BanBas –

Introduction………………………………………………………………………………..p. 2

Technology of plastering and waterproofing the pool bowl……………….p. 3

Description and technological properties of materials………………………p. 7

Additional drawings:

Installation of mortgage….……………………………………………………..…………..……p. 44

Section of the pool bowl……………………………………..…………..……p. 45

INTRODUCTION

In pool design, it is extremely important that the bowl has effective waterproofing, strength and crack resistance to ensure longevity. MAPEI, a world leader in the production of construction chemicals, has decades of experience in the construction of new swimming pools and the renovation of existing ones.

For the preparation of concrete surfaces, MAPEI offers a wide selection of superplasticizers, adhesives, hydro insulating materials and various acrylic-based additives. When using MAPEI technologies and products, you will receive a waterproof and durable pool bowl.

Technology of plastering and waterproofing the pool bowl.

After the pool bowl is completely cast from concrete, plastering work begins to align the planes and dimensions in plan for finishing.

The first thing that needs to be done is to clean the remains of formwork, dirt, and fragile surfaces. Afterwards, a galvanized metal mesh is placed on the inner surface of the sides of the pool. The mesh is attached using dowel nails and pieces of tin. The minimum number of such fastenings is 15 pieces per 1 m2. Then the prepared surface is wetted with water. This is done to remove dust.

The next stage is the “breakdown” of the pool bowl, taking into account the required dimensions of the pool architecture, angles and planes. They make beacons under the plaster. The “breakdown” begins with the longer sides, and from them proceeds to the end ones.

Just before sketching plaster mixture a “syringe” of solution is made onto the walls of the poolStrato4900 and water in proportions 1:1.

The basis of the plaster mixture is a cement-sand mixture of grade M-150 or M-300. In the first case, to speed up the hardening process and strength, several ladles of M-500 Portland cement are added to the mixture. To impart special properties, special solutions and additives from the company are added to the composition MAPEI:

Fluxan – solution that increases strength and adhesive properties

Saturfix – solution that increases waterproofing and protective properties

Fiberflex – reinforcing fibers that reduce the possibility of cracks and increase impact resistance.

Strato 4900 – a solution that increases adhesion and protects the reinforcing mesh from corrosion.

Atlas+ - glue, serves as a plasticizer.

In the case of using the M-300 mixture, the plastered surface is puttied with glueAtlas+ for leveling and smoothing small holes and scratches.

After plastering the sides of the pool, they begin to screed the bottom. The bottom surface must also be clean, free of fat and dirt. Beacons are made with a slope towards the bottom drains. The sequence of operations and composition of the plaster mixture is similar to the previous one, but for screed concrete surface It is advisable to treat with a two-component composition Eporip, “tightly” holding the contacting layers together. The composition is applied to the surface by spraying or brushing.

Now the bowl is ready for installation of embedded parts (spotlights, nozzles, counterflow, skimmer, geyser, etc.). They are installed in previously left niches. A “cold seam” is applied along the perimeter of each embed HydroSeal 355, the distance from it to the edge of the concrete surface must be no less than 7 cm. Immediately before pouring the anchoring solution Mapefillthe inner surface of concrete can be treated with a solutionStrato 4900 (1:1). This will increase adhesion. For installation, formwork is installed (attached with a mortgage): on one side of the wall, if the hole for the mortgage is not through, and on both sides, if it is through. A hole is first made in the bowl or formwork (depending on the convenience of supplying the repair composition). After pouring inside Mapefilland when it hardens, the formwork is removed. There should be no holes or voids on the surface!

After installing the mortgages, we begin waterproofing the pool bowl.

The room must be completely isolated from strangers, since maintaining cleanliness is an important technology factor.

The surface of the plaster under waterproofing is cleaned and wetted. Coating waterproofingMapelasticapplied in two layers:

The first one is with a “recessed” reinforcing fiberglass mesh 5x5mm(approximately 160 g/sq.m.), layer thickness two mm. The mesh should overlap with the next one. After the first has dried, a second layer of waterproofing is applied. Mapelastic must cover the flanges of the embedded parts. Subsequent operations are carried out after drying, after several days, depending on the hardening conditions. It is advisable to subsequently level the waterproofing surface with glue. AtlasPlus.

Tile or mosaic cladding
Before tiling with ceramic tiles or glass mosaics, the base must be perfectly level. The surface should be free of dirt, oil stains, dust, etc. The adhesive is applied to the surface of the tile with a notched trowel. To give the glue elasticity, a polymer emulsion is added ISOLASTIC. The life time of the glue is no more than 25 minutes, because then a water-insoluble film is formed on the surface, preventing the surfaces from gluing. The tiles are leveled no later than 45-60 minutes after laying. Tiles should not be exposed to water for 24 hours after installation.

After the glue has gained the required strength, the seams are rubbed. A two-component acid-resistant epoxy grout filler is used for grouting joints. KERAPOXY, which cures within a few hours without shrinking, has exceptional adhesion and mechanical strength. The seam is filled with putty using a flexible metal spatula or a hard rubber float. For large volumes of work, KERAPOXY can be applied with a syringe filled directly from the container.

When performing work, it is necessary to comply with all technological, temperature and other requirements specified below in the section describing the company products used MAPEI.

Description and technological properties of materials.

HydroSeal 355

Sealant for waterproofing. Expands in volume upon contact with water.

HydroSeal 355 is a waterproofing sealant of paste consistency with excellent adhesion to almost all substrates used in construction. The sealant is applied using a mounting gun. The sealant does not contain solvents. The sealant hardens from moisture contained in the air or in the base to which it is applied, forming a highly elastic mass, which, in turn, increases in volume upon contact with water.

Only highly concentrated electrolyte solutions, such as salt water, can have only a slight effect on the increase in volume. Despite this, the sealant is successfully used in contact with sea or salt water. The presence of alkali has a positive effect on increasing volume.

Application

To carry out work on waterproofing structural joints in concrete elements; also on uneven surfaces, in places where pipes and cables enter; for waterproofing expansion joints and as an expanding adhesive for hydraulic cords ( IDROSTOP).

In all situations where waterproofing of seams against the penetration of water or aqueous solutions is required.

Mapefill

High-flow, non-shrinking cement mortar for anchoring.

Usage and typical applications

For anchoring equipment and metal structures

Pouring rigid joints between concrete elements

Fastening structures

Product Description

MAPEFILL is a pre-mixed ready-made powder consisting of high-quality cement, graded filler and special additives with an expanding agent, prepared in the Mapei research laboratory. When mixed with water, Mapefill becomes a highly fluid solution that easily fills spaces with complex configurations. Due to the content of the expanding agent, MAPEFILL is characterized by a complete absence of plastic shrinkage (standard UNI 8996) and very quickly gains final flexural and compressive strength (standard UNI8147).

MAPEFILL has the following qualities:

excellent resistance to moisture.

excellent adhesion to metal and concrete.

excellent resistance to dynamic mechanical loads.

the modulus of elasticity and coefficient of thermal expansion are similar
characteristics of concrete.

