Where should you start laying tiles in the bathroom according to the construction rules - this question worries many novice craftsmen who do it themselves renovation work in the house. Finishing surfaces with tiles has its own subtleties and nuances, which relate not only to the order of work, but also to technology in general.

When tiling a bathroom, it is important to follow the correct sequence

Sequence of work

In order to carry out repair work correctly, first of all you need to find out the installation sequence tiles In bathroom. If in ordinary rooms the “top-down” principle is often used, here it is necessary to lay in the absolutely opposite way. The order of cladding changes and first of all you need to take care of creating a level floor. This is due to the fact that after applying a layer of mortar, both the walls and floor will change their level.

Once the floor is completed, you can begin finishing the walls. In this case, work is performed from the bottom up. In order for the coating to look attractive and not contain cut elements in visible areas, it is recommended to identify the position of the rows in advance and begin installation work from the second lane.

If you plan to tile a bathtub or remove borders, then finishing the walls can be done in two ways: from the border up the wall or from below using the standard method. The first option is more preferable.

The correct sequence of laying tiles in the bathroom: first of all, the floor is tiled and only then the walls

The sequence of tiled cladding in relation to a specific plane is considered separately. The location of furniture and plumbing is also taken into account. In some cases, you can save money and leave, for example, the walls behind the bathroom uncoated.

Layout diagram and marking

Before you start laying tiles on the walls or floor in the bathroom, you need to decide on the layout design and find out where the finishing elements will be located. To do this, it is recommended to initially work out the design on paper. When drawing up drawings, the scale and exact dimensions of the tiles are taken into account. This way you can clearly assess the situation and make the necessary adjustments.

Once the project has been developed, you can begin marking the work site. First you need to determine the perimeter of the floor. The lines must be straight so that distortions can be eliminated in the future. For marking, it is best to use a laser level or a thread treated with chalk; it is applied to concrete surface and thus mark the contours of the cladding.

The most common layouts for laying tiles in the bathroom

To mark the walls you need to use the tiles themselves. Apply it to the wall without mortar, moving from top to bottom and marking the position of each tile. This way you can determine the starting point of the masonry. The bottom row will be laid last of the threaded elements.

Floor covering

Since renovation work begins from the bottom up, first of all, you need to tile the bathroom floor. You can start working according to one of the following principles:

• From farthest visible angle. This traditional method. In this case, the first cladding element is laid from the most visible point, that is, from the corner that is located opposite the wall with the door. If this area is closed by a bathtub or shower, the feasibility of this principle is partially lost.
• From the threshold. This is the most common method. In this case, the process of laying tiles begins from the corner closest to the door. The rationality of using this method is determined by the fact that the back part of the bathroom is hidden by plumbing.
• From the center mark. This method is used extremely rarely and is more suitable for spacious bathrooms with an open central area. In this case, furniture and plumbing fixtures should be located along the walls in order to, if possible, hide the cut elements. The center of the bathroom is determined by marking. You need to determine the center of each wall and draw lines along these points. At the intersection, the central joint of the four tiles will be located, from which they begin laying.

Basic principles of laying tiles on the floor

Wall decoration

Technology also has its own subtleties. In order to better understand how to lay tiles correctly, you should consider in more detail the methodology and sequence of work. Laying technology ceramic tiles assumes the following stages:

1. To begin, outline the approximate position of the side elements, taking into account the space between the seams.
2. Determine the position of the bottom line of the second row and fix a wooden plank in this place, metal corner or a profile in such a way as to create a straight line indicating the beginning of the masonry. This strip will allow you to maintain an accurate level when laying and will prevent the tiles from slipping.
3. Mix the adhesive solution and let it sit for 10-15 minutes.
4. Apply the adhesive to the wall using a notched trowel. Reverse side The tiles do not need to be processed.
5. Place the tile in the intended place and press lightly.
6. After fixing the second element, insert a plastic cross at the joint to adjust the thickness of the seam.
7. Tap the tiles with a mallet and check that they are level.
8. Move up in rows, in some cases it makes sense to work in parallel with two lanes.
9. First, lay out the whole elements, and then cut the missing pieces.
10. Every 4 rows, let the tile dry a little and set.
11. The bottom row is laid last, after the top has dried and the support strip can be removed.

This technology is also used in the arrangement kitchen apron, cladding of building facades, etc.

When tiling walls, laying tiles begins from the second bottom row in the upward direction

Processing seams and eliminating defects

After the surfaces have dried, you can begin sealing the seams. It is done after the tiles have been completely laid and the adhesive has been removed. For this purpose, special grout mixtures are used. It is recommended to pre-moisten the joints with an antiseptic.

