Planting and caring for daffodil flowers is practiced in almost every household plot. These plants appeared in Russia even earlier than tulips and hyacinths, and gradually the cultivation of this crop acquired cult proportions. Everyone knows what a daffodil flower looks like, but it would be useful for novice plant growers to become familiar with the technology of forcing and the classification of these plants.

Description of the narcissus: what the stems and bulbs look like, the structure of the flower

The daffodil plant belongs to the amaryllis family. Under natural conditions it grows in the Mediterranean, Asia and southern Europe. The genus has about 60 species and thousands of hybrids and varieties bred by breeders.

The description of the daffodil flower should begin with the fact that it is a perennial bulbous plant with basal linear leaves, a peduncle, the length of which can vary from 8 to 80 cm.

As you can see in the photo, the narcissus bulb has a round or ovoid shape, covered with a shell of scales:

Its structure is characterized distinctive feature: The bulb has two renewal buds, which are at different stages of development.

Narcissus blooms in white, yellow, orange, red and shades of red and orange. The structure of a narcissus flower consists of a crown and tepals. Flowers can be split-crowned or double. At the same time, the shape of the flower is amazing: six lobes of perianth, and in the middle there is a growth - long or not very long. It is called a tube or crown. The diameter of a white, yellow or cream flower is from 2 to 10 cm, the crown is from 1 to 6 cm, the height of the crown is from 0.5 to 6 cm. The edge of the crown is smooth or wavy. Tones – white, yellow, orange, pink, red. A border of a different color may be located along the edge of the crown. When daffodils bloom, there are from one to seven flowers on the stem, depending on the variety.

When describing the daffodil plant, it is worth noting that flowers with pink and orange crowns retain their color better if they are not in bright sun.

The root system of daffodils is fibrous and is formed from annually renewed adventitious cord-like roots, which are located in the lower outer part of the bottom. They are laid during the summer dormancy period and appear on the bulb in the fall. In addition to ordinary roots, daffodils also have retractable roots, which help the bulb to sink into the soil. They appear on small and medium-sized bulbs, as well as when planted shallowly (up to 10 cm). The lifespan of the roots is 11-12 months, then they gradually die off. In August, new roots begin to grow, and it is in the fall that they grow most intensively. In years with excess moisture, the death of old roots is delayed. When the bulbs are stored for a long time in conditions of high humidity, root regrowth begins already in the storage. This, of course, is very bad, since the roots may break off during sorting and planting. Subsequently, they are renewed due to the reserves of bulbs, but such plants develop poorly. The roots of the daffodil die off by mid-summer.

The leaves of daffodils are linear, erect, green or glaucous, collected in basal bunches. During the growing season, from 3 to 5 assimilating leaves develop. By the time of flowering, the leaf blades reach their maximum size.

From the following description you will learn what a narcissus stem, bract leaf, peduncle and bulb look like.

The flower stem is leafless, from 10 to 50 cm or more in height, smooth, round or slightly flattened, sometimes ribbed with two keels on the sides.

The bract develops at the internode, at the base of the peduncle, and consists of two fused leaflets that form a tube that protects the flower from damage during development. As the bud grows, the bract breaks, turning into a membranous wing that covers the peduncle and part of the ovary.

The peduncle is a thinner extension of the stem and different varieties has different lengths. The peduncle grows unevenly and therefore becomes curved. The degree of its curvature varies, due to which the flowers are arranged vertically or at different angles of inclination.

The narcissus bulb has 10–12 storage scales of two ages: current and last year. One or two daughter bulbs are laid inside the mother bulb. Plant growth occurs due to nutrients from external storage scales; after flowering, they are deposited in the current year's storage scales (internal). The advancement of daughter bulbs embedded in the bulb to the periphery occurs over several years. Thus, the bulb is in constant development.

That is why daffodil bulbs can be left to overwinter in the soil, digging them up every 5–6 years. In old gardens it is possible even once every 10 years. Signals indicating that the bulbs need to be replanted are poor flowering, shredding of flowers, an outbreak of disease, or crowding of bulbs with each other. Usually the transplant is done in early August, when the narcissus leaves turn yellow. If the bulb has already begun to form new roots, it is necessary to carefully dig up the bulbs so as not to damage the new roots.

Daffodil flowers for bouquets are cut off in the bud phase at the moment when the covering leaf bursts and the bud turns color.

Since mucus containing toxic substances is released from the cut, daffodils should not be placed in a vase with other flowers, which may fade prematurely, since the sticky juice will clog the vessels on their cuts and the access of water will stop. The stems of daffodils should be immersed in water to a depth of no more than 6–7 cm. The beginning and duration of flowering of daffodils depends on the temperature of the soil and air. Air temperatures of 15 °C and soil temperatures of 10–12 °C are considered optimal (this is April, May).

History and properties of daffodils

The history of daffodils in Russia began earlier than the history of tulips and hyacinths. This flower became popular at the end of the 19th century, when breeders from Holland, England, the USA, and Japan began to develop new varieties.

The graceful forms of the daffodil have turned the flower into a real symbol of the awakening of nature. The flower can be called a romantic plant. Its petals are delicate and the aroma is simply delicious. Many gardeners love to grow unpretentious daffodils.

It’s not only in Russia that people love daffodils. For example, among the Chinese it is considered a traditional New Year's plant. The ancient Romans once had a tradition of greeting victorious warriors with bouquets of daffodils. The British especially like daffodils. In this country, the daffodil is even more popular than the beautiful rose. Once upon a time in Germany it was customary to bring a pot of daffodils to the house of the newly-made husband after the wedding. After this, the young wife carefully looked after the plant, which, according to legend, brought good luck and prosperity to the young couple’s house.

The properties of narcissus have been known for a long time folk medicine. The ancient Greeks made an aromatic oil from a wonderful flower, which they used in the treatment of male infertility, as well as to stimulate desire. In the East, the leaves of this plant were used in the treatment of hemorrhoids and to relieve headaches. It is believed that the leaves promote the speedy healing of wounds and abrasions.

The leaves and bulbs of the plant contain a substance that is used in modern folk medicine to treat pneumonia, bronchitis and as an expectorant. Dermatologists claim that narcissus leaves can be used as an aid in the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases.

The advantage of daffodils over many bulbous plants is that they are not eaten by mice, since the bulbs and leaves of the daffodil contain toxic substances. Therefore, daffodils can serve as a “shield” for tulips, small-bulbous ephemeroids, lilies and other bulbous plants planted nearby.

Currently, daffodils are widely used in landscaping flower beds, lawns, borders; they are planted in groups between shrubs, and they are used to create original compositions with other spring flowers. In addition, daffodils make excellent cutting material.

Narcissus plant: codes and classification

Scientists have divided daffodils into 13 groups. And only one of these groups are those daffodils that are found wild in nature. The remaining groups of daffodils are the work of human hands: they are obtained by crossing.

If you buy narcissus bulbs from a catalog, you need to learn to read the narcissus code - it is the same for the whole world.

Narcissus flower color codes:

• g – green (green);
• o – orange (orange);
• p-pink (pink);
• r – red (red);
• w – white (white);
• y – yellow (yellow).

If the daffodil has many colors and shades, the code can contain up to 6 characters. The first describe the color of the petal, mentally divided into three zones: from the tip to the center. The second three are the coloring of the crown, also divided into three zones, but from the center to the edge of the crown.

Narcissus flowering time codes:

• 1 – very early;
• 2 – early;
• 3 – early middle;
• 4 – average;
• 5 – mid-late;
• 6 – late.

Peduncle height codes:

• 1 – below 20 cm;
• 2 – from 20 to 40 cm;
• 3 – from 40 to 50 cm;
• 4 – above 50 cm.

See what the general code looks like using the example of one of the narcissus varieties, namely the La Belle variety: 2-Y‑GYO, 3, 3. This means that the variety belongs to the second group (2), that the flowers have yellow petals (Y) , that the crown from the center to the paradise has a green-yellow-orange (GYO) color, the flowering time of the variety is early-mid (3), and the height of the peduncle (3) is from 40 to 50 cm.

International classification of daffodils:

1. Tubular

They bloom early. These classic daffodils have one big flower on a strong peduncle. The tube is equal to or longer than the perianth lobes. Color white, yellow, one or two colors (perianth and tube different colors). Good for open ground and for forcing.

2. Large crown

One flower on a peduncle. The crown of the flower is shorter than the perianth segments, but is more than 1/3 of their length. That is, the crown is not very long. This group contains the most diverse combination of colors of the crown and perianth lobes. Perianth white, yellow, cream. The crown is white, cream, yellow, orange, orange-red, pink. There are many varieties with borders of varying widths in orange, pink or red; the edge of the crown can be wavy, corrugated, bent back, similar to airy lace. Insanely beautiful flower.