MAPEFILL does not contain metal fillers or aluminum powder.

Application of the composition

Preparing the base

Remove all damaged concrete to a strong and solid base. Clean the base from dust, dirt, cement and grease residues. Saturate the walls of the cavity that will be filled with MAPEFILL with water. Before pouring the compound, wait until excess moisture evaporates. If necessary, use a sponge or compressed air to remove excess water.

Preparation of the solution

Pour into the concrete mixer the amount of water required to achieve the desired consistency (see table). Turn on the mixer and gradually and continuously add MAPEFILL. After 1-2 minutes, stop the concrete mixer, scrape off the unmixed MAPEFILL powder from its walls and turn on the mixer again for about 2-3 minutes until the mixture is homogeneous.

Depending on the amount of mixture to be mixed, use a concrete mixer or a mechanical low-speed mixer (to avoid the formation of air bubbles in the mixture). Mixing by hand is not recommended. Application of the solution Pour in MAPEFILL continuously from one side only, so as not to create an air lock, filling a cavity that should be twice the diameter of the reinforcement being fixed.

When using MAPEFILL to fill joints between precast concrete elements or to fill rigid joints, the recommended layer thickness is 6 cm.

There is no need to compact the poured MAPEFILL. To fill difficult areas, use wooden formwork or steel rods.

Adding Pea Gravel

When filling voids larger than the specified dimensions, it is allowed to add fine gravel with a maximum diameter of 8-10 mm in an amount of up to 30% by weight of MAPEFILL.

Precautions

At + 20 °C no additional measures are required.

In hot weather, do not expose the composition to sunlight and
When preparing the mixture, use cold water.

At low temperatures, use warm water with temperature
close to + 20 °C.

Once MAPEFILL has begun to gain strength, protect the surface from too rapid evaporation of water, which can cause cracking due to plastic shrinkage, especially in hot or windy weather.

Moisten the MAPEFILL surface outdoors with water
within the first 24 hours or use an anti-evaporation agent.

Cleaning

Fresh solution is removed from instruments with water. After setting, cleaning is difficult and is only possible mechanically.

Consumption

1.95 kg/liter of cavity to be filled.

Package

MAPEFILL is supplied in 25kg bags.

Storage

Store MAPEFILL in its original, unopened container in a dry place.

Strato 4900

Problem

At repair work problems often arise related to poor adhesion of repair solutions and the need to protect reinforcement from corrosion. In these cases, the use of STRATO 4900 is recommended.

Description

STRATO 4900 is an aqueous dispersion of styrene-butadiene copolymers, resistant to alkalis and water after application.

Purpose

STRATO 4900 is designed to increase adhesion in the manufacture of reinforced concrete castings, making the reinforcement chemically passive to cement mortars. It is also used as a primer when forming corner fillets and in other cases requiring resistance to shrinkage and good adhesion to the surface being treated.

P surface preparation

The surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, rust, small particles, oils and fats. Before applying the STRATO 4900 solution, the surface should be moistened until completely saturated, but without forming a film of water on the surface. The reinforcement bars must be stripped to bare metal.

Preparation and application of the composition

S TRATO 4900 is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:1, and then cement is added to the liquid until a solution is obtained with a consistency that allows application by brush. Subsequently, the applied solution should be applied using the “fresh to fresh” method. To increase the adhesion of repair mortars, STRATO 4900 is mixed with water in a ratio of 1:3. To give the solution increased water resistance, STRATO 4900 is mixed with water in a ratio of 1:2. After mixing with water, the composition is added to the cement mortar. Reinforcing bars are treated with a solution immediately after stripping.

PRECAUTIONS:

Protect from frost

Use at temperatures from +5 0C to +40 0C

Store at a temperature not lower than +5 °C

Do not use undiluted as a primer or adhesive bridges.

After use, rinse the tool with water

Ventilate the workplace

In case of contact with eyes or skin, rinse with water

Advantages

Makes the reinforcement chemically passive

Provides excellent adhesion to a variety of surfaces

Increases the water resistance of solutions

Reduces production time for concrete castings

Improves chemical resistance

SPECIFICATIONS:

Specific Gravity	1.0 kg/l
Dry residue
Color	milky white
Shelf life	12 months
Package	canister - 5 kg, 20 kg

PROPORTIONS FOR SOLUTIONS

	STRATO 4900	Water	Cement	Repair mixture
Thin layer for concrete castings			of necessity
Primer for promoting adhesion
Composition for coating reinforcement
Thin layer for repair mortar

Chloride-free liquid superfluid concrete admixture

Color	brown
The initial state	liquid
Package	canister 5 kg, 20 kg
Shelf life	2 years

Properties

FLUXAN mixed with solution:

Increases mechanical strength without reducing the amount of water in the solution

Reduces vibration requirement

Significantly increases the lifetime of the solution while maintaining its homogeneity

Increases water resistance and adhesion of concrete to reinforcement

FLUXAN is used for:

Self-leveling and synthetic fiber reinforced mortars, concrete castings of complex shapes

Reinforced and prestressed concrete

Pre-fabricated concrete

Ready-made dry mixes

Injection cements

Underground and surface concrete tanks and reservoirs

Foundations and panels subject to delamination and sulfate attack

Consumption

0.7 – 1.5% by weight of cement (Specific gravity of FLUXAN – 1.15 kg/liter)

MAIN CHARACTERISTICS:

pH factor
Ford Viscosity	11 sec
Dry residue by weight
Water solubility	full
Flammability	non-flammable

Fiberflex

Polypropylene fibers (fiber) for strengthening mortar and concrete mixtures.

Description

Short polymer fibers based on polypropylene, processed using special technology.

FIBERFLEX is reliably bound by hydraulic binders and is resistant to chemical and atmospheric agents, as well as to the chemical environment of hydraulic binders. The reinforcing properties of FIBERFLEX improve impact resistance, increase abrasion resistance, and reduce the possibility of cracks.

FIBERFLEX is used for restoration and renovation work, hole filling, industrial and domestic flooring, prefabricated building elements, reinforced concrete, shotcrete, decorative vases, fountains, fencing and façade finishing.

Mode of application

FIBERFLEX is added in a proportion of 1 kg/m3 to solutions with an average content of binding additives. For concrete, mortars with a high cement content or special concrete, it is recommended to increase the fiber dosage accordingly (1.5 kg/m3). Additives in larger quantities can be used if it is necessary to achieve higher quality indicators to prevent the formation of cracks, improve the quality of thin layers of mortar or lightweight products.

Reduces the possibility of cracking

Increases the thixotropy of the solution

Reduces shrinkage cracking

Increases mechanical strength

Improves solution quality

SPECIFICATIONS

Appearance	Fibers
Color	Straw color
Specific Gravity	0.91 g/cm3
Tensile strength	500 MPa
Toxicity
Modulus of elasticity	19 GPa
Thickness	20 µm
Length
Shelf life in a dry place in the manufacturer's packaging	Indefinite
Package	25 bags of 1 kg

Saturfix

Liquid waterproofing additive for mortars.