The grout is applied with a rubber spatula or using a construction syringe; it looks like a confectionery syringe; it can be made from a plastic bag. The latter method is especially relevant for working with epoxy mixtures; they are more viscous, and therefore it will be quite difficult to carefully tuck them into the space between the tiles with a regular spatula.

The last step in laying tiles in the bathroom is grouting.

The joints between the plumbing and the tiles must be treated with sealant. Additionally, corners and chipped areas are worked out in the same way. Using mastics you can mask small defects and visually adjust the width of the seams.

You can hide the joints between the floor and the wall, as well as tiles and plumbing, using a plinth or decorative strip. They are attached last with sealant.

After laying the tiles and grouting the joints, be sure to wash the surface of the tiles with a soft sponge. This way you will clear it of any remaining building materials. For shine, treat the tiles with glass cleaner.

The process of laying ceramic tiles in a bathroom takes on average 3-4 days. This will be enough to prepare work area, tile the surfaces, let them dry and seal the seams between the elements. If you follow the correct sequence of laying the tiles, you will be able to minimize defects and create a smooth surface.

Finishing a bathroom, kitchen or other wet rooms with tiles is one of the best options in terms of ease of use, ease of cleaning surfaces and durability. However, a guaranteed result can only be obtained if the surfaces to be finished are properly prepared and the tiles are carefully laid on the walls.

The stages of surface preparation vary depending on what room is planned to be finished, the state of the work front and how long-lasting and high-quality the result is required. Main stages:

It should be noted that in old buildings with sufficient room size, leveling is faster and better done using plasterboard. This is due to the insufficient strength of old walls and the difficulty of dismantling and/or leveling them. The same applies to new buildings with uneven walls made of brick, foam or aerated concrete. If the space of the bathroom or kitchen is not enough and does not allow you to “steal” up to 15...30% of the area with plasterboard structures, the best option is with a relatively thin layer of plaster.

Interesting: both for insufficiently strong walls and for partitions (floors, walls, ceilings) made of plasterboard or wood, it is advisable to strengthen the surface under the tiles. To do this, a reinforcing mesh is placed under the layer of plaster (putty). Drywall works best with the polypropylene version of the mesh, brick and wood, old plaster partitions with metal.

Required tools and materials

Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands requires a fairly large set of tools. First of all this:

1. tools for cleaning the wall - chisel or chisel, spatulas different sizes and shapes, hammer. To speed up the work (if you do not need to keep the old finishing material intact), you can use a power tool with a chisel attachment or a jackhammer or hammer drill;
2. devices for final cleaning of the surface - brushes, rags, rollers, etc., allowing you to remove dust and dirt. A spray bottle is convenient for quickly moistening the surface;
3. depending on the leveling method - plaster or drywall - an appropriate set of tools and materials (they are discussed in more detail in the articles "" and "");
4. spatulas, rollers and brushes for putty and primer, suitable containers for solutions;
5. tile cutter or other tool for cutting tiles;
6. spatulas for applying tile adhesive (mortar);
7. soft or hard (depending on the technique) spatulas for grouting tile joints.

The materials required for cladding are divided into:

• facing - tiles, glue or mortar for laying them, grouting composition, as well as additional elements decoration or protection (for example, protective covering based on acrylic or silicone);
• preparatory - depending on the chosen option for leveling the walls, plasterboard with the appropriate mounting profile and fasteners, or cement-sand (cement-polymer) mortar for plaster. Required on the list preparatory materials can be considered products for fungicidal, bactericidal and moisture-proof treatment of surfaces, as well as putty and primer.

Tile adhesive

Depending on the operating conditions, type of base and finishing material, as well as the volume of work and skill of the performer, choose various options compositions for fixing tiles. It is based on Portland cement with various modifying additives or polymers. Latex particles are often used as such additives. Diluted in accordance with the instructions.

1. Universal. Suitable for any conditions, but preferably used for relatively light tile materials on dry surfaces not subject to active mechanical and thermal stress.
2. Moisture resistant. Contains moisture repellent additives. Suitable for surfaces in contact with water (laying tiles in the bathroom), including for outdoor use.
3. Reinforced. Used for installation of stone slabs and other particularly heavy or mechanically stressed materials.
4. Polymeric. Only applicable for interior work in rooms with stable humidity and temperature.
5. Specialized. This group includes compositions for installing tiles on plasterboard, wood, “warm floors”, for outdoor work in harsh climatic conditions, for cladding stoves and fireplaces, and so on.

When preparing the tile composition, it is important to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and not add more or less water to the dry mixture than indicated. It will be difficult to work with the liquid mass; already laid tiles may “crawl”. A mixture that is too dry hardens too quickly, preventing the cladding from being fully leveled.

To mix the composition, use a special construction mixer or a spiral attachment on a drill.