3. Small crown

The length of the crown of these daffodils is small - less than 1/3 of the length of the perianth lobe. There is one large flower on the peduncle. The perianth is white, cream or yellow. The crown is often bordered, yellow-orange, apricot, pink, red, greenish. They bloom later than varieties from the first and second groups.

4. Terry

These narcissists defy our usual ideas about narcissists! On the peduncle there is one or several flowers, with a double perianth or a double crown, or both the crown and the perianth are double. One or two colors: white, yellow with red, orange, pink tones. Terry daffodils have been known for more than a hundred years, but they were identified as a separate group not so long ago, since there were very few terry varieties. These beauties have a drawback - the flower stalks droop when wet, so after rain or heavy watering the flower stalks tend to the ground and can break. It is better to tie terry to the supports.

5. Triandrusaceae

On one low peduncle there may be 2–6 small hanging flowers, the petals of which are slightly pulled back. Flower tones are white, yellow, golden. The crown is small, cup-shaped.

6. Cyclamenoides

Blooms early. On a low (15–20 cm) peduncle there is one graceful flower, similar to a cyclamen flower. The perianth lobes are very strongly bent back, the flower is located at an acute angle to the peduncle, with a short peduncle, the crown is narrow and long. White, yellow perianth, crown white, yellow, orange.

7. Jonquils

They bloom late. There are several flowers on the peduncle, the perianth lobes are spread out or bent back, the crown is small, cup-shaped. Usually its width is greater than its length. The flowers are fragrant, the leaves are narrow. Color yellow, white.

8. Tacetoid

They bloom late and need shelter for the winter. There are several - more than three - flowers on a strong peduncle. The perianth lobes are spread out, not thrown back, the flowers are usually fragrant, with a specific aroma. The petals are round, with a folded surface. The crowns are small. The leaves are wide. Color: white, cream, yellow. Good for forcing.

9. Poetic or real

This name was given to fragrant varieties of narcissus with a large, flat, single flower and a very small, flat crown. Poetic daffodils bloom late, they can not be replanted for a long time, up to 6 years. The perianth lobes are usually white, the crown is folded, disc-shaped, usually with a green or yellow center and a red border around the edge (sometimes monochromatic). They can grow not only in sunny places, but also in partial shade.

10. Hybrids of N. Bulbocodium

There is one flower on a low (10–15 cm) peduncle, the perianth lobes are very small, almost undeveloped, the crown is in the shape of a bell. These daffodils are also called daffodils - “crinolines”. They can winter well in mid-latitudes, but in cold winters it is better to cover them. Good in the ground too. And for forcing.

11. Split Corona

This daffodil looks like an orchid. There is one flower on the peduncle. The crown is severely cut, more than half. The tones of the crown are very different: white, yellow, red, pink, orange. A very beautiful flower.

12. Wild species

Natural species and their cultural forms.

Varieties of daffodils: photos, names and descriptions of plants

Beautiful trumpet daffodils Spellbinder with white crown and yellow petals, large-crowned Precocious, Oregon Snow, Manon Lescout, Rosy Sunrise, Berlin- with a highly corrugated bright crown. Among the small-crowned ones, we can recommend the graceful ones Audubon and Lancaster, from terry - amazing Obdam, Modern Art, Delnashaugh, My Story.

You won't regret choosing split crown daffodils - amazing Chanterelle, Pink Wonder, SunnySide Up or aromatic triandrusaceae Thalia, cyclamenoides Wisley, Cotinga, Avalanche taceto.

When buying daffodil bulbs, you may see the Top size mark on the packaging. This means that the package contains very high-quality planting material, which consists of 2-3 bulbs that have grown together. These daffodils will bloom beautifully right away in the first year.

Here you can see photos of daffodil varieties whose names are given above:

from the group of poetic - Actea, Glory of Liss, Dante(white with yellow crown);

tazetta-shaped – Aspasia(white with yellow crown), Geranium(white with orange crown),

Canary Bird(light yellow with orange-yellow crown), Laurent Coster(white with orange-yellow crown),

Red Guard(orange-yellow with orange-red crown), Jellyfish(white with orange-red crown),

Elvira(white with a yellow crown and an orange border); jonquiliformes – Campernelli(bright yellow);

tubular – Glory of Noordwijk(yellow), Godolphin(dark yellow),

Daisy Shafer(white with yellow tube), Rembrandt-Emperor(white with yellow tube).

Look at photos of daffodil varieties that are very popular among gardeners:

Vegetative method of propagation of daffodils and how to store the bulbs

Varietal daffodils reproduce only vegetatively. The seed method is used when breeding new varieties. Vegetative propagation of daffodils is based on the separation of daughter bulbs from the multivertex bulb, which already have their own bottoms and are only slightly connected on one side to the mother. When separating babies, in order not to further injure the mother’s bulb, only those that break off easily are alienated. If the daughter bulbs are not completely separated with this method of propagating daffodils, you can cut them off with part of the common bottom. The reproductive capacity of daffodils is not a constant value, depending on many factors, including biological characteristics varieties, meteorological characteristics of the season, storage conditions of the bulbs, as well as agricultural technology. Many modern varieties have a coefficient vegetative propagation commercial bulbs does not exceed 2.0-2.6, which is clearly not enough. You can increase it by making shallow cuts at the bottom. To propagate daffodils, the prepared bulbs are laid out in a warm, ventilated room with a temperature of 18-20 degrees so that they do not touch each other. After 1.5-2 months, up to 10 or more small bulbs form on the wounded surface. At good care they will bloom in 3 years.

A fairly productive method of propagating daffodils is by mechanically dividing large bulbs into parts and growing the babies that are formed in the axils of the storage scales at the bottom.

Daffodils can be propagated by paired scales. For this, large bulbs (4-6cm) are selected, dug up somewhat earlier than usual. For 7-10 days they are dried at a temperature of 19-20 degrees. Then they are cleaned of roots, covering scales and disinfected in a 0.2% solution of benlate, basezol or benomyl for 30 minutes. Disinfected bulbs are cut vertically into 8 parts (segments), having previously removed the upper part of the bulb. Each segment, in turn, is divided into paired scales with a common piece of the bottom. Optimal are paired scales whose weight exceeds 1g.

How to store narcissus bulbs to ensure good germination? The prepared scales are disinfected in the same solution as the bulbs, poured into plastic bags, after mixing with wet perlite or peat, tie tightly and store at a temperature of 18-20 degrees. At proper storage daffodil bulbs, after 12-16 weeks, bulbs form between the scales at the bottom and near the base of the scales. In October-November they are ready for planting. They are separated from the scales, pickled in a 0.2% benlate solution for 20 minutes and planted in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio (3:1). In winter, boxes with bulbs are kept in a cool place with a temperature of 5-10 degrees. In the second year of cultivation, the bulbs increase in size and their weight reaches 12-20g. They are grown in open ground conditions.

Forcing daffodil bulbs at home

To force daffodils at home, it is best to take bulbs of early or mid-early varieties with white or bright tones of flowers.

For forcing daffodils, the following varieties of bulbs are used:

Narcissus poetic, or real (Narcisus poeticus L.). Homeland - Central and Southern Europe. It is distinguished by linear leaves, the flower arrow is always one color. The flower is pure white, fragrant, the crown along the edges is red, wavy. The bulb is large.

Tazett (N. Tazetta L.). Found in Southern Europe, North Africa, Asia Minor, China, Japan. With linear leaves, multicolor (4-20 flowers) flower arrow. There are forms with a white flower and a yellow crown, a yellow flower and a white crown, simple and double. The bulb is large.

Jonkilly (N. Jonquilla L.). From Southwestern Europe, Northwestern Africa. The leaves are cylindrical, on the flower arrow there are 2-6 strongly fragrant, bright yellow flowers with a jagged crown. The bulb is small. At the end of August or beginning of September, well-developed bulbs are planted (poetic and tazetta-shaped - 3 each, jonquill-shaped - 6-8 pieces each) in pots with a diameter of 14 cm with compost soil and river sand, completely immersed in the soil, leaving only a long neck above the surface. Then the pots are transferred to a frost-free room with a low temperature, watered, placed closely next to each other, and covered with a 10 cm layer of soil.

Daffodil bulbs differ from hyacinth and tulip bulbs in that among them there are both single-vertex and multi-vertex bulbs, so you need to stock up on a sufficient number of single-vertex bulbs. How to do it? If you dig up some of the daffodils every year, and not once every 5-6 years, as I and my flower grower friends do, then single-topped bulbs will be enough for forcing. You just need to not get carried away and dig up all the daffodils every year - with annual digging they begin to reproduce worse. Sometimes I use it. For forcing and double-peaked bulbs.

The technology for forcing daffodils consists of several stages. Plants intended for propagation have their leaves removed at the end of July, without waiting until aboveground part will fade. Then the bulbs are sorted and the most attractive and largest, approximately 4 cm in diameter, are selected from the single-vertex ones. They are stored in a barn or basement at a temperature of about 17 °C until the beginning of October. As soon as the roots appear, it’s time to plant the daffodils. Plant the bulbs in pots. Can be planted in any container (at least 12 cm high) with drainage holes.

