Modern interior apartments are very often combined with various elements: partitions, niches, columns, etc. Thanks to its widespread use in finishing works drywall, the creation of such structures does not cause difficulties even for people who have nothing to do with construction. All this can be easily done with your own hands, which only helps to increase the popularity of such design solutions.

The most popular among plasterboard structures are figured partitions.

This partition will help you:

• create a unique room design;
• visually and functionally divide the room into zones: kitchen, dining room, living room, etc.;
• create additional walls in which you can build niches or shelves. This will save space and make it more practical.

These advantages allow you to use even a small partition to shift the emphasis in the room, which will give you the opportunity to look at it from a new angle.

Structural solutions

A partition made of plasterboard can have different design elements. The most common types of plasterboard partitions are:

• curly. They are the most popular type. With their help, you can not only divide the room into zones, but also focus attention on certain aspects of the interior, thanks to different figures on the wall.
• semicircular. The semicircular design allows you to focus on the partition itself, since it itself acts as a decorative element.
• straight. Are the most simple option. Suitable for absolutely any room. Most often they have a purely practical function for dividing a room into certain zones.

In addition, any type of structure described above may contain the following elements:

• niches. They can be used to decorate a partition or for purely practical purposes - to place important things in everyday life;
• windows or openings. It is very convenient to pass food or other things through such walls. Very often used in kitchen partitions that separate the cooking area from the dining room;
• curly elements such as arches or rounded shapes. You can also make a relief design. They allow you to completely change the look of a room, change accents and completely change the perception of the room.

A partition made of plasterboard can also be:

• with backlight. Since it is quite simple to make additional lighting, this design is very common. There is always a place in the house that lacks sufficient lighting. By building a partition with lighting, you can easily solve this problem;
• without backlight. It is much less common, since with lighting you can achieve a much greater design effect.

The choice of design option for a plasterboard partition depends on the interior of the room, your desire, as well as the size of the rooms. Any of the above design options can be made with your own hands.

Design diagram

Any partition that is made of plasterboard must be pre-thought out. First you should do drawing or design diagram.
The circuit is created according to the following algorithm:

• draw on a sheet of paper the perimeter of the room in which the partition will be located;
• we determine the location of the partition, namely, which wall it will be placed on;
• indicate the dimensions of the structure - height, length and width.

Note! In order to provide for all the nuances of the upcoming work, two drawings should be created. On one you need to draw a partition in the room. On the second - only one partition in detail, indicating all the parts it contains: niches, shelves, lighting, as well as other figured elements.

To do this, in a separate figure:

• draw the planned partition to scale;
• mark the dimensions of the shelves or niches on the drawing;
• indicate the installation locations for additional lighting.

Based on the drawn drawing, you can easily and simply calculate the amount of materials required for the work. Having made an accurate calculation and indicated all the parameters on the drawing, it will be much easier to make a plasterboard structure with your own hands.

Tools needed for work

The following tools will help you quickly and efficiently make any plasterboard structure:

• hammer drill and drill with a set of drills;
• building level;
• pencil and tape measure;
• metal scissors;
• drywall knife;
• roller with needles;
• sandpaper.

You will also need the following materials:

• metal profiles - guides and racks;
• plasterboard sheets - moisture-resistant (if we are installing a partition in the kitchen or bathroom) or standard (if we are installing a partition in any other room of the apartment);
• self-tapping screws, screws and dowels;
• sickle tape;
• putty and deep penetration primer.

These tools and materials will help you create your own partitions that are unsurpassed in beauty and functionality.

Preparing for work

A figured partition for its installation requires preliminary preparatory work. At this stage you need to do the following:

• remove from the surface of the wall to which the partition will adjoin all irregularities, pieces of falling plaster, etc.;
• pull out nails and other elements protruding from the wall;
• prime the work surface;
• draw markings on the wall, floor and ceiling for attaching guide profiles to it;

Necessary tools

Now everything is ready to begin construction of the metal frame.