Stages of work

To figure out how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom, it is important to understand the sequence of operations and carefully study the installation technology.

On walls free of plumbing fixtures and built-in furniture, installation begins from the floor (on the wall) or from the far corner (for the floor). A preliminary marking is carried out, the so-called “layout drawing”. It can be complete, with the designation of all elements (especially if the tile laying design is complex, with shaped fragments) or partial - with the marking of “guide” lines. If you plan to install any equipment or furniture, the markings determine their position. Accordingly, installation starts from the level of the bathtub (shower stall) or built-in kitchen furniture.

Finishing corners has its own specifics. For internal corners, use the method of trimming the edges diagonally, simple joining (if the design allows it) or joining using an insert corner.

How to beautifully decorate the inner corners of the tiles is described in the following video:

The same goes for external corners. Here, simple joining is rarely used; stitching at an angle of 45 degrees or special trim inserts made of plastic or metal are usually used. They are also used to create a neat joint between walls and floors.

Some manufacturers include corner elements in new collections. They only fit outside corners and usually have unequal shelves. This type of tile is especially convenient for cladding steps.

So, after preparing the walls (floor), the sequence of operations is as follows.

Where to start laying tiles in the bathroom: marking

This is done using a level and/or a plumb line (laser plane builder). The more accurately the horizontal and vertical lines are defined, the more correct the tile design will be. If for some reason the base line is slanted (for example, the bathtub needs to be installed on a slope), you should either compensate for the slope corner elements, or orient the entire drawing parallel to the baseline. Diagonal installation will help to successfully hide irregular geometry.

If you plan to do the masonry in separate fragments, first the large parts are marked, then the detailed ones are done fragment by fragment.

Pre-layout and trimming

It is advisable not to skip this stage, since it allows you to identify those elements of the pattern where trimming the tiles is required. Also, preliminary layout helps determine the required width of the seams. In small areas (the floor of a bathroom or toilet), increasing or decreasing the width of the seams is rarely rational. On large ones, due to correction, it allows you to get rid of cutting a whole row of tiles.

Special dividers – “crosses” for tiles – allow you to set the same width everywhere. By using different sizes, you can not completely adjust same size facing material.

Cutting tile materials is done with a tile cutter or grinder. On difficult lines or when insufficient material has been removed (uneven cut), additional processing with sandpaper or other abrasive may be required.

This video shows how to easily cut tiles with a grinder without dust at home

Preparation of the solution

It is not rational to mix a large volume of solution at the same time; it is better to do it in portions. In this case, the duration of storage of the solution depends on the composition of the mixture. Manual kneading is permissible only for very small volumes; for quantities greater than 3 liters it is advisable to use mechanical means for mixing.

Installation

Laying is done from the bottom up (on the wall) or from the far corner (laying tiles on the floor). In this case, glue (mortar) is applied to a limited area, and separators are immediately inserted between the tiles.

After installing several tiles in a row, their position is checked with a level and, if necessary, the height or placement is corrected. This can be done with a hammer or at the same level - by pressing or tapping.

After installation is completed, the adhesive (mixture) is given time to completely cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Important: when laying tiles in the bathroom, you must ensure that they are protected from water and atmospheric humidity! The wall cladding can be covered with film; when finishing the floor, it is advisable not to use the room until the solution has completely hardened.

Grouting joints

Some craftsmen, having figured out how to lay tiles in the bathroom, forget about the correct grouting technology. This significantly deteriorates the quality of the cladding, accelerates its destruction, and provokes the development of fungus and mold in the joints.

Depending on the thickness of the tile and the composition used (cement or polymer), grout can be applied using a regular or flexible trowel, sponge, or even just with your fingers.

In this case, the grout color is chosen either to match or darker than the main color of the cladding. The use of contrasting shades or very light grout material is undesirable, since it is very difficult to maintain its cleanliness during constant use.

Additionally, you can treat the seams or the entire finished surface (this is applicable for unglazed tiles) with sealant.

Conclusion

Having figured out how to lay tiles in the bathroom, you should not immediately begin large amounts of work. The best option for a “test of strength” - small surfaces with simple geometry, for example, the floor of a loggia or bathroom.

Many owners of apartments and houses try to do repairs themselves, without hiring hired specialists. Beginning craftsmen who have no experience in finishing work need detailed instructions By correct installation DIY bathroom tiles.

The layout of the tiles is the first thing that is decided upon after selecting and purchasing tiles. In most ceramics collections, designers offer options for the arrangement of main tiles, panels, borders and decors. But each owner strives to individualize the home, so he finds his own layout options that best suit the given room and its interior.

At wrong choice pattern of the facing covering, laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands will be complicated by numerous trimmings of the tiles. A beginner can make one mistake: start the layout from any of the corners of the room. In this case, the opposite one may have a piece of tile whose width is less than ½ of the whole tile. This narrow line will bring disharmony to the design of the bathroom.