The following substrate is usually used for planting: ordinary soil from the garden mixed with sawdust. Some gardeners use only sawdust, and daffodils are easily driven out.

Fill the pots with substrate to 2/3 of their height, and then plant 5 bulbs in each pot. The top of the bulbs should be slightly higher than the edge of the pot. Add substrate to the pots, water them and bury them in the area. The planting is covered with sand or earth - maybe peat - in a layer of 20 cm. With the onset of cold weather, they are covered with leaves, spruce branches or peat - a layer is also about 20 cm, and roofing felt is placed on top.

You can place the pots in any cool place outside, as long as it is not flooded with water. Then ordinary film will be useful for covering under the container with the bulbs. You can lay branches of spruce or pine on it, place containers with daffodils on the branches, and cover it with straw - mice, which will certainly live in the straw, are not afraid of daffodils; they are poisonous to mice. Or you can cover it well with spruce or pine branches.

The bulbs need two and a half to three months to take root. In mid-January, the pots are dug up and placed for one or two days in a cool room (in the basement, on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator) at a temperature of 10 °C, wrapping the pots in black paper. After two days, water the daffodils. Then they will be exposed to light at a temperature no higher than 12–15 °C, for example in a glazed loggia. At higher temperatures, the stems of daffodils become very elongated; they need to be supported. And the flowers will be small. A month after the pots are brought out into the light, the daffodils should bloom.

It has been noticed that if daffodils are driven out after January, they don’t even have to be kept in the light, and they will bloom beautifully.

Daffodils do not need feeding during forcing, but they need to be watered often. It is advisable that the leaves do not get wet.

Daffodils of very early varieties can be driven into more early dates. With later forcing, the forcing time is reduced, but the plants may be greatly affected in growth, and then they will need supports.

After forcing, daffodil bulbs are planted in the garden bed in May. IN this year they do not produce leaves. For re-forcing, they are grown for three to four years until required size, digging up the bulbs every year.

Growing daffodils in open ground: planting bulbs and caring for flowers (with photos and videos)

Before planting daffodils in open ground, it is recommended to treat the bulbs with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate or the fungicide “Hom” (40 g per 5 liters of water), this is more effective.

The planting depth of the bulbs depends on the size of the bulbs and ranges from 12 to 20 cm, sometimes up to 25 cm for the largest bulbs.

The average planting depth is 15 cm, on heavy soils - 12, on light soils - 17, bulbs for children - 10 cm from the bottom. When planting daffodils in open ground, for ease of care, a distance of 10–12 cm should be maintained between the bulbs in the row. With such a dense planting, the bulbs turn out to be larger; with sparse planting, they produce more children.

After planting daffodil bulbs, the ground is mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 3–4 cm. When the soil freezes to 4–5 cm, the daffodils are additionally covered with foliage with a layer of 20 cm. When growing and caring for daffodils, do not forget that plants freeze more often on light, dry soils, than on heavy and wet ones.

The video “Planting Daffodils” shows how to place the bulbs in the garden bed:

In the spring, after the snow melts, the cover of the daffodils is removed, and the mulch layer is left.

One of the conditions for growing daffodils is the correct choice of site. Groundwater should not be higher than 50–60 cm, otherwise, in seasons with heavy rainfall, the root tips of daffodils may die off, which will lead to poor growth.

Daffodils are shade-tolerant, but in illuminated areas the quality of their flowers and bulbs is much higher. When growing daffodils in open ground, they adapt well to any local conditions. Plants can grow in a flower bed, under the canopy of trees, on a lawn or lawn. Daffodils can grow without transplanting for 4–5 years. They should be replanted when they grow strongly, forming large nests of bulbs.

Daffodils are undemanding to soil; they can be grown on any garden soil, but most suitable loamy soil with sufficient nutrition and a neutral reaction.

To increase the nutrient content, it is necessary to add compost and humus. Daffodils do not tolerate manure, so it can only be applied to the previous crop. It is recommended to liming the soil a year before planting the bulbs: add 200 g of fluff lime per 1 m2 or dolomite flour, A wood ash, which helps reduce soil acidity, is applied every year in the spring when plants appear at the rate of 1 cup per 1 m2.

There are usually two feedings. The first - during the budding period: 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate is diluted per 10 liters of water, consuming a solution of 5 liters per 1 m2. The second feeding is carried out during the beginning of flowering: 1 teaspoon of nitrophoska, “Gumatakaliya” for garden flowers and “Intermaga” for flowers and ornamental crops(solution consumption – up to 5 l/1 m2).

Liquid fertilizers can be replaced with dry ones, especially in rainy summers, while carrying out only one fertilizing in early spring - scatter fertilizers per 1 m2: 1 teaspoon each of superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea, “Potassium humate” for garden flowers and 1 tbsp. spoon of wood ash.

The soil of the area for planting daffodils is prepared in the summer or at least a month before planting the bulbs, so that it has time to settle. The soil is dug up to a depth of 35 cm, then 3-4 kg of compost and peat are added, and on heavy soils - a bucket of river sand and rotted humus. As for mineral fertilizers, apply 2 tbsp per 1 m2. spoons of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and Intermag for flowers and ornamental crops (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water, solution consumption - up to 5 l/1 m2). Then they dig it a second time to embed the fertilizer to a depth of 10–12 cm. This can also be done with an iron rake. The plot is left in this form until autumn, i.e., until the bulbs are planted.

Daffodil bulbs are planted when the heat subsides - at the end of August, during September. Before planting, the bulbs are thoroughly inspected and all suspicious ones with spots, soft and damaged are removed.

If the weather is hot and dry in May and June, then daffodils should be watered from the time they grow until the leaves begin to wilt. Watering after flowering promotes the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb. Bulbs are usually dug up in July, when the leaves and roots have dried.

If the bulbs are not dug up, then after drying the leaves are cut off and the soil is loosened with a rake, preventing weeds from developing. In the second half of August, if the weather is dry, be sure to water, as root growth begins at this time.

The photo of planting and caring for daffodils shows how to grow these flowers:

Fighting diseases and pests of daffodils

Daffodils, compared to other bulbous crops, suffer less from diseases and pests. The most dangerous pests are the daffodil fly and the bulbous hoverfly. By appearance, lifestyle and the nature of the damage they cause are similar to each other. The larvae are harmful. Having penetrated the bulb through the top, bottom or mechanically damaged areas of tissue, they penetrate its succulent parts with passages. In a severely damaged bulb, only the walls remain; the inside turns into a black, rotting mass.

Control measures. To reduce the degree of infection, during the growing season it is recommended to periodically spray the plants with a 0.3% solution of karbofos. Instead of spraying, band application of granulated bazudin (0.3 g/m) into the soil is effective. A simple agricultural technique – loosening the surface of the area after harvesting the leaves – will also make it difficult for larvae to penetrate the bulb.

The stem nematode, a microscopic filament-shaped pest, is also widespread. Overwinters in bulbs, in soil, and on plant debris. Nematodes lay eggs in plant tissue, penetrating the bulbs through the bottom or stomata of leaves, and larvae hatch there, which, like adult nematodes, feed on plant sap. Daffodils affected by the nematode are stunted in growth, the leaves bend and thicken at the bottom, gradually turn yellow and dry out. White spots appear on the bulbs. When cutting the bulbs, you can see that the internal tissues have a loose structure of brown or gray. The scales of the affected bulb do not fit tightly together, so it becomes soft to the touch. Due to the growth of storage internal scales, the external scales crack. With severe infection, the bottom of the bulbs becomes rotten and falls off, the bulb dies.

Control measures with stem nematodes - agrotechnical, involving the introduction of crop rotation, in which daffodils can be returned to their original place no earlier than after 4-5 years, and in the interim, plants affected by the nematode should not be grown on it. Treatment of bulbs gives good results hot water(43-45 degrees) for 2-3 hours. The soil where daffodils infected with the nematode grew is disinfected with Milon (60g/m2) 30-40 days before planting. Protects daffodils from nematodes and sowing calendula or tagedes between them, the root secretions of which attract pests and kill them.

Root bulb mite- a pest that is widespread everywhere. It affects bulbs during the growing season and during storage. Settling on the bulb, the mite wears away the bottom, which turns into a rotten mass. Having penetrated the bulb, the mite feeds on the scales. Affected areas can be easily identified by yellow-brown stripes, lines on the scales and mealy secretions of the mite.

Control measures. To protect the bulbs from mite damage during storage, it is necessary to disinfect the storage facility with sulfur dioxide (80-100 g/m3) before loading, maintain the air humidity in it no higher than 70%, pickle the bulbs with a 0.3% solution of one of the preparations: foundationazol, rogor, cidial, basadine, carbicrone for 20 minutes.