Making a frame

The frame for the partition is made with your own hands as follows:

• We apply profile guides to the lines marked on the wall and drill holes in them. While creating semicircular wall, cut the profile with scissors and fasten it in a circle. Don't forget to use a level to get an even frame;
• we fasten them with dowels and screws;

Note! You should start installing the frame from the floor and ceiling.

• we perform similar manipulations on the ceiling;
• Next, we connect the ceiling and floor structures to each other with guide profiles. First, we attach the profile to the wall, and only then we install the remaining “ribs”;
• if there are niches, we make transverse fastenings using rack profiles;
• For the strength of the structure, transverse ceilings should be installed using jumpers. This way you will achieve greater structural rigidity;
• we form figured elements, windows and arches from profiles that were cut using metal scissors.

Curly frame element

Note! Using scissors, we cut only one side of the profile.

• We fasten the cut “UW” profile with dowels and screws only after giving it the required position.

When the frame is ready, you can begin installing drywall.

Installation of plasterboard sheets

For figured partitions, the process of covering with plasterboard consists of two stages:

• cladding of straight sections;
• covering of figured elements.

A straight wall or partition will be sheathed in a similar way:

• we make markings with our own hands on a sheet of drywall of the required size;
• cut out pieces from sheets;
• We attach them to the frame using self-tapping screws.
• in the same way we install the sheets into the cavity of the niches.

To create curved and shaped structural elements, drywall will need to be curved. If you know the technology, all this can be easily done with your own hands.
There are two ways to give sheets the required shape:

• wet. Here you should use a spiked roller. We roll over the surface of the sheet and then moisten it generously with water. We leave this sheet to soak in moisture for a while. Then we carefully attach it to the curved frame, bending it as necessary. We fasten the sheet with self-tapping screws;

Note! The second side of the sheet should not get wet or soften.

• dry. IN in this case Perpendicular cuts must be made on one side of the sheet. They must go through equal segments. Next, we attach the sheet to the frame, bending it during installation.

Wet and dry methods

Note! The second side of the sheet should remain intact.

When the entire structure is covered with plasterboard sheets, you can begin the final finishing of the partition.

Final stage

At the final stage, you need to do the following with your own hands:

• Attach sickle tape to all joints;
• putty the places where screws are screwed in and the joints between sheets;
• smooth out all irregularities with sandpaper;
• coat the partition with a deep penetration primer;
• Apply a thin final coat of putty. If it comes out a little uneven, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Almost finished partition

If you follow the instructions correctly, in the end you will get an impeccably even and smooth structure.
Now all that remains is to make the final one, finishing. For this you can use wallpaper, paint, decorative stucco, fake diamond etc. Ultimately partition will definitely be a great addition interior design premises.

When creating arches, niches, multi-level ceilings, sockets for chandeliers, it is often necessary to make a semicircle from plasterboard or other three-dimensional figure with smoothly curved lines. This raises the question: how to bend this generally rigid material without breaking it?

To those who have not yet dealt with this material, it may seem that this is impossible. But it’s enough to look at the photos of completed projects to be convinced of the opposite.

Technology for manufacturing rounded structures

As you already know, to attach drywall you need a rigid frame. This means that to create a circle, semicircle, oval, etc. You will have to bend not only the gypsum board, but also the metal profiles from which the “skeleton” of the figure you need will be assembled.

Related articles:

How to bend a profile

To do this, you need to cut it on both sides. According to what?

Depends on how exactly you need to bend the profile.

• If you make notches along the stiffening ribs (sides) of the profile, it will bend along the back.

• If you leave one of the sides intact, making cuts to it along the second side and the back, the profile will bend in a different direction.

Instead of a curved guide, small sections of the profile can be attached to the ceiling or wall along the markings, leaving a minimum distance between them.

How to bend drywall

Cutting a figure of any shape from gypsum board is not a problem. To do this, you need to draw it on a whole sheet and cut it out with a jigsaw. But to make the figure three-dimensional, you need to know how to round off the drywall connecting two flat parts.

