An efficient heating system will comfortable life in any home. Well, if the heating works very poorly, then the level of comfort will not be saved by any design delights. Therefore, now we will talk about diagrams and rules for installing elements of a system that heats a home.

What you need for assembly - 3 main parts

Any heating system consists of three basic components:

• heat source - this role can be played by a boiler, stove, fireplace;
• heat transfer line - usually this is the pipeline through which the coolant circulates;
• heating element - in traditional systems this is a classic radiator that converts the energy of the coolant into thermal radiation.

Boiler room layout in the house

Of course, there are schemes that exclude the first and second elements of this chain. For example, the well-known stove heating, when the source is also a heating element, and the heat transfer line is absent in principle. Or convection heating, when the radiator is excluded from the chain, since the source heats the air itself in the house to the desired temperature. However, the oven scheme was considered obsolete at the beginning of the twentieth century, and the convection option is very difficult to implement with your own hands without special knowledge and specific skills. Therefore, most household systems are built on the basis of a hot water boiler and a water circuit (piping).

As a result, to build the system we will need one boiler, several radiators (usually their number is equal to the number of windows) and fittings for the pipeline with associated fittings. Moreover, in order to assemble the heating of a private house, you will have to connect all these components within one system with your own hands. But before that, it would be nice to understand the parameters of each element - from the boiler to pipes and radiators, in order to know what to buy for your home.

Which boiler to choose and how to calculate its power

Water heating draws energy from a special boiler, the combustion chamber of which is surrounded by a jacket filled with liquid coolant. At the same time, any product can burn in the firebox - from gas to peat. Therefore, before assembling the system, it is very important to choose not only the power, but also the type of heat source. And you will have to choose between three options:

• Gas boiler - it processes main or bottled fuel into heat.
• Solid fuel heater - it is powered by coal, firewood or fuel pellets (pellets, briquettes).
• Electrical source - it converts electricity into heat.

The best option of all of the above is a gas heat generator running on main fuel. It is cheap to operate and operates continuously, since fuel is supplied automatically and in arbitrarily large volumes. Moreover, such equipment has virtually no disadvantages, except for the high fire hazard that is inherent in all boilers.

A good option for a heat generator that heats a private house without a gas pipeline, it is a solid fuel boiler. Especially models designed for long burning. Fuel for such boilers can be found anywhere, and the special design allows you to reduce the loading frequency from twice a day to once filling the firebox every 2-3 days. However, even such boilers are not exempt from periodic cleaning, so this is the main disadvantage of such a heater.

The worst choice of all possible is an electric boiler. The disadvantages of such a proposal are obvious - the transformation of electricity into coolant energy is too expensive. In addition, an electric boiler requires frequent replacement of the heater and the installation of a reinforced electrical wiring line, as well as grounding. The only advantage of this option is complete absence combustion products. An electric boiler does not require a chimney. Therefore, most households choose either gas or solid fuel options. However, in addition to the type of fuel, the homeowner also needs to pay attention to the parameters of the heat generator itself, or rather, to its power, which should compensate heat losses dwellings in winter.

Choosing a boiler based on power begins with calculating the square footage of the heated premises. Moreover, for each square meter there must be at least 100 watts of thermal power. That is, for a room of 70 square meters you need a boiler of 7000 watts or 7 kW. In addition, it would be a good idea to include a 15% reserve in the boiler power, which will be useful during severe cold weather. As a result, for a house of 70 m2 you need a boiler of 8.05 kW (7 kW 15%).

More accurate calculations of heater power rely not on the squares of the area, but on the volume of the house. In this case, it is generally accepted that the energy costs for heating one cubic meter equal to 41 watts. And a house with an area of ​​70 m2 with a 3-meter ceiling height should be heated by a heat-generating device with a capacity of 8610 watts (70 × 3 × 41). And taking into account the 15 percent power reserve for extreme cold, the maximum heat-generating capacity of such a boiler should be equal to 9901 watts or, taking into account rounding, 10 kW.

Batteries and pipes - copper, propylene or metal-plastic?

To install a heating system throughout the house, we need pipes and radiators. The latter can be chosen even based on aesthetic preferences. In a private house there is no high pressure in the system, therefore, there are no restrictions on the strength characteristics of radiators. However, the requirements for the heat-generating capacity of batteries still remain. Therefore, when selecting radiators, it will be correct to focus not only on appearance, but also on heat transfer. After all, the power of the heating element must correspond to the area or volume of the room. For example, in a room of 15 square meters there should be a battery (or several radiators) with a power of 1.5 kW.

With pipes the situation becomes more complicated. Here you need to take into account not only the aesthetic component, but also the ability to install the network on your own with minimal knowledge and effort on the part of a home-grown mechanic. Therefore, we can consider only three options as candidates for the role of ideal fittings for wiring:

• Copper pipes - they are used in the arrangement of both domestic and industrial heating systems, but are very expensive. In addition, such fittings are connected using soldering, and not everyone is familiar with this operation.
• Polypropylene pipes - they are cheap, but their installation requires a special welding machine. However, even a child can master such a device.
• Metal-plastic pipes - such a system can be assembled using a wrench. In addition, metal-plastic is no more expensive polypropylene pipes and allows you to save on corner fittings.

As a result, it is better to assemble home-made heating based on metal-plastic fittings, since it does not require the performer to be able to handle welding machine or a soldering iron. In turn, collet fittings of a metal-plastic pipeline can be installed even by hand, helping yourself with wrenches only on the last 3-4 turns. Regarding the dimensions of the fittings, or rather the bore diameter, experienced specialists in the arrangement of heating systems have the following opinion: for a system with a pump, you can choose a ½-inch pipe - this bore diameter is sufficient for a home system in excess.

Well, if pressure equipment will not be used (water will flow through the pipes by gravity, driven by gravitational and thermal convection), then a 1¼ or 1½ inch pipe will be sufficient for such a system. There is no need to buy reinforcement of a larger diameter under such circumstances. And which wiring to choose - pressure or non-pressure, we will talk about this below in the text, at the same time discussing the optimal diagrams for connecting batteries to the boiler.

Optimal wiring diagram for self-installation

Home heating is based on two schemes: one-pipe and two-pipe. In addition, household wiring can also be built on a collector basis, but it is difficult for novice craftsmen to assemble such a circuit, so further in the text we will not consider this option, focusing only on one- and two-pipe options.

Single-pipe wiring assumes the following coolant circulation plan: hot stream leaves the boiler jacket and flows through the pipe into the first battery, from which it enters the second and so on, until the outermost radiator. There is virtually no return in such a system - it is replaced by a short section connecting the outermost battery and the boiler. Moreover, when designing a single-pipe forced circuit, pressure equipment (circulation pump) is placed on this section.

This system is very easy to assemble. To do this, you need to install the boiler, hang the batteries and run one wiring thread between each preinstalled elements of the heating circuit. However, you will have to pay for the ease of installation by the lack of mechanisms for controlling the heat transfer of radiators. In this case, you can regulate the temperature in the room only by changing the intensity of fuel combustion in the boiler. And nothing else.

Of course, given the high cost of fuel, this nuance will suit only a few homeowners, so they try not to use single-circuit wiring in rooms with an area of ​​50 square meters or more. However, such wiring is simply ideal for small buildings, as well as for natural pattern coolant circulation, when the pressure is generated due to temperature and gravitational stimulation.

The two-pipe system is designed a little differently. In this case, the following coolant flow pattern applies: water leaves the boiler jacket and enters the pressure circuit, from which it drains into the first, second, third batteries, and so on. The return in this system is implemented in the form of a separate circuit, laid parallel to the pressure branch, and the coolant that has passed through the battery is drained into the return line, returning to the boiler. That is, in a double-circuit scheme, radiators are connected to the pressure and return pipes using special branches cut into two main lines.

To make such a circuit, you need to use more pipes and fittings, but all the costs will pay off in the near future. The dual-circuit option assumes the ability to adjust the heat transfer of each battery. To do this, it is enough to install a shut-off and control valve into the branch from the pressure line connected to the radiator, after which it becomes possible to control the volume of coolant pumped through the battery without interfering with the general circulation. Thanks to this, you can protect yourself not only from overheating the air in a particular room, but also from senseless overconsumption of fuel and personal funds allocated for its purchase.