Color	white
The initial state	liquid
Density	1.01 + 0.02 kg/l
Package	canister 5 kg, 20 kg
Shelf life	6 months

SATURFIX mixed with solution:

Strongly reduces the capillarity of concrete, prevents the capillary rise of moisture, infiltration from leaks, and dampness brickwork

Does not damage fittings as it does not contain chlorides

Easy to use

Application area.

S ATURFIX is used to improve the waterproofing of concreteused in construction:

Foundations and foundation walls

Dams, piers, jetties, docks

Tunnels

Terrace and concrete roof

Channels, containers, reservoirs,swimming pools

Foundations and screeds in contact with the aquifer

And also for mortars and plasters used for:

Walls exposed to heavy rain

Floors and walls in basements

Elevator shaft

Preparationwaterproof mortar for plastering:

SATURFIX up to 1.0% by weight of cement (pre-mix SATURFIX with water)

If it is necessary to increase adhesion, the adhesion additive COLLASEAL is added to the solution, mixed with water in a ratio of 1:3.

Old surfaces must be cleaned of plaster, dirt, dust, oils, and salt crystals.

MAIN CHARACTERISTICS:

pH factor 9.5

Ford viscosity 11 sec

Flammability not flammable

Mapelastic

Elastic waterproofing coating for swimming pools

Application area

Elastic waterproofing of concrete surfaces, base layers of plaster and cement beacons.

Examples of using

Waterproofing of concrete tanks for storing water, including drinking water.

Waterproofing bathrooms, showers, balconies, terraces, etc. before tiling with ceramic tiles.

Protective waterproofing coatings for retaining walls.

Elastic protection concrete structures small profile, subject to deformation under load (i.e. prefabricated structures).

Waterproofing protective coatings for concrete surfaces exposed to water and chemical compounds, such as anti-icing salts, sulfates, carbon dioxide etc.

Specifications

Mapelastic is a two-component composition based on binders, fine-graded aggregates with special additives and synthetic polymers mixed with water, produced according to a formula developed in the MAPEI research laboratories. After mixing the two components, the product turns into a homogeneous mixture that can be easily applied even to vertical surfaces with a thickness of up to 2 mm per layer. Due to the high content of high-quality synthetic resins, Mapelastic adheres well to any brick and concrete

surfaces. When hardened, it forms an elastic layer that does not allow CC>2, SO2, chlorides and sulfates to pass through.

Do not use Mapelastic to apply thick layers
(more than 2 mm per layer).

Do not apply Mapelastic at temperatures below +8°C.

Do not add cement, aggregates or water to Mapelastic.

Protect from rain and accidental exposure to water for the first 24 hours after application.

Preparing the base

A) For waterproofing protection of concrete

To ensure good adhesion, when preparing the base it is necessary to carry out additional preparation. The surface to be treated must be completely clean and intact. This is achieved using a water demolition system, sandblasting or washing with high pressure hoses.

Concrete surfaces must be completely free from dust, cement laitance, traces of formwork and mold lubricating oil, mold, loose joints and rust.

B) For waterproofing swimming pools

-Cement screeds

-Existing floors

-Spray

Preparing the mixture:

Pour Part B (liquid) into a suitable clean container, then slowly add Part A (powder) while stirring the mixture with a mechanical mixer.

Stir gentlyMapelasticwithin a few minutes, ensuring complete dissolution of the powder on the walls and bottom of the container.

Stir until smooth.

Application of the composition:

Using a trowel, apply a 2mm thick layer of the prepared composition to the surface. If necessary, apply a second coat after 4-5 hours. In areas subject to high stress, it is recommended to insert fiberglass mesh inside. The surface can be smoothed with a trowel five minutes after application.

The technical data table provides identification and performance characteristicsMapelastic.

Mapelastic has high resistance to chemical corrosion. Protects concrete from corrosion. Completely blocks the penetration of salt into concrete.

Consumption

1.7 kg/m3 per mm of thickness.

Package

MapelasticSupplied in 32 kg sets containing 24 kg of component A and 8 kg of component B.

StorageComponent A for 12 months. Component B for 24 months. At a temperature not lower than 5 °C.

Kerabond

Special adhesive for laying tiles, mosaics, marble and porcelain stoneware.

Purpose

Internal and external cladding with ceramic tiles and mosaics of any floors, walls and ceilings;

Spot gluing of insulating materials (expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, glass - and mineral wool, wood concrete, soundproofing panels).

Typical Applications

Laying ceramic mosaics on paper or mesh backing, ceramic tiles made of red and white clay, unglazed tiles, single and double fired tiles, clinker tiles on:

- Conventional lime and cement plasters;

- Ordinary concrete slabs and reinforced concrete bases, provided they are sufficiently dry and cured;

Description

KERABOND- gray or white powder consisting of cement, graded sand, synthetic resins and special additives developed by MAPEI. When mixed with water, it forms an easily processed solution with low lumps. The high adhesive ability of KERABOND will allow you to cladding vertical surfaces without any problems - even heavy tiles will not slip or fall off. KERABOND hardens without noticeable shrinkage and becomes very durable after setting. KERABOND adheres excellently to all common building materials and is weather and water resistant.

Attention:

Some substrates require preliminary priming when using KERABOND:

For plaster walls(regular, panel, spray coated) and gypsum-containing plasters, use a primer
PRIMER G;

For anhydrite substrates - primer PRIMER S or MAPEPRIM SP;

When facing ceramic tiles:

Prefabricated reinforced concrete structures of industrial production;

Deformable bases made of asbestos cement, wood, etc.;

Seamless heated floors;

Aerated concrete also for laying:

Large format (more than 20 x 20 cm) ceramic tiles and natural
stone;

To lay KERABOND glass mosaic tiles, it is necessary to mix
water, and with ISOLASTIC latex additive.

Kerabond should not be used in the following cases:

For tiling plasterboard (use ADESILEX P22 or KERAFLEX) and metal surfaces (use KERALASTIC) with ceramic tiles;

For tiling deformable substrates with ceramic tiles (wood, asbestos cement, etc.);

For covering non-absorbent substrates with non-absorbent tiles - unglazed, single-fired tiles, earthenware, clinker, etc. (use KERAFLEX, KERAQUICK and GRANIRAPID);

For installations that require an adhesive thickness of more than 5 mm, ceramic floor tiles and natural stone(use KERAFLOOR).

Instructions for use

Preparing the base

All bases generally accepted in construction are suitable for cladding with KERABOND glue, provided that they are smooth, strong, solid and free from traces of loose plaster, mortar, grease, oil, paint, mastic, etc. The bases should not be subject to shrinkage or deformation. When covering cement screeds, it should be borne in mind that wet or incompletely cured cement will significantly increase the curing time of KERABOND adhesive. In hot weather, before tiling, moisten the sun-heated substrates with water.

