Autumn is a transitional period in the lives of most indoor plants.

The conditions of detention are changing: temperature indicators, daylight hours are becoming shorter, and the beginning of the heating season is just around the corner. Specimens that spent the summer outdoors move to window sills, and some species prepare for winter dormancy.

Accordingly, the plant nutrition regime is adjusted.

By correctly selecting fertilizers and their dosage, we help some plants prepare as best as possible for a long and difficult winter, others for a dormant period, and others for colorful flowering. In this regard, plants can be divided into three groups.

WITHOUT A SPECIFIC REST PERIOD

This group includes mainly tropical species.

These are plants of the families Acanthaceae (pachystachys, beloperone, fittonia, hypoestes), Araliaceae (ivy, fatsia, schefflera), Araceae (anthurium, monstera, aglaonema, syngonium, dieffenbachia, etc.), as well as dracaena, episcia, saintpaulia, phalaenopsis, arrowroot , croton, palm, etc. Plants of this group are fed all year round, only from the beginning of autumn until the end of winter, either gradually reduce the amount of feeding to once a month, or reduce the dosage to half the dose.

It is best to use specialized or complete complex fertilizer with microelements. Araceae, ivy and palm trees can sometimes be pampered with organic matter, but in less concentration.

PLANTS WITH A SPECIFIC REST PERIOD

The second group includes plants that require complete rest in autumn and winter (Achimenes, tuberous begonia, zephyranthes, hippeastrum, gloriosa, gloxinia) - aboveground part at the same time, it dies or is relatively dormant (pelargonium, oleander, myrtle, clerodendrum, bougainvillea, etc.) - the above-ground part is preserved, but the plants require a cool winter.

These species are fed only in the fall phosphorus-potassium fertilizers(for example, potassium monophosphate) to increase their resistance to cold, diseases and other adverse factors during wintering. The last feeding is carried out 1-2 months before the onset of the dormant period.

FEEDING FOR WINTER-FLOWERING HOUSE PLANTS

The third group consists of plants whose flowering period occurs in the autumn-winter period: gerbera, cyclamen, azalea, Decembrist, gardenia, camellia, some orchids and begonias.

For more abundant and long-lasting flowering, these plants are fertilized twice a month from autumn until the end of flowering, again with potassium monophosphate, supplemented by treatment with microelements (“Tsitovit”) and humic substances (“Potassium Humate”).

You can also use specialized fertilizers for each type of plant or complete complex fertilizers with microelements and low nitrogen content.

For a more stable wintering, cacti and most succulents can be fed once in early autumn with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer; nitrogen fertilizers will only harm them at this time.

But Crassulas have a positive attitude towards nitrogen, so these plants can be fed with a complete complex fertilizer until mid-autumn.

Note: Plants that do not require fertilizing

Flower growers are ready to give the best to their green pets. But the main thing is not to overdo it with care, for example, not to exceed the recommended dosage of fertilizers.

And for some groups of plants it is useful to reduce it by 2-3 times, thereby, by the way, saving a little. Take note!

Epiphytic orchids (phalaenopsis, a group of oncidium hybrids, etc.) can be fed at every watering during the growth period, but in a weak concentration. Otherwise, excess salts are deposited in the porous outer layer of the roots and interfere with their full “work.”

INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS

These “guys” are quite capable of feeding themselves, and root dressings in most cases they are harmful. If necessary (for example, it has not been replanted for a long time), you can spray the leaves a couple of times with a very weak solution of fertilizer for decorative leaf species.

When buying specialized fertilizer for cacti, do not forget to pay attention to the expiration date - you will use it for a long time! Most cacti (with the exception of forest species) need to be fed only 2-3 times per season. Excess nutrition leads to stem deformation and weakened flowering.

Valentina Maidurova 12/26/2014 | 1443

With the arrival of autumn, it is time to prepare most indoor flowers for the dormant period. These preliminary works, of course, can take a lot of time, but as a result they will make caring for indoor pets easier in the autumn-winter period.

My indoor flower garden resembles a world map. Here in front of me Europe: cyclamen and hyacinth are plants that are already asking to rest. Near Africa with its medicinal aloe, air-purifying chlorophytum, hardy dracaena and asparagus, beautiful clivia, pelargonium, balsam. On another windowsill Asia: unsurpassed evergreen begonia and primrose are blooming, an aspidistra is hiding in a dark corner, a ficus is pulling shoots towards the light, hanging from a pot climbing rose. America represented by cacti, fuchsia, tradescantia. Noteworthy is also Cordyline from Australia. Plants from hot deserts, humid subtropics and dry tropics need to be prepared for winter conditions our south and mid-latitudes.

For the summer period, some indoor plants were taken out to the balcony, to the garden, where they were in pots or planted in the soil (coleus, pelargonium, begonia, hydrangea and others). With the onset of cold autumn weather, before bringing them into warm rooms, it is necessary to carry out the following preparatory work.

• Transfer the plants to a place protected from rain for 2 weeks to allow the soil ball in the pots to dry out.

• Carefully check the flowers for diseases and pests. In diseased plants, cut off damaged shoots and leaves and treat with one of the anti-disease medications. All medications should be used only according to the recommended dosages indicated on the label or instructions. The best drugs that act on several diseases at once are Bona-forte, Alirin-B, Gamair. Other recommended fungicides can be used.

• Treat all plants for the purpose of prevention and protection from pests (aphids, scale insects, mites, etc.). For treatment, you can use Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Akarin and other chemicals.

• Place pots with dried soil in trays of water for several hours. Earthworms, centipedes, enchytraeus and other uninvited living creatures will leave the pot. After the water has drained, disinfect the soil by watering it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin-M.

• After quarantine, plants with small leaves should be sprinkled with clean water, and those with large leaves should be wiped with a damp cloth to remove dust.

