When the heating is turned on, in many homes the temperature rises quite high, causing discomfort. To fix this, you can open a window or install thermostats.

general description

Bimetallic regulators have been used for over 50 years. Initially they were used to reduce heating costs. But they can also be used to lower the air temperature in the room.

Such devices are often installed in small apartments, which quickly warm up at the standard temperature of the radiators. It doesn’t matter whether the batteries in the apartment are metal or cast iron. But before purchasing a regulator, you should find out the technical characteristics of the battery. MC 140 radiators are often purchased, they are simple and efficient. It is easy to install the described devices on them.

Ball valve for radiator

This device is a simple locking mechanism. Despite the fact that such products are not thermostats, they are worth mentioning. In some cases, this is the only option to reduce the temperature of the radiator. A ball valve is used if the apartment has cast iron batteries. The tap allows you to shut off the flow hot water, which will help reduce the temperature.

Unlike ball valves, thermostats operate automatically after adjustment. Such products have a mechanism that helps block the channel. They are convenient and, after setting a certain mode, do not require any action from the apartment owners.

Electronic thermostats

Such products are equipped with a temperature sensor and processor. Their work is based on sensor readings. Thanks to the processor, you can program the controller for a specific operating mode. For example, you can set the device to the minimum temperature if all family members are not at home during the day. You can also set the temperature to increase at specific times.

Electronic devices can be powered by batteries or mains power. Some modern models can be controlled via the Internet. Thanks to the use of this type of regulator, heating costs can be reduced by approximately 20 percent.

Regulators with thermal head

Regulators of the described type are the most common devices. Inside such devices there is a corrugated shell that contains a heat-sensitive composition. When the temperature changes, the walls of this element can stretch and contract.

As the temperature rises, the heat-sensitive composition expands, causing the bellows to press on the rod, which presses on the cone. After this, the coolant flow is blocked.

Bellows can contain both liquid and gas. The first type of product responds to temperature changes more slowly. Thermostats with such devices are less expensive and are purchased by most apartment owners. If you need to install regulators on several radiators installed in large rooms, it is worth purchasing products with a corrugated shell containing gas.

This is due to the fact that these regulators allow you to quickly change the air temperature. If the device is installed on one radiator, you can also purchase a liquid version, since in such a case the response speed of the device is less important.

Installing regulators on batteries

The installation process of the Royalthermo thermostat is divided into 2 stages: installation of the valve and installation of the control element of the structure. The valve cuts into the supply pipe. First you need to completely shut off the flow of fluid into the radiator. It should be remembered that if the system is single-pipe, it is necessary to install a bypass. This will allow the coolant to move freely throughout the heating system of the entire building. After this, you need to cut out part of the water supply and install a valve in its place.

Carrying out such work requires specialized tools and experience, so it is better to entrust it to specialists. The control element of the structure can be installed with my own hands. It is enough to screw it to the valve or insert it into the grooves.

The first option is more common, since threaded products can be selected from large quantity products different manufacturers. Some companies produce radiators with a thermal head, to which you can easily select a control element.

When installing thermostats, it is worth remembering some points:

1. It is worth choosing bimetallic products with the ability to block the flow of coolant. This function may be needed during radiator repair. You can also install a ball valve in front of the battery for this.
2. During installation, the valve must be installed so that the thermal head is positioned horizontally. When installed in a vertical position, the air rising from the radiator will heat the device. As a result, the device will not work correctly.
3. Also, the thermostat should not be installed behind thick curtains or decorative panels. This may cause the device to not operate properly due to elevated temperature air. If the design elements cannot be removed, you should find a design that has an external temperature sensor.
4. If there are several radiators in the apartment, you should not purchase a thermostat for each of them. It is enough to install devices on half of them.

Types of thermostats by signal transmission method

All described devices are divided into 3 types:

• devices in which the signal is supplied from the coolant;
• products that receive signals from the air in the room;
• models in which the signal comes from air outside the room.

All of these models differ in the type of thermal head. Products of the first type are controlled manually. On the valve head of such devices there is a scale with numbers. By turning it in a certain direction you can set desired temperature. When turned to zero, the thermostat closes completely. This position is usually set only when it is necessary to replace the radiator.

Apartment owners often purchase products with a corrugated shell, which contains a substance that reacts to changes in temperature. Thanks to such devices, you don’t have to worry about the temperature rising too much, as they automatically lower it. The described products are installed horizontally towards the room.

In some cases, it is better to use bimetallic devices with remote temperature sensors. They are located outside the room and when the air temperature drops, they send a signal to the thermostat. Thanks to the use of such regulators, when it gets cold, the air in the room will automatically heat up.

Such devices are the most effective, but have a high cost. It should be noted that if there are a large number of radiators in an apartment or house, several types of regulators can be used.

Types of devices by design features

If we divide the described devices according to design features, then it is worth highlighting such types as direct-acting products and electrically controlled models. Electric ones can send a signal to a valve in pipes or control the ignition of a heating boiler.

The direct-acting device is a simple tap that shuts off the coolant supply. Such products are rarely used because they do not allow making the room temperature comfortable. Such devices should not be installed if there is no jumper on the pipes.

Almost all of the devices described can be installed on both modern metal radiators and cast iron batteries. But the installation must be carried out by a specialist.

Types of regulators

All described devices can be divided into products for single-pipe and double-pipe heating systems. Regulators of the first type serve to maintain hydraulic balance in the system. In this case, the coolant flow is maintained at a constant level.

For two-pipe systems, it is necessary to purchase thermostats that can operate effectively under sudden pressure changes. They are divided into two types: those requiring additional adjustment of the hydraulic resistance and products that do not require such adjustment.

If a regulator is used without additional settings, all devices mounted on the riser will have the same coolant flow. It should be taken into account that heat loss in different rooms will be different. For example, if more fluid flows through the radiator than required, the room temperature will be too high. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to install a regulator for each device.

When choosing devices with adjustable capabilities, you can set the optimal coolant flow in each room. When choosing a thermostat for a heating radiator, you should keep in mind that the installation should not be done yourself if you do not have experience in carrying out such work.

This is probably a familiar picture to many - it’s a frosty winter outside, and in some apartments multi-storey buildings The windows are wide open. This only means that the owners are in this way saving themselves from the too hot, suffocating atmosphere created in the premises by heating radiators operating at full power. But there is nothing good in such an approach: drafts begin to circulate in the apartment, which can cause colds, and the waste produced by boiler rooms thermal energy thrown, literally, into the wind.