Correct options layouts:

• The first tile is placed in the middle of the wall. Whole elements are also installed on both sides of it until they reach the corners.
• If, when using the first method, narrow undercuts remain in the corners, not one, but two adjacent tiles are laid in the middle of the wall. With this layout, it is much more convenient to correctly position the panels or decorative lines.
• If it is not possible to avoid narrow stripes in the corners of the room, choose the pattern “ brickwork».
• Also, rows of tiles can be laid with an offset of 1/3 in each next row. This pattern looks impressive on large areas.

The layout can be vertical or horizontal. The most acceptable option is selected based on several criteria:

1. tile sizes;
2. tile pattern;
3. room dimensions.

With a horizontal layout, it is easier to avoid numerous tile trims. If there is a ledge in the bathroom on which only one tile fits and there is still a small space left, you need to do the following: take 2 elements and cut them so that the seam between them runs along the center of the ledge on the wall.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

A DIY room begins with drawing up a work plan and preparing tools. It is important to decide when the bath will be installed: before or after laying ceramics on the walls. The complexity of finishing work largely depends on this. Craftsmen recommend installing plumbing equipment after finishing work. In order to do everything correctly, follow the further instructions.

Preparing the premises

Installation of tiles requires preparation of the base. All old finishing in the room is removed and plumbing is dismantled. Clear the room of trash. The walls and floor are leveled as much as possible. If there are cracks, cook cement-sand mortar and cover them up. The floor is leveled using special mixtures, which will make installation easier flooring. When the mixture dries, apply a primer in 1-2 layers.

Preparation for laying tiles can be done by installing a plasterboard wall. This method is advantageous in obtaining a plane onto which it is easy and simple to stick the cladding. In this case, the glue consumption will be small, since there is no need for additional leveling.

Tile adhesive consumption calculator

Product	Tile adhesive UNIS 2000 / UNIS 2000 (25 kg) Tile adhesive UNIS PLUS / UNIS PLUS (25 kg) Tile adhesive UNIS XXI / UNIS XXI (25 kg) Tile adhesive RUSEAN FIXATOR (25 kg) Leveling tile adhesive OSNOVIT MASTPLIX AC12 T (T -12) (25 kg) Quick-hardening tile adhesive OSNOVIT SCORPLIKS T-15 (25 kg) Tile adhesive OSNOVIT STARPLIX AC11 (T-11) (25 kg) White tile adhesive with enhanced fixation OSNOVIT BELPLIX AC17 W (T-17) (25 kg ) Gray tile adhesive with enhanced fixation OSNOVIT MAXIPLIX AC16 (T-16) (25 kg) Tile adhesive OSNOVIT BAZPLIX T-10 (25 kg) Elastic tile adhesive OSNOVIT GRANIPLIKS AC14 (T-14) (25 kg) Effective tile adhesive OSNOVIT MASTPLIX AC12 (T-12) gray (25 kg) Plaster-adhesive mixture OSNOVIT KAVERPLIX TS117 (T-117) (25 kg) Tile adhesive ECO Basic (25 kg) Adhesive for tiles and porcelain tiles VETONIT EASY FIX / VETONIT EASY FIX (25 kg) Adhesive for tiles and porcelain stoneware VETONIT PROFI PLUS (25 kg) Adhesive for indoor tile work VETONIT OPTIMA (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL K17 / LITOKOL K17 porcelain stoneware (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL K47 / LITOKOL K47 (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOFLEX K80 / LITOKOL LITOFLEX K80 facade (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOFLEX K81 / LITOKOL LITOFLEX K81 (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOFLOOR K66 / LITOKOL LITOFLOOR K66 for thick-layer porcelain stoneware (25 kg) Slab adhesive face-to-face LITOKOL LITOPLUS K55 / LITOKOL LITOPLUS K55 white (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOSTONE K98 / LITOKOL LITOSTONE K98 (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOSTONE K99 / LITOKOL LITOSTONE K99 white ultra-fast setting (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL SUPERFLEX K77 / LITOKOL SUPERFLEX K77 for large-format heated floors (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL X11 / LITOKOL X11 for swimming pools (25 kg) Tile adhesive IVSIL TERMIX / IVSIL TERMIX (25 kg) Tile adhesive VOLMA CERAMIC PLUS (25 kg) Glue for white marble. glass and mosaics PERFEKTA / PERFECTA HARDFIX WHITE (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles PERFEKTA / PERFECTA SMARTFIX (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles and laying porcelain tiles on the floor PERFEKTA / PERFECTA STARTFIX (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles. porcelain tiles and stone PERFEKTA / PERFECTA SMARTFIX PLUS (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles. porcelain stoneware and natural stone PERFEKTA / PERFECTA MULTIFIX (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles. porcelain tiles and natural stone PERFEKTA / PERFECTA MULTIFIX WINTER (25 kg) Adhesive for porcelain tiles. natural stone and clinker tiles PERFEKTA / PERFECTA HARDFIX (25 kg) Adhesive for porcelain tiles. natural stone and clinker tiles PERFEKTA / PERFECTA HARDFIX WINTER (25 kg) Glass adhesive. Mosaic and Stone Perfekta / Perfect multifix white (25 kg) Mounting glue for thermal insulation of Perfekta / Perfect ecotek (25 kg) Glue enhanced for ceramic border and ceramic tiles of Perfecta / Perfect Holder (25 kg) Elastic glue for natural stone and porcelab LINE ECOFLEX (25 kg) Adhesive for all types of tiles on complex substrates BERGAUF Maximum (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles BERGAUF Keramik (25 kg) Adhesive for large-format and heavy slabs BERGAUF Granit (25 kg) ) Adhesive for expanded polystyrene mineral wool and reinforcing layer BERGAUF Isofix / BERGAUF Isofix (25 kg) Adhesive on white cement for transparent tiles and mosaics BERGAUF Mosaik / BERGAUF Mosaik (25 kg) Reinforced adhesive for ceramic tiles BERGAUF Keramik Pro / BERGAUF Keramik Pro (25 kg)
Surface area m2
Layer thickness, mm.