Home flower garden

Placing plants in the house

In the room, set aside all pots of flowers that need winter rest (achimenes, amaryllis, gloxinia, hydrangea, cacti, lemon and others), to the side. Without a dormant period, they will not bloom the next year. Therefore, move them according to the requirements to a dark, warm or cool dry place, accessible for constant monitoring of the wintering progress, and (if necessary) moderate watering. The place for their wintering can be a basement, garage, closed veranda or a balcony, a cold room where in winter the temperature does not rise above +12-16°C.

Some of the plants shed all or part of their leaves in winter. Such plants need to be pruned for the winter. In the spring they will form new young foliage (passionflower, hibiscus). Prepared plants place on window sills, in wall planters, on shelves. In the south or in the zone temperate climate indoor flowers tolerate winter discomfort better when placed in a miniature winter garden or in a relaxation corner. This way they are protected from drafts, temperature changes during ventilation, etc.

In small greenhouses or under glass covers plant cuttings of plants that grew in the summer open ground(primrose, balsam, begonia, pelargonium and others). If desired, they can be transplanted from the roots into pots.

August is the season of active work not only in the garden, but also home flower garden. Flowers grow, develop, and bloom during spring and summer, but by autumn their life processes slow down.

To provide for your pets optimal conditions for winter dormancy, already in August you need to start preparing, carry out work to adapt the flowers to the short daylight hours.

Lighting requirements

A lack of sunlight always has a detrimental effect on the growth and life of any flower. It is worth understanding that almost all indoor flowers come from warm countries, so proper lighting for them is necessary and vital.

In August, it is already necessary to remove devices that act as shade from windows. In my case, these are the blinds that I raise. Those pots that stood in summer time in the back of the room, you need to start moving it closer to the window.

Here you need to take into account one more factor - heat from heating devices and batteries. In the fall, the heating will be turned on in the apartment. Therefore, all indoor flowers should be placed in such a way that they do not receive excessive heat.

I grow violets, so in the autumn-winter period I provide them with additional lighting using a lamp. This allows me to achieve not only winter comfort for flowers, but also active flowering.

See also video:

Indoor temperature requirements

Almost all flowers for winter holidays require optimal temperature indoor air. Flower growers claim that for all flowers in winter time It is better to maintain the temperature around 18-22 degrees.

For flowers such as orchids and azaleas, the air temperature should be reduced to 16-8 degrees. If this regime is not followed, the flower stalks will not develop and there will be no flowering at all.

When choosing indoor plants, it is worth considering that some specimens require a temperature of 6 to 10 degrees in winter. It is better to keep such flowers on insulated balconies.

Watering in autumn-winter

In winter, it is extremely important to provide the plant proper watering. In a dormant state, the plant can get sick or be damaged by pests, and only the right air humidity will allow the flower's immune system to cope with any problems.

Watering during this period is best done only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. In winter, watering should be kept to a minimum, and I do not water flowers such as cacti and succulents at all from December to March.

If you organize proper watering, then the flower will definitely develop the correct buds for flowering and development in the spring.

What fertilizing do flowers need?

The concentration of fertilizers and microelements should be reduced in the autumn-winter period. I buy special fertilizers for the autumn period. I would like to draw the attention of newcomers to the fact that autumn fertilizers should not contain nitrogen, but they should contain more potassium and phosphorus.

For plants that don't bloom, I'm generally in autumn period I don’t use fertilizers, but starting in August, I gradually reduce their amount to a minimum.

How to create optimal humidity for flowers?

Heating devices always dry out the air. Such an effect becomes detrimental to flowers. In this case, I advise you to collect in one place those plants that require high humidity and use artificial humidifiers.

The most basic way is to use water in small containers. It will evaporate as needed and create optimal conditions for flowers.

What to do with the plants that were on the balcony?

You need to be very careful when bringing flowers into the house after summer. Living on the balcony, they can get diseases and mites, which will very quickly spread to all other flowers. In order to prevent massive damage to flowers, I do the following procedures:

1. Carefully wash the pot in which the flower is located. I remove dried leaves from the plant, wash the branches and leaves. The most the best remedy for the shower is a soap solution. It allows you to remove pests and clear dust. It is worth remembering that pests become active in the autumn, so do not a large number of insects will quickly destroy all the plants in the house.

2. Before bringing it into the house, you need to prune the flowers that need it.

3. All indoor plants should be placed in special trays with wet expanded clay to protect the flower from dampness and rotting of the root system.

What diseases can destroy a flower in the autumn-winter period?

Among the most dangerous diseases that cause flower extinction. Root system is rotting. Unfortunately, it is not possible to see this process right away, and when the system is affected, the flower withers and disappears in a short time.

If you responded in time to the appearance of rot on the root system, then the flower can be saved by using fungicides that prevent the development of fungus and various diseases in plants.

During the dormant period, it is important to monitor each flower and remove wilted leaves, as they will be an ideal environment for the development of painful flora or pests.

I hope that my little tips will be useful to everyone who takes care of their green flower garden at home.

Proper care of roses in the fall and preparing them for winter will ensure long flowering in the spring. For a successful winter, the shrub must absorb valuable substances and then go into a dormant state. Roses are prepared for the cold weather in mid-August. If the sprouts turn reddish, it means the plant is not yet ready for frost. On the fifteenth of August, watering is reduced. They stop adding water in September.

Watering and fertilizing

If the weather in the region is hot and dry, you should water the plant in September. Then they stop adding water in October. The rose tolerates wintering better if the soil is dry. When leaving, you need to take this feature into account. Over-wetting the roots is unacceptable, especially in the cold season. In August, nitrogen compounds are not added; potassium-phosphorus compounds are used instead.

Gardeners are interested in how to treat roses in the fall. In September, two feedings are carried out. For the first one take:

• 2 g boric acid;
• 8 g potassium sulfate;
• 20 g superphosphate.

The components are dissolved in 10 liters of water. This amount is calculated for 5 m². At the beginning of October, a composition of 15 g of potassium sulfate dissolved in 10 liters of water is added. In autumn, faded buds are not cut off. If the bush has small buds, you should open them. In order for the rose to survive the winter well, it is necessary to wait until the buds ripen.