Preparation of glue

Component ratio: from 28 to 30 parts of water per 100 parts of KERABOND, which corresponds to 7-7.5 liters of water per 25 kg of KERABOND white and about 6.5 liters of water per 25 kg of KERABOND gray. Mix KERABOND in clean water until a homogeneous mass free of lumps is formed. Leave the mixture to stand for 5-10 minutes and stir again.

Permissible application temperature: from + 5C to + 40C.

Applying glue to the base

Apply KERABOND to the base with a notched trowel; to select it and estimate the adhesive consumption, use the following table or perform the following test: lay the tile on a fresh layer of adhesive, press it and tear it off immediately.

The back of the tile should be covered with glue:

For interior walls and for areas of the floor with light foot traffic – approximately 2/3 of the surface;

For external tiled areas and floor areas with
heavy load from walking - 100% of the surface.

For good bonding of the glue to the base, lightly press it with the back of the spatula. Then “furrow” the surface of the adhesive with the comb side of the putty knife, creating an even layer appropriate for the type and size of tile.

Laying tiles

Pre-wetting the tiles is not required. But if the back of the tile is covered with dust, wash it with clean water. To ensure that the tile sticks well, press it firmly into the adhesive. At normal temperature and humidity, KERABOND applied to the surface to be coated is in working condition for 20-30 minutes. However, under unfavorable weather conditions (sun, dry wind, high temperature), as well as on highly absorbent surfaces, the working time can be significantly reduced, down to several minutes. To increase the working time of the glue, it is recommended to moisten the surface of the base before applying it. To assess the condition of the applied adhesive, periodically check whether a film has formed on its surface. If a film has formed, the dried glue must be removed and a fresh layer applied with a notched trowel. It is not recommended to wet the glue after the film has formed, because this creates a water-insoluble film that prevents adhesion. The tiles are leveled no later than 45-60 minutes after laying. Tiles should not be exposed to water for 24 hours after installation. Within 5-7 days after installation, the lined surfaces must be protected from direct sunlight and frost.

Joining seams

If chemical resistance is required, use KERAPOXY two-component acid-resistant compound. Expansion joints must be sized so that they are completely filled and retain elasticity.

Cleaning up glue

Hands and tools are cleaned with water. Wipe coated surfaces with a damp cloth. Water should be used to clean the cladding only a few hours after installation and in moderate quantities.

Package

KERABOND is supplied in 25 kg paper bags and cardboard boxes containing 4 bags of 5 kg.

Storage

KERABOND should be stored in a dry and warm place.

Isolastic

Elasticizing additive for cement-based adhesives.

Purpose

For mixing (instead of water or for mixing with water):

KERABOND – universal elastic dry adhesive for ceramic tiles of any type;

KERAFLOOR - dry adhesive for ceramic tiles and natural stone in cases where an adhesive layer thickness of more than 15 mm is required.

Product Description

ISOLASTIC is a mobile pinkish-white polymer emulsion of a very elastic polymer, which, when mixed with cement-based adhesives, provides the latter with good adhesion to all substrates, as well as elasticity and impermeability after setting. Priming the bases with a mixture of ISOLASTIC and KERABOND gives them additional water resistance and water resistance. In addition, the addition of ISOLASTIC to KERABOND lowers the lower operating temperature limit of KERABOND from -ZOS to -40C. In hot weather, the KERABOND+ ISOLASTIC adhesive system has a short “working time”, i.e. processing time of the adhesive applied to the base. At the beginning of the setting period, a film forms on the surface of the adhesive solution; in this case, the applied adhesive must be removed, mixed and applied again to the base.

Attention:

The time for complete curing of KERABOND+ ISOLASTIC adhesive systems under normal conditions is 2 weeks. If objects such as ceramic tiled swimming pools, tanks, cold storage rooms, etc. If you want to put it into operation faster, use GRANIRAPID - an adhesive with good elasticity and fast curing.

Contraindications for use

Never use KERABOND+ ISOLASTIC adhesive systems for:

Finishings with natural and artificial stone, in conditions of deformation,
caused by humidity (use GRANIRAPID or KERALASTIC);

Cladding made from varieties of marble or natural stone that are subject to
fading, i.e. formation of salt stains (use GRANIRAPID).

Instructions for use

Preparing the base

All bases generally accepted in construction are suitable for cladding with the KERABOND+ ISOLASTIC adhesive system, provided that they are smooth, strong, solid and free from traces of plaster, mortar, grease, oil, paint, mastic, etc., and are also well insulated from moisture penetrating from below. Precast concrete and cast-in-situ concrete must be cured for at least 3 months under normal conditions (+20C and 50% relative humidity). Gypsum-containing substrates (hand- and mechanically applied plasters, factory-made panels, etc.) must be completely dry, sufficiently hard and free of dust. Before laying, they must be treated with PRIMER G or PRIMER S primers. When facing cement screeds Keep in mind that a screed that has not fully set or is exposed to moisture from below will significantly increase the curing time of the adhesive.

Component ratio

25 kg KERABOND + 4 kg ISOLASTIC + 3-3.5 liters of water. The ratio of components is determined by the required degree of elasticity of the adhesive layer. If maximum elasticity is required, completely replace the mixing water with ISOLASTIC - ohm. Such cases are: flexible substrates (e.g. wood, asbestos cement), poured concrete substrates with a curing time of less than 6 months, substrates subject to strong temperature fluctuations, as well as cladding with large-format (more than 30 x 30 cm) tiles.

In cases where good elasticity of the adhesive on a moderately flexible base is required, for example:

Sufficiently cured concrete with a curing time of at least 6 months;

Facing with small-format tiles (mosaic, tozetti),

You can use a mixture of ISOLASTIC + water in a 1:1 ratio for mixing.

Package

ISOLASTIC is supplied in plastic canisters of 25 kg, 10 kg and 5 kg. and in packages of 1 kg.

Storage

Store in a dry place. Afraid of frost. The guaranteed shelf life is 24 months in original, unopened packaging.

Kerapoxy

Two-component acid-resistant epoxy joint compound for ceramic cladding

Purpose

· Acid-resistant joint filler for floor and wall ceramic cladding with joints from 3 to 10 mm;

Acid-resistant adhesive for quick laying of ceramic tiles

· Adhesive for laying natural stone, asbestos-cement, and other building materials

Typical Applications

Filling the seams of floor and wall ceramic cladding in baths and saunas;

Filling joints in containers containing aggressive substances

Fastening acid-resistant ceramic tiles, marble steps and window sills, precast concrete elements.

Product Description

KERAPOXY is a two-component product that contains epoxy resin, hardener, silica and special additives that allow it to be used on both horizontal and vertical surfaces; Easily apply to the surface and rinse it off with water while working. Within a few hours KERAPOXY cures without shrinkage, after which it has exceptional adhesion, good mechanical strength and chemical resistance. KERAPOXY is available in 24 colors.