The most common disease is fusarium bulb rot, which mainly affects daffodils during storage, and is less common in field conditions. The leaves of diseased plants turn yellow and are relatively easily pulled out. The roots of the bulbs rot and fall off the bottom. A white coating (fungal mycelium) is visible on the bottom and scales. The fungus penetrates deeply into the tissues of the bulbs, which soften and turn brown. External signs of disease on bulbs in storage are manifested in the fact that the tissues in the area of ​​the bottom and bases of the scales soften, turn brown, chocolate-brown, and sometimes brick-red. Rot gradually spreads upward along the scales. Fusarium most often develops when bulbs are dug up late, affecting them during storage, especially if the bulbs were dug up in wet weather and were poorly dried before storing or, conversely, exposed to high temperatures(24-27C) and direct sunlight for a long time. Having discovered bulbs sick with fusarium, you must immediately disinfect healthy ones with foundationazole or topsin 0.2% solution for 20 minutes. During the growing season they carry out preventive treatments plants with fungicides: benlate, basezol at a concentration of 0.2% or captan at a concentration of 0.5% with a working fluid flow rate of 80 to 120 ml/m2.

Gray rot– a disease that actively develops in spring in cold rainy weather, especially in low areas with heavy soils. The plant becomes infected in the field, and the disease progresses while the bulbs are stored in cold and damp conditions. The bases of the leaves are affected, especially on one side, where brown depressed spots form, which subsequently grow. The leaves turn yellow from bottom to top and dry out before flowering. When there is excess moisture, a gray coating appears on dead areas of the leaves, small spots on the flowers, and wet rot on the bulbs. Black sclerotia form on the surface of the affected tissues.

Control measures. When the first outbreaks of the disease appear, daffodils are sprayed with captan or benlate at a concentration of 0.15-0.2%. They are processed several times with an interval of 8-10 days. Sick bulbs are rejected and destroyed.

Excessive doses organic fertilizers provoke the appearance of sclerotial rot. The leaves of affected plants turn yellow, wither, and then completely dry out. Under the influence of the pathogen, the bulbs soften, become covered with abundant mycelium, radiating out in the form of long white threads, and die.

Control measures: early excavation, deep plowing of infected areas, correct crop rotation, destruction of affected plants.

Penicillosis can occur in low, damp areas. In diseased plants, leaves and peduncles are deformed; light yellow spots of various sizes and shapes form on the leaves near the surface of the ground. The affected areas soften, rot and become covered with blue-green spores of the pathogen. On bulbs, penicillosis is easily detected by spots covered with bluish-greenish sporulation of the fungus. The disease develops very intensively during storage on poorly dried bulbs at high relative humidity.

Control measures: reducing relative air humidity to 60-65%, ventilating the storage area, dusting the affected bulbs with a mixture of sulfur and polycarbacin in a 1:1 ratio.

Stagonosporosis– develops in early spring during cold weather. On the leaves, first in the upper part, then along the entire leaf blade along the main vein, round or oval-elongated spots appear. A chlorotic (lighter) zone is visible around the spots. As they dry out, pycnidia (containers of asexual fungal spores) form on some of the spots, clearly visible to the naked eye, small, black, convex, arranged randomly or, more often, in zones. Stagonospora blight is very rare on bulbs. The disease is clearly visible 4-8 weeks before the natural death of leaves begins.

Control measures: at the first signs of disease, plants are sprayed with fungicides (0.5% Bordeaux mixture, 0.4% polycarbacine or 0.3% figon, etc.). After 10-12 days, the treatment is repeated.

Daffodils are also affected by viral diseases of various natures. Strokes and stripes (light, yellow, silver) appear on the leaves, and irregularly shaped spots lighter than the main tone appear on the flowers. There are no visually detectable symptoms on the bulbs.

Control measures. The disease is extremely dangerous; its spread can only be prevented by digging up and destroying diseased plants.

Prevention from diseases and pests involves several techniques. Optimal doses of fertilizers must be added to the soil. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen contributes to the development of fusarium, potash fertilizers increase resistance to it. Daffodils cannot be planted on an infected area for 5 years. The boxes in which the bulbs are stored must be disinfected. Weak and diseased bulbs must be destroyed immediately after digging. Bulbs must be promptly cleaned of old scales and roots, stored at a temperature no higher than +18 °C and a humidity no higher than 60%.

To combat fungal diseases, before planting, daffodil bulbs must be soaked for half an hour in a solution of the drug “Maxim”.

A decrease in the number of flowering plants serves as a signal for transplanting daffodils. Immediately after the leaves turn yellow, you can begin digging up the bulbs. It is advisable to do this on time, because the bulbs will quickly begin to root. In addition, late digging of bulbs can reduce their quality.

The dug up bulbs must first be carefully examined, diseased or rotten ones must be removed and destroyed. Healthy bulbs are thoroughly cleaned, sorted by size, washed, disinfected in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and left to dry in the open air in shallow boxes or boxes without access to sunlight. The storage temperature should not be higher than +17 °C, the room must be ventilated frequently.

Which variety should I choose?

You can get confused in the variety of varieties of daffodils.

The selection is in full swing,” Tatyana Evgenievna noted. - Flowers have become very different in both shape and color. Apricot tones, pink and even almost red appeared in the colors of daffodils. Classic daffodils - they are called poetic - are still the most fragrant of all groups, but now they are also the most modest in appearance and color.

Double daffodils. Now this group of daffodils is in unprecedented demand among flower growers - they are very elegant! Some flowers have double petals, others have a core. It looks very impressive.

variety "Manly"

Large-crowned daffodils. A very interesting group of narcissists. Sometimes the size of their crown (core) is almost equal to the size of the flower. New varieties tend to have contrasting colors. For example, a bright orange crown against a background of yellow petals.

Variety "Bantam"

Split crown daffodils. This is a little-known group of narcissists, but what an unusual one! The name literally translates as “cut crown.”

These daffodils have a dissected core, as if the daffodil is without it at all, but in two petal skirts.

The varieties that are especially interesting in this group are: “Palmares” (the core is soft pink against the background of white petals), “Changing Colors” (changes color during the season), and this season’s new variety “Waltz” has an apricot-colored crown.

variety "Waltz"

Tubular daffodils. Their flower core is elongated like a tube.

This group of daffodils is very well illustrated by the Mount Hood variety, where the flower looks so amazing as if it were made of porcelain.

variety "Mount Hood"

Daffodils. This group includes multi-flowered daffodils. Their flowers are not large, but there are many of them.

They can be with terry centers, erect or drooping, as, for example, in the “Thalia” variety.

variety "Thalia"

Botanical daffodils. They have tiny flowers, which are especially good for landscaping alpine hills, for planting in the foreground of flower beds, between stones.

There is an amazing variety “Rip van Winkley”, whose flowers are double, tiny, yellow, resemble stars and look great. This variety of daffodils is one of the first to bloom and gives the garden a sunny shade in any weather.

variety "Rip Van Winkley"

Care: cut off the leaves - daffodils will not bloom

Daffodils are not at all capricious in their care, if only because they do not need to be dug up every year.

Daffodils grow in one place for 4 - 5 years, and then they need to be dug up in order to plant them. Over time, the bulbs multiply, become larger, then they simply do not have enough space, and they begin to suppress each other. In order to enjoy flowering year after year, the bulbs must be replanted.

Daffodils are unpretentious to the soil: they grow quite well on loam, sandy, and peat soils.

The only caveat: if you have heavy soil, then when planting it is recommended to add a little sand or peat, which, when moisture stagnates (especially during the rainy season), will protect the bulbs from rotting. The sand will act as drainage.

As the daffodils grow, they need to be fed four times a season. In the first three feedings, complete mineral fertilizer: during germination, during the formation of buds and during the flowering period. The last fertilizing is done after the end of flowering: phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied.

But not all summer residents know that by cutting off the leaves of daffodils after flowering, they will no longer receive abundant flowering next year.

When the leaves die, nutrients accumulate in the bulb, which is necessary for further flowering,” explained Tatyana Evgenievna. - Therefore, the leaves should not be trimmed. If you are afraid of the unsightly appearance of faded daffodils, try, before they bloom, to plant mature seedlings of annuals nearby or, for example, plant daylilies and peonies nearby in advance. You can remove the foliage only when it completely dries out and turns yellow.

And do not forget to remove the flowers immediately after flowering. If you leave them, the plant will spend its energy on producing seeds, which will take away the strength of the bulb and will not allow it to ripen.

BY THE WAY

Daffodils should be planted, like all bulbous plants, when the soil temperature drops to +10 degrees. It is at this temperature that ideal rooting of the bulb occurs. If you plant daffodil bulbs at a later date, you need to deepen the bulbs a little more and lightly cover the planting site to prevent freezing.