The garden crop must form seeds. Autumn feeding roses and preparation for winter should be carried out in compliance with the rules of agricultural technology.

How to prepare flowers for winter

In autumn, the shrub should be dormant. It should be protected from frost and preventative treatments. At the beginning of September they stop loosening the soil. If the soil at this time allows a large amount of air to pass through, the shoots stretch.

Before hilling the plant, it should be treated with a fungicide. It is recommended to apply fertilizers in dry weather. It is important to take precautions. Before applying fungicides, it is necessary to remove leaves located at a height of 40 cm. Copper oxychloride is used to disinfect the bark. The composition ensures the prevention of fungal diseases. If you care for the plant incorrectly, it will be overtaken by powdery mildew.

It is worth hilling up before the onset of frost. The ground can be sprinkled with ash. The rose is hilled to a height of 30 cm. It is better to use a dry mixture. It consists of the following components:

• priming;
• clean sand;
• sawdust.

Sanitary and formative pruning

In autumn, the bush is pruned, the leaves are removed around the twentieth of October. It is recommended to carry out sanitary and formative pruning. If you adjust the crown, garden culture will grow faster.

Sanitary pruning has a number of advantages. Thanks to it, the rose receives moisture longer. The procedure protects against diseases and harmful insects. Improper care in the fall can lead to root rot. The disease is dangerous because it leads to the death of the bush.

Formative pruning - necessary procedure. There are the following types:

1. Short. Leave 3-5 shoots with buds. This type of pruning is not often practiced. The maximum shoot length should be 18 cm.
2. Average. It is suitable for tea and hybrid varieties. Medium pruning is required for the Floribunda variety, as well as remontant species. The size of the shoots should be 40 cm.
3. Long. Shoots are shortened by 20−30%. This type of adjustment is suitable for climbing roses.

Climbing roses are cut back by one third. If the variety is small-flowered, you just need to pinch the growing point.

The peculiarity of the climbing variety is that it blooms on last year’s branches. For this reason, they are adjusted by 30%. It is recommended to shorten perennial branches by 25 cm. Thanks to this, the stems will grow faster. If the shoots are weakened or damaged, it is necessary to cut them off completely.

It is important to follow the rules for caring for roses for the winter; pruning is an integral part of it. Without it, the shrub will not grow well in the spring. When performing pruning, you should consider some nuances:

1. It is worth carrying out the procedure in dry weather.
2. If the bush has a thick stem, you need to correct it with a hacksaw.
3. It is recommended to make cuts at an angle so that moisture will drain away.
4. After pruning, you need to remove the foliage.

Shelter before cold weather sets in

To protect the shrub from frost, you need to make a frame and equip it with covering material. Can buy metal structure or make a frame with your own hands using boards and slats. Polyethylene is used as a covering material. It is durable and provides good ventilation if holes are made. Instead of polyethylene, you can use burlap or agrofibre. The latter allows air to pass through well. Agrofibre is used for more than one season. The following is also used as a covering material:

• dry leaves;
• sawdust;
• spruce branches

They are suitable for low bushes. If you do not make holes in the covering material, the plant will be attacked by rodents or overtaken dangerous diseases. The rose must receive enough air, otherwise the shoots will suffocate. It is necessary to lay covering material on the ground and bend down the branches. The procedure is carried out carefully. The plant should not be injured. Branches can be fixed using metal brackets.

It is necessary to cover the rose before winter; caring for the plant in December, January and February is not required.

Hilling up is a mandatory procedure. Thanks to it, the shrub will withstand wintering better.

How to properly prepare indoor plants for winter period peace? The main indicators that we can influence are lighting, temperature conditions, and watering.

Daylight hours are becoming shorter, day and night temperatures are lower, nature is preparing for the winter seasonal dormancy. At this time, plants accumulate strength for flowering, growth and development in the new season. If you try to artificially maintain active life processes, this will not go unnoticed: many plants refuse to bloom without a dormant period, and some will deteriorate irrevocably appearance, and still others are generally unable to live without a pause.

The first thing to do in the fall, before sending the plants for winter, is to treat them against pests and fungidic diseases with insecticides, acaricides and fungicides, even if there are no visual signs of damage to the plants. Further actions will depend on the type of plant. But the following statement is true for everyone: “Gradually reduce the frequency of watering and stop fertilizing”. To keep things simple, indoor plants can be divided into three main groups. (Table 1)

How to properly water plants in winter?

The question “How often, with what water and in what way should I water indoor plants?” There is no short and clear answer. There are many capricious plants that are very picky about pH, mineral and salt composition and other aspects of water quality, the method of watering, and the amount of water, but these are topics for separate articles. Today we will talk about how to meaningfully water the most common plants without tedious filtration, collecting melt and rain water and other manipulations.

Many chemical compounds (nitrogen oxides, sulfur dioxide, fluorine, chlorine) pose a danger to plants; chlorine compounds occupy one of the first places. Under the influence of chlorine, spots appear on plant leaves white that dry out and crumble. The maximum permissible concentration of chlorine is 0.15–0.20% for plants, while for humans it is 4–5%. If the water in your region is heavily chlorinated, let it sit for at least a day to free it from volatile chlorine compounds. In the Moscow region at the moment the quality tap water high enough and suitable for watering the vast majority of common houseplants.

First of all, two main questions need to be answered.

First: which group does the plant belong to in terms of water needs? (Table 2.1.)

Second: what cycle of seasonal development is the plant in? (Table 2.2)

Why do indoor plants lose their leaves?

Defoliation (leaf fall) is observed only in living plants. The leaves of a cut branch dry out and do not fall off. Natural defoliation is a complex mechanism for preparing a plant for a seasonal dormancy period. Under the influence of ethylene formed in the plant, the processes of formation of organic substances change, the amount of breakdown products of proteins and other compounds transported from sheet plate into the petiole, this causes the cells of the separating layer to separate at the base of the leaf - and the leaf falls off. Thus, the plant, in preparation for slowing down internal processes, reduces the area of ​​nutrition and evaporation, and also gets rid of what has become unnecessary and used up. life cycle material.