This problem can also be solved in two ways.

But first you need to cut out a part of the desired shape and size.

• Place the cut piece of plasterboard on a hard surface with the wrong side up and roll a needle roller over it. If there is none, just poke holes in the cardboard with a sharp object. Then wet the drywall well, wait until its gypsum core becomes soft, and shape it into the desired shape. After the gypsum has dried, the material will regain its original strength and can be attached to the frame.

• You can give the part a curved shape in another way by applying parallel longitudinal cuts to the workpiece from the outside. This is faster than in the previous case, but it will be more difficult to level the surface with putty.

The video we have proposed will show you more clearly how all the work described above is done.

Advice. Thin ceiling plasterboard with a thickness of 6 or 9 mm bends up to a certain point without breaking, and without additional processing. If you need to make a figure with a large bend radius with your own hands, you can use this material.

Installation procedure

You know how blanks for the frame and cladding are made, all that remains is to tell you how to make a circle of plasterboard inside and out. Or any other voluminous figure with smooth shapes.

For example, let's take a ring in the center of which a chandelier will hang.

1. First make a drawing on paper or computer program with all sizes.
2. Transfer its horizontal projection to the drywall and use a jigsaw or hacksaw to make the main workpiece.

Advice. The easiest way to draw the correct ring on the drywall is to use homemade device, as in the following picture. Only you will need to attach two pencils to it - for the outer and inner radius.

1. Attach the cut out piece to the ceiling and trace around it. This will give you lines along which you will need to secure the guide profile.
2. Measure the length of each line, cut the corresponding segment from the PN profile. If the length of one profile is not enough, then the whole plus a segment.
3. The guide must be attached to the ceiling in such a way that sections of the rack PS profile can be vertically inserted into it. This means that the bend should go along the side. We make cuts to it, as described above.
4. Fix the profile along the line on the ceiling. Fasteners are selected depending on the base material. If this concrete slab, use dowel nails.
5. In the same way, make two more curved profiles and screw a ring cut out of plasterboard to them.
6. Cut sections from the PS profile equal to the desired thickness of the plasterboard structure. They need to be screwed to the ceiling guides every 30-40 cm. The back of the profiles on the outer circle should look outward, on the inner one - to the center of the circle.

1. Lift the plasterboard ring, slide it with guides onto the free ends of the vertical profiles and screw it in place.

1. All that remains is to cut strips from the plasterboard for lining the vertical part of the frame, bend them using any of the methods described above, and screw them on.

Conclusion

Nowadays the price of construction works sometimes it is higher than the cost of materials, that is, repairs with the involvement of specialists will cost twice as much. If you learn to do everything yourself, you can not only save a lot of money, but also be confident in the quality of the work done.

In terms of demand and versatility, drywall will give a head start to many others building materials. And they make structures from it that are sometimes of the highest complexity. Including, this often requires bending drywall. So how to do it right?

The first thing to consider is the thickness of the gypsum board. It is easy to bend slabs 12 mm thick; no special tools are needed for this. But if you want, for example, to bend plasterboard sheet for a radius of up to 130 cm, then it is better to take a sheet 9 mm thick.

In fact, any type of drywall can be bent. But some are more predisposed to this.

Types of drywall:

• Ceiling. It is used to correct the height of the base ceiling surface, to hide communications, to change the shape of the ceiling. Has increased moisture resistance.
• Wall. It is used for leveling and covering walls indoors, and for installing interior partitions.
• Arched. Used in the installation of arched room openings. The composition of the plasterboard sheet is improved with the addition of fiberglass, this gives flexibility to the material. This type of drywall is characterized by increased strength.
• Moisture resistant. And it is usually used in rooms with humidity above 80%; elements that do not absorb liquid are added to the composition of this material. Long-term protection against fungus is limited. Drywall is green.

As you can see, there is plenty to choose from. Drywall is lightweight, inexpensive, and is an environmentally friendly material. But its strength in comparison with other materials will be modest. But it can be bent.

