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Types of spraying agents

Preparations for treating apple trees are divided into:

• biological;
• chemical;
• complex.

Biological

The creation of biological agents is based on viruses and bacteria that can destroy insect pests and pathogens of fungal diseases. Their validity period is gradual and is 14 days. Such preparations are used to treat apple trees during the period when the ovaries appear after flowering (late May).

Biological agents include:

• trichodermin;
• planriz;
• pentaphage-C;
• bitoxybacillin;
• actophyte;
• lepidocid.

Bitoxibacillin, 80 rub. Trichodermin, 350 rub. Planariz, 209 rub. Aktofit, 314 rub. Lepidocide, 180 rub.

Pentafag-S, 103 rub.

Chemical The most effective drugs in the fight against various pests and fungal diseases are chemicals

.

• They pose some danger to human health. When using them, you must strictly observe the necessary safety measures and the exact dosage of the drug. Substances disintegrate within 21 days; this must be taken into account when choosing the timing of their use.
• The following types of chemicals are used:
• urea (carbamide);
• copper sulfate;
• inkstone;

Speed;

Bi-58.

Carbamite, 152 rub. Fast, 98 rub. Bi-58, 420 rub.

Complex

The main characteristic of systemic (complex) preparations is that they are able to penetrate into the tissues of the tree. Thus, the substances poison insects that eat the bark and foliage of the apple tree, as well as the larvae and eggs that they lay. These drugs retain their damaging properties for 15 days, then they break down into components that are harmless to the apple tree and its fruits.

Processing apple trees in phases

When choosing a product for spraying an apple tree against diseases and pests, you should take into account its growth phase.

In industrial cultivation, trees must be processed 11 times during the season. This number of sprayings is due to the fact that the apple tree is affected a large number of all kinds of pests and diseases.

The complete spraying scheme looks like this:

• during the period of dormant buds - the first ten days of March;
• before and during bud break - late March or early April;
• before flowering;
• after flowering;
• when ovaries appear;
• after harvest, in autumn.

If you maintain the garden in good condition and want to reduce the number of sprayings, you can carry out treatment only in the second, fourth and fifth stages.

The process of spraying garden trees is shown in the video from the channel In the Garden or in the Vegetable Garden.

Before the buds open

The first time a tree should be treated with complex means to simultaneously prevent pests and diseases such as:

• spider mite;
• various types of moths;
• leaf flea beetles;
• scale insects;
• coccomycosis;
• moniliosis;
• bacterial burn;
• scab.

A good effect is observed after spraying with two complex products Garth (30 g) and Capture Oil (180 ml), diluted in 10 liters of water. The first drug destroys fungal diseases, and the second - pests.

TO traditional methods control of diseases and pests includes spraying the trunk and branches of a tree with Bordeaux mixture:

1. Dissolve 100 g of vitriol (copper) in 10 liters of water.
2. Add 200 g of lime (quicklime) to the solution.

You can also spray apple trees with iron sulfate - dissolve 200 g of iron sulfate in 10 liters of water.

Effective treatment of wood with urea:

1. Add 550 g of urea to a ten-liter bucket of water.
2. Dissolve 100 g of vitriol (copper).

Before flowering

Before the apple tree begins to bloom, the tree crown should be treated from:

• pear sucker;
• spider mite;
• leaf rollers;
• apple blossom beetle.

You can spray the tree by professional means or ash solution, as well as a complex of the above-described drugs.

After flowering

After the petals have fallen from the flowers, it is advisable to carry out a control spraying to destroy:

• ticks;
• scale insects;
• copperheads;
• apple sawfly.

At the same time, it is necessary to protect the tree from the occurrence of fungal diseases - powdery mildew and scab. A positive effect is observed when spraying an apple tree with an ash solution.

Treatment with a mixture of chemicals gives a good result:

1. Dissolve 4 ml of Antigusin in 8 liters of water.
2. Add 3 ml of the drug Boxwood.
3. Add 40 ml of Capture Oil.
4. Dissolve 10 ml of Antyklishch Pro.

Various types of harmful insects can be destroyed with the help of the drugs Antyklishch Pro, as well as Capture Oil and Antigusin. Thanks to the use of Boxwood, comprehensive protection of the apple tree is provided.

The video demonstrates spring garden cultivation. Filmed by the Svetlana-obovsem channel about the GARDEN and VEGETABLE VEGETABLE.

Spraying technology

To carry out the garden spraying process, you need appropriate equipment. If the plot small sizes, then it will help to cope with the processing mechanical device, equipped hand pump. When there are a lot of trees in the garden, it is much better and faster to carry out the procedure using a battery, gasoline or automatic device. Their use allows you to economically and evenly use the solution prepared for spraying.

It is best to treat apple trees against diseases and pests in the evening when there is no wind and the air temperature is up to +30 °C.

You need to spray apple trees against pests and diseases in the spring as follows:

1. You need to keep the sprayer at a distance of 70 cm from the surface to be treated.
2. The solution should be sprayed evenly over the trunk, branches and leaves on all sides of the tree.
3. It is important to treat the soil around the trunk.
4. To maintain the effectiveness of the solution, shake it occasionally.
5. Spray the entire garden.