Interestingly, in tropical countries, where the temperature does not fall below +20 °C all year round, plants also have a dormant period during the winter months. It is not as deep as plants middle zone Russia, but it is necessary for plants.

Beginners should focus on the turgor of the vegetative mass of a plant to determine “is it time to water?” is not necessary, since wilting or yellowing of the leaves can be a symptom of both drying out and overmoistening of the earthen clod. (Table 3)

What method of watering is optimal?

It is best to place potted plants in the bathtub and water them generously from the shower warm water, let the water drain, then return the pots to their place. In addition to uniformly wetting the earthen clod, this method allows you to regularly clean the leaves and stomata of dust. The fact is that carbon dioxide, necessary for the process of photosynthesis, penetrates into the plant through the stomata, and dust clogs them, which negatively affects the development of the plant.

Occasionally can be used for watering hot shower(+40…+50 C°), this stimulates the plant to grow, but you should not overuse it.

A few important "don'ts":

Do not allow excess water to stagnate in the pan after watering, otherwise you will not avoid root rot, the spread of fungus gnats, weakening of the plant as a whole, and even death.

Do not practice scanty but frequent watering - the earthen lump should be moistened evenly and abundantly; if it is over-dried, it is not wetted; water often simply flows along the perimeter of its abutment to the walls of the pot, without moistening the soil.

Don't water cold water, this is always a big stress for the plant. It will slow down its growth, drop its buds, and during the dormant period, if watered with cold water, it may even die. The water temperature for irrigation should be slightly above room temperature.

Do not water plants with a solution of fertilizers or chemicals over a dry earthen ball, this can lead to burns of the root system and its necrosis; be sure to water well before treatment.

Often annual climate changes are so sudden that it is sometimes difficult to determine the moment at which one season ends and another begins.

The transition from summer to autumn is usually a very difficult phase for a houseplant. During this period, the vital functions of plants are weakened. This applies primarily to perennial flowers. They are preparing for winter rest. And yet the plant is still full of vitality. Many of the leaves have turned yellow and the flowers have faded, but a few warm days are enough and you can see new leaves and new flowers blooming.

This period is quite difficult for any indoor plant, including annuals, which must “spread” seeds, and therefore require careful care and maximum protection. For example, replanting them is completely contraindicated, even if it seems to you that your flower is too cramped in a small pot.

WATERING

During this period of the year, the amount of water required by indoor plants gradually decreases to a minimum. However, when caring for flowers, great care must be taken and provide them only with the amount of water that is necessary, depending on weather conditions. However, most houseplants automatically reduce their water intake in preparation for winter dormancy, so excessive watering becomes harmful both for the root system and for the above-ground part.

FERTILIZER

Starting from the end of September necessary stop feeding most plants, because their growth rate slows down and their nutrient requirements are so reduced that the roots cease to perform their functions. If you still continue to feed them with fertilizers, the depleted soil will gradually begin to accumulate them. As a result, due to their increased concentration, it will become toxic and, instead of being beneficial, can cause serious damage to the roots.

For those types of indoor plants that can continue to be fed, even in reduced doses, slow-release solid fertilizers should be used, especially suitable for such cases, because the nutritional regime in this situation is determined either by temperature or the level of soil moisture.

Most plants at this time of year are preparing to go dormant with very little signs of growth and therefore do not require additional contribution fertilizers But there are a number of few exceptions - these are species that bloom in late autumn and even in winter. They require fertilizing with fertilizers that contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

TEMPERATURE

In the fall, when caring for indoor flowers, it is important to maintain as stable and constant a temperature as possible, gradually lowering it so that the plants acclimatize to colder conditions. Sudden changes in temperature can cause serious harm, especially if the weather changes suddenly, going from warm summer days to freezing cold nights.

A sudden drop in temperature, especially if you have left the soil moist enough, is the main danger to which the plant is exposed at this time of year. Do not forget move indoor plants from the balcony into the room . If a flower on the windowsill suddenly begins to fade, move it to a warmer place; most likely the plant is cold at night from the glass.

FLOWER CARE

Carry on remove any wilted or weakened flowers from those plants that still form them during this period of the year. Houseplants that bloom in late fall or winter need to be fed and watered appropriately.

In addition, it is extremely important to take special care of those flowers that are sensitive to shortening daylight hours, such as the most beautiful poinsettia. For their normal development and the formation of the correct color of the bracts (leaflets from the axils of which the flower grows), it is necessary not only to feed and water them appropriately, but also to provide them with a sufficient amount of sunlight. In September-November, any artificial lighting during the hours when there is sunlight prevents the plants from forming bright bracts.

LEAF CARE

For indoor plants with falling leaves, it is enough to limit pruning wilted leaves as they appear, to avoid their rotting and subsequent damage to plants by certain diseases. For perennial non-flowering plants, care varies depending on the species. Anyway, remove all wilted and damaged leaves. Stop spraying with water. As a rule, almost all indoor plants require a gradual reduction in watering intensity. Only some types of indoor plants, when cared for in the autumn, require watering with greater frequency to maintain leaves.

PESTS

Since the maximum activity of pests occurs in the summer, many of them do not reproduce, and therefore it may seem that the problem itself is losing its relevance. But that's not true. Most insects continue to remain active; moreover, for some of them, autumn is favorable time of the year.

Aphid can cause problems in the first half of autumn, especially if the plant is still blooming. Still, by the end of autumn it will probably disappear until spring, when its activity will resume.

Otherwise it will be the case with spider mite, which must be kept under strict control throughout this period of the year, because it continues to feed on your plants all year round, although with less activity - in accordance with the shortening of the day and the drop in temperature.

Chervetsy also continue to be active, although to a lesser extent than at the height of summer.