Method for dry bending drywall

If you fix a sheet of drywall to a supporting structure with self-tapping screws, you will be able to bend it to a fairly large radius of curvature. You can use this method for radii of curvature greater than 1 m.

When working with drywall, it is very important to control the pressure applied, being very careful during installation. If the sheet is thinner, then the radius of curvature will be smaller.

How to dry bend a sheet:

• Create a template of the required size;
• Fix one edge of the sheet on the template with self-tapping screws;
• Bend the free edge of the slab into a template shape;
• Secure the second edge with self-tapping screws.

But for many, there are better ways to bend drywall. They use water, or, as in the third method, make cuts. The first method described above is still considered safer.

"Wet" method of bending drywall

And this method can be considered the most common. Most of all, this method is good for the construction of arches, as well as built-in niches. It is based on taking into account the natural characteristics of the material. So gypsum is porous, and if moisture gets on the drywall, it will become soft.

When completely dry, the plasterboard sheet will retain its curvilinear shape for many years.

Let's take a closer look at how to implement this with your own hands.

How to bend drywall using the “wet” method:

• The frame is made from OSB (i.e. particle board);
• Using water room temperature, moisten the sheet until a so-called water mirror forms on its surface;
• The sheet should be soaked for about 10 minutes;
• To ensure that the drywall is evenly moistened, it is most suitable to use a needle roller (if there is none, then punctures are made on the sheet with an awl or even an ordinary fork);
• At the same time, remember - the sheet should not get wet through, only the gypsum core needs to be saturated with water;
• Bend the wet sheet in the same way as described in the dry method and secure it with tape to the template;
• Leave the drywall until completely dry.

Don't worry - contact with liquid will not change the properties of drywall. Water just makes it more elastic and flexible. And when the material dries, its properties return to it in full. That is, the plaster becomes hard again.

Notching method to bend drywall

For some reason it is impossible to wet the sheet; the notching method will be convenient. This is also a dry method, only more manipulations are carried out with the sheet. Don't be alarmed, this method will not damage the sheet.

Notching method:

• On one side of the sheet along the fold line, make cuts with a cutter at a five-centimeter distance from each other (a knife will do);
• The cuts must be made on the convex side of the sheet - more precisely, the side that will be convex;
• The smaller the expected radius, the fewer cuts there should be;
• The depth of the cuts is approximately 2-3 mm to the cardboard layer of the other side;
• The side with the cuts needs to be fanned out;
• The cuts should be filled with putty to secure the structure.

If a cutter is used for cuts, then the cuts can be either U-shaped or V-shape. That is, a sheet of drywall can also take the desired shape. Work carefully and everything will work out.

Tip: how to make a semicircular wall from plasterboard

This is a separate technology - making the wall a semicircle. But there are precise tips that precede any of the methods you choose. Take them into account.

For a semicircular wall it is necessary:

• Use only steel profile for strength;
• Drywall has a low tensile strength, so special templates should be used for bending;
• If the bending radius is small, wet the sheet before bending; the “wet” method is preferable for such tasks;
• The height of the wall should be up to the ceiling if you want ease of installation.

Any of the three methods can lead to the desired result. Properly selected tools and precision technology will help you cope with the task without loss. And, of course, the drywall must be of good quality.

Examples: how to bend drywall in a semicircle (video)

That’s why gypsum boards are so popular because they provide opportunities for repair work considerable. And this despite the fact that its price is more than affordable. Try and change the look of your home using inexpensive, natural and pliable material.

In order to round a wall (not a partition) with plasterboard, there are two ways:

1. On the wall, previously rounded in the rough version, we glue the bent and dried drywall using mounting adhesive.
2. Along the wall that needs to be rounded, we install a frame of the desired shape from metal profiles and cover it with plasterboard.

Let's consider the first option.

In order to stick curved drywall to the wall, it needs to be prepared. Well, if it is a brick wall, then it is not difficult to knock down the outer corner with a hammer drill, bringing the radius of curvature as close as possible to the desired one.