This version of the wiring diagram has only one drawback: it is very difficult to assemble on its basis effective system on natural coolant circulation. But based on a pump, it works much better than its single-circuit counterpart. Therefore, further in the text we will consider step-by-step instructions for assembling a single-circuit system using natural circulation and a double-circuit network using forced coolant movement.

Assembling a heating system with natural circulation

Construction of a system with natural circulation starts with choosing a place for. The heat source should be in a corner room, located at the lowest point of the wiring. After all, the batteries will go along the internal perimeter, along the load-bearing walls, and even the last radiator should be located slightly above the boiler. Once the location for the boiler has been chosen, you can begin installing it. To do this, the wall in the placement area is covered with tiles, and either a galvanized sheet or a panel of flat slate. The next stage is the installation of the chimney, after which you can install the boiler itself, connecting it to the exhaust pipe and fuel line (if there is one)

Further installation is carried out in the direction of movement of the coolant and is implemented according to the following scheme. First, batteries are hung under the windows. Moreover, the upper pipe of the last radiator should be located above the pressure outlet from the boiler. The amount of elevation is calculated based on the proportion: one linear meter of wiring is equal to two centimeters of elevation. The penultimate radiator is hung 2 cm higher than the last one, and so on, up to the first battery in the direction of the coolant.

When the required number of batteries is already hanging on the walls of the house, you can proceed to assembling the wiring. To do this, you need to connect a 30-centimeter section of horizontal pipeline to the pressure pipe (or fitting) of the boiler. Next, a vertical pipe raised to the ceiling level is attached to this section. In this pipe, a tee is screwed onto a vertical line, providing a transition to a horizontal slope and arrangement of the insertion point for the expansion tank.

To install the tank, use a vertical tee fitting, and screw a second horizontal section to the free outlet pressure pipe, which is pulled at a slope (2 cm by 1 m) to the first radiator. There the horizontal turns into a second vertical section, descending to the radiator pipe, to which the pipe is joined using a collet fitting with a threaded elbow.

Next, you need to connect the upper pipe of the first radiator with the corresponding connector of the second radiator. To do this, use a pipe of appropriate length and two fittings. After this, the lower radiator pipes are connected in the same way. And so on, until the penultimate and last battery is connected. Finally, you need to install the Mayevsky faucet into the upper free fitting of the last battery and connect the return pipe to the lower free connector of this radiator, which is inserted into the lower pipe of the boiler.

To fill the system with water in the return pipe, you can install a tee insert with a ball valve on the side outlet. We connect the outlet from the water supply to the free end of this valve. After which the system can be filled with water and the boiler turned on.

Heating with forced circulation in 8 steps

It will also be justified in the case of single-circuit wiring. However maximum efficiency a system with forced circulation will be provided only by two-pipe wiring, arranged according to the following rules:

1. 1. The boiler can be installed on the floor or hung on the wall in any room without monitoring the level of the heating device.
2. 2. Next, two pipes are lowered from the boiler pressure and return pipes to the floor level, using either couplings or corner fittings.
3. 3. Two horizontal lines are installed at the ends of these pipes - pressure and return. They run along the load-bearing walls of the house, from the boiler to the location of the outermost battery.
4. 4. At the next stage, you need to hang the batteries, not paying attention to the level of the pipes relative to the adjacent radiator. The entrance and exit from the battery can be located at the same level or at different levels; this fact will not affect the heating efficiency.
5. 5. Next, we cut a tee into the pressure and return branches, placing them under the inlet and outlet of each battery. After this, we connect the tee of the pressure pipe to the inlet of the battery, and the fitting on the return line to the outlet. Moreover, this operation will have to be done with all batteries. Using a similar scheme, we install outlets in the system for connecting heated floors.
6. 6. At the next stage, we install the expansion tank. To do this, we cut a tee into the section of the pressure pipe between the boiler and the first battery, the outlet of which is connected by a vertical pipe to the entrance to the expansion tank.
7. 7. Next, you can begin installing the circulation pump. To do this, we install a valve and two tees in the return line between the first battery and the boiler, assembling a bypass for the pump. Next, we remove two L-shaped sections from the tees, between the ends of which we mount the pump.
8. 8. Finally, we arrange a drain for pouring water into the system. To do this, you need to cut another tee between the pump and the boiler, connecting a hose from the water supply to its outlet.

Acting according to this plan, you can assemble a two-pipe wiring in a house of any size. After all, the design of such a system does not depend on the number of batteries - the installation principle will be identical for both two and 20 radiators.

How to increase system efficiency - battery or bypass?

To increase the efficiency of heating systems in everyday life, either heat accumulators or bypasses are used. The first ones are installed in boiler rooms large area, the second - in small rooms, where, in addition to the boiler, there is other equipment. A heat accumulator is a container filled with water, inside which the pressure and return lines of the heating system are laid. As a rule, such a container is placed immediately behind the boiler. Safety valves, expansion tanks and circulation pumps can be embedded into the section of the pressure and return pipeline located between the heater and the battery.

In this case, the pressure line heats the water in the tank, and the return line heats up from the liquid poured into the battery. Therefore, when the boiler burner is turned off, the system can operate for some time only from a heat accumulator, which is very beneficial when used in a circuit that generates excess energy at the start of combustion of a portion of wood or coal supplied with the firebox. The capacity of the heat accumulator is determined by the proportion 1 kW of boiler power = 50 liters of tank volume. That is, for a 10 kW heater you need a battery with a capacity of 500 liters (0.5 m3).

A bypass is a bypass pipe that is welded between the pressure and return branches. Its diameter should not exceed the radius of the main highway. Moreover, it is better to install a shut-off valve into the bypass body in advance, blocking the circulation of the coolant.

When the valve is open, part of the hot flow does not go into the pressure circuit, but directly into the return circuit. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the heating temperature of the battery by 10 percent, reducing the volume of coolant pumped through the radiator by 30%. As a result, using a bypass, you can regulate the operation of the radiator in both double-circuit and single-circuit wiring. In the latter case, this is especially true, since the bypass embedded in the first two batteries provides stronger heating of the last radiator in the line and makes it possible to control the temperature in the rooms, although not with such efficiency as in the case of a two-pipe wiring.

In our country, where winter lasts six months, we need a good and convenient heating system that would warm the house in any bad weather. Water heating remains the most reliable means of fighting for warmth and comfort in a private home.

Scheme of operation of a water heating system.

Boilers are used as heating devices. various types fuel and even a regular stove. Where water heating uses a stove, the bore diameter of the pipes is increased and shut-off valves are reduced to a minimum.

Principle of operation

This system has gained popularity for its simplicity. Heating uses the following operating principle: the boiler heats water (or antifreeze) to the required temperature, it flows through pipes to radiators or radiators in the rooms, giving off heat, and returns to the boiler.

Diagram of a system with gravity flow of water.

Also, a water heating scheme may include:

• expansion tank - excess water generated during heating is discharged into it, and it also ensures the absence of oxygen in the system;
• the circulation pump maintains a constant circulation of water in the system, with its help the rate of heating of the room increases due to faster movement of water;
• pressure gauge;
• thermostats;
• air vent - automatic or shut-off;
• safety valves.

Boiler selection

When purchasing a boiler, as a rule, they take the value of 1 kW of power per 10 sq. m of heated living space, taking into account that the ceiling height is no more than 3 meters. They also take into account the volume of the room, the degree of insulation of a private house, the size of windows, and the presence of additional heat consumers.

With heated area: from 60 to 200 sq. m – boiler power up to 25 kW, from 200 to 300 sq. m – 25-35 kW, from 300 to 600 sq. m – 35-60 kW, from 600 to 1200 sq. m – up to 100 kW.

You can choose an electric boiler - with an area of ​​a private house from 30 to 1000 square meters. m, you can use boilers with a power of 3 to 105 kW, respectively. The disadvantages of electric boilers are the high cost of electricity, power outages or insufficient power.