All this can be avoided if you slightly modernize your heating system - equip it with special device, which will sensitively respond to the current temperature readings in the rooms and make adjustments. This device is called a thermostat for a heating radiator. It is affordable, easy to use self-installation, easy to operate. And with all this, the thermostat creates an optimal microclimate in the room for residents, also bringing the effect of serious savings on energy consumption.

The need for a device for adjusting heat transfer from heating radiators

Any heating system must be created on the basis of carefully conducted thermal calculations. In this case, a lot of different criteria are taken into account, ranging from the area, height and other features of each specific room, to the specific climatic conditions of the region of residence. Naturally, when carrying out such calculations, designers start from the most unfavorable conditions. In other words, even in the coldest ten days of the year, heating must fully cope with its tasks, that is, a certain operating reserve must be provided.

But such severe frosts, the parameters of which are included in the calculation, most often remain on the street for no longer than two to three weeks over the entire long period. winter period. It turns out that the rest of the time the calculated thermal power heating systems remains unclaimed.

In addition, it is no secret that in any region a series of severe frosts can be replaced by a fairly long thaw. It is clear that under such conditions the need for incoming thermal energy decreases sharply.

You can also recall daily temperature fluctuations, especially in rooms with windows facing the sunny side. And such differences on fine days can be quite impressive - during the day the rooms become untidyly hot. So you have to open the windows wide, although this measure only partially solves the problem and can do more harm than good.

Centralized systems heating supplies are simply not able to respond very quickly and flexibly to such changes in air temperature. Moreover, many of existing systems were developed to meet old construction standards, with monotonous heating radiators and the widespread installation of conventional wooden windows. The mass installation by residents of new high-quality windows with double-glazed windows also made its own adjustments - heat loss through them is much less, plus, one of the ways of natural air ventilation in the premises has disappeared. When carrying out repairs, owners often discard old batteries, installing modern models with increased heat transfer. But if you do not adjust the temperature, then this is again the path to the consequences mentioned above.

It would seem that the owners of private houses with autonomous systems oh heating is much simpler, since they are able to quickly change the thermal power of the boiler itself. This is true, especially if boiler equipment equipped modern system weather-dependent automation. However, this does not completely solve the problem. IN different rooms At home, different thermal conditions may also be required. Plus, there are the already mentioned daily temperature fluctuations. In addition, in some premises it is often necessary to temporarily create completely individual conditions, for example, for storing certain products or materials. In temporarily uninhabited rooms, a thermal regime may be needed that would, for example, only ensure the guaranteed safety of the heating system itself. In a word, for all this it is necessary to have some means of quickly and accurately controlling the temperature directly on the heat exchange device itself - the radiator.

It was for these purposes that a thermostat for a heating radiator was developed.

Video - Thermostat for a heating radiator: installation and configuration

How does a thermostat work and what is the principle of its operation?

The principle of quantitative heat regulation

It is not for nothing that the liquid circulating through the heating circuits is called a coolant - this formulation fully describes its purpose. Taking, due to its clearly high heat capacity, a “thermal charge” from the boiler equipment, it transfers it through the heating radiators, where it releases it into the premises.

It would be natural to assume that the less coolant passes through the radiator per unit time, the less its overall heat transfer will be. It is on this principle – quantitative regulation of coolant flow – that the operation of most thermostats for heating radiators is based.

This principle is by no means new - it has always been used, including the installation of control valves in front of the entrance to the heating radiator. To this day in houses old building you can find almost “antique”, but still functioning cast-iron batteries, equipped with manual taps for adjusting temperature.

Do this in living conditions and now - they install one or another shut-off element on the supply pipe, which regulates the intensity of the coolant passing through the radiator. By the way, many people make the mistake of installing only a ball valve. By its design, it is designed to work in only two positions - completely open or closed. An intermediate position leads to rapid wear of the spherical valve and its seat, leading to failure of the product. If the ball valve is on the radiator (and this most often happens nowadays), then this is only for repair and maintenance work associated with complete shutdown and even dismantling. And it is not advisable to use it for adjustment.

It’s a different matter - well-known valve-type products, which are designed to regulate the flow of liquid passing through them. The forward movement of the valve plug parallel to the flow, from the position of its tight fit to the seat to its gradual raising above it, changes the internal cross-section of the liquid passage channel. The durability of such shut-off and control devices is much higher. Looking ahead, we can say that it is precisely this valve circuit that is, in fact, used in modern thermostats.

The manual adjustment scheme is pristine, but extremely inconvenient, since the owners have to constantly interfere with the operation of the radiator, making the necessary adjustments depending on the initial conditions - the current weather, the air temperature in the room and the coolant in the supply pipe. Of course, it would be much more convenient if the device was able to independently monitor changes and regulate the flow of coolant so that the set temperature is maintained in the room.

Such compact devices were invented and put into production in the middle of the last century by specialists from the Danish company DANFOSS. By the way, to this day it remains a leader in the field of industrial and household thermal automation, has production facilities around the world, and two factories are successfully operating in Russia.

There are practically no fundamental differences in the structure of most thermostats from various well-known manufacturers. Moreover, most of them are even adapted to uniform standards and are easily interchangeable.

Design of modern thermostats for heating radiators

In fact, any thermostat for a radiator, which is presented in a modern assortment, can be divided into two main units. One of them is a valve that regulates the flow of coolant, and a thermal head that controls the operation of this valve.

The valve itself (item 1) is a prefabricated structure made according to a design similar to a conventional valve

In the transport or non-working position, the control part of the valve with a protruding rod is closed by a protective cap (item 3). In a number of models, it can also be used to manually control the valve, acting as a flywheel, although many manufacturers do not welcome this approach. And the durability of this cap is regular use– is very doubtful.

The main control element is the thermal head (pos. 3), which is installed and fixed on the valve instead of the removed cap.

The interfacing scheme of the nodes may vary, but generally manufacturers adhere to a single standard, that is, thermal heads can be replaced with others. Accordingly, in the store you can purchase either a ready-made kit or just a valve, then select the thermal head you like best and have the appropriate parameters.

Thermal valve

Let's start with the valve device. Schematic diagram shown in the figure:

The valve body (item 1) is made of a corrosion-resistant alloy - it can be brass, bronze or stainless steel. Non-ferrous alloys are usually coated with chrome or nickel plating. You should not buy a cheap product made of silumin alloy - it will not last long.

