The improvement of a private home is accompanied by the laying of communications that form the basis for the comfort and well-being of the owners. Even a temporary home - a summer cottage - cannot do without a simple sewer system designed to collect wastewater.

Let's try to find out how to install a sewer system in a dacha with your own hands and what standards are fundamental.

As you know, dacha communities and country villages are located far from large populated areas, so owners of garden houses cannot count on centralized service. The way out of this situation is to organize a separate local system for each suburban area separately.

In elite villages, powerful VOCs are often installed that can simultaneously serve several large cottages, but this is rather an exception to general rule. More often, owners of garden plots ranging from 6 to 15 acres make do with more modest budget devices - cesspools or simple septic tanks.

Scheme of the simplest sewerage system in a country house: simple internal wiring (sink + toilet), a straight pipe for household waste, a cesspool with an access road for special equipment

Both can be built from inexpensive building or alternative materials, such as:

• factory-made concrete blanks;
• red or white brick;
• cement mortar (to create a sealed monolithic container);
• car tires.

There is another way, more expensive, but quite effective - installing a ready-made factory container made of modified plastic, equipped with a pipe for connection to a pipe, ventilation and a technical hatch.

It is prohibited to dig a drain hole without creating a sealed tank, as this is contrary to sanitary standards. Sewage, teeming with pathogenic bacteria and chemically aggressive substances, goes directly into the soil and groundwater, polluting it.

Option for installing a country street toilet. The cesspool partially extends beyond the “house”, and a technical hatch for emptying the storage tank is located near the building - this makes it possible to do without a pipeline

Install expensive stations biological treatment it also makes no sense, since the volume of wastewater will most likely be minimal, and the treatment facility will more closely resemble the same storage tank.

So it turns out that the best option is a large cesspool or a septic tank-type structure. On a large plot there may be several cesspools, for example, a peat pit for an outdoor toilet and two storage tanks - at the bathhouse and at the house.

Possible sewer schemes

Depending on the number of residents, albeit temporary ones, the number of plumbing fixtures, the total number of drains, and objects connected to the sewerage system, the schemes can be completely different.

All parts of the system have distinctive features:

• internal wiring;
• simple or branched pipeline;
• type of pit or septic tank.

Let's look at a few of the most popular schemes.

A modern dacha bears little resemblance to a utility room or barn. Owners of even modest suburban plots are trying to build high-quality, reliable, roomy housing, so a two-story building has long ceased to be a rarity. The best option wiring for two floors is shown in the diagram:

The toilet and bathroom are located on the second floor (sometimes this is simply a modernized attic space), and the kitchen is downstairs. Pipes from the plumbing lead to a riser located at the wall closest to the septic tank

In small one-story houses, a toilet + sink set is usually installed. The shower, if present, is located on the street, not far from the garden area.

The wastewater from the toilet enters the inner pipe, then comes out and moves by gravity to the septic tank.

Diagram of the structure of the riser and sleeve for designing the transition of the pipe to the outside. The cross-section of the main line, as well as the riser, must be at least 100 mm, and the pipe fragment in the wall must be wrapped in a sheet of metal and thermal insulation

The cesspool is most often placed near the building, at a distance of 5-10 m. Less than 5 m is not recommended according to sanitary standards; more than 10 m may cause difficulties when laying the pipeline. As is known, to ensure the movement of drains by gravity, approximately 2 cm per 1 m of the main line is required.

Layout of the drainage pit. This is the most popular option among summer residents, which is chosen because of its low cost, simplicity of design and installation method.

Increasingly, instead of a cesspool, a cesspool is being built with an overflow into a filter well. Vacuum cleaners will also have to be called, but much less frequently.

Diagram of a self-made two-chamber septic tank. The filter well receives partially clarified wastewater and continues to purify it, transporting it through a sand and gravel filter into the ground

Common dacha sewerage schemes can be supplemented with branched internal or external wiring, connection of more waste disposal points, a more efficient septic tank, and a filtration field.

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Instructions for building a local system

There is no single plan for installing an autonomous sewer network, however, almost any system consists of three main stages - laying pipes inside the house with the connection of plumbing fixtures, wiring the external pipe and installing a cesspool (septic tank).

There are exceptions - for example, complete absence internal wiring, when all hygiene facilities are located on the street (shower, toilet, washbasin). Let's consider the full option.

Drawing up a project taking into account the standards

Half the success is correct design, which can be done in two ways: independently and with the involvement of specialists.

The first method is good when there are no plans to build serious structures on the site - a septic tank, a swimming pool, a filtration field, filtration well. Suppose you are planning to build an outdoor “birdhouse” toilet, which at the same time serves as a garbage disposal for household waste, and instead of full-fledged sinks for washing hands and dishes, you decide to install a regular washbasin.

To build a toilet on the street, it is enough to dig a hole, equip it with a sealed tank, select the optimal building layout and conclude an agreement on regular waste removal.

The washbasin, like the outdoor shower, can be connected to a plastic storage tank installed on a raised surface, the water in which is heated by solar energy

If you plan to make complex in-house wiring, install a septic tank, lay pipes from the house, bathhouse and summer kitchen, it is better to contact engineers who will draw up a reasonable project based on the layout of the house and the features of the landscape.

In any case, when constructing a drainage pit or septic tank, you must be guided by SanPiN standards, according to which the distances from the waste collection tank to the nearest objects should be as follows:

The interval from the septic tank to the well (well) completely depends on the composition of the soil: for clayey soils - 25-30 m, for sandy and sandy loam soils - at least 50 m

When choosing plumbing and sewerage equipment, we also recommend relying on technical specifications and GOST standards that regulate the use of certain materials.

For example, for laying an external main it is necessary to use only special (smooth and corrugated products made of PVC, PP or HDPE orange color). Fittings must match the pipe material and diameter.

How to make internal wiring?

The internal wiring diagram includes a network of horizontally located pipes, which are connected to plumbing fixtures on one side and to a riser on the other. The riser, in turn, is connected to the main line leading to the storage facility.

It is advisable to lay internal communications during the construction of a house - this makes it easier to arrange holes in the walls and mask some parts of the internal pipeline.

By choosing high-quality polypropylene products and creating a hermetically sealed junction, you can “sew” part of the pipes into the floor, leaving only technical hatches for maintenance

When installing pipes, it is very important to take into account the slope, since in country houses they usually do not use special equipment, and the movement of drain water occurs by gravity. The amount of inclination is selected based on the diameter of the pipes: for large (150 mm in diameter) pipes - about 8 mm/linear meter, for medium (from 100 to 110 mm) - 20 mm/linear meter, for products with a minimum cross-section (50 mm ) – 30 mm/linear m.