Nuances of operation

When using an oven, to improve system performance, the difference between the lowest point cold water(return) and the upper point of hot water are maximized. The riser is brought to the ceiling. In any case, water heating calculations are carried out. If a heating boiler is used, it is recommended to lower it lower, if possible, for example, into the basement. This arrangement allows you to increase the height of the riser and give the water a greater impulse of movement. Consequently, efficiency will increase and the house will warm up more evenly.

Fuel

To heat the boiler, different types of fuel are used: natural gas, coal, wood. Centralized energy supply or alternative energy sources such as mini-hydro stations, solar or wind converters can also be used.

Pipe selection

When installing water heating, pipes made of different materials are used. Each has its own pros and cons.

Steel

Steel pipes used to be the most popular, but are used less and less in modern construction. The disadvantage of conventional steel pipes is their susceptibility to corrosion, so they use stainless or galvanized pipes, which are more reliable.

Copper

Copper pipes can withstand high temperatures and pressure, will last for generations, and are the most reliable for use in a private home. Their only drawback is their high cost.

Polymer

Polymer pipes are made of metal-plastic (aluminum coated with plastic) or polypropylene reinforced with aluminum.
Main advantages:

• corrosion resistance;
• strength;
• no sediment is deposited on the inner surface;
• low cost of installation work, because welding is not required.

Among the disadvantages is the high coefficient thermal expansion, during the cold period, temporary cessation of boiler operation or freezing of the heating system can lead to damage to the pipes.

System design

A single-circuit system is intended only for heating the room. This heating scheme has a simple operating principle, is inexpensive and is suitable for houses up to 100 square meters. m. Includes a single-circuit boiler with atmospheric exhaust, single-pipe distribution with pipes made of steel or polymer materials, as well as cast iron, aluminum or steel radiators.

Scheme of single-circuit heating of a room.

This system can be improved by adding two-pipe wiring, a circulation pump, and thermostatic valves on radiators. With a single-circuit boiler to supply hot water for domestic needs, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a gas water heater or boiler. The dual-circuit system is used for both home heating and water heating.

Dual circuit system

A double-circuit boiler is convenient when a family needs hot water of no more than four people, and taking into account that the water is tap or softened (hard water from a well is not suitable). Two single-circuit systems can also be made, one of them will heat the room, the other will heat the water. This will allow you to use only the water heating system in summer, which consumes 25% of the boiler power.

Construction of a double-circuit boiler.

The most common classification of water heating systems takes into account the piping layout. Water heating can be either two-pipe or single-pipe.

Single-pipe heating system

A single-pipe system is a system in which heated water from the boiler sequentially passes from one battery to the next. As a result, the last battery will be cooler than the first; as a rule, such a system is used in apartment buildings. Most significant drawback– it is difficult to manage a single-pipe distribution, because if you block the access of water to one of the radiators, then all the others will also be blocked.

Two-pipe heating system

In a two-pipe system, a pipe with hot and cold water goes to each radiator. Water heating of a private house allows you to comfortably regulate the temperature in the rooms.

Collector (radial) - from the collector (a device in the heating system that collects coolant) two pipes are connected to each heating device - forward and return. This makes it easy to install heating systems with hidden pipe wiring, and also makes it possible to maintain and regulate the set temperature in a separate room. To do this, on each floor of the house there are collectors in a special cabinet, from which independently connected pipes go to the radiators. Disadvantages are the cost of pipes and installation of manifold cabinets.

Pumps

Additionally, when laying heating pipelines for a country house, circulation pumps are installed - they do an excellent job of circulating water in big houses with a long length of pipes, they save fuel consumption, and also heat the room faster due to the rapid movement of water.

Experts recommend that for one-story houses with a steep roof and a basement, make a scheme with vertical risers and two-pipe wiring. When installing water heating with your own hands, it is important to think about where the exhaust gases will go. To ensure their exit, you need to install a special pipe.

Calculation of water heating

First you need to calculate the system. First of all, it is necessary to remember that the need for heating will directly depend on factors such as heat loss through window and door openings, as well as through walls, floors and ceilings. Thus, to calculate the power of a heating boiler, you need to know the principle of operation of the system and the degree of heat loss by the finishing and design materials from which the house is made.

Those walls of a private house that are in direct contact with the external atmosphere conduct heat more efficiently. In this case, the degree of heat loss will increase with each temperature difference between the internal and external sides of the wall. The normal temperature is considered to be 20 °C.

When calculating water heating, this indicator should be summed with the largest negative temperature, characteristic of a particular area. When calculating heat loss, you need to calculate the exact area of ​​the end (external) walls, door and window openings, ceilings, floors, and then multiply these data by the degree of heat loss per square meter of a private house. After this, all results are summed up.

The correct calculation of the location of the distribution boiler is very important, since the number of bends and the length of sections of the residential heating system in a private house will directly depend on this.

Installation features

Before you start installing water heating with your own hands, it is worth considering the most popular and practical systems, advantages and disadvantages, installation principles, as well as suitable types of radiators.

Homemade house construction is always associated with the organization of space heating. This issue is thought through long before the start of the relevant work. There are many options. They are considered by any person who is going to provide heating for a country house with their own hands. Quite often there are cases when no one can help with advice. Company specialists charge a fee for this, which makes their services not the most profitable option. You have to think through everything yourself.

Nuances and subtleties

Those who want to make homemade heating should remember that they should only use those types of pipes that have a small diameter, since only they can support high temperature water and effectively create and maintain the necessary temperature regime in the Russian climate.

However, they also have their disadvantages. In particular, installation of water heating due to the small diameter of the pipes cannot be carried out without first overhaul the entire room. In addition, as for the water heating system itself, it requires constant heating of the coolant.

Therefore, if you forgot to drain the water from the pipes of your private home in winter time years and left it for a long time, then you should expect trouble, since under the influence of low temperatures the pipes may simply break. As a result, upon your return you will be forced to repair the entire water heating system, since the main part of the pipeline will be damaged.

But even if you remember to drain water from heating pipes that have a small diameter, they can still suffer from corrosion, since the presence of air will take place, which will lead to the formation of internal condensation on the walls of the pipeline.

Water heating of a country house means an affordable cost of materials for installation and further operation, as well as good results in creating warmth and comfort in the home.

Go shopping

1. What you need to install a working water heating system?

Here's the full list:

• Boiler. It should provide minimal operating costs and, if possible, require minimal attention from the owner;
• Boiler piping— safety group (air vent, pressure gauge and safety valve), a circulation pump and an expansion tank that compensates for the increase in volume when heated;

I deliberately excluded from consideration open gravity systems, in which the functions of the entire piping are performed by an open expansion tank. They are extremely simple in design, but differ from closed systems with forced circulation in the long heating time, large temperature spread between heating devices and scale formation in the boiler heat exchanger.

• Pipes— bottling, connections to radiators and (optional) heating risers;
• Actually heating devices and their piping— shut-off taps or throttles for separate adjustment.

Boiler

1. How to choose a boiler for water heating?

If you have gas in your house or area, great. A cheaper source of heat cannot be found: obtained by burning natural gas thermal energy costs only 50-70 kopecks per kilowatt-hour.

The most economical type of gas boilers is with electric ignition.

What are the savings?

• The absence of a pilot burner saves up to 25% of the gas that burns when the boiler is idle, when the coolant is heated to a sufficiently high temperature;
• Another 10 - 12% savings are provided by the utilization of the heat of condensation of water vapor, which in traditional boilers leaves the house along with the rest of the combustion products.