The housing has a threaded part at the inlet (there are models equipped with a press fitting for the corresponding pipelines). At the output there is a connection with a fitting (item 2), which is usually “packed” into the heating radiator, made using an “American” union nut, making such a unit detachable. A fitting with an “American” connection must be included in the valve kit.

Wide arrows show the direction of movement of the coolant. There should be a corresponding icon on the body itself showing the direction of flow, and change correct location valve - unacceptable.

The valve seat (item 4) is located inside the body. The passage of liquid is closed or limited by the poppet valve itself (item 5) with a spool made of high-quality synthetic rubber.

The plate is connected to a rod (item 6), which ensures translational movement of the valve part. The body is equipped with a return spring (item 7), which always directs the valve to the open position if there is no control action on it.

Above the axis of the rod there is a pusher pin (pos. 8), which in its initial position comes out of the body. It is this pin that will take control action from any type of thermal head, transmitting it to a rod with a poppet valve that closes or regulates the flow of liquid. Of course, the seals have been thought out - ring (pos. 9) and stuffing box (pos. 10), which prevent coolant leakage along the axis of the rod. When not in use, this unit must be covered with a protective cap (pos. 11).

For those who do not understand drawings well, there is a similar valve, but in a “live section”.

According to the principle of their design, almost all valves are the same. However, there are specific differences among them that you should definitely be aware of.

• Firstly, the valves differ in their mounting dimensions. So, for example, depending on the diameter of the connection to the heating radiator, it is fashionable to purchase thermal valves with ½, ¾ and 1 inch connecting threads.
• Secondly, the shape of the valve body may also vary. There are straight models that provide a through flow of coolant, and angular ones that change the flow direction to perpendicular. It is clear that the choice will depend on the location and connection of the supply pipe.

The figure shows several main versions of a valve model with approximately the same design:

A- regular straight line;

b– angular vertical;

V– angular horizontal;

G– angular with placement of pipes and valve head in three perpendicular axes. Moreover, such a model can also be left-handed or right-handed.

• Thirdly, when choosing a valve, you should pay attention to what heating system it is designed to work in. There can be significant differences here.

Thus, for single-pipe systems, high levels of hydraulic resistance on the control valves are unacceptable. Therefore, valves usually have a wider cross-section and are externally somewhat larger in volume. In the accepted classification, they are usually marked with the letter index G, for example, RTR-G. In principle, they are also suitable for two-pipe autonomous systems with natural circulation coolant.

And for two-pipe systems with forced circulation, where the pressure of the passing coolant can reach considerable values, other valves are used - marked N or D (various additional combinations are possible).

This is a very important question, because when wrong choice You can end up with extremely incorrect operation of the heating system as a whole.

• Finally, fourthly, thermal valves for two-pipe systems may also have a device for pre-setting it bandwidth. So, you can set the required value in advance in the acceptable range - from 0.04 to 0.73 m³/hour for ½ inch valves, or from 0.10 to 1.04 for ¾ and 1 inch diameters.

This measure allows you to pre-set the approximate value of the required coolant flow through the radiator - the thermal head will bear a much smaller load, and it will last longer and will regulate faster and more accurately. The adjustment itself is not difficult and does not require any tools - just unlock the adjusting ring and, turning it in the desired direction, set the required value according to the existing mark. The instructions supplied with the valve provide recommendations, tables and diagrams - everything to correctly determine the required preset position. The initial values ​​in this matter will be the thermal power of the radiator to which the thermostatic unit is connected, as well as the temperature difference in the supply and return pipes

After such a preset, when the thermal head is put on, this setting scale will become invisible and difficult to access without unauthorized intervention.

Finally, thermal valves with the letter D also provide dynamic pressure equalization. The special design of internal channels and nozzles maintains the pressure drop in such a valve at a value of only 0.1 bar. This is very convenient both for thermal calculations and for ensuring stability of the coolant flow passing through the heating radiator, regardless of the position of the valve.

Thermal heads

So, as we have seen, all thermal valves have a pusher pin protruding from the body, which transmits translational motion to the rod with the poppet valve. It remains to figure out which specific device will transmit this force, and how it all relates to maintaining the required temperature.

• The simplest solution is to install a so-called locking handle. It has exactly the same interface system with the valve body as any other thermal head. By rotating the installed handle, you can change the position of the poppet valve, that is, in principle, it makes it possible to manually adjust the temperature.

Of course, it is impossible to call such a handle a thermal head - the device will not react independently to changes in the temperature in the room. This approach is a direct analogy with a conventional plumbing valve placed on a pipe in the garden, as already mentioned above.

However, manufacturers do not position the locking handle as a regulating element of the system. Its purpose is to reliably close the valve in case of need for certain repair and maintenance work. This makes it possible to do without an additional ball valve on the supply pipe - the thermal head is removed, the mentioned handle is installed, with its help the valve is tightly screwed - and you can dismantle the radiator without completely turning off the system and without draining the coolant from it. Having such a “spare part” at home is useful, but using it for effective thermoregulation does not make much sense.

• The most popular option is the use of bellows-type thermal heads, which sensitively react to changes in room temperature and create the same mechanical force on the protruding pin, through it on the rod, and then on the poppet valve itself, completely blocking or narrowing the coolant passage channel.

Since ordinary consumers most often have to deal with such thermal heads, their design will be discussed below in a little more detail.

• If the heating system of the house is fully automated, or in cases where it is necessary to place remote temperature sensors in the rooms, a servo-driven head can be used. A miniature electric motor receives a control signal from the control unit and progressively moves the valve stem up or down, ensuring the opening or closing of the channel for the movement of coolant.

However, these are used complex systems management - infrequently. Usually it is quite enough to install a thermal head with a bellows operating principle.

How does a bellows thermal head work?

The main advantage of this type of thermal heads is that they are able to operate in a fully automatic mode, without requiring any power at all. The principle of their operation is based on one of the basic laws of thermodynamics - the expansion of substances with increasing temperature.

An example of an automatic mechanical thermal head device is shown in the illustration:

It is probably clear to everyone that in the lower part of the figure there is a section of a thermal valve, the construction of which we have “already gone through”. But the thermal head itself is attached to it using a union nut M30×1.5 (item 1). Some manufacturers also use other connecting units of their own design: no key is required to install the head - it is fixed in the adapter with a simple hand press. But still, the vast majority of thermal valves have a threaded part that is standardized specifically for this nut size - M30x15.