ON A NOTE

On autumn days, in addition to tulips and daffodils, you can also plant other bulbous flowers. For example, bright hyacinths, botanical irises, decorative onions, muscari, hazel grouse, crocuses.

ATTENTION! COMPETITION!

Send a photo of your harvest - and win a prize! from your harvest - and win

Beautiful days of Indian summer - it's time to harvest from your favorite acres. Komsomolskaya Pravda is also interested in what you, dear summer residents, have grown in your gardens! Surely your grandchildren have already taken pictures sitting astride a huge pumpkin, tried to launch a rocket in the shape of a zucchini into space, or simply your whole family laughed together at a funny carrot with arms and legs and, of course, did not forget to film this miracle with a camera.

Send the most interesting photos to the photo competition “My Wonderful Harvest” before October 5 to the address: 220005 Minsk, PO Box 192, or by e-mail: [email protected], and we will all admire your achievements together! In a letter, share your secrets of growing miracle vegetables.. Every week (September 21, 28, October 5 and 12) we will select a semi-finalist who will receive 5 books from the “My Wonderful Dacha” collection as a gift, and will give the winner of the “Komsomolskaya Pravda” competition the entire collection of books from 30 volumes!

Narcissus, a flower well known to gardeners. The beauty and tenderness of this flower were sung not only by poets of the East. In nature, it grows in Mediterranean countries.

Scientifically, the narcissus is known as Narcissus Poeticus, which is Greek for “to stupefy” and “poetic.” The first word is associated with natural poisonous properties plants. The second word complements its connection with the poetic glorification of its charm.

Description, peculiarities

Narcissus is a versatile plant in the garden, on summer cottage, in the park. Numerous varieties of daffodils have different flowering periods, using this characteristic you can create continuously flowering zones.

Daffodils are perennial plants belonging to the genus of monocots of the Amaryllidaceae family. Plant structure:

• The underground part is represented by a bulb shaped like a ball or oval, depending on the variety, with a lobe of annual roots.
• The ground part has leaves extending from the neck of the bulb and a stem, smooth, devoid of leaves, which can end in one flower or an inflorescence of several flowers collected in the shape of an umbrella. The number of leaves ranges from 2 to 6.
• At the end of flowering, the flower and stem are removed from all varieties of narcissus, leaving the leaves until they naturally die. This rule should be followed, since during this period the bulb accumulates nutrients, the source of which is the leaves.

Important. Narcissus bulbs have two renewal buds, which are at different stages of development, which ensures its continuous growth.

• The bulbs of all varieties of daffodils are covered with several rows of scales that have a fleshy structure. Nutrients are deposited in them and contain a mucous mass.
• As the bulb grows, it accumulates scales that live on this underground narcissus bud for up to four years. Over time, the scales of the outer row die off, forming a protective shell of the bulb.
• Under the dense shell of scales, babies are formed - planting material for propagating daffodils. As they develop, they become independent plants. It is recommended to separate children only after their obvious separation.

Important. If the baby narcissus bulbs are not separated from the mother bulb, then they will bloom along with it, laying down their flower arrows. Young bulbs form renewal buds within two years.

Varieties and types

In our gardens there are a huge number of varieties of narcissus, obtained by breeders from wild varieties and existing hybrids. Currently, taking as a basis the shape and color of the perianth lobes and crown, all varieties of daffodils have been united under the common name “hybrid daffodils” and divided into 13 groups: 12 groups represent garden hybrids, and the 13th group includes all types and forms of flowers , growing in nature.

Varieties and species in modern classification:

1. Tubular - characterized by one flower on a peduncle, the tube is equal to or slightly longer than the length of the perianth. They have a white, yellow or two-colored perianth and tube. They are classified as early flowering.

2. Large-crowned - early-flowering varieties with single flowers, the crown is smaller than the perianth and is approximately ½ of its length. The variety has the richest combination of colors. It has a wide variety of flowers, with the edge of the crown shaped like a wave, an elegant corrugation or an airy curve, giving the flower a resemblance to lace.

3. Small-crowned - have a small crown, making up only 1/3 of the height of the perianth. Peduncle with one flower. The flowering period is later than that of daffodils of groups 1 and 2.

4. Terry varieties of daffodils have double perianths and crowns of varieties of split-crowned daffodils. They can be one color or combine two different colors. They have peduncles that can end in one or more flowers.

5. Triandrusaceae - early-blooming daffodils. They have several flowers on a peduncle, with perianth lobes slightly curved back. Hanging flowers are white and yellow.

6. Cyclamen-like varieties - early blooming, with one flower on a short peduncle growing at an acute angle to it. The perianth petals are strongly curved in the opposite direction from the crown. The peduncle is shortened, the crown has an elongated, very narrow shape.

7. Jonquils - late bloomers, with several flowers on a high peduncle. Their number ranges from 5 to 8. The perianth petals are horizontally spread or slightly bent back. The crown has a cup-shaped shape, slightly exceeding its length. The flowers have a slight scent.

8. Taceta-shaped varieties of daffodils have several flowers on a dense, thickened peduncle. Three or more round flowers. The plant has a strong specific aroma. The color of the flowers is white, yellow or cream.

9. Poetic variety - late flowering daffodils with a very large single flower on a peduncle. The perianth has snow-white lobes, the crown of the flower is flat in the shape of a disk, has a green or yellow center bordered by a red edge. The flower exudes a light aroma.

10. Daffodils N. bulbocodium(Bulbocodium) - varieties with one flower on a peduncle no more than 15 cm high. The perianth lobes are not developed, almost absent, the crown is bell-shaped and quite large. They do not tolerate winter well and need shelter.

11. Split-crowned daffodils are varieties with one flower at the top of the peduncle. The crown is divided almost in half and fits tightly to the perianth. The color palette is very diverse.

12. Other hybrids of daffodils of different varieties that do not fit into any of the groups.

13.Daffodils of wild species, their forms and hybrids.

Planting material

The following can be used as planting material when growing daffodils:

1. Corm purchased in a store or grown on the plot;

In any case, a careful examination and culling of low-quality bulbs is carried out.

Selected bulbs are sprayed with a fungicide solution or kept in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. Before planting, the bulbs are well dried.

2. Bulb plots;

Strong, healthy, fairly large bulbs are selected for division. The prepared planting bud is divided into four parts. For this procedure, use a sharp, clean knife. It is necessary that each lobe has a part of the bottom and an element of the top. It is recommended to first treat the resulting shares with an antiseptic and then soak them in a growth stimulator solution. Planting of slices in open ground is carried out after 1-1.5 months. When planting in autumn, the bed is protected with shelter.

3. Seeds.

The seed method involves the use of freshly harvested seeds that are still covered with juice. Seeds of daffodil varieties are sown in a container where they remain for two years. The planting depth in the ground should be approximately 3-4 times the diameter of the seed. This is about 1-1.5 cm. After planting in open ground, flowering will occur only after three years. Propagating daffodil varieties in this way does not guarantee the reproduction of their varietal properties. Planting with seeds is used in breeding for the propagation of species varieties of daffodils.

Agrotechnics of cultivation

To ensure long-term flowering of daffodils and reduce the risk of diseases, you should pay attention to some subtleties of agricultural technology when growing them:

• The landing site should be well lit, easily warmed by the sun during the day, protected from strong winds;
• The area should be level, with a slight slope, ensuring good drainage of excess moisture;
• The soil on the site should be loose, pre-fertilized so that daffodils can grow in one place for at least 5-6 years. It is preferable to allocate an area with light loamy or sandy loam soil for the daffodil bed;
• Using crop rotation, you should choose a place for daffodils where potatoes used to grow, various varieties cabbage, carrots, beets, peas, beans;
• The best time to plant daffodils is late summer. Planting bulbs should be completed with the onset of cold October days;
• The bulbs should be planted at a distance of approximately 20 cm from each other to allow the full development of the daughter bulbs;

• The area with planted bulbs should be covered with peat mulch, leaf soil, and straw for the winter.

Important. Flower growers and breeders have found that daffodil bulbs take root within three weeks. Spring planting do not have time to go through the full growing season, which is why daffodils do not bloom during the planting season.

Plantings of daffodils are fed in the first days of spring, before the snow melts. Fertilizers containing nitrogen are scattered over the melted snow, which allows nutrients to gradually flow to the roots of the plant, stimulating their growth.

Z have a significant effect foliar feeding, which involve spraying seedlings with solutions of microelements together with macroelements.

Rules for caring for daffodil plantings include timely watering. However, plants do not like too much moisture accumulation; this can cause rotting of the bulb neck.

Important. During the flowering period, carefully inspect the daffodil plantings, promptly removing affected plants, as well as wilted inflorescences. The plantings are fertilized by applying fertilizer once every two weeks throughout the growing season.

Diseases and pests

Daffodils can be affected by a number of viral and fungal diseases characteristic of the bulbous plant order. Most often, damage to bulbs by harmful bacteria and microorganisms occurs when the basic procedures for digging, storing and planting bulbs are not followed, or when disinfection of planting material is neglected.