WITH concrete wall there will be more problems - it is quite difficult to round it off due to great strength the concrete itself and the presence of reinforcement in it.

The drywall itself must be bent before being glued. There are two ways to do this:

Not every drywall can be bent to the required radius. Depending on the radius of curvature of the partition, according to the table, we select drywall of the required thickness:

As you can see, the minimum radius of possible curvature is 300mm. If it is necessary to bend drywall with a smaller radius, you need to use the dry method.

Another feature of drywall is that it bends differently in different directions. With a smaller radius you can bend the sheet in the transverse direction. This is due to the fact that there are three times more fibers in the core in the longitudinal direction than in the transverse direction.

After our blanks have dried on the templates, onto the primed rounded wall Apply dots of mounting adhesive for drywall, apply curved drywall to them and carefully press them against the wall.

When attaching drywall to mounting adhesive, you must leave a gap of about a centimeter between the floor and the sheets so that there is air circulation for the glue to dry (you can use scraps of drywall, placing them under the sheets).

The second method of rounding the wall (on profiles) can also be done in two ways - the frame of the false wall can be assembled from ceiling (CD and UD) or wall (CW and UW) profiles. The frame made from wall profiles will be more rigid and reliable, but accordingly its cost will be higher. The installation principle of both frames is not much different.

I explained how to mount the frame and cover it with plasterboard in straight sections.

In order to bend the partition, you need to use a grinder or metal scissors to cut one of the shelves and the core of the guide profile (UD or UW) into segments. We attach the cut profile to concrete floor(along the drawn circular line) with quick installation dowels. TO wooden floors We screw the curved profile into each segment with self-tapping screws.

We unfold the profile in such a way that the whole (not cut) shelf is on the side where the drywall is attached, and on the inside the edges of the sheet overlap each other when the cuts are made.

To attach a segment profile to the ceiling, you need to transfer it to it and draw exactly the same curve as on the floor. It’s easier to do this by making a template from paper or drywall.

Profile for concrete ceiling to each segment fasten with quick-installation dowels. If the ceiling is plasterboard, we use MOLLI dowels, and where there are load-bearing ceiling profiles, we fasten them with 35 self-tapping screws. If there are no additional loads on the partition, the profile can be secured to the drywall by driving several 25 screws into each segment - they will hold the frame in shear quite well.

After we have secured the curved guide profiles to the floor and ceiling, we install rack profiles in them. You can determine the pitch of the posts depending on the radius of the circle and the pitch of the cuts of the guide profiles using the table:

We fasten the installed profiles with brackets (you can use direct hangers for civil ceilings) to the main wall. We fix the CD posts no more than every 80cm, and the CW posts every 120cm.

On the rounded, installed frame we mount (according to the first table) the selected wet or dry drywall of the required thickness. It is not necessary to bend wet sheets on a template and wait until they dry - they can be bent and attached directly to the frame.

Finishing the wall can begin only after the wet drywall has dried.

Complex forms made of plasterboard are necessary not only on the ceiling; sometimes, for the uniqueness of the design or for spectacular changes in the layout, you have to think about how to make round wall. More precisely, arcuate, since it would be impractical to completely loop the structure. But is drywall able to withstand such tests, and how can you get the desired result from straight metal profiles? Let's figure it out.

Before making a round wall, let's find out what it will give

First of all, perhaps, we should summarize the information about such convenient, but not particularly durable drywall. This composite material also known as dry plaster, and is actively used for finishing walls, even in rooms with high level moisture or fire hazards using particularly resistant sheets. However, unlike decorative coatings, which are applied a few millimeters thick and immediately represent the finishing option, sheets of two layers of cardboard, between which a frozen layer of gypsum is enclosed, require finishing.

But if you do not pay attention to the decorative component, drywall is a very valuable development, because you can make a round wall from it quite quickly, just by slightly moistening it. Today, sheets with a thickness of 6, 8, and 9.5 millimeters are produced (the most popular dimensions, but there are also thicker ones), which bend relatively easily, especially the first type, called arched. More massive modifications are necessary in cases where a solid base is needed, for example, so that plasterboard niches have more than just decorative value.