Basic Safety Precautions

To protect plants, pesticides are used that are unsafe for humans and warm-blooded animals, as they can cause poisoning and even death.

Safety precautions to follow when spraying apple trees:

• carry out the spraying procedure only in special clothing (overalls or robe, boots, goggles, gloves and apron), use a respirator;
• do not allow spraying chemicals children, pregnant and lactating women, sick people;
• do not smoke, drink or eat food while working with pesticides;
• do not irrigate beds with green crops that grow near trees with solutions of pesticides;
• thoroughly rinse your mouth, nose, wash your hands and take a shower after carrying out work;
• do not allow children to be in areas treated with chemicals;
• do not irrigate flowering plants to prevent the death of bees;
• You cannot treat trees in strong winds, scorching sun or immediately after a rainstorm;
• Pesticides should be stored locked up and out of the reach of children.

Protecting apple trees from pests using fertilizers and folk remedies

Folk methods used for spring processing of apple trees include ash infusion. Ash is complex fertilizer, which directly affects pests, suppressing their vital activity. It also increases the osmotic pressure of apple juice, which leads to difficulties with feeding of sucking insects.

Method for preparing the solution:

1. Pour ash (100 g) into a bucket of water (10 l).
2. Add urea (1 tbsp) to the solution.

At home, you can prepare a garlic tincture for spraying apple trees against diseases and pests:

1. Chop half a kilogram of garlic.
2. Pour chopped garlic with water (5 l).
3. Leave for two hours.
4. Strain the solution.
5. Add water, bringing the volume of the solution to 10 liters.

Also good result in pest control is obtained by treating apple trees with infusion of chamomile.

Question

Dear author, please advise what fugicides and pesticides can now be used to treat the trees. I also think that more radical methods of struggle need to be used, but unfortunately there is no systemic knowledge, I’m afraid of doing harm. Last summer, the apple trees were heavily attacked by pests, especially aphids. All the natives around are covered in a terrible scab. Wireworms and chafer larvae are sitting in the ground; I lost a two-year-old pear; one of these villains gnawed the roots.

Most often, it is necessary to protect the garden from a complex of pests and diseases, and it would be good if several activities could be combined in time, and if you “cover” several pests or diseases, that would be great.

Below we will describe in detail how to treat apple trees in the spring against pests and diseases that are mentioned in the question. This will be a little long - so be patient.

In the described case garden trees damage:

• wireworms;
• May beetle larva.

The apple blossom beetle and codling moth will almost certainly also be found on the apple tree. However, the codling moth damages not only the apple tree.

The only disease noted was scab.

So, let's begin.

Aphids

Green apple aphids and pollinated plum aphids are most often found on fruit trees.

Green apple aphid looks like this:

Do not be surprised that within the same species there are quite a few various insects. Aphids have males, females of two types (founders and dispersers), as well as asexual virgins - winged and wingless. These are very interesting insects, but it is important for us to know three things:

• aphids overwinter in the egg phase on branches;
• during growing season it gives from 8 to 12 generations (in the conditions of the Middle Zone - 8-10);
• fantastic reproduction rates are the only way to protect these insects. They are extremely vulnerable and can be “taken out” almost completely by any modern insecticide.

The hatching of larvae begins during the opening of fruit buds. From this moment until autumn, aphids actively feed, spread and reproduce. If it were not eaten by a variety of predators, the aphid would cover the surface with a layer of a couple of meters in just a couple of years. But, fortunately, it is eaten by everyone whose mouthparts allow it.

The number of aphids in the garden is regulated by syrphid flies, predatory bugs, ladybugs, lacewing larvae and, of course, ladybugs. As a rule, their joint efforts are enough to maintain the aphid population at a level acceptable to the gardener. If there is not enough, you will have to treat the apple tree and other trees in the spring, and possibly also in the summer.

Double treatment of apple trees and other plants works well against aphids:

• the first - in the phase of swelling of fruit buds and protrusion of the bud;
• the second - during the formation of the ovary.

To treat apple trees and other crops in the spring against aphids, you can use:

1. Decis(Decis-extra, Deltamethrin, Decis Profi) - can be sold in the form of an emulsion concentrate or water-dispersible granules. For EDH with a concentration of 250 g/kg, the dosage is 0.5 grams per 10 liters of water. For other commercial forms and concentrations it is necessary to recalculate. Consumption per tree is from 2 to 5 liters depending on the size. The waiting period is 30 days.
2. Fozalon(Zolon) - usually sold in the form of an emulsion concentrate with a concentration of 350 g/kg. Dosage for this concentration is 20…40 ml per 100 square meters. Working fluid consumption is 10…15 liters per 100 square meters. The waiting period is 40 days.
3. Dursban(Chlorpyrifos, Pirinex, Siren). For emulsion concentrate with a concentration of 480 g/l. the dosage is 20 g per 100 m2 with a working fluid consumption of 10...15 l per 100 m2. The waiting period is 40 days.
4. Fufanon(Karbofos, Novaktion) and in general drugs based on malathion. For an emulsion concentrate with a concentration of 570 g/l, the dosage is 10 grams per 100 m2, the consumption of working fluid is 6...15 liters per 100 m2. The waiting period is 20 days.
5. Fastak(Rotalaz, Fascord, Tsunami) and in general drugs based on alpha-cypermethrin. For an emulsion concentrate of 100 g/l, the dosage is 1.5...2 grams per 100 m2, the working fluid consumption is 10...15 l per 100 m2. The waiting period is 30 days.
6. Sumition(Folition). For an emulsion concentrate with a concentration of 500 g/l, the dosage is 16...25 grams per 100 m2 against aphids, but if the drug is also used against codling moths, the dosage must be increased to 30 grams. Working fluid consumption - 10…15 liters per 100 m2
7. Rogor-S(BI-58) and other drugs based on dimethoate. For an emulsion concentrate with a concentration of 400 g/l, the dosage is 10...15 grams per 100 m2 with a working fluid consumption of 10...15 liters per 100 m2. The waiting period is 40 days.

A pollinated plum aphid looks like this:

It damages almost everything fruit crops, but overwinters mainly in cracks in the bark of plum and apricot trees. The overwintering stage is the egg. In biology, it is quite similar to the green apple aphid, but apple trees and other trees must be treated to protect against pollinated plum aphids after flowering. If you only have it, there is no need to spray trees and bushes during the swelling of fruit buds.

Apple flower beetle and spring treatment of apple trees to combat the pest

It is considered the most dangerous pest in the middle zone, but sometimes in small quantities it is even useful, because it prevents trees from forming too many ovaries. But only sometimes and in small quantities.

An adult is a beetle about 4...5 mm long. It looks like this:

The larva of the apple blossom beetle has a body length of about 5...6 mm and looks something like this:

The flower beetle damages apple flowers and sometimes pear flowers. Overwintered beetles feed on buds and buds. They gnaw long narrow passages in the kidneys through which the juice flows out. This is one of the signs of a garden beetle infestation.

The larvae feed on the stamens and pistil of the flower, and then glue the petals together with excrement, resulting in a brown “casing” instead of color:

In this “casing” the larva pupates, the pupa develops, and then the beetle appears and lives there until the integument hardens. Then the young beetle leaves its shelter and feeds on leaves and fruits.

In the fall, the beetles go to winter. They overwinter in cracks in the bark, in the soil and in the litter around trees.

You can get rid of some of the wintering apple blossom beetles by digging up tree trunk circles in the fall and spring. Removing some of the dead bark on older trees can also kill some of the adults. The main method of control is spraying the garden with insecticides.

The apple tree should be treated in spring and summer during the mass emergence of beetles and their colonization of the tree crowns. To do this, the garden must be inspected regularly. The drugs Rogor-S, Fastak and Fufanon have shown good effectiveness in the fight against apple blossom beetle (dosages are indicated above). In addition, the following drugs are recommended:

1. Kinmiks(emulsion concentrate 50 g/l). Dosage - 2.4...4 grams per 100 m2 with a working fluid consumption of 6...10 liters per 100 m2. The waiting period is 20 days.
2. Fitoverm(emulsion concentrate 2 g/l is a biological product and its method of use is specific). Dosage - 9...20 grams per 100 m2, working fluid consumption - 10...15 grams per 100 m2. In general, there is no waiting period.
3. Sirocco(EC 400 g/l). Dosage - 15 grams per 100 m2, working fluid consumption - 8...10 liters per 100 m2.
4. Todd(EC, 400 g/l). Dosage - 15 grams per 100 m2, working fluid consumption - 8...10 liters per 100 m2

The last two do not inspire much confidence in me personally (they are Russian), but I have not studied the data on them in detail.

Wireworm

Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles. Click beetles look like this:

Cute creatures. And their larvae are like this:

Wireworms live in the soil. They constantly move, making moves. If a root or shoot comes across on the way, they make a move in it. But not all of them: the larvae of some species of click beetles are necrophages, and all of them participate in the process of soil formation.

Wireworms cause the greatest harm to potatoes and root vegetables, but if there are a lot of them, they can harm the garden. Therefore, if possible, you should make sure that there are not many of them.

It is almost impossible to get soil-dwelling insects with pesticides - these pesticides will have to be poured and sprinkled literally in tens of kilograms. Therefore, agrotechnical measures come first:

1. digging and loosening the soil in autumn and spring destroys the wintering sites of beetles and larvae;
2. liming acidic soils leads to the death of some young larvae;
3. introduction of increased doses potash fertilizers And nitrogen fertilizers in ammonia forms also reduces the number of larvae;
4. weeds (especially wheatgrass) serve as food for phytophagous wireworms. If you remove weeds, you reduce the food supply.

In small areas, creating traps is effective. Around mid-April, oats or barley are sown in nests on the site - approximately 5...10 grains at a distance of 50 cm from each other. After the emergence of seedlings, the nests are dug out. If there are a lot of wireworms in the area, you will probably find several (and sometimes several dozen) larvae around the grains.