In the absence of a gas pipeline near the house, the remaining heat sources are arranged according to efficiency in the following order:

A few nuances:

• Power supply gas boiler There may be not only main gas, but also cylinders or your own gas tank. But in this case, the cost of a kilowatt-hour will increase to 3 and 2.3 rubles, respectively;
• I gave average prices at the time of writing (beginning of 2017), relevant for the central regions of the country at a short distance from the capital. However, regional energy prices and local utility tariffs may make their own adjustments.
  Let's say, in Moscow, a kilowatt-hour of electricity costs 5 rubles, not 4, at a single-rate tariff. In Sevastopol, where I live, pellets are twice as expensive as in the Moscow region - 15,000 rubles per ton versus 7,000;
• To light a solid fuel boiler using coal, firewood is needed, which will further increase operating costs and time;

• Gas, diesel and electric boilers can operate without maintenance as long as electricity, gas or liquid fuel is supplied. A pellet boiler with a hopper and a pellet feeding mechanism is capable of autonomous operation for a week. The solid fuel boiler will have to be melted and cleaned of ash several times a day;

Some types of boilers are designed for longer autonomous operation. For example, pyrolysis (smoldering of wood with limited access of air followed by afterburning of combustion products in a separate chamber) increases autonomy to 10-12 hours. Top combustion boilers with a telescopic air duct are even capable of operating on one burner for up to a day.

• Replacing diesel fuel with waste fuel will reduce operating costs by 5-6 times. However, waste boilers are not very popular, since only car service workers have a permanent supply channel for used motor oil.

Another source of cheap heat is an exhaust boiler.

For a private house with high-quality insulation of walls and ceilings, located in the central regions of the country, the boiler power is selected at the rate of 100 watts per square meter of area.

For houses in northern or southern regions, buildings with poor quality or, conversely, very effective insulation and with great height for ceilings, it is better to use the formula Q=V*Dt*k/860.

Variables in this formula (from left to right):

• Heat demand of the room in kilowatts;
• Its volume in cubic meters;
• The temperature difference between the street and the house (it is usually taken equal to the difference between the sanitary norm -18 - 22 degrees - and the temperature of the coldest five-day period in your locality);
• Insulation coefficient. It can be selected from the table:

For example, for a house measuring 10x10x6 meters with brick walls 50 cm thick and double-glazed windows, located in Surgut (the temperature of the coldest five days of winter is -43), the heat demand will be (10*10*6)*(22 - -43)*1.9/860=86 kilowatts.

1. Is there an inexpensive alternative solid fuel boilers in the absence of gas?

Heat pumps operate on electricity, but do not use it to directly heat the air in the house, but to pump heat from a low-potential source - soil, water or air.

Since electricity is consumed only by the compressor, for every kilowatt-hour of electricity the owner receives from three to six kilowatt-hours of heat, which reduces heating costs to comparable with solid fuel heating and even gas.

Many potential buyers are put off by the high cost of heat pumps and the expensive installation of a heating system. Suffice it to say that installing a geothermal pump requires drilling wells several tens of meters deep or laying a horizontal collector in a pit with an area three times the size of the house.

However, in warm regions, an air-to-air heating scheme can be implemented: a heat pump takes energy from the air outside the house and heats it without the mediation of a coolant, simply by blowing on the internal heat exchanger.

Doesn't remind you of anything?

That's right, that's how everyone works household air conditioner in heating mode.

A household split system is a special case of a heat pump.

I use air conditioners as the main source of heat for my home.

Here is a brief report on their operation:

• Four inverters constantly working in winter, together with the installation, cost me about 110 thousand rubles;
• The heated area of ​​the house is 154 m2. It maintains a temperature of 20-22 degrees;
• Air conditioners continue to operate for heating even during the rare frosts in Sevastopol (the minimum temperature with which the heating system was tested was -21 degrees);
• Electricity consumption for heating in the winter months is approximately 1500 kWh. The reader can calculate how much this is in money using local tariffs.

The photo shows external units of air conditioners heating the bedroom and children's room on the first floor.

Boiler piping

1. How to choose a boiler piping?

I have already listed its main elements. However, there are subtleties here too.

When choosing a circulation pump, look first at its performance. A minimum pressure of 2 meters (0.2 kgf/cm2) is quite enough to make the heating system of an apartment building work.

The pump capacity is selected using the formula Q=0.86R/Dt.

In it:

• Q is the desired value in cubic meters per hour;
• R - power of the boiler or circuit served by a pump with forced circulation of coolant;
• Dt is the temperature difference between supply and return (usually it is approximately 20 degrees).

So, for our freezing house in Surgut we will need a pump with a capacity of 0.86*86/20=3.7 m3/h.

The safety valve must be set to the maximum permissible pressure for the heating system (usually 2.5 kgf/cm2.

The volume of the membrane expansion tank is usually taken with a small margin equal to 1/10 of the volume of coolant in the circuit. To find out the last parameter with maximum accuracy, just fill the circuit with water and pour it into a container of known volume.

In a balanced heating system with aluminum or bimetallic radiators, the volume of coolant is approximately 15 liters per kilowatt of boiler power.

The standard charging pressure for the expansion tank is 1.5 kgf/cm2. Approximately the same operating pressure should be maintained in the heating system during operation. It can be increased using a tap connecting the heating circuit to the cold water system, or by simply pumping air into the expansion tank through the spool.

Pipes

1. What pipes should be used for heating in the house??

In my opinion, the best material for an autonomous water heating system is polypropylene reinforced with aluminum foil.

Why him?

• These pipes are among the cheapest. So, with an outer diameter of 20 mm, a linear meter of pipe costs only 70 rubles. Compare this cost with corrugated stainless steel (from 290 rubles per meter) and copper (from 400 rubles);
• Their connections are maintenance-free and are as durable as a solid pipe. The fitting can be hidden in a groove or screed;
• The strength and heat resistance of polypropylene is quite sufficient for the modest operating parameters of an autonomous system (up to +75C at a pressure of no more than 2.5 atmospheres).

Why do I recommend reinforced pipes and specifically aluminum?

It's not about resistance to hydrostatic pressure- it’s already redundant. The key words are “elongation when heated.” In this parameter, polypropylene without reinforcement is ahead of the rest: a meter-long pipe heated by 50 degrees becomes 6.5 mm longer. Reinforcement with glass fiber reduces elongation to 3.1 mm, and with aluminum to 1.5 mm/meter.

For comparison - steel pipe under the same conditions it will lengthen by 0.5 mm.

When installing long straight bottling sections, the pipes are opened with expansion joints - ring or U-shaped bends, which avoid deformation of the pipeline.

1. What should the diameter of the pipes be??

The internal diameter is selected depending on the thermal load on the corresponding section of the circuit. For bottling, the heat load is equal to the power of the boiler, for connections - the power of the heating device, for the riser - the total heat transfer of all devices connected to it.

The internal diameter values ​​are selected from another table.

The diameter can be reduced by increasing the coolant speed (read: pump performance). However, a trap awaits us here: as the flow speed increases, hydraulic noise will appear - first at the throttling valves, and then at all fitting connections. Therefore, it is better to select the speed from the range 0.4 - 0.6 m/s (blue columns in the table).

In a natural circulation system, the filling diameter increases by at least one step. The instruction is related to the minimum hydraulic pressure that ensures the movement of the coolant: as the diameter increases, the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline decreases.

Heating devices

1. Which batteries are best to buy??

Our choice is aluminum sectional radiators. Cheap and cheerful: maximum heat transfer (with a standard battery size - approximately 200 watts per section) and minimum price (from 300 rubles).

1. How to choose the number of sections?

Heater power for separate room is calculated according to the same scheme as the heat demand of the house. To convert the power into the number of sections, it is enough to divide it by the heat flow from one section. It is always indicated by the manufacturer in technical documentation to the device.

There is one subtlety here. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates the heat flow for a very specific temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room - 70 degrees (90C/20C).

As the coolant cools or the air heats up, the power of the section will drop in proportion to the temperature delta: say, at 60C in the battery and 25C in the room, the section will deliver half the rated power.

Heating appliances

1. What fittings are needed to disconnect and adjust batteries?

If you only plan to turn off the radiators (if there is excess heat or for repairs), install ball valves on both connections to the battery. They are durable, fail-safe and always seal in the closed position.

For throttling (adjusting the flow rate) it is customary to use needle throttles, or valves for radiators. The inside is a typical screw valve with a metal valve.