Contraindications for use

Good adhesion of KERAPOXY to the joint walls is only guaranteed if they are dry and not contaminated with cement, dust, oils, grease, etc.

Preparing the base.

The seam must be dry, cleaned throughout its entire depth from traces of cement, grease, dust and other contaminants. The adhesive solution must be completely cured and dry. When filling, the seams must be dry.

Preparing the mixture

Both components are supplied in pre-dosed form. Add the hardener (part B) to the epoxy resin (part A) and mix the mixture thoroughly to form a smooth paste. The use of an electric stirrer is recommended.

Processing the mixture

The seam is filled with putty using a flexible metal spatula or a hard rubber float. For large volumes of work, KERAPOXY can be applied with a syringe filled directly from the container.

The room temperature significantly influences the curing time of KERAPOXY. The optimal temperature for use is 20°C, the paste is soft and easily processed within 45 minutes, and the surface is ready for pedestrian traffic after 24 hours. As the temperature decreases, the characteristics of KERAPOXY change; at 15°C, walking is allowed only after 3 days. At 20°C, chemical exposure can be exerted after 4 days, at 15°C only after 10 days. At a temperature of 10°C, the paste is viscous, difficult to mix and apply, and the curing time is excessively long.

Cleaning the cladding

After filling, floors and walls must be immediately cleaned of KERAPOXY residues with a hard sponge and water until completely removed, without allowing the putty to be washed out of the joints. Then remove excess water. If soiled, change the sponge promptly. Remove liquid residues with a soft rubber scraper.

Attention:Never use water or solvents to reduce the viscosity of KERAPOXY!

Plastering work helps to level the pool bowl before further finishing, for example - tile materials. However, the quality and durability of the entire finish, as well as the structural strength of the artificial reservoir bowl, largely depend on how the hydroresistant plaster is selected and correctly applied

• 1 How to properly plaster a pool room
• 2 Stages of finishing walls in a room
• 3 Works in the pool bowl
  • 3.1 What is the purpose of carrying out the work?
  • 3.2 Plastering on mesh
  • 3.3 Adhesive plaster
• 4 Making hydrophobic plaster with your own hands
• 5 Conclusion

1. How to properly plaster the pool area

Due to difficult climatic conditions in our country, swimming pools are often built not in the open-air courtyard, but indoors. And finishing the inside of such premises very often involves plastering work, especially if it is necessary to level the walls. In this case, cement-based compositions intended for use in bathrooms and other wet areas are suitable.

Thus, walls can be treated with ceresit (Ceresit CR 65), which is a cement mixture intended for all types of stone foundations (brick, concrete). There are a lot of types of Ceresit plaster, like Knauf, and their detailed analysis is worthy of a separate article. If you want something with decorative effect, then you can use STUC DECO or STUC GRANITO products. These compositions have polymer binders, which allows them to be elastic. Naturally, the cost of such plaster is extremely high, and not everyone can afford such finishing.

2. Stages of finishing walls in a room

• The surface is cleaned of uneven surfaces and, if necessary, cracks are repaired. All loose elements must be dismantled. The wall is cleaned of dirt, dust and grease stains;
• As a way to improve adhesion, the surface is primed;
• A leveling layer of plaster is applied. It is ideal to use a cement-based composition of the M150 brand. The layer depends on the parameters of the base. In the case of very uneven walls, it may be necessary to apply a thick layer along the beacons;
• After complete drying, it is carried out final finishing, either a moisture-resistant finishing layer, or rubber paint, or tile material.

3. Work in the pool bowl

In one of the previous articles, we examined in more detail the process of completely finishing the bottom and walls and an artificial reservoir, starting from arranging the bowl and laying insulating materials and ending with the final finishing. Here we will take a closer look at plastering work, in which, unlike walls, a different type of composition will be used. If the walls of the room were sufficiently treated with a material resistant to high humidity, then in the pool we will use hydro-resistant plaster, which must also withstand the pressure of large volumes of water.

3.1. What is the purpose of carrying out the work?

• After constructing a bowl of brick or concrete, the latter often cannot be perfectly level for subsequent tiling;
• Plaster with hydrophobic properties prevents moisture from penetrating into the structure reinforced concrete structure bowls;
• IN winter period In the absence of water, the walls of the pool can become very frozen. A layer of plaster will partially protect against this.

3.2. Plaster on mesh

Most affordable way finishing of the pool bowl. The process uses the cheapest cement composition, which is additionally reinforced with a metal mesh. The end result is very durable. plaster layer, which, however, has mediocre durability. It's all about the metal mesh and dowels with which we attach it to the concrete base. Under the influence of corrosion, not only the mesh and fastening materials can fail, but also the internal fittings of the pool, since moisture can penetrate inside through the holes for the dowels. However, this method is used quite widely. The process itself goes as follows:

• The surface of the bowl is thoroughly cleaned, and the cracks in it are repaired. You can use waterproof expanding cement (WEC) for this;
• A metal mesh is installed, attached to dowels, installed in increments of approximately 40 centimeters in a checkerboard pattern;
• The prepared mixture begins to be applied to the mesh manually or automatically (gunning);
• After application, the solution is left to dry for a day, then primed, a finishing layer is applied and the final finishing begins.

3.3. Adhesive plaster

In the case of this composition, the installation of a mesh is not required, and the adhesion of the layer to the wall is achieved due to the high adhesion of the finishing material, as well as the additional application of impregnation that increases adhesion. In this case, the concrete surface itself can be pre-coated with small irregularities, since the finish is attached more reliably to the rough base. The process itself is divided into the following steps:

• After thoroughly cleaning the surface (and, if necessary, applying notches), treatment is carried out with adhesive impregnation, which must be allowed to dry completely. Drying time should be checked on the packaging;
• The leveling layer is applied using standard tools in one or several layers. In this case, each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has dried;
• In order to improve the waterproofing qualities of the plaster, it is recommended to apply a layer of waterproofing mixture before further finishing.

Important! When working with adhesive composition durability and quality are guaranteed only if all operating parameters are fully observed. Therefore, such finishing must be carried out very carefully, having fully studied the manufacturers’ recommendations.

4. Making hydrophobic plaster with your own hands

If the necessary components are available, such compositions can be manufactured directly on the job site. Two parts of pozzolanic cement and one part of sand are taken, after which a number of additives are added. Thus, foaming agents help increase water resistance. Ceresite, stone or sand flour, as well as bitumen-based emulsions make the composition more dense and resistant to external pressure exerted by water. Well, plasticity can be increased by adding rosin soap or wood pitch (a sedimentary product formed during the distillation of tree resin).

5. Conclusion

In general, finishing a pool is a process in which full compliance with technology and care is extremely important. For this reason, if you lack experience in any finishing work, as well as lack confidence in your abilities, you should entrust the process to specialists with good reviews. Otherwise, the consequences will be extremely difficult and expensive to eliminate.

