Proper watering of plants. The power of the root system of vegetable crops is the basis for calculating irrigation rates

Watering rules

Timely and proper watering plants - another condition normal development. You should never allow a plant to wilt. A signal about the need for watering can be the drying of the top (1.5–2 cm) layer of soil. With some skill, you can recognize the need for watering by the sound that a vessel with drying soil makes when tapped. It sounds like it's empty.

From general rules watering should be remembered:

– on cloudy, cool days you should water less frequently than on clear, sunny days;

– when the air in the room is dry and warm, you need to water more abundantly than when the air is humid and colder;

– plants grown in loose, light soil are watered more often than those growing in dense, heavy soil;

– newly transplanted plants, the roots of which have not yet penetrated the entire earthen ball, should be kept drier, otherwise the soil near the walls of the containers may rot and the plants will get sick;

– by how quickly a clod of earth dries out, one judges the state of the plant’s health: if it is healthy, it absorbs water vigorously and requires frequent and abundant watering.

A big challenge for plants grown indoors are periods when they go without water for a day, two, or even longer periods of time. This happens, for example, in the summer, when apartment owners go to the country. They get out of the situation in different ways. Some people, without hesitation, place a pot with a plant in a basin of water during their absence. But if this is done for a long time, it can lead to rotting of the roots and death of the plant.

Siphon (drip) irrigation is much more effective. Take thin plastic or rubber tubes and lower one end into a container of water, with the end of the tube being almost at the very bottom. The other end of the tube is lowered down so that it hangs below the bottom of the container with water - water will begin to flow out of it. Next is the most important stage of setting up homemade watering equipment: by selecting the thickness of the tubes or regulating the rate of water flow out in any other way (for example, raising or lowering water tubes), it is necessary to ensure that approximately the amount of water that should flow out of the tube per day absorbed by the plant. In summer this is approximately a glass or one and a half glasses. If the water pressure is too high, the plant pot will quickly turn into something like an aquarium with liquid mud.

Having adjusted the water flow rate, insert the end of the tube that supplies life-giving moisture to the pot into the ground to a depth of 2-3 cm. And now you can safely leave home for at least a week - the described watering method will not let you down.

What kind of water should I use?

Oxygen is of great importance for the normal activity of plant roots. It is partially contained in irrigation water. Many people avoid watering their plants. boiled water, there is supposedly no oxygen in it. This is not true. But there is so little oxygen dissolved in both unboiled and boiled water that the roots cannot exist due to its quantity. Oxygen in water makes up only a small fraction of necessary for plants volume of this life-giving gas.

Water often contains excess mineral salts. This type of water is called hard. Water from wells is especially hard. It is of little use for watering indoor plants.

When boiling hard water, most of the harmful salts dissolved in it precipitate, forming the well-known scale. The water becomes soft, quite suitable for watering plants. Of course, you can’t pour boiling water on it; you need to let the boiled water cool until room temperature or higher by 4–5 °C, watering lightly warm water(25–30 °C or slightly higher) has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of plants, especially fast-growing vegetables.

If plants are in a dormant period (for example, deciduous fruit in winter), then under no circumstances should they be watered with warm water at this time. From such watering they begin to grow prematurely, become exhausted and die. Plants that have stopped growing during winter dormancy should be watered with water colder than the air temperature in the room, even water with snow.

At the same time watering cold water flowering, developing plants can cause root disease, falling of flowers and ovaries.

Watering also depends on the size of the container in which the plant is grown. Those plants that grow in small or medium-sized pots should be watered more often than those growing in large tubs or in groups in common boxes.

Some useful tips:

– if water appears in the pan after watering, leave it there for no more than 1–2 hours, then drain it. Leaving water in the pan until completely absorbed is possible only during the period of vigorous growth and development (flowering, fruiting) of plants;

– if one-time watering is enough, then it is better to do it in the evening. It is very useful to spray the plants with water, also in the evening (at least every other day or two), as if washing the foliage and stems with rain. Do not forget to cover the ground during this procedure.

