall off. There are reasons for everything. A plant is also a living being.
The factors that cause these processes are almost the same as with wilting and falling leaves. Let's just add a few things.
Changing your place of residence does not always bring pleasure. Orchids tolerate this especially hard. You bought a gorgeous flowering plant. They brought it home. This is where the trouble started. Just moving plus a new place had such an impact on your beauty. A different climate, different living conditions are enough for the flowers to begin to fall.
Withering, falling, dying - natural process. There is no eternal bloom. Some delight us with beautiful buds for a week or two. Others – several months. In addition, it is not known how long the phalaenopsis bloomed before you purchased it. Perhaps this period was just ending at the time of purchase.
Orchids are heat-loving. Transporting it in winter is one of the causes of the problem. Even when it is well packaged. At home, the temperature can also be lower than permissible. Set at 22 – 32 degrees. Depends on the periods. Stick to routines. Especially air humidity. Average rate– 70%. Its deficiency also serves as a factor in the fall of flowers.
Orchids need good air circulation. But a draft has a detrimental effect. It is enough to ventilate the room thoroughly.
Especially vegetables and fruits. Some of them emit ethylene. This gas stimulates the ripening of flowers, even unopened buds. Rapid ripening leads to rapid withering. Therefore, remove all products from the flower.
During warm periods, the pot is taken out to the open balcony to “breathe.” Small insects pollinate the plant. When everything happened successfully, the fading flower will be replaced by a seed pod. If not, then it will disappear.
Especially contributes to damage mealybug. He loves the juice of the buds. Externally it looks like cotton wool. Leaves behind a sticky residue.
The same as when leaves fall. Hypothermia causes the death of the plant. When stressed, provide care close to natural conditions.
Check daily for pests. Found - isolate the orchid from others. Remove the pest completely. Treat with insecticide.
Take proper care of your pet and everything will be fine!There are several reasons why orchid leaves wither. The first lies in the disruption of the biochemical process in the entire system. This often happens because the plant does not have enough moisture, it is overheated, or its roots are sick. If measures are not taken in time, the leaves will turn yellow, as a result of which the phalaenopsis orchid may die. If you notice the changes occurring in a flower early, it will not be difficult to help it.
Causes of leaf wilting and their elimination
A healthy flower has an elastic, hard, bright green sheet plate filled with moisture. When a plant gets sick, lower leaves become soft. The main reason lies in lack of nutrition. Nutrients are supplied from the soil first to the root system, then to the ground part of the orchid. Problems arise when the top doesn't have enough power. Diseases appear due to improper redistribution of necessary substances that go to the lower leaves , without reaching the top ones.
Orchid leaves with a lack of essential substances
A description of the causes of leaf wilting and methods for eliminating them is given in the table.
| Cause | Description | Method of treatment |
| Lack of moisture | This tropical plant A sufficient amount of moisture and non-dry air in the room is necessary. If it is not watered correctly, the leaves do not receive the right amount of liquid and become lifeless and lethargic, and then turn yellow. The guideline for the need for watering is the dryness of the soil in flower pot. The time interval doesn't matter. It is important to consider the size of the pot, the degree of looseness of the substrate and the temperature in the room. If the top layer of soil is dry, you must immediately water the orchid | If there is a lack of moisture, you need to water the flower more often or soak the roots in 0.1% succinic acid, holding them for about forty minutes in this solution |
| Excessive moisture and incorrect substrate density | The filler should be so loose that air can circulate well between it. With a dense substrate, the flower will consume a lot of moisture and begin to rot | If there is excess moisture, remove the plant from the pot and dry the roots. Then plant it in a container with a new substrate |
| Overheat | In the sun and in a hot room, the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid wither due to severe overheating. It is contraindicated for her to stand on the sunny side of the window, and she does not tolerate high temperatures. The roots of the flower dry out, and to compensate for moisture, it tries to get it from the leaves, after which they dry out and turn yellow | If it overheats, you should move the pot to a cooler place. If the plant is not severely damaged by the heat, it will recover in 3-4 days. Do not spray the flower to cool it. This will only make the situation worse. The orchid is sprinkled with water to moisturize, and not to lower the temperature of a plant that has overheated in the sun. |
| Frostbite | If the temperature in the room drops below 16 °C, the flower freezes. Orchid leaves lose turgor - fleshiness and elasticity - and become wrinkled | If it freezes, you should put the orchid in a warm place, making sure that there is no sudden increase in temperature. It is better if it rises smoothly. You cannot place a frozen flower near hot battery. The orchid risks getting burned immediately after frostbite and dying |
| Excessive supply of fertilizers | If the leaves dry out and turn yellow, it means that the plant has an excess of salts contained in the fertilizer. The orchid is sensitive to feeding with minerals, and it is important not to overdo it so as not to harm the tropical flower | You should immediately replace the substrate with a new one and do not overuse it with mineral supplements. |
| Pests | Development of a colony of mites on leaves. Tiny white and red insects suck out the sap, dooming the orchid to slowly wither. Woodlice, aphids, nematodes, thrips, ants and millipedes of various types can also live in the pot. | The entire plant must be washed thoroughly. Carefully remove visible insects from the leaves. Spray with fitoverm or actellik, repeating the procedure after 8-10 days. After the first spraying, transplant into a clean pot with a new substrate. |
Root system
This capricious flower demands increased attention to your root system. Due to their illness, phalaenopsis orchids are sluggish, soft leaves and unhealthy appearance. It is necessary to carefully examine the roots - in normal condition they are light green with a silvery tint, elastic and dense. There should be no plaque or wrinkled areas. If, when you press on the root, liquid is released or brown spots appear, it means that it has begun to rot.