Tools and materials

For beginning craftsmen, it is important to prepare everything in advance necessary tools and materials. At the stage of choosing a layout, the issue of the width of the gaps between the tiles is decided. Based on the choice made, crosses for seams are purchased.

Then you need to choose the glue for. For interior work, Ceresit SM11 is most often purchased. This mixture is great for beginners because it is elastic, mixes quickly and does not set within 10-15 minutes. This allows you to carefully align the tiles horizontally and vertically.

To perform finishing work in the bathroom you will need the following tools:

• drill or screwdriver;
• construction mixer;
• container for mixing the solution;

• tile adhesive in required volumes;
• spatulas: with metal toothed and straight blades, rubber;
• soft sponge;
• rags;
• roller or paint brush for applying primer;
• moisture-resistant soil;
• mallet;
• roulette;
• marker or pencil;
• bubble level;
• level;
• metal profile for working with drywall.

Dismantling the old coating

Replacing tiles begins with dismantling the old cladding. This is not always easy to do. The tiles can be firmly fixed to the wall and difficult to knock down with a hammer. In this case, a hammer drill is used and the intractable areas are destroyed. Remains of glue are removed with a metal spatula.

If the old tiles were laid a long time ago, there may be a metal plaster mesh underneath. Metal scissors are used to cut it.

Leveling surfaces

Preparation for laying the slab should begin with leveling the base. If, after dismantling the facing covering, deep cavities remain on the walls that require leveling, you can choose any of two options for further action:

1. buy plaster mixture and cover up the cracks;
2. cover the walls with plasterboard.

Each method has its own advantages. In the first case, if you do it yourself, you will not need the skill of working with gypsum boards. To level the walls, it is enough to properly prepare the plaster mixture and apply it with a spatula. Careful leveling is not required, as minor unevenness will be corrected using tile adhesive.

Proper waterproofing

During renovation, it is important to make high-quality waterproofing for the bathroom. The choice of materials that provide protection against moisture penetration is wide, these are:

• Coating mastics based on bitumen;
• Penetrating solutions;
• Rolled and adhesive waterproofing.

You can use the same or different mixtures for walls and floors. The floor needs to be insulated from water to a greater extent. Experts recommend choosing a special mixture for treating concrete that has penetrating ability:

1. "Penetron";
2. "Lakhta";
3. "Hydrosmile";
4. "Isoprone."

If the base is unstable, it is necessary to strengthen the joints of walls and floors, steps, and thresholds. To do this, elastic waterproofing tapes are laid. Their function is to prevent the formation of cracks. You can choose any of the following brands of tape:

• "Idrobuild Giuntoflex 120";
• "Litoband-R";
• "Coverband"
• Mapband.

Where is the best place to start?

Laying bathroom tiles with your own hands will be easier if you install metal profiles along the bottom line of the first row. They will serve as support for the tile and prevent it from slipping. In order to mount such a support line, it is necessary to correctly mark the walls.

Without a level (laser level), it will be difficult for a beginner to cope with this task. Proceed as follows:

1. measure the height of the corners of the bathroom;
2. find the lowest one and mark on it the place of laying the first tile (from the floor or from the bathroom level);
3. starting from this point, use a bubble level to draw horizontal lines along all the walls.