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For a gardener, a garden and vegetable garden should be economically profitable. Planting and growing vegetables and fruits is profitable when we get a harvest High Quality in a short period of time. The high quality of vegetables and fruits is their juiciness, freshness, and pleasant taste. All this will be ensured if you properly organize watering of the garden. If there is a lack of water in the soil, it is impossible to obtain high-quality vegetable products. Vegetable crops have root systems of varying thickness. The irrigation rate for each plant, watering methods, the number of waterings per season and when during the growing season of a vegetable plant watering will be most useful depends on this.

Among vegetable crops There are biologically drought-resistant species - watermelon, melon, beans, as well as species that adapt to insufficiently moist soil - tomatoes, carrots, parsley, beets. However, with a lack of water, their harvest is small, and taste qualities products are unsatisfactory.

With a lack of water in the soil and low air humidity, the growth of seedlings and seedlings is delayed, and changes in the growth and development of vegetable crops that are unfavorable for the gardener occur. So, the flowers and ovaries of cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants fall off. Salad, cauliflower, radishes, radishes are thrown out prematurely, the food part of these crops, as well as celery, potatoes, and kohlrabi, becomes coarse. Onions and garlic in the 3-4 leaf phase weaken growth - the bulbs are crushed.

The power of the root system of vegetable crops is the basis for calculating irrigation rates

The moisture needs of vegetable crops, just like other plants, depend on environmental conditions - air temperature, soil, their humidity, light, wind strength. As the intensity of these factors increases, the transpiration (evaporation of water) of plants increases, and the absorption of water from the soil increases accordingly.

In addition to the reaction to the intensity of weather conditions, the need of plants for moisture is determined by their biological features(see Table 1).

Table 1. Development of roots in different types vegetable crops

The following groups of crops are conventionally distinguished:

1st group. Includes heat-resistant, air drought-resistant species: watermelon, melon, pumpkin, vegetable corn, beans.

2nd group. Species with a well-developed root system, which allows them to use a large volume of soil to absorb water: cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, carrots, beets, parsley, potatoes, beans, peas. At the same time active growth, the formation of a crop in these species is facilitated by the rapid, powerful development of the root system, in a relatively shallow layer of soil, abundantly moistened with regular watering. This must be taken into account when options are limited.

3rd group. Species that are unable to extract water from the soil in large quantities due to insufficient development of the root system: cabbage, lettuce, radish, radish, onion, garlic. In this case, the first four types consume a large number of water for transpiration (evaporation of water by plants).

Optimal humidity, irrigation rates, quantity and time of watering vegetable crops

For vegetable crops, soil moisture, with some exceptions, is maintained at a level not lower than 70% of the maximum field moisture capacity (FMC), the optimal level as a percentage of FMC for vegetable crops is as follows:

Tomatoes:

  • early – 80%,
  • average – 70-80%,
  • late – 60-80%,

Pepper

  • early – 80%,
  • late – 80%,

Potato

  • before tubers form – 70%,
  • during tuber formation – 80%,

White cabbage – 80-90%,

cucumbers – 85-90%,

Onion – 80%,

Watermelons, melon, pumpkin – 70%.

The specified soil moisture is maintained by periodic watering, the rate of which is determined depending on specific conditions:

  • Moisture-recharging irrigation is given at a rate of 100-300 liters per m 2.
  • Pre-sowing or pre-planting - give at a rate of 50-80 liters per m 2.
  • Pre-planting - when planting seedlings, 0.5-1.0 liters of water per hole. Depending on weather conditions, pre-planting watering is done at small rates - 10-20 liters per m2.

Vegetative watering of the garden lasts the entire period of growing plants until harvest. In different soil and climatic zones, from 1-2 to 15-20 irrigations are carried out with a rate of 10 to 80 l/m2. During the daytime (hottest) time of day or in the evening southern regions Make refreshing waterings in small portions of 2-4 l/m2.