Choosing your favorite variety and following simple but mandatory rules of agricultural technology will allow you to get luxurious flower beds of daffodils in combination with other types of flowers and plants.

- is no longer an outlandish overseas flower. It is found in almost all gardens, and it is not difficult to grow, since it is well adapted to our harsh climate. And although there are many varieties that bloom together with or much later than most traditional tulip varieties, we still associate the arrival of early spring with delicate and fragrant daffodils. Daffodils belong to the amaryllis family. In nature, up to 60 of them are known, and in cultivation there are already several thousand varieties, but every year some interesting new items appear.

The first in the gallery of new products is the Taurus variety, which belongs to the group of split-crown daffodils. Its large, split crown changes color within a few days from bright yellow with a pink rim to almost completely pink! It can compete well with the snow-white Trepolo variety with a bright yellow-orange central star, or the Apple Pie, Apricot Whirl, Valdrome or Walz varieties. The height of the Trepolo daffodil is average, 30-40 cm, the rest - 40-45 cm. It is impossible not to mention the beautiful new variety Sunny Side Up - its chic corrugated lemon-yellow crown will not leave anyone indifferent! The variety blooms quite late, height 35-45 cm.

Among the large-crowned daffodils there is also a new item - the Professor Einstein daffodil with a bright orange crown in the center of the flower. Look how solemnly and gracefully he presents his beauty against the background of red imperial tulips, which only emphasize their aristocratic origin! Flowering is quite early, height 35-40 cm. Or, for example, the Pink Charm variety is pure white with a light creamy-pink crown, which over time acquires an increasingly brighter pink hue. Very good material for various floral compositions and good weather resistance. The height of the flower is slightly higher than average, 40-45 cm. Flowering usually occurs in the middle of the season. The Sentinel variety is also very beautiful in its own way, with a very large pink crown. The height of the peduncles is 35-40 cm, flowering is mid-late.

Or maybe you'll prefer the tubular variety Peaches and Cream, which also changes the color of the center part from beige-pink to bright orange-pink? An excellent choice for curbs, rock slides, and retaining walls. Next to it or against the backdrop of viols and muscari, the lime-lemon variety Snow Frills with an elegant white center or white center will look quite stylish. yellow variety Salome. Or, for example, a completely new variety, which does not yet even have a registered trade name and is shown at exhibitions under the name KV12. Its crown is salmon-pink against a white central part and pale yellow petals. All varieties are quite stocky, only 25-35 cm high. This makes them good candidates for planting in rockeries, rock gardens, or simply in separate groups on the lawn or on gentle slopes. Flowering is mid-late.

Standing apart among the trumpet daffodils is the chic, delicately lemon-lime large-flowered variety Pineapple Prince with an elegant white rim along the edge of the large central tube. It blooms later, it is quite tall, the height of the peduncles is 45-55 cm. An excellent cut! There are other worthy new varieties, for example, Topolino, W.P. Milner, Wisley. They are a little smaller in height, and their flowers are noticeably smaller, but look how elegant they look in a flowerbed or in a composition in a floor vase!

Among the double daffodils there is simply a huge addition - this is the tall yellow variety Clear Day with an orange-pink terry center, and the lemon yellow Fashion Parade with a darker center but lighter tips of the petals, and the large-flowered variety Acropolis. It is, so to speak, densely doubled and almost completely snow-white with a small orange “edge.” And how beautiful is the peach-beige variety Angelica with an open orange center! Standing a little apart is the shorter and perhaps not as large, but no less beautiful snow-white daffodil Gay Challenger. Which one is better is up to you, our dear reader, to choose. For me, they are all beautiful in their own way and will be very appropriate in various parts of your garden.

A special group consists of daffodils with a double center. For example, the Wave variety has a very original flower shape. This is a new product for the last two years. It has a beautiful and very terry center, consisting of bright yellow and white densely folded inner petals. The Modern Art variety has the same or almost the same flower shape. It has been on our market for much longer, although it can also be considered a novelty of the 21st century. He has a very beautiful combination lemon yellow petals and dark orange center. Both varieties look very good cut. I highly recommend it! Height in open ground is 35-45 cm, in closed ground it may be slightly higher. Flowering mid-late.

Of the new products among cyclamen-like daffodils, I would note the very graceful and elegant variety Cotinga with small white petals bent back and soft salmon centers or, for example, the Sailboat variety with soft lemon centers. Like all daffodils in this group, these varieties bloom quite early and are low, only 15-25 cm in height. The low height and abundant early flowering make it possible to combine this variety with very early tulips, for example the Plaisir tulip.

I would like to say a few words about the very beautiful, but rare or simply unknown variety Irene Copeland. It belongs to the terry varieties and has not been a novelty for a long time. But look how amazingly elegant it looks next to a regular office walkway! Imagine how these daffodils will bloom at your edge or along the entire perimeter of your site!

There are also new items in the camp of poetic daffodils. Recently, a beautiful large-flowered variety, Margaret Mitchell, appeared on the market, with a very beautiful lemon-yellow center and a delicate red edging. It will look great both on the site and as a cut! Its height is 40-45 cm, flowering later.

For lovers of multi-flowered daffodils, I can recommend the rich yellow Martinette variety with a bright orange center. The number of flowers on its peduncle can vary from 3 to 5. The height of the peduncle greatly depends on the light and planting location and can reach 35-60 cm. Flowering in the middle of the season. The taceta narcissus Ziva has even more flowers on one peduncle. Its soft white caps on fairly high, 40-45 cm, peduncles can have more than ten beautiful flowers! It blooms quite late, so it can be combined with many mid- and late-flowering varieties of tulips.

The use of daffodils is very universal - from planting in regular park flowerbeds to growing in alpine roller coaster, in mixborders and patio containers. And how beautiful they look when cut! Daffodils will look very stylish both in large floor vases near your home or cafe, and in ordinary neat pots or flowerpots near your gazebo. It is perfectly acceptable to simply plant them under a tree or along the foundation of your garden house, steps or hedges. They will also look appropriate in large flat floor vases on pedestrian alleys and near artificial ponds.

Can you imagine a whole blue river of blue Armenian muscari (Muscari armenicum) with banks of bright yellow or white Peeping Tom daffodils? Moreover, this “river” appears completely unexpectedly and just as unexpectedly disappears after 2-3 weeks. Compare the two photos below. They were taken just 8 days apart. And in a couple of days, bright tulips of the Rob Verlinden variety will bloom there and this colorful show will last at least another 8-10 days!

This idea can be used with other, later varieties. For example, yellow daffodils of the Quail variety and the later Muscari variety Bicolor will go well together. And finally, can these varieties be mixed evenly? and then your show will last more than a month! In subsequent years, this effect will only intensify, since these crops should not be disturbed for several years and they will only grow! Can you imagine if, interspersed with muscari, you also add bright crocuses that bloom much earlier? I assure you that an abundance of bright, cheerful colors is guaranteed for many, many weeks! You just have to take a little care of your “river” or self-assembled carpet - at least occasionally water it in dry weather, occasionally feed it and remove faded flowers.

And how effectively they highlight and emphasize the beauty of mixed park or garden borders, neatly trimmed bushes or even ordinary park benches! Here, for example, is the Modoc variety. It will surely stir up your pleasant nostalgic or, conversely, romantic memories. If you prefer low-growing varieties, Jetfire and Itzim are ideal varieties. Daffodils also look very elegant and stylish against the backdrop of ordinary, but well-trimmed and well-groomed bright green lawns or silvery conifers.

This culture goes well with other small-bulbous plants: Scylla, Pushkinia, anemone and Chionodox. The Replete variety and the dark blue Chionodoxa Magic Blue look beautiful together! Medium-sized or dwarf daffodils are an excellent pair for blue, red-brown or burgundy violas, as well as early low-growing tulips. They will look very stylish with bright white arabis or white and pink saxifrage.

Daffodils are not too picky about the soil. Light to medium loams with good drainage are most suitable for them. They do not tolerate fresh manure well and prefer soil that is close to neutral in acidity. Therefore, it is possible to apply rotted manure, compost, and also carry out liming only in advance of the previous crop. The soil for planting is dug up to a depth of 30-35 cm, adding coarse sand, peat and superphosphate as necessary. Before planting, it is better to dig up the soil again, removing sprouted weeds.

The planting depth for bulbous plants is usually three times the diameter of the bulb, counting from the bottom. It also depends on local climatic conditions (winter hardiness zone), soil type and the purpose of your planting. In harsher climates, the bulbs are planted a little deeper. Between the bulbs a distance is maintained approximately equal to two of its diameters.

In the spring, immediately after the snow melts, daffodils are fed nitrogen fertilizers. If there is hot, dry weather for more than two weeks in spring or summer, then they should be watered generously. After three weeks, it is advisable to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, you can add a little ash.

