Starting to finish the walls with wallpaper, tiles, paint and varnish materials and other types decorative covering in an apartment or house, you must first remove all the unevenness and remove the flaws. Because even small defects can subsequently lead to noticeable damage to the finish. The result is deterioration appearance walls, and eventually refurbishment. If you approach decorating the walls of a room wisely, then first you should do some work to level the surface.

Depending on the humidity level, the type of room, defects and many other features, you can level the walls with your own hands in various ways:

• plastering;
• plastering the wall;
• surface finishing with plasterboard.

Let's look at each method in more detail.

Leveling the wall with putty

Thanks to this finishing option, minor defects in the wall surface can be eliminated. This type is ideal before painting, before wallpapering, to hide visible defects.

Before you independently level this surface in an apartment or in other rooms, you must first treat the walls with a primer and only then begin puttying. This type Suitable for minor surface differences.

Tools for wall putty:

• wide spatula;
• narrow spatula;
• flat bottom cuvette;
• container for mixing the solution;
• level;
• a stick (ideally an attachment to a drill) for stirring the solution.

The mixture must be mixed until a cone is formed that retains its shape. The finished putty thickens quickly, so there is no need to apply the solution in large quantities. If thickening has already occurred, it can be diluted to the required state with water or a primer.

Putty application technology

The required amount of the mixture is placed in a cuvette, and the rest is covered to prevent it from drying out quickly. The puttying process should begin from the floor to the ceiling, applying a small amount of solution using a spatula. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture to a large one and apply the latter to the wall at an acute angle. Then, to a thickness of 1-2 mm, we begin to level the surface with vertical and horizontal strokes, applying a level from time to time.

Undoubtedly, the wider the spatula, the smoother the surface of the wall will be, but, unfortunately, it will be more difficult to hold it.

After the solution has hardened on the wall surface, it is necessary to remove various irregularities by washing with a primer. Then, after washing, wait until it dries completely (usually at least a day) and then you can start sanding to remove roughness. If necessary, you can apply a second layer of putty to the wall, having first primed it (if this is not done, the surface may crack). It is very important to know that under no circumstances should drafts be allowed in the room until the putty has completely dried, i.e., at least three days. Leveling walls using the method discussed above is possible in various rooms, both in living rooms (kitchen, bathrooms, etc.) and in technical rooms.

Plastering walls

To level the walls yourself using this method, you need to know that the work is quite labor-intensive, but at the same time the walls look neat and aesthetically pleasing.

If this is the first time you have to work with plaster yourself, then it is better to first try it on a small section of the wall in order to understand the principle of operation and “get your hands on it.”

The plastering method is carried out not only in a private house, but is also used a lot in an apartment, because uneven surfaces are quite common there.

The following materials are needed:

• guide rails;
• level;
• drill for mixing the solution with a special nozzle;
• deep penetration primer;
• roller for priming the wall;
• tray;
• container for administering the solution.

Padding

First, you should prepare the wall by cleaning it from dust and dirt, removing crumbling elements. Then prime this surface.

The soil mixture helps prepare the wall covering, removes dust and moisturizes it, reduces porosity, prevents the appearance of fungi and mold, and, importantly, enhances the adhesion of the plaster.

The primer is applied using a roller, if there are irregularities in the wall and the recesses must be coated manually with a brush.

After the properly prepared surface has dried, you can begin installing the beacons.

Installation of guide rails (beacons)

When plastering the surface, special beacons are first placed. These are metal guides, they help to perfectly align the wall.

For beacons you can use not only metal materials, but also wooden slats, plywood, etc.

But unfortunately, by saving on the profile and leveling the wall, not everyone will be able to make it perfectly level, especially if there is no experience in plastering walls. A T-shaped beacon profile would be ideal for this. It is lightweight and durable, securely attached to surfaces.

Beacons should be attached to the wall with plaster mortar in several places and leveled at once before the mortar hardens. The distance between the guides should be 1-1.5 m, but from the corner of the room it should not be more than 30 cm.

Methods for attaching beacons:

• plaster. It is better to lay it in a layer with a thickness of 15 to 30 mm, therefore, the beacons should be placed taking into account these dimensions. If you apply a thicker layer, then the plaster may slide off the wall or simply fall off. When using this method, you need to let it dry for about 4 to 5 hours;
• using Ushastik devices and self-tapping screws. The distance between slats is usually 1-1.5 m.

Let's start the main work - plastering

The pre-primed wall must be slightly moistened to improve the adhesion of the plaster. Now you should spread the solution onto the surface of the wall in a layer, protruding from 3 to 4 mm beyond the guides, trying to completely fill the recesses in the wall.