• When plastering a building, synthetic mesh is used instead of metal reinforcement, and iron dowels are replaced with glass ones. In addition to synthetic reinforcement, glass mesh is also used. These materials do not rust, so they do not have a destructive effect on the plaster. Some problems arise when using glass nails, so they are practically not used in the construction of private pools.

• Cement-polymer mixtures are modern look materials that can be used to finish concrete pool bowls. These compositions have high strength and increased adhesion to the concrete surface. Thanks to the new mixtures, the surface becomes perfectly even. After using them, you can start decorative finishing pool walls.

Preparation of plaster for the pool

Cement-sand plaster has greater porosity compared to concrete. Therefore, in the future, moisture will still penetrate to concrete base bowls. From this moment we can consider that the process of destruction has begun.

The fact is that in any concrete coating there are small cracks in which moisture accumulates. IN winter time year it freezes and the destructive effect begins. Despite the fact that the complete collapse of the structure will take several years, it is still better to prevent it. Let's look at some pool plasters that you can make yourself.

One option is waterproof plaster, which you can make yourself. To do this, you need to prepare such components as Portland cement M400, quartz chips and additives - liquid glass or superplasticizer.

Advice! The last substance is diluted with water in a proportion of 1/5 - 1/10. The resulting solution is added to the cement-sand mixture and mixed well using a mixer.

Three more additives: ceresite, calcium nitrate, sodium aluminate. Solutions are prepared from them in a ratio of 3 - 10%. The plastered surface is not susceptible to the aggressive action of any substances except phosphoric and fluoric acids. The superplasticizer is diluted with water and added to the mixture. However, the proportion is considered difficult to guess.

There are also mixtures that have a water-repellent effect. It is recommended to purchase such materials in a specialized store. If you want to prepare such a mixture yourself, you should purchase special cement in advance - VRC and quartz sand.

The solution is mixed in a standard proportion: cement - 1 part, sand - 3 parts. In addition, additional elements are introduced into the mixture - 2% of the total mass of the solution. An aqueous solution of sodium siliconate is mainly used as additives with water-repellent properties.

Important! To prepare this composition, use only quartz sand with a fraction of 1.2 mm. Before use, it is better to sift it to prevent foreign impurities of various substances.

Surface preparation

Before you begin finishing the concrete surface of the pool, you must carefully examine it. It is recommended that this procedure for examining the structure be entrusted to specialists. Especially if the structure was created not by your own hands, but by professionals.

It is important that the surface is smooth and that there are no cracks on it. With a thorough inspection of the walls, cracks can be identified independently. But in oval and round buildings it is very difficult to measure the evenness of the surface. Rectangular or square bowls are another matter: here it is much easier to determine the evenness of the walls.

The next stage is preparing the pool surface. The concrete base should be cleared of all debris and dust. Then treat it with a primer mixture, and be sure to penetrate deeply. It is able to penetrate deep into the concrete, resulting in a decrease in the material’s ability to absorb moisture.

Plastering procedure

Apply a layer of moisture-repellent mixture to the surface of the bowl. After the plaster has completely dried, you need to grout it. Now you can apply the second layer, the height of which will be 1-2 mm. This layer should give the surface a perfect smoothness. Be sure to let the plaster dry thoroughly.

When the solution has finally adhered, you can check the water-repellent property of the walls. To do this, you need to moisten them with water. If the work is done well, the surface will not darken, and droplets of water will roll down.

When using a plaster mesh, it is applied to the surface immediately after cleaning the pool walls. They attach it to the base using stainless steel fixtures, after which they begin plastering. This procedure can be seen in the video. Just like in the first case, after applying a layer of the mixture, it is leveled and allowed to adhere. Then they begin to apply the finishing layer.

If you can ensure that the concrete base of the bowl is properly finished, you will have a quality pool that, if well maintained, will serve you for many years.

To cover the walls of the pool, mixtures with special additives are used. The same compositions are used for the floor. The result is a stucco finish that does not allow water to penetrate into the concrete base.

The last stage in pool construction is decorative coating. Today, the walls of the pool are decorated with materials such as PVC film, mosaic and glass tiles.

If you built a concrete pool, then you will have to finish its bowl. Finishing a pool is not a simple procedure, because the internal surface of the structure is constantly exposed to the harmful effects of water and additional hydraulic load. Therefore, it is important to buy suitable materials and apply a certain technology of work. Optimal options Pool finishes are PVC film, tiles and mosaics. Let's talk about this in more detail!

Pool plastering

Any casting of a pool bowl will not turn out to be perfectly level, so the first stage of finishing work is leveling the walls. IN in this case use the adhesive method of applying plaster or applying plaster over a mesh.

Plaster on mesh

Plastering on a grid involves the use of conventional sand-cement mixtures. However, these materials for finishing the pool do not provide reliable adhesion, which is why it is customary to first attach the steel plaster mesh and then apply the plaster. This method has its drawbacks: during the use of the pool, water can penetrate through the layer of plaster to the metal mesh, causing corrosion of the metal, and the plaster can fall off along with the tiles.

Therefore, an anti-corrosion coating should be applied to the mesh, but, nevertheless, such an outcome is quite possible. To solve this problem, it is worth improving adhesion by creating a slightly rough surface of the pool bowl. You can use not steel, but glass or synthetic plaster mesh, as well as waterproof plaster mixtures that have good adhesion to concrete.

Applying plaster to glue

The adhesive method of applying plaster is as follows: before plastering, the concrete surface must be cleaned and treated with special impregnations that have deep penetration. Such impregnations contain different polymers: acrylic and epoxy resins, urethanes and others. They are capable of creating an adhesive layer to which the next leveling layer is glued.

There are certain requirements for the quality of plastering work performed. When plastering and finishing the pool, bulges, depressions and cracks are not allowed. Small irregularities, up to 1 millimeter in size, are allowed in quantities of no more than 2 pieces per 4 square meters X. Vertical surfaces can have deviations of no more than 1 millimeter per meter.

Pool finishing materials

An individual pool is usually finished with glass or ceramic tiles, PVC film or mosaic. It is very rare to find a finish natural stone, for example, marble. When choosing a color, preference is given to different shades blue and green colors, which create the impression of freshness and sea depth. The darker the color you choose, the deeper the pool will appear.

The design and finishing of the pool walls around the perimeter can be made from exotic breeds wood or coping stone. Plants around the pool should be planted in such a way as to create a protected area, the illusion of peace and the effect of privacy. You can decorate the pool with evergreens and bright ornamental shrubs. On one side you can make a Roman staircase that is immersed in water.

Tile

Tiles are installed differently in a swimming pool than in a bathroom. Here it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the mechanical effect of water on the material. The walls of the pool bend by several millimeters under the pressure of the mass of water. Thus, the tiles are laid at some distance from each other, and the grout and glue are chosen to be more elastic. Otherwise, when deflected, the coating will not withstand the upcoming load and, like the mosaic matrix, will become covered with microcracks.