Instead of grains, you can use pieces of beets, potatoes, etc. - they are embedded in the soil to a depth of 10...20 cm and the locations are marked. After a few days, the bait is dug up and the wireworms are removed.

Medvedki

Mole crickets are a family of large burrowing insects with a very characteristic appearance. They lead an underground lifestyle, although many species have developed wings and can fly - albeit at low altitudes.

Mole crickets feed on both small invertebrates (worms, insects, etc.) and root vegetables. By breaking through tunnels, they damage the roots - not in order to eat them (too insignificant food for such a large insect), but it just happens that way. If it is widespread, it can be dangerous for plants - so the mole cricket population should be controlled.

As in the case of wireworms, the use of insecticides to combat mole crickets is ineffective. Therefore, their numbers have to be controlled through agrotechnical measures.

1. Late autumn and early spring digging of soil around compost heaps and heaps with manure. The heaps themselves should also be dug up - if there are mole crickets and their larvae on the site, they will spend the winter there.
2. Fresh manure traps. In the spring, we place piles of manure at a distance of several meters from each other and inspect them daily in search of hiding insects. In the fall, we create wintering pits for mole crickets - we dig holes about 50 cm deep and put manure inside. With the onset of frost, we inspect - mole crickets can hide in such pits.
3. Loosening the soil in summer months Mole crickets destroy nests and passages to a depth of 15...20 cm. Loosening should be done regularly.

May Khrushchi

There are two of them - western and eastern. In Ukraine, Western is more common.

Both larvae and adult beetles damage the May beetle. The larvae live in the soil and gnaw the roots. Adult beetles eat leaves during mass summer.

May beetles are one of the few insects with a multi-year generation. The larva develops over 4...7 years, after which it pupates and turns into a beetle. That is why mass beetle flights are not observed every year, but once or twice a decade. Usually the summer falls in May-beginning of June: that is why the May Khrushchev received such a specific name. By the way, there is a June one too.

It’s easy to recognize a Khrushchev larva - it looks like this:

If you regularly find such larvae when digging up your garden, you have a problem.

It is difficult to combat beetles due to the underground lifestyle of the larvae and the short period of summer, during which the beetles travel long distances. Even if you treat trees with insecticides during the summer, this will not cause serious damage to the beetle population. But it is possible - especially if at the same time the treatment is carried out against other pests. Any synthetic pyrethroids and neonicotenoids will work.

The main method of control is agrotechnical measures.

1. Digging the soil in late autumn and in early spring destroys wintering sites of Khrushchev and makes them vulnerable to cold weather. And almost all insectivorous birds collect larvae, and they will not miss theirs.
2. Regularly loosening the soil during the growing season will also reduce the grub population - plus you can simply collect them if you see them.

Among chemical measures, dipping the roots of seedlings into a clay mash with insecticides before planting is somewhat effective. For this purpose you can use:

• Granules "Vallar"(40 g/kg). Chatterbox is prepared at the rate of 8 grams of the drug per liter of water. in addition, 20...30 days after planting, you can add granules to the tree trunk circle with embedding to a depth of 5...10 cm.
• Terradox granules (40 g/kg). Essentially the same drug (diazinon) from the same manufacturer. The method of use is the same.

In general, the effectiveness of incorporating diazinon into the soil does not correspond to the cost of this drug, but there is no other way to protect seedlings from larvae.

Apple scab

The only disease on the list is not the most dangerous among apple tree diseases, but definitely the most ineradicable.

Scab overwinters on plant debris (fruits and leaves) in the form of immature fruiting bodies. If you remove the plant debris by doing this and burn it in the fall, most of the future spores will die in the fire.

plant resistant varieties not very effective because each is resistant to certain strains. But combining varieties with resistance to different strains of scab in one garden is a great idea.

Large distances between trees slightly reduce infestation, but only slightly. In addition, this method is clearly not for a summer cottage.

At the very effective method protecting the garden from scab - treating with fungicides. In industrial gardens, up to 17 treatments with different preparations are carried out per season. Unfortunately, there is no other way to get a large yield of marketable apples.

Preparations for treating apple trees in the spring against diseases (including scab) are very numerous (at least 50 pieces). Describe them all with recommendations for use and effectiveness - a separate topic large material. Therefore, I will give only the most common ones:

• Fitosporin-M- bacterial preparation Russian production. The effectiveness is... debatable. Dosage - 20 grams per 100 m2, working fluid consumption - approximately 10 liters per 100 m2. Spray repeatedly: during the pink bud phase, at the beginning of flowering, immediately after flowering, when the ovary is about 1 cm in diameter and when the ovary is the size of a hazelnut. The drug is harmless;
• - another bacterial drug. Dosage - 0.6...1.5 g per 100 m2, working fluid consumption up to 15 liters per hectare. Spray, starting from the protrusion of the buds, up to three times at intervals of a week;
• Baktofit in the form of a wettable powder (bacterial). Dosage - 7 grams per liter, working fluid consumption - up to 10 liters per 100 m2. Up to 4 treatments are allowed during the growing season;
• Gamair- also bacterial. 10 tablets per 10 liters of water. Consumption - up to 3 liters per tree. Three-time treatment - in the pink bud phase, immediately after flowering, when the ovary reaches size hazelnut. It can also be produced in the form of a wettable powder. In this case, the dosage is 0.6…1.5 grams per 100 m2
• Vitaplan, wettable powder. Dosage - 0.8...1.2 grams per 100 m2, working fluid consumption - up to 15 liters per 100 m2. Up to 4 treatments during the growing season
• Sporobacterin. Dosage per tree - 20 grams of powder, working fluid consumption - up to 10 liters per tree
• Bellis- but this is no longer bacterial. Sold in granule form. Dosage - 8 grams per 100 m2, working fluid consumption - up to 10 liters per 100 m2. Treat starting from the separation of the bud with an interval between treatments of 10...14 days. Up to 4 treatments are allowed. Waiting period - 10 days
• Delan- 5...7 grams per 100 m2, working fluid consumption - up to 10 liters per 100 m2. Up to 5 treatments during the growing season (preferably starting from bud development). The waiting period is 28 days.
• Tercel- 20…25 grams per 100 m2 with a working fluid consumption of up to 10 liters. You can spray three times during the growing season, starting from the bud separation phase. The interval between treatments is 10…14 days, the waiting period is 20 days.
• Rayok- a well-known drug, quite effective. Dosage per 100m2 - 1.5...2ml, working fluid consumption - 10l. It is recommended to spray during the green cone and pink bud phase, and then 2 more times with an interval of 10...15 days.
• Score- exactly the same in terms of the active substance and recommendations.

Spring treatment of apple trees against pests and diseases - general recommendations

It should be processed in warm, windless, cloudy weather. If the forecast predicts rain, it is better to reschedule the treatment.

For spraying a tree, any backpack or other garden sprayer is suitable, with which you can reach the tops of the trees. It is important that it has a good sprayer: the working fluid should not be sprayed in large drops, but as an aerosol - in this case, the effectiveness of using pesticides will be maximum. Cheap or worn atomizers do not produce fine enough droplets.

For starters, this will probably be enough. Over time, we will publish materials on each pest, disease and drug separately. Good luck protecting your garden!

In spring and autumn it is necessary to treat apple trees. The yield and health of the tree depend on this. To do everything correctly, you need to know the rules of spring and autumn processing, which are described in this article.

Processing apple trees in spring

It is necessary to treat the tree in early spring before the onset of sap flow. For this you will need pruning shears and a hacksaw. The cut areas need to be processed special means. To spray apple tree wounds, you need to prepare a 5% solution of copper sulfate.

It is necessary to carefully examine the trunk and all branches of the tree for various damage, cracking, the presence of pests, and mummified fruits. All this must be removed using tools. The mycelium must be removed with a sharp knife until it reaches living, healthy wood tissue. To prevent healthy tissue from becoming infected, it is recommended to treat the instrument with fire or a solution of copper sulfate during the process.

Tree pruning should be done with sharp tools so as not to cause more damage to the apple tree. After cutting, there should be no “stumps” left so that pests do not settle in them. Excess branches must be removed to allow sunlight and air to enter.

When the spring frosts end and the temperature reaches an approximate temperature of +5 degrees, you can begin further actions to treat apple trees against diseases and destroy winter rookeries of pests - weevils, moths and others. To do this, you need to collect with a garden rake. autumn leaves and burn them.

Now you should cover the soil around the trunk with oilcloth and clean the trunks and old skeletal branches from old bark, moss, lichens, and growths using a plastic spatula or a stiff brush. If wounds appear on the trunk, they should be treated immediately. All cleaned areas must be washed with the solution. To prepare it you will need:

• a bucket of hot water;
• 2.5 kg of wood ash;
• 2 pieces of dark laundry soap, pre-grated;
• 1 kg of non-iodized salt.

Mix all ingredients and let it boil. After the solution has cooled, you can treat the trees.

Proper whitewashing of trunks

Despite the fact that the tree trunks were whitewashed in the fall, it must be repeated in the spring. This will save the tree from severe sunburn, fungal diseases, and repel annoying insects.

For spring treatment of apple trees, it is necessary to prepare an effective solution with lime and copper sulfate in the ratio of 10 liters of water per 350 grams of vitriol. If the crown of trees is always damaged by rodents, then it is suggested to add 1 tbsp to the resulting mixture. spoon of carbolic acid.

To prevent the mixture from being washed off the trunk after rain, you can add clay to it to create a viscous consistency. The trunks and lower parts of skeletal branches should be whitened, treating joints and forks.

Having finished whitewashing, you need to spray the soil around the trunk with a special solution (copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, etc.), dig up the ground and spray again.

Spring spraying

Inexperienced gardeners are interested in the timing of processing apple trees. Tree processing is carried out in three stages, which allows gardeners to deal with different types insects A separate remedy is selected for a specific “enemy”.

Spraying stages:

1. The first spraying of apple trees is carried out before the buds open in March or April. If the tree is in satisfactory condition, then Bordeaux mixture, a solution of iron or copper (3-5%) sulfate (5%) and other broad-spectrum fungicides are used. Spraying with urea kills pests and feeds the plant with nitrogen. It can be used if there are no fungal diseases in the garden.