The device itself consists of two parts - a stationary one, which is attached to the thermal valve, and a movable head, rotating relative to its axis (item 2). Its body is usually made of durable plastic. The head is usually provided with holes (round or slot-shaped) to ensure contact of ambient air with the temperature-sensitive element.

This sensitive thermoelement or bellows (item 3) is, in fact, the main part of the entire device. It is a hermetically sealed cylindrical container filled with a liquid or gaseous substance (agent). The bellows body is designed in such a way that it can change in volume - most often this is achieved due to the corrugated walls of the cylinder (item 4).

The principle of operation is extremely simple. Depending on changes in temperature in the room, the liquid or gaseous agent either increases in volume or, conversely, contracts. This thermal expansion is transmitted to the bellows body, which, in turn, acts on the piston with rod (item 5). The rod is installed strictly coaxially with the pusher pin of the thermal valve, that is, it transfers to it the mechanical force to close or open the valve part. Accordingly, when the temperature rises, the channel for coolant circulation narrows, until it closes completely; when it decreases, it opens slightly, thereby adjusting the heat transfer from the heating radiator.

The movable head is connected to the fixed part by a threaded connection (item 6). Thus, by rotating the head, you can progressively change the position of the piston, rod and bellows relative to the thermal valve body. This makes it possible to pre-set the thermostat to maintain a certain temperature. To visualize the settings, there is a scale on the body of the rotating head (pos. 8), and on the stationary part there is a pointer (pos. 9). The numbers or pictograms printed on the scale allow you to set the required temperature with an accuracy of literally one degree.

There are other variations in the design of the thermal head. So, for example, if you need to take temperature readings not directly near the radiator, but to the side, then a thermal head with an external probe is used. This probe sensor is connected to the bellows of the thermal head by a thin metal capillary tube about 2 meters long.

Another option is also possible. For example, in cases where access to the radiator is difficult for one reason or another, it is necessary not only to remove the sensor, but also the adjustment mechanism. For such situations, a kit is offered that includes a head that acts only as a drive to transmit force to the valve fitting. And the control panel with an adjusting flywheel is placed on the wall in a place convenient for access and adjustments. In such devices there are two bellows - a working one, located in the control panel itself, and a drive bellows connected to it by a capillary tube, which ensures the operation of the valve device on the radiator.

There are also more complex combinations - for example, a drive head connected to a control unit, which, in turn, also has an external temperature sensor.

Video - Animated demonstration of the device and operating principle of a thermostat for a heating radiator

Electronic thermal heads

Electronic thermal heads stand somewhat apart. They are also adapted for installation on standard thermal valves, however, they differ in larger overall dimensions, since they require power to operate, and the case contains a battery compartment (usually two AA elements).

These thermostatic heads are equipped with a digital display that allows you to accurately set the temperature value. Modern models very often provide owners with the ability to program operating modes. For example, you can reduce the air temperature in the room during the absence of people in the house or apartment, so that comfortable conditions were provided only by the time they arrived home. You can lower the temperature at night - many people sleep much better in a cool atmosphere, but so that in the morning, by the time you get up, an optimal microclimate is ensured. Such settings are also carried out by day of the week, taking into account weekends or holidays. This can bring a very noticeable energy saving effect.

Many electronic thermostatic heads also have preset modes. For example, “vacation”, “economical”, “freeze protection” and others - switching to such modes is carried out by simply pressing the corresponding buttons.

Electronic thermal heads of some models can fit perfectly into the concept " smart home", unite in unified system with a common monitoring and control unit. The temperature level in the premises is controlled from one center, and control signals are transmitted via one or another wireless communication channel.

Of course, such electronic systems have a very bright future. But so far, they have not reached the peak of popularity, partly due to their considerable cost. Most consumers prefer to purchase automatic thermal heads mechanical action.

How to choose a thermostat for a heating radiator?

If you decide to install thermostatic regulators on heating radiators, then when choosing the optimal models you should adhere to certain evaluation criteria.

1. It has already been mentioned that almost all thermal valves are adapted to most manufactured thermal heads. This makes it possible to purchase the required kit separately. If you have limited funds, it is even fashionable to split the purchase into two “steps” - first purchase and install valves, temporarily adjusting them manually, and then supplement them with thermostatic heads.
2. The valves must match the type of heating system. This has already been mentioned - there are models for two-pipe systems (by the way, they are the majority in the assortment of stores), and for one-pipe. Ignoring this rule is unacceptable.
3. It is necessary to evaluate in advance the locations of the intended installation of thermostats, since the shape of the valve body will depend on this - straight, angular, etc.

Important - the thermostat must be installed only on the supply pipe! In this case, the correct position of the thermal head should be horizontal. This rule was introduced so that the heated air rising from the supply pipe does not wash the temperature-sensitive element - the bellows - and does not “disorient” it, otherwise the operation of the device will become extremely incorrect.

Depending on the diameter of the supply pipe, the installation dimensions of the valve are selected.

1. When choosing a control head, of course, preference should be given to models with automatic adjustment temperature. Manual valves will not provide the expected operating comfort.
2. There is little point in installing devices with automatic adjustment on cast iron radiators - the too high thermal inertia of such batteries interferes with the correct operation of the thermostatic unit. Here you can limit yourself to a manually controlled device.
3. When choosing a location for installing the thermostat, it is necessary to take into account that the correctness of its operation can be affected by direct exposure to sunlight, the proximity of other heat sources, including large household appliances, drafts, etc. If the entrance of the half-dacha pipe to the radiator is located in the listed “problem” areas, then it would be wiser to purchase a model with a remote temperature sensor. A similar approach is also practiced in places where it is impossible to install the thermal head in the correct horizontal position.

Other specific conditions for placing a radiator or heating convector can also create problems. For example, according to the interior design, the batteries are covered with decorative covers, thick curtains, or there is a very wide window sill on top of them. In such cases, it will also be more rational to use a regulator with a remote sensor, and if it is difficult to access the thermal head itself to make adjustments, use a remote control panel.

Similar measures are often resorted to when the lower principle of connecting a radiator or converter involves the proximity of the supply pipe to the floor, where the temperature readings will differ significantly from room temperature. It should be remembered that optimal height The location of the temperature sensor is 500 ÷ 800 mm from the floor level.

In principle, the speed and accuracy of the reaction in practical operation is not so noticeable, so it is quite possible to get by with a more affordable thermostat with a liquid bellows. In terms of durability, they are approximately equal.