After application, it is better to level it immediately, without waiting for the solution applied to the wall to dry. It is convenient to do the alignment by starting from the bottom and moving up and to the side, pressing down a little. If there is not enough plaster on the wall, you need to add it to achieve a smooth surface.

This wall takes up to 12 days to dry. And only after this time can final decoration be done using modern materials.

Features of plastering depending on the surface

Huge role in quality implementation These works play into the material from which the wall is made:

• if the wall is brick, then it will require a mortar with a cement base or, if the room is with high humidity, then you need to stop choosing a mixture with the addition of lime. If the walls are made of facing bricks, then a problem arises - the smooth surface of the brick requires additional reinforcement of the wall with a special mesh so that the plaster does not slip. And already carry out work on such a wall, but this process will be difficult, so if you have little experience, then you should contact specialists or simply choose a different alignment method;
• If concrete surface walls. If it is smooth, it must be treated with a specialized soil mixture with quartz inclusions. This will help give the wall a rough look. To improve adhesion, it is worth adding gypsum powder to the cement solution for this surface. Lime-gypsum mixtures are also suitable;
• foam concrete walls. Gypsum and cement mortars are suitable for this surface. The primer must be used with deep penetration.

Leveling the walls in an apartment with your own hands using the method discussed above is a rather “dirty” and labor-intensive process that not everyone can do the first time.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall finishing

This method is excellent for leveling when there are large differences in the wall surface; the installation itself is not labor-intensive. Doing it yourself is not at all difficult and, undoubtedly, its main advantage is that you can immediately begin decorating the wall immediately after covering it.

There are two methods of attaching drywall to the surface:

• installation on a frame;
• installation on adhesive composition straight to the wall.

Frame method

The main disadvantage of this method is that it reduces the area of ​​the room by approximately 5 cm. But this method is quite reliable.

To install plasterboard sheets, the installation of a durable frame is most often used. It is made from galvanized profile.

Types of metal profiles:

• guide – PN (U-shaped)
• rack-mount - PS.

Straight U-shaped hangers are also additionally needed; it is better to fix them using dowel-nails in increments of 40 to 50 cm. They are necessary for more reliable fastening of the rack profile.

Required tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• metal scissors;
• level;
• roulette;
• knife for cutting drywall;
• dowel-nails;
• self-tapping screws

Leveling the wall with plasterboard sheets is carried out using additional markings. This is enough important stage. Because according to this marking the frame will be attached. The standard width of drywall is 120 cm, so the distance between the posts must be 60 cm. Thus, the edges of the drywall will be in the middle metal profile and it will eventually fit on 3 racks. The height of the profile must match the height of the room.

A guide profile must be attached along the entire perimeter of the wall, taking into account that the length to the edge is at least 3.5 cm.

The profile is mounted according to the markings made.

Profile installation steps:

• a guide profile is installed on the dowel-nails, holes are made with a hammer drill directly through the profile;
• attach the rack profile, inserting it into the guide, adjusting it according to the markings made, fastening it with self-tapping screws;
• in increments of no more than 80 cm, install direct hangers and attach the racks to the hangers with self-tapping screws. It is important that the racks are vertical, without bending.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the existing frame using self-tapping screws, in increments of about 25 cm. The standard height of plasterboard is 2.5 m and in higher rooms it is necessary to sew additionally, and in addition a horizontal profile should be added to the frame between the racks. Additional sheets of drywall should be installed in a checkerboard pattern.

When sheathing a wall, you need to leave room for a gap of 5 mm between the sheets.

Seam sealing steps:

• thorough priming of seams;
• using self-adhesive sickle tape to seal the seams;
• Putty the joints, then sand them.

Installation of plasterboard sheets with adhesive composition

To begin with, it is better to carefully remove the old wall finish, then you should use putty to repair the unevenness and defects of the wall. After preliminary preparation of the surface, it must be primed.

The next step will be preparing the plasterboard sheets for applying glue. First you need to cut the sheets for pasting, taking into account that there should be gaps of about 5 cm at the top and bottom.

You need to drill holes on the wall for dowel nails. They will additionally support the drywall on the wall until the adhesive has completely dried.

The glue is prepared from a special mixture and water. It dries almost immediately, so it should be prepared in small batches.

When everything is ready, glue should be applied to reverse side drywall. It is applied in longitudinal stripes along the edge and in heaps every 25-30 cm along the rest of the surface. Then, without leveling the glue, we apply the sheet to the wall, pressing it evenly.

At the final stage, gluing drywall is required, as in frame method- sealing seams. Finishing the surface in this way is quite simple, almost anyone can do it.

It is important to know that in order to level the walls of rooms with high humidity (for example, in the kitchen), you need to use moisture-resistant plasterboard near water supply lines.

