How to make a brick heap. How to insulate the foundation of a wooden house from the outside

Zavalinka is indispensable attribute classical wooden house, built without the use of modern thermal insulation materials. By design, the wall is an extension to the plinth and the lower part of the wall with a beveled upper plane. Natural heat-insulating material - hay, sawdust, chaff, dry earth, etc. - was traditionally placed inside the box.

The main function of the fill is to insulate a wooden house and protect the space under the house from freezing. Since cold air sinks down, rooms with external insulation of the lower part of the wall do not lose heat as actively.

At the same time, the pile protects the foundation and lower crowns of the frame from the effects of precipitation and melt water, which extends the life of the house - it is much easier to replace external structure, when its elements fail, than to replace the rotten lower logs in the walls, raising the frame on jacks.

Zavalinka not only solves the issue of thermal insulation, but also serves as an architectural decoration of the house. In addition, the pile was actively used as a bench for relaxing in the fresh air. To sit comfortably, it is important to choose optimal height design, width and angle of inclination of its upper part.

When planning to build a backfill on your own, you need to determine the dimensions of the structure, select materials for its installation and decide on the material for backfilling, taking into account its availability and thermal insulation properties.

Installation of heap

To arrange a wooden plinth you will need to use:

wooden slats;
edged boards or lining;
hammer + nails;
wood hacksaw;
roulette;
building level;
bayonet shovel;
cord + pegs.

At the preliminary stage of work, it is necessary to prepare a design for the filling, calculating the optimal height and width of the box, the angle of inclination of the upper skin, which should successfully remove precipitation and be convenient for use as a bench. The optimal width of the heap-bench is 30-40 cm.

Along the perimeter of the house (except for the wall with front door) carry out the markings, using pegs and a cord to mark the outline of the future blockage. It is necessary to remove debris from the marked strip and remove the fertile layer of soil. Then a trench is dug 5 cm deep and 30-40 cm wide, depending on the designed width of the structure.

The next stage is the assembly of the frame, the cross-section of which is a trapezoid. It is mounted as follows:

a horizontal support made of slats is attached to the wall (the height of the location is determined by the project, on average it is 60-70 cm);
vertical slats are placed along the edges of the wall and along the entire length in increments of about a meter;
slats are laid close to the outer edge of the prepared trench along the entire perimeter - from them the lower external support of the frame is formed;
boards are laid at the bottom of the trench;
opposite the slats installed vertically on the walls, slats are attached outer skin, their height should be less to ensure the required angle of inclination of the heap cover;
external vertical supports are fastened to the supports on the wall by horizontal jumpers and an upper jumper located at an angle;
the outer side of the frame is sewn up with boards, and it is important to join them tightly so that moisture does not penetrate into the insulation;
the finished box is filled with heat insulator;
an upper skin is attached to the inclined lintels, which helps to drain rainwater from the walls and serves as a bench.

The sheathing is mounted from a wide, long board (one board for each wall), if the width of the pile allows it. You can use two boards, first securing the bottom one with a slight overhang, then the top one so that the water can roll off freely. Another option is to install the flooring from scraps of lining; the principle of connecting the elements allows you to create a skin that does not allow moisture to pass through.

If the slope of the upper skin is steep, moisture from rain and melting snow will easily roll off the heap, but it will be uncomfortable to sit on such a structure. A tilt angle of about 25-30 degrees is a compromise option.

Before starting the installation of the structure, it is recommended to treat all elements cut to size with an antiseptic and fire retardant, or a complex protective composition. This will protect the wood from rotting, reduce the risk of accidental fire or slow down the spread of fire. Treatment of wood with a fire-bioprotective agent is carried out in two stages with intermediate drying; the composition is applied from a sprayer, brush or roller.

The do-it-yourself top flooring on the heap and the lining of the sidewalls must be covered with a decorative and protective composition - varnish or paint. Selected, designed for the climatic conditions of the region. To appearance wood paneling preserved for many years, and the wood itself did not crack or rot; the decorative and protective layer was renewed every 3-4 years.

Having learned how to make a heap in a wooden house on your own, you can insulate your wooden house or a dacha, creating a building in a traditional folk style. Today, along with traditional materials for installation and decoration, heaps are also used. modern options. For example, vertical cladding can be made from DSP sheets or decorated with siding on the outside.

If sawdust or other flammable substances are used as insulation, the backfill should be treated with a fire retardant to reduce the fire hazard of the building. Filling the rubble with soil is not recommended - insects actively breed in the soil and can damage the wood or penetrate inside the house.

Among modern insulation materials, polystyrene foam in balls is suitable for use, but keep in mind its low fire resistance. Mineral wool is categorically not recommended for installation in an external box - this material accumulates moisture and must be carefully waterproofed, which unnecessarily increases the cost of the structure and complicates the work.