• If there are concerns that unauthorized changes may be made to the thermostat settings, or there may be attempts to violate the integrity of the device (alas, children left unsupervised are quite capable of such “disgrace”), then you should consider purchasing a device that has special anti-vandal protection. Calling children “vandals” is, of course, an exaggeration, but still...

• The range of variable temperature settings should be assessed. Usually it lies in the range from +5 to +30 degrees, in increments of 1 degree. Often the passport indicates the value of hysteresis - the temperature difference at which the device responds. It is clear that the smaller it is, the more sensitive the device is.

Many models allow the owner-customer to narrow the range of temperature changes by installing special stoppers (usually purchased separately). These additional details limit the rotation sector of the adjusting head, that is, none of the residents will be able to, through negligence or ignorance, allow a critically high or low level room temperature.

• Such devices belong to the category of certified products. Therefore, you should only choose models from trusted manufacturers who provide their products with a factory warranty. Of course, the purchase should be made only in specialized stores, whose staff, at the client’s request, will present documents confirming the originality and certification of the proposed thermostats, and will make a note in the registration document about the date and place of sale.

Among the manufacturers of such equipment, in addition to the already mentioned Danish company Danfoss (a significant part of the products of this brand are also produced at Russian enterprises), you can completely trust the brands Oventrop (Germany), Caleffi (Italy), Royal Thermo "(Italy), "Teplokontrol" (Russia), "SALUS Controls". The choice of models is quite wide, as is the price range, so it is quite possible to choose a high-quality model from the available range. There is no point in purchasing a product from an unknown company - you can get into a lot of problems with it.

Video - Recommendations for choosing a thermostatic head

Brief overview of thermostat models for radiators

Since valves are for the most part a unified part of a thermostat, the review will mainly concern thermal heads:

Model name	Illustration	Brief description of the model	Approximate price level
"Oventrop Vindo TH M 30x1.5"		Thermostatic head with liquid bellows. There is a zero position - complete closure of the valve.	750 rub.
"Oventrop Uni LH M 30x1.5"		Thermostatic head with remote sensor, capillary tube length – 2 m. Connection to the valve – union nut M30×15. The adjustment range is from 7 to 28 degrees. There is a zero position. Possibility of user limitation of the setting range. Permissible temperature coolant - up to 120 degrees.	1550 rub.
"Caleffi"		Model with built-in bellows temperature sensor. Connection - with a specific series of valves or using a special adapter (may be included in the kit). The adjustment range is from 7 to 28 degrees.	1050 rub.
"Royal Thermo RTE 50.030"		The liquid filling of the bellows is toluene. Hysteresis – 0.55 degrees. The permissible coolant temperature is up to 100 degrees. Connection to the valve – union nut M30×15. Manufacturer's warranty – 5 years.	830 rub.
"Caleffi 472000"		A set of a drive head and a control unit connected by a capillary tube 2 meters long. The temperature adjustment range is from +6 to +28 degrees. Hysteresis – 0.6 degrees. Bellows are liquid. Connection: with a separate group of valves - direct, with the rest - through an adapter.	8100 rub.
Danfoss RTS Everis		Liquid bellows. Connection with Danfoss thermal valves is direct fixation, with others - through an adapter. The temperature adjustment range is from +8 to +28 degrees. Hysteresis – 0.5 degrees. Devices for limiting the range and fixing fine tuning. Protection against freezing of the system at temperatures less than +8 degrees. Ergonomic design. Warranty – 1 year	1100 rub.
"Salus PH60"		Thermal head with electronic control. Connection to the valve – union nut M30×15. Possibility of programming - for a week, including with various operating modes. LCD screen with backlight. Indication of current and set parameters, battery charge level, device status. Four preset operating programs. The temperature adjustment range is from +5 to +40 degrees. Hysteresis – 0.5 degrees. Power supply: two AA batteries, the charge of which should be enough for a year of operation.	3700 rub.

Valves for thermostats are available in a wide variety of sizes, shapes and purposes for a specific system. The price of high-quality valves, for example, from the Danfoss range, depending on their installation size and type, ranges from 1200 to 2700 rubles.

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Installing a thermostat on a heating radiator and setting it up

Installation of the device

Drive step by step instructions installing a thermostatic regulator on a radiator is very difficult, since there can be a great many options in this matter, depending on the type and material of the internal circuit wiring. It’s better to limit yourself to a list important recommendations and illustrations of completed bindings. Anyone who has experience in plumbing installation work will understand everything. And if you don’t have such skills, then radiators and thermostats are not the best place for training, and it’s better to practice on something simpler first.

If you look at photographs of completed work, you can see such a crane in the vast majority. Just don’t mount it between the thermostat and the radiator - this would be a gross mistake.

• In the case where the thermostat is installed on a radiator connected to a single-pipe separation system, certain rules must be observed additional rules. Firstly, the thermal valve itself must correspond to a one-pipe system - this has already been discussed. And secondly, and this is the main thing, that a bypass is installed between the supply and return pipes - a jumper pipe. The bypass diameter, according to the rules, should be one size smaller than the diameter of the liner. Any shut-off elements in the interval from the riser to the bypass are unacceptable - the same ball valve or thermostat must be located in the area between the bypass and the radiator.

What is a bypass and what role does it play?

In a properly planned heating system there are no unnecessary parts - any, even seemingly insignificant element plays one role or another. A striking example of this is, which is described in detail in a separate article on our portal.

• After the thermal valve is installed, it is necessary to fill the system with coolant and turn it on for circulation. This step will make it possible to check the tightness of the connections made - there should be no signs of leaks in the connecting nodes or from under the valve stem.
• If the valve requires presetting, now is the time to do it. The value that needs to be set on the scale is determined in accordance with the recommendations in the product’s operating instructions. The installation itself is carried out manually - the ring with the scale is removed from the stopper (pulled forward towards itself) and turned until the desired division aligns with the mark, after which it is locked again.

• Now you can install the thermal head. There are possible options here, which will definitely be specified in the device instructions. Some heads are fixed by simply pressing your hand until you hear a click (this is more typical for Danfoss products), others are mounted on the valve body with a union nut M30×15. Before fixing, the most convenient position of the regulator is selected - so that the visibility of the adjustment scale is ensured. After this, the nut can be tightened. They do not require much effort - often the muscle strength of the fingers is enough.