Thus, having learned how to level the walls with your own hands, you can do high-quality repairs in the kitchen or other rooms.

Exist various ways leveling the walls, for which plaster, putty or sheets of drywall can be used. The choice of one method or another depends on a number of factors, for example, operating conditions of the premises, humidity, size, nature of irregularities, etc. So, plastering the bases is classic way leveling, and it is suitable for both living rooms and office premises.

Sheets of plasterboard are usually used to level walls if their unevenness is very large, and ordinary plastering work will entail unreasonable costs. In addition, further cladding of such walls can be done immediately after the installation of drywall; it is not for nothing that this method is called “dry” plastering.

Puttying the walls is already a finishing touch, through which the smallest irregularities in the base are eliminated. It is necessary only before painting the walls or when various surface defects are very noticeable.

Plastering walls

To carry out work on leveling walls using plaster you will need:

• beacons (guide rails), rule and laser or water level;
• plaster mixture, spatula and trowel;
• a drill with a stirring attachment and a container for the solution;
• deep penetration primer, as well as a roller and tray for priming.

Before starting work on plastering the walls, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt. It is necessary to knock off all fragile elements from the wall that easily crumble even with a slight impact. After this, the surface must be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Priming allows you to:

1. Moisten and remove dust from the base;
2. Limit the absorbency of the wall material;
3. Strengthen adhesion to the plaster, giving the base some roughness and increasing the area of ​​contact between the materials.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller or spray, but the recesses must be carefully coated with a brush. After the primer has dried, they begin to install the beacons.

Installation of guide rails - beacons

In order to plaster the base, you first need to set the guide beacons strictly according to the level. The latter are special metal guides, with the help of which the level for laying the plaster layer is set, ensuring ideal evenness of its application.

Of course, other, cheaper and more accessible materials can be used as beacons - wooden slats, pieces of plywood, etc., which, in fact, until recently was practiced almost everywhere.

But, of course, this technology will not provide the proper quality of wall alignment, especially if you do not have much experience in carrying out this type of work.

Therefore, we recommend that you immediately purchase a special T-shaped beacon profile - lightweight, securely attached to the wall and strong enough so that later, when leveling the plaster layer, it does not sag under the rule.

It is better if it is made of aluminum, since later the profile will not need to be removed - it is not subject to corrosion.

Beacons are attached to the base in most cases with the same plaster mortar at several points, after which they are leveled until the mixture hardens. However, in some cases it is necessary to secure the structure more thoroughly, for which the guide rails are fixed using Ushastik adjustment and holding devices and self-tapping screws, again using a laser or water level. The distance between the guides is usually taken to be 1-1.5 meters, and it should not exceed 30 cm from the corner of the room.

Option for fixing profiles to mortar

Plaster is usually laid in a layer 15-30 mm thick, so beacons should be placed taking these dimensions into account. If the layer of the thrown mixture is thicker than 30 mm, then the plaster will simply slide off the surface or fall off in whole pieces.

Many people would like to see their home beautiful and cozy. Smooth walls are the key to success! Let's look at how to correctly level the walls with your own hands. We will separately consider the algorithm for leveling with plasterboard, and separately with plaster.

There is no sadder story in the world than the story of an apartment, the walls of which, with their bizarre curves, are more reminiscent of a rippling sea... Surely many of you have seen something similar in life: in Soviet time delivery of objects was not always carried out in accordance with all standards, and therefore plasterers had the widest opportunities for self-expression.

Jokes aside, but often there is absolutely no desire to look at such art. We need to level the long-suffering walls!

What to choose: plaster or drywall?

Surely even a person far from “construction” knows that there are two main ways to improve crooked walls: plaster and drywall. How to choose the method that is suitable for your case?

Making a choice is not that difficult. First, the degree of curvature of the walls should be established. To do this, you should use the so-called sagging. Approximately at the ceiling level, retreating to a distance of about 30-40 centimeters from the corner, drive in a nail. It should protrude by about 25-30 millimeters. A plumb line (thread or twine) is attached to it, which is again attached to a nail at the bottom of the wall.

In both cases, the cord must be attached strictly behind the nail head to avoid errors when measuring curvature. Measure the indicators in three or four places (distance from the wall to the cord). The greater the difference in numbers, the more plaster will be used and the more expensive it will be to level the wall with its help. However, you should not be guided only by this. Let's look at the main pros and cons of each technology.

If the walls are so crooked that the waves are easy to notice without resorting to hanging, all the more reason to use drywall.

Advantages and disadvantages of plaster

Benefits of plaster

• Firstly, it is very durable. If everything is done “according to the mind”, then oh major renovation You can forget the walls with a light heart for about thirty years.
• Secondly, a well-plastered wall does not impose any restrictions on hanging furniture; it is durable and reliable. There are no cavities left under the plaster, and therefore you are not in danger of a sudden invasion of mice or the formation of a mold plantation.