Today, zavalinka is rarely used as an option for home insulation, but its effectiveness and functionality have been tested for centuries.

Zavalinka is one of the traditional attributes of Russians village houses. The main purpose of the cover is to protect houses from freezing in the event of severe frosts. This is done by sprinkling the house around the perimeter with earth, which prevents heat loss.

Naturally, with the improvement of construction technologies and the advent of new materials (including insulating materials), the relevance of the piles is gradually fading away. However, they still remain an interesting design element that can emphasize the color of a house made in one of the traditional styles. In addition, for wooden houses, the filling also retains its functional meaning, as it is able to protect against severe cold.

Let's look at how to make a pile with your own hands.

In general, the technology for arranging the simplest heap does not present any great difficulties:

1. The house is dug up on all sides except where the door is located. As a result, along the perimeter of the house (with the exception of one wall) you will have a flat area, cleared of grass and roots.
2. Along each wall (again, except for the one where the door is located), it is necessary to make a small recess (up to 50 mm) with a width of about 400 mm. The base of the frame of our heap will be placed in this recess. Accordingly, its width is equal to the width of the heap. If you make it larger than 400 mm, you will have difficulties with arranging the upper part, which we will discuss below.
3. The frame of the pile is made from ordinary wooden slats and attached to the wall of the house. Please note that the frame rail opposite the wall of the house should be smaller than the one adjacent to the wall, which will ensure the slope of the pile. The slope is necessary for the free flow of water and snow removal. Otherwise, water will flow under the rubble, which is categorically undesirable. Ultimately, we will get a rectangular trapezoid, the wide part adjacent to the wall of the house.
4. In increments of about a meter, vertical slats are nailed to the wall of the house, on which the continuation of the frame is built. Thus, for each wall, we will have a frame of a three-dimensional figure, consisting of rectangular “sections” connected by horizontal slats.
5. It is recommended to lay the bottom of the pile with boards.
6. The frame (except for the upper part) is covered with boards. It is recommended to treat the latter with compounds that increase water resistance. As a result, we will get a kind of box running along the wall with an open top part.
7. This box is filled with sawdust or other similar material. In principle, it can also be filled with mineral wool, but this will be noticeably more expensive.
8. It is recommended to cover the top of the pile with one board, as otherwise the drainage of water will be difficult. It is at this stage that the width of the heap we choose becomes important. If it is more than 400 mm, it will be difficult for you to find a board of this width - after all, taking into account the slope, we will need a board 460 mm wide. Theoretically, you can use two boards, but they need to be laid so that the upper one overlaps the lower one, as is done when arranging a roof.
9. The frame boards, as well as the upper part of the heap, are fastened together using ordinary nails.

Please note: the greater the slope of the heap, the more reliably the water will run off it, and the more uncomfortable it will be to sit on it. Accordingly, you will need to find some kind of compromise solution.

All photos from the article

Over time, almost every building loses its aesthetic and strength characteristics, especially if wood was used as the main material during construction. Correcting the situation is quite possible, but in reality it is not so simple.

It is necessary to carry out a number of rather complex operations that will take a lot of time.

Working with the base

When carrying out a complete renovation of a wooden house with your own hands, you should first think about the foundation part. If there are any unevennesses, then it is necessary to lift the harness with a jack in order to place the bars the right size. In an old house, it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely redo the foundation.

External filling

This design is mainly designed to protect the underground space from freezing. If it already exists, but has fallen into disrepair, then work should be carried out to remodel this structure.

Repairing the debris of a wooden house is carried out approximately according to the following scheme.

The lumber used is prepared properly. To carry out the work you will need 50x50 mm bars and 25 mm thick edged boards. All of them must be treated with protective compounds.
The old structure is being carefully dismantled. Using a nail puller, the boards holding the embankment are torn off, after which the supporting beams are removed. The old filler is completely or partially removed.
.
It is attached to support posts, which must be aligned in the same plane. The step between the load-bearing elements is usually 40-50 cm. Edged boards are screwed or nailed to the surface of the structure to form a retaining wall.
During these activities, fasteners with a length of at least 70 mm are used. The interior of the structure is filled with bulk filler. The outer side of the side wall is sheathed facing materials
or painted. Metal flashings are installed directly above such a heat-insulating barrier.

. When connecting them, an overlap of about 5-10 cm is made.

Attention! Sawdust, expanded clay, sand and even earth can be used as filler. Waterproofing is installed on the inside to prevent contact with the wood surface.

Internal filling The heap can also be constructed from the inside. With this option, work is carried out according to the same principle, but fewer demands are placed on aesthetics. There is no need to finish the structure, since this design

will be out of sight.

After completion of work to improve thermal insulation and appearance you can begin measures to transform the side surfaces. Special attention should be given additional insulation, because it will not hurt in any case. However, before such operations you need to make sure the walls are reliable.