If you want the passage of the connections to be adjusted automatically, your choice is valves with thermal heads. After rough adjustment, they will change their capacity depending on the air temperature in the room.

Wiring

1. How to heat the house?

The simplest and most fault-tolerant scheme is a single-pipe Leningrad, a filling ring around the perimeter of the house with heating devices connected parallel to it. Its main drawback is the large temperature difference between the first and last radiators.

If the house has several heated floors, a two-pipe heating system is usually installed. It can be dead-end (when the coolant, when flowing from supply to return, turns 180 degrees) and passing (the direction of movement of the coolant is maintained).

A dead-end circuit requires mandatory balancing - limiting the passage of the radiators closest to the boiler with chokes. Without balancing, the main volume of the coolant circulates through these radiators, and distant devices practically do not heat. In my memory, this at least once led to a serious accident - defrosting of the circuit in extreme cold.

The associated circuit (Tichelman loop) forms several parallel circuits of the same length. In it, the temperature of the radiators is always approximately the same without balancing.

A dead-end two-pipe scheme is used in cases where some obstacle (high opening, load-bearing wall, etc.) prevents the Tichelman loop from looping.

Installation

1. How to solder polypropylene pipes yourself?

For this you will need:

• Shaver (stripping) to remove reinforcement from the soldering area;

The shaver also removes the outer chamfer on the pipe, simplifying installation of the fitting.

• Scissors - pipe cutter;
• Soldering iron with nozzles of the appropriate diameter and operating temperature of 260 degrees.

The connection is installed as follows:

• The shaver is placed on the pipe and made several turns, removing the aluminum foil;

If left, the foil in contact with water will gradually deteriorate. This will lead to delamination of the pipe and a decrease in the strength of the connection.

• The pipe is inserted into the socket of the nozzle heated to operating temperature. At the same time, a fitting is put on the second side of the nozzle;
• The melted parts are combined in a translational (without rotation) motion and held motionless for several seconds. After the melted plastic has set, you can proceed to installing the next connection.

1. Where to install the security group?

At the outlet of the boiler. This is where the pressure begins to increase when the filling capacity is insufficient or the circulation rate is low.

1. Where is the expansion tank installed??

At any point in the circuit, but no closer than two filling diameters from the pump when installed in front of it and no closer than ten filling diameters when installed after the pump. Otherwise, the turbulence that occurs during rotation of the impeller will sharply reduce the life of the tank membrane.

1. Can a gravity heating system be converted to forced circulation?

Quite: the pump can be installed in both a closed and an open circuit.

Typically, installation of heating with the ability to work with both natural and forced circulation is performed as follows:

• The diameter and configuration of the filling (slope, accelerating manifold, height difference between the boiler and heating devices) are made typical for a gravity system;
• In front of the boiler, two outlets are welded parallel to the filling, between which a pump is connected;
• A ball check valve is installed between the taps.

When the pump is running, the valve is activated and closes the bypass. The coolant circulates with high speed forcibly. As soon as the pump turns off due to a power outage, the system automatically switches to natural circulation mode: the valve opens and water moves freely through the filling.

Instead of a check valve, a regular valve or ball valve is sometimes installed. In this case, the system must be switched to natural circulation mode with your own hands.

Conclusion

Of course, in a small volume of material it is difficult to answer all the issues related to autonomous heating questions. You will find more information in the video in this article. Feel free to leave your comments on the portal. Good luck, comrades!

The main advantage of a private house is that there is complete independence from various utilities. At the same time, they should be, but much more effective than they are offered today utility services. Probably the most important thing is that in your home the heating season can begin when you wish and end when it is convenient for you. But how it will take place is also important. And below we will look at how to arrange the heating of a private house with your own hands, we will offer videos and diagrams that will help you master all stages of this important process.

	Types of heating boilers: gas, electric, coal, combined.
	Types heating systems and their installation: air heating, water heating, steam heating, electric heating.
	Warm floors in a private house.
	Combined heating.

You can’t just buy a heating system in a store and install it in your home. Of course, all its components are sold on the market or in a store, but you definitely won’t be able to get by with just one set. To create a heating system for a private home with your own hands, first of all, you must know:

• How will the house be heated?
• What energy carrier should be used in the system?

Designing a heating system is one of the most important stages in the communications of a private home. After this, it is necessary to perform a lot of calculations to determine the required number of heating radiators and pipes. All this must meet each other in different parameters.

First of all, you must decide which boiler can heat the house.

What types of heating boilers are there?

I would like it to be warm in a private home, and that it can be achieved with minimal human intervention. For this reason, the heating boiler should be purchased based on what type of fuel would be better suited for its smooth operation.

Boilers can be:

• electrical;

• gas;

• coal;

• combined.

Attention! All modern boiler models are more or less economical, operate without any noise, are small in size, and are easy to maintain. However, all boilers, even coal boilers, require electricity to start.

A gas boiler

If there is gas in the house, this is the most inexpensive and easiest way to heat your home. Modern models gas boilers operate silently, are designed for a specific power, can be double-circuit, which means they are capable of both heating and providing housing hot water.

Electric boiler

With the help of electricity you can provide environmentally friendly and efficient heating. large space. Moreover, the power range of boilers that should be used in private homes can vary from 4 to 300 kW.

The main advantages of such boilers:

• they can heat up to 300 m2 of housing, and they are located on two or even three floors;
• they do not require special ventilation and a chimney;
• they do not pollute or emit anything;
• differ in compact sizes.

Some disadvantages:

• Requires powerful electrical wiring in a three-phase network and stable voltage.
• Heating costs can be quite expensive.

Like all powerful modern boilers, electric boilers not only heat living space, but are also used to heat water.

Coal boiler

Solid fuel boilers are quite efficient. Their operation is based on the operating principle of Kolpakov furnaces. It is as follows: an already heated boiler requires fuel to maintain a stable coolant temperature (once a day). These devices are characterized high efficiency, close to 100%.

Modern coal boilers are made floor-standing. They are quite compact in size. Their body does not heat up during operation.

Main advantages:

• you can burn not just coal, but also wood, including waste that burns (sawdust, paper, peat);
• high power;
• small sizes;
• inexpensive type of fuel.

Main disadvantages:

• modern solid fuel boiler models can be effective, but their main drawback is dirt during their operation (you need to find a place to store coal and dispose of burnt ash);
• They take quite a long time to warm up (to achieve high power, at least 30 minutes must pass after the fuel ignites);
• a well-designed chimney is important;
• more than it holds combustion chamber, you cannot fill it with coal, otherwise the fuel may become “stuck” (become a monolithic structure that cannot be turned, reached, or broken).

Attention! Preparing for the heating season with a solid fuel boiler directly depends on the homeowner. Whether the house will be warm depends on what and how much fuel he buys.

Combination boilers

It’s not that these boilers are inefficient, it’s just that their efficiency is no more than 90%. There can only be one combination here - gas and solid fuel.

Such heating units are used when the house is built and you plan to supply gas, but next winter. For this reason, owners prefer to purchase a coal-fuel boiler and heat it with solid fuel the first winter.

The transition from one fuel to another occurs by changing burners. This is quite easy and can be done fairly quickly.

Each boiler is part of the heating system, although it will not be very important. Its choice, namely the characteristics, should be based on what kind of energy carrier will circulate in the system.

What are the types of heating systems?

Today, six main types of heating systems can be used in a private home:

• air heating (in this case, the energy carrier is hot air);

• water heating (water circulates through the pipes, which has been heated to the required temperature);

• electric (the home is heated using electric heating elements);

• steam (steam circulates through pipes);

• combined heating(there may be a variety of options);

• warm floor.

Each of them has its advantages, but there are also some disadvantages.

Water heating in a private house

The most affordable, simple, and does not require special operating conditions is water heating. Its operating principle is as follows: it is necessary to correctly calculate the number of batteries and decide on the choice of a powerful boiler. You need to pour water into ready-made system and at the end of the season there is no need to drain it.

It should be noted that water for the heating system in a private house can only be filtered (while in central networks it is additionally softened), so it is important to choose batteries more carefully.