There are no rules regarding the choice of wall to start laying. Most craftsmen prefer to start working from the level of the bathtub, gluing tiles around the perimeter of the walls. After the glue has hardened, the metal profile that served as a support is dismantled and further finishing begins. Installing tiles over the existing first row will be easier.

We put the material

There are several ways to lay tiles, in which adhesive mixtures are applied:

• Only on the back side of the tile.
• On tiles and walls.
• Only on the wall.

The first option is acceptable for smooth walls and is beneficial due to low mixture consumption. The second method is used in case of height differences on the base. The adhesive layer will be thick and compensate for the shortcomings of the base surface. The third method is used by confident craftsmen with extensive experience.

Before finishing, you need to resolve the issue of moistening the tiles and walls. You can do both at the same time, and it will be best choice for porous tiles. When moistened, it will not draw moisture from the glue and the mixture will not dry out prematurely. If we lay porcelain stoneware or other tiles with low level water absorption, wetting of surfaces can be avoided.

When the first few tiles are glued, they are left until the composition sets. Then you should check the quality of adhesion of the tiles to the wall. If you are satisfied with the result, Finishing work continue. By analogy, you need to lay tiles in the bathroom on all walls. Installation of the floor cladding is done last.

Ceramic laying technique:

1. apply glue with a notched trowel;
2. apply the element to the wall and lightly press it down;
3. use a bubble level to check horizontal and vertical deviations;
4. tapping with a mallet, give the tile the desired position.

Grouting, calculator

At the final stage, the joints are grouted. For this purpose, special slow-hardening mixtures are used. Grout can be dry or wet. In the first case, you will need to prepare a working mixture by adding water to the composition.

The grout is applied with a rubber spatula so that the seams are well filled. An important point is smoothing with a damp sponge. This gives the seams a neat appearance. It is necessary to correctly calculate the required amount of material. If there is not enough grout to complete the job, there is a risk of buying an analogue from another batch, which will have a different shade of color.

Laying tiles in the bathroom has its own distinctive features and implementation methodology. In this article we will look at the main points of this process and define several important details and features when carrying out such repair work.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom is decided on its size, the number of transitions and the screen in front of the bathroom.

So all the work will be done in several stages:

Making a plan	First you need to do some calculations. To do this, we take measurements and select tiles. It can be of different sizes and you need to choose the optimal one. After all, waste must be kept to a minimum.
Material purchase	In this matter, it is necessary to take into account that in any case there will be waste. And this is at least 5%. Also, when purchasing, you should study the instructions for the material. There are usage options there. Also pay attention to the back side of the tile. It shouldn't be porous.
Preparing the plane	The plane must be level. Attention: Bathroom walls must be treated with antifungal compounds before laying tiles. If this disease occurs, then all the finishing will have to be removed. So prevention in this case is mandatory.
Facing	How to lay tiles on the walls in the bathroom will be described below. But don't forget that you must have all the tools. They will have to not only lay the tiles, but also cut them.

Laying tiles on the walls in the bathroom is also creative. So you will need to immediately create a pattern. The work management system will largely depend on this. Now let's take a closer look at how to lay tiles on a wall.

Preparatory work

Laying tiles on a bathroom wall begins with preparing the base plane. It is on this that the tiles will be glued in the future. It is necessary to make a special screen (usually plasterboard is used as the material for production).

The actions at the initial stage are always the same. It is recommended to install a bathtub and connect it to the sewer system. When installing, it is important to use a level so that it stands as level as possible, without tilting towards the drain hole.

Attention: Modern varieties The bathtubs are designed in such a way that they already have a special technological slope; it is for this reason that additional slope during installation is not required; it must be positioned strictly horizontally.

The construction of the screen can be carried out in several ways.

Using brick

To do this, you will need to cover the bath itself with material. It should be noted that the laying of bricks depends on its size (it can be done either only along the long side, or along the side and ends).

• Immediately before laying, it is recommended to mark the perimeter so that the side of the bathroom protrudes outwards, therefore brick partition will be located deeper by about a couple of centimeters.
• It’s okay if the protrusion is a little larger, it will only add space for the further plastering process (see). Work with brick will be carried out using the method of splitting it, since the material has standard dimensional characteristics.

Attention: In order for the splitting to take place fairly accurately, it is better to use a grinder and diamond discs. Even the resulting debris can be used without much difficulty.

When making masonry, it should be taken into account that the top rows are glued to the bathtub itself using a special tile adhesive. If you are creating a blind screen, you should leave a small hole for the feet in the central part of the bath, this will make it possible to have close access to it in the future. The same is done in this case, this will significantly increase the adhesion of surfaces.

Using drywall

The price of the material is not high, and you will get a smooth surface. Then laying tiles in the bathroom can be done with your own hands without any problems. And it will take much less time, unlike the first option.