Activities outside

If the tips for repairing a wooden house are taken into account, then there should not be any particular difficulties when finishing the outside of the building. First of all, it is necessary to replace damaged cladding elements, remove trim from windows and doors, and also remove other objects that interfere with the work.

The following materials will be required to transform the outer surfaces of wood.

The lining will act as a finishing coating for the facade.
An edged board is needed to level the walls and fasten the finishing material.
Foamed polyethylene with a thickness of at least 5 mm is required for additional thermal insulation.
Staples, screws and finishing nails will be required to secure the materials. Their price is low.
Wooden elements will be protected with the help of antiseptic compounds.
The paint product will help improve the aesthetic characteristics of the coating.

Addition! To achieve a positive effect when carrying out painting work, it is recommended to purchase a primer and apply it before coating with a decorative protective composition.

Having prepared everything necessary materials, every novice master should understand that it is advisable to carry out repairs on the outside of a private wooden house in good weather to keep the walls as dry as possible. Then it will be possible to avoid the occurrence of putrefactive processes inside.

Basic instructions for implementing measures related to insulation and transformation of walls are given below.

Insulation based on foamed polyethylene is attached to the side surfaces using staples or adhesive composition . The sheets of thermal insulation material are connected without overlap. The joints are sealed with aluminum tape.
The sheathing of boards is attached directly through the insulation. First, they are installed by level corner elements, after which intermediate posts are placed along the stretched line in increments of 40 cm. If necessary, pieces of wood are placed under the planks.
The lining panels are stuffed onto the prepared one. Fastening is done in a hidden way. The finishing nails are driven into the inside of the groove itself. External and internal corners are closed using sanded boards and decorative slats.
At the last stage, the finished coating is processed paint and varnish material any color. During the application process, a paint brush or spray gun can be used. Painting lining with a roller is not very convenient.

Note! If desired, instead of foamed polyethylene, you can use mineral wool, but in this case you will have to install 50 x50 mm cross bars and install a waterproofing barrier.

Actions inside

When the building has been transformed from the outside and insulated, you can begin finishing the side surfaces of the home itself. To carry out the work, you will need shaped boards, OSB boards and wallpaper. Additionally, the room can be thermally insulated with foamed polyethylene.

The sheathing elements are installed level. First, four corners are made from boards if the room is shaped like a rectangle or square. After their installation, a fishing line is stretched, along which the remaining racks of the supporting structure are positioned.

OSB sheets are attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws. A gap of at least 5 mm is left between the ceiling, floor and walls located perpendicularly. Subsequently, it will be covered with a plinth or decorative strip.

After covering wood boards Wallpapering is usually done, but if necessary, other facing materials can be used.

Replacement of windows and doors

When carrying out restoration work, old door frames are dismantled from openings and window units. To do this, you need to remove the hangers or unscrew the screws located in the end part. Remains of hardened polyurethane foam removed with a knife.

New windows are installed in the openings and leveled strictly. As for fastening, it is done using metal plates.

During installation door frames Bolts are screwed into special holes. The space around the perimeter is filled with polyurethane foam.

As a conclusion

Any novice craftsman, thanks to the above information, will be able to imagine how to repair a wooden house with his own hands, without spending additional money on hiring professionals.

The special video in this article can be an additional guide.

How to build a rural house Shepelev Alexander Mikhailovich

SOCCER, LAP, BACKGROUND, BLINDBOARD

The base is the upper, thinner part of the foundation, rising 50 - 70 cm above the ground. The base must be strong, resistant to atmospheric and groundwater. Therefore, it is laid out from durable frost-resistant materials (stone, concrete, iron brick) and plastered cement mortar composition 1:3.

Rice. 88. Bases:

A - lined with brick; b- pile; 1 - waterproofing; 2 - brick; 3 - drain board; 4 - wood paneling; 5 - sand; 6 - beam fixed to the walls using a board with a side

If the walls are soil-cement or adobe, then the base is lined with brick or concrete stones. If they are not there, then make a pile (Fig. 88) using sand or slag.

Pickups - simplest form base These are thin walls between the foundation pillars that insulate the underground space and protect it from dust, moisture, snow, etc. (Fig. 89). From the inside, the fences are insulated with slag, dry earth, and sand. They are made from the same materials as the foundation pillars, but they can also be made from others. The width of a rubble fence is at least 400 mm, a brick one - 1 or 1/2 bricks. Bury into the ground 300: - 500 mm. If the soil is clayey, then a sand cushion 150 - 200 mm thick is made under the backfill. The fence is plastered.

To ventilate the underground, one ventilation hole of at least 140X140 mm in size must be made on each side of the house in the basement, vault or heap. They must be at least 150 mm from ground level. With the onset of warm weather they are opened, and with the onset of cold weather they are closed with wooden liners or bricks, coated with clay.