Disadvantages of plaster

• The work is “wet”; mechanical processing of the walls is often required. As a result, there is a lot of waste, which in the case of the ninth floor (and the absence of a freight elevator) is extremely undesirable.
• The work takes a lot of time and requires certain skills.
• As we have already said, a very uneven wall will require a large volume of plaster mixture. Considering that they are not at all cheap these days, such repairs may become unaffordable for a limited budget.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

Benefits of drywall

• The work is “dry” and is done very quickly. If the process is organized correctly, minimal waste is generated.
• With the help of drywall, you can bring to mind, without spending your annual salary, even such a wall, the degree of curvature of which exceeds 30 degrees.
• If you would like to see exquisite shapes wall niches, you dream about LED backlight and other “delights”, then drywall is definitely your choice.
• Finally, using sound insulation and thermal insulation (the same basalt wool, for example), you can significantly increase the comfort of your home.

Disadvantages of drywall

• Firstly, with large “dungeons” the possibility of hanging furniture becomes very doubtful, and you will probably have to forget about heavy pictures in frames.
• Mice love to live behind drywall (in rural conditions), and if the wall is wet, then the formation of mold and mildew colonies is possible.
• When using this method, the internal volume of the room suffers.

So what should you choose?

So. If you are interested in quick repair, you want to make your home more beautiful with wall niches, or you need to hide a bunch of wires and other communications, then drywall becomes excellent choice. The same applies to situations where the walls are very crooked (it is far from a fact that the plaster will stick to them at all), additional insulation and/or soundproofing of the room is required.

It is better to improve truly “terrible” walls with plasterboard: less labor costs, and more profitable from a financial point of view.

Plaster is the choice of those who are not afraid of large amounts of construction waste, long duration of work, their relative labor intensity and considerable cost (especially in the case of hiring professional workers). A bonus is the exceptional durability of the coating; you can even hang it on such walls. storage boiler, not to mention the furniture. In addition, plaster does not “eat up” the internal volume (however, this still depends on the characteristics of the walls), and modern mixtures allow you to create a very interesting texture.

We hope that you were able to decide on the method. Now we will look at the stages of work and the required materials.

How to level walls with plaster using beacons in 3 stages?

What is required for plastering walls?

First, let's list the main tools:

• You can’t do without a hammer drill, which will please the ears of your neighbors.
• You need a mixer (in extreme cases, a drill attachment will also work).
• Spatula, trowel and grater, where would we be without them?
• Plumb.
• Hammer and trojan (steel chisel).
• Beacons (wooden or metal slats).
• Rules (emphasis on penultimate syllable). Needed for leveling a layer of plaster on the wall.
• Plaster and metal mesh (if the curvature of the wall exceeds 20-30 mm).

Finally, you will need a ready-made plaster mixture, or the required amount of cement and sand if you do it yourself. You also can’t do without a primer.

Stage 1: Preparing the walls for work

In order for the solution to “cling” to the surface better, it is necessary to deepen the seams on the masonry (if we are talking about brick wall) by approximately 10 mm. Some craftsmen advise leaving “sags” on the masonry, but they often get in the way. In a word, it is better to chop them off. If you are planning to plaster concrete wall, then it is advisable to make notches on its surface. Their length is at least 150 mm, depth is about 3 mm. The tools used for this type of work are a regular hammer and a Trojan. Experts advise making at least 200 cuts for each square meter surfaces. The wall is then thoroughly cleaned with a steel brush and lightly sprayed with water.

It is advisable to knock down all large influxes. Cracks and chips should be repaired with putty. If a thick layer of plaster is required, pre-fill the wall with metal mesh. Attach it to dowels (step approximately 20 cm). Plastic spacers are placed between the wall and the mesh, focusing on the results of the hanging (to achieve ideal straightness). The worst thing is when you have to cook wooden wall. First, the boards are slightly pricked to avoid their deformation. Next, shingles or the same metal mesh are stuffed onto the wall. Please note that it is secured by first laying wooden or plastic spacers.

After this, the walls are carefully primed using deep penetration compounds. Concrete lintels are treated with special solutions (Betokontakt, for example), and then covered with plaster mesh. Before the actual start of work, the floors are swept of debris and plastic film, paper or other similar material is laid on them, so that later you do not have to work hard scraping off the frozen plaster.

Stage 2: Preparation of the solution

It is important to remember that the result of all your work largely depends on the correct preparation of the solution, so we advise you to take this stage of work as seriously as possible.