In the presence of putrefactive processes, it is necessary:
- 1. Remove roots that have begun to rot and dry.
- 2. Process the sections activated carbon, having previously crushed it.
- 3. Transplant the orchid into a new substrate.
- 4. Treat leaves daily succinic acid until they regain their natural elasticity.
These procedures will restore health to the roots, and the leaves will not wither.
Roots of a diseased plant
The cause of the disease is a lack of air masses in the substrate. Air does not penetrate well through dense filler. Most best soil comes from old ones coniferous trees who had been lying in the forest for a long time. Before use, they are doused with boiling water three times to open the pores, which will retain moisture well.
The health of the orchid depends on the correctly selected substrate. Too dense bark in a flower pot does not absorb water well, leaving excess moisture for the roots.
Transplantation as a treatment method
Like any indoor plant, an orchid needs to be replanted. After some time, the substrate becomes moisture-intensive and has a bad effect on the health of the flower. It needs to be changed when it deteriorates from tap water or the plant's leaves wither and flowers do not grow. At the same time, transplantation is stressful and is performed no more than once every two or three years. But it also happens that you have to urgently replant the plant. Treatment with this procedure is done in the following cases:
- the bark turns to dust;
- there is an excess of moisture;
- the roots began to rot;
- leaves withered or turned yellow;
- the orchid “hangs out” in the soil;
- pests live in the container (slugs, nematodes, aphids, woodlice, millipedes);
- The root system is too large to fit in the pot.
The spring months are suitable for a planned transplant, when the tops begin to active growth, and the sun smoothes out stress. Without a good reason, you should not disturb the plant during the cold period (October-February). During transplantation you cannot do without:
- pruning shears;
- scissors;
- 70% alcohol;
- a new plastic pot with holes;
- activated carbon;
- new pine bark.
Alcohol is needed to treat tools before cutting diseased roots and leaves. First you need:
- 1. Remove the plant from the pot. Try not to damage the root system; if you can’t do it carefully, you need to cut the container.
- 2. Carefully release the roots from the substrate, shaking off unnecessary bark. If you need to separate them, it is recommended to do this from the bottom up. Roots that have grown into the substrate are usually not touched.
- 3. Check for pests. If insects are found, soak the orchid in water for several hours. Then treat it with Actellik or Fitoverm.
- 4. Trim rotten and dead roots with sharp scissors, without touching healthy ones. Treat cut areas with activated carbon.
- 5. Transplant into a new pot so that there is space for roots to grow. First add drainage, then the plant itself and turn it slightly. Add pine bark and lightly tap (on the table or floor) so that the flower shrinks well.
It is recommended to place large pieces of bark at the bottom of the container, and small pieces at the top. If there is no new pot, then the old one needs to be treated with an alcohol solution (70%). After transplantation, do not water so that the water does not stagnate and the roots undergo regeneration.
The Phalaenopsis orchid is an exceptionally beautiful and most popular hybrid of the domestic orchid. These amazing plants differ from other house flowers, and they require special care.
No matter where you get your phalaenopsis orchid from, it wouldn’t hurt to quarantine it for a month just in case and place it away from other representatives of the home greenhouse. Phalaenopsis are considered unpretentious, but it happens that the plant begins to...
Having discovered that the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid are withering, wrinkled, covered in spots, or otherwise changing, the caring owner tries to figure out what needs to be done in such cases.
The leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid have wrinkled, what to do?
At some point, you may notice that your pet's leaves withered and began to wrinkle. It’s not so difficult to understand why the leaves are wrinkled: most likely, it lacks moisture. You need to reconsider the principle of watering and spraying the plant and, most likely, everything will work out very quickly.
Important! If after the first watering the situation has not improved, then the problem is not in the water, and you need to look for another cause of the flower’s disease.
If you are sure that watering is normal, but the orchid evaporates moisture too actively, you need to choose a cooler place for it. There is a “first aid” recipe for such cases: sugar syrup. Dilute four teaspoons of sugar in a glass of water, apply with a brush in several layers to the lower surface of the sheet overnight. Be sure to wash it off in the morning: the plant must breathe. 
You can use this recipe 2-3 times, but only if the leaf has no mechanical damage, and if you are sure that the disease was not caused by any microorganisms, because sugar is an excellent nutrient medium.
Why do the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid wither, damage to the root system
If you have watered and irrigated your plant well, but the leaves don’t seem to be getting better, and even seem to look worse, look at the root. When an orchid has flabby, limp, soft, yellowing and dying leaves, the cause is almost always in the roots.