The same goes for thrips, which cause serious trouble all winter and can become elusive to control. Warm, dry conditions are optimal for them, and they thrive in the comfortable environment provided by central heating. Little by little, thrips go through different stages of development from eggs to larvae and become less and less catchable. That is why they can be completely destroyed only in the adult stage. It's harder to keep track of them during the fall and winter months because their life cycle spans that long period. Therefore, plants should be treated with a special long-acting insecticide, which will destroy adult insects as soon as they appear. Keeping a close eye on thrips in early fall will reduce the likelihood that they will lay eggs, making these pests easier to control.

In autumn, problems when caring for indoor plants can be caused by whiteflies. These small insects lay eggs on the surface of the soil and hatch into larvae that feed on organic tissue such as dead leaves and roots. These pests cause damage not only in their adult state, when they fly off every time you touch the plant. Their larvae also contribute to the transfer of diseases from infected plants to healthy ones. Therefore, there is a good chance that this will happen in the fall with relatively wet, rot-promoting conditions.

DISEASES

When caring for indoor plants in the fall, be prepared for possible rotting of roots and aerial parts of flowers. Both can easily happen during this period, especially when the plant is at risk of overwatering. If you notice that the roots or aerial parts have rotted, you must immediately apply an appropriate fungicide to prevent the fungus from causing any serious diseases.

It is important to promptly remove any wilted leaf or flower, which is an ideal environment for the development of fungal diseases such as blight, which forms large, fluffy gray-brown spots on stems and leaves ( gray rot). This nasty fungus, having exhausted the available food in the form of dead tissue, quickly multiplies and attacks already healthy plant tissue, especially such sensitive species as Saintpaulia (Uzumbara violet) and cyclamen.

In addition to careful care of indoor plants, it is also useful to apply an appropriate fungicide to prevent the development of the disease at the first symptom, and not wait to treat until the moment the flower is already completely infected and it will be difficult to save it.

It may also be a problem leaf rust- a fungal disease that appears on leaves if they are left wet or in an overly humid atmosphere. In addition, the foliage turns yellow in the fall, and the symptoms of this disease are often difficult to notice.

When caring for a sick houseplant, you must try to improve growing conditions and use all methods to prevent the subsequent manifestation of infection.

August is the season of active work not only in the garden and vegetable garden, but also in the home flower garden. Flowers grow, develop, and bloom during spring and summer, but by autumn their life processes slow down.

To provide your pets with optimal conditions for winter rest, you need to begin preparations already in August and carry out work to adapt the flowers to the short daylight hours.

Lighting requirements

A lack of sunlight always has a detrimental effect on the growth and life of any flower. It is worth understanding that almost all indoor flowers come from warm countries, so proper lighting for them is necessary and vital.

In August, it is already necessary to remove devices that act as shade from windows. In my case, these are the blinds that I raise. Those pots that stood in the back of the room in the summer should begin to be moved closer to the window.

Here you need to take into account one more factor - heat from heating devices and batteries. In the fall, the heating will be turned on in the apartment. Therefore, all indoor flowers should be placed in such a way that they do not receive excessive heat.

I grow violets, so in the autumn-winter period I provide them with additional lighting using a lamp. This allows me to achieve not only winter comfort for flowers, but also active flowering.

See also video:

Indoor temperature requirements

Almost all flowers for winter holidays require optimal indoor air temperature. Flower growers say that for all flowers in winter it is better to maintain the temperature around 18-22 degrees.

For flowers such as orchids and azaleas, the air temperature should be reduced to 16-8 degrees. If this regime is not followed, the flower stalks will not develop and there will be no flowering at all.
When choosing indoor plants, it is worth considering that some specimens require a temperature of 6 to 10 degrees in winter. It is better to keep such flowers on insulated balconies.

Watering in autumn-winter

In winter, it is extremely important to provide the plant with proper watering. In a dormant state, the plant can get sick or be damaged by pests, and only the right air humidity will allow the flower's immune system to cope with any problems.

Watering during this period is best done only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. In winter, watering should be kept to a minimum, and I do not water flowers such as cacti and succulents at all from December to March.

If you organize proper watering, then the flower will definitely develop the correct buds for flowering and development in the spring.

What fertilizing do flowers need?

The concentration of fertilizers and microelements should be reduced in the autumn-winter period. I buy special fertilizers for the autumn period. I would like to draw the attention of beginners to the fact that autumn fertilizers should not contain nitrogen, but they should contain more potassium and phosphorus.
For plants that do not bloom, I do not use fertilizers at all in the autumn, and starting in August, I gradually reduce their amount to a minimum.

How to create optimal humidity for flowers?

Heating devices always dry out the air. Such an effect becomes detrimental to flowers. In this case, I advise you to collect in one place those plants that require high humidity and use artificial humidifiers.

The most basic way is to use water in small containers. It will evaporate as needed and create optimal conditions for flowers.

What to do with the plants that were on the balcony?

You need to be very careful when bringing flowers into the house after summer. Living on the balcony, they can get diseases and mites, which will very quickly spread to all other flowers. In order to prevent massive damage to flowers, I do the following procedures:

1. Carefully wash the pot in which the flower is located. I remove dried leaves from the plant, wash the branches and leaves. The best shower product is soapy water. It allows you to remove pests and clear dust. It is worth remembering that pests become active in the autumn, so a small number of insects will quickly destroy all the plants in the house.

2. Before bringing it into the house, you need to prune the flowers that need it.

3. All indoor plants should be placed in special trays with wet expanded clay to protect the flower from dampness and rotting of the root system.

What diseases can destroy a flower in the autumn-winter period?

Among the most dangerous diseases that cause flower extinction. Root system is rotting. Unfortunately, it is not possible to see this process right away, and when the system is affected, the flower withers and disappears in a short time.

If you responded in time to the appearance of rot on the root system, then the flower can be saved by using fungicides that prevent the development of fungus and various diseases in plants.

During the dormant period, it is important to monitor each flower and remove wilted leaves, as they will be an ideal environment for the development of painful flora or pests.
I hope that my little tips will be useful to everyone who takes care of their green flower garden at home.

Autumn is a transitional period in the life of most indoor plants.