From this we conclude that practically no other material can be used, say, for curved walls or for suspended ceilings in the form of complex figures (especially in the latter case) Neither plywood nor plastic have the necessary margin of flexibility and durability. Brick is especially not suitable for light structures. As for the roundness of plasterboard walls, it is needed, first of all, in cases where it is necessary to slightly increase the area of ​​one room by removing a protrusion in it, by reducing the area in the adjacent room, where there will be no corner. In addition, protruding parts of the layout are damaged more often than rounded ones.

We make rounded partitions

We already know that rounded partitions can be made easily, albeit with a certain degree of caution, since the material is quite brittle. But what should we do with the frame on which the sheets need to be attached? Wooden beam disappears immediately. But with profiles, it turns out that the desired result is quite achievable. We will also need mineral wool, a sufficient number of screws and some tools. In particular: construction compass and knife, hacksaw and grinder saw, screwdriver, metal scissors, square, needle roller, pencil.

How to make a round wall from plasterboard - step by step diagram

Step 1: Marking the bases

We apply a semicircle to the inner sides of the connected partition frames, converging at an angle, so that the flat side of the template is perpendicular to one of the structures, and draw an arc on the floor.

Exactly the same markings should be on the ceiling, but if you can’t draw on it, simply screw the template itself with several screws in the same position in which it lay below.

You can also attach a part cut from the workpiece on top with the same arc, the shape of which our template took.

Step 2: Preparing the Guides

It is very important to correctly bend the profile, which, despite being made of metal, can easily take on an arched shape. To do this, measure 5 centimeter sections along the back plane of the guide, making notes.

Then we draw transverse lines along them, along which we make cuts with a grinder.

Using scissors, we cut away the cuts from one of the sides of the profile.

Bend the remaining intact side into the arc we need, checking the line drawn on the floor.

We are preparing exactly the same profile for the ceiling.

Step 3: Making a Template

At the first stage of work, we measure the required bending radius of the wall (the minimum for a nine-millimeter sheet is 50 centimeters), after which we begin drawing the template. As a blank, you can use a sheet of plywood or even a piece of drywall, if such waste is possible.

As a result, a semicircle with the required radius should be drawn on the sheet, which we cut out with a hacksaw, using a construction knife if it is drywall.

Step 4: Attaching the Frame

Make sure that the profiles are strictly vertical. In order not to miss the profiles during the process of covering the structure, we draw marks on the floor and ceiling at their bases.

Step 5: Installing the External Arc Cover

In order for the sheets of drywall to bend without cracks and other flaws, you need to wet them and leave them for 20 minutes to soften a little.

Then carefully lift finishing material, which can now tear like ordinary wet cardboard, and apply it to the outermost vertical post of the frame. We screw it to the first profile, bend it slightly until it touches the second post, screw it again and repeat the process until the drywall is fixed to all vertical elements of the frame.

It is better to cut the sheets into strips or use waste, so there is less chance of them cracking during the bending process.

Step 6: Installing soundproofing

Since our round plasterboard walls are still an unfinished structure with only one-sided sheathing, we begin to lay soundproofing mineral wool slabs between the profiles.

To do this, we cut them into narrow strips that should fit tightly between vertical posts frame, partially entering the profiles.

Step 7: Installation of the inner arc cover

Laying sheets of drywall on the inside of a curved structure is done in exactly the same way as on the outside, with only one difference - now you can form the bend of the sheathing on the outer covering. We wet the strips of drywall, but now we roll a needle roller over them on the side that will be outside. When the desired degree of curvature is obtained on the outer part of the arc, we transfer the sheet inside the frame and fix it with screws.

We cut off the excess with a construction knife or saw in the middle of the outer profile for the joint with the next sheathing elements.

We attach whole wetted sheets with a second layer, also cutting them off in the middle of the vertical post.