Rice. 89. Pickups: a, c, d - from logs; b - from boards; 1 - ventilation hole

Blind areas serve to drain atmospheric and other waters from the foundation of the house. A blind area is like a sidewalk 50 to 100 cm wide with a slope away from the house. The slope should be equal to 0.1 of the width of the blind area (10 cm per 1 m of width). Having removed the plant soil around the foundation to a depth of 10 - 15 cm, a layer of soft clay is placed in the resulting recess, thoroughly compacted, giving the desired slope. Then sand is filled with gravel (crushed stone) or broken bricks, compacted and filled with cement mortar or covered with cement soil or asphalt. It is recommended to dig grooves along the edges of the blind area with a slope to drain water away from the house.

From the book Foundation. Durable and reliable author Kreis V.A.

BLINDBOARD AND SOCCER Socle is the part of the foundation that is located above ground level. The base serves to protect the foundation from climatic influences, especially from precipitation. In addition, a building with a base that is too low or without one at all looks

From the book Practical summer shower and toilet in the country author Dobrova Elena Vladimirovna

Plinth Plinths are placed between the base of the building wall and the foundation. Such elements of the structure, depending on their design and location, can be divided into three groups: protruding, in the wall and recessed (Fig. 32). To increase the degree of strength

From the book Building a house quickly and cheaply author Simonov Evgeniy Vitalievich

Blind area The blind area is designed to protect the foundation from precipitation. Moisture falling on the ground penetrates deep and, although with a sufficiently deep foundation it does not reach the base, it still has a destructive effect. The blind area is a small

But, nevertheless, in severe frosts such a design can protect country house from freezing. A well-constructed heap will be an excellent addition to any modern thermal insulation materials, used in the construction of a residential building.

Functional meaning

Zavalinka is a special coating made around the perimeter of the building. If we use modern insulating materials, heat loss will be significantly reduced.

The same design in summer time can be used instead of a bench - it decorates huts made in the Russian style, and is their functional element. This is a kind of tribute to tradition that can add color to a residential building.

Considering the attention of owners to the environmental friendliness of residential buildings, the interest of builders in natural wood is increasing every year. Many modern people they want to live outside the city or at least relax here during the hot season. And for this you will need a high-quality and comfortable home.

It is advisable to build it from wood and then equip it with a pile, as our distant ancestors did. It will protect the building from freezing and help maintain the indoor microclimate at any time of the year.

A little about technology

Traditionally, this element was made using a special barrier and an earthen embankment. Sometimes hay was used as insulation, which was placed in the space between the erected structure and the wall. In the spring, the hay was removed - it was used as feed or bedding for livestock.

Nowadays, other equally cheap and environmentally friendly materials can be used as backfill - for example, sawdust. Insulation placed in the gap of the structure will help protect the building during periods of severe frost. The foundation will remain dry. As a result, the entire structure will not suffer from the destructive effects of dampness.

General principles:

The entire building must be protected. To do this, digging around the perimeter, with the exception of the wall with the door, is made - a small area is created, free from rhizomes and grass.
Then, on the prepared sites, a deepening of 5-6 centimeters with a width of up to 40 centimeters is made (this is the width of the future heap).
After that, a frame of slats is mounted into the prepared base, made in the form of a recess, ensuring a slight slope along the upper part from the walls outward. The slope is necessary for drainage of melt or rain water (moisture should not seep into the foundation). Additional fastenings are made directly to the walls.
The upper part of the frame is made of vertical slats installed on the walls in increments of one meter. On this basis, a continuation of the frame is erected.
The bottom of the structure is laid out using boards. Everything except the top part is also covered with boards.
It is advisable to treat the resulting box with an anti-corrosion compound, which reduces the likelihood of the formation of fungus and mold.
Then sun-dried sawdust is poured into the box. You can use mineral wool, but then the thermal insulation of the walls and foundation will cost the owners more.
After which the box is closed with one board (40 cm wide) or two boards, adjusted so that the bottom one is located with one edge under the top one. This is done to facilitate the flow of rainwater in the direction opposite to the house.

Materials and preparation

Before starting work, owners need to stock up on all building materials: boards, slats, sawdust as insulation, nails and tools for installation.

TO preparatory work This includes clearing the required area of trees, bushes and grass. Traditionally, nothing is done to the side where the front door is located.

After preparing the excavation in the soil, the first horizontal strip is attached to the walls at a distance of about 40-50 centimeters from the ground level. As a result, a rectangle of slats is formed around the perimeter of the house. Above are other horizontal fragments of the structure.

Then the vertical elements are installed and then secured to the walls. As a result, a structure with a cross-section in the form of a rectangular trapezoid is erected along the perimeter of the building.

It should be noted that for finishing you can use not only traditional boards, but also more modern materials– pressed slabs, slate. However, such construction works will cost the owners more, and the national flavor will be partially lost.