Scheme for connecting a sink to a pipe. The optimal diameter of pipes leading to the riser is 50 mm, the diameter of the riser itself is 100 mm or 110 mm

The order in which the pipes are connected and assembled may differ, but usually the riser is installed first, then the pipes are supplied, and at the very end the plumbing fixtures are connected.

If a gas or solid fuel boiler is installed at the dacha and a hot water supply system is functioning, the minimum set of toilet + sink is supplemented with a shower stall or bathtub. Accordingly, the internal branch of the local sewage system for a dacha in this case will be more difficult.

Fully equipped bathroom in wooden country house. When choosing a shower cabin, focus on simpler models that do not require strong pressure and high pressure in pipes

The final point in laying the intra-house wiring is the installation of an adapter in the wall of the house, which is a metal protective sleeve. The ideal solution is to lead the pipe in the foundation of the house into a hole located below the freezing level of the soil.

Rules for laying external pipes

The choice of pipes of appropriate quality is not the only condition for the competent laying of the main line connecting the intra-house network with cesspool or a septic tank. There are rules and regulations that must be followed when burying communications in the ground.

The first rule concerns the depth of the trench: pipes must be laid below the freezing level so that the liquid sewer medium does not freeze and rupture the pipeline with the onset of cold weather. On the other hand, the depth should not be too great, since it is necessary to maintain a slope - at least 2 cm / 1 m of trenches. It turns out that the difference between the depths of the beginning and end of a 10-meter ditch will be 20 cm.

If the pipeline section has a length of more than 10 m, connections or turns, inspection wells must be installed at pipe joints and bends - to monitor and eliminate blockages

To avoid making trenches too deep even in northern regions, pipes are laid at a depth of 50-70 cm, carefully insulating all areas.

The following is used as a heat-insulating material:

• polystyrene foam shell;
• foam boxes;
• basalt fiber;
• mineral wool;
• penoizol;
• foamed polyethylene;
• penofol;
• expanded clay backfill.

In the northern regions, to increase efficiency, materials are combined, for example, pipes are covered with foam insulation and sprinkled with expanded clay on all sides.

There is another heating method - using. However, energy-dependent insulation is optimal for permanent residences. For dachas, where visitors are extremely rare during the cold season, conventional insulation is sufficient. If the pipes do freeze and an ice plug forms, it is recommended to try to break through it with boiled water.

You can read more about the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground in.

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Installation of a cesspool

The procedure and timing of arranging a drainage pit depend on its type. For example, the installation of a factory-made plastic container is carried out in 1 day, and the construction of a concrete monolithic tank, which requires complete hardening of the solution, lasts at least a month.

Digging a pit can be combined with constructing a trench and laying pipes. The hole is dug according to the size of the storage tank, but so that approximately 0.3 m is left on each side for processing and backfilling. The volume is chosen based on the needs of the residents.

One of the options for a cesspool made of concrete rings. Usually for dacha use a tank of 2-3 pieces is sufficient, provided that it is filled to 1/2 or 1/3 of its volume (the wastewater level should not rise above the inlet)

To excavate soil, use construction equipment or shovels with buckets. After clearing the lower part of the pit, the bottom is reinforced with a drainage sand and gravel layer (from 20 to 40 cm thick).

If the tank is light, it is advisable to place it on the bottom concrete slab(or make a concrete screed) and secure the container with anchors, giving it stability. For the same purpose, during backfilling, dry cement is added to the soil so that a reliable waterproof ring is formed around the container.

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Prefabricated structures - made of bricks, rings, cinder blocks - must be covered with two layers of waterproofing on the outside and inside so that the contents of the tank do not fall into the ground and mix with groundwater. Another important condition– installation of a ventilation riser that removes gases to the outside.

After installation and connection of the pit to the pipeline, the hole is backfilled and the neck is formed. The upper hole, which performs technical functions, is covered with a durable lid.

How is a septic tank different from a cesspool?

Many people are interested in how to make an effective sewer system at their dacha so that waste water not only accumulates in a cesspool, but is also partially purified. The only way to make visits to sewer trucks less frequent is to install a septic tank, either factory-made or home-made, instead of a cesspool.

It is worth distinguishing between two types of septic tanks. Some of them actually purify water up to 68–97%, because the purification process occurs under the influence of anaerobic and aerobic bacteria. The lowest degree of purification is represented by systems in which wastewater is processed through sedimentation and the action of anaerobes.

Stages of construction of a septic tank from concrete rings

Installation treatment plant their cylindrical blanks are processed according to a standard pattern. The process is simplified due to the large size of the parts, but for the same reason complexity arises - the mandatory rental of construction equipment and the participation of a team of workers.

To build a septic tank, you will need 2 sets of parts, since it will consist of two tanks. The function of the first is accumulative, the second is filtering.

The construction of a septic tank from concrete rings is carried out in several standard stages:

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Preparing a pit according to the size of the structure

In the place indicated in the project, using a handy tool (shovel), winch or mini-excavator, dig a hole 2-3 rings deep + a neck. To the height of the assembled structure, add 30-40 cm for the foundation: 15-20 cm of sand + 15-20 cm of gravel (crushed stone, river pebbles). The drainage layer serves as a reliable base and filtering “cushion”.

The length of the pit should be such that it can accommodate two tanks connected by a short overflow.

Sandy soil at the pit construction site can cause problems in the form of crumbling walls. If there is no way to strengthen the walls, it is better to dig a wide hole, and after installing and waterproofing the septic tank, fill it with heavier soil containing clay

The soil should not be removed from the site - it will be useful for backfilling. The remains can be used to form landscape objects, for example, flower beds.

Installation of concrete blanks

Concrete rings are mounted one on top of the other, secured at the joints with staples and sealed with special gaskets. Manufacturers have simplified the installation of the lower ring of the storage tank - they have come up with a part with a solid bottom, which does not require additional weight.

One or two more parts are placed on it, covered with an overlap with a hole, a neck is placed on top and a technical hatch with a lid is equipped.

The second chamber is equipped in the same way, but instead of a blind lower part, a regular ring is used. For a filter well, the drainage layer is not enough - it is necessary to make a dense filter with a thickness of at least 50 cm

Now there is no need for any individual calculations. The dimensions of the blanks are standard, and you can always find out from the manufacturer what volume of wastewater the selected combination of elements is designed for.