If there is a need for this, then daffodil bulbs are dug up in July, when the leaves have already dried. If digging is not planned, the dried leaves are carefully removed and, if possible, the soil around the plantings is loosened, preventing wireworms and perennial weeds from developing. As autumn approaches, if the weather is dry, watering may need to be resumed to help the bulbs take root.

It is believed that best time for planting daffodils - from mid-August to the end of September, and in the southern regions - until mid-October. But this is in theory; in practice, everything is usually a little more complicated. That planting site is not ready - dahlias or annual asters are still blooming there, then suddenly it gets very cold and there are long rains. Or there is simply no way to get out to the country on the “right” weekend. And finally there is this magic word“sale”, which for some reason always happens only in the second half of October or even in November!

Plant daffodils when you have the opportunity. Although it is clear that this is best done at positive temperatures. You will not only bring pleasure to yourself and those around you, but you will also simply save from death the innocent bulbs of daffodils, tulips, crocuses and other small-bulbous plants that are already prepared for decommissioning.

It is for the reasons listed above that my many friends and I repeatedly planted daffodils both in November and December at temperatures close to zero, or even at weak negative temperatures, practically in the snow or under a 2-3 mm ice crust, but also under snow. Once I had to plant a mixture of pink-crowned daffodils bought on sale even at -3°C. After raking the snowdrift, I dug a deep enough hole as best I could, covered the bulbs half with snow, half with earth, and again poured a huge snowdrift on top. And what do you think - the next year they bloomed beautifully, although a week and a half later than the other daffodils. So that’s the beauty of it! During flowering, I calmly sorted them by variety and then safely transplanted them to a permanent place.

Good luck with your experiments and unusual solutions in growing these incredibly beautiful and sunny plants!

These bright, cheerful harbingers of spring bloom among the grass of lawns, around ponds, enliven the space under hedges or add formality to a formal border.

If tulips are considered to be a symbol of Holland, then the more moisture-loving daffodils are the absolute favorites of the British. Golden buds of daffodils among the fresh greenery of narrow long leaves can be considered symbols of spring. By choosing the right varieties, middle lane In Russia you can admire daffodils from early to mid-April to early June. Each bulb produces one or more flower stalks topped with one or more flowers. The flowers range from 2.5 to 10 cm in diameter, with a central crown surrounded by six tepals ("petals"), which may be narrow, curled or wide, flat. The color of the perianth varies from greenish and white to various shades of yellow, orange-red or pink. Two-colored daffodils are often found, and in some varieties the crown is paler in color than the petals.

Although most daffodils reach 40-60 cm in height, there are others low grades and dwarf forms, not exceeding 10-20 cm. The basal leaves are more or less belt-shaped, they appear simultaneously with the flowers. After the flowers fade, the leaves begin to lengthen; they should not be removed until at least six weeks after flowering has ended (it is best to wait until they begin to die back on their own). This will allow a mature bulb to form for next year's growth. Most daffodils do well in mass plantings under trees or shrubs; more small varieties Look good on the front of borders or in rock gardens. The most powerful varieties can naturalize among the lawn.

With the exception of true tacetas and some jonquil daffodils, most are fairly cold-tolerant plants. Some, especially small, varieties are suitable for winter forcing in pots or containers.

Trumpet daffodils

The crown is in the form of a long tube, which is equal in length to or exceeds the length of the tepals. As a rule, one flower is formed on a peduncle. Winter hardiness is good. Height - 40-60 cm.

"Arctic Gold"

Beautiful yellow flowers; the edges of the crown are wavy, the tepals overlap with their edges.

"Biscayne «

Variety with yellow flowers.

"Biscayne"

"Bravour"

Tall variety with white “petals” and a yellow tube.

"Dutch Master"

A time-tested golden-yellow hybrid with wide, smooth “petals.”

"Carlton"

A vigorous, profusely flowering plant with creamy yellow flowers and a crown with slightly ruffled edges.

"Daydream"

The variety belongs to the “reverse” daffodils, in which the crown is lighter than the perianth. The "petals" are yellow. The crown is lemon yellow at the beginning of flowering, but after a few days it turns white.

"Feeling Lucky"

An amazing hybrid with a bright red crown and yellow “petals”.

"Feeling Lucky"

"Golden Aura"

Beautiful golden yellow flowers.

"Golden Aura"

"Ice Follies"

The flowers are a vigorous plant with creamy white “petals” surrounding a yellow, wide-opening crown that gradually fades to cream.

"Ice Follies"

"Ipi Tombi"

A hybrid with large flowers with yellow “petals” and a fringed orange crown.

"Irish Minstrel"

"Loch Owskeich"

The flowers are large, with yellow “petals” and an orange crown.

"Loch Owskeich"

"Passionale"

Wide, pointed white “petals” and a long, soft pink crown. The pink color intensifies as it blooms.

"Passionale"

"Pinza"

Daffodils with yellow “petals” and an orange-red crown.

"Pinza"

"Rainbow"

Pure white “petals” and a crown with a pink edge.

"Rainbow"

"Saint Keverne"

The flowers are golden yellow; These daffodils are resistant to root rot.

"Saint Keverne"

"Salome"

Pure white petals and a peachy pink crown that intensifies over time.

"Vulcan"

The “petals” are bright yellow, the crown is orange.

"Vulcan"

Large-crowned daffodils

The most popular class of daffodils, which includes the most varieties. The shape of the crown can be different, but its length must be at least one third of the length of the “petals”, at the same time the crown should not exceed the length of the tepals. Usually there is one flower on the peduncles. Winter hardiness is good. Height - 40-60 cm.

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"Empress of Ireland"

A variety with extremely large white flowers.

"Empress of Ireland"

"Golden Rapture"

Large golden yellow flowers of beautiful shape.

"Golden Rapture"

"Kingscourt"

An excellent resistant variety with rich yellow flowers.

"Kingscourt"

"Little Beauty"

A stunning miniature plant measuring just 15cm tall with creamy 'petals' surrounding a pale yellow tube.

"Little Beauty"

"Little Gem"

An early blooming dwarf hybrid about 15 cm high with small yellow flowers.

"Little Gem"

"Mount Hood"

A vigorous plant with large creamy white flowers.

"Mount Hood"

"Rijnveld's Early Sensation"

An extremely early blooming narcissus with large yellow flowers on stalks about 30 cm high.

"Rijnveld's Early Sensation"

"Spellbinder"

The flowers, when they first bloom, are sulfur-yellow, but gradually turn pale, becoming creamy.

"Spellbinder"

"Ulster Prince"

Golden yellow flowers.

"Ulster Prince"

"W. P. Milner"

Flowers low growing variety very light, creamy yellow, drooping, on peduncles 30 cm high. The variety takes root very well. Due to its origin, this daffodil is sometimes classified as a group of Cyclamenaceae or even Botanical daffodils.

"Bantham"

A variety up to 30 cm high, with bright yellow rounded flowers and a bright orange crown with reddish edges. Great scent.

"Bantham"

Small-crowned daffodils

Varieties of this class are characterized by a short crown, which is no more than one-third the length of the tepals. There is usually one flower on a peduncle. Although there are relatively few varieties in this class, among them you can find an exquisite aroma, the brightest colors and the most elegant flower shape. Small-crowned varieties are among the most frost-resistant daffodils. Height - 40-60 cm.

"Merlin"

Pure white “petals” and a yellow crown with a red edge.

"Merlin"

"Sabine Hay"

Golden “petals” and an orange crown.

"Sabine Hay"

"Segovia"

A strong dwarf hybrid (20 cm in height) with white “petals” and a lemon-yellow crown. Sometimes this variety is classified as Botanical daffodils.

"Verona"

The flowers are white, a dwarf hybrid.

"Verona"

"Xit"

The variety is 18 cm tall. Tiny (4 cm) sparkling white flowers. This variety is somewhat more sensitive to frost than most others.

"Xit"

Double daffodils

Flowers in which the number of tepals exceeds the usual (for daffodils - 6) are considered to be double. Terrying can occur in several ways. For example, some of the stamens are turned into “petals”, and then the crown will be terry. Another option is to increase the number of tepals. At the same time, in some varieties the crown with stamens inside will remain in the center, while in others the entire middle is occupied by “petals” and elements of the crown. The class is very heterogeneous in origin, so there can be either one or several flowers on the peduncle. Winter hardiness varies. Height - 40-60 cm.

"Acropolis"

The flowers have wide “petals” that are pure white, with orange-red crown elements visible in the center.

"Acropolis"

"Cheerfulness"

There are 1-3 small double flowers on the peduncle fragrant flower cream and pale yellow colors. Due to the fact that this variety was obtained by hybridizing Poetic and Tacet daffodils, it blooms later and has slightly lower frost resistance.

"Cheerfulness"

"Double Fashion"

The flowers are large, beautiful, with light yellow tepals and contrasting corrugated crown elements of a rich orange color.