This system is the easiest to maintain. Water circulation in it can occur in two ways:

• by gravity;
• using a pump.

Be that as it may, a do-it-yourself water heating system in a private house can be exclusively of a closed type.

Features of forced water circulation

A centrifugal or circulator pump is installed in a water heating system. Its main task is to supply water to and from the boiler (when heating) once at a certain interval.

Modern heating systems have automated this process. For this reason, human intervention to start the pump and control the temperature is absolutely unnecessary. Compulsory system energy carrier makes it possible to heat a private house on several floors well.

Natural water circulation

This method of moving water through the system is used extremely rarely today. It is built on the elementary laws of physics, when cold and warm waters move due to different weights. Water can flow by gravity in a system where all pipes are at a slight slope. Natural circulation of water is justified in one-story houses.

Any of the above boilers can operate in a water heating system.

Installation of a water heating system in a private house

It is necessary to make accurate calculations of the number of batteries and pipes. All this is done taking into account the area of ​​​​the room that needs to be heated. All boilers, except electric ones, will require a chimney.

The heating system of a private house can be:

• with two pipes (feed and processing);

• with one pipe (supply of heated water by the boiler).

To begin with, the radiators are placed in the required level. You can watch our video on how to install and select them.

The next stage is pipe installation. Now metal pipes Using them is quite troublesome and unprofitable, but you can easily install polypropylene ones with your own hands.

Thick-walled polypropylene pipes are used for heating. They are laid throughout all rooms (so that they can move freely from one to another, you need to make holes in the walls slightly larger than the diameter of the pipes). They are connected in the right places using special welding.

Installation of a two-pipe system

A pipe runs from the boiler to the expansion tank. The boiler should be installed on the first floor of the house, and the boiler on the second or simply above the boiler level.

After the boiler, the hot water is directed to the boiler. Two pipes come out of it: up with cooled water, down with heated water. In each room, pipes are connected to batteries.

Installation of a one-pipe system

To install a heating system in this way, fewer pipes will be needed. The system can only be with top wiring. It is perfect for small private houses with attics. The batteries are connected in series. Therefore, each next one will be a little colder.

The system must have:

• extended tank;
• boiler;
• water purification filters;
• batteries;
• perhaps a pump.

Attention! Setting the temperature in a home with such a system is very problematic. One disconnected battery can bring the entire system to a standstill.

As soon as you decide on the type of system, circulation diagram and pipe routing, you need to draw on paper a diagram of the water heating of the house indicating the location of the boiler, batteries, shut-off valves, fittings, and other additional equipment (hydraulic storage or expansion tank, circulation pump, safety unit, filter etc.).

You also need to measure and draw on the diagram the distance between them, the diagram and the diameter of the wiring. Moreover, such schemes should be developed for each room of the house and separately one general scheme for the entire house. Compiling them will not cause you any difficulties, and during installation everything will be simple and clear: what is installed and where, connection methods.

DIY installation of water heating in a private house: video, diagrams

Installation of such heating includes the following steps:

• Installation of one or more heating boilers.

• Battery installation.

• Pipe routing.

• Installation of necessary additional equipment.

• Connecting all elements into a single system using soldering (welding), wiring and fittings.

Boiler installation

The installation of a heating boiler is always chosen based on the maximum simplification of pipe distribution around the house and their minimum consumption. Moreover, when installing an electric or gas boiler, you need to take into account the location of the future or existing electrical or gas pipeline entry.

When choosing a place to install a stove with a water circuit or a solid fuel boiler, the determining factor is the possibility of installing a chimney in a certain place in the house.

The installation height of the boilers is of fundamental importance for water heating with natural circulation. In this case, the lower the “processing” input into the boiler, the better. The best option for a solid fuel boiler would be to place it on ground floor at home or in the basement. With stove water heating, it is also necessary that the firebox with the heat exchanger located in it (coil, register) be located as low as possible.

Installation of heating radiators

Typically, radiators are located at the entrance to the room or under the windows. Their installation is carried out depending on their size and type of mounting. The greater the weight of the heating radiator, the more reliable the fastening should be.

The batteries are installed horizontally with slight indentations from the floor (60 mm) and from the window sill - 100 mm. It would be good if you install taps (steam fittings), an automatic air valve and a regulator on each radiator. Shut-off valves will be needed to disconnect the radiator from the heating system. The air valve automatically bleeds air from the radiator, both when starting the heating system and during its operation.

Pipe routing and installation of additional equipment

As a rule, pipe routing begins from the heating boiler, in accordance with the previously drawn up installation diagram, and using the necessary fittings (tees, angles, connectors, adapters, etc.). All types of pipes differ in their installation and wiring features.

The wiring can be of an open type, when the heating pipes remain visible, or hidden, when it is laid in special grooves or niches and, after installation, is sealed with putty or plaster.

Along with the pipework, the batteries are connected and additional equipment for water heating of the house is installed. IN closed systems heating with forced circulation - this means installing a circulation pump, filter, hydraulic storage tank, safety unit (pressure gauge, safety and air valves). In open heating systems with natural circulation, this is an expansion tank installed at the highest point of water heating.

Typically, in open systems with forced circulation, the expansion tank is installed in front of the circulation pump and fixed at the maximum height (in the attic or under the ceiling).

Air heating

This heating method is now quite in demand. Air heating implies the presence in each room of special ventilation ducts or air heaters through which hot air enters. Such devices are located on the ceiling or walls.

There are three types of air heating:

• central;
• local;
• curtains of air.

Local heating

This method of heating a home cannot be classified as full-fledged heating, but be that as it may, it can be of high quality. To do this, you need to install in each room heat guns or fan heaters and enjoy the warmth. There will be heat in the room only if the doors are closed.

The heat fan is installed in the room, but you can install it in the wall as part of the central air heating.

Central heating at home

Systems where hot air is supplied centrally to the house can be:

• with full recirculation;
• with direct-flow recirculation;
• with partial recirculation.

Usually, ventilation ducts are above suspended ceiling, leaving holes through which hot air will enter the room.

All this can be done in the walls, if the space allows you to take away a certain part in order to hide the pipes.

Air curtains

Devices that resemble air conditioners should be installed near entrance doors or above them. A stream of warm air comes out of the curtain, blocking the cold air entering the room when the door is opened. Such a curtain in a private house can be installed only at the entrance, provided that the doors are often opened.

Making air heating in a private house with your own hands will be more expensive than water heating. Any boiler (usually gas or electric) can heat air.

The advantages of such a heating system:

• The circulation of warm air is always carried out after its filtration is completed.
• The house reigns constant influx fresh air, since the system takes it from the street.
• Possibility of installing a drip humidifier.

Flaws:

• High cost of installation.
• Inability to install the system in the house.

DIY installation of air heating in a private house: video, diagrams

Do-it-yourself air heating of a country house requires the presence of the following equipment:

• heat generator;
• air vents;
• decorative grilles;
• fan;
• hoses for air intake from outside the house.

Main stages of installation

Do-it-yourself aerial equipment goes through several stages:

• installation of heat exchanger and boiler;

• fan installation;

• installation, distribution of air ducts;

• insulation of supply and return channels;

• creating a hole in the wall of the building for air intake and installing the hose.

Air heating of a private house begins with the installation of a boiler. It is usually installed in the basement. It is prohibited to connect the boiler to the gas main, as you need to call a specialist. You can make a chimney from a sheet of tin. The upper part of the heat exchanger is fixed with the supply air vent, and a fan is mounted directly under the combustion chamber. Next with outside a return pipe is connected to it, after which the first stage can be considered complete.

The wiring process always begins with the connection of flexible air vents to the supply channel main. They usually have a round cross-section. Then they make a return air vent, the diameter of which is larger, but such a channel will have fewer outlets than the supply one.

To prevent condensation from forming in the sleeve, it should be insulated. Then a throttle valve is installed in the pipe, with the help of which the process of regulating the amount of fresh air entering is carried out. When the system is installed, it makes sense to hide all the wires and pipes with plasterboard boxes, giving the room greater aesthetics.