Waterproofing measures

A concrete septic tank made from individual parts must be covered with waterproofing. In practice, two methods are used: applying protective material on both sides or applying waterproofing on the outside, and only finishing the seams on the inside.

One of the protection options that is suitable for objects buried in the ground. A layer of bitumen waterproofing is applied to porous concrete, after which the walls of the parts become more durable and waterproof

There are modern, deeply penetrating materials that are superior to a layer of bitumen in terms of technical specifications(for example, Penetron), but they are more expensive.

Pipe connection and testing

The fully assembled structure is combined into a single whole and connected to a pipe leading from the house. To do this, holes are made in concrete blanks for an overflow - a short section of pipe, then the same hole - for the entrance of the sewer line. All elements are hermetically connected and covered with waterproofing. The ventilation riser is removed.

To check the functionality and tightness of the structure, the first container is filled with water. Then, when the first wastewater enters the storage tank, a bioactivator can be used to make the waste processing process more efficient.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To better understand the process of organizing a sewer system, we suggest watching useful videos.

Secrets of laying external pipes:

Overview of internal wiring done by yourself:

Important points when building a cesspool:

As you can see, for the device autonomous sewerage At your dacha you need certain engineering knowledge and skills. If in doubt, it is better to seek help from specialists: there are many companies that successfully design and install local sewer systems.

Do you have experience in installing sewerage systems in your country house? Please share some good advice with our readers, tell us what you need to pay attention to when arranging autonomous system– the feedback form is located under the article.

You can feel all the benefits of living in a country house if such housing is equipped with all amenities. Whatever they say, sewerage is the same important aspect comfortable life, like electricity, gas or plumbing.

Development of a sewerage scheme

For the owners of a private house who decide to independently equip a new sewer system, it is best to draw its diagram on paper, maintaining the scale and proportions of the house as much as possible, taking into account the location of the rooms and premises in which it is planned to install equipment connected to the sewer.

The diagram should indicate not only main system objects: toilets, bathtubs, sinks, but also their constituent elements: corners, tees, plugs, revisions, etc. This approach will make it possible to accurately calculate the need for materials.

The first step is to determine the location of the final drainage. A pipeline from the house will be laid to it.

The exit location of the pipeline should be carefully considered, since this exit will have to be arranged through the foundation of the building or under it.

Knowing the exit location of the sewer pipe, you can plan the layout of the pipe network indoors. If the house is small in area, then it is enough one boner, to which branch pipelines from the kitchen, bath and toilet will be connected.

If the house is large and it is difficult to make connections to one riser, then it is worth planning two or even more risers with wastewater discharged to one place or to different places.

Choosing the right place

To determine the location of the sewage drain, you need to be guided not only by the convenience of laying the pipeline, but also by sanitary standards developed specifically for such facilities.

The distance from a residential building to a sewer pit should not be less 5 m, and from the fence no less 1m. An open waste pit is located no closer to sources of drinking water 20 m with clay-type soil and no closer 50 m on sandy soil. It is customary not to place wastewater wells closer to 4 m from the roadway and garden trees, and also closer 30 m from the reservoir.

In addition, care must be taken to ensure that the well for collecting wastewater fits into the landscape as organically as possible. personal plot and did not cause any inconvenience when moving. It should also be conveniently located for access by sewage transport.

Tools and materials for sewer installation

To install a sewage system indoors, you will need to install a riser. The diameter of the pipes for it must be larger than the supply pipelines. Typically, pipes with a diameter of 100 mm or 150 mm are selected.

Supply pipes used for distribution from objects of use are selected with a diameter of 50-70 mm. The number of pipes is calculated depending on the location of the objects and their distance from the riser.

In addition to pipes you will need:

• tees for connecting branches from the main pipe;
• plugs for closing temporarily unused holes in pipes;
• adapters for connecting pipes of different diameters;
• inspections to make it possible to clean the pipe in case of blockages;
• elbows for changing the angle of pipe connection;
• various branches;
• fasteners.

You can get by with a minimal set of hand tools, but you may need a hammer drill, drill or grinder. To work with silicone sealant, it is convenient to use a mounting gun.

The choice of pipes is made taking into account feasibility, cost and technological characteristics. Special attention When choosing pipes, attention is paid to their resistance to deformation, corrosion resistance, ease of installation and maintenance.

The greatest demand currently is for polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene and polyethylene pipes with a socket type connection and a rubber seal.

Such pipes have good hydraulic characteristics, resistance to external loads, durability with good sealing of connections. They are easy to install, experience little wear during use, and are highly resistant to the build-up of deposits in the pipe lumen.

Pipes made of cast iron, steel, ceramics or asbestos cement are now used less and less. Steel and cast iron are reliable, but expensive materials; in addition, installation of sewerage systems from such pipes is more difficult. Ceramics and asbestos cement are fragile, short-lived and difficult to install and maintain.

Sewerage laying

Drawings for manufacturing

Interior work

Work inside the premises should be carried out taking into account the previously developed sewerage scheme. At this stage, it is important to decide on the type of installation of the system: external with open access to pipelines or hidden.

If the type of hidden arrangement is selected finishing materials(plasterboard, lining, plaster), then inspection windows should be provided in the places where inspections are installed.

Places for connecting bathtubs, sinks, toilets and other objects of use are selected in such a way that the pipeline from the object to the riser is located with a constant slope of 7 - 15 mm per linear meter of pipe.

This arrangement will ensure a constant flow of waste with minimal possibility of clogging. It is necessary to arrange the laying of the pipeline taking into account the possibility of its reliable fastening to the wall without sagging.

Pipelines are fixed to the wall with clips or clamps. The attachment points for the fixing fittings are located in close proximity to the pipe joining points and next to the shut-off elements of the system.

The riser at the point where it passes through the foundation is installed vertically and secured to prevent movement during the final sealing of the hole.

All objects are connected at an angle to the main line through bends or tees. The most suitable option would be an angle of 45 or 60 degrees. 90 degree connections are most susceptible to clogging.

If there is no other possibility, in such places it is advisable to connect the system through a tee with a free end plug for possible revision of the joint. To ensure reliability, the joints should be coated with silicone sealant.

Exterior works

External sewerage work involves installing a wastewater receiver and laying a pipeline to it from the riser.