Approximate norms and number of growing season irrigations of vegetable crops for the southern zone of the European part of Russia are given in Table. 2.

Table 2. Irrigation rates, number and time of watering vegetable plants and potatoes


In years with insufficient moisture, the number of waterings increases accordingly by two to three. In addition, in the hottest times, it is recommended to carry out refreshing watering at a rate of 5-7 liters per 1 square meter. m. We draw the attention of readers: the watering period must be determined before the plants show signs of insufficient water supply: wilting of leaves, residual water deficiency, falling of fruits and ovaries. In this case, it is impossible to compensate for crop losses.

In table 2 watering times are aimed at periods of greatest sensitivity of the plant to lack of water. Additional watering or its cancellation should be placed between these dates.

Watering the garden is carried out depending on specific conditions. Water the plants in the evening (in hot weather) or in the morning (if the nights are cold). It is better to finish evening watering by 19:00 in the evening, so that the moisture that gets on the leaves evaporates by night.

Ways to water a garden

Watering along furrows and checks

Watering vegetable plants small area gardening is carried out mainly superficially, running water. Water is distributed over the entire surface or part of the soil surface. Surface irrigation can be done along furrows or checks. In the conditions of an amateur garden, where there is almost no opportunity good alignment area, irrigation in furrows or checks is very suitable from the point of view of proper irrigation, uniform distribution of irrigation water, especially on light soils.

Comb decoration

The ridges are made as follows: using a hoe, manual hoe or plow, furrows are cut, the distance between which depends on the vegetable crop that will be planted in this area. Most often it is 60-70 cm. In this case, small earthen banks are formed between the furrows - they are called ridges. After this, transverse furrows are also cut with a plow or hoe at a distance of 5-6 m from each other. These transverse furrows will be used for irrigation and design of beds. Every second or every second or third ridge is cut from the inside (at both ends) so that water can circulate during irrigation (Fig. 1. A). The ridges are leveled, the furrows are first compacted and then leveled. Thus, the area is designed for better water movement. The ridges are suitable for growing many vegetable crops - tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cabbage, carrots, parsley, etc. - on heavy soils, especially in rainy spring.


Fig.1. Organizing combs and checks

Issuing checks

Checks are flat rectangular or square areas fenced with ridges ( earthen rolls). The plot is divided into beds 5-6 m wide, limited by irrigation furrows. Rectangular checks are placed from one irrigation furrow to another with a width of 1.2 to 1.5 m. Square checks are made by dividing each bed into 2 parts with a comb, cutting with transverse ridges every 2 m. This produces almost square checks measuring 2.5 x 2 m. Checks are used for growing many vegetable crops - peppers, onions, cabbage, leeks, cucumbers, etc., also on light sandy soils (Fig. 1. B).

Watering the garden with a watering can

It is usually recommended to use a watering can when growing seedlings in greenhouses or on open beds. The rate of watering depends on the weather, the characteristics of the vegetable crops being grown, the properties of the soil, the condition of the seedlings, etc. In practice, to moisten the soil layer in a greenhouse 15 cm thick, on the soil, per 1 sq. m. m you need to pour 40-50 liters (4-5 watering cans) of water. On open ridges, water consumption increases, since the soil layer dries out to a greater depth, the roots of plants are located deeper, which can be determined experimentally. If the soil dries out too much, you first need to water it lightly with a watering can, and after some time give the required remaining amount of water. To ensure the irrigation norm, repeated watering is sometimes required at intervals necessary for the soil to absorb moisture. With a one-time application of the irrigation norm, the moisture will not have time to be absorbed by the soil, which will lead to stagnation of water on its surface or to loss of moisture as a result of surface runoff. You can water not the entire bed, but the root zone of the plants.