Did you know? The phalaenopsis orchid is a very tenacious plant; it is able to recover even with one 5-6 cm root. If there are no roots left at all, but the orchid is not exhausted to the limit, even in this case you can try to revive it.
Softness may indicate a lack of calcium or phosphorus, but damaged roots are the most likely and common (9 out of 10 cases) reason why an orchid has soft leaves. You should carefully move the orchid in the pot, checking whether it is firmly in the soil. If it “wobbles” like a sore tooth, it means that the root system has suffered considerable damage. 
You need to remove the orchid from the pot and carefully examine the roots. Dry, rotten, slimy and decaying roots should be removed with a sharp, clean knife to healthy tissue. Treat the cut with crushed charcoal or an antiseptic without alcohol. You cannot feed the plant until the wounds are completely healed.
Important! If you treat the cuts with a substance containing alcohol, it will spread through the capillaries, causing irreparable harm to the already unhealthy plant.
Causes of spots on phalaenopsis leaves
One day you may discover that your orchid has spots on its leaves. These may be burn marks, as well as areas of viral, bacterial or fungal infection. The last two can be difficult to distinguish from each other, since the symptoms are very similar: both pathogens leave spots on the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid.
Did you know? Main distinguishing feature fungal infections - no odor.
The appearance of spots can be a serious problem not for one plant, but for the entire home greenhouse, since infectious diseases are contagious. If you suspect this, you should not panic. First you need to isolate the plant with signs of disease, then figure out why the spots appear on the leaves. Depending on the pathogen, they have different appearances.
Transparent spots on orchid leaves. Spots appear on the leaf, dry out and become transparent. Most likely, this is a fungal infection, but it could also be viral. 
Brown spots on the leaves of a phalaenopsis orchid. A fungal infection is small brown spots that increase in size and eventually the leaves of the orchid turn completely brown. Viral infections can begin with brown spots, which as the disease progresses become black and depressed in appearance. 
Wet, watery spots with a yellow rim on orchid leaves– most likely bacterial soft rot (Erwinia). It smells like rotting vegetables, it develops rapidly - before you know it, the orchid leaves have already become watery and lifeless. It starts with a small spot. Wet spots may be the result of heat or sunburn. Such damage has a dark rim. They do not recover and are not dangerous in terms of infection, although they spoil the appearance of the flower. If stains appear due to burns or other mechanical damage, you should review the maintenance regime and avoid this in the future. If the plant is infected, immediate measures should be taken. 
Black spots appeared on the leaves of the orchid. Blackening spots on your orchid are a sign of late blight, chlorosis, phyllostictosis (black spot) and other dangerous fungal diseases. A viral infection can also manifest itself as black spots. 
If The trunk of the orchid turns black, this is most likely black rot - the most dangerous fungal disease. She loves flowers that have already been weakened by some disease and joins this disease with pleasure. If a significant part of the plant is affected, it is no longer possible to save it. The cause of this disease is low temperature. Treatment consists of removing the affected parts with processing of the cuts, replacing the substrate, disinfecting the pot, isolating it from other plants and strict monitoring of the entire greenhouse. Of course, you need to create the most favorable conditions for plants. 
Important! Regardless of the pathogen, the diseased plant should be quarantined away from other house flowers and be as attentive as possible to the conditions of its maintenance: lighting, watering, fertilizing, air circulation. Cut off the damaged areas with a sterile instrument to healthy tissue.
General principles of treatment depending on the pathogen.
- Bacterial diseases. Reduced air humidity, additional circulation. Removing the affected tissue with a sterile instrument. Treatment for at least five days with a bactericidal agent: streptocide, furatsilin, gentamicin, etc.
- Viral infections. Specific treatment viral infections does not exist, therapy is aimed at removing fragments affected by the disease, creating favorable conditions and strengthening the immune system.
- Fungi. Cutting off the diseased parts with a sterile instrument, stopping spraying until completely cured, treating with fungicidal preparations not in a preventive, but in a therapeutic concentration.
The orchid's leaves have become limp and soft
Provided that the roots are not damaged, the causes of this disease may be the following:
- Overheating of roots. The pot with the plant should be moved to a cooler place and left alone for an hour or two. The main thing is gradualism; in no case should you suddenly cool the orchid. After resting, it should be watered and irrigated abundantly. This procedure may take several days for complete recovery.
- Excessive amount or lack of moisture. In these cases, you need to change your fluid intake regimen. When watering, you need to focus not so much on the timing, but on the condition of the substrate, the drying of which can be influenced by many factors.
- Too much or too little fertilizer. A high concentration of fertilizer can burn the roots of the plant. If you have “overfed” the orchid and understand that this is the cause of the disease, you should completely replace the substrate, inspect the roots and remove the damaged ones. If the flower is “underfed”, you need to adjust the system. Keep in mind that damaged parts of the plant will not be able to recover.
- Required. If there are too many roots in the pot, the substrate has oxidized, caked and lost its main function - air permeability, the plant needs to be replanted because it has begun to suffocate. Another reason is that the substrate may be infected with a soil fungus.