The pit for the wastewater collection tank is equipped manually or mechanized. It is not advisable to install a sewage tank at a distance of more than 15 meters due to the increased cost of materials and deterioration of drainage.

As the distance to the waste pit increases, the angle of inclination of the pipeline decreases accordingly. If this angle is less than 7 mm per linear meter or less than 2 degrees throughout the entire external system, the drainage of household waste will be difficult due to the low speed of their movement.

At the same time, you should not make the angle too steep. In this case, the liquid fraction of the drain will move much faster, and harder particles will settle on the walls, which can lead to clogging. In addition, a large slope of pipes increases wear on their inner surface. External pipelines are always laid with a socket facing the flow of liquid.

The depth of the trench for the external pipeline is determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing. If it is not possible to lower the sewer pipes below this mark, the pipeline should be insulated.

The bottom of the trench should be compacted before its final filling to prevent subsidence of the soil and subsequent sagging of the entire system. Sand bedding should be placed at the bottom of the trench to prevent the possibility of mechanical damage to the pipe during compaction.

Construction of a sewer collector

A sewer collector is a pipeline that includes sewer pipes laid in trenches and, in fact, a collection tank of a certain type.

Biological treatment stations

Most effective method wastewater treatment - biological treatment in special aeration-type stations. The peculiarity of this purification method is that the output can be obtained with water purified by 95–98 percent, with the possibility of using it for watering the site.

Such stations can be installed in the immediate vicinity of a residential building on any type of soil. Stations made of polypropylene are completely sealed and tear-resistant. This material is easily soldered, non-toxic, and the thermal conductivity of walls made of foamed polypropylene is comparable to brickwork.

A biological treatment station is a container consisting of several chambers that perform different functions.

The primary purification of sewage from large fractions occurs in the receiving chamber. Slight oxidation of wastewater by activated sludge also occurs there.

More intense oxidation by sludge after removal of large waste fractions occurs in the main purification chamber - the aeration tank.

The next stage is the separation of working sludge from water in a secondary settling tank.

The fat film in this chamber is separated by a grease trap and transferred to an additional circuit in the aeration tank.

Activated sludge accumulates and settles in a separate chamber - stabilizer.

The principle of operation of the station is to destroy organic pollution of wastewater with activated sludge formed in the aeration tank. In fact, organic matter is destroyed by aerobic bacteria entering the station with air. Excess activated sludge (1 - 2 buckets) is removed as it accumulates and can be used as fertilizer.

The service life of such systems is 50 years. At the same time, purified water is allowed to be discharged into water bodies, which indicates the high environmental safety of such a system. In addition, there is no unpleasant odor, and the biomass retains its properties for up to 3 months without active use of the system.

Cesspools in the sewerage system

The simplest sewage system in a country house that you can do with your own hands is the arrangement of a cesspool.
It can be sealed or with the ability to filter the settled liquid through a natural filter at the bottom of the well.

A sealed cesspool does not allow for soil contamination with wastewater. As the container is filled, human waste is transported to the disposal site by sewerage transport. The volume of such a container is calculated taking into account the planned water consumption and the possibility of frequent pumping out of collected waste.

Sealed cesspools are made either of concrete or ready-made plastic containers of the required volume are used. For example, a sewer system in a country house, made with your own hands from concrete rings, is very good choice. The second option is a sewer system at the dacha made from Eurocubes, which you can also build with your own hands.

If the country house is not used for permanent residence, then you can equip a cesspool with a filter bottom. This is possible in places where the depth of groundwater is below 2.5 m from the surface, with sandy or sandy loam type soil.

Otherwise, domestic waste, filtered in a cesspool, will pollute the aquifer, which can lead to contamination of water sources, reservoirs and, in general, have a negative impact on the ecology of the surrounding areas.

An open cesspool is equipped with concrete rings or bricks. Filtration occurs after settling and clarification of water through the bottom of the well or perforation in the walls of the pit.

To guarantee the reliability of such a system, a capacity of at least 1 cubic meter per family member. Over time, silt and insoluble sediment will settle at the bottom of the pit, resulting in a decrease in the quality and speed of filtration. From time to time the cesspool will have to be cleaned.

Construction of a septic tank

In order for the sewage system to work fully, you can also build a septic tank. Detailed instructions And necessary materials you will find in our.

The choice of sewerage system is a personal matter for the owner country house. But only right choice A system option of one type or another will ensure reliable operation of the cleaning system and a comfortable life.

It is not enough to supply water to the house; after use it needs to be disposed of somewhere. It’s hard to carry it out with buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: the water comes into the house on its own, and then you have to carry it out on your own two feet. You need at least basic sewerage for your home or cottage. The option of simply removing the pipe from the house and draining the water onto the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or hole is almost guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably 110mm PVC), a tee, an outlet, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium-fraction crushed stone, a shovel and several hours of our precious time.
We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from the well or borehole and below them along the groundwater flow. We dig a hole with a diameter larger than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (the diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (deeper is better). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if it is metal, then with a grinder, if it is plastic, then with a wood saw with a fine tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, near the bottom of the barrel. We fill the bottom of the hole with at least 20 cm of crushed stone and place the barrel upside down, oriented the hole for the pipe towards the house.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, bringing it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe; the water flowing through it will warm it up perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we place a tee with a small piece of pipe extending above the surface of the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and allow air to exit the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We insert the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with crushed stone to the full height of the barrel. It is advisable to put some kind of non-rotting material at the bottom of the barrel (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the hole with soil, compacting it thoroughly. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally introducing the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground not far from a buried barrel, you can put a plastic mushroom, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is an exclusively drainage sewer system for the home; it cannot cope with fecal waste, it cannot be cleaned or maintained in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or bathhouse. Drainage wells from a septic tank have the same device.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: depth of soil freezing + height of the barrel + height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2 m + 0.9 m + 0.2 m = 2.3 m). But digging so deep is difficult and not necessary. The effluent also warms the barrel.

If the soil at the site where the sewage system is installed is clayey, and the water leaves the barrel slowly, then the sewage system for your home can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer pipe, or better yet, a drainage pipe. This pipe may discharge water into a drainage ditch at the border of the site, or it may lead nowhere, ending in a dead end. The purpose of this pipe is to drain excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of ​​water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone bed and is also covered with crushed stone and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be damaged by a number of holes in the lower part to improve water flow, making it like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is placed in a drainage ditch.

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1. To be honest, I’m a little surprised that someone’s sewer system can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there...