Firstly, all materials used (except ready-made mixtures) sieved through sieves with cells no larger than 3x3 mm (maximum 5x5 mm). All lumps, impurities and debris must be removed! To mix the composition, you need to use a container of suitable volume so that the mixture does not splash out. Using a mixer, bring it to a completely homogeneous state, and then take it out and look: if plaster mortar drips off immediately, add more binder. If it is too sticky, add more filler and add water.

Preparation of cement-sand mortar

Pour dry sand and cement into the container and mix thoroughly. Gradually add water and stir until a creamy mixture forms. If you need a fast-setting solution, add a little PVA glue. To slow down the hardening, you can use any liquid dishwashing detergent.

Cement-lime mortar

The lime is placed in a plastic container (!), water is added so that the liquid covers the layer of lime. Cover the mixture with a lid and wait for the reaction to complete (carefully!). After straining the resulting substance through cheesecloth, let it sit for a day. Prepare a mixture of cement and sand (referring to the table), and use prepared lime mortar for dilution.

Mortar

As in the previous case, you will first have to extinguish the lime with water. After adding a little sand, begin to actively rub the mixture, getting rid of lumps. Gradually add the remaining sand, continuing to stir continuously. Add water if necessary. Important! Lime mortar can only be used on the day of production!

As for ready-made mixtures (in powder), they should be diluted strictly following the instructions!

Stage 3: Plastering the walls

Having dealt with the preliminary preparation, let's talk about the progress of the plastering itself. After the walls have been coated with primer, beacons are attached to the plaster mortar. Of course, this needs to be done plumb, checking the correct installation with a level. Then “skis” are applied to the beacons. This is the name given to the guide strips made from the plaster mixture you use.

How to set the distance between beacons? It all depends on the width of the rules you use, but there are a couple of general tips. Firstly, the step between them should be slightly less than the width of the rule. Secondly, at home you should not use rules larger than one and a half meters, since working with them is simply difficult.

If the wall is very crooked, first attach a metal mesh. This is done with the help of dowels, maintaining a distance between them of 15-20 cm. Do not forget about the gaskets (see above). Apply the first layer of plaster to the mesh. Laying is carried out using a trowel. The layer is leveled using the rule. After this, we wait until the first layer is completely dry, and then we repeat the process, laying the final coating.

In cases where mesh is not required, the plaster is also laid in two layers. The first is light “slaps” with a slightly uneven surface. After they have dried, lay the second layer and level it with the rule. To finally level the wall, use a grater for the second layer (until it dries). It is pressed tightly against the wall, and, making circular movements, we smooth out all the defects found. If there is such a need, you can apply a third layer.

Features of the cement-sand mixture

In this case, it is necessary to use a mounting grid, which is attached to the wall with the same dowels. The first layer is simply “rubbed in” using a grater. After it is completely dry, “skis” are rubbed on it. The second layer is applied using a trowel. Attention! This is a very complex and tedious process, so be mentally prepared for it in advance. Having completely covered the wall surface with plaster, carefully level it using the rule.

To see all this “live”, we suggest watching the thematic video.

Leveling walls with plasterboard yourself

Having dealt with plastering work, let's move on to using drywall. First, let's list the tools we need:

• Metal profiles or wooden beam.
• Self-tapping screws for wood or metal.
• Screwdriver or drill.
• Level, plumb and square.
• Construction knife.

Don't forget about little things like a hammer, jigsaw, tape measure or measuring tape.

Stage 1: Preparing the walls

As in the previous case, it will not be possible to do without preliminary work. First you need to carefully remove all the old coating. This is especially true for falling off plaster. Keep in mind that drywall itself will “eat up” a lot of interior space, so you should take advantage of any opportunity to reduce the “dead” volume! Wall priming is optional. But it is highly advisable to cover it with antiseptic agents. You remember what we talked about mold? Don’t forget to mark the line on the ceiling and floor along which the border of the new “wall” will run.

Stage 2: Installation of the frame

Wood or metal?

It is not so rare to come across the opinion that wooden beams are perfect for leveling walls with plasterboard. In principle, this statement is true, but not in all cases. It should be remembered that wood is an extremely unstable material. If there is high humidity in the room (bathroom or kitchen), then the use of timber is contraindicated. No matter how carefully the finishing is carried out, moisture will gradually penetrate into the wood, causing it to swell and deform.

In the most unpleasant cases, the wall may well “lead”, and all your work will go down the drain. So if you need maximum reliability, we strongly recommend using a metal profile.

Frame installation

This is the most important part of the job! If you do it carelessly, nothing good will come of it. We take measurements of the height of the walls. Installation begins with fixing the frame to the ceiling and floor, using a UD profile (guide base), securing it with dowels. The step depends on the size of the room, but you should not make it more than 30-40 cm.