One more note. If there are two radiators installed in a room, then there is no point in installing a thermostat on each - they will only interfere with each other’s correct operation. If the radiators are of equal value, then the installation location does not matter - the device can be placed on any one, for reasons of ease of installation or use. But in the case when radiators differ in power, the thermostat is installed on the one that has greater heat transfer.

The installation and debugging of thermostats in a private residential building usually begins with the rooms on the top floor (if there is one), since warm air rises there from below. IN one-story houses or in apartments, rooms in which high dynamics of air temperature changes are observed come to the fore. This, of course, is the kitchen, where the air is very hot from the stove, rooms facing south, as well as those where traditionally there are the most people - this also changes the overall thermal background very much.

You might be interested in information about what types of

Setting up the thermostat

Thermal heads undergo appropriate calibration at the technical control stage. As a rule, the temperature values ​​corresponding to certain divisions of the device scale are indicated in its passport. However, it should be understood correctly that calibration is carried out in certain laboratory conditions, on a specific type of thermal valve, at a strictly set height of the thermal head relative to the floor level, etc. Much, by the way, in this matter depends on the type and power of the heating radiator. Therefore, under real operating conditions, deviations from the calibrated temperature indicators are quite possible.

It doesn’t matter - you can fine-tune the existing heating system yourself. It is performed in several steps:

1. It is advisable to place a regular thermometer in the room - this way you can rely on its readings, and not just on your own feelings. It is clear that everything in the room is brought to a “warm” position - windows and doors are closed, drafts are eliminated.
2. The valve opens completely - to do this, the head is rotated counterclockwise to the extreme left position. With this position, the coolant encounters virtually no obstacles, and its maximum flow through the heating radiator is ensured fast growth temperature in the room.
3. When the air temperature reaches sufficiently high values, around 27÷30 degrees (it will feel hot), the head is rotated clockwise to the extreme right position. The valve is completely closed.
4. Naturally, the air temperature in the room begins to gradually decrease. Here it is important to catch the moment when it reaches the most comfortable value according to personal perception (or according to thermometer readings). At this moment, you need to start very smoothly turning the head of the device counterclockwise. At some point, it will be clearly indicated both by ear and by touch that the valve has opened slightly and the coolant flow has begun through it. That's it, stop - this value, which is now on the scale, can be considered optimal and be guided by it in further operation. It probably makes sense to compare the thermometer readings and the value on the scale with the tabular data given in the product data sheet - do they differ and by how much?

During further operation of the thermostat, it will be possible to make appropriate adjustments by selecting optimal mode work for a specific period.

Electronic thermostatic heads are adjusted and programmed in accordance with the operating instructions supplied with them.

You might be interested in information about what properties they have

Conclusion and useful appendix to the article for users

What are the advantages of using thermostats on heating radiators?

To summarize, a few words about the advantages and conveniences that the installation of thermostats will bring:

1. The installation itself, as we have seen, is not complicated, and can be carried out both for a heating system that is just being created, and for a heating system that has been in operation for a long time.
2. The premises are maintained at an optimal temperature level that is most favorable for residents. At the same time, the microclimate is not affected by daily temperature fluctuations, sudden changes in the street, or the use of household appliances, which tend to generate a lot of heat.
3. Thermostats in an autonomous system contribute to the most uniform, rational distribution of coolant throughout all rooms. This eliminates the characteristic disadvantage of single-pipe systems, when the temperature in the radiators drops with distance from the boiler room.
4. Thermostatic regulators are easy to operate and do not require any additional energy consumption. On the contrary, in autonomous systems of a private home they lead to significant, up to 20–25% savings in energy consumption for heating, and as a rule, they pay for themselves in just one season.

The only thing that can be blamed on the thermostat is that it can only work to lower the temperature. If the conditions are such that the heating power is clearly insufficient, then you can’t expect miracles from installing such devices; it won’t get better anyway. This means that it is necessary to carefully analyze whether the heating system is designed correctly in principle and whether its parameters correspond to real conditions. Possibly – the boiler power is insufficient, incorrectly selected and needs optimization general scheme contours. Sometimes the error lies in the incorrectly calculated parameters of heating radiators for specific rooms.

However, it also happens that the reason lies in something completely different: the owners simply need to pay close attention to the quality and effectiveness of the thermal insulation of their home.

You might be interested in information on how to choose

Appendix - how to calculate the optimal radiator for a room

The calculation of the entire heating system and radiators in particular is always carried out in such a way as to ensure a normal microclimate in the most severe (but not exceeding normal) conditions. In a word, in a similar way, the necessary operational reserve is included in the design parameters, since full load The entire system will operate for a fairly limited time during the season.

As we have seen, the thermostat is capable of maintaining the optimal temperature, as if eliminating the imbalance between the current settings of the heating system and the actual conditions in the room. But at the same time, the radiators in the room must be able to cope with the peak, most unfavorable conditions.

The often recommended ratio is 10 square meters area requires 1 kW of thermal power - quite approximate, not taking into account a number of specific parameters characteristic of a particular room. Therefore, we recommend that readers use a more advanced calculation algorithm, which is taken as the basis for compiling the online calculator located below.

If questions arise during the calculations, the necessary comments are given below.

Are the windows in your apartment open even in extreme cold? You can't achieve optimal temperature indoor air? Then this article is addressed specifically to you. In order to regulate the temperature in the radiator, and also ensure the uninterrupted and safe operation of the heating system, several types of protective and control units are used.

Before you purchase thermostat for radiator, which have various reviews on the Internet, let's look at the main types of these devices, the principle of operation, technical characteristics and the correctness of their use.

Main types:

- ball valve
- manual cone valve
- automatic regulator or thermostat

A ball valve performs only two main functions: open and closed. Whatever the position of the tap, your heating radiator may become depressurized. Therefore, the operation of the ball valve will be ineffective.

A manual cone valve regulates the temperature much more reliably than. It may not be completely covered. But using such a valve will require your constant presence and attention.

How does a manual cone valve work?:

We twist the mechanism, activating the valve stem. But, if the valve constantly opens and closes, its protective cap can be damaged, i.e. damage the entire device.

The most optimal thermostat option in our time is considered to be automatic thermostat for radiator heating.

In automatic devices, the temperature valve functions in conjunction with the radiator thermal head and quickly responds even to minor temperature fluctuations. As the temperature drops, the liquid in the thermal cartridge narrows, the valve stem extends, the flow of water from the heating system increases, and the temperature rises.