Reviews (38) on “The simplest drainage system for a summer residence.”

Thank you for the useful article and adequate answers. I’ll start doing it tomorrow. I hope the pipe in our Transbaikalia will not freeze. Of course, I agree with you that a significant inclination needs to be done. By the way, I don’t understand whether the pipe will be enough for 50 or is it necessary for 100?

1. Depends on the distance and characteristics of the problem being solved. It is better to make 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances of up to 5 (five) meters, you can make 50 (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as it is more durable and frost-resistant. This is, after all, an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. What can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up, get greasy, get soapy? Or will it clog up tightly?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or will it be gray (for internal wiring), since it will only be used in the summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) - LDPE - high-density polyethylene. What do you say?
3. My plot has a slope. Along the fence just downhill. I realized that it was better to dig it in.
4. Soil - loam. Where are they usually sent? rainwater from the roof? To another hole?

1. Answers, Vladimir.
   1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loams, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general... If it doesn’t break.
   This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, if the basic installation rules are followed.
   2. It definitely won’t work for “internal wiring.” We need PVC for external sewerage. For internal sewerage, PP is usually used. You won’t dig it up for the winter...
   A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a LDPE pipe (I haven’t heard anything about LDPE pipes until now, maybe I don’t have enough experience). In principle, you can do it if you find it, but problems may arise with connecting pipes to bends (turns) and exiting the house. If you are not a “specialist”, then it is better not to experiment.
   4. Rainwater is usually directed into the drainage system around the house, which discharges it into a drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - “drainage”, corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and geofabric protection.
   In loamy soil, it is necessary to make at least a small irrigation field for house drains (a small drainage system is just for this purpose). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on the go,” then the usual crushed stone sprinkling around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

   Of course, you can introduce rainwater into this sewer system, but... Then there will be a high probability of damage to pipes by autumn and spring waters during “zero crossings”, because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe with ice) of these waters. That's why drainage pipes are made perforated, i.e. “leaky” so that the water can drain away on its own. And if you install drainage pipes instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt and get dirty”) and will not work. This is not to mention the possible unpleasant odors along the entire 20 meters of the pipe. So it is better to have separate sewerage and separate rainwater drainage.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60-cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I'll just poke holes in the side of the frame and then proceed with external wiring. Accordingly, I don’t want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go on the ground.
How to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 external wall Houses? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

1. I didn’t quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house you use fifty dollars for the interior, i.e. PP pipe. You let it out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “seal” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then move on to the 110th PVC, and you are driving it. From the exit of the log house to the 110th PVC you can use the same fifty dollars, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say, without imagining the possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And the 110th went.
   In principle, it is permissible to install a fifty-kopeck piece on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is advisable that it is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and you need to fasten it well and carefully, making gaps on thermal expansion. Fifty dollars of PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you'll have to look for it.
   AND general advice, just in case you are a fireman, avoid right angles. If necessary, make them prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, with inserts between them. Right angles get clogged well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you understood everything correctly. It’s just that not a single salesperson in stores (I visited about five) has come across PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of pipe 110, I need to walk about five fifty meters along the wall (from below there is an entrance to the garage). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were previously laid in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing on the drain tanks suspended overhead

1. No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely polyethylene low pressure, the dye was just different. Look in specialized stores, at construction bases, where they sell professional 4- and 6-meter sewer pipes, without sockets. I'll tell you how to connect them, it's not difficult. There are tips for everything on the Internet. Look in the store at the address: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, “All Instruments” store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. As a last resort, you can install internal 50 mm PP pipes, you just need to watch them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I'll definitely check their website.
Just a passing question: will I finally find fifty dollars of PVC pipe. But all sorts of turns and other things also need PVC? This is probably completely unrealistic. I'll look on the Internet and on their website.
Thank you again for your attention.

1. Hello again, Vladimir.
   I ask your forgiveness. Having “scoured” the Internet in search of fifty dollars worth of PVC, I actually discovered that these pipes are only available in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, buy fifty dollars of PP, just look not for the standard cheap 1.8 mm PP, but for 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, fifty rubles of PP are installed in non-critical sections of the sewer system, without thinking about the consequences. You will just have to keep an eye on this area, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the dacha season.
   The PVC I found in Ufa is unlikely to be suitable; they are for protecting electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer(!) is a mystery to me. So make fifty dollars of PP from the house to the fence. This is not possible, but if you really need it, then...

Thank you for this article for the advice. I just had a situation where I bought myself a multistage pump. A plumber arrived and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork and there was no problem. When I was tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. But if I had a water drain, this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.

To make life at the dacha comfortable, it is necessary to carry out basic communications - water supply and sewerage. Often absent in suburban areas centralized network sewerage, so each house owner solves the problem independently. Periodic use of the home does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment; it is enough to install a septic tank.

Often in dachas, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped with a plumbing system, this option is completely justified, but when installing plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer system in your country house with your own hands. different ways(from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping), and we will also demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photos and video instructions.

The sewerage system must be built in accordance with the developed project, which includes external and internal piping diagrams.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient option is to install a collector consisting of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

1. Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country house. You can dig a pit manually or using an excavator.
2. A sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed at the bottom of the pit. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
3. It is necessary to install formwork made of boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
4. It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe cuttings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer main and the overflow pipe between the sections.
5. The formwork is filled with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume using a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at one time.
6. In the first compartment, the bottom is filled with concrete, a sealed section is formed, which will serve as a sump. Here the wastewater will be separated into large solid fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that flows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
7. The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter the wastewater.
8. An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an angle of 30 mm per linear meter. The height of the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made, which provides better cleaning.
9. The ceiling of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made ones are used reinforced concrete slabs. Be sure to install a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and the hood. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump tank of such a system will be cleaned every 2–3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil on the site is clayey or the groundwater is located very close to the surface, it will not be possible to install a septic tank of this design. You can settle on a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and secured to a concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment station. Local stations convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for large suburban buildings. The installation and commissioning of the device is carried out by specialists; the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

Laying the external main

It is necessary to lay a pipeline from the point where the sewer pipe exits the house to the septic tank. The main must lie at a slope that ensures the drainage of contaminated water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes must be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the depth of the trench is small, provide thermal insulation of the line.