1. The second spraying of apple trees is carried out during the swelling of the buds. At this time, the insects have already woken up and begin to make their way to the branches of the tree. They can be poisoned with insecticides: Bi-58, Binom, Fufaron, Lepidotsid, Ditox and others.
2. The third spraying of apple trees is carried out after flowering. The last spraying is aimed at destroying flower beetles, aphids, and apple moths. The following drugs will help protect the tree: Fufaron, Zolon, Novaktion, Pirimix.

Only a gardener can know what diseases afflict trees and what insects cause a massive invasion after winter, so treatment is carried out taking into account these circumstances at a certain time. If the apple tree is overcome by weevils (bukarka and apple flower beetle), then the crown should be sprayed with a lime mixture in the ratio of 10 liters of water per 2 kg of slaked lime. This should be done at a temperature of +7 degrees. You can save a tree from scab, leaf spot, and powdery mildew using the drug “Strobi”, a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

During flowering, trees are not sprayed, because the drugs can scare away beneficial insects, then you shouldn’t expect a rich harvest. But in some cases, gardeners do this, but only with the biological product “Ovary” in cold weather.

By treating after flowering, you can be sure that it is protected from diseases and pests. Each gardener decides independently how to treat the fruit tree, but experts give some useful tips:

• Strobby, Fundazol, Skor, Raek, Cumulux, 1% Bordeaux mixture will save fruits from rot, fungal diseases, scab;
• Decis, Fitoverm protect the tree from moths, ringed silkworms, aphids, moths, leaf rollers;
• Karate, Apollo will repel the gall mite;
• Karbofos, Novaktion, Kemifos, Fufanom - from the sawfly.

You need to constantly care for your fruit tree. It will require not only timely spraying, but also removal of weeds and loosening of the soil around the planting. To get a significant harvest, you need to feed the tree with useful substances and water it regularly. If a fungal disease is discovered, it should be eliminated immediately.

Watch the video! Processing apple and pear trees in spring

How to care for an apple tree in autumn?

Basic care for fruit trees is carried out in spring period. In autumn, chores are limited to watering the trees, digging up the earth around the trunks, and whitewashing. Autumn care increases

• winter hardiness,
• productivity
• apple tree fruitfulness.

When to prepare for winter?

In the fall, summer residents harvest! It needs to be sorted out, stored, and processed. But there is very little time left to prepare for a harsh winter. But it doesn’t matter; you can start preparing for winter before the onset of frost.

Autumn treatment scheme

Pruning branches

First of all, it is necessary to remove dry, damaged, diseased, growing inside the crown.

The branches should be trimmed carefully, without lifting the bark. The cut areas should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate in a ratio of 1 part. spoon per 1 liter of water, and then garden pitch. Cracks, wounds and even small scratches also need to be treated.

Important! Branches should be pruned in autumn in dry weather at temperatures not lower than -10 degrees. In cold weather, the wood becomes very tender and cuts can form huge cracks, which will lead to the death of the tree.

Barrel processing

The processing of the trunk includes several stages that should not be neglected:

• inspection of the tree for the presence of moss, lichens and their removal;
• identification and elimination of harmful insects;
• whitewash;
• soil cultivation.

Getting rid of moss and lichen

Having finished sanitary pruning, you need to carefully examine the trunk and branches of the tree to identify the presence of moss and lichen. In small quantities they do not harm the plant. But from benign “aliens” they can turn into malignant ones. Then the entire tree will be covered with lichens and it will not be able to breathe. In this case, the death of the plant is inevitable. In addition, lichens and mosses can spread to other trees in the garden.

Pests should be removed with a plastic scraper. After cleaning, you need to treat the location of mosses and lichens with a solution of copper sulfate and garden pitch.

You can get rid of lichen using slaked lime and clay, mixing them in equal proportions.

The consistency is applied to the mushrooms, and after drying they are easily removed. Now you need to wait until the treated area dries before covering it with garden varnish.

The final stage is treating the trunk with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Elimination of harmful insects

Identifying insects is very simple: you need to carefully peel back the bark; they hide right under it. Insects must be removed along with the tree bark.

Insecticidal preparations (Karbofos or Aktara), fungicides (Horus) will protect the tree from insects and diseases.

Whitewashing the trunk

There should be no lumps in the whitewash composition. The trunk is processed from skeletal branches. The recommended coating thickness is 2-3 mm, so the lime mixture must be applied several times. The wood must be processed conscientiously, not sparing the solution. The consistency of the mixture should be similar to sour cream, but flow freely down the trunk. Whitewashing will protect the bark from rodents, bright winter sun, and the appearance of cracks.

There are several whitewash compositions:

• ready-made store-bought whitewash. It does not require additional preparation. Its disadvantage is that it is quickly washed off;
• lime mixture with the addition of vitriol and clay. The disadvantage is that the consistency is not very stable, so it is applied several times;
• a mixture of 10 liters of water, 500 grams of copper sulfate, 3 kg of lime and 200 grams of wood glue.