When the “frame” is ready, take the CD profile onto which the drywall is directly attached. Important! The edge goes to the wall, the wide part goes into the room! It is very important not to get confused. The profile is fastened with self-tapping screws. It is very important to use ones that are specifically designed for metal. We place the first transverse profile close to the wall. The pitch is exactly 600 mm. Important! The distance should be measured not from the edges of the profile, but from the middle. The fact is that the standard width of one sheet of drywall is 1200 mm, and therefore with this method you will definitely hit the center and edges of the sheet when attaching it to the frame. Of course, it is also necessary to secure one cross member at the edge of the opposite wall, even if it is not possible to maintain a distance of 600 mm.

To make the frame as reliable as possible, perforated hangers should be used. These are ordinary strips of galvanized steel. There is a stiffening rib in the center, and the edges are perforated. They need to be bent in the shape of the letter “P”, attaching the middle to the wall. Important! Such hangers need to be screwed under each (!) vertical profile. Perforated “ears” are attached to the profile itself. If standard height If a sheet of plasterboard (2500 mm) is less than the height of the walls, then the inserts are attached only from the top or bottom. The jumpers between the UD posts are made from the same CD profile.

Stage 3: Mounting drywall sheets

The hardest part is behind us. The sheets are attached to the finished frame with ordinary black 35 mm self-tapping screws. Use a screwdriver to carefully screw them in flush. The sheet must be fastened in increments of 15 cm around the perimeter, screwing in self-tapping screws in the central part if necessary (at least 4-5 per sheet). Many manufacturers produce lined drywall, so you don’t have to run around with a ruler.

To fill the openings formed in difficult places, cut out pieces of drywall that match their shape. The easiest way is to use a construction knife for this purpose. Remember that cuts need to be made along (!) the sheet. After this, the GVL is broken and the layer of paper on the opposite part is carefully cut. Basically, that's all. Now you can start finishing. In the case of drywall, there are two types - painting and wallpapering. You can probably figure this out on your own, but you need to talk about putty in more detail.

The final touch: wall putty

Plasterboard putty for painting

It is very important to check all the screws first. They should be screwed no deeper than 5 mm from the surface of the sheet. If this is not the case, then unscrew the self-tapping screw to the required depth, and then attach another one nearby. In places where solid sheets were joined with cut pieces, you need to slightly widen the seams. This is done for better adhesion of the composition. Before filling, it is extremely important that the surface of the drywall is properly primed!

It is very important to use exactly those primer compositions, which are specifically designed for processing gypsum fiber board sheets. After work you need to wait at least 12 hours.

We begin to putty the seams. Ideal for downtime gypsum plaster. It is very important not to skimp on it, since there are often cases when low-quality compounds fall off in pieces a couple of weeks after application. It is spread onto the surface of the sheets using a spatula, making sure that the seams are filled flush with the surface. The seam is immediately covered with sickle tape, and then another layer of plaster is applied. It is important to move the spatula so that it is gently pressed into the seam.

We check the correct application by placing a wide spatula across the seam: if there are no gaps, then you did everything correctly. We seal the holes from the screws as carefully as possible. We wait a day, and then we grind the surface with a zero polish. We prime the wall again.

Complete surface filling

This stage is the most difficult. You will have to apply several layers, each of which needs to be dried thoroughly. It is very important to use the same putty as in the previous step, as this will ensure that there are no cracks. At least three layers should be done. The final coating is dried for 24 hours and then sanded very efficiently. To do this, use a block on which a sanding mesh is pulled. You can also use sandpaper, but you will have to constantly change it.

After completion of the work, a visual inspection is carried out to look for remaining defects. If there are any, remove them using the same putty. The walls are primed again. And only after this layer of primer has dried, the surface is completely ready to apply paint.

Plasterboard putty under wallpaper

Let us immediately warn you that it is not necessary to putty the entire wall, since this operation has a rather weak effect on the quality of the repair itself. But! If the wallpaper is thin, then technical inscriptions on the gypsum fiber board sheet can be visible through it. But the main reason why it is better to putty plasterboard under wallpaper is somewhat different. The thing is that sooner or later you will have to change the wallpaper. If GVL sheets were not puttied, you will tear off the old coating not only with pieces of the paper “sheathing” of the drywall, but even with pieces of the plaster itself.

After you have coated the wall with primer (according to the method described above), covered the seams and screw heads with putty, it is primed again. Important! At the second stage, two or three layers of putty are applied, each of which (after drying) is again primed. The final layer is dried, sanded and coated again with primer. The thoroughness of sanding is inversely proportional to the thickness and texture of the wallpaper used: the thicker it is, the less time can be spent on sanding.