You should use special porcelain tiles for finishing the pool, as they are more dense and have less water absorption than regular ceramic tiles for lining a bathtub. By the way, simple porous tiles quickly absorb water and become a breeding ground for algae and microorganisms.

Porcelain tiles are more frost- and heat-resistant, which is especially important for outdoor pools, have high plasticity and do not absorb dirt. It is customary to lay tiles with an anti-slip corrugated, rough surface next to the pool and in the area where it rises and descends.

Mosaic

Mosaic is considered a reliable, wear-resistant material suitable for lining a swimming pool. It is customary to buy glass or ceramic mosaic tiles for a pool for similar reasons to choosing porcelain tiles. Such a mosaic has a high density, practically does not get dirty and does not spread fungus. The principles for preparing the pool base for finishing with mosaics and tiles are the same.

Glass mosaic does not absorb water at all. The cost of such a mosaic is quite high. The impressive price of laying a pool with such material will be paid off over time by its excellent appearance and wear-resistant qualities. Mosaic for pools is good because it can be used to create any ornament and pattern. In addition, mosaics are easy to cover any curved surface and corners that are inaccessible to conventional tiles.

PVC film

Pools can be covered not only with mosaics or tiles, but also with PVC film. This material is lightweight, has good waterproofing properties and is reasonably priced. True, the film on the walls will not last forever; its useful life is approximately 7 years. It is best used for an indoor pool.

The thickness of the film is 1-1.5 millimeters and it consists of 4 layers, which contain, in particular, a durable layer of synthetic material - Kevlar or polyesterol. The film is resistant to chemicals and ultraviolet rays. The coating is not attractive to harmful microorganisms and is easy to clean.

The market of modern building and facing materials offers two types of film. Polyvinyl chloride film is made on the basis of plasticized PVC and has a special impregnation that protects the pool from the negative effects of fungus, bacteria and spores present in the water. Color palette is quite diverse, and you can choose the material in accordance with your fantasies and preferences.

Butyl rubber film is characterized by improved durability and ductility. It can be easily cut with scissors and glued together. This material is indispensable for large tanks, when strength comes to the fore. Butyl rubber film is not afraid of changing seasons; it tolerates fluctuations in temperature and pressure well, so it is ideal for working with any surface, even in harsh winter.

Do-it-yourself pool finishing

When the pool is built, a layer of plaster is laid using one of the above methods, a waterproofing layer is created and facing material You can start finishing it with peace of mind. Mosaics and tiles are laid almost identically, but working with PVC film, naturally, has its own nuances. Below is brief instructions on how to finish a swimming pool with your own hands.

Pool wall cladding

Typically, pool lining begins 1-5 days after plastering and applying a waterproofing compound. Mosaics and tiles must be laid using special adhesives or cement-sand mortar.

Cladding is usually done in horizontal rows, starting from the walls. Using a plumb line and nails, you need to install vertical beacons, and then hang a horizontal mooring cord made from ordinary fishing line along the upper edge. As you work, this line should be moved up row by row to control the straightness of the joints.

Adjacent tiles must be oriented with their entire plane along the vertical hanger and mooring cord; the tile should be lowered to the desired level by lightly tapping it with the handle of a spatula. The thickness of the facing seam is fixed with two steel pins or nails of the same cross-section. It is recommended to fill the joints with mortar only half the thickness of the porcelain tiles. After the row has been laid, you should attach a lath to the tile and lower it to the desired level.

If pattern and symmetry are important, then they start decorating the pool with their own hands from the middle of the row, and finish the row at the corners with halves or thirds of tiles. Although it is worth calculating the required number of full-sized tiles in a row from the very beginning of work. In this case, you won’t have to cut the material, and the pool lining will look neater. The joints that form between laid tiles are usually treated with frost-resistant and moisture-resistant grout, which matches the color of the tile or contrasts with it.

Pool bottom finishing

Laying the bottom of the pool requires special attention; it should be done at the corners of the triangle, and not in rows, or “in an envelope.” This applies to the case when the floor in the pools is not level, but has a certain slope towards the hole for draining the water.

If the drain hole is located in the center of the pool, then first it is worth identifying and marking the cut lines connecting the corners of the structure with the opposite corners of the drain hole. After carrying out such markings, the bottom will be conditionally divided into 4 triangles - the lining is made along them.

In each triangle, the laying of tiles begins with the wall row, without a slope. Next, it is customary to lay out a lighthouse row perpendicular to this row. Referring to the tiles in the lighthouse row, it is necessary to horizontally cover the surface of the triangle using incomplete tiles along the edges. Other triangles similarly begin to be laid out from the wall and lighthouse rows.

Finishing the pool with PVC film

It is customary to lay the film on carefully sanded surfaces, since otherwise it will rub off in uneven areas. First, a fastening strip should be attached to the surface of the pool with screws, which is a metal strip that is 2 meters long, 5-6 centimeters wide and 2 millimeters thick.

On one side, a plastic coating must be applied to the strip. The film is not glued to the surface, but is covered from the inside of the pool, pressing it tightly against the walls with water. If the bottom has a complex, uneven terrain, then installation of the film should begin from there. Geotextile is placed under the material - a polymer non-woven fabric that has a thickness of 0.5-1 centimeter. It can protect the film from condensation and damage. The edges of the film must be welded with hot air and rubbed with liquid plastic for complete sealing.

PVC film is also used when reconstructing an old pool or finishing a pool with your own hands, which is tiled and has problems with waterproofing due to the formation of cracks. In this case, the film is laid directly on the tile. In order not to overpay in the future for shortcomings and mistakes, we present to your attention a video on finishing a pool.

Thus, tiling a pool is a very labor-intensive process, which, despite this, is within the power of every avid and hardworking developer. After reading the article, you learned how to choose the right material for finishing, because there are many offered on the market various options, and how to lay the coating properly so that no water escapes. All you have to do is look at the photos of the pool finishing and you can start doing the work.

Your dream is a swimming pool personal plot began to be implemented. You have chosen a place for the pool, dug a pit, installed communications, and concreted the bowl. The most interesting thing is coming and creative work. After you have lined the concrete pool bowl on suburban area, proceed to finishing works. What does finishing a concrete pool bowl include? What types of finishes concrete pool most effective? Read here.

The most difficult and responsible stage self-construction, is waterproofing and interior decoration pool bowls.

Finishing a concrete pool begins with plastering. Its goal is to give the walls and bottom of the pool as smooth a surface as possible. After all, on a lumpy basis it is difficult to strengthen any Construction Materials when finishing. 1-2 small irregularities per 4 square meters are allowed. It is advisable that the unevenness be no more than 1 mm, otherwise the finishing materials will not lie tightly on the plastered surface, and this can lead to the finishing coming away from the surface of the pool literally after the first season of operation. Cracks or crevices are excluded altogether, since the vessel for filling with water must be as tight as possible and not subject to pressure large quantity water. Finishing concrete pools involves 2 main types of plaster:

• We plaster on the mesh;
• Using glue.