Regulation of relative air humidity (sprinkling)

Vegetable plants have different requirements for relative air humidity. Some of them, for example, cucumbers, cauliflower, lettuce, spinach, require high relative air humidity of 80-95%, while others, such as tomatoes, watermelons, melons, require a lower 50-60%. However, some combinations of air humidity and temperature create conditions for the emergence of diseases and pests, which requires regulation of these factors. By increasing or decreasing the number of waterings of the garden with running water, you can regulate the relative humidity of the air. Refreshing watering of the garden by sprinkling also has a beneficial effect on plants due to increased air humidity.

In personal gardens it is impossible to carry out sprinkling in the same way as it is done in fields, but here, using a hose with different tips or using an electric pump, irrigation pipes of the appropriate length, with sprayers at the ends, you can achieve the sprinkling effect. By sprinkling, it is easier to ensure the optimal irrigation rate, since it helps reduce fluctuations in water content of the soil or plants. This is of great importance for such vegetable crops as peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, beans, potatoes, root vegetables, etc., which cannot tolerate waterlogging. Sprinkling has a particularly good effect for all varieties of cabbage (white cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, savoy), spinach, leaf lettuce, head lettuce, etc. Sprinkling of vegetable plants must be carried out in calm weather, since when there is wind, water falls in large drops on the plants. If you have to sprinkle in the wind, then the water stream must be oriented in the direction of the wind. Most the right time for sprinkling - after lunch, in the evening, at night. This is especially important to observe when sprinkling peppers or cucumbers, as it prevents burns or diseases. After fruit formation, tomatoes can be watered only at night or early in the morning to prevent the fruit from cracking.

Water-recharging garden irrigation

Water recharging is the watering of fruit trees and shrubs, which ensures thorough wetting of the soil to the depth of the bulk of the plant root system. For a fruit-bearing apple tree on weak or medium-growing rootstocks, the depth of the root system is 80-100 cm, for cherries and plums - 60-70 cm, for shrubs - 40-60 cm, etc. As a rule, moisture-recharging irrigation is carried out after a dry summer or insufficient precipitation in the fall. The degree of soil moisture can be easily checked during deep autumn digging. Water-recharging watering is necessary even if you watered your fruit trees throughout the summer or there were good rains in the fall. Such watering has a positive effect on the condition of plants and their frost resistance.

The root system of trees, experiencing moisture deficiency in the summer, autumn periods, does not provide the necessary conditions to prepare plants for overwintering. There is a risk of winter drying out of individual branches, especially against the background of frost, strong winds, and in the absence of snow. The likelihood of trees being damaged by winter sunburn of the bark on trunks and skeletal branches also increases. When the soil dries out in winters with little snow, fruit-bearing dwarf trees With the root system located superficially, in young gardens there is also a danger of roots freezing.

The timing of moisture-recharging irrigation for Kuban is the end of October - November, for middle zone Russia - August-September, i.e. here and there - after massive leaf fall. At the same time, the watering rate for fruit-bearing apple trees is up to 60-90 liters per 1 m² of crown projection, for young apple trees, cherries and plums - up to 35-50 liters, and for berry bushes - up to 40 liters.

By the way, I often come across arguments that wet soil freezes more easily, and this is dangerous for the root system of trees. Nothing like this! It's just the opposite! Sufficiently moist soil retains heat better in winter. After a dry summer, even if you diligently watered your garden all season, moisture-recharging watering is required when the trees shed their leaves.

For local wetting of the soil near trees, at a distance of 60-80 cm from the trunks, it is better to water in furrows located around the circumference. The depth of such furrows for fruit-bearing apple trees is 10-20 cm, stone fruits with a superficial root system (cherry) up to 10 cm, and damage to the roots must not be allowed when digging furrows. When watering heavy soils, it will take more time to soak the root layer.

The moisture supply after autumn water-recharging irrigation is sufficient for plants during the spring; the flowering dates of such plants are shifted by 3-5 days, thereby reducing the risk of damage to flowers by spring frosts. In addition, plants that are sufficiently moistened in the fall can more easily tolerate strong winter frosts, dry winds.