• First of all, make the necessary marks using a level. It is enough to mark vertical lines along the edges that fit snugly against the side of the bath and place a few marks on the floor.
• Next, without rushing, you need to move the marking lines slightly deeper, making it partially recessed. After the tile installation process, you may notice that it will lose the ability to protrude. And it will be on the same level with the side.
• In order to correctly calculate the indentation, you should take into account the dimensions of the materials used. By adding up these indicators, the amount of required indentation will be determined.
• Next, attach the profile itself with dowels. The process of installing a CD profile begins with obtaining parts of the required length, after which it is inserted into an already fixed profile and secured with several self-tapping screws. To avoid deflection, it is better to secure it using wood wedges.
• The profile will be held firmly by gluing wedges to the side of the bathtub. At the final stage, the resulting frame must be sheathed with plasterboard; do not forget to pre-treat the ends with a sealant, which will subsequently repel moisture.

We also note that not only the above materials can be used to create a screen; foam blocks and sheets of plywood, which are characterized by increased moisture resistance, are also perfect.

Execution of cladding

The first step is to decide. What tiles will you use next? In most cases, the same option is used to decorate the screen as for finishing wall surfaces, but another type can also be used. The subsequent process consists of several stages.

Surface preparation

IN in this case You should adhere to several fairly important rules:

• When using brick, you should purchase light plaster, and after drying, apply primer;
• If the work is carried out using drywall, then it is enough to just prime it thoroughly. In this case, it is better to choose a primer so that it can repel moisture;
• To carry out the process of gluing the mesh onto the chipboard, use a special one; in this case, you need to apply a small layer of tile adhesive over the mesh.

Determining the tile layout

In cases where it is necessary to cut tiles, it is better to lay the cut layer where they will be least noticeable.

Choosing a tile laying scheme

• Place the horizontal row at the very bottom, and it is better to start marking from the side of the bathtub.
• As for the vertical row of those tiles. Which has been cut, its placement should be in the most inconspicuous corner.
• If, during the calculation, it turns out that the gap is too small, then it is better to start laying out from the central part, then the corners will be covered with tiles of equal size.

Laying tiles

This process also has its own specific rules of action.

Let's consider the main ones in order:

• It is better to start the work directly by preparing the glue; as a rule, it is sold in the form of a powder, which is recommended to be diluted with water, taking into account the required proportions - they are indicated on the packaging itself;

Making mortar for laying tiles

• The resulting mass must be applied to the surface of the screen, and it is better if this is an area small sizes, on which several tiles will fit, this is due to the fact that the glue has the ability to dry relatively quickly, and the leveling process is best carried out using a spatula with teeth;
• The tile should be attached only according to pre-made markings, and in order to clarify the correctness of its location, it is enough to lightly press on it;

Making the markings

• The glue is applied not only to the wall, but also to the tiles. After this, it is applied and pressed tightly, excess solution is removed. First, the row is laid out dry on the floor and tried on. After all, everything must fit perfectly. If the element does not fit, it is adjusted using a tile cutter or grinder.
• To maintain the masonry, the seam is determined using plastic crosses. Then the seam will be uniform.

• The rest of the tiles are laid out in the same way;
• After the glue has completely dried (no earlier than two days), it is recommended to rub the seams so that the surface is as tight as possible. If necessary, the seams can be further treated with silicone sealant.

This kind of design makes it possible to create not just a harmonious, but also an impeccable bathroom interior. It should be noted that this finishing option helps to hide from others appearance pipes and the surface of your bathtub.

The advice of specialists with considerable experience in this field of activity deserves special attention:

• The part under the bathtub can be removable and created using magnets, especially since this will make it possible, if necessary, to remove it without much difficulty;
• In the central part, do not forget about the hole for the legs, and it should be no more than 40 cm in length, and not exceed 15 cm in height.
• The screen should not be completely blank, since in the event of an emergency the entire structure will have to be completely disassembled;
• For frame more suitable metallic profile, characterized by increased strength;
• It is recommended to treat the resulting joint between the bathtub and the stove with a special grout or silicone.

The screen under the bathtub, decorated with tiles, is usually distinguished by its beauty and neatness. It not only makes it possible to isolate the unpleasant appearance of the area under the bath, but also significantly reduces the amount of time spent on cleaning.

Now you know how to properly lay tiles on a bathroom wall and you can do everything yourself. Before doing the work, watch the video in this article and photos, which will help you do everything as quickly as possible and without errors.

Often, those who decide to lay tiles themselves do not think about which side to start laying tiles on. And this is very important point.
Experienced craftsmen They know that if you start laying tiles in the bathroom or kitchen correctly, less material will be used, which means less money will be spent. The time for laying tiles will also be reduced and the design in the bathroom or toilet will look better.