Seedlings cannot be treated with concentrated compounds, acrylic and water-based paint. Barrels should not be cleaned, because young tree very delicate and any damage can lead to the death of the seedling; it is enough to disinfect it.

It is not recommended to whitewash young seedlings. For the winter, their trunks can be wrapped with roofing felt, thick sheets of cardboard, spruce or pine branches. The spraying and whitewashing procedure must be carried out on all trees at once so that the pests do not have time to migrate to another place.

Tillage

After trimming the leaves and whitewashing, you need to work on the ground.

What is included in this process:

• cleaning up fallen leaves;
• digging up the soil around the trunk;
• mulching.

Timing for spraying apple trees

The procedure should be carried out after the leaves have fallen. Early spraying can harm the tree, exposing the leaves to scorch and premature shedding. This can lead to bad consequences - the death of the fruit tree. When to process depends on the region. It can be completed at the end of October or at the beginning of November. The main thing is to do it before the first frost.

Work should be carried out on a calm, sunny day. Windy weather with precipitation will not give a positive result, it will only waste time and reduce the effectiveness of the drug to “zero”.

Feeding apple trees in autumn

Here gardeners' opinions differ. Some people think that doing this in the autumn is completely pointless. Other avid gardeners claim that fertilizer will help the apple tree survive the winter. In any case, fertilizers will not harm the fruit tree. This process takes little time. Per m² of soil you need to add 5-6 kg of humus. You can use compost instead. As a fertilizer, you can use 100 g of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium chloride, wood ash, carbamide. They are added to the soil during watering.

You can simplify the work by adding fertilizer while digging the soil.

Conclusion

Apple orchard requires special attention. The main thing to remember is that plants are treated with various means several times a year, because both adult and young trees require care. Autumn and spring treatments will make the plantings healthier, and in return they will give good harvest. The video below clearly shows how to care for your garden.

Watch the video! Autumn tree treatment

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Apple orchard. What could be more beautiful and tastier than your own rosy apples, which bloom on branches bent under the weight of a rich harvest. But to get a good harvest, the plants need to be looked after. Caring for an apple orchard is a whole range of activities, which includes pruning trees, feeding them, whitewashing, replanting, frost protection, and installing supports. But one of the most important stages care is the treatment of apple trees in the spring from diseases and pests.

The very first defense after winter is to spray apple trees with special preparations that will prevent infection with fungal diseases and protect the trees from insect invasion.

But, before you start spraying trees, you need to choose the right preparations, and then systematically carry out protective work, without skipping a single step.

Even in winter it is necessary to prepare for the future spring work in the garden. Purchase all the medications you need from the list. Also stock up on tools and devices.

What are the types of protective drugs?

There are many types of protection products available today. All of them can be divided into three groups.

1. Biological drugs.
2. Chemicals.
3. Combined means.

Biological drugs

They are the safest and most environmentally friendly. They are developed on a biological basis, which includes beneficial bacteria that can destroy harmful insects and fungal viruses. The action of biological products is prolonged. Usually spraying with them is carried out in advance, since it will take about two weeks to achieve the effect.

Chemicals

Compared to biological agents, they have maximum efficiency and speed of action. But if you use them without observing safety measures, violating dosages and permitted processing times, they can pose a serious danger to human health. With an almost instantaneous effect on pests, chemicals tend to disintegrate for a very long time. Their effect is neutralized on average only three weeks after treatment. Therefore, meeting deadlines is very important.

Combination drugs

This group includes drugs that consist of both chemical and biological components. These remedies can combat all problems comprehensively, achieving a good effect with minimal harm to health.

The composition of the combined products may include insecticides that destroy eggs and larvae of insects and the pests themselves. In order to get rid of fungal diseases or prevent infection by them, fungicides are used.

There is a division of preparations for treating plants into two types according to the method of action.

1. Contact– neutralize insects directly as soon as they fall on them and come into contact. They are fast, but their validity is limited to one week, and only if the weather is dry, without rain.
2. System– after application, they penetrate into wood or leaf tissue and poison pests after they begin to eat it. Their effect lasts two weeks or more. Then the process of decay occurs.

Stages of spring processing

Processing apple trees in the spring should take place in three stages. You should not skip any of them, since only unconditional compliance with the rules guarantees full protection of the garden.

First stage

Starts approximately in mid-March. Signal to start in your climatic zone Warming the air to +5°C for several days can serve. The main purpose of treatment at this time is the prevention of diseases that can affect trees as soon as sap flow begins, as well as the destruction of pests that are not yet active, but, having safely overwintered, hide in the tree bark.

The time before the start of sap flow, until the buds swell - best period for processing chemical compounds. If you use chemicals during the period when the buds have formed, the acids in the preparations can simply burn the swollen buds and prevent them from developing into leaves.

At this stage, you can use chemicals, but it is better to focus on complex preparations. Insecticides and fungicides are used alternately. The following means are used for processing.

Copper sulfate

Copper sulfate solution is a fungicide that prevents almost all fungal diseases, and also protects from rotting and disinfects wounds that could appear on the surface of the bark in winter, under the influence of cold.