It is well known that nothing grows on its own. Cultivated plants care is required, one of the most important measures of which is their moisture supply. Sufficient water is one of the basic requirements of all plants, and it is especially important in summer time. Water dissolves nutrients and microelements contained in the soil and makes them available to plant roots in the form of a soil solution. It is part of plant tissue; many crops consist of 95-97% water. Long absence moisture suppresses growth, provokes diseases and often leads to the death of the plant. Moisture is especially necessary for plants during periods of the most active development of plants: during the period of initial growth, flowering and fruit formation. If at this time the plant experiences a lack of moisture, the yield is significantly reduced, and perennial crops also the next year, since with a lack of water, the flower buds that ensure fruiting next year are poorly formed. Therefore, the lack of natural moisture must be compensated for by regular watering, which is a necessary measure for caring for any type of crop.

There are several long-established watering rules that gardeners try to strictly follow. But is everything really as these rules claim? In particular, it is argued that

1) you should water it not very often, but abundantly. It makes no sense to water a little every day, since the water remains in the surface layer of the soil and the plant roots cannot use it. In addition, water quickly evaporates from the surface, and plants lose it. When watering, the soil should be saturated with moisture 20-25 cm deep, so that saturation with water occurs at the level of deep root layers. In this case, even if the soil surface is dry, the plant roots will be in a moist soil environment and will not suffer from a temporary lack of moisture. However, in a number of floral and ornamental crops root system It is located shallowly, in the upper layer of soil, and surface drying is very dangerous for such plants, since they are not able to take advantage of moisture from deep layers. Therefore, the rate and frequency of watering depends on the type of crop and the depth of the plant’s root system.

2) crops should be watered at the root so that the water directly nourishes the root area of ​​the plant and does not damage its foliage and shoots, since many crops are extremely sensitive to dampness, which provokes the occurrence and development of fungal diseases. Indeed, there is whole line plants that suffer from leaf watering: for example, petunia or tomatoes. Therefore, we can agree with this statement, but with a caveat: there are also moisture-loving plants that, on the contrary, require high humidity both soil and air, and, therefore, they simply need watering on the leaves.

3) the most favorable moment for watering is early in the morning, when the ground has cooled overnight and is moistened with dew, and the air temperature is not high. Evening hours are also suitable for watering, although heated soil and hot air cause unwanted evaporation of moisture. In no case should you water in the sun, especially on hot days, since such watering is not only useless, but can also cause harm to the plants. This is explained by the fact that the resulting contrast between the water temperature and the foliage and root system heated in the sun causes shock in the plant, which can cause inhibition of its development. In addition, droplets of water on the foliage and stems of plants in the sun act like lenses, which can cause burns to plant tissues, damage and drying of leaf blades.

Now let's look at it from the other side. Water is a necessary component for all physiological processes occurring in the plant: photosynthesis, movement of organic compounds, absorption minerals in the form of soil solutions, and also water regulates the temperature of plants by evaporation from the surface of the leaves.

Therefore, the plant needs water most during the day, when the sun is shining brightly and photosynthesis is most intense. Research has been conducted a long time ago and it has been proven that watering during the day helps better growth plants and increased yield. But gardeners have no time to delve into the scientific literature and check the results obtained by scientists. Almost all popular publications recommend methods developed in the post-war era, ignoring the results obtained over the past 3-4 decades.

If we water or even spray the plantings during the day, then by doing this we relieve the plants from loss of turgor and overheating caused by a lack of moisture, and allow the plant to use sunlight most productively (with enough water, photosynthesis occurs very intensively during the daytime). In this case, a large amount of organic substances necessary for plant growth and crop formation are synthesized in the leaves; accordingly, the size and taste of fruits and vegetables and their quantity on the plant increase significantly.

Of course, the individual characteristics of plants should be taken into account (as discussed above), and some of them should be watered at the root, avoiding water getting on the leaves. But depriving plants of moisture during the most productive time of day is simply stupid.

Of course, if you water “by the leaves,” it is recommended to do this no later than 16-17 hours, so that the plants dry out before the evening and the development of diseases is not provoked.