Electric heating

This heating is based on the presence electric convector in every room. The more modern the device, the more functions it has. For example, this could be a temperature controller. It can be automatic: you yourself set the temperature at which the convector turns off, and when it decreases it turns on.

Advantages of electric heating:

• speed of installation;
• ease of use;
• possibility of placing convectors between rooms.

Flaws:

• availability of a good electrical network;
• high energy costs.

This heating will be justified only as a temporary option, and where other types of fuel are not available.

Steam heating

Its operating principle is exactly the same as in a water system. The only difference is that steam circulates through the pipes. This type of heating is used in private homes. Its principle of operation and installation is exactly the same as with air circulation.

You can heat a room in this way using special boilers that work together with a device that produces steam. The system must have filters that prepare the water before it turns into a gaseous state.

Such a system for a private home has many more disadvantages than advantages:

• quite expensive installation (considering the special boiler and filters);
• operation of the system can be dangerous (if a battery or pipe bursts, a person nearby may be burned).

The advantages include energy savings and the heating speed of the entire heating system.

Do-it-yourself installation of electric heating in a private house: video, diagrams

Electric boilers are divided into wall-mounted and floor-mounted according to the installation method. Important advantage such a boiler - no additional room is required for its installation. Moreover, it is convenient to carry and easy to dismantle.

Installation is carried out in the shortest possible time. The device is installed in houses with an area of ​​up to 500 m2.

It should be noted that you can install an electric boiler yourself, and you will not need a large number of approvals (only permission from Energonadzor).

The boiler is attached to the wall with anchor bolts or dowels. The device must hang level, in a horizontal or vertical plane (depending on the specific model).

Typically, floor-standing boilers are installed on special stands, and ball valves are used to shut off the water. Important point: When connecting the boiler, the water in the heating system must be turned off.

Having connected the boiler to the heating system, we begin to work with the electrical part. Installation required circuit breaker, grounding.

The cross-section of the wires is selected with full consideration of the recommendations from the manufacturer and in strict accordance with the power of the device. Having connected the boiler to the power supply, you need to fill the system with water and then check its operation.

Warm floor system

Warm floors are often installed on the ground floor of a private house. However, heat is best supplied through ceramic tiles. Therefore, the installation of such a system, where parquet, laminate or linoleum is used as flooring, is impractical, since they are characterized by low heat conductivity.

The essence of these systems is the same - heat will penetrate into the room immediately, but the installation, as well as the principle of operation, are different.

Water heated floor

Pipes that are connected to a common water heating system are laid on a flat surface on a special substrate that does not allow heat to escape downwards.

Installation of a water heated floor with your own hands: video, diagrams

1. Preparatory stage.

Before installing underfloor heating, you need to prepare a flat and solid base. It consists of steam or waterproofing, insulation and cement-sand screed.

Moreover, the room must be equipped with doors and windows and must have plastered walls, marked connections for sewer, heating and water pipelines.

1. Preparing the floor slab.

If you are installing a heated floor on reinforced concrete slab ceiling, then first a layer of hydro- or vapor barrier is laid on it. They use coating waterproofing based on bitumen or adhesive using fiberglass, roofing felt, fiberglass, which are also glued with compounds containing bitumen.

As a vapor barrier, you can use polyethylene tiles, the thickness of which should be at least 0.2 mm or other similar materials. Both vapor and waterproofing must protect the insulation from moisture, which can form as a result of condensation during the interaction of cold earth and a warm floor slab.

Pasted waterproofing or vapor barrier from film is carried out by laying strips of material with an overlap of 10-15 cm. If film is used, then you need to fasten the edges of the panels with tape. They are fixed with bitumen compounds. Each type of insulation is placed on vertical surfaces above the insulation and glued to the walls of the house.

1. Preparing the soil base.

Often individual houses build without floor slabs when they are not satisfied basements. In this case, preparation is carried out from crushed stone and sand in layers, with a layer height of within 10 cm. Moreover, each layer is moistened and compacted.

Then the area of ​​the room where you plan to install the water floor is filled concrete mixture. For reliability, you can lay reinforcement mesh.

The surface must be horizontal, for which a building level is used. Concrete is poured along lighthouse slats, which, in addition to maintaining horizontality, serve as expansion joints. According to building rules and regulations, horizontal differences of no more than 1 cm are allowed.

1. Insulation.

Thermal insulation is an important link in the system of such a floor. It should block access to heat from hot water pipes to the lower zone of the underground space - to the basement or ground, and, accordingly, vice versa, direct heat upward into the living space.

Attention! How profitable the heating will be depends on the correctly selected material to provide thermal insulation and its thickness.

The thickness of such an insulating layer is calculated based on:

• climate features;
• data on wall material;
• groundwater level – spruce floor slab is missing;
• volume of the room where the heated floor is installed.

The thickness of the insulating layer on which floor screed is carried out above a cold basement or soil foundation, according to the standards, should be from 50 mm. For floor slabs it may be less.

Expanded polystyrene, which is covered with foil on one side, is usually used as insulation. When using it, some inconvenience may arise, since the pipes must be secured using improvised means, for example, clips or clamps.

Today, the market offers a huge number of polystyrene foam boards, the installation of which is carried out with best quality and faster. Their design provides reliable fastening among themselves as a result locking devices. As a result, a strong, continuous and even base is created.

This material is covered with a vapor barrier in the form of a polystyrene film and is characterized by high density. Moreover, in the body of the slabs there are special channels into which heating pipes are laid.

When installing them, a tape measure or other measuring tools are not required, since there are linear markings on their edges. Thus, installation can be carried out much faster. Therefore, such slabs have enough advantages for you to choose them.

It is important to lay polystyrene foam boards over the floor area, and not just where underfloor heating pipes pass. This will be the key to the high strength of the concrete screed, as well as the reliability of the entire heating system.

Electric heated floor

It is easy to install. Ready-made mats are laid on the surface, and a minimal screed is applied on top. True, you can do without it.

A cheaper option is also available. A cable must be laid on a special substrate, which is secured, and a floor covering or screed on top.

Typically, heated floors represent only part of the overall heating system.

Installation of electric heated floors with your own hands: video, diagrams

We suggest you consider self-installation electric floor in a private house (it is done in the same way in an apartment). You need to make sure that the wiring installed in the house can cope with the loads from heating elements, and you have automatic switches of a certain power installed.

1. Thermal insulation.

Before installing a heated floor, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene foam, 20-50 mm thick. This is important if there is a cold room under the floor. Thermal insulation needs to be laid on a leveled base and for reliability it would be a good idea to lay it on a special glue.

1. Reinforcement.

Then you need to make a reinforced screed with a solution thickness of 10-20 mm. You can reinforce with either plastic or galvanized plaster mesh. Foil is placed on top of the screed to reflect infrared radiation from the heating elements.

1. Pouring the floor.

We begin installing the electric floor with our own hands and select the location of the heating cable, taking into account the arrangement of different furniture, making sure that the wires are located at a distance of up to 5 cm from the furniture. When laying the heating cable, you need to secure it to the lower base using polyurethane foam, after which they fill cement-sand screed or a ready-made mixture.

You can see various technological difficulties that arise during installation by studying the video of the work on installing an electric heated floor with your own hands, where they will be performed experienced craftsmen. Along with laying the cable in the thickness of the screed, a temperature control system sensor is also installed, a thermostat is installed (in one place), which allows you to regulate the floor temperature at your discretion.

Combined heating

Using combined heating in the house, you can get something like this: in some rooms, often in the bathroom, kitchen, corridors, heated floors are installed, and in the bedroom and living room there is water heating. But you can go the other way: the whole house will have water heating, and in several rooms (for example, which were completed later) - electric heating. The most profitable option is when the system has one coolant and one boiler.

After you install any of the above heating systems, you need to run the energy carrier into it and connect the boiler. To do this, we recommend inviting a specialist from the service center where the boiler was purchased. Its launch will go smoothly, and there will be no surprises from heating season You won’t have to wait, and next time you won’t need the services of such a specialist.