If, on the contrary, it is very hot in your house, automatic device the device will start on its own reverse process, and the air temperature will begin to drop.

Temperature controllers receive a signal to the thermostat component from various sources:

- water from the heating system
- indoor air
- outdoor air

Installing a thermostat is carried out on the radiator itself, if the radiator is not covered with anything. If you have a thermostat with an air temperature sensor, place the device at a short distance from the valve (up to 1cm). You can also install it in the radiator cap itself. To set the thermostat, turn off the water, drain it, then get to work.

What needs to be done:

- cut the pipe at a certain distance from the radiator and remove it

— it is better to dismantle the ball valve in front of the radiator

— insert the shanks from the caps into the radiator plugs

- tie the radiator

- connect the distribution pipes


To adjust the operation of our device, you need to close the vents, doors, and windows. Don't let it get out warm air from home. Place a regular thermometer in the room where the thermostat is installed. Open the regulator valve all the way.

When the air temperature rises by 6 degrees, close the valve. When you hear the sound of coolant entering the radiator, the valve will heat up. Remember what position the valve head is in at this moment. This way, you can configure the equipment yourself.

If the thermostat is installed in a place covered by furniture or curtains, then its operation will be ineffective. If it is not possible to place the device in another location, use remote control sensors with a clip-on sensing element.

It is completely justified to purchase a mini-regulator, which, as practice shows, is not inferior in properties to classic ones.

Some “professionals” install a special shut-off valve in the system, placing it on back side radiator In this case it does not amount to special labor dismantle or without turning off the system. When the heating season comes to an end, the thermostat must be opened by turning it counterclockwise.

Another type of thermostats for radiators is electronic thermostats, based on the automatic operating principle. Electronic thermostats support the heating system desired temperature, automatically control the mixer, valves, pumps.

A special temperature sensor is built into the electronic thermostat or installed externally, which transmits information to the device about the state of the temperature of the room in which it is located.

Electronic thermostat for radiator

Electronic thermostats come in two types:

- with open logic
- with closed logic

In everyday life, thermostats with closed logic are more often used. Open logic thermostats are used in industrial production.

Thermostats are not only liquid, but also gas-filled.

Gas-filled thermostats react faster to room temperature fluctuations, because their functioning is not related to water temperature. Such thermostats quickly respond to the dynamics of temperature changes, which contributes to a more efficient supply of heat.

Please note that when using a thermostat, much greater results can only be achieved when the device is first installed in rooms with large temperature fluctuations, for example, in the kitchen.

So, open windows and vents are left behind, since you have purchased a much-needed thermostat for your heating radiator.

Advantages of modern thermostats:

— simply installed into the system, requiring no maintenance or preventative maintenance

— operating range from 5 to 28 degrees

— they ensure uniform distribution of coolant throughout the system

- there is no excessive increase in air temperature in the room

— savings of about 25% are provided

- the microclimate of the room is significantly improved

Thermostatic equipment allows a person to influence the microclimate in the house, setting an acceptable range of day and night air temperatures. In addition to maintaining the temperature balance in a living space, heating thermostats allow you to optimize the cost of paying for housing and communal services. Many residents apartment buildings V winter time forced to constantly keep the windows open, trying to escape from the heat-breathing radiators. This situation can be tolerated if payments for heating are carried out according to standards. If heat meters are installed in an apartment or house, then it becomes completely unprofitable for the owners to endure the inconvenience while “heating” the street.

After watching the video, you will learn how to install a heating temperature controller and configure it.

Most of all, rooms in which temperatures fluctuate significantly during the day (kitchens and rooms oriented to the sunny side) need the installation of thermostats. It is important to regulate the temperature level in the bedrooms, since proper sleep is only possible at 18-19°C.

Where are thermostats usually installed?

The optimal place to place the thermostat is itself heating device(radiator), provided that it is not covered with curtains, decorative grilles or other interior items. Violation of this rule leads to an inadequate assessment of the temperature level in the room.

You can bypass this rule using thermostatic element with a remote sensor located from the valve at a distance of 2 to 8 meters. In this case, the temperature level will be controlled at the location of the sensor. Also, temperature controllers for radiators can be installed on a horizontal section of the pipeline near the point of entry into the heating device.

When the manual thermostat completely blocks the flow of coolant into the radiator, its circulation in the system will continue through the jumper pipe

If the installation of equipment is carried out in accordance with the instructions and compliance with all building codes and regulations, then temperature control can be made in the range from 5°C to 30°C in increments of one degree. This range may vary on some models, so please check this information before purchasing.

Installation procedure for thermostat

To install a thermostat for heating radiators, first turn off the supply riser. Then drain the water from the heating system and begin installation work, which are executed in the following order:

• cut off horizontal pipe lines at some distance from the radiator;
• disconnect the cut pipeline, as well as the tap, if it was installed previously, from the radiator;
• disconnect the shanks together with the nuts from the shut-off valve and the thermostat valve; they are wrapped in radiator plugs;
• then assemble the piping and install it in the chosen location;
• then the installed piping is connected to horizontally located supply pipes coming from the riser.

Heating systems are divided into two types: single-pipe and double-pipe. In a one-pipe heating system, when connecting a thermostat, it is necessary to change the radiator connection diagram by installing a jumper connecting the direct and return connections of the device.

This jumper pipe, otherwise called a bypass, allows the coolant to circulate when the heating battery is closed by a thermostatic device. When implementing such a connection diagram, it is convenient to dismantle the device by first closing the valves shown in the figure as numbers 3 and 4.

Connection diagram for a heating radiator thermostat in a one-pipe system

Connection diagram for a radiator temperature controller in a two-pipe heating system

Legend to the diagrams:

1. heating system supply riser;
2. Radiator;
3. thermostat (automatic or manual);
4. bottom valve;
5. manual or automatic air vent;
6. jumper;
7. reverse riser;
8. stub.

In a two-pipe heating system, the flow of coolant into the radiator can be controlled using a radiator temperature controller installed on the top supply.

How to set the temperature controller correctly?

To set the thermostat correctly, you need to minimize heat leakage from the room by closing windows and doors. A room thermometer is placed where there should be a constant temperature. Then open the valve completely, turning the thermostat head to the left until it stops. In this position, the radiator provides the maximum level of heat transfer, so the air in the room will begin to heat up.

After the thermometer readings increase by 5–6°C compared to the initial value, the valve is closed. To do this, turn the head to the right as far as it will go. At the same time, the air temperature in the room will begin to gradually decrease. When the temperature reaches the desired value, begin to slowly open the valve.