The average depth for laying a sewer system is 1 meter; in warm regions it is enough to go down to 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If it is necessary to make a turn, this place will be equipped with an inspection well. For the main line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm; their connection must be airtight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of wastewater, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. These can be two/three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in volume. In two-chamber septic tanks, the septic tank occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber septic tanks ½. Here, preliminary wastewater treatment takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final wastewater treatment takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. In this way, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps avoid systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in addition to organic matter, wastewater also contains insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a structure will also have to be pumped out periodically to get rid of the sediment accumulating in the sump. This can be done with a fecal/drainage pump. The frequency of septic tank maintenance depends entirely on the size/volume/composition of wastewater.

To independently construct such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The water consumption rate per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of household members, you get daily norm water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m, and a width of 2 m. By multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. The minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe is 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually this sediment becomes denser and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be cleaned immediately. You should resort to cleaning a septic tank quite rarely. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge in 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewer equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological products with special enzymes appeared that convert sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment facility.

Bacteria need to be “fed” with oxygen to make their work more efficient. You can buy containers for a septic tank or make your own.

Before installing the finished septic tank structure, it is necessary to determine a suitable location for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house must be directed directly to the septic tank. It is better to avoid turning the pipeline, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab/screed. The dimensions of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water will flood the device’s equipment in the spring.

After constructing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done using cables placed in the ribs of the septic tank. In this matter you cannot do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to the communications, having previously dug trenches for the pipes, laid a sand cushion and installed the pipes. They should be laid at a slight slope - 1–2 cm per linear meter. The pipes are laid to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After this, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem you will need a polypropylene cord and a hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, you can insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the panel to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. There are special holes with marks on the septic tank. The cable is connected to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your region is high enough, then insulate the septic tank. Any type of insulation can be used thermal insulation material, which can be used for laying in the ground.

After connecting the electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be filled with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure during the process of filling the soil, you need to pour water into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the level of backfilling of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with a ready-made plastic autonomous system for wastewater treatment, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for realizing your plans is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

• Affordable price.
• Unpretentiousness during operation.
• Possibility of performing work without the help of specialists.

The following disadvantages deserve attention:

1. The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure completely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
2. The need to clean the chambers of solid waste using sewage disposal equipment.

You can reduce the frequency of the need to pump out the septic tank if you use bioactivators. They reduce the amount of solid fractions by accelerating the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is not carried out correctly, the septic tank will be leaky, which will increase the risk of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be sealed, so this disadvantage of the system is rightly called conditional.

The design of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1–2 chambers designed for settling and purifying wastewater and a filtration field/filter well.

If there are few people living in your house and a minimum of plumbing fixtures are connected to the sewer system, then you can easily get by with a septic tank consisting of one septic tank and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have a lot of household members and many devices are connected to the sewer system, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must accommodate a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that to build a septic tank for 5 people you will need a septic tank of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that to install a septic tank in this particular case you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate septic tank chambers and a filter well. This work, of course, can be done manually, but it takes a long time and is very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earth-moving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the site where the settling chambers are installed must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. Before starting concrete work, part of the bottom of the pit should be drained to install settling tanks by laying a sand cushion on it in a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a solid bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires preparation of the base. Under it you need to make a cushion of sand, crushed stone and gravel at least 50 cm thick.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. Performing these tasks manually is very difficult. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is labor-intensive. And the bottom will have to be filled after installing the last ring, which will entail whole line inconvenience. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Usually the rings are fastened together with mortar, but for greater structural reliability they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not be damaged due to soil movement.

Now it’s time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to connect pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they need to be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. The outside of the tanks must be treated with coating or weld-on waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders that are installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water entering will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings/backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, which have holes for installing sewer hatches. Ideally, backfilling of the pit should be done with soil containing a high percentage of sand. But if this is not possible, the pit can be filled with soil previously removed from it.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The system for treating wastewater from barrels, like a similar structure made of reinforced concrete, can be two- or three-chamber. Sewage will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The operating principle of this device is similar to the design made of reinforced concrete rings.

To set up an autonomous sewerage system based on the principle of a treatment system, you can use any containers. These could be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have a number of advantages over their metal counterparts:

1. A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
2. The barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of wastewater. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
3. The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at a permanent location.
4. Plastic does not require additional processing, unlike metal.
5. The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of penetration dirty waters into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fastened when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are secured with cables to a concrete base (it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab must be installed). To avoid crushing plastic barrels, backfilling of soil should be done extremely carefully.

For seasonal use Sewage from metal barrels will also work, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for sewerage installations is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a lid, you can use an appropriately sized piece of wood or one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig a corresponding pit, which also needs to be concreted - the walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, installing them as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. And such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

To install a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory-made polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 liter barrels, you will need the following materials:

• geotextiles – 80 m2;
• sewer pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
• crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m3;
• corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º – 4 pcs.;
• plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l – 2 pcs.;
• coupling, flange – 2 pcs.;
• wooden peg – 10 pcs.;
• Y-shaped sewer tee – 4 pcs.;
• building level;
• drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m – 2 pcs.;
• epoxy two-component sealant – 1 pc.;
• glue for PVC – 1 pc.;
• plumbing tape – 1 pc.

Tools you will need:

• Shovel.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.

For a dacha/small country house, if used sparingly, standard plastic barrels are suitable. Installing such a cleaning system is not difficult. If you do not pour black waste into the sewer, the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If there is a toilet in the house, then the sewerage system will have to be cleaned regularly by calling a sewer service.

For private houses permanent residence there won't be enough barrels. For sewerage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes/tanks/tanks. The process of installing them in the ground is no different from installing barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewerage system to the house:

• there is a need for a large depth of the pipeline;
• On the way to the septic tank you will need to install an inspection well.

A sewerage system made from metal barrels does not require large financial investments or complex installation work. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed to transfer liquid from one barrel to another and transfer to the filtration fields/drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated using polystyrene foam. After this, the pit and septic tank are filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels do not last long, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Pipe laying

Scheme

Living in isolation from the benefits of civilization has its own charm, but it imposes additional troubles on arranging your life. And one of the main and priority tasks is to arrange a sewer system in the country with your own hands.

Country sewerage becomes an integral part of comfortable living. In this article we will consider all the aspects of arranging a country sewer system, how you can lay it yourself with minimal time and financial costs.

Options for installing a country sewer system with your own hands

Sewage systems for a private home have different purposes:

• drainage – for collecting and removing excess water from the site;
• storm drains - for draining water from natural precipitation, including melted snow;
• fecal – for the disposal of wastewater generated by human waste products.