By and large, the question: “Where should you start laying tiles” does not have a clear answer. But there are several points that help craftsmen determine which side to start laying tiles on.

First you need to decide on the sequence of laying tiles in the bathroom or kitchen. It is recommended to start laying tiles from the walls, and not from the floor, because... During work, the material the tiler is working with may fall from the walls and damage the new tiles on the floor. Another reason why installation should start from the walls is the drying time of the tiles. For the tile adhesive to set completely, you need to wait from several days to a week. During this time, you will have to stop repair work in the bathroom or toilet, and this is extra time.

Laying scheme

Before you start laying tiles in the bathroom or toilet, you need to decide on the location of the tiles. To do this, you should draw a design on paper and make the necessary calculations.

Next, you should make even markings on the wall, moving the tiles from top to bottom without mortar. It is necessary to mark the position of each tile, thereby determining the future position of the tile. The bottom row will be correctly laid out last of the cut pieces.

How to lay tiles on walls

Tiles on the walls begin to be laid from the corner that first catches the eye when entering the room, usually this is the opposite wall from front door. On the second row marked with a thread or level on the wall, you need to attach a strip, making sure that it is level. After which you can begin laying tiles on the wall.

To avoid the tiles slipping, you can lay out no more than two rows at a time. You can lay two rows of tiles on each wall and so on in a circle. While the row is being laid on one wall, it will already dry on the other. You need to start facing with intact elements, and the lower rows can be laid from damaged ones.

If a novice tiler wants to lay one wall after another, we can safely say that nothing will work out - the tiles in the corners will not fit together, and the seams will fluctuate from 3 mm to 3 cm, which looks very unsightly.

It should also be taken into account that if there are external corners in the kitchen or bathroom, then the tiles are laid from them, since it will not be possible to finish the row with damaged tiles on the external corner.

The bottom row should be placed last. Most often, when laying the bottom row, the tiles have to be cut. This is done with a special tool - a tile cutter.
Between each row of tiles in the bathroom or kitchen you need to place crosses - special accessories for working with tiles.

If glue is accidentally spilled on the finished work, it should be immediately removed from the tile to avoid hardening. After the laid tiles in the toilet or bathroom are completely dry, the entire lining should be wiped first with a damp cloth and then with a dry one. After which you can start grouting the joints.

Drawing on the wall

You should also take into account that if the owner is going to lay out a certain pattern in the toilet, then you need to start laying the tiles from the center of the image. If this is not done, the drawing may end up on the side of the wall.

To determine the center of the wall in the kitchen or toilet, you need to use a cord to set the diagonals, where the diagonals will intersect, there is the center of the wall.

You should start laying tiles from the center of the image and continue the row in one direction and the other from the center. After the central row is laid out, it will become clear where to move next and the work will go faster.

Laying tiles on the floor

Where to start laying tiles on the floor in the toilet?

1. There are three options with which experienced tilers begin laying tiles on the floor. Laying occurs from the farthest corner opposite the door. This standard way, which is suitable for laying tiles in the kitchen, but if in the bathroom this corner is closed by a shower stall, then there is no point in using this method.
2. Laying from the threshold at the door. In this case, laying the tiles begins from the corner that is closest to the door. This method is used most often, since plumbing is usually located on the opposite side.
3. Laying from the center of the room. Four tiles are placed in the center of the room, from which the flooring continues.

There is one simple way to determine which of the three options to use. You should measure the length of the row and divide the resulting result by the width of the tile. If the resulting remainder is less than half, then you should start laying the floor with tiles from the beginning of the row. This method not only saves material, but also the layout looks neater.

Before starting work, the floor is thoroughly cleaned and leveled. Next, you should create a waterproofing trough that will protect the floor from various kinds leak. To do this, use waterproofing - liquid or roll. The insulating layer is primed on top to increase the adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Grouting joints

You can grout the seams after the cladding is completely dry. All crosses should be removed and you can begin grouting.

The grout is matched to the color of the tile, diluted in water until homogeneous mass and apply evenly with a rubber spatula between the seams.

After some of the seams have been rubbed, it is necessary to wipe them with a slightly damp sponge so that the seams are smooth and beautiful.

Saving

Many people think about how to save money during renovations. The first thing you shouldn’t save on is the quality of the tiles, as in the future this savings can cost even more.

You don't have to place tiles where they won't be visible, for example, on walls where plumbing fixtures will be installed. Only in this case you need to remember that the walls will need additional protection from moisture - be sure to plaster, prime, and possibly paint.

Also, you don’t have to put tiles under the bathtub, especially if the entire space under the bathtub is covered with a screen. The floor, where there will be no tiles, should also be protected from moisture.