Water heating systems are most often used to heat private houses. They are characterized by simplicity, comparative cheapness and high efficiency. If you have direct hands and experience working with tools, nothing prevents you from creating a heating system yourself. With the help of our review, you will learn how to make water heating for a private house with your own hands, the diagrams of which we will provide as illustrative examples.

We will also tell you:

• About the main types of water heating systems;
• About the radiators and materials used;
• About coolant circulation systems;
• About methods of installing pipes and radiators;
• About the choice of heating boilers.

After reading the review, you will be able to draw the appropriate conclusions and create an effective water heating system for a private home with your own hands.

Types of water heating systems in a private house

There are several types of water heating for private homes. Here we mean standard systems heating using radiators, heated floors and baseboard heating. Individual types can be combined with each other, which allows achieving effective heating. For example, ordinary radiators are installed in bedrooms and living rooms, and heated floors are often installed in bathrooms and toilets - perfect solution for those who cannot stand the cold and do not like cold tiles. Let's look at the individual types of heating and their advantages.

Radiator

Radiator heating systems are timeless classics. The principle of their operation is to transfer heat from the coolant through radiators installed in the premises. Such heating systems are installed in the vast majority of buildings for various purposes - residential, industrial, administrative, utility and many others. They are relatively easy to install - just stretch the pipes and connect radiators to them.

Previously, water heating in a private house involved the installation of bulky cast-iron radiators. Over time, they were replaced by lighter and thinner steel radiators made of corrosion-resistant steel. Later, aluminum batteries were introduced - they are lightweight, cheap and durable. For a private home this is the most perfect option batteries

The main advantage of radiator systems is that they do not require pouring concrete screeds to install them. The entire installation comes down to installing the boiler and radiators with their subsequent connection. Radiators provide effective heating of rooms and do not interfere with interior design, especially if they are modern aluminum multi-section radiators.

Warm floor

Water floor heating in a private house can operate both in independent mode and in auxiliary mode. In independent mode, there is no need to lay pipes with radiators, and all the heat is emitted by the floors. Thanks to this, children can play on such floors without fear; they will not be blown or draughty. Do your feet constantly get cold? Then you will definitely like always warm floors. In auxiliary mode they work as a complement to radiator systems.

Underfloor heating systems are good in kitchens, bathrooms and toilets, where the floor most often has perpetually cold tiles. Installing heating will help make the floors warm and comfortable. For example, in the bathroom you no longer have to stand barefoot on cold tiles. The same applies to the toilet. If you have a tiled floor in your kitchen, feel free to install heated floor systems here too. Another place where a warm floor will become an attribute of comfort is the bedroom - you must admit, it’s not very pleasant to get out from under warm blanket and place your heels on the cold floors.

Warm floors are characterized by a low coolant temperature, not exceeding +55 degrees, which makes it possible to create economical heating systems. But the need to make concrete screeds and go through walls and door frames is a significant disadvantage. It is best to consider the need to install the system at the stage of building a house.

Skirting

Modern heating systems, built on the basis of classic aluminum radiators, are distinguished by the fact that the heat from them spreads only upward - due to natural convection. As a result, the entire warm air rises and cold air takes its place. It is not surprising that household members’ feet begin to freeze. The only advantage is the absence of cold from the windows, as it is carried away by convection to the ceiling. But what to do with heating? Shouldn't we lower the radiators to the very floor?

The way out of the situation is skirting systems heating. Small-sized radiators made of brass or aluminum are used here. The coolant is supplied using small diameter plastic pipes. The system is complemented by taps, air vents and other necessary accessories.

All this is laid in a special plastic plinth - the air entering here is heated and heats the walls above. Next, the room is warmed up infrared radiation from heated walls and floors. There are no drafts blowing across the floor in heated rooms. Here, not only the walls are heated, but also the floors themselves, making the rooms warm and comfortable.

The advantage of baseboard heating is that it can be installed at any stage, even after construction is completed. Disadvantages are the high cost of installation and a lot of requirements for the placement of skirting boards and other elements. Simultaneous installation of all types of the described systems is also allowed.

Water heating systems in private houses

We have already discussed the main types of water heating. Based on the advantages and disadvantages of the described systems, we can conclude that the most optimal is to install radiator systems and heated floors (as an addition to the bathroom, toilet or kitchen). Now we need to talk about installation and connection diagrams. First, we will look at the advantages and disadvantages of heating systems with natural and forced circulation.

Natural circulation systems

When designing and installing heating with natural water circulation, do not forget about the slope of the pipes, this is the main thing.

The use of heating systems with natural circulation is justified only when it is necessary to heat a private house small size. The coolant in such systems moves due to gravitational forces and the laws of physics, according to which the heated medium always moves upward. Once in the heating boiler, the water heats up and rises, from where it goes down the pipe to the farthest radiator. Branches to the remaining radiators are also made here. Having cooled, the water goes down the return pipe and goes down to the boiler.

note that installation of heating systems with natural circulation requires the creation of a slope– due to this, the flow of coolant is facilitated. The maximum length of the horizontal section should not exceed 30 meters (this means the distance from the boiler to the last radiator).

The advantages of systems with natural coolant circulation are low cost, no need to purchase additional equipment, and almost complete noiselessness. As disadvantages, we highlight the need to create as straight a route as possible (the coolant pressure in the pipes is very low), the need to purchase large-diameter pipes and the limited size of the entire heating system.

Forced circulation systems

Two-pipe systems are more advanced. In them, a solid pipe is laid to the farthest radiator, from which branches are made to the intermediate radiators. After passing through the radiators, the coolant is sent into the return pipe. This scheme allows for uniform heating of all rooms, and its main disadvantage is the increased complexity of installation.

Boiler options for a private home

How to choose a water boiler for heating a private house? Boilers are single-circuit and double-circuit, wall-mounted and floor-mounted. They also differ in the type of fuel: liquid, gas, electric and solid fuel. Which one is better?

A wood stove for heating looks very attractive, but requires attention to maintain the temperature in the house.

Stoves for water heating in a private house without gasification are rarely used - those who want to give exclusivity to their home pay attention to them. As a result, solid stoves are born, built on the principle of a fireplace and using solid fuel. To maintain a certain temperature in the rooms, household members will have to constantly add firewood to the firebox, but this also has its own charm - you can enjoy a romantic evening in front of the crackling firewood.

As for factory solid fuel boilers, they can operate on wood, coal, coke and briquetted fuel. Also on sale are boilers with automatic fuel supply from a small bunker. Solid fuel models are the most economical option for heating country houses not connected to gas mains.

In non-gasified houses, electric and liquid boilers are often installed. In the first case, consumers will simply face enormous energy costs, and in the second case, they will be haunted by the eternal aroma of diesel or heating oil. But burning liquid fuel is still more profitable than using electric boilers.

Homemade boilers for water heating of a private house are used much less frequently. They run on solid fuel or electricity, and their homemade design often raises concerns about their reliability. It is still better to use factory equipment, proven and tested.

Floor standing boilers can be used both in systems with forced water circulation and natural ones. Wall-mounted ones are used only in systems with forced circulation.

Floor-mounted and wall-mounted boilers are used to heat gasified houses. Floor-standing boilers are designed for use in systems with natural circulation and in systems with forced circulation with external circulation pumps. They are cheap, but cannot boast of good efficiency - most often they heat the “atmosphere”.

As for wall-mounted boilers, they are designed for use in water heating systems with forced circulation. Such boilers are often manufactured using a double-circuit design, allowing not only to heat rooms, but also to prepare hot water. Their design already includes a built-in piping - there is an expansion tank and a circulation pump.

Wall-mounted boilers have high efficiency, reaching 96%. Boilers built using a condensing design are even more efficient.

For use in gasified houses, we recommend using wall-mounted boilers, or opting for a combination with a floor-standing boiler in conjunction with an indirect heating boiler (the most economical and reliable option). For heating houses without gas the best option solid fuel and liquid fuel boilers will become available. It is also possible to create heating systems with boilers powered by liquefied gas.