Additionally, there are many factors to consider when watering your plants. The frequency of watering depends on the structure of the soil, its ability to retain moisture, weather conditions and the moisture requirements of specific crops, which can vary greatly. Any type of crop should be watered gradually, in several stages, if possible returning several times to an already watered area. This is necessary so that the moisture can be completely absorbed into the ground, soften it and make it receptive to receiving a new portion of water. It is important not to miss the moment when to water. A dry soil surface does not always signal the need for watering, since the soil in the root zone may be damp and may not require additional moisture.

It is very important not only to supply the soil with moisture, but also to help retain it. The most proven ways to retain moisture in the soil are mulching and loosening the soil after watering. A mulching layer of organic materials retains soil moisture, significantly reduces evaporation from the soil surface and maintains the soil in a loose, moist state for a long time. Loosening also significantly reduces the evaporation of soil moisture, as it destroys the thin capillaries through which water from the lower layers rises to the soil surface and then evaporates. If you loosen the soil after watering, the connection between the lower layers and the surface will be destroyed, and the moisture will remain in the soil until the capillary tubes are restored. Thus, loosening not only enriches the soil with oxygen, facilitating its access, but also helps maintain fairly stable soil moisture.

In conclusion, I want to say that one should not blindly trust existing stereotypes. It is necessary to monitor new scientific and technical developments and apply them in practice, making life easier not only for plants, but also for yourself. As an example, I can cite such a development as drip irrigation, which allows you to maintain the moisture content of the root layer of soil in growing season at the optimal level without strong fluctuations characteristic of all other irrigation methods. In addition, this irrigation method significantly reduces water consumption and has a number of advantages over other irrigation methods.

Read articles about modern systems glaze

Photo: Lada Anoshina, Maxim Minin, Rita Brilliantova

Are you a beginner gardener or do you already have considerable experience? No matter how many years you have been caring for your beds, there will always be some subtleties that were unknown to you, but on which the quality and quantity of the harvest directly depends.

So, no matter what fertilizers you use to enrich the soil of your garden beds, without proper watering of the garden good harvest will not be possible to achieve. Due to lack of moisture, dill, parsley and other greens will quickly wither, carrots, beets and cucumbers will acquire a bitter taste, and the ovary of eggplants and tomatoes will crumble. Excess moisture will cause plant roots to rot and give vegetables a watery taste.

Dill, parsley and other herbs will quickly wither due to lack of moisture.

To avoid such troubles, you can install special automatic or semi-automatic watering heads for your garden, or water your garden yourself using a hose and a garden watering can. Only then should you follow the basic rules of watering.

Video about watering the garden

Watering the garden taking into account all the rules and nuances

First of all, it is worth noting that the water for irrigation must be warm, otherwise the plants will get sick. You can’t water the beds on a hot day - the sun will leave burns on the leaves, and the water will evaporate before it reaches the roots of the plants. After 18 hours, it is advisable to avoid watering tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini and peppers, as this contributes to the occurrence of powdery mildew on vegetable crops. Watering the garden is best done in the morning at 10-11 am (applies to tomatoes, peppers, eggplants) or in the evening from 4 pm to 6 pm (cucumbers, radishes, root vegetables, herbs).

Another important question: how often to water the garden? Watering vegetable plants depends on what phase of growth they are in. Seedlings just planted in open ground, need to be watered daily. And after its rooting, reduce the frequency of watering to once every 3-4 days. To water the garden, you can use water with ash (stir 3 tablespoons in 3 liters of water a day before watering) or an infusion of onion peels (husks from two large bulbs pour 3 liters of water and leave for two days, then strain). It is recommended to alternate medicinal infusions with plain water in this way: watering them 2 times, then 1 time with onion infusion, 2 times with water, 1 time with ash solution, etc.