To get a better idea of ​​the work, watch the video.

Perfect smooth walls in an apartment - a mandatory norm for everyone who started renovations.

Leveling sequence

When leveling surfaces, it is important to follow the order of work.

• First of all, the floor is leveled and beacons for walls, etc. are installed accordingly.
• Then, after laying hidden communications, crude leveling work is carried out (for example, on walls) and...
• move on to the dry ones - the ceiling lining.

Why do you need to level the walls?

Uneven surfaces in the apartment cannot be ignored for at least two reasons. Any finish fits well and creates comfort and coziness in the room only on a flat basis.

If the main surface is flawed, then during operation decorative finishing It can very quickly lose its appearance, and you will have to take on repairs again. The walls occupy the largest part of the room and are always visible, so they must be perfectly smooth.

2 ways to level walls - plaster or paneling

Depending on the materials used, there are two methods of leveling surfaces - wet (using building mixtures) and dry (installation of various structures).

Each of these methods is equally effective if all stages of work are followed, but has its own characteristics. As a rule, leveling with plaster is used for differences of 30-50 mm.

If desired, you can use building mixtures for walls with greater curvature, but this will require large investments in material and work. Therefore, it is better to give preference to installing the frame and then covering it with plasterboard.

Small cracks and unevenness can hide cozy wallpaper with a corrugated pattern, but leveling the walls is necessary.

Pay attention to aligning the corners. Curvature, invisible to the naked eye, will be visible when installing skirting boards and gluing borders.

We use mixtures to level the walls

Advantages and disadvantages

• Does not take up useful area of ​​the apartment
• Requires preliminary surface cleaning
• Quite a labor-intensive process, leaving a lot of dust and debris

Before you begin leveling, you need to measure the surface unevenness. For the horizontal, use a cord stretched along the wall or a building level with a length of at least 1.5 m. The vertical is checked using a plumb line. If after measurement differences within 3-5 cm are detected, the most effective method- apply construction mixtures. Their use is preceded by stage-by-stage work.

Dry wall leveling

Advantages and disadvantages

• Sheathing with plasterboard does not require pre-cleaning of the walls
• Inside the frame you can hide communications, as well as lay heat and sound insulating materials
• “Eats up” the usable area of ​​the apartment

Walls covered with plasterboard can withstand less load compared to plastered walls. brick wall. Moisture-resistant sheets are finished with green cardboard, while regular sheets are finished with cardboard gray. For finishing wet rooms, choose gypsum board sheets.

Traditionally, 12.5 mm thick sheets of plasterboard are used for dry leveling of walls. But to install them, you must first build a frame.

Walls are leveled using gypsum or cement mortar only for small (up to 4-5 cm) height differences. In other cases it is better to use more cheap drywall.

Surface preparation

Poorly secured layers of old plaster will fall off over time, and repairs will have to start all over again. Therefore, you should tap the walls with a hammer and remove all crumbling layers. Plaster that easily comes away from the wall is removed with a spatula. Problem areas are treated with a grinder or cleaned with a hammer and chisel.

Removing old plaster

Using a grinder or a hammer drill, it is better to clean off too large deposits. If you leave them, you will have to apply too much large layer plaster to level the wall to their level. The cracks must be widened using a hammer and chisel so that the solution can be laid in them.

The cracks in the wall are widened

Sand and crumbling fine plaster are cleaned off with a brush with metal teeth. If left, the solution will not adhere well to the wall and may also crumble over time.

Cleaning the wall with a brush

Materials and tools

deep penetration primer;
construction mixture ( cement mortar or gypsum-based putty);
finishing putty;
plumb lines (threads with a small weight attached to them);
construction falcon for carrying mortar;
trowel for laying plaster;
wide spatula;
rule: a tool for leveling the solution in the form of a 1-3-meter strip of metal;
corner spatula;
grater for smoothing out unevenness;
ladder.

Wall Leveling Tools

Using Plumb Lines

To estimate the degree of surface curvature, it is better to use plumb lines. To do this, take a small weight (for example, a nut) and attach a long thread to it. Such a plumb line is suspended from the ceiling at a minimum distance from the wall so that the load is a couple of centimeters from the floor.
The thread with the load should only slightly touch the wall. If necessary, the ceiling mount can be moved a little closer to the wall or a little further from it. The lower part of the plumb line is attached to a nail driven into the floor. Several of these plumb lines placed along the wall will serve as an ideal guide.

Alignment of walls

1. Before starting work, the surface is treated primer. Deep penetration compositions allow you to bind the loose upper layers of the wall, prevent moisture from the solution from being absorbed into the surface and significantly increase the degree of its adhesion to the surface.