The solution is prepared as follows. For 10 minutes of water take 100 g of 1% copper sulfate. Two liters of the resulting composition is enough to process one tree, the age of which does not exceed seven years. If the apple tree is older, the quantity increases proportionally.

"Nitrophen"

This drug is complex and destroys not only insects, but their larvae, egg laying, and also neutralizes pathogens of fungal diseases that have overwintered in the soil under fallen leaves. Nitrofen also protects apple trees from powdery mildew, dangerous scab, and infectious diseases such as curl and spotting.

Prepare a composition from 300 ml of the drug with a concentration of 3%, diluted with ten liters of water.

Many people are interested in how to combine whitewashing of apple trees with therapeutic spraying. Trees can be bleached after treatment, but only middle lane It is better to do whitewashing earlier than mid-March - at the end of February or at the very beginning of spring.

Urea

The common name known to summer residents is urea. This is probably the most effective remedy, which is used to combat all varieties of aphids, copperhead, weevil and apple flower beetle. In addition to protecting against insects, urea helps prevent scab, spotting and saturates the tree tissue and the soil around it with nitrogen.

The treatment composition is prepared from 10 liters of water, to which 500 g of urea with a concentration of 5% is added.

If you have noticed a lot of pests on the trees since the fall, then it makes sense to treat the apple trees with a more concentrated solution. You can take not 500, but 700 g of the drug for the same amount of water, or use a composition of higher concentration.

Second phase

The second treatment is carried out after the buds swell and begin to actively bloom. Just don’t delay spraying until flowering begins. Depending on your climate, it will be time for a second application sometime between late March and mid-April.

Spraying at this stage is designed to exterminate all insects that, having awakened from hibernation, begin an active life.

Also, the second treatment will help protect apple trees from scab and fruit rot. At this stage, the following means are used.

Ferrous sulfate

Treatment with iron copper sulfate provides an almost complete guarantee of the destruction of egg laying by the copperhead and many other insects. In addition, the drug disinfects the bark and branches, promoting the healing of cracks and other mechanical damage. Scab, rot, lichen and moss are also destroyed at this stage.

Except medicinal properties, the drug is also nutritious, saturating trees and soil with the necessary amount of iron.

The solution is prepared as follows: 700 g of the drug with a concentration of 5% is taken per 10 liters of water.

Bordeaux liquid

An indispensable fungicide in gardening, which contains lime and copper sulfate. Helps destroy the larvae of most insects and is the best prevention of all diseases of fruit trees.

The solution is prepared by stirring a kilogram of lime and copper sulfate in 10 liters of water. The water is taken hot. Cookware should not be made of aluminum. After preparation, the composition is diluted with water 1:3. The color should be pure blue.

To ensure that there is not too much copper in the composition, before use it is necessary to dip a clean, non-rusty nail into the solution. If you hold it for some time in a solution supersaturated with copper, it will turn red. In this case, add water and lime.

The solution should only be used freshly prepared, no later than five hours after mixing, otherwise it will then precipitate in flakes, and it will be impossible to spray the composition on trees.

Colloidal sulfur

An excellent antifungal agent that also protects apple trees from plant mites.

It is incompatible with organophosphate insecticides and iron sulfate, so joint treatments with these drugs should not be carried out.

The composition is prepared from 10 liters of water with the addition of 80 g of sulfur in small portions, stirring until it forms a suspension.

Must be used immediately, no later than an hour later. This is a long-acting drug that lasts up to 12 days.

"Lepidocide"

A biological preparation that is used for treatment at the second stage to combat leaf-eating insects. The product is safe and does not harm humans or pollinating insects. It acts through the intestines of insects, causing their death when they enter it. The effect begins four hours after treatment.

The composition should be prepared in the proportion of 100 ml and 10 liters of water. Use no later than 24 hours after preparation.

Third stage

This is May, when the apple trees have already bloomed, two to three weeks later. It is necessary to protect trees from codling moths, weevil larvae, moth larvae, varieties of aphids and leaf roller caterpillars.

Benzophosphate

An insecticide that is effective against sap-sucking and leaf-eating pests. It does not harm bees and other beneficial insects that pollinate the garden. The action lasts two weeks.

For 10 liters of water, take 70 g of the drug with a concentration of 10%.

Karbofos

A widely used insecticide used to kill aphids, weevils, mites, scale insects, codling moths and leaf rollers. This drug may also pose a risk to pollinators, particularly bees.

When preparing 10 liters of water, take 60 of the composition. Two liters is enough for young apple trees; for old ones trees, depending on age, may need up to ten.

Chlorophos

Although it is a systemic contact insecticide, it is not dangerous for beneficial insects. But it is poisonous not only to the larvae of harmful insects, but also to adults.

The dilution rate is 70 g per 10 liters of water. Do not mix the drug with Bordeaux mixture.

Treatment of the garden, carried out within the prescribed time frame, in compliance with the dosages and standards for using the drug, will certainly bear fruit. If you did everything correctly in the spring, you won’t have to worry about your apple trees being attacked by diseases or your crop being damaged by insects throughout the entire growing season.