As soon as the sound of water in the thermostat is heard and a sharp heating of the valve body is felt, the rotation of the head is stopped, remembering its position. At this point, setting up the thermostat is considered complete.

To install thermostats for heating radiators, it is best to invite professional plumbers

It is better to entrust the selection and installation of thermostats to specialists who will connect the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. A properly installed thermostat will ensure a comfortable temperature level in the room and help save heat consumption, which will have a positive impact on the family budget.

Not so long ago, old-style heating systems required only cast-iron radiators to heat the room, and there was no talk of any temperature regulators. Nowadays, to ensure comfortable use and safety, thermostats are installed for heating radiators. With their help, you can control the flow, temperature of water or other coolant. The system provides ease of use and allows you to save on the cost of heating your home, and in the event of an emergency it will help you quickly disconnect the radiator from the riser.

Please note that in most cases, a thermostat on the battery is the only way to disconnect it from the system. The rule applies to all legacy installations, as well as some modern ones.

Types of thermostats for heating radiators

Depending on the principle of operation, thermostats are divided into mechanical and automatic. Another common classification is according to the sensitive medium that fills the bellows. Thus, devices are classified as liquid (conductor - water) and gas-filled (gas). Let's consider a detailed classification, where thermostats are divided into 4 main types depending on the needs of the user and the features of the system.

A mechanical thermostat is the cheapest, and therefore the most common option.

Despite the fact that the configuration of thermostats remains the same for different types, the main differences are in the control method. Thus, the mechanical model has a division valve. To change the temperature, just turn the valve to the appropriate division.

Electrically controlled mechanics

To set the temperature, such installations use a rotating wheel. When the required temperature is reached, the internal thermostat switch closes and sends a signal to the main mechanism to open or close the valve.

Thermostat with electric servo drive

The device has a servo drive - a small electric motor that replaces a mechanical valve on the body. Control is carried out using commands from an electronic thermostat. Electronics are installed anywhere in the room to measure the current temperature. Depending on the temperature, the servo drive rotates the axis and acts on the thermostat.

Electronic models in the heating system

Electronic thermostats are a more convenient analogue of mechanical ones.

Such a thermostat for radiators repeats the operating principle of a mechanical one. The only difference is that the device has a simple display and button controls. Due to this, the price increases and, compared to analogues, the operating error decreases. Such systems are considered the most progressive and allow you to set the temperature from a day to a week or more. The temperature can be set by the hour: minimum when no one is home, and usual during hours of activity at home.

Operating principle and device

Design of a thermostat installed in heating systems.

The design of the thermostat is quite simple: a valve and a thermal head. The last element contains a cylinder with a corrugated wall - a siphon filled with a heat conductor. Usually this is gas or water. The rod connects the siphon and the valve that sets the flow. These elements do not require electricity to function; automatic communication is established between them.

The operating principle of a thermostat for heating radiators assumes that gas or water (any coolant) changes its volume when the ambient temperature fluctuates.

The mechanical regulator is considered the most reliable and simplest. As the temperature increases, the siphon stretches, which allows the valve to block the access of heat to the battery. When decreasing working environment becomes smaller, and the siphon shrinks. The stem rises, allowing the valve to admit heat into the battery. Temperature changes in this case are affected by drafts, sunlight, additional heat sources, and the temperature outside the window.

Advantages and disadvantages of thermostats

Definitely, the temperature sensor has more advantages:

1. Easy to install and operate. You can install a mechanical device without outside help and special skills, with a minimum of tools. Control of mechanical and car models is simple: the temperature is set by turning a wheel or pressing a button.
2. Install the thermostat together with gas meter and this will significantly reduce your utility costs. According to estimates, for an average apartment, installing a thermostat and meter can provide up to 20% savings on energy consumption.
3. Advanced models allow you to program the boiler’s operation for an hour, a day and even a month. The temperature is set depending on the activity of the owners of the house.
4. The system does not require operating costs.

But the device is not without its drawbacks:

1. Complex elements require specialist intervention and precise installation. And the cost of a high-quality auto-programmer will be at least $300.
2. Curtains can make it difficult to determine the correct temperature. When lowered, the sensor will have to take temperature data behind the curtain. In such a situation it is necessary to put mobile sensor into the room.
3. Low accuracy of the set temperature with manual valves and the inconvenience of manual adjustment to each battery.
4. After installation, mechanical models need to be configured. If the element is installed incorrectly, temperature control is disrupted.

Installing a thermostat on a heating radiator

Installing a temperature controller on a battery is not a very difficult task, but it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures and strictly follow some rules.

What you need to know before installation

So, before you start attaching the thermostat, first read some rules:

1. Do not install the thermostat on cast iron models, as this alloy is inert. The best choice– aluminum or bimetallic radiators.
2. Install the temperature controller no lower than 0.8 m from the floor.
3. Position the regulator so that it is convenient to adjust it.
4. Do not install automatic models behind radiator screens or draperies, otherwise the sensor will not work properly.
5. If the device is installed in a private house, the thermostat must be mounted on a radiator in the kitchen, living room or rooms on the upper floors.

It is worth noting that after the end of the heating season the device must be opened. This is done so that sediment from the coolant does not form on the valve.

Installation process

Immediately before installation, be sure to shut off the supply riser and drain the water from the batteries. Only after this can you proceed to installation. The latter is carried out according to the following plan:

1. First, cut off the pipe connections a short distance from the battery.
2. Disconnect the cut line and tap (if present) from the heater.
3. When using a single-pipe heating system, you need to weld a jumper between the return and supply lines.
4. You need to remove the shanks and nuts from the temperature regulator tap and shut-off valve, then screw them into the battery plugs.
5. Assemble the piping and secure it to the desired (selected) location.

Connection diagrams

1. Feed line; 2. Battery; 3. Temperature adjustment sensor; 4. Bottom tap; 5. Air vent (automatic or manual); 6. Jumper; 7. Return line; 8. Plug.

In the case of a single-pipe system, make the bypass diameter one size smaller than the diameter of the line pipeline.

In a two-pipe system, the thermostat can be installed on the upper inlet. This will make it easier to regulate the temperature.

Conclusion

Thermostats have proven to be the most efficient devices in individual systems heating also provide comfortable use and savings. Their use is advisable in rooms with the greatest temperature fluctuations. Such arrangement and regulation will give the optimal effect.