Deep penetration primer

2. To equalize large differences use beacons– guides, made in the form of a perforated strip of metal or plastic, attached to the wall using mortar and used to control the leveling of the surface.

3. To place beacons on the wall, draw a horizontal line onto which slats of mortar are applied (“ stamps"). Next, the beacon is pressed into them. The height of the stamps is verified building level.

Beacon placement

4. After the “marks” have completely dried, plaster is laid out between the beacons and spread over the wall using rules– a tool for leveling large layers of mortar.

Important. The distance to the second beacon should be equal to the width rules.

Alignment by rule based on two adjacent beacons

Appearance of the wall when aligned with beacons

5. If the degree of curvature of the walls is high, you should not immediately apply too large a layer of mortar, otherwise it will crack when drying.

Applying part of the solution

Advice. When the total thickness of the layer is more than 2 cm, use it to strengthen it and protect it from cracking. serpyanka(plaster polymer mesh with small cells), which is pressed into the solution.

Laying serpyanka

6. Instead of metal beacons, you can use plumb lines. In this case, small wooden pads will serve as a guide for the rule.

Arrangement of “marks” using plumb lines

7. In order not to damage the drying solution, leveling is carried out round: first the plaster is applied to the first wall, then plaster is applied to the next wall, etc.

8. You can get a perfectly flat and smooth surface using finishing putty. It is applied in a thin layer (up to 1.5 mm), and after drying it is sanded with sandpaper. Finishing used to prepare walls for painting acrylic paints or a sticker of thin wallpaper. When facing ceramic tiles, plastic, cork, etc. such finishing is not required.

Leveling the wall with finishing plaster

Aligning corners

1. After leveling the first wall, a corner adjacent to it is laid plastic corner profile with or without reinforcing mesh attached to the sides. Its fastening is done using a solution, the excess of which is squeezed out with a spatula. The depth of immersion of the profile into the putty is checked building level. After the corner has dried, the profile is smoothed with a solution.

Corner profile with serpyanka

Checking the inside corner

2. External corners(slopes of walls and windows) are also leveled using profiles made of plastic or metal. They not only allow you to create perfectly even corners, but also protect it from damage when moving furniture or equipment.

Aligning outside corners

Installation of metal profiles

3. You can align the corners and corner spatula– a tool with a plate mounted on its handle, bent at an angle of 90. It can also be used to smooth out corners when installing profiles.

Angle spatula

Advice. If it is not possible to align the angle exactly at an angle of 90°, the spatula can be slightly straightened or bent.

Leveling walls with plasterboard

Finishing with this material is a less expensive method of leveling walls. For the work, you should purchase drywall itself, metal guide posts or wooden blocks for fastening it, hangers for attaching them to the wall and self-tapping screws. To save space, you can do without guides and attach the drywall directly to the wall.

1. To mount using metal racks on the wall, draw a straight horizontal line at a distance of 1 cm from the corner, along which screws are screwed with screws every 40-65 cm straight hangers.

Attaching a direct hanger

Fastening profiles

3. The distance between each of them should be equal width drywall. The edges of the sheets should be at the center of the profile. To strengthen the structure, it is better to install intermediate profiles between them.

Fastening profiles

4. Drywall is attached screws for metal in increments of 25 cm. Do not screw them in at the very corners of the sheet. To prevent them from breaking off, it is necessary to retreat 5 cm from the edge. The self-tapping screw should not protrude above the surface - it is deepened into the sheet by a couple of millimeters.

Fastening drywall exactly in the center of the profile

5. Walls are laid at internal and external corners corner profiles.

Installation of corner profiles

6. Joints between sheets, recesses from self-tapping screws and corner profiles are covered with a layer putties. If the wall is being prepared for painting or wallpapering, a plastic mesh – serpyanka.

Preparing the wall for painting

Important! Drywall is not able to withstand too much load, so when hanging structures that are too heavy (for example, a water heater) on the wall, you should use long metal pins.

Fastening drywall without guides

1. To secure drywall without the help of profiles, self-tapping screws are screwed into the wall (40-50 of them will be required for one sheet).

2. The depth of their screwing is determined using plumb line: a weight attached by a string to the ceiling.

3. A fairly thick layer is applied to each screw gypsum with polymer additives, onto which the drywall will be glued. The solution is applied so that it covers the screw by a couple of centimeters.

Fastening drywall without using a profile

4. To prevent the plasterboard from springing in places where the wall bends, it is better to place pieces there foam rubber.

5. To level the sheet horizontally, pads made from drywall scraps are placed under it.

Fastening drywall sheets without using profiles

6. Until the solution sets (35-40 minutes), the sheet will have to be held on the wall with your hands.

Important! With this method of fastening, there should be no horizontal joints, so for work you should take sheets equal to the height of the room.