ADVICE! When using, they must be applied in two or even three layers.

The first plastering method:

1. We attach the mesh to the surface of the bowl with dowels. The quality of the mesh should be as anti-corrosion and waterproof as possible. Therefore, experts recommend glass or synthetic mesh (they have a high price, but guarantee the durability of the structure).
2. We provide maximum adhesion to surfaces, making the concrete surface rougher.
3. We use waterproof plaster mixtures.
4. Apply plaster to the mesh and level the surface.
5. Let the material harden.

When applying adhesive plaster, we use special impregnations, having first thoroughly cleaned the walls of dirt and any debris. After applying a special impregnation made from acrylic resins, urethane and other polymers, we apply a layer of the most special plaster, which contains an adhesive polymer.

In order to increase the waterproofing of a concrete bowl, special waterproofing substances, which are abundant in the building materials market, can be applied to the surface.

Plaster brand	Price
Ceresit	6.7$/25 kg
KNAUF	$6.25/25 kg
VOLMA	9$/30 kg
Vetonit	11.5$/25 kg
UMKA	17.5$/7 kg

Tips that should be used immediately during construction and can be applied during finishing work:

• use cement intended for the construction of hydraulic structures (grade NTs or GIDRO-S).
• use concrete grade M350 - M400. The frost resistance index is F200, and the water resistance index is W6. For greater reliability, it is better to use heavy types of concrete with plasticizers and hydrophobic additives.

The service life of the pool without repair work depends on the type of concrete. If the quality of the concrete is poor, then groundwater can have a negative impact on the outer surface of the bowl. Then it will be difficult to carry out repairs both physically and financially. You will need to dig it all up. Don’t allow this scenario to happen, do everything efficiently and follow the advice of professional builders.

Final finishing work

The last part of the finishing is the embodiment of all your design thoughts. After all, from exterior finishing depend not only performance characteristics finishing of the concrete pool bowl, but also its appearance, beauty, harmonious combination with the entire recreation area and with the site as a whole. Also, your pool should fit well into the composition of the house, fence and surrounding vegetation.

The choice of finishing materials is huge:

• Hydrofilm.
• Composite materials
• Polymer materials.
• Tile.

IMPORTANT! To ensure that the interior tiling of the pool does not fall off or collapse 2-3 years after installation, you should choose metal mesh with anti-corrosion coating. Fiberglass reinforcing mesh is considered a more reliable and durable option, but it costs significantly more than metal mesh.

Select the material not only by color, but also by strength, reliability, and environmental friendliness.

The most common finishing materials

The most popular finishing materials are:

1. PVC film.
2. Tiles: ceramic, porcelain, glass.
3. Mosaic.

The most cost-effective option is to finish the concrete pool bowl with PVC film. Its advantages:

• You can quickly tighten it without resorting to the services of specialists.
• Increases the tightness of the bowl.
• Keeps you warm.
• You only need a special welding machine.
• Variety of colors and shades.

PVC film also comes with a ribbed surface, which is best used when covering the bottom or steps of a pool. PVC film can be metallic, wood-like, blue or azure, like a sea wave. Therefore, the main thing is that the appearance of the pool satisfies your needs and harmoniously combines with the recreation area of ​​the site. Many people choose blue tones, this is justified, since the outer surface gives the water more blueness and transparency. Even if the water in the water supply is not very clear (and this happens in dachas), then blue-blue, azure colors are a salvation for the pool, so that it does not seem dirty or just a pond with swamp water.

Advantages of tiles:

• Easy to apply - just stick to a flat plastered surface.
• A huge selection of materials: ceramics, porcelain, art glass, mosaic.
• Wide variety of designs and colors.
• Good sealing of the pool.

IMPORTANT!If your pool has a complex shape, then a mosaic made of small porcelain or glass tiles is best for finishing. For ease of installation, each individual tile of such a mosaic is fixed on a small square of fiberglass mesh. These squares can be easily bent, cut for the right size, or fold at any angle.

I would like to highlight one of the shortcomings. Only a master can lay tiles professionally, so in order not to relay them after a year, use the services of specialists. If you decide to lay it yourself, then arm yourself with a level, ruler, rectangle and measure every cm so that there are no distortions and large distances between the tiles.

When choosing tiles, pay attention to:

1. Ribbed back surface - it will stick better to the walls and bottom of the bowl.
2. High percentage of water absorption.
3. Use expensive glue to seal the cracks.
4. For long-term use, use titanium grout.

It is found in city pools, in public pools at tourist centers and in holiday homes. This is a labor-intensive process that requires special skills and knowledge. But if you work hard, the mosaic finish will delight you:

• Durability.
• Environmentally friendly
• Beauty.
• Durability.
• Reliable operation.

IMPORTANT! Natural or glass mosaic has different thicknesses, the minimum of which is0.5 cm. However, mosaics with such a thickness should not be used to decorate the floor surface or at the bottom of the pool, since it is not able to withstand the weight of water in the tank.

Among the main disadvantages, one can highlight the considerable financial costs for the material itself and for specialists. Also, many people do not like mosaics because they seem to be bureaucratic, that is, they are strongly associated with sanatoriums, children's institutions and even hospitals. Also, laying a mosaic around the perimeter of the entire pool is difficult and time-consuming. If you already want to swim in a new pool, then it’s easier to glue a hydrofilm, which will be acceptable in color and will not require much time for finishing work.

Particularly durable, but expensive

If funds allow and you want something unique and inimitable, then you can use especially durable materials for finishing: film with the addition of Kevlar and polyesterol. These films are in one of its 4 layers. This film is easy to clean and has antibacterial properties; it is resistant to chemicals and ultraviolet rays.

There are also special types of films - polyvinyl chloride models - they are treated with a special impregnation, which prevents the formation and reproduction of:

• fungi;
• microorganisms;
• bacteria;
• dispute.

IMPORTANT!Polymer pool films can be used for both indoor pools and outdoor pools. They talk about it specifications. But still, you should not use PVC films for finishing outdoor pools. Since in this case the service life is reduced to 7 years, while the service life of the film indoors is about 20 years.

Butyl rubber film is in demand on the finishing materials market; it is distinguished by its ductility and durability in use. It is also easy to use, you can even cut it with simple scissors and then easily glue the parts together. It is absolutely not susceptible to temperature changes and can also serve during frosts.

Choose a color scheme

Any finishing materials have a huge selection of colors and patterns. You yourself determine which tones are close to you in the pool area. As a rule, swimmers, without leaving home, choose blue, white, and emerald tones. Dolphins, fish, mermaids, frigates and boats are used as designs. This is understandable; the water surface of a backyard pool should be associated with the depths of the sea and summer holidays on the seashore.

Dark tones somehow do not harmonize with the bright summer colors and seem to be dissonant with them. Although there are areas where contrasting tones are present - and this is not an accident, but a conscious choice of the owner, who likes everything unusual and avant-garde. After all, as you know, there are no comrades according to taste and color.