Each of the listed types of wastewater, in its own way, prevents the emergence of various problems and is characterized by independent functioning.

Drainage collectors reduce the possibility of waterlogging and waterlogging of the soil on the site. Moisture is collected by perforated drainage pipes and, through a system of sewer pipes and wells, removed beyond its boundaries.

Storm drainage systems begin with the installation of a drainage system on a country house, trays and storm water inlets, as well as a sewer water supply system.

Rain and melt water can simply be discharged outside the site, but is often discharged into a special container, where it undergoes simple purification by settling and filtration. After this, it becomes suitable for use for economic purposes.

Fecal wastewater is transported through special pipelines to treatment systems or storage tanks, from which it is necessary to periodically pump them out.

Fecal water purification is carried out using biological and by chemical means, as well as settling and filtration. Its goal is not complete disinfection of wastewater, but only primary processing to a safe state.

In this form, it is drained onto the ground, and further purification occurs by filtration when seeping into deeper aquifers.

To purify contaminated water, you will have to incur considerable costs, but you still need to do this in order to drink clean water yourself without fear of undesirable consequences.

Regulatory requirements for the installation of fecal sewerage in a country house

Before proceeding with the installation of sewerage on summer cottage, it is necessary to draw up a detailed design of this structure. When developing it, a number of requirements set out in various regulatory documents are taken into account.

Just knowing all these rules is not enough; you need to be able to use them correctly. Therefore, it will be very difficult for a non-specialist to develop a sewerage scheme for a dacha with his own hands; it is better to invite a professional designer.

The construction of such a facility is possible only with the permission of the local sanitary and epidemiological station, so the project must take into account the requirements of SNiP and comply with sanitary standards.

The main document regulating the construction of even a simple cesspool is SanPiN 42.128.4690-8. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the requirements set out in SNiP 30-02-97.

All requirements can be reduced to the following list:

1. The storage tank for household waste must be located on the territory in close proximity to the house.
2. The distance from the nearest water supply should not be less than 10 meters, to the water intake device (well or borehole) - at least 20. This requirement must be strictly observed.
3. The construction of storage cesspools is allowed at a distance of at least 10 meters from one’s own and neighboring residential buildings. But this indicator is ambiguous - some documents allow a distance of 5 meters.
4. The distance to the border of the neighboring plot is at least 3 meters.
5. The depth of the cesspool should be no more than 3 meters, provided that the nearest aquifer is at least a meter from the bottom of the pit.

In addition to the requirements for the location of the pit in relation to other objects on the site, there are instructions for the design of the septic tank or cesspool:

• the structure must have a hermetically sealed cesspool located above ground level;
• It is not allowed to fill the pit above a level of 35 centimeters to the top edge;
• the cesspool must be pumped out at least 2 times a year;
• When cleaning, the cesspool container is thoroughly cleaned and disinfected.

Used for disinfection special means, purposefully produced by industry.

Septic tank design rules

Country sewerage is a serious object and its design requires an appropriate approach.

Watch the video

Below we will analyze all the stages of independent arrangement.

Selecting a location

The relative position of various objects in relation to the drive has already been described above. This device must be located at the lowest point of the site, observing the distance requirement.

In addition, the septic tank must be located below the well or well to prevent wastewater from flowing to the water intake.

As for the distance from the drive to a residential building, it is better to install it 10 meters away. In some documents it is defined as a minimum at this distance - no one knows which document the inspector will refer to when wanting to replenish the state treasury or his own budget.

Installation of internal sewer network

The design of a system for removing household discharges should be carried out simultaneously with the development of drawings of a residential building. This allows you to optimize the location technical premises and it is most rational to combine them with various communications.

Watch the video

As for the sewage system in the country, it is located in such a way that the center line of the drain is located in a straight line. When developing a project for a two-story building, the drainage system is arranged in parallel and converges on one riser. It, in turn, combines drains from different floors and brings them out through a hole in the foundation.

Starting from this place, the sewer network must be insulated, although the pipe is initially located below the freezing level of the soil. This is done in case of extreme weather conditions.

Insulation is carried out with a special casing made of polystyrene foam. Heating cables are also used, mainly intended for defrosting frozen pipelines.

The riser is positioned strictly vertically, its upward extension continues until it exits the roof. The upper end is equipped with a cap to protect against precipitation.

To service the system, inspections are installed in several places of the drain water supply.

Installation of an external sewage system at the dacha

The main purpose of creating an external sewer system is to disinfect domestic and commercial wastewater. Ultimately, every conscious owner suburban area achieves safe conditions residence.

In any sewer system, a mandatory element is a device called a septic tank. Its purpose is to accumulate waste, and in more advanced products – to process it more deeply.

Watch the video

The simplest storage tank can be installed in country houses with a wastewater volume of no more than 1 cubic meter per day. In this case, it is possible to comply with the SanPiN requirement for cleaning such devices. at least once every six months.

Filter wells

This is the simplest device for primary wastewater treatment. It is installed directly behind the septic tank and connected sewer pipe. The depth of the well can be 2.5 - 3.0 meters. In this case, the distance from the bottom to the upper aquifer must be at least a meter.

Watch the video

When deciding on the design of a sewer system in a dacha and the type of storage tank for it, it is necessary to make a decision on the site exploratory drilling to determine its location. In addition, such an operation will reliably determine the nature of the soil on the site.

Using a filter well on clay soils with low water permeability is generally impossible. The most likely scenario is that all the impurities will remain with you.

The filter well is made of reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of up to two meters. It is closed on top with the same lid with a hole for maintenance. The option of making a well with brickwork is also popular.

The filtering part is carried out by backfilling with coarse river sand and gravel of a fraction of 5-15 millimeters. Many sources recommend using blast furnace slag to form the bottom of the filter, and pouring a layer of broken bricks, which have a high degree of absorption, on top of the gravel.

In a septic tank for such sewerage, the primary sedimentation of solid components of wastewater and the biological processing of its contents by aerobic bacteria without air access are carried out. Cassettes with cultures of such biological cultures can be purchased at construction markets.

In the design of a sewer system in a country house, direct pumping is also necessary. But the need for it arises much less frequently - once every 2-3 years.

Effluent aeration

For better wastewater treatment, a post-treatment method is used, such as blowing wastewater with air. For this purpose, low-power compressors specially produced by industry are used.