The conditions of detention are changing: temperature indicators, daylight hours are becoming shorter, and the beginning of the heating season is just around the corner. Specimens that spent the summer outdoors move to window sills, and some species prepare for winter dormancy.

Accordingly, the plant nutrition regime is adjusted.

By correctly selecting fertilizers and their dosage, we help some plants prepare as best as possible for a long and difficult winter, others for a dormant period, and others for colorful flowering. In this regard, plants can be divided into three groups.

WITHOUT A SPECIFIC REST PERIOD

This group includes mainly tropical species.

These are plants of the families Acanthaceae (pachystachys, beloperone, fittonia, hypoestes), Araliaceae (ivy, fatsia, schefflera), Araceae (anthurium, monstera, aglaonema, syngonium, dieffenbachia, etc.), as well as dracaena, episcia, saintpaulia, phalaenopsis, arrowroot , croton, palm, etc. Plants in this group are fed all year round, only from the beginning of autumn until the end of winter, either gradually reduce the amount of feeding to once a month, or reduce the dosage to half the dose.

It is best to use a specialized or complete complex fertilizer with microelements. Araceae, ivy and palm trees can sometimes be pampered with organic matter, but in less concentration.

PLANTS WITH A SPECIFIC REST PERIOD

The second group includes plants that require complete rest in autumn and winter (Achimenes, tuberous begonia, zephyranthes, hippeastrum, gloriosa, gloxinia) - the above-ground part dies off, or relative rest (pelargonium, oleander, myrtle, clerodendrum, bougainvillea, etc. ) - the above-ground part is preserved, but the plants require a cool winter.

These species are fed in the fall only with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (for example, potassium monophosphate) to increase their resistance to cold, diseases and other adverse factors during wintering. The last feeding is carried out 1-2 months before the onset of the dormant period.

FEEDING FOR WINTER-FLOWERING HOUSE PLANTS

The third group consists of plants whose flowering period occurs in the autumn-winter period: gerbera, cyclamen, azalea, Decembrist, gardenia, camellia, some orchids and begonias.

For more abundant and long-lasting flowering, these plants are fertilized twice a month from autumn until the end of flowering, again with potassium monophosphate, supplemented by treatment with microelements (“Tsitovit”) and humic substances (“Potassium Humate”).

You can also use specialized fertilizers for each type of plant or complete complex fertilizers with microelements and low nitrogen content.

For a more stable wintering, cacti and most succulents can be fed once in early autumn with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer; nitrogen fertilizers will only harm them at this time.

But Crassulas have a positive attitude towards nitrogen, so these plants can be fed with a complete complex fertilizer until mid-autumn.

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

: The beginning of autumn - what to feed...

: Fertilizers and fertilizers for flowers...

Autumn is a wonderful time, glorified by poets of all times and peoples. Golden foliage, fresh air, hot tea and warm blankets make this time of year especially attractive. However, sudden climate changes adversely affect indoor flowers. Even for those cultures that “live” at home, this period is considered very dangerous. The vital functions of plants are fading, flowers are preparing for winter holidays. Therefore, in autumn, potted crops need special attention.

HOW TO WATER?

During the fall months, your guide will be the weather. So, on sunny days, make sure that the soil does not dry out, but if it is raining outside, skip watering and wait until the soil dries. Many houseplants require less water in the fall, for example, and should only be watered 1-2 times a month at this time.

DO YOU NEED TO CONTINUE FERTILIZING?

The end of September is the time when the bulk of indoor plants stop needing feeding. The reason for this is the slowdown in crop growth. If you do not stop feeding the flower, nutrients will accumulate in the soil, which can lead to damage to the root system and death of the plant.

The exception is plants whose flowering period occurs in autumn or winter. In this case, the flowers are periodically fertilized with long-acting solid compounds. During the flowering period, fertilizers of phosphorus-potassium origin are used.

WHAT TO DO WITH SPRAYING?

In the fall, you should take spraying of potted crops seriously. Unstable temperatures prevailing at this time of year can harm the plant. Spray the flowers with warm water in the morning or afternoon. You should not do this at night - the plant will freeze.

When heating is turned on in homes, the humidity in the room decreases noticeably. Crops such as dracaenas, ivy, etc., need high humidity - they should be sprayed more often - several times a day. You can place the plants on pallets with expanded clay or gravel, thereby improving drainage. Great solution During the heating season there will be a humidifier.

WHAT SHOULD THE LIGHT AND TEMPERATURE CONDITIONS BE IN THE ROOM?

Light lovers (cacti) are best placed on the windowsill. Preference should be given to southern and eastern windows. Here the green wards will have enough sunlight. Less light-loving flowers (ferns, philodendrons) can be placed near a well-lit window on a table or stand. If the plant does not have enough light, its stems will stretch, the leaves will begin to fall, and the variegated color of the flower will change.

As for the temperature regime, it is important to maintain a relatively constant temperature. Gradually reduce the rate so that the flower gets used to cooler conditions. Sudden temperature changes are undesirable, for example, a warm, rainy day followed by a frosty night.

Almost all varieties of flowers feel comfortable in a moderately warm room at a temperature of 15-17 degrees in the autumn.

IS THE TOPIC OF PESTS RELEVANT IN AUTUMN?

The majority of pests are most active in the warm season; in the fall, harmful organisms do not reproduce. The above fact does not at all indicate that the problem is irrelevant. Some pests still remain quite active in the autumn months, so they can cause a lot of trouble.

For example, you may encounter this at the very beginning of autumn, especially if the plant continues to flower. At the end of autumn she will leave the plant alone.

It’s a completely different matter - the one who eats indoor culture throughout the year, even in winter. With the arrival of autumn, the pest's appetite decreases, but you should not let your guard down. The same picture emerges in the case of mealybugs, which continue to be active.

Big troubles can arise, they remain elusive even in the depths of winter. Ideal for harmful organisms warm conditions, which are safely provided by central heating. Thrips grow to adulthood, and the time comes the right time to fight them. The affected plant is treated with a special composition. The beginning of autumn is the time for pest control - the fewer eggs they lay during this period, the easier it will be to eliminate them later.