"Double Fashion"

"Pencrebar"

A dwarf hybrid, reaching only 18 cm in height, with 1-2 small yellow double flowers.

"Pencrebar"

"Rip van Winkle"

Old, easily takes root in gardens and at the same time very early flowering variety. Its height is about 30 cm, its flowers are double, greenish-yellow, with very thin “petals”. In central Russia, the bulb often becomes smaller, and as a result the variety stops blooming. This variety can equally be classified as Botanical daffodils.

"Rip van Winkle"

"Sir Winston Churchill"

A multi-flowered variety with white “petals” and light yellow crown elements. Strong refined aroma.

"Sir Winston Churchill"

"Tahiti"

Durable peduncles with large “petals” of rich golden color and an orange-red crown, divided into many segments. The variety is good for cutting.

"Telamonius Plenus" ("Van Sion")

A variety known since the 16th century. An early flowering double yellow narcissus, highly resistant to weather changes. Either only the crown or the entire flower can be double.

"Unique"

Large round flowers with white tepals and yellow crown lobes.

"White Lion"

A powerful hybrid with pointed white “petals” and creamy yellow crown elements.

"White Lion"

"Yellow Cheerfulness"

Yellow version of the "Cheerfulness" variety. Sometimes there is a “return” to the original white variety.

"Yellow Cheerfulness"

Three-stamen daffodils

This class includes varieties of daffodils created on the basis of N. triandrus (N. three-stamen). On a peduncle they usually have two or more drooping flowers with “petals” bent upward. They resemble fuchsia in shape. Winter hardiness in the middle zone is quite satisfactory. This class of daffodils is still not widespread, but is quite promising for creating gardens in a natural style. They bloom from the second half of May. Height - 40-60 cm.

Arish Mell

The variety has up to four white flowers.

Arish Mell

"Hawera"

The bulb produces several flower stalks no more than 18 cm high with 3-5 small light yellow flowers. In the conditions of the middle zone, the bulbs often become smaller, and the peduncles become lower from year to year, and the number of flowers is reduced to one. Interesting for alpine slides.

"Hawera"

"Ice Wings"

A variety with 2-3 white flowers of medium size with a long crown.

"Ice Wings"

"Liberty Bells"

Beautifully shaped lemon yellow flowers.

"Liberty Bells"

"Petrel"

On a 30-centimeter peduncle there are 3-7 small drooping white flowers.

"Petrel"

"Rippling Waters"

The variety is distinguished by grayish foliage and 1-3 white flowers.

"Rippling Waters"

"Thalia"

The flowers of the most popular variety are star-shaped and pure white. The variety is very stable in the middle zone.

"Thalia"

Cyclamen daffodils

The varieties of this group were obtained by hybridization of N. cyclamineus (N. cyclamen). Usually there is one flower on a peduncle. The flower has a short peduncle, sits at an acute angle to the peduncle, and its “petals” are strongly bent back, which gives it some resemblance to a cyclamen flower. Many of these varieties and hybrids flower very early. They can be placed under bushes or among lawn grasses. Are different early flowering. Winter hardiness depends on the variety. Height - 30-60 cm.

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"Charity May"

"Charity May"

"Dove Wings"

"Dove Wings"

"February Gold"

"February Gold"

"February Silver"

"February Silver"

"Foundling"

"Foundling"

"Jack Snipe"

"Jack Snipe"

"Jenny"

The flowers have pointed creamy white “petals” and a flared lemon-colored crown that gradually becomes lighter as they bloom. The varieties of this group were obtained by hybridization of N. cyclamineus (N. cyclamen). Usually there is one flower on a peduncle. The flower has a short peduncle, sits at an acute angle to the peduncle, and its “petals” are strongly bent back, which gives it some resemblance to a cyclamen flower. Many of these varieties and hybrids flower very early. They can be placed under bushes or among lawn grasses. They are distinguished by early flowering. Winter hardiness depends on the variety. Height - 30-60 cm.

"Charity May"

An early flowering variety with light yellow flowers.

"Charity May"

"Dove Wings"

A variety with white “petals” surrounding a lemon-yellow crown.

"Dove Wings"

"February Gold"

An early flowering variety with deep yellow flowers. One of the most powerful varieties of this group, giving the earliest cutting of daffodils in central Russia.

"February Gold"

"February Silver"

Very long lasting large flowers with almost flat white “petals” surrounding a yellow crown.

"February Silver"

"Foundling"

White “petals” and salmon pink crown.

"Foundling"

"Jack Snipe"

White "petals" and a short yellow crown. The variety adapts perfectly to new conditions. Has proven itself well in central Russia. Reproduces quickly.

"Jack Snipe"

"Jenny"

Flowers with pointed creamy white “petals” and a flared lemon-colored crown that gradually lightens to a creamy color as it blooms. A fairly winter-hardy variety.

"Jetfire"

A strong hybrid with yellow flowers, the crowns of which become bright orange over time. Winter hardiness is high.

"Jetfire"

"Little Witch"

The variety is not higher than 30 cm; the flowers are small, golden yellow. These daffodils look good among the lawn.

"Little Witch"

"Peeping Tom"

Flowers with a long, flared golden-yellow crown and recurved “petals.”

"Peeping Tom"

"Tgena"

White “petals” bending back and a lemon-yellow crown.

"Tgena"

Jonquil daffodils

These 19th-century favorites are now grown less and less often.

All varieties are based on:

N. jonquilla (N. jonquil, or N. rush)

The leaves are very narrow, round rather than flat, and bright green in color. The foliage vaguely resembles a clump of rush grass (uncus), hence the name of the species. One peduncle produces 1-3 very fragrant flowers. The “petals” are widely divergent, but not bent back.

Daffodils of this group require bright sun.

They bloom in the second half of May, when most varieties of previous classes have already faded. Winter hardiness varies, but there are also varieties that are resistant to the middle zone. Height - 30-40 cm.

"Bell Song"

The variety has up to three white flowers with small pink crowns. Winter hardiness is good, but the bulbs often become smaller in the middle zone, which is why the variety turns into a dwarf one.

"Bell Song"

"Pipit"

The flowers are drooping, “reverse”, 1-2 on a peduncle, with lemon-yellow “petals” and a lighter crown - it turns white at the end of flowering. Winter-hardy variety.

"Quail"

2-3 fragrant yellow flowers with long crowns. In severe winters it freezes.

"Quail"

"Sun Disc"

The variety produces tiny single yellow flowers, the “petals” of which gradually fade to a cream color. Peduncles are about 20 cm high. In the conditions of the middle zone, the bulbs become smaller from year to year.

"Sundial"

An early variety with 1-2 small yellow flowers on a 20-centimeter peduncle.

"Sundial"

"Suzy"

1-4 dark yellow flowers with orange crowns. Winter hardiness is good.

"Suzy"

"Sweetness"

A variety with small, single golden, very fragrant flowers.

"Sweetness"

"Trevithian"

Variety with light lemon-yellow flowers. In some years it freezes out.

"Trevithian"

Tacetas and their hybrids

The ancestor of this class is N. tazetta (N. tatset). Tacet and related species are common in warm areas of the Mediterranean, so varieties based on it are quite thermophilic. When grown in the Russian climate, one should distinguish between tatsets themselves, which do not overwinter in the middle zone, and hybrids of tatsets with poetic daffodil (N. poctkus) - daffodils poetats, which have good frost resistance. Each strong peduncle contains from 3 to 40 flowers (depending on the variety). Flowers with a pleasant strong aroma, reminiscent of jasmine. They bloom very late compared to other varieties. The leaves are wide, bluish-green. Height-40 cm.

"Canaliculatus"

Grayish leaves and up to seven tiny pure white flowers with yellow crowns on each 25cm tall flower stalk. In central Russia it blooms only in the first year after planting. In subsequent years, the bulbs survive but do not bloom. Sometimes this daffodil is classified as Botanical.

"Erlicher"

Terry variety of tatsets. It is also very fragrant, but does not overwinter in central climates. However, it can often be found on sale. It is recommended to dig up the bulbs in early September, dry them and store them in a frost-free, cool room, and plant them again in open ground in May. This technique will extend the flowering of daffodils until mid-June. Sometimes this variety is referred to as double daffodils.

"Geranium"

A powerful hybrid with 3-4 pure white wide flowers and bright orange crowns. A fairly reliable and winter-hardy variety.

"Geranium"

"Minnow"

2-4 tiny creamy yellow flowers on a peduncle about 25 cm high. Overwinters, but flowering is irregular in the middle zone. Sometimes it is referred to as Botanical daffodils.

"Minnow"

"Paper White" (syn. N. papyraceus)

A widely known early variety of daffodils of this group, usually used for winter forcing. Each peduncle bears up to 10 small, pure white flowers with a strong aroma. It does not overwinter in the middle zone even under cover.