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The essence of aeration lies in two main processes occurring in wastewater:

1. Under the influence of atmospheric oxygen, active oxidation of many chemical elements contained in water. In this case, insoluble sediments are formed and settle to the bottom.
2. The presence of an increased amount of oxygen in wastewater promotes the active development of anaerobic bacteria, which also contribute to the decomposition of polluting components.

Thus, the introduction of aeration into the wastewater treatment process significantly increases the degree of their purification, bringing it to 90%.

As a result, the cleaning process looks like this:

1. In the septic tank, wastewater is separated into solid and more liquid fractions, which are processed with biologically active substances.
2. Aeration, during which wastewater is saturated with oxygen, deepens the degree of biological processing
3. Additional treatment of wastewater with chemicals significantly more effectively purifies water from contaminants.

Using a combined wastewater treatment method has a number of advantages:

• the use of such devices for purifying water from sewerage in a dacha is possible at any groundwater level;
• There are no unpleasant odors during operation;
• high quality of wastewater treatment predetermines the creation of a favorable environmental situation in the place of residence;
• a simple installation process allows you to create such a cleaning system in a short time with your own hands;
• the operation of such a system requires virtually no intervention, with the exception of periodic inspection and maintenance to replace cartridges with bacterial cultures;
• the high quality of wastewater treatment means there is no need for frequent pumping; depending on operating conditions, it can be carried out once every 5-10 years.

If we talk about shortcomings, then the increased cost of equipment attracts attention. However, this is not the case when you can sacrifice your health in order to save money. In addition, for the uninterrupted operation of such equipment for local sewage in a country house, a constant consumption of electricity is required.

How to lay external sewer pipes in your country house yourself

The outer part of the drainage system consists of various equipment connected by pipes. You need to understand that the sewage system in the country is a non-pressure system.

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Previously, the main materials for it were cast iron pipes, which are now being replaced by polyethylene pipes. When laying an external pipeline, you can use socketed products with a diameter of 80-100 millimeters.

When making connections between individual components of the wastewater treatment system,. With a larger value, water will drain faster than solid fractions of contaminants, as a result of which some of them do not drain, creating a blockage.

Self-installation of septic tanks of various types - from concrete rings, brickwork, from barrels and installation of finished plastic products

Storage devices can be made of various materials:

1. Concrete rings, in this case the lower ring is taken with the bottom, the upper one with the hole for the lid. If you are interested in more detailed information about . When selecting rings, you need to pay attention to the way they are connected - there must be centering holes. The tightness of the connection is ensured by seating on cement mortar.

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1. Septic tanks made of brickwork for sewerage in the country, used in the construction of multi-chamber structures. To do this, you need to arrange a drainage layer of sand and gravel mixture up to 15 centimeters thick, then a concrete screed up to 30 centimeters thick, then complete brickwork red solid brick.

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To seal the masonry, it must be treated with bitumen mastic and covered with roofing felt. Accordingly, the size of the pit should make it possible to carry out these works.

1. Plastic ready-made septic tanks the most practical and easy to install. But there is one feature - the container is not heavy. If in the spring it turns out to be incomplete, it may float up when the groundwater level rises.

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Therefore, it is practiced to install it on an anchored concrete slab of sufficient weight to hold the floating container. The size of the slab largely determines the size of the pit.

In addition to the listed materials, others can be used, sometimes the most unexpected ones, which are classified as improvised. These can be car tires or large-diameter pipe scraps, both plastic and metal.

How to waterproof a septic tank yourself

The storage tank that receives waste water from the house sewer in the country must be sealed. Otherwise, the costs incurred will turn out to be ineffective - what needed to be isolated and processed through the soil asks for the water carrier and returns from the well or well.

First of all, it is necessary to seal the outer surface of the septic tank. For this, bitumen mastic and roofing felt are used and work is carried out in the following order:

• a primer layer is applied to the surface of concrete or brick.
• The roofing material is glued with mastic in rings from bottom to top.
• The joint between the housing and the drain pipe is sealed.

1. The prepared clay must be soaked in water one day before use.
2. Mix the clay solution. Stir until the consistency of thick sour cream. It is necessary to add reinforcing additives in the form of fiber shavings to the solution.
3. Use the resulting mass to fill the gap between the wall of the septic tank and the soil of the pit. When laying, tamp the mass of the solution with a stirrer.
4. After pouring the solution, the surface must be covered with film. To avoid cracking of the mass, the surface must be moistened with water daily.

The drying time of the sealing seal is less than 7 days.

Of course, for plastic molded containers such an operation is not necessary.

How to connect internal and external sewerage yourself and test

After completing the installation of the internal and external sewerage networks at the dacha, the most important moment is the moment of connecting these two wirings. The main attention should be paid to maintaining the angle of inclination.

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Its value depends on the diameter of the water pipe. In country wiring, a pipe of 80-100 millimeters is usually used, for which a slope of 2-3 millimeters per meter of pipeline is optimal.

Having placed the pipe in this position on a sandy base, it must also be filled with sand with careful compaction.

The connection of electrical power and control systems should be entrusted to an experienced specialist - an adjuster from the equipment manufacturer. Otherwise warranty obligations supplier will be invalid. Upon completion, he must make a corresponding note on the warranty card.

The difference between a septic tank and a cesspool

Like any long-term system, the sewage system in the country is constantly being improved. A cesspool, the simplest structure for the disposal of household waste, requires regular pumping of the contents, which in itself requires additional costs. Besides, this is not such a pleasant procedure.

For this reason, the idea of ​​constructing a filter well arose and was implemented. The time and money spent on maintaining such a system have been significantly reduced.

And the introduction of aeration, biological and chemical treatment into wastewater treatment technology ultimately led to the creation of a sewage system in the country that operates without pumping, which significantly increased the comfort of living and quality of life in suburban conditions.

A septic tank is a localized facility for treating wastewater from biological and chemical contaminants. Most of these devices require an insulated container with simple equipment to operate. The result is water that is clean enough to simply pour onto the ground.

A dry toilet is a compact device for processing only fecal waste using sawdust, peat or other similar fillers.

As a result of natural processing, the output is ordinary compost, used in country gardening. But for comfortable use of a dry closet, you need high-quality exhaust from the room where it is installed. Otherwise the atmosphere will be somewhat spoiled.

It is good to use a dry toilet for a temporary solution to problems with waste disposal. A fundamental solution to sewerage in a country house is achievable only with the use of a modern septic tank.

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