In the fall, problems can also arise. It is dangerous not only as an adult, but also as a larva - it transmits diseases from one crop to another. Therefore, the probability of such a phenomenon is very high in conditions of sufficient humidity, i.e. in autumn.

WHAT ABOUT DISEASES?

The most common unpleasant phenomenon in the autumn is rotting of the root system and above-ground parts of plants. The topic becomes especially relevant in conditions of excessive watering. If a problem is detected, use an appropriate fungicide immediately to prevent serious disease from developing.

It is also necessary to promptly remove wilted leaves and flowers, since they are the most favorable environment for the spread of fungal diseases, such as gray rot. This type of fungus, after absorbing dead flower tissues, moves on to healthy ones, gradually “killing” the plant.

During the fall months, it is possible that foliar fungus is a type of fungus that spreads on wet leaves in humid environments. Signs of the disease can be easily missed, since in the fall the leaves of many crops already turn yellow.

To save a houseplant, it is necessary to provide favorable conditions for its cultivation and take measures to prevent the further spread of infection.

So that your home plant continues to delight you with its attractive looking in the autumn, spare no effort and time to care for it. Special attention We advise you to pay attention to the watering regime and temperature conditions.

In the autumn-winter season, in our apartments it is dark for plants, like in a cave, plus the air is very dry for them, and the streams of water that they are doused with from time to time do not save the situation, but only aggravate it. Let's try to avoid mistakes.

Lack of light

Light for plants is the same food. Lighting, which is quite comfortable for humans, is often insufficient for them. In nature, they grow either in the forest or in the open. And if tropical forest herbs are usually shade-tolerant, then for plants in open areas (succulents, cacti, most beautifully flowering herbaceous plants and shrubs) the light on the windowsill is ten times less than needed. In autumn and winter the problem worsens.

External manifestations

The stems are elongated, with long internodes. The total number of leaves decreases, they lose their characteristic color (for example, variegated leaves become green). In flowering species, the flowers are small or completely absent.

How to help plants?

We move plants from western and northern windows to eastern and southern ones so that they receive as much natural light as possible (leaves should not touch the glass). We regularly wipe the windows from the inside: clean glass increases the light intensity by 10%. For tropical herbaceous plants (begonias , bromeliads, peperomia, cineraria ) we use artificial lighting. If it is not possible to provide additional light to plants, subtropical ( oleander, laurel, myrtle, hoya , pomegranate , citrus ) we send it to cool storage.

Low air humidity

As soon as it comes heating season, air humidity in rooms with central heating decreases sharply, dropping to 30% and below. For most tropical plants ideal humidity- 70-90% (acceptable - 65-70%).

External manifestations

Young leaves grow small, damaged at the edges. The ends are dry. In many species, leaf fall begins. Buds and flowers dry up and fall off.

How to help plants?

Neither the frequency of watering nor its intensity can increase air humidity. Spraying helps until the plant dries, that is, within 5-10 minutes. Let's find a new place for the plant - on another window or in another room, in the kitchen, where the humidity is higher. Or we’ll just move it to the far edge of the window sill - away from the radiator. If this is inconvenient, we get a humidifier. Or we increase the air humidity by placing flower pots on a tray filled with pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, and adding water to it from time to time. You can place the pot in a larger planter, fill the gap with peat and keep it moist. Another option is decorative bowls, for example, with glass balls, etc., filled with water, which are placed between the plants. The bottoms of containers with flowers should not be immersed in water.

Incorrect or uneven watering

In a hot room, the soil in the pot dries out faster. If the plant is on a cold windowsill, the soil in the pot remains damp for a long time. It is in winter that house flowers can suffer from excessive watering - in the dark season, photosynthesis is reduced, growth is slowed down, and we, struggling with dryness, continue to water them abundantly, as in summer.

External manifestations

A sluggish plant with moist soil in a pot. Avoid irregular watering, when the plant is either dried out or flooded.

How to help plants?

We water the plant only when the top layer of soil looks dry - no matter how much time has passed since the previous watering: one day or two weeks. To do this, we often evaluate the moisture content of the soil by touch. Without doing this, you cannot water! If the soil is too dry (typical of peaty soil), it is better to soak the plant: completely immerse the pot in water and let it sit until the release of air bubbles stops.

Overwinter relatively well in indoor conditions

Aglaonema , aloe , anthurium , aspidistra,

Very soon the golden landscape outside the window will be replaced by dullness and grayness. Deep autumn will come. Indoor flowers in the fall will begin to suffer from lack of light and sudden fluctuation temperature. Our article today is about how to help plants adapt.

Protection from cold in autumn-winter period

— it is better to place flower pots on low stands. And here cold-resistant plants should be placed closer to the glass. Such plants include: geranium, Washingtonia palm, cyclamen.

- You can build frost protection for plants with your own hands. Take bubble wrap or plastic wrap and attach it to the bottom of the frame (at a height of 25-30 cm). Fold the rest of the film under the window sill.

— it is also recommended to raise potted plants standing in close proximity to the balcony.

Attention! To control the temperature, place a thermometer on the windowsill.

How to protect indoor flowers in autumn from lack of light

— for additional lighting, you can attach compact lamps to frames.

— no need to leave the lights on 24 hours a day! Because of this, the physiological rhythm of the plant will be disrupted.

— do not forget about the balance between room temperature and light level. The length of the light period should be 10 – 12 hours.

Remember! Plants during the dormant period do not need feeding! For plants that overwinter in warm conditions with good lighting, fertilizer is applied in ½ part indicated on the label.

How to protect indoor flowers from spider mites in the fall

Dry air from heat sources and low humidity can provoke the appearance of spider mites. This article is written about methods of dealing with it.

We replant plants in the fall using the transshipment method

First of all, you need to prepare a new pot. Oddly enough, most potted plants do well in pots that visually appear small. The plant needs to be replanted when the old pot becomes really small for it.

When replanting plants in the fall, it is advisable to use the transshipment method. It is to injure the plant as little as possible. First of all, the plant is watered abundantly and allowed to stand for some time so that the soil is well saturated with water. Then the old pot with the flower is placed on its side and the flower is carefully removed from there along with the earthen lump. Next, the rotting roots and old drainage are removed. The plant is placed in the center of a new pot with drainage and soil is added around it, holding the green pet at the base.

Choosing a new one cozy house for a plant, please note that all containers are divided into 3 main types:

• pots,
• flowerpot,
• containers.

Pots are most often made of clay and plastic.

Benefits of clay pots:

Porous material allows excess moisture to evaporation;

Impressive weight reduces the possibility of tipping over;

Harmful salts are washed out of the soil in a clay pot;

Traditional color.

Advantages of plastic pots:

The plant requires less frequent watering;

Light weight means greater safety of the plant when dropped;

And the pot is easier to care for, because... no drainage required;

You can choose any color for the pot.

Flowerpots differ from pots by being completely waterproof in the lower part. You can buy a beautiful flowerpot in a store or use a basin, teapot, vase or other utensils. The pot is placed directly in the flowerpot. Its capacity should be at least 2 cm wider. If the plant that will be placed in the flowerpot loves moisture, you can fill the gap between the pot and the flowerpot itself using peat.

A container is essentially the same as a flowerpot with a waterproof bottom, but larger in size. They come in rectangular, round and square shapes. Containers are often used for flower arrangements. In the production of containers they are used various materials. When growing plants in containers, moderate watering is recommended.

Choosing the soil for your plant, you must remember that palm trees and dracaenas love turf soil, and gloxinias, primroses and begonias love leafy soil. Most often you can find nutrient mixtures on sale, including turf soil, perlite, peat, humus, sphagnum, coconut fiber and mineral supplements. Depending on your houseplant's preferences, you can add sand or vermiculite to the mixture.

We replant the plants in the fall in a good mood and get strong and beautiful shoots in the spring!

During the spring and summer gardening chores, many people forget about indoor flowers. But most of them need careful care and transplantation during this period. How do you know that a transplant is necessary and do it correctly?

To make sure that a transplant is necessary, do this. Turn the plant with a pre-moistened soil ball onto left hand, with which you hold this lump from falling out. Hold the pot with your right hand and tap its edges on the edge of the table so that the earth moves away from the walls and the earthen lump comes out of the container freely.

Examine the removed lump carefully. If it is densely intertwined with roots and forms a kind of thick felt on the surface, and also if the soil has become sour, the plant needs to be replanted. It is also necessary to replant if the soil is severely depleted, the plant gives almost no growth, the tips of the leaves and roots have come out of the drainage hole. If, upon examination of the coma and roots, these signs are not found, the container for the plant does not need to be changed; the flower is placed in the same pot.

Do not try to transplant flowers from a small pot into a large one. A container that is too spacious is not at all good for your plant. In such a large vessel, its roots do not have time to absorb all the water that comes in during irrigation, and the earth inevitably turns sour. A pot is considered suitable for planting if the previous container fits freely into it.

Be sure to wash new pots before replanting. hot water and scald with boiling water (but this does not apply to plastic dishes that are only washed). Also pour boiling water over the tubs for large plants. It’s a good idea to soak the pots in a weak solution of superphosphate before planting: this will neutralize the lime contained in the walls of the pots.

Take special care to ensure good drainage. It is required to drain excess water during irrigation. If drainage is not done, gradually all the pores of the earth will be filled with water, all the air will be displaced and the plant will die. For drainage, place shards, fine gravel or crushed stone, or broken red bricks at the bottom of the pot. Then pour a layer of nutritious soil, compact it and place a small mound of soil on top of this layer.

Take a lump out of an old dish and carefully loosen it between the roots with a stick to remove some old land. After this, use a sharp knife to cut off the ends of the long roots around the lump and sprinkle everything with finely crushed charcoal.

In plants that have only thick roots and do not form lobes, such as palm trees, bulbous trees, orchids, the roots must be protected and only damaged and rotten ones must be cut out.

Place the root ball in the pot at such a depth that the root collar is 3 cm below the top edge of the container. Fill the gaps between the lump and the walls of the pot with earth, evenly and carefully pushing it down with the peg. At the same time, hold the plant in the middle of the pot with your left hand. Immediately after transplanting, water the flowers, place them in a cool, dark place for 7-10 days, and while they are taking root, spray them regularly.

Indoor violets- these are those flowers for which frequent changes of “place of residence” are vital. Therefore, if you want these plants to please you for a long time abundant flowering, do not forget to replant them in a timely manner.

When to replant a violet is a question that almost all beginning gardeners ask themselves. Best time for replanting these flowers, as for most others, it is spring. After all, it is in spring that daylight hours increase, temperature fluctuations are minimal, and air humidity is optimal. It would not be amiss to note that these flowers tolerate replanting well in autumn and winter, you just need to create certain conditions for their growth (install special lamps, humidifiers, etc.) and properly care for the plants (water them in a timely manner, avoiding waterlogging soil).

Is it possible to replant a blooming violet?

Yes, you can replant blooming violets, but when replanting, be prepared to tear off all the flowers, otherwise the plant may not take root in the new pot. It is necessary to cut off flower stalks as close to the roots as possible, this will help the plant to use all its energy on the development of new roots, which will subsequently have a positive effect on the splendor and flowering of the violet.

In general, violets should be replanted at least once a year, this will help avoid many diseases of these plants. If you notice that the soil is flower pot covered with a whitish coating, then do not delay replanting, because this is the first sign of soil depletion, and if no measures are taken, the bush will soon become ugly: the leaves will be crushed and the plant will not be able to bloom. Of course, at first you can limit yourself to all kinds of fertilizing, but replanting is still inevitable.

It is believed that violets take root more successfully and grow vigorously after they are transplanted “to the growing moon.” Therefore, if you are going to change the “place of residence” of a plant, then do not plan it on the waning moon or new moon, as the rooting process may slow down significantly, or even not occur at all.