It will be especially useful to water young plants with a watering can with a shower head, this way you will not wash away the soil or damage tender shoots

The frequency of watering is also determined by what vegetable crops grow in your beds. So, zucchini, pumpkins, and cucumbers are watered once every three days, since their roots are located deep in the ground. Cabbage and tomatoes, which have shallow root systems, need watering once a day or every two days. Fruit trees And berry bushes are tolerant of drought, but young bushes need to be watered in hot weather.

How to properly water a garden with a watering can and hose? The watering can should be raised high enough above the beds so that the water is distributed in a wide fan, and does not flow in one stream. It will be especially useful to water young plants with a watering can with a shower head, this way you will not wash away the soil or damage tender shoots. You can use spray nozzles for the hose, or pinch the stream with your fingers. The main thing is that the water pressure from the hose should not erode the ground and should be moderate. Directing a stream of water from a hose to the roots of plants is more effective than watering the leaves.

How to equip your garden with watering using special sprinklers

Choose the method of watering your garden that suits you best

It is not always convenient to use a watering can and a hose; sometimes there is simply not enough time to thoroughly water all the beds. In this case, a thoughtful garden watering system, represented by the following options:

  • A system of pipes that are dug into the ground and connected to each other by adapters and ball valves. Sprinklers (circular, pendulum, sector and pulse) are attached to the ends of the pipes that go to the surface;
  • Drip irrigation of the garden is one of the most convenient methods automatic systems, which is a hose with holes that are closed by valves. These small valves are opened by the pressure of the water and the water is directed to the roots of the plants.

Video about automatic watering of the garden

These are semi-automatic irrigation systems that require manual turning on and off. Those who are at work from morning to late evening will prefer automatic watering of the garden. It is carried out using systems that have the same device as semi-automatic ones, but are equipped with electronic controls that allow watering to be carried out without your participation. You can set the jet pressure, start and end time of watering, as well as other important parameters. An additional advantage of automatic systems is that the sprinklers immediately “go” into the ground upon completion of work and do not become clogged, unlike conventional semi-automatic systems.

Choose the most suitable method for watering your garden, maintain an optimal level of humidity in the beds, and then by autumn you will reap a rich and tasty harvest!

Hello, dear friends!

In today's article I want to talk about the main rules for watering plants, since this is one of the most important moments correct agricultural technology.

These rules are based on centuries of experience and observations of people who worked on the land, and are confirmed by many scientific studies. So:

  1. It is better to water deeply once than to water little by little several times.
  2. Watering a certain area of ​​planting or an individual plant should be carried out gradually, in several stages, to allow the water to be well absorbed.
  3. If the soil is very dry, then watering must be carried out repeatedly, maintaining intervals of time. To gradually restore the suction capillary system of the soil.
  4. The most favorable time for watering plants - late evening or early morning.
  5. Never water plants in hot sun or during the heat of a dry day.
  6. Water for watering plants should not be cold. For plants, such watering is a real shock. In addition, the root system works to absorb different plants at different temperatures. For example, in a cucumber, at temperatures below 15 degrees, the root system is completely blocked and the absorption process stops. Apart from harm and the possibility of developing diseases, such watering will lead to nothing.
  7. Most the best water Warm, settled rain water is used for irrigation. If there is no rainwater, store water for irrigation in barrels or other containers.
  8. If you do water with a hose, carefully monitor the pressure and dispersion of water. Adjust the jets with your finger so as not to break the top layer of soil and wash away soil and plants.
  9. The best watering for plants is “root watering,” when only the root system is gradually moistened.
  10. If irrigation water gets on the leaves, it leads to the development of various fungal diseases, and in the sun, water droplets are like lenses, and as a result of the sun's rays passing through them, the plant gets burned.
  11. Any gardening enthusiast should delve into the basics of botany and agronomy in order to know the structure and depth of the root system of a particular plant in order to be able to take into account the individual characteristics of the crop and, based on this, calculate the rate and frequency of watering.

The article describes the main rules for watering plants, but do not forget that you need to not only provide the soil with moisture, but also take care to retain it for as long as possible. I'm going to write about this in future articles.

